For the guys who only have a cut-off tool... slice a groove across the face of the race 3/4s deep and hit it with a wide chisel. Will usually crack the race so you can slide it right off. Works great on Diff carrier bearings after the cage is removed. Be careful not to cut too deep
I just put the hub in a vise and use an air hammer and chisel between the race and hub. Gives me enough space to use a puller... Or more realistically continue using the air hammer to push it off. Takes like 3 minutes. Easy peazy
I really like the extra detail you put in your work. In this video for example cleaning the bearing surface before installing the new bearing. I'm suprised how many channels you find where they just press the new bearing in without cleaning the bearing surface. It drives me crazy when I see guys not cleaning a bearing surface, reusing cotter pins, not removing grease from brake pads, and other things. Nice work Eric !
Based upon this and a couple other reviews of the OTC 6575 kit, I ordered this kit and 4 bearing assemblies and DIY on my Altima. I managed to break the first forcing screw by omitting the necessary lube AND forgetting to remove the bearing snap ring. Got a 2nd forcing screw ($55) and applied lube liberally before utilizing it. The rear bearings were super easy while the front ones were nothing short of a pain in the buttocks. Now my personal conveyance drives much quieter than it has in a few months. Its difficult to tell when it began, The bearing noise gradually sneaks up on ya. Overall the OTC 6575 kit was a great investment in my ever growing collection of tools. Thanks Eric!
Hi Eric. I use a small cut wheel & grind side ways on the race. Once you get most of the way through just put a chisel in the cut & hit it with a hammer & she splits enough to slid off. Just another way to approach it. Love your videos. Watch them a lot. You are very good with electrical issues. Keep up the good work
We got a Grappler at our shop about a year ago. Very handy! Used to take the knuckle off and take it to the machine shop to press the bearings. Depending how busy they were, could have a car torn apart on the lift all day. Just did a Kia Sedona last week and it only took an hour or so. Of course, between phone calls. :)
when i have to get the race off, i take a grinder and make a diagonal cut in it, then take a chisel and a hammer to crack the cut and then you can usually walk walk it off the hub. neat little trick i learned at work. it is a huge time saver.
And i just wanted your large evap diag video on the pontiac torrent, and found it very helpful! Im in the market to get an autel scanner along with alot of astro tools after seeing your use of them, so a very big thank you from a fellow technician!
lol love this video. Been watching you for 7 years. After working for a dealer and city. I’m finally starting my business, because of you always saying if , I can do it you can do it, and I’m finally doing it 😢. Thank you. 🙏
Excellent video. It's real, not staged, full of typical things that we hacks run into all the time. You handled the challenges and irritations professionally. I like your creativity when met with a challenge. Work the problem people. Thanks
I just replaced my front left wheel bearing today. Had the same problem with part of the bearing being stuck on the hub spindle. Used an angle grinder to make a diagonal channel on the bearing, then used my air chisel on the channel to get it rotating and it moved slightly outwards. Changing chisels, I was able to get it off without damaging the spindle. Need to be very careful not to grind into the spindle. Was a very difficult job, factory bearing and hub from 2010, lots of corrosion due to Canadian winters and roadsalt. My first time doing a bearing replacement, and it was a success.
I always put the bearing in the freezer to ease installation whenever there is a interference fit. Dissimilar temperature sometimes will surprise you. Fork stem bearing on a motorcycle is the opposite, you would heat it up.
Eric O , You have really inspired me to work on my Subaru. It takes a little more time but I love the way you run through and simplify the diagnostic process. Keep up the great work on TH-cam. Again thanks EJones.
Hi Eric , you’re exactly right. We grind the heels off the legs to grab the reveal but we’ve also ground a g clamp to tighten against the legs so it won’t slip off 😊
You might have good hearing now, but believe me if you don't use hearing protection you will loose the ability to hear good. Please save your hearing because you won't ever get it back. Your young enough to save it, I'm not, but I use protection all the time now to save what I have left. I love your channel, good job.
Switch to electric tools, air tools are far too noisy. There are a ton of very good cordless that`ll do much of the work you need including impacts. Use air tools only when absolutely necessary, it has saved myself a lot of ear ringing.
My tip for those snap rings is to always plan on replacing it. Run around the old one with the torch will take the springy-ness out of it making it less of a missile. For one heavily rusted in the groove it will loosen it up there also. Tapping it with a punch while heating and cooling will loosen it up also. The stubborn ones may require a couple applications of fire but they always give up.
Hey Eric that snap ring landed in my garden...you want it shipped back?!
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Even with a thousand bucks worth of beautiful on-size pullers plus infinitely skilled seasoned hands, this is still a nightmare job. This one vid alone shows why shops charge for this, not enough probably if working from book time. Hats off to you, sir.
Safety tip: secure the part in a bench vice instead of holding it by hand!!! I learned the hard way 43 years ago when I almost severed my thumb!!! And I was holding the part with pliers.
Thanks Eric for your videos - especially on brake hardware. I just recently did front brakes last summer on my Honda CR-V and with your advice, also worked on the rear discs this past weekend. Wow, what a difference. It stops better, very little or no noise and lasts longer. The tip of using Permetex Purple Ceramic Brake Caliper Grease and cleaning and sanding off rust on contact points on the caliper, caliper bracket, and the backings of the brake pads. I now do my own brakes and not going to friends and shops due to the fact that they just throw the pads on and ship them out without doing the "detail" work that makes the brakes work better and last longer. Again, Many Thanks!!!!!
Another great video. I didn't think the Hub Grappler would be strong enough. I've always removed the knuckle and used a 20 ton Norco Shop Press. And there has been times I've seen that thing get stressed and struggle a bit.
I have been doing this for a living for over 30 years. I still learn from fellow mechanics. Your videos are very helpful. Never to old to learn. Good tips. Here is one for you. Use safety glasses. We all know someone who had a n eye injury because they did not use safety glasses. 🙏🙏.
Great tool. Be careful of the book. First time I used it, was doing a Escort Zx2. The manual said I should use the 311882 receiving cup and the 314305 adapter to force the bearing out. The 314305 was to large. It was on the body of the knuckle meaning it couldn’t press the bearing out . Needed to use a larger receiving cup and a smaller adapter.
I watch these guys on TH-cam and every bolt comes loose and some of them like last video I watched the guy even used an adjustable wrench with a torks bit in it for taking out tork screws and needle nose pliers for snap rings yet I use snap on tools and every bolt fights me and half strip or break lmao I guess it wasn't meant to be. I'm replacing the water pump on my pontiac vibe Thursday or Friday. Wish me luck
nice to see a proper mechanic, if that was taken to most garages in the UK they would have wanted a new hub and stub axle, there are not many mechanics left anymore only 'Fitters' ,well done
my girlfriend just said " I hear you're watching your online boyfriend again, I recognize the guys voice" she even quoted the "here's you're problem lady !" Lmao
Your video's are the best on the internet. I have a Harbor Freight bearing puller. First time using it, the bearing moved maybe a 1/4 inch and the threads pealed off the forcing screw. Harbor Freight sold me a new one at thier cost. Again, same thing the first time using it. Last week I did wheel bearings and I put the new bearing in the freezer for a while. They pressed it like butter. Thanks
Replace that threaded bolt with a piece of grade 8 threaded rod and nuts from www.mcmaster.com and you will not have to worry about it again, also use a thrust bearing instead of just washers. Never had a problem after that.
I have the same kit & it works great and I even bought the hydraulic ram kit which eliminates the possibility of jackscrew thread failure...there's nothing like hydraulic power. Hope your neck is temporary. I have degenerative disks in my neck concave instead of convex and sound like that bearing but I have been blessed over the years so you learn to live with a little pain & crunching noises. Shoulder surgeries are all healed up so good to go :D
Nice video of tool in use! When removing inner race with a small lip I never use a rattle gun to start it, most often just takes hammer energy and vibrates arms off. I tighten it, spray some good ole go quickly spray on shaft, go answer the persistent phone.When I get back it I usually can tighten more or a strike on the bolt head of the tool and it's away. Even with an acme thread have found rattle guns hammer action can bind threads whereas a smooth crank on it doesn't. But there is always the exception to every rule, but as you say, we have the solution!
I have to say, Among all of your talents the thing i believe I respect the most is you use tools as what they are "TOOLS" if they can't handle it they go away.... As with all your videos great job and thanks for sharing.
What kinda farmer are you if you don't know every vice grip trick in the book!? Come on Jay your letting me down here haha See you do need some IPA. It clears the mind!
LMAO, I never even owned a pair of C-clamp vice grips until a couple years ago. Now I do know a few regular vice grip tricks though ;) IPA clears minds eh? Not the ones I've tried :D
Nothing like starting your day with a new SMA video. It's better then a cup of joe. Now I have to get one but hey you could never have to many tools right? Another amazing video Eric.
I'd really like to see this job on a mkiv Jetta. That bearing race is impossible to get off without ruining the abs sensor ring. At least for me it is. I'd love to see a method for getting them off without ruining anything that matters. Great work, BTW!
I bought the Hub Grappler .. big bucks for a DIY shade tree guy .. worth the money . now I’m invincible haha .. was successful on first try on front ‘01 Odyssey .. just tape the snap ring to the hub so you don’t forget .. it goes on B4 you drive the hub in.
Clean out that snap ring groove with pick and wire brush and test fit the snap ring before you press the bearing in. Using a more easily controlled snap ring tool helps, like NAPA Part #: SER 2012.
I replaced a rear wheel bearing on my sister's 2008 AWD Fusion. The design is such that you have to remove the whole hub and knuckle assembly to get the axle shaft out of the hub. I think I spent more time fighting that stupid rusty snap ring than I did removing the knuckle. At least the front one will be easier when the time comes thanks to this video. Keep up the good work, Eric!
Cool way cutting notches to remove the race, BUT...Go low tech, I use my little dremel with its little 3/4 or 1 inch cut off wheel and cut the race at the hub, with the cut off wheel at slight angle to axle sleeve so I dont cut the hub, then when nearly thru just one bang with hammer and chisel it splits the race every time. I've done 3 that way and never has taken more than 3-5 mins to do so. Go low tech and listen to Navy Submariner who had to do this at sea using only my teeth!
One thing that I learned in the navy was that every Mechanic has THEIR own favorite way of doing what works for them. I had to learn 5 different ways of doing the same thing once. Then after I became the trainer later on. I tried to find out what the trainee was comfortable with, if possible, Then taught them the Navy Aviation Book way, the "Don't do that" way, & the reduce your repetitive motion way. At least one guy went on to Retire an E-8 after 26 years.
Hey there. Back about 35 years or so that pic you use to clean out the locking clip groove,was a cotter pin tool. But sure made a good pic. Keep up the good work.
Excellent procedure, my grandaughter has a Saturn Vue, wheel bearings are failing after I have replaced them both two time, just looking for an idea to put good Timken bearings in the old hubs. How to separate the spindle from the bearing. This bearing kit you use looks to be the ticket for the job. Thanks for all the great videos!
I bought a Lexus from an old lady in Los Angeles. Not a bit of corrosion. Got a one way $50 ticket to Vegas from Detroit. Planned on driving home in a 2003 Camry. Got a 2007 ES350 instead. Smooth ride.
We have had a hub shark for 20 years. It's just like the grappler. It's a pain in the ass, it wrecks backing plates. 90% of the time, we pull spindle and use press. Especially on rusty shit that might need a little heat. 15 minutes extra to align is well worth it!
After watching this and other videos I decided to try replacing the hubs on my daughter's 2004 Explorer. I was expecting a fight removing them. Once I removed the 3 bolts, the hubs practically fell out. You need to move down south, no rust to fight.
I do the same. Comes off quick with no special tools. Any press fit stuff on the wheels I take off with a cutoff wheel and chisel. Titan axle seals I've gotten down to 15 minutes a side from when the wheels come off the ground to when they hit the ground. Includes R&R axle bearing and spacer.
never thought/tried cutting slots in the race...another tool in the arsenal. If I can't catch the race, I'll cut about half it's thickness, height wise, then smack it with a chisel. That'll usually crack it and then you can pull it off with ease...even by hand. Sure you've done this...You're the doctor after all:) Great vid and thanks.
I'm wearing my safety glasses and my safety pants , ( leather front leggings on top of jeans ) and safety boots . You just can't be too safe this side of a video .
You might want try what we in aerospace use, Use your induction heater on the bearing race, it will expand and slide off due to different grain structure between bearing and spindle.
South Main Auto Repair Eric which 1/2"impact did you use once the nano couldn't handle it? It seemed like your air gun had plenty of torque. I've seen you use earthquake harbor freight cordless impacts but I'm trying to find a really good 1/2"air impact but on my cheap budget. Thank you sir if you see this and answer. And thank you as well for taking the time everyday to teach us!
For those of us that do not have a bearing puller and find that the outer bearing race is still stuck into the hub etc. Hopefully you will have a stick welder hidden in ur workshop! Weld around the inner circumfrance of the inner bearing race! The welding will force the race to shrink and you can gently tap it free from the hub! A tip from an old timer! Something I have never seen on u tube! Let me know if it works for you!
I get it but with all the extra fancy tools I feel like it’s taking way longer than it should, especially the race removal part but to each there own , you still got it done and the customer is probably happy 👍🏼
Leave it to ford to come up with a Toyota idea of putting bearings in. Ahh makes life easier. Remember on those snap rings, always keep the champhered side out.
At 9:00, I've done that a similar way. When you are trying to get the race off the hub, one thing I have done before is cut two notches opposite each other. Then use a bearing separator and press it off the hub. Those snap rings are always fun to get out, don't know how many snap ring pliers I have ruined getting them out. Hey, you almost shot our eye out when the snap ring went flying, lol.
I came back to watch this one again, after finding a video from a guy who made his own hydraulic bearing removal tool from a Harbor Freight hydraulic knockout punch. No rotational movement required, ha ha. Unlike most outside hydraulic bearing pullers, this one is shaped like a doughnut, it pulls a center threaded rod inside, dragging the bearing back into a cup like you do. Cool idea. Even so, I wish these pro level tools were less expensive.
Nice video! Big Nasty is never too big! I was pretty upset there was no sound effects for the lubes☹. What I do to save time is to cut a slit in the race with a small cutoff tool then use a mallet and chisel to break it away. Nice tool set up! I need that in my life. Thanks!
Lots of valuable info on you page. I've been doing it for a living for 28 years. Still find different ways od doing things. But I also have a few tricks up my sleeve. BTW just got a Pico scope. It's amazing. Found a problem on a audi in 15 min. Typical other shops replaced everything but the sink.
That hub grapler is a nice kit, i'm so jelous. I've done some DIY jobs with some stuff i borrowed from a machineshop and those terrible one use chinese kits on ebay. 😂
Great video!! .... Love the way you see things not going your way the first time, it's so normal to have all this happen, ... Most people cut the video so everything goes first time, in which it never does!! ... Thanks for sharing. Keep up the good work.
Eric 99 percent of the time i just score the race with the cut off wheel than strike the race with a sharp chisel. the super hardened race cracks like an egg. No heat required and no deep cuts into the hub.
That's a great tool to have at your shop especially with a rust bucket so you have to work with but what do you have rust buckets or not that's a damn good tool for removing all those pain in the ass bearings as usual Eric thank you for doing the videos over and out .
Good to see how you do it rust country. On the San Diego coast we get some salt rust, but nothing like that. Thanks for the information. I have a new way to attack rusted snap rings.
Pip Parker ?? Hub replacement?? Excessive Rust in CV axle spline area or spline wear?? Desire for an “easy” new set of wheel studs?? Hub face extremely rusted?? Beats me what he’s getting at. Did you figure anything out??
Use a bearing splitter! Its two pieced that clamp around bearing base and tighten two bolts to wedge the tight gap between the bearing and shaft. Works great for that job. Can get them from Harbor freight cheap but fairly good quality! And if you knock out the balls on the other bearing half and weld small short bead with welder on the race, it will shrink and slide out easy! Just small weld bead on the outer race only! Splitter works great on the hub side.
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For the guys who only have a cut-off tool... slice a groove across the face of the race 3/4s deep and hit it with a wide chisel. Will usually crack the race so you can slide it right off. Works great on Diff carrier bearings after the cage is removed. Be careful not to cut too deep
I just put the hub in a vise and use an air hammer and chisel between the race and hub. Gives me enough space to use a puller... Or more realistically continue using the air hammer to push it off. Takes like 3 minutes. Easy peazy
Make is a video
I really like the extra detail you put in your work. In this video for example cleaning the bearing surface before installing the new bearing. I'm suprised how many channels you find where they just press the new bearing in without cleaning the bearing surface. It drives me crazy when I see guys not cleaning a bearing surface, reusing cotter pins, not removing grease from brake pads, and other things.
Nice work Eric !
Thanks Ron
He's called a *PROFESSIONAL* for a reason.
Based upon this and a couple other reviews of the OTC 6575 kit, I ordered this kit and 4 bearing assemblies and DIY on my Altima. I managed to break the first forcing screw by omitting the necessary lube AND forgetting to remove the bearing snap ring. Got a 2nd forcing screw ($55) and applied lube liberally before utilizing it. The rear bearings were super easy while the front ones were nothing short of a pain in the buttocks. Now my personal conveyance drives much quieter than it has in a few months. Its difficult to tell when it began, The bearing noise gradually sneaks up on ya. Overall the OTC 6575 kit was a great investment in my ever growing collection of tools. Thanks Eric!
Hi Eric. I use a small cut wheel & grind side ways on the race. Once you get most of the way through just put a chisel in the cut & hit it with a hammer & she splits enough to slid off. Just another way to approach it. Love your videos. Watch them a lot. You are very good with electrical issues. Keep up the good work
Dremel?
Wiz wheel
@@Enonymouse_
cut off wheel.
Exactly what I do... Dremel EZLok abrasive disk, almost all the way through, sharp(ened) chisel, pow with the crack hammer... off
We got a Grappler at our shop about a year ago. Very handy! Used to take the knuckle off and take it to the machine shop to press the bearings. Depending how busy they were, could have a car torn apart on the lift all day. Just did a Kia Sedona last week and it only took an hour or so. Of course, between phone calls. :)
Ahhhh the PHONE!!
when i have to get the race off, i take a grinder and make a diagonal cut in it, then take a chisel and a hammer to crack the cut and then you can usually walk walk it off the hub. neat little trick i learned at work. it is a huge time saver.
And i just wanted your large evap diag video on the pontiac torrent, and found it very helpful! Im in the market to get an autel scanner along with alot of astro tools after seeing your use of them, so a very big thank you from a fellow technician!
Watched* not wanted. Silly autocorrect
i was taught the same thing at work. Grind a line across it and use a chisel to crack it.
lol love this video. Been watching you for 7 years. After working for a dealer and city. I’m finally starting my business, because of you always saying if , I can do it you can do it, and I’m finally doing it 😢. Thank you. 🙏
I always apply a little bit of white lithium grease on the outside of the bearing, and inside of the race before I install the bearing. 😊
Excellent video. It's real, not staged, full of typical things that we hacks run into all the time. You handled the challenges and irritations professionally. I like your creativity when met with a challenge. Work the problem people.
Thanks
I just replaced my front left wheel bearing today. Had the same problem with part of the bearing being stuck on the hub spindle. Used an angle grinder to make a diagonal channel on the bearing, then used my air chisel on the channel to get it rotating and it moved slightly outwards. Changing chisels, I was able to get it off without damaging the spindle.
Need to be very careful not to grind into the spindle.
Was a very difficult job, factory bearing and hub from 2010, lots of corrosion due to Canadian winters and roadsalt. My first time doing a bearing replacement, and it was a success.
So glad both my vehicles have hub assemblies, bolt off... bolt on... job done
Lot easier for sure!
Mine too. I'm not getting this, you still end up with the old hub. Pretty crappy design IMO.
I always put the bearing in the freezer to ease installation whenever there is a interference fit. Dissimilar temperature sometimes will surprise you. Fork stem bearing on a motorcycle is the opposite, you would heat it up.
Eric O , You have really inspired me to work on my Subaru. It takes a little more time but I love the way you run through and simplify the diagnostic process. Keep up the great work on TH-cam. Again thanks EJones.
Hi Eric , you’re exactly right. We grind the heels off the legs to grab the reveal but we’ve also ground a g clamp to tighten against the legs so it won’t slip off 😊
You might have good hearing now, but believe me if you don't use hearing protection you will loose the ability to hear good. Please save your hearing because you won't ever get it back. Your young enough to save it, I'm not, but I use protection all the time now to save what I have left. I love your channel, good job.
Seriously, he's not kidding. Hearing protection. Eye protection. Every time.
I'm mid 20s and I can tell when my power tools are too loud! 45db folks
With the guys who haven't worked a day in their lives please don't comment.
Switch to electric tools, air tools are far too noisy. There are a ton of very good cordless that`ll do much of the work you need including impacts. Use air tools only when absolutely necessary, it has saved myself a lot of ear ringing.
Doug Peterson Yeah I totally agree. Between growing up in a NRA family and discovering Dad’s air tools , my hearing is 💩💩💩
My tip for those snap rings is to always plan on replacing it. Run around the old one with the torch will take the springy-ness out of it making it less of a missile. For one heavily rusted in the groove it will loosen it up there also. Tapping it with a punch while heating and cooling will loosen it up also. The stubborn ones may require a couple applications of fire but they always give up.
Hey Eric that snap ring landed in my garden...you want it shipped back?!
Even with a thousand bucks worth of beautiful on-size pullers plus infinitely skilled seasoned hands, this is still a nightmare job.
This one vid alone shows why shops charge for this, not enough probably if working from book time.
Hats off to you, sir.
Safety tip: secure the part in a bench vice instead of holding it by hand!!! I learned the hard way 43 years ago when I almost severed my thumb!!! And I was holding the part with pliers.
Thanks Eric for your videos - especially on brake hardware. I just recently did front brakes last summer on my Honda CR-V and with your advice, also worked on the rear discs this past weekend. Wow, what a difference. It stops better, very little or no noise and lasts longer. The tip of using Permetex Purple Ceramic Brake Caliper Grease and cleaning and sanding off rust on contact points on the caliper, caliper bracket, and the backings of the brake pads. I now do my own brakes and not going to friends and shops due to the fact that they just throw the pads on and ship them out without doing the "detail" work that makes the brakes work better and last longer. Again, Many Thanks!!!!!
Another great video.
I didn't think the Hub Grappler would be strong enough. I've always removed the knuckle and used a 20 ton Norco Shop Press. And there has been times I've seen that thing get stressed and struggle a bit.
I have been doing this for a living for over 30 years. I still learn from fellow mechanics. Your videos are very helpful. Never to old to learn. Good tips.
Here is one for you. Use safety glasses. We all know someone who had a n eye injury because they did not use safety glasses. 🙏🙏.
Great tool. Be careful of the book. First time I used it, was doing a Escort Zx2. The manual said I should use the 311882 receiving cup and the 314305 adapter to force the bearing out. The 314305 was to large. It was on the body of the knuckle meaning it couldn’t press the bearing out . Needed to use a larger receiving cup and a smaller adapter.
Man, watching you use the proper tools and what-not almost makes me rethink the home-garage suspension work...
that's strange, when i do bearings there's lots more swearing and physical injury. You must be doing it wrong 😂 haha nice work
LMAO!!
And blood... LMAO
I watch these guys on TH-cam and every bolt comes loose and some of them like last video I watched the guy even used an adjustable wrench with a torks bit in it for taking out tork screws and needle nose pliers for snap rings yet I use snap on tools and every bolt fights me and half strip or break lmao I guess it wasn't meant to be. I'm replacing the water pump on my pontiac vibe Thursday or Friday. Wish me luck
🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍
Yea when pulling a wheel bearing I usually want to cause physical harm to someone while motherfucking the world.
nice to see a proper mechanic, if that was taken to most garages in the UK they would have wanted a new hub and stub axle, there are not many mechanics left anymore only 'Fitters' ,well done
my girlfriend just said " I hear you're watching your online boyfriend again, I recognize the guys voice"
she even quoted the "here's you're problem lady !" Lmao
'There's yer problem, lady', and my wife says it all the time
Ditto. My wife says the same thing.
It needs to be on the SMA apparel!
@@Syncopia Yeah. "Here's your problem lady" t-shirt. If would be worth it to have.
My wife says he sounds like Beetlejuice.
Your video's are the best on the internet. I have a Harbor Freight bearing puller. First time using it, the bearing moved maybe a 1/4 inch and the threads pealed off the forcing screw. Harbor Freight sold me a new one at thier cost. Again, same thing the first time using it. Last week I did wheel bearings and I put the new bearing in the freezer for a while. They pressed it like butter. Thanks
Oh man bummer about the HF kit. Makes you wonder how any one even uses them!?
Replace that threaded bolt with a piece of grade 8 threaded rod and nuts from www.mcmaster.com and you will not have to worry about it again, also use a thrust bearing instead of just washers. Never had a problem after that.
did you see my video I did on adding the bearing?
I used a knockoff pitman arm puller and it did the exact same thing. I had more metal shavings then progress
Yes I did, I did add a thrust bearing to both and I lubed them well.
I have the same kit & it works great and I even bought the hydraulic ram kit which eliminates the possibility of jackscrew thread failure...there's nothing like hydraulic power. Hope your neck is temporary. I have degenerative disks in my neck concave instead of convex and sound like that bearing but I have been blessed over the years so you learn to live with a little pain & crunching noises. Shoulder surgeries are all healed up so good to go :D
Maybe OTC could make you some replacement washers to shim in there ;)
South Main Auto Repair HaHa nobody is touching this neck.
Nice video of tool in use! When removing inner race with a small lip I never use a rattle gun to start it, most often just takes hammer energy and vibrates arms off. I tighten it, spray some good ole go quickly spray on shaft, go answer the persistent phone.When I get back it I usually can tighten more or a strike on the bolt head of the tool and it's away. Even with an acme thread have found rattle guns hammer action can bind threads whereas a smooth crank on it doesn't. But there is always the exception to every rule, but as you say, we have the solution!
you wouldnt like rust free automotive...you only need like... 6 tools.
I laughed a little too hard on this one
And you can never find the 10 mm socket!
I have thought about how nice it must be to be live in a place that doesn't use salt.
I have to say, Among all of your talents the thing i believe I respect the most is you use tools as what they are "TOOLS" if they can't handle it they go away.... As with all your videos great job and thanks for sharing.
If it is junk, I fling it... or modify it :D
Looks like a great tool! Great tip on using the vice grips to hold the puller. Never thought about do that before!
What kinda farmer are you if you don't know every vice grip trick in the book!? Come on Jay your letting me down here haha See you do need some IPA. It clears the mind!
LMAO, I never even owned a pair of C-clamp vice grips until a couple years ago. Now I do know a few regular vice grip tricks though ;) IPA clears minds eh? Not the ones I've tried :D
REAL MECHANICS GREAT STUFF SIR A LOT OF WORK INVOLVED FOR A SMALL BEARING PEOPLE DONT realise
Nothing like starting your day with a new SMA video. It's better then a cup of joe. Now I have to get one but hey you could never have to many tools right?
Another amazing video Eric.
That's right!
I love the way that you got that old o-ring moving. Nice touch! Thanks! Answering almost every comment, impressive contact with the "people" Mr. O.
Hey man you know how it is. Gotta keep "the people" happy :D
I'd really like to see this job on a mkiv Jetta. That bearing race is impossible to get off without ruining the abs sensor ring. At least for me it is. I'd love to see a method for getting them off without ruining anything that matters. Great work, BTW!
Facts!💯 Did one this week both front and stubborn as shit..
I bought the Hub Grappler .. big bucks for a DIY shade tree guy .. worth the money . now I’m invincible haha .. was successful on first try on front ‘01 Odyssey .. just tape the snap ring to the hub so you don’t forget .. it goes on B4 you drive the hub in.
That snap ring almost hit me in the eye.
Gotta duck!
South Main Auto Repair safety squints were engaged
@@SouthMainAuto Not the first reaction on the list when your neck is not 100% (lol). Over here, we vered right rather fast.
Clean out that snap ring groove with pick and wire brush and test fit the snap ring before you press the bearing in. Using a more easily controlled snap ring tool helps, like NAPA Part #: SER 2012.
Oh yeah, finally some rusty wheel bearing work with air tools!!! That's what I subscribe for.
Haha hey Tom, yeah I try to throw in some nuts and bolt videos in between the other stuff :)
I replaced a rear wheel bearing on my sister's 2008 AWD Fusion. The design is such that you have to remove the whole hub and knuckle assembly to get the axle shaft out of the hub. I think I spent more time fighting that stupid rusty snap ring than I did removing the knuckle. At least the front one will be easier when the time comes thanks to this video. Keep up the good work, Eric!
Cool way cutting notches to remove the race, BUT...Go low tech, I use my little dremel with its little 3/4 or 1 inch cut off wheel and cut the race at the hub, with the cut off wheel at slight angle to axle sleeve so I dont cut the hub, then when nearly thru just one bang with hammer and chisel it splits the race every time. I've done 3 that way and never has taken more than 3-5 mins to do so.
Go low tech and listen to Navy Submariner who had to do this at sea using only my teeth!
Also how I've always done it
One thing that I learned in the navy was that every Mechanic has THEIR own favorite way of doing what works for them. I had to learn 5 different ways of doing the same thing once.
Then after I became the trainer later on. I tried to find out what the trainee was comfortable with, if possible, Then taught them the Navy Aviation Book way, the "Don't do that" way, & the reduce your repetitive motion way.
At least one guy went on to Retire an E-8 after 26 years.
I do a similar process only after I use an air hammer with a dull chisel to knock it off. It is much faster.
Hey there. Back about 35 years or so that pic you use to clean out the locking clip groove,was a cotter pin tool. But sure made a good pic. Keep up the good work.
Excellent procedure, my grandaughter has a Saturn Vue, wheel bearings are failing after I have replaced them both two time, just looking for an idea to put good Timken bearings in the old hubs. How to separate the spindle from the bearing. This bearing kit you use looks to be the ticket for the job. Thanks for all the great videos!
Thank you alot, I just purchased a 2008 Jeep compass, bushings, back wheel bearing needs replacing so watching you it cost me less by doing diy
use a split bearing puller on the bearing race works good.
I bought a Lexus from an old lady in Los Angeles. Not a bit of corrosion. Got a one way $50 ticket to Vegas from Detroit. Planned on driving home in a 2003 Camry. Got a 2007 ES350 instead. Smooth ride.
Every time that I have to use my air hammer at work now, I'm always like "Big Nasty for the win!"
Ok, besides my bitching about Ford’s weirdo front suspension, this was another example of a great contribution from Eric O., thank you.
Neat trick with the cutting wheel. I would have been heading for the torch.
I just ordered my kit tonight. I always used the old shop press but that looks so much easier and quicker
17:43 I am going to start wearing safety glasses watching your videos. Sheesh.
We have had a hub shark for 20 years. It's just like the grappler. It's a pain in the ass, it wrecks backing plates. 90% of the time, we pull spindle and use press. Especially on rusty shit that might need a little heat. 15 minutes extra to align is well worth it!
gear oil on the threads and on the "bearing". works like a charm.
After watching this and other videos I decided to try replacing the hubs on my daughter's 2004 Explorer. I was expecting a fight removing them. Once I removed the 3 bolts, the hubs practically fell out. You need to move down south, no rust to fight.
Normally i just cut the race of with a cut off Wheel and use a chiesel with a rag over the race and smack it so it breaks and it can be slit of easy
Good tip with the rag over it first :D
I only cut a small groove into one side of the race then hit it with the air hammer, takes 2 mins or less.
I do the same. Comes off quick with no special tools. Any press fit stuff on the wheels I take off with a cutoff wheel and chisel. Titan axle seals I've gotten down to 15 minutes a side from when the wheels come off the ground to when they hit the ground. Includes R&R axle bearing and spacer.
never thought/tried cutting slots in the race...another tool in the arsenal. If I can't catch the race, I'll cut about half it's thickness, height wise, then smack it with a chisel. That'll usually crack it and then you can pull it off with ease...even by hand. Sure you've done this...You're the doctor after all:)
Great vid and thanks.
I flinched when the snap ring flew out. I'll wear my safety glasses next video.
I'm wearing my safety glasses and my safety pants , ( leather front leggings on top of jeans ) and safety boots .
You just can't be too safe this side of a video .
I know your feeling. As someone who compulsively shoulder-checks at every opportunity on the road, the commute to school has been painful.
You might want try what we in aerospace use, Use your induction heater on the bearing race, it will expand and slide off due to different grain structure between bearing and spindle.
Yes sir I have done just that in several occasions and it works fantastic!
South Main Auto Repair love to see that one day
South Main Auto Repair Eric which 1/2"impact did you use once the nano couldn't handle it? It seemed like your air gun had plenty of torque. I've seen you use earthquake harbor freight cordless impacts but I'm trying to find a really good 1/2"air impact but on my cheap budget. Thank you sir if you see this and answer. And thank you as well for taking the time everyday to teach us!
@@BuggysTowJam ingersoll is always the best bet for impact wrenches
Right tools for the job is so true.let the tools do the work. Hang in there brother
Thanks for these videos, Eric.
For those of us that do not have a bearing puller and find that the outer bearing race is still stuck into the hub etc.
Hopefully you will have a stick welder hidden in ur workshop!
Weld around the inner circumfrance of the inner bearing race!
The welding will force the race to shrink and you can gently tap it free from the hub!
A tip from an old timer!
Something I have never seen on u tube!
Let me know if it works for you!
Even the pick has a hammering side!
All tools have a hammer side!
I bought that tool almost 2 years ago, it's pricey but it saves time in the long run.
that was swell !
Thanks for the inspiration
Keep on trucking (from France) !
Thanks!
Idda used a grinder wheel and tried to cut a notch in the race. But I’ve split those with grinder wheels then used a chisel to bust it on the split
Lmfao the second after I hit enter you do that lol
Nice job, but I felt something was missing.... On an unrelated note, I have an unexplained urge to go to my garage and spray Brakleen on something.
Haha get some!
I get it but with all the extra fancy tools I feel like it’s taking way longer than it should, especially the race removal part but to each there own , you still got it done and the customer is probably happy 👍🏼
You monster, robbing us of brake cleaner in a video :P
:( I repent I repent!
I use a Bearing Separator for those inner bearing races that get stuck on the hub spindles.
Perfect tool for the job.
Leave it to ford to come up with a Toyota idea of putting bearings in. Ahh makes life easier. Remember on those snap rings, always keep the champhered side out.
flat side out fool...
Great tool .. I bought one (big bucks for a DIYer) .. was successful with my very first wheel bearing job.
cool good to hear!
thanks man i just bought this grappler , perfect video
At 9:00, I've done that a similar way. When you are trying to get the race off the hub, one thing I have done before is cut two notches opposite each other. Then use a bearing separator and press it off the hub. Those snap rings are always fun to get out, don't know how many snap ring pliers I have ruined getting them out. Hey, you almost shot our eye out when the snap ring went flying, lol.
Haha good thing we all had our safety squints on!
Just close one eye!
*@**15:20* Mr. O's tool is so big and powerful- that his balls are hitting the floor.
I own that tool myself. Works much better than the original hub tamer. Makes life easier when doing bearings on that German junk
I see one improvement to make to the grappler, replace those set screws with thumb screws.
I was thinking of putting some wing bolts in there actually! Good call.
Then take a soldering iron to the box so it will fit and the lid will shut
I'd prefer Allen Head Fasteners.
I came back to watch this one again, after finding a video from a guy who made his own hydraulic bearing removal tool from a Harbor Freight hydraulic knockout punch. No rotational movement required, ha ha. Unlike most outside hydraulic bearing pullers, this one is shaped like a doughnut, it pulls a center threaded rod inside, dragging the bearing back into a cup like you do. Cool idea. Even so, I wish these pro level tools were less expensive.
Love the grappler.... lol 'there's the phone again!'
Hah true story!
As a home gamer I wish something like this could be rented. Love you work Eric!
Safety Sally says, "Put your safety glasses on your FACE not your hat when installing a snap ring !"
ohhhhh....
Nice video! Big Nasty is never too big! I was pretty upset there was no sound effects for the lubes☹. What I do to save time is to cut a slit in the race with a small cutoff tool then use a mallet and chisel to break it away. Nice tool set up! I need that in my life. Thanks!
Great video! However I usually change the hub as well, due to parts store warranty's in my area.
Lots of valuable info on you page. I've been doing it for a living for 28 years. Still find different ways od doing things. But I also have a few tricks up my sleeve. BTW just got a Pico scope. It's amazing. Found a problem on a audi in 15 min. Typical other shops replaced everything but the sink.
Big nasty needs its own intro sound effect
Hmmm have to think of a good one!
It does in the newer videos
The right tools make all the difference in the world. Thanks for the video.
That hub grapler is a nice kit, i'm so jelous. I've done some DIY jobs with some stuff i borrowed from a machineshop and those terrible one use chinese kits on ebay. 😂
Finger danger close to cutoff wheel Will Robinson!
Suddenly I had dentist flashbacks!
Great video!! .... Love the way you see things not going your way the first time, it's so normal to have all this happen, ... Most people cut the video so everything goes first time, in which it never does!! ... Thanks for sharing. Keep up the good work.
"That's for our headphone users" Thanks!
Haha YW!
Jason Steih In Dolby Surround in theaters near you!
Eric 99 percent of the time i just score the race with the cut off wheel than strike the race with a sharp chisel. the super hardened race cracks like an egg. No heat required and no deep cuts into the hub.
Sorry haven't watched all vid but why not just a cut off wheel across the bearing inner race & crack it with a chisel to get it off the hub ?
Oh you could have for sure but this way here we are sure not to grove the spindle
and his way he gets to use all those thousands of dollars worth of specialty tools that will sit in tool box 360 days out of each year
Cause he just got the fuckin hub grappler karin
That's a great tool to have at your shop especially with a rust bucket so you have to work with but what do you have rust buckets or not that's a damn good tool for removing all those pain in the ass bearings as usual Eric thank you for doing the videos over and out .
'For our head-phone users.'
..... thanks.
Haha YW!
Good to see how you do it rust country. On the San Diego coast we get some salt rust, but nothing like that. Thanks for the information. I have a new way to attack rusted snap rings.
If that was my car, I would want the Hub replaced, for obvious reasons...
Help us mere mortals by telling us why
Pip Parker ?? Hub replacement?? Excessive Rust in CV axle spline area or spline wear?? Desire for an “easy” new set of wheel studs?? Hub face extremely rusted?? Beats me what he’s getting at. Did you figure anything out??
Use a bearing splitter! Its two pieced that clamp around bearing base and tighten two bolts to wedge the tight gap between the bearing and shaft. Works great for that job.
Can get them from Harbor freight cheap but fairly good quality!
And if you knock out the balls on the other bearing half and weld small short bead with welder on the race, it will shrink and slide out easy! Just small weld bead on the outer race only! Splitter works great on the hub side.