Thanks Steve!!! I'm a 64 year old lady and followed your every step replacing the bearings and spider shaft in my LG washer. So easy, you didn't miss a step and I now have a VERY quiet washer!
My LG washer hit the 10 year mark and then started sounding like a plane taking off in my mud room. I called a repair guy and he said, “It’s $168 for me to pass through your door to diagnose the issue. The parts and time to repair make it worthless. Go buy a new one.” So…I went to the website and ordered the parts he said I needed - $150. It was a very easy fix, but it took time (video was 30 min) but spot on instructions. The only negative…he doesn’t give any suggestion on how to get the rubber bellow back on! The spring loaded wire ring was the hardest part of the repair. This site has saved me lots of $. Thank you!!
If you haven’t seen, another video (replacing the drain pump, which requires approx same level of disassembly) suggests using a zip tie to close the spring. Then once in place, cut the zip tie. Super helpful hint!
There's a way to do it without anything more than a screwdriver. See another TH-cam video on the same subject. But basically you get the spring in position on the left, go around with the wire as far as you can go around the top and with a pair of pliers or even a small screwdriver can work - expand the spring on the right and it can snap into place. If your spring is corroded this will be very difficult. I used a small Irwin wood clamp modified to be an expander.
Thanks so much for this video! We'd been ignoring the bearing noise for a while until one day I washed a load and opened the door to have a cloud of smoke escape. The bearings were in worse shape than those in rusted and neglected WW2 motorcycles I've restored in the past, with bearing shells broken and all. With this video I was able to replace the bearings and get everything back into working order. So satisfying to do this on my own - thanks again!
Great instructions Steve. I’m an average home handyman and it took me 5 hours. I took apart the spider and pressure washed it and the drum. Mine was completely caked in crap so that added an hour. I also watched the video as I did the job. It was well worth the 5 hours as it probably saved me a few hundred dollars and I got the satisfaction of doing it right, by myself.
Fix your own washer Steve said, it’ll be fun Steve said. Well yippee ki yay. Job took me 5 hours, so all you have to do is basically strip the whole thing down 😅. This video is awesome thank you!
Dude…. One of the best video’s I’ve seen. Clear, crisp, no extraneous BS and no stupid background music. I’ve subscribed to you channel and I’m starting this repair as soon as the parts arrive.
Just replaced the bearings and spider on my LG WM3001HPA that I have had for over 13 years. It's working great again. Thank you Steve for your great tutorials!
I have LG Front Loader WM2240CW for 12 years and it just started shaking or having some smoke (burning smell) only at the last 2 mins of wash in spin cycle. I am pretty sure its bearing but could be also spinner (spider) support will not know until i open. Wondering if i should repair or just buy new one. @shawnbrown1325 How easy was it to replace the bearing?
I've had my LG washer/dryer set for about 14 years now. Over the last few months, the noise during the spin cycle was getting worse & worse. I knew it was time to replace the bearings, or look at buying a new unit. Luckily after a quick TH-cam search, I came across this amazing video from Steve that said I could do it myself, and I must say Thank You Sir! After ordering my parts, I studied your video multiple times, bit by bit. I consider myself a decent DIY guy, with mechanical/repair type experience. I did my prep, followed along step by step, and 5 hours later was back up and running my first load (smooth as butter by the way.) This included a thorough cleaning of all parts along the way, and careful inspection of my spider and inner tub. I had read below that you left the part out about replacing the front door panel, so I had already done my homework there to. Yes it's a difficult job, and I can see why some may find it very hard & time consuming. But regardless of your mechanical ability, this video from Steve is on point. Every screw, every clamp, wiring harness, etc. was exactly where Steve said it would be. Don't be afraid to try it yourself, i'm sure glad I did. For less than $30 bucks in parts (both bearings, seal, and o-ring) and 5 hours (may be more for some) of your time, sure as heck beats paying for a service call and repair! Thanks again Steve, I personally appreciate it!
According to many of the reviews I have seen, the cheap bearing kits like you installed have not lasted very long. If you don't want to replace them again soon consider buying the real LG bearings (they cost around $100 with the seal). Steve probably assumes that everyone knows about the lifespan of cheap bearings in such an important location, he should talk about this IMO.
@@davepennington3573 Very true to an extent. But when you consider that Carter Temro makes ALL the block heaters in the automotive world and then they get boxed for specific manufacturers, the bearings here will probably last as long as the original if the machine is not over loaded.
Mission accomplished! Only one smashed thumb and a broken screwdriver later. Two important notes: 1. If your washer is on the older side getting the drum out of the housing and removing the bearings may require a lot of force. Like, a sledge hammer (literally). 2. The importance of making sure the bearings are FULLY seated cannot be overstated. If they are not your spinning drum will rub on the housing. Thank you for a great video!
Big thank you to Steve for putting this video together. The spin cycle on my LG washing machine got so loud I could hear it outside. I swear I thought it was about to start sending shrapnel through the house, so I needed to finally tackle this job and this video showed me how. After replacing these bearings, it’s nice and quiet again. If you’ve decided to “go for it” as well (beats spending a fortune on a new machine), here are some additional suggestions: 1 - An easy way to remove the retaining ring that is attached to the door boot gasket is to use a small bar clamp (like one of those Irwin’s they sell at Lowe’s) with a zip tie on each end. Reverse one side of the bar clamp, loop the zip ties through each end of the spring on the retaining ring and each and of the bar clamp, and keep pulling the trigger until the spring stretches far enough to remove the ring. Use the same procedure to re-install it. Literally took a couple minutes tops. 2 - Order and replace the spider. If the bearings failed, it’s possible that the shaft of the spider also has been damaged and this could lead to premature failure of the new bearings. Also, the amount of crud this thing had built up on it through normal use was beyond belief. 3 - Order and replace the rubber gasket that is installed between the two halves of the plastic tub. Not worth taking a chance re-installing the old one and having it leak on you. 4 - Look up another video on youtube that shows you how to remove the heating element from the tub. Mine came loose and initially it was not obvious how to get it back in properly (so it doesn’t leak), but once you see the procedure it’s no big deal / will take a couple of minutes. It will be easier to work with the tub / clean it with the heating element out of the way. 5 - Getting the old bearings out successfully is the biggest question mark with this job. Mine were badly rusted and initially stuck in there pretty good. The outer bearing did come out reasonably quick tapping around the edges, but the inner bearing didn’t budge. If this happens to you, you might want to try what I did. I got the biggest socket I had (36 mm with a half inch drive), dropped it in the hole behind it, put an extension in it, gave the extension 6 or 7 good whacks with a heavy hammer and out it came! YES! 6 - Thoroughly clean both halves of the plastic tub and the drum with a pressure washer. If you haven’t taken off the old spider already, do that first. The amount of gunk from soap scum mixed with lubricant and rust from the failed bearings will be all over the place no matter how often you’ve cleaned the machine if you’ve been using it for many years. Pressure wash everything, but be careful with the door boot gasket as you don’t want to tear it up. If the door boot gasket is in poor shape you are better off ordering and replacing that too since you already will have the machine disassembled. 7 - When you are installing the new bearings, put a thin piece of cloth on them, place the old bearing on top of the cloth, and use the old bearing as a hammering surface. 8 - If you haven’t changed the water supply hoses in over 5 years, pick up a pair and have those handy as well when you re-install the machine. 9 - Avoid attempting to do this job in a tight space. Move it somewhere you can comfortably work on it from all sides. Was the job “easy?” Yes and no. It’s not a quickie, but if you order the right parts, and have the tools and the space to work on this, it’s definitely doable in a few hours. Good luck!
I am ordering the replacement bearing... do I need to order 1 or 2? The part number listed is for "bearing" (singular) but is that a kit of the front and the rear bearing?
Great how to video! Yes, it’s a bit more trouble when your seals failed, so your bearings are corroded. Takes a bigger hammer! One issue: the front panel with the door magically appears! I really struggled with getting the band clamp back on to reattach the bellows. My solution: It helped when I fully installed the bellows into the sheet metal groove first, AND THEN tried to install the band clamp! After installing it by hand for about 3/4 of the way around, I held onto the spring of the band clamp and drove the remaining part into the groove with a flat blade screwdriver. Hope that helps!
Took me about 5.5 hrs to complete. Once I got it apart, I discovered my spider was broken, so I replaced that as well. I also replaced bearing seal and and outer tub seal. Be aware that the video skips several of the steps on reassembly. I recommend bagging the fasteners as you take them out and labeling where you took them from and the time on the video. Many fasteners look similar and it will make it easier on reassembly.
Same for me, I had to replace the outer wash tub and spider. Changes the shocks while I was in there. I put the screws into the holes they came out of during disassembly and it made it easier. I also noticed steps of reassembly were missing but not too much of an issue. Great video. Much easier than it would seem from just watching the video.
How did you remove the shaft? The problem I have is the shaft is frozen to the bearing collar on both the outer and inner bearing collar. I was able to knock the bearing balls out of the outer bearing since there was easier access to it. But, it is the inner bearing I have difficulty with now. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. FYI, I have soaked the shaft in penetrating oil for several days to no avail. I don't want to keep bashing the shaft to the point I ruin it or crack the plastic tub shell. HELP! Thanks.
12 Year old Kenmore Elite (LG manufacture) was making a horrendous noise. Pre-ordered bearing set and new axel. I guessed correctly, the axel had cracked all three arms and the bearings were severely rusted. This video was basically perfect! Took my computer down to the laundry room and watched it step by step while I almost completely stripped down the washer, removed the broken axel and bearings, cleaned the drum and then re-assembled it. My washer runs like new - quiet and no wobble. It did take me about 4 or 5 hours but it is just a lot of parts and the video makes it mentally effortless, because he is doing the same work on my exact same washer. Thank you so much!
Thanks Steve. I decided to replace the bearings and subsequently found the spider to be completely corroded and about to break apart in two places. Thanks to your thoroughly instructive videos I was able to replace the spider, bearings, seal and outer drum gasket. I live in a rural part of Ontario, 1 1/2 hours from two major cities. Service people are reluctant to venture this far from home. With your help I saved a great deal of money whilst putting my LG washer back into operation.
I found the two bearings and two seals on line for $20. It fixed my problem. Thank you. It was worth the time to save several hundred dollars. You did skip a few parts when reassembling the front. The bellow spring was kind of tricky.
Hey Steve - thanks so much for this video! I paid $100 for the two bearings and seals. Did it all myself for over $250 cheaper than I was getting quoted for this job. PLUS - there's no way the repair person would have cleaned my absolutely disgusting tub housing and tub. I took those things into the shower and scrubbed them like crazy. Would have been better to take one of the halves to the self service car wash but it was getting too late. Now I feel like I can fix anything! Thanks a whole bunch!
This video completely demystified the repair on this washer. No special tools or skills needed. The trick is to use a small fishing tackle box for all the parts and go one compartment at a time for disassembly and reassembly. The bearings, seals and a couple hours of my time are way less expensive than buying a new washer when the bearings are noisy.
This is without a doubt a fantastic step by step tutorial that saved my washer and my bank account. For that I am thankful. My situation started as a bearing replacement but after exposing the basket and a corroded spider arm, required the arm to be replaced as well. After going thru the process I would like to share a few 'realities' that some may face like myself. 1)shaft removal from the bearing; Unlike the success from of the "tap tap" performed in the video this took phenomenal force (and time). Im 6'5" and 260lb and workout 6x a week and for 4 hours I cycled thru smashing it, spraying wd-40 letting it sit for 15min, then repeat. I must emphasize EXTREME FORCE. Eventually it took a brick coming down with all my might for it to finally slide out. So for anyone who doesn't have success with a few bangs prepare yourself, it may take a can of wd-40, time and force. 2)bearing removal. This also took about half a can of wd-40 and just as much force as the shaft removal did. After finally makeshifting a punch it also took about 3 hours and repeated (extreme) force and oil, but they did finally pop out. In summery, follow the instructions and you cant go wrong. Just prepare for patience and a good workout, because it will eventually come.
Thank you so much for this video. I never would have attempted this without this detailed video. I ordered the bearings and gasket before I started only to discover that the spider was actually the issue once I disassembled the washer. Separating the shaft from the bearings was the hardest part. I recommend using a flat piece of metal instead of a block of wood. After breaking the block of wood I tried the metal and it separated after a few good whacks with a hammer. Also make sure you do this on a hard surface not carpet. Another reminder is to tap the outermost edge of the bearings when removing them. This is said in the video, but I had to listen a few times to figure out why the bearings would not come out. Once I tapped the outer edge it came out relatively easy. Thanks again for the awesome video.
This is an extremely well done tutorial with literally no waisted time or dialog. I feel like I'm buddies with old Steve now having done successful surgery on my LG washing machine. In my case it turned out to be a broken spider arm not bad bearings. I went ahead and replaced the bearings anyway for good measure. Running like a new machine now. $130 + Saturday >>> $2K for new matching set. Thanks for this video.
Excellent video. Washer is 15 years old! Froze the new bearings in the freezer and I think that helped a lot. Like others here, had a heck of a time getting the shaft out of the old bearings. Had to really hit it hard directly with a 4 lb hand sledge. Glad I didn't break the spider, which also needed serious cleaning. Figured I was buying a new washer if it didn't work. Also used a wire wheel on a drill to clean up the shaft and bearing holes. That worked very well. Washer is quiet again and I hope to get a few more years out of it.
Ive been repairing things since I was knee high to a grasshopper (back then, it was more like destroying, but I always wanted to see how things worked) Now Im repairing and worked on many machines but this one is fairly simple but has a lot of steps. Using this video, I believe someone who has never done anything like this should be able to complete the task. With every build I do, I write down step by step so I can reverse it when putting it back together. Now, once I have done it a few times, I pretty much do it by memory. This was just a well-done video. I was thinking my bearings were bad, but it turns out the spider had 3 broken legs, and how it lasted this long is amazing. Buying new spider and a bearing kit as well as a door gasket. It's gonna be just like new again. Plus, it was pretty fun.
Thank you so much for this video! I just finished taking mine apart replacing the bearing and putting it back together. I couldn't have done it as easily without your video.
Shaft should have a thin coating of lithium grease before sliding into bearings. Also, it's important to fill the inside of the seal with lithium grease to extend the life of the seal which keeps water out. Before installing bearings, clean out the weep hole in the tub near bearings. This hole is designed to drain any water that may get past the seal. Great video overall!
Son in law and I paid $80 for the bearings and seal. All done and washer works like new!! Thank you so much. I never go to anyone else for any appliance repair but you! Thanks again. Mike
Just tackled this over the weekend, with the help of my wife! Wow, what an adventure. Did it smooth and methodical. Took us 5 hours. This included a thorough clean. I even took the Drum and the tub to the car wash for a power clean. Bearings were a bit tricky. Decided to replace rather than get a new tub. It worked. Don't think I would recommend this as a first time experience replacing bearings. I did the shocks as well, glad I did, made a huge difference. This video was essential!
Great video, I just completed everything in under 5 hours, took pictures of what type of screws goes where and it saved me from a couple of misses. Thank you !
Thanks Steve! It took me about 8 hours to replace the two bearings and clean everything but the washer now runs perfectly. Unfortunately, separating the shaft and bearings was much more challenging than in your example. It took force, heat and a lot of cursing to get the shaft separated and the old bearings removed. The rest of the video was exactly as described. As others have said, you missed reinstallation of the door, but we found your other video that discusses that process. Right now, The whole country is under quarantine from the CoronaVirus and we’re in the epicenter in NYC. We didn’t want to have a delivery man come into our home, risking the virus. Thank you so much for your excellent guidance!
It was a bear to remove me inner drum from the rear outer drum as well. Ruined my biggest dead blow hammer. New spider went in to new bearings nicely though.
Agreed! Taking the old bearings out instantly rounded over the ends of my punches. Which are probably not hardened, definitely bought only to remove hinge pins, for which they are fine. Had to regrind them a dozen times while getting the bearings out. Also gouged the bearing holding surface a bit in the process, but that cleaned up fine with a dremel. Putting in the new ones with a punch as shown seems like a bad idea. I got the first one 1/3 in and then slipped and punched through the bearing's seal. Oops. Quickly ordered a new bearing and an installation tool. Using the bearing installation tool the new ones went in cleanly with very little work. Rather than freeze the bearings, I hit the tub with a heat gun for 10 minutes first, so it was warm to the touch (the bearings were room temperature, which due to another simultaneous problem at my house is 55 degrees F).
I wish more videos were done as well as this. Extremely clear, complete and easy to follow. Just watching gave me the confidence to take this on. I have a list of tools, the bearing kit and my best friend to help me with the project. Will have the laptop up and running to follow along. Small baggies for loose parts and camera ready. My household repair mechanic whom we have used over many years told me some time back that if this machine needed work on it he wouldn't do it. Now I understand why. The labor cost will put you deep into a new machine. Like Tangie noted, my repairman also said to buy a new washer. I've had the LG Tromm's for 10 years. Impressive machines, heavy use with very few issues. Seems like such a waste not to do the repair. The service guys are being honest with us on buying a new machine. But if you have the tools, patience and time ... do the repair yourself. I'll post how the repair went. Thanks again for the excellent video.
Okay, done! Machine runs like it did when it was new, so quiet again. Here's what I learned. Watch the video several times to be very familiar with the process. Steve did an exceptional job making it. Take your time, document what you're doing (taking pictures helps to look back on things like heater element connections). The baggie thing worked great keeping the screws organized. I used a marker to write on the bag the order, number and where they went. While Steve didn't seem to have much problem taking things apart, I did run into a few issues. Knocking out those bearings was not easy. A run to Home Depot to get a long steel post with a hand protection plate really helped ... $12. If you don't have a lot of room in your laundry room, be prepared to move the washer forward and backward to get at all the connections. I also found that my hot water solenoid was going out so replaced that as well $14. Get some clear silicon instead of soap for all the hose and seal connections. Extensions for your socket and nut driver helps to get at the hard to reach places. Have everything within reach, once you are on the laying on the ground reaching all those difficult spots, it's no fun hopping up for the Phillips head that's sitting on top of the dryer : ) The hardest part of this job is replacing the keeper ring on the tub gasket. If you are patient, this video will give you the confidence to do this job. All in, this was an under $70 out of pocket job. Took about 5 hours but I took my time. Having a good friend help you is a HUGE plus. Keep your washer clean. Most people know to dry out the tub gasket after use (get down in the groves with a cloth). At the bottom of the gasket (on mine) are small holes that allow the water to drain out. These can get clogged with gunk so clean them out. What I found alarming was the amount of build up on the drum housing. Soap deposits. Thick and sticky. I'm assuming everyone will find the same thing (especially if you have a teenager using your washer). So I'm going to be following some of the how to maintenance cleaning to get those deposits out on a regular basis. Good luck to all. Keep those machines running, out of the landfill and money in your pocket!!! Oh yeah, enjoy a beer with your friend that helped out. Job well done.
I remembered a few other things. If you can, keep your washer door open to air and dry it out. Keeps it from developing mildew, especially if you're not using it on a daily basis. This is important. When you have the rear drum half ready to knock out the bearings, get a 5 gallon bucket (about $4 if you don't have one). Set the drum on that. Here's why; the rim of the bucket will be supporting the drum in a weight distributed fashion on the base of the drum ... not on the edges. Same thing when you flip it over to get the other bearing out. If you really need to hammer hard like I did to get the bearing out you could damage the outside rim. Some WD-40 sprayed on the old bearings helps. Here's another tip. If you have never replaced the heater core, this might be a good time to consider doing it. It's a $50 part. But if your machine is around 10 years old or has had a lot of use, why not do it now while you have everything apart. I had replaced mine almost exactly 1 year ago because it failed.
My washing machine started to make the screeching sound whenever the tub turned. The tub was also meeting a lot of resistance. I decided to give this a shot. I purchased brand new bearings and a seal for about $50. I started the project at 7:30am and ended around 4ish. Most of the time was spent 'unscrewing/screwing' to dismantle and reassemble. The only other challenge I had was taking off the old bearing (and that was because it had a lot of rust on it). Once I was able to get it off, it was a breeze! Probably took me about 30 minutes or so just to hammer mine out of the tub. Sure enough, it was old and the seal had been broken which allowed water to get into the bearings. My washing machine it now brand new. It's so quiet, you can't even tell that is washing clothes anymore. Saved me hundreds of dollars! Thanks!!!!! If you have any questions, feel free to message me.
It took me about 10 hours altogether, but my bearing were REALLY in bad shape and I easily spend 3 hours getting the bearings out of the rear housing. I spend another hour cleaning the outer tub with a power washer. I would recommend this video. I think it covered all the information and I am not an incredibly "handy" guy.
Thank you for the video! Couple of refining comments for those stuck bearings and more: - use a proper brass drift to knock the bearings out as it is softer then steel and watch out to avoid damaging the walls of the bearings' housing. Do hit the outer bearing rings. Using a bearing puller is the best though. - knock the bearings back in by placing the old bearing on top to avoid damage from the hammer. - the top sensor (or light) on the rubber collar is sometimes zip-tie attached. It is possible to disconnect it instead of pulling it out from the rubber boot.
Thanks so much for this video. Although it looked daunting at first, once you get going it was easier than I thought it would be. I struggled a little bit trying to get the bearings out, but thankfully they weren't rusted etc. I also used your other video to replace the drain pump at the same time. As a female, I really appreciate that these videos exist for those of us that like to challenge ourselves to repair our own appliances. It saved me a ton of money and I will likely get another 10 years out of this machine. Thanks again :)
Just finished this, worked like a charm. My advice: 1. Use bags and label them. Keep the bags with the parts. 2. Take pictures of anything during the disassembly that doesn’t match the video so you can confidently put it back. Some washers have slight variations in their brackets and whatnot. 3.Just reverse the directions for the door disassembly to reassemble it. 4. Plan to let WD40 or similar sit around the bearing for an hour, or overnight. It took a lot of force to get it out without damaging the housing. It's doable, but without the lubrication it wouldn't have come out. Mine was totally warped and that probably didn’t help. 5. It's seriously not as hard as it seems. Removing the bearing itself was the most time-consuming part. Do this repair when you first start hearing the noise. Don't wait three months like I did, it will make it much harder. The parts are not expensive or hard to get.
He makes look so easy. Probably his 50th one. Masterfully done sir. I agree with the labeling of the screws and I’d probably just buy a new one 13 years is a good run! I’m about to replace my pump. A 5 minute job by comparison. Thanks.
Amazing instructions. My washer is older (WM0532HW) and slightly different because it has the top mounted controls. 90% of the instructions matched my machine. The key differences was the top control panel and the detergent tray. Taking things apart was scary but putting them back together was faster because you know what's next. I pride myself it completing jobs with no errors but I had two failures. First I forgot to connect the wire harness for the door. Then I had a major leak because I didn't connect the detergent tray to the inlet for the tub. These were easy fixes. My washer is about 20 years old so I expect to get at least 5 more years after this repair.
This is a great video and is well done thank you I have replaced many other items on my machine , this bearing job isn’t too hard .. but as we got to the part of bearing replacement we realized that buying a new LG at this point would probably be better than spending more time and money fixing this old machine. The bearing shaft was so corroded I soaked it for 2hours before it would come apart.. just decided a new one would be a better choice.. our machine was a2009 so 12 years old is good enough.. Thank you for all the videos they have got us through a lot of smaller repairs
Evidently You are a service instructor. Very Easy to understand. Listen to you and , venture out into a a new trade.. It's not overwhelming, if you keep track of your screws and ALL parts. As a tradesman by nature, "I got this". Thank You For Your instructional video, and detail.
Next time install the new bearing by place the old bearing on top of the new and gentle hammer it in, never hit a bearing on the side you can easily damage it.
Just changed my LG front loader bearings and seal. I could NOT have done it without your help. Your instructions were clear and concise, your videography and editing excellent. Thank you sir.
Great video, except you skipped showing how to put the front door panel back on, also I ended up with two extra screws when I finished my work. I received an estimate of $1700 to fix my machine, which included $700 for labor. I fixed mine myself for just under $300 in parts and of course my own labor. I could not have done it without your video!!!! Thank you from the USA to my Canadian neighbors!
Good video. Thanks. Saw some comments below. I’m not a repair guy. But because of this video, I honestly got this done in well under 4 hours. More like 3 hours. That was with the shaft being seized in the bearings, hammering it out, smoothing out the shaft and bearing carrier, and then reshaping the spline so that it will all go back together. Oh, I had the kids clean everything...there was some mud and grime.
Great video. I was not sure to be able to do this fix but the step by step made it easy. I was happy to find out that I only had to change the spider arm and not the bearings. As mentioned earlier how to put the front panel is missing but had read somewhere that the metallic band clamp can be relatively easily put back after putting the gasket in the grove and use 2 small rope attached on each side of the spring to pull it, Needs 4 hands though. Thank for this video that saved me to buy a new washer.
Thank you. Simply put, I could not have completed this job without this video. Probably should add replacing the spider since it will almost certainly be shot in most repairs of bearings. Again, awesome video and perfect comments, used about every one of them most likely.
The bearing kit (two bearings, seal and tub gasket) cost $25. It took me a total of 5 hours, including time to clean the gunk out of the tub housing and baffle. Great Video. THX
Steve, thank you so much! The step-by-step video was exactly what I needed. Amazing attention to details. I especially appreciate how you showed how to reassemble. Most how-to videos will stop after disassembly and just tell you to reverse the instructions to reassemble. I was able to revive my family washer for what I would have paid in sales tax alone for a new machine! The biggest challenge I had was separating the inner basket from the outer tub. The bearings were really seized onto the spider. It took some hard swings with a 4 lb sledge plus some torch heat, but she finally broke loose.
Jeff, starting this project this weekend, LG wanted to charge me 600 for repair. Where there any issues with bolts being Stuck with loctite? Specifically the spider arm?
Steve...you are THE MAN! I followed your video step by step and all I can say is THANK YOU! Perfect, explicit & detailed! Couldn’t have done it without you!
It wasn’t easy, it wasn’t quick. With this video I was able to pull the repair off and avoid the whole skeevy, wormy, BS “planned obsolescence” scam the makers of these machines are getting away with. Thank you sir!!!
This machine was mechanically built as well as any consumer product can be.....extremely reliable, long lasting, and darn capable...had mine for 20 years so far, and even the electronic controls still work, which are the least reliable part of ANY modern pushbutton appliance....and just try to find a new part for those!
Beware! Beware! Beware! For reference: older near retirement homeowner with modest repair skills. Washer model WM2688HNM purchased 2007. Washer began making lots of noise then smoking. Watched several videos, including this one, and decided it must be the bearings and decided to try to fix it. Could afford a new washer but irked me to spend that kind of money and throw a large object in the dump when all it needed was a $35 part. Ordered the parts including a new spider arm (based on how degraded some were on these videos). Well.... Let me say here that this is a superb video and I would have had 0 chance of fixing the washer without it. However ... this ended up being MAGNITUDES more difficult than I expected. Much of this is probably my fault for not intervening sooner or having better preventive maintenance. 1. I had issues just getting the top off; it was stuck and I had to put loops of wire through some screw holes on the back and pull like crazy to get it loose. And that was just step 1! 2. My control board had a screw in addition to clips and I didn't see it and broke the screw holder off; don't think it really affected anything. 3. I took the front and back clamp off the boot; the front was moderately difficult even with the special spring spreading tool I bought (can't even imagine doing it without the tool); the back clamp was near impossible to put back on and the tool didn't really work for it. Tried the zip tie trick mentioned elsewhere and it didn't really work well either. I was able to give the boot a good cleaning so I guess that was a plus. Moral: don't take the back boot clamp off unless you really need to and get the tool. 4.The bearings were completely shot and the inner ring of one was essentially fused to the spider shaft. Had to pound for almost an hour with rust buster to get them out of the tub. The new ones were slightly difficult to insert but a little dish soap and put them in the freezer for a bit seemed to help. 5. Didn't know the spider arms bolts were permanently attached with red locktite. Only 1 came out normally, the others were obviously stripping the plastic bolt holders. There are a few videos on this that I wish I had watched sooner. Not sure any of them really work well. One suggests drilling a hole thru the spider arm and tub to get to a screw to release the inner plastic paddle in the tub. Did this but did not help. Turns out my model had 2 screws. Finally bought an angle grinder, watched some videos to keep from maiming myself and ground the heads of the bolts off. Still had to use a heat gun to get the remaining bolt parts out of the nuts to be able to reuse the inner plastic paddles; melted a little of the plastic and had to epoxy the loosened nuts back in their sockets. Had to order new bolts which seemed to work fine. I was terrified inserting them fearing one wouldn't seat correctly and I'd have to grind the head off again (this would ruin the spider arm by the way). Moral: replacing the spider arm, at least on this model, is monumentally difficult. 6. My model had the steamer box. Even with loosening it, one of the hoses below it was incredibly difficult to put back on and fix the clamp. 7. Forgot to put the check valves back in before attaching 2 of the hoses; had to redo the attaching. Ultimately got the thing put back together and it seems to be working; have done multiple loads of laundry. So, my takeaway: This was the hardest home repair job I have ever done, BY FAR. I probably spent 25+ hours on this when accounting for the difficulty, having to watch multiple videos, and having to learn how to use an angle grinder safely (this was a plus for skill building). I'm sure some of the issue was me (I've never repaired a major appliance before) and letting washer go too long before repair. I'm glad I did it, but just BEWARE that this could be WAY more difficult than expected depending on your model and condition of your washer. Good luck.
Great video. Just a minor suggestion in the order of disassembly of the counterweights. You should remove the top one first and then the bottom counterweight. Then you won't have to push down on the tub assembly to get to the top bolts.
Absolutely fantastic video! A few more close-ups of "this screw right here" would have been better but really helped me save a ton of money! Yes, the bearings were stuck to the shaft and took some serious banging with a DEAD BLOW hammer and off it came. Skipping the installation of the front door panel threw me off a but, but I got over it. Great help and fantastic video!
As many have said... great video. I have confidence in tackling this job soon. HOWEVER he skips the pain in the butt part of stretching that spring retainer over the bellows. They make a tool for that but i think other videos show some tricks because i dont want to spend more on special pliers for one time job
Steve, I consider myself pretty competent at fixing allot of different mechanical and electrical machines. With that said, I would like to say you are no doubt exceptional at both your explanation and videography of this somewhat daunting repair. I wish you were my neighbor, uncle or friend (no creepiness intended). You are awesome!!!!
Great instructional video. Spot on for tub removal and bearing replacement. Thank you so much! Only suggestion, unless I just missed it, is please show tub boot reinstallation with that wire spring thing. Holy begeezus ... that was a bear!
Excellent Video - Thanks so Much!! Got the same model for FREE, and it just needed some new bearings. The Drum Shaft was stuck, so I did what someone else had done by putting in the Shaft Bolt and hitting the head with a steel spacer & hammer. Then I degreased the motor parts and cleaned thoroughly (had shot bearing gunk all over them) then reassembled. Now the washer purrrs - thanks again.
Awesome vid. Ty! Lots of different bolts, recommend threading them back into the pieces as you take them off. Won’t have to figure out what went wear. Another tip use your vid recorder to record what ground went where and connectors etc..
Great video. It was very helpful. The only thing that I would suggest differently is when installing the new bearings, use the old one to hit the new one in place if you have to use a hammer. Hitting the new bearings directly with a hammer has often caused me to damage the new one if it fights me going in.
thank you so much for this informative video.... it took me about 5 hours total.... much longer taking it apart than putting it back together....Thank you again... I'm so glad I got to save my washer!!
Thanks for the video. It saved me from buying a new washer. Taking out the bearings was the hardest part but I managed to get it out. One thing I have to mention is that video skipped a couple of steps where the main front panel and spring ring goes on.. Other than that, great video. Thanks
Great help! Replaced both bearings today and your tutorial was spot on! Took me six hours, but I spent an hour cleaning all the soap scum from everything; I've had it since 2006. Thanks!
I just attempted this, when I put the tub around the drum (19:45)… my drum doesn’t free spin. Which it should right? I’m guessing my seal isn’t down far enough. It seems flush with the plastic. Any thoughts?
@@tannerholcomb4383 There really isn't anything that would stop it. Maybe one of the the bearings is a bit cocked? I had to replace the shaft as well, as it destroyed the seal. If there's any rust on the shaft, replace it and the seal. And double check the bearings are seated correctly.
@@PretzelPup I racked my brain, went back and pushed it down out of semi anger lol and just like that it seated lower into the correct spot… Im starting to realize why people just buy new washers. Not necessarily that complex of an ordeal but time consuming for sure. I had help getting the old bearings out and the new in from someone that had tools and I’ll tell ya that task without legit tools is hard/impossible
Good job, excellent video. I've replaced an old Maytag Neptune bearings and it was very difficult. This looks quite easy. Most difficult part is replacing the bearings themselves, ensuring they drive in straight. I used the old bearings as a drift for the new ones, outer edge only of course
You just made me save at least 200$ . the bearing kit cost 40$,.. much cheaper than calling the repairman. Thanks a lot. very well done and easy to copy.
I am glad I found your video tutorial especially on how to replace the bearing without breaking the housing. I have the same problem with my LG washing machine. Just waiting for the parts to arrive.. Great tutorial!
This video was perfect. I have a 2011 LG WM2140CW that sounded like we were washing hammers. I was at just over 3 hours total work time. 1 hour on teardown, 1 on cleaning parts, and 1 hour on reassembly. I didn't have the steambox or a lot of the sensors, so it was quicker than the model shown. I was at about $120 in parts of Amazon. Bearing kit came with bearings and casing gasket for $30, and around $90 for the new spindel. Some notes I have on my experience... 1) If you are going this deep to change bearings, for Pete's sake, get a new spider shaft spindel. Mine had a worn groove about 1mm deep around the base were the bearing failed. Not changing this would not stop the noise no matter how many times you changed the bearings. You're wasting money on bearings if not replacing the spider shaft. 2) When you're placing the spindel through the new bearings, you really need to make sure to get the spindel in completely. I took a scrap piece of wood, drilled 7/8" hole in it, fitted it over the shaft, then slowly tightened the nut in, drawing the spindel up through the bearings until the shaft was completely seated. 3) Be sure to clean out the short curved hose that leads from the bottom of the bellows to the bottom of the tub casing. Mine was packed full of lint. Explains why it hasn't been draining that great recently. 4) Take this opportunity to replace your external hoses. They are not really rated for 10+ years. I went with braided. Thanks again for this video. Couldn't have done it without you.
This video helped a lot. Mine was not nearly as easy to do as his was but we got it done. Saved a lot of dough over buying a new washer. Runs like new now.
Thank you for the video! Your step by step was perfect with the exception of you editing out the install of the front door. I figure that’s how I ended up with an extra screw... The wife and I did it and we have the first wash going through now nice and quiet!
Awesome video. Done in 5 hours. Waited 6 weeks for parts. Very explanatory. Had no problems except for cleaning under the washer when i moved it. Thats were those Legos, socks, and change went....thank you again.
Video extremely helpful! Much appreciated! I took pictures every step of the way. Painter's tape attached fasteners to things removed. Detergent on the hose fittings worked nice especially on the underside hose connection. I did notice the front door panel installation omitted but that's where the pictures I took came handy. Again thanks!
I fixed mine which is an LG but a different model, but it's essentially the same steps, you can do it in 5-6hrs or like I did, one day 3hrs and the next one 2hrs, you save a lot of money (bearings cost $25-$40), vs a repair man that can cost you $250+. Plus you learn the different components of a washer machine which is knowledgeable and useful in case the neighbor's washer machine goes off and you feel like making $200👨🏻🔧 🤝🏻🤣 Overall great tutorial video!!👍🏻
Good job, you make it look easy. Surely a light smear of grease or oil should be applied to the shaft before putting the basket back into the tub? Also maybe a smear of detergent on the tub gasket as a minor lube to help it take correct position? I'm a machinery kinda guy.
Please be aware not shown on video..my washer was a little bit older and the mud i had to take off the spider took me a least an hour...take your time and clean parts when putting it back together ..might as well since its all blown apart..cleaning will take longer than replacing bearings...but it was well worth it. Washer runs like new and you can buy kit on amazon or ebay 25 bucks , it includes bearings, bearing seal, and tub seal...saved me 850 bucks . Thank you and god bless.
You saved us getting a new washing machine! Great instructions...my husband gives you 2 thumbs up! Thank you for taking the time to post this...much appreciated!
Second time I've done this. Great video. I found the reason my bearing fail is water migrating thru the shaft seal and rust the bearings. This time I packed grease between the shaft seal and big bearing in hopes of keeping all water out of bearings. Bought NTN bearings as well rather than using bearings from Amazon kit. Big job but doable. Thanks for a well explained video!
I just attempted this, when I put the tub around the drum (19:45)… my drum doesn’t free spin. Which it should right? I’m guessing my seal isn’t down far enough. It seems flush with the plastic. Any thoughts?
Im guessing your water heater element did not fit under the stainless safety bracket. I had to fidgit with it for awhile before it went in correctly. But that element might be why the drum does not spin. Either that or the bearings went in a little wonky in the onner tub? Hope this helps
A much bigger job than anything I’ve tackled. This video is a great guide! Just about got the tub out and will be doing the bearings tomorrow! Hopefully it all goes back together or it’s a new machine!
I had a bearing groan noise this week. Once I had it apart I found the spider shaft had excessive wear on the shaft from the bearing. It had a lip edge where I could see the shaft was smaller. I replaced the spider, the bearings, and the shocks since the unit was 14 years old. Worn out shocks can put stress on the bearing with the drum hopping around. I realized this looking back and remembering the noise of the drum jumping around loud during the spin cycle. It never made any kind of noise in the early years. It's been a great washer. I had to wash everything because of build up slime on the drum, housing, seal. 3 hours good as new
If you're stuck taking the drum/basket out of the inner tub (around 13:00), your seal and bearings likely failed and will need to be replaced, hence why you're here in the first place. A lot of people have extreme difficulty getting the basket out by hitting the spindle, and this video makes it sound like a breeze. Mine was really lodged on there, my framing hammer and mallet were useless. I picked up a 45oz Dead Blow Hammer on a recommendation. After another soak in penetrative fluid, hitting a block of wood over the spindle got it right out with ease.
Maybe I'm chicken to hit it hard enough (with my dead blow) ??? Stuck tight. Tried icing the shaft (shrink) but no luck. Maybe let fluid overnight? Guess I don't really have much of an option right now anyway. Thoughts?
Thank you for an excellent video....made the job very easy and only cost $95 with both bearings, tub seal, bearing seal, and 2 day shipping. Greatly appreciate your effort in making these videos.
Worked like a charm!!!! This video was very helpful. Had to beat the spider out of the bearing, which required purchase of a new one. Other than that, smooth sailing! Thanks again!
This video was great, and perfectly matched my experience tearing down my LG washer. You instilled confidence in your calm demeanor...I could do this, I thought, he makes it seem like it's no big deal so I'll try! Thanks so much for posting such a thorough video!
This video is excellent and with it I was able to complete this job. The bearings that came out of this one were terrible and now it is good to go once again. Thank you and well done.
Thanks Steve!!! I'm a 64 year old lady and followed your every step replacing the bearings and spider shaft in my LG washer. So easy, you didn't miss a step and I now have a VERY quiet washer!
Is this Steve’s wife
He did miss a step. He didn't show putting the front door and bellows back on. It was just basically back together!
@me if your toilet ever clogs
My LG washer hit the 10 year mark and then started sounding like a plane taking off in my mud room. I called a repair guy and he said, “It’s $168 for me to pass through your door to diagnose the issue. The parts and time to repair make it worthless. Go buy a new one.” So…I went to the website and ordered the parts he said I needed - $150. It was a very easy fix, but it took time (video was 30 min) but spot on instructions. The only negative…he doesn’t give any suggestion on how to get the rubber bellow back on! The spring loaded wire ring was the hardest part of the repair. This site has saved me lots of $. Thank you!!
How did you get it back on
If you haven’t seen, another video (replacing the drain pump, which requires approx same level of disassembly) suggests using a zip tie to close the spring. Then once in place, cut the zip tie. Super helpful hint!
There's a way to do it without anything more than a screwdriver. See another TH-cam video on the same subject. But basically you get the spring in position on the left, go around with the wire as far as you can go around the top and with a pair of pliers or even a small screwdriver can work - expand the spring on the right and it can snap into place. If your spring is corroded this will be very difficult. I used a small Irwin wood clamp modified to be an expander.
Thanks so much for this video! We'd been ignoring the bearing noise for a while until one day I washed a load and opened the door to have a cloud of smoke escape. The bearings were in worse shape than those in rusted and neglected WW2 motorcycles I've restored in the past, with bearing shells broken and all. With this video I was able to replace the bearings and get everything back into working order. So satisfying to do this on my own - thanks again!
Great instructions Steve. I’m an average home handyman and it took me 5 hours. I took apart the spider and pressure washed it and the drum. Mine was completely caked in crap so that added an hour. I also watched the video as I did the job. It was well worth the 5 hours as it probably saved me a few hundred dollars and I got the satisfaction of doing it right, by myself.
Fix your own washer Steve said, it’ll be fun Steve said. Well yippee ki yay. Job took me 5 hours, so all you have to do is basically strip the whole thing down 😅. This video is awesome thank you!
Dude…. One of the best video’s I’ve seen. Clear, crisp, no extraneous BS and no stupid background music. I’ve subscribed to you channel and I’m starting this repair as soon as the parts arrive.
Just replaced the bearings and spider on my LG WM3001HPA that I have had for over 13 years. It's working great again. Thank you Steve for your great tutorials!
I have LG Front Loader WM2240CW for 12 years and it just started shaking or having some smoke (burning smell) only at the last 2 mins of wash in spin cycle. I am pretty sure its bearing but could be also spinner (spider) support will not know until i open. Wondering if i should repair or just buy new one.
@shawnbrown1325 How easy was it to replace the bearing?
I've had my LG washer/dryer set for about 14 years now. Over the last few months, the noise during the spin cycle was getting worse & worse. I knew it was time to replace the bearings, or look at buying a new unit. Luckily after a quick TH-cam search, I came across this amazing video from Steve that said I could do it myself, and I must say Thank You Sir! After ordering my parts, I studied your video multiple times, bit by bit. I consider myself a decent DIY guy, with mechanical/repair type experience. I did my prep, followed along step by step, and 5 hours later was back up and running my first load (smooth as butter by the way.) This included a thorough cleaning of all parts along the way, and careful inspection of my spider and inner tub. I had read below that you left the part out about replacing the front door panel, so I had already done my homework there to. Yes it's a difficult job, and I can see why some may find it very hard & time consuming. But regardless of your mechanical ability, this video from Steve is on point. Every screw, every clamp, wiring harness, etc. was exactly where Steve said it would be. Don't be afraid to try it yourself, i'm sure glad I did. For less than $30 bucks in parts (both bearings, seal, and o-ring) and 5 hours (may be more for some) of your time, sure as heck beats paying for a service call and repair! Thanks again Steve, I personally appreciate it!
Hi Jeff. When you say noise in spin cycle was it always at the same time/speed? was it a banging noise or a load drown?
According to many of the reviews I have seen, the cheap bearing kits like you installed have not lasted very long. If you don't want to replace them again soon consider buying the real LG bearings (they cost around $100 with the seal). Steve probably assumes that everyone knows about the lifespan of cheap bearings in such an important location, he should talk about this IMO.
@@davepennington3573 Very true to an extent. But when you consider that Carter Temro makes ALL the block heaters in the automotive world and then they get boxed for specific manufacturers, the bearings here will probably last as long as the original if the machine is not over loaded.
Mission accomplished! Only one smashed thumb and a broken screwdriver later. Two important notes:
1. If your washer is on the older side getting the drum out of the housing and removing the bearings may require a lot of force. Like, a sledge hammer (literally).
2. The importance of making sure the bearings are FULLY seated cannot be overstated. If they are not your spinning drum will rub on the housing.
Thank you for a great video!
Big thank you to Steve for putting this video together. The spin cycle on my LG washing machine got so loud I could hear it outside. I swear I thought it was about to start sending shrapnel through the house, so I needed to finally tackle this job and this video showed me how. After replacing these bearings, it’s nice and quiet again. If you’ve decided to “go for it” as well (beats spending a fortune on a new machine), here are some additional suggestions:
1 - An easy way to remove the retaining ring that is attached to the door boot gasket is to use a small bar clamp (like one of those Irwin’s they sell at Lowe’s) with a zip tie on each end. Reverse one side of the bar clamp, loop the zip ties through each end of the spring on the retaining ring and each and of the bar clamp, and keep pulling the trigger until the spring stretches far enough to remove the ring. Use the same procedure to re-install it. Literally took a couple minutes tops.
2 - Order and replace the spider. If the bearings failed, it’s possible that the shaft of the spider also has been damaged and this could lead to premature failure of the new bearings. Also, the amount of crud this thing had built up on it through normal use was beyond belief.
3 - Order and replace the rubber gasket that is installed between the two halves of the plastic tub. Not worth taking a chance re-installing the old one and having it leak on you.
4 - Look up another video on youtube that shows you how to remove the heating element from the tub. Mine came loose and initially it was not obvious how to get it back in properly (so it doesn’t leak), but once you see the procedure it’s no big deal / will take a couple of minutes. It will be easier to work with the tub / clean it with the heating element out of the way.
5 - Getting the old bearings out successfully is the biggest question mark with this job. Mine were badly rusted and initially stuck in there pretty good. The outer bearing did come out reasonably quick tapping around the edges, but the inner bearing didn’t budge. If this happens to you, you might want to try what I did. I got the biggest socket I had (36 mm with a half inch drive), dropped it in the hole behind it, put an extension in it, gave the extension 6 or 7 good whacks with a heavy hammer and out it came! YES!
6 - Thoroughly clean both halves of the plastic tub and the drum with a pressure washer. If you haven’t taken off the old spider already, do that first. The amount of gunk from soap scum mixed with lubricant and rust from the failed bearings will be all over the place no matter how often you’ve cleaned the machine if you’ve been using it for many years. Pressure wash everything, but be careful with the door boot gasket as you don’t want to tear it up. If the door boot gasket is in poor shape you are better off ordering and replacing that too since you already will have the machine disassembled.
7 - When you are installing the new bearings, put a thin piece of cloth on them, place the old bearing on top of the cloth, and use the old bearing as a hammering surface.
8 - If you haven’t changed the water supply hoses in over 5 years, pick up a pair and have those handy as well when you re-install the machine.
9 - Avoid attempting to do this job in a tight space. Move it somewhere you can comfortably work on it from all sides.
Was the job “easy?” Yes and no. It’s not a quickie, but if you order the right parts, and have the tools and the space to work on this, it’s definitely doable in a few hours. Good luck!
Cool thanks, I'm definitely tackling this.
I am ordering the replacement bearing... do I need to order 1 or 2? The part number listed is for "bearing" (singular) but is that a kit of the front and the rear bearing?
Great how to video! Yes, it’s a bit more trouble when your seals failed, so your bearings are corroded. Takes a bigger hammer! One issue: the front panel with the door magically appears! I really struggled with getting the band clamp back on to reattach the bellows. My solution: It helped when I fully installed the bellows into the sheet metal groove first, AND THEN tried to install the band clamp! After installing it by hand for about 3/4 of the way around, I held onto the spring of the band clamp and drove the remaining part into the groove with a flat blade screwdriver. Hope that helps!
Took me about 5.5 hrs to complete. Once I got it apart, I discovered my spider was broken, so I replaced that as well. I also replaced bearing seal and and outer tub seal. Be aware that the video skips several of the steps on reassembly. I recommend bagging the fasteners as you take them out and labeling where you took them from and the time on the video. Many fasteners look similar and it will make it easier on reassembly.
6 hours to save 600$....ill take that...since i dont make 100$ an hour. WIN
Same for me, I had to replace the outer wash tub and spider. Changes the shocks while I was in there. I put the screws into the holes they came out of during disassembly and it made it easier. I also noticed steps of reassembly were missing but not too much of an issue. Great video. Much easier than it would seem from just watching the video.
@@HombreFotographia what skze were the bearings. Or the numbers on the bearings.
How did you remove the shaft? The problem I have is the shaft is frozen to the bearing collar on both the outer and inner bearing collar. I was able to knock the bearing balls out of the outer bearing since there was easier access to it. But, it is the inner bearing I have difficulty with now. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. FYI, I have soaked the shaft in penetrating oil for several days to no avail. I don't want to keep bashing the shaft to the point I ruin it or crack the plastic tub shell. HELP! Thanks.
@@ericsycip3636so, did you remove the inner bearing ?
12 Year old Kenmore Elite (LG manufacture) was making a horrendous noise. Pre-ordered bearing set and new axel. I guessed correctly, the axel had cracked all three arms and the bearings were severely rusted. This video was basically perfect! Took my computer down to the laundry room and watched it step by step while I almost completely stripped down the washer, removed the broken axel and bearings, cleaned the drum and then re-assembled it. My washer runs like new - quiet and no wobble. It did take me about 4 or 5 hours but it is just a lot of parts and the video makes it mentally effortless, because he is doing the same work on my exact same washer. Thank you so much!
Thanks Steve. I decided to replace the bearings and subsequently found the spider to be completely corroded and about to break apart in two places. Thanks to your thoroughly
instructive videos I was able to replace the spider, bearings, seal and outer drum gasket.
I live in a rural part of Ontario, 1 1/2 hours from two major cities. Service people are reluctant to venture this far from home. With your help I saved a great deal of money whilst putting my LG washer back into operation.
Same here.
I found the two bearings and two seals on line for $20. It fixed my problem. Thank you. It was worth the time to save several hundred dollars. You did skip a few parts when reassembling the front. The bellow spring was kind of tricky.
where did you find them? Have a link?
Hey Steve - thanks so much for this video! I paid $100 for the two bearings and seals. Did it all myself for over $250 cheaper than I was getting quoted for this job. PLUS - there's no way the repair person would have cleaned my absolutely disgusting tub housing and tub. I took those things into the shower and scrubbed them like crazy. Would have been better to take one of the halves to the self service car wash but it was getting too late.
Now I feel like I can fix anything! Thanks a whole bunch!
I paid $20 bucks for the 2 bearings and and tub gasket
This video completely demystified the repair on this washer. No special tools or skills needed. The trick is to use a small fishing tackle box for all the parts and go one compartment at a time for disassembly and reassembly. The bearings, seals and a couple hours of my time are way less expensive than buying a new washer when the bearings are noisy.
This is without a doubt a fantastic step by step tutorial that saved my washer and my bank account. For that I am thankful. My situation started as a bearing replacement but after exposing the basket and a corroded spider arm, required the arm to be replaced as well.
After going thru the process I would like to share a few 'realities' that some may face like myself.
1)shaft removal from the bearing; Unlike the success from of the "tap tap" performed in the video this took phenomenal force (and time). Im 6'5" and 260lb and workout 6x a week and for 4 hours I cycled thru smashing it, spraying wd-40 letting it sit for 15min, then repeat. I must emphasize EXTREME FORCE. Eventually it took a brick coming down with all my might for it to finally slide out. So for anyone who doesn't have success with a few bangs prepare yourself, it may take a can of wd-40, time and force.
2)bearing removal. This also took about half a can of wd-40 and just as much force as the shaft removal did. After finally makeshifting a punch it also took about 3 hours and repeated (extreme) force and oil, but they did finally pop out.
In summery, follow the instructions and you cant go wrong. Just prepare for patience and a good workout, because it will eventually come.
What a legend, explains things so easily and takes you through the tedious steps usually not included in instructions like these.
Thank you so much for this video. I never would have attempted this without this detailed video. I ordered the bearings and gasket before I started only to discover that the spider was actually the issue once I disassembled the washer. Separating the shaft from the bearings was the hardest part. I recommend using a flat piece of metal instead of a block of wood. After breaking the block of wood I tried the metal and it separated after a few good whacks with a hammer. Also make sure you do this on a hard surface not carpet. Another reminder is to tap the outermost edge of the bearings when removing them. This is said in the video, but I had to listen a few times to figure out why the bearings would not come out. Once I tapped the outer edge it came out relatively easy. Thanks again for the awesome video.
This is an extremely well done tutorial with literally no waisted time or dialog. I feel like I'm buddies with old Steve now having done successful surgery on my LG washing machine. In my case it turned out to be a broken spider arm not bad bearings. I went ahead and replaced the bearings anyway for good measure. Running like a new machine now. $130 + Saturday >>> $2K for new matching set. Thanks for this video.
Same here.
Excellent video. Washer is 15 years old! Froze the new bearings in the freezer and I think that helped a lot. Like others here, had a heck of a time getting the shaft out of the old bearings. Had to really hit it hard directly with a 4 lb hand sledge. Glad I didn't break the spider, which also needed serious cleaning. Figured I was buying a new washer if it didn't work. Also used a wire wheel on a drill to clean up the shaft and bearing holes. That worked very well. Washer is quiet again and I hope to get a few more years out of it.
Glad you can get a few more years out of it!
Ive been repairing things since I was knee high to a grasshopper (back then, it was more like destroying, but I always wanted to see how things worked) Now Im repairing and worked on many machines but this one is fairly simple but has a lot of steps. Using this video, I believe someone who has never done anything like this should be able to complete the task. With every build I do, I write down step by step so I can reverse it when putting it back together. Now, once I have done it a few times, I pretty much do it by memory. This was just a well-done video. I was thinking my bearings were bad, but it turns out the spider had 3 broken legs, and how it lasted this long is amazing. Buying new spider and a bearing kit as well as a door gasket. It's gonna be just like new again. Plus, it was pretty fun.
Thank you so much for this video! I just finished taking mine apart replacing the bearing and putting it back together. I couldn't have done it as easily without your video.
Shaft should have a thin coating of lithium grease before sliding into bearings. Also, it's important to fill the inside of the seal with lithium grease to extend the life of the seal which keeps water out. Before installing bearings, clean out the weep hole in the tub near bearings. This hole is designed to drain any water that may get past the seal. Great video overall!
What about silicon grease ?
Son in law and I paid $80 for the bearings and seal. All done and washer works like new!! Thank you so much. I never go to anyone else for any appliance repair but you! Thanks again. Mike
Just tackled this over the weekend, with the help of my wife! Wow, what an adventure. Did it smooth and methodical. Took us 5 hours. This included a thorough clean. I even took the Drum and the tub to the car wash for a power clean. Bearings were a bit tricky. Decided to replace rather than get a new tub. It worked. Don't think I would recommend this as a first time experience replacing bearings. I did the shocks as well, glad I did, made a huge difference. This video was essential!
Great video, I just completed everything in under 5 hours, took pictures of what type of screws goes where and it saved me from a couple of misses. Thank you !
Thanks Steve! It took me about 8 hours to replace the two bearings and clean everything but the washer now runs perfectly. Unfortunately, separating the shaft and bearings was much more challenging than in your example. It took force, heat and a lot of cursing to get the shaft separated and the old bearings removed. The rest of the video was exactly as described. As others have said, you missed reinstallation of the door, but we found your other video that discusses that process. Right now, The whole country is under quarantine from the CoronaVirus and we’re in the epicenter in NYC. We didn’t want to have a delivery man come into our home, risking the virus. Thank you so much for your excellent guidance!
It was a bear to remove me inner drum from the rear outer drum as well. Ruined my biggest dead blow hammer. New spider went in to new bearings nicely though.
Agreed! Taking the old bearings out instantly rounded over the ends of my punches. Which are probably not hardened, definitely bought only to remove hinge pins, for which they are fine. Had to regrind them a dozen times while getting the bearings out. Also gouged the bearing holding surface a bit in the process, but that cleaned up fine with a dremel. Putting in the new ones with a punch as shown seems like a bad idea. I got the first one 1/3 in and then slipped and punched through the bearing's seal. Oops. Quickly ordered a new bearing and an installation tool. Using the bearing installation tool the new ones went in cleanly with very little work. Rather than freeze the bearings, I hit the tub with a heat gun for 10 minutes first, so it was warm to the touch (the bearings were room temperature, which due to another simultaneous problem at my house is 55 degrees F).
I wish more videos were done as well as this. Extremely clear, complete and easy to follow. Just watching gave me the confidence to take this on. I have a list of tools, the bearing kit and my best friend to help me with the project. Will have the laptop up and running to follow along. Small baggies for loose parts and camera ready. My household repair mechanic whom we have used over many years told me some time back that if this machine needed work on it he wouldn't do it. Now I understand why. The labor cost will put you deep into a new machine. Like Tangie noted, my repairman also said to buy a new washer. I've had the LG Tromm's for 10 years. Impressive machines, heavy use with very few issues. Seems like such a waste not to do the repair. The service guys are being honest with us on buying a new machine. But if you have the tools, patience and time ... do the repair yourself. I'll post how the repair went. Thanks again for the excellent video.
Okay, done! Machine runs like it did when it was new, so quiet again. Here's what I learned. Watch the video several times to be very familiar with the process. Steve did an exceptional job making it. Take your time, document what you're doing (taking pictures helps to look back on things like heater element connections). The baggie thing worked great keeping the screws organized. I used a marker to write on the bag the order, number and where they went. While Steve didn't seem to have much problem taking things apart, I did run into a few issues. Knocking out those bearings was not easy. A run to Home Depot to get a long steel post with a hand protection plate really helped ... $12. If you don't have a lot of room in your laundry room, be prepared to move the washer forward and backward to get at all the connections. I also found that my hot water solenoid was going out so replaced that as well $14. Get some clear silicon instead of soap for all the hose and seal connections. Extensions for your socket and nut driver helps to get at the hard to reach places. Have everything within reach, once you are on the laying on the ground reaching all those difficult spots, it's no fun hopping up for the Phillips head that's sitting on top of the dryer : ) The hardest part of this job is replacing the keeper ring on the tub gasket. If you are patient, this video will give you the confidence to do this job. All in, this was an under $70 out of pocket job. Took about 5 hours but I took my time. Having a good friend help you is a HUGE plus.
Keep your washer clean. Most people know to dry out the tub gasket after use (get down in the groves with a cloth). At the bottom of the gasket (on mine) are small holes that allow the water to drain out. These can get clogged with gunk so clean them out. What I found alarming was the amount of build up on the drum housing. Soap deposits. Thick and sticky. I'm assuming everyone will find the same thing (especially if you have a teenager using your washer). So I'm going to be following some of the how to maintenance cleaning to get those deposits out on a regular basis.
Good luck to all. Keep those machines running, out of the landfill and money in your pocket!!! Oh yeah, enjoy a beer with your friend that helped out. Job well done.
I remembered a few other things. If you can, keep your washer door open to air and dry it out. Keeps it from developing mildew, especially if you're not using it on a daily basis.
This is important. When you have the rear drum half ready to knock out the bearings, get a 5 gallon bucket (about $4 if you don't have one). Set the drum on that. Here's why; the rim of the bucket will be supporting the drum in a weight distributed fashion on the base of the drum ... not on the edges. Same thing when you flip it over to get the other bearing out. If you really need to hammer hard like I did to get the bearing out you could damage the outside rim. Some WD-40 sprayed on the old bearings helps.
Here's another tip. If you have never replaced the heater core, this might be a good time to consider doing it. It's a $50 part. But if your machine is around 10 years old or has had a lot of use, why not do it now while you have everything apart. I had replaced mine almost exactly 1 year ago because it failed.
My washing machine started to make the screeching sound whenever the tub turned. The tub was also meeting a lot of resistance. I decided to give this a shot. I purchased brand new bearings and a seal for about $50. I started the project at 7:30am and ended around 4ish. Most of the time was spent 'unscrewing/screwing' to dismantle and reassemble. The only other challenge I had was taking off the old bearing (and that was because it had a lot of rust on it). Once I was able to get it off, it was a breeze! Probably took me about 30 minutes or so just to hammer mine out of the tub. Sure enough, it was old and the seal had been broken which allowed water to get into the bearings. My washing machine it now brand new. It's so quiet, you can't even tell that is washing clothes anymore. Saved me hundreds of dollars! Thanks!!!!! If you have any questions, feel free to message me.
It took me about 10 hours altogether, but my bearing were REALLY in bad shape and I easily spend 3 hours getting the bearings out of the rear housing. I spend another hour cleaning the outer tub with a power washer. I would recommend this video. I think it covered all the information and I am not an incredibly "handy" guy.
Thank you for the video!
Couple of refining comments for those stuck bearings and more:
- use a proper brass drift to knock the bearings out as it is softer then steel and watch out to avoid damaging the walls of the bearings' housing. Do hit the outer bearing rings. Using a bearing puller is the best though.
- knock the bearings back in by placing the old bearing on top to avoid damage from the hammer.
- the top sensor (or light) on the rubber collar is sometimes zip-tie attached. It is possible to disconnect it instead of pulling it out from the rubber boot.
Thanks so much for this video. Although it looked daunting at first, once you get going it was easier than I thought it would be. I struggled a little bit trying to get the bearings out, but thankfully they weren't rusted etc. I also used your other video to replace the drain pump at the same time. As a female, I really appreciate that these videos exist for those of us that like to challenge ourselves to repair our own appliances. It saved me a ton of money and I will likely get another 10 years out of this machine. Thanks again :)
how can you tell when the bearing goes bad?
@@jsc3417 It will be noisy
Just finished this, worked like a charm. My advice:
1. Use bags and label them. Keep the bags with the parts.
2. Take pictures of anything during the disassembly that doesn’t match the video so you can confidently put it back. Some washers have slight variations in their brackets and whatnot.
3.Just reverse the directions for the door disassembly to reassemble it.
4. Plan to let WD40 or similar sit around the bearing for an hour, or overnight. It took a lot of force to get it out without damaging the housing. It's doable, but without the lubrication it wouldn't have come out. Mine was totally warped and that probably didn’t help.
5. It's seriously not as hard as it seems. Removing the bearing itself was the most time-consuming part. Do this repair when you first start hearing the noise. Don't wait three months like I did, it will make it much harder. The parts are not expensive or hard to get.
He makes look so easy. Probably his 50th one. Masterfully done sir. I agree with the labeling of the screws and I’d probably just buy a new one 13 years is a good run! I’m about to replace my pump. A 5 minute job by comparison. Thanks.
agreed. after 13 years, you probably better off buying a new washer.
Everything else will start to break down and begin to leak.
@@jsc3417 not really true...that's why the the "replace other stuff while we're in here" is important
Amazing instructions. My washer is older (WM0532HW) and slightly different because it has the top mounted controls. 90% of the instructions matched my machine. The key differences was the top control panel and the detergent tray. Taking things apart was scary but putting them back together was faster because you know what's next. I pride myself it completing jobs with no errors but I had two failures. First I forgot to connect the wire harness for the door. Then I had a major leak because I didn't connect the detergent tray to the inlet for the tub. These were easy fixes. My washer is about 20 years old so I expect to get at least 5 more years after this repair.
This is a great video and is well done thank you
I have replaced many other items on my machine , this bearing job isn’t too hard .. but as we got to the part of bearing replacement we realized that buying a new LG at this point would probably be better than spending more time and money fixing this old machine. The bearing shaft was so corroded I soaked it for 2hours before it would come apart.. just decided a new one would be a better choice.. our machine was a2009 so 12 years old is good enough..
Thank you for all the videos they have got us through a lot of smaller repairs
Ooh now to get my bearings out of the freezer!!
Never to hit a bearing by direct physical contact. Just use the old bearing top to prevent damage onto new one
if you have an extractor or brake removal/compressor tool it also works great !!!
As long as it’s around the outer race it’s not a problem.
Thank you for this tip! It helped!
Evidently You are a service instructor. Very Easy to understand.
Listen to you and , venture out into a a new trade..
It's not overwhelming, if you keep track of your screws and ALL parts.
As a tradesman by nature, "I got this". Thank You For Your instructional video, and detail.
Next time install the new bearing by place the old bearing on top of the new and gentle hammer it in, never hit a bearing on the side you can easily damage it.
EXACTLY. NEVER hammer on the walls of the bearing with a hard metal object; a wooden block or brass tool are a must.
Thanks 5 minutes into this I decided to tell my girlfriend that she needs a new washing machine!!!
Lol I’ll take the Challenge
LMAO
I just got a free washing machine... Thank you! Cost me less than $100.00 to 'fix' it! A new machine costs about $450.00 - 699.00.
Deciding if I should do this or not with a almost 20year old LG front loader.... Other than the the bearings grinding its still running like a champ.
after about 6 hours spread over two evenings, and a case of beer, I totally agree with your assessment at 5 minutes. what the hell was I thinking!
Just changed my LG front loader bearings and seal. I could NOT have done it without your help.
Your instructions were clear and concise, your videography and editing excellent. Thank you sir.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, except you skipped showing how to put the front door panel back on, also I ended up with two extra screws when I finished my work. I received an estimate of $1700 to fix my machine, which included $700 for labor. I fixed mine myself for just under $300 in parts and of course my own labor. I could not have done it without your video!!!! Thank you from the USA to my Canadian neighbors!
Good video. Thanks. Saw some comments below. I’m not a repair guy. But because of this video, I honestly got this done in well under 4 hours. More like 3 hours. That was with the shaft being seized in the bearings, hammering it out, smoothing out the shaft and bearing carrier, and then reshaping the spline so that it will all go back together. Oh, I had the kids clean everything...there was some mud and grime.
Great video. I was not sure to be able to do this fix but the step by step made it easy. I was happy to find out that I only had to change the spider arm and not the bearings. As mentioned earlier how to put the front panel is missing but had read somewhere that the metallic band clamp can be relatively easily put back after putting the gasket in the grove and use 2 small rope attached on each side of the spring to pull it, Needs 4 hands though. Thank for this video that saved me to buy a new washer.
Thank you for the video. I would not have had the confidence to tackle this myself without it.
One of the best instruction videos I have ever watched.
Done at a speed that people can follow
Very impressed
Thank you. Simply put, I could not have completed this job without this video.
Probably should add replacing the spider since it will almost certainly be shot in most repairs of bearings.
Again, awesome video and perfect comments, used about every one of them most likely.
Did this to my on LG washer this afternoon. This fella is easy to follow. Wish all how-to videos were as concise as his!
The bearing kit (two bearings, seal and tub gasket) cost $25. It took me a total of 5 hours, including time to clean the gunk out of the tub housing and baffle. Great Video. THX
Steve, thank you so much! The step-by-step video was exactly what I needed. Amazing attention to details. I especially appreciate how you showed how to reassemble. Most how-to videos will stop after disassembly and just tell you to reverse the instructions to reassemble. I was able to revive my family washer for what I would have paid in sales tax alone for a new machine! The biggest challenge I had was separating the inner basket from the outer tub. The bearings were really seized onto the spider. It took some hard swings with a 4 lb sledge plus some torch heat, but she finally broke loose.
Jeff, starting this project this weekend, LG wanted to charge me 600 for repair. Where there any issues with bolts being Stuck with loctite? Specifically the spider arm?
Steve...you are THE MAN! I followed your video step by step and all I can say is THANK YOU! Perfect, explicit & detailed! Couldn’t have done it without you!
It wasn’t easy, it wasn’t quick.
With this video I was able to pull the repair off and avoid the whole skeevy, wormy, BS “planned obsolescence” scam the makers of these machines are getting away with.
Thank you sir!!!
This machine was mechanically built as well as any consumer product can be.....extremely reliable, long lasting, and darn capable...had mine for 20 years so far, and even the electronic controls still work, which are the least reliable part of ANY modern pushbutton appliance....and just try to find a new part for those!
Beware! Beware! Beware!
For reference: older near retirement homeowner with modest repair skills. Washer model WM2688HNM purchased 2007.
Washer began making lots of noise then smoking. Watched several videos, including this one, and decided it must be the bearings and decided to try to fix it. Could afford a new washer but irked me to spend that kind of money and throw a large object in the dump when all it needed was a $35 part. Ordered the parts including a new spider arm (based on how degraded some were on these videos). Well.... Let me say here that this is a superb video and I would have had 0 chance of fixing the washer without it. However ... this ended up being MAGNITUDES more difficult than I expected. Much of this is probably my fault for not intervening sooner or having better preventive maintenance.
1. I had issues just getting the top off; it was stuck and I had to put loops of wire through some screw holes on the back and pull like crazy to get it loose. And that was just step 1!
2. My control board had a screw in addition to clips and I didn't see it and broke the screw holder off; don't think it really affected anything.
3. I took the front and back clamp off the boot; the front was moderately difficult even with the special spring spreading tool I bought (can't even imagine doing it without the tool); the back clamp was near impossible to put back on and the tool didn't really work for it. Tried the zip tie trick mentioned elsewhere and it didn't really work well either. I was able to give the boot a good cleaning so I guess that was a plus. Moral: don't take the back boot clamp off unless you really need to and get the tool.
4.The bearings were completely shot and the inner ring of one was essentially fused to the spider shaft. Had to pound for almost an hour with rust buster to get them out of the tub. The new ones were slightly difficult to insert but a little dish soap and put them in the freezer for a bit seemed to help.
5. Didn't know the spider arms bolts were permanently attached with red locktite. Only 1 came out normally, the others were obviously stripping the plastic bolt holders. There are a few videos on this that I wish I had watched sooner. Not sure any of them really work well. One suggests drilling a hole thru the spider arm and tub to get to a screw to release the inner plastic paddle in the tub. Did this but did not help. Turns out my model had 2 screws. Finally bought an angle grinder, watched some videos to keep from maiming myself and ground the heads of the bolts off. Still had to use a heat gun to get the remaining bolt parts out of the nuts to be able to reuse the inner plastic paddles; melted a little of the plastic and had to epoxy the loosened nuts back in their sockets. Had to order new bolts which seemed to work fine. I was terrified inserting them fearing one wouldn't seat correctly and I'd have to grind the head off again (this would ruin the spider arm by the way). Moral: replacing the spider arm, at least on this model, is monumentally difficult.
6. My model had the steamer box. Even with loosening it, one of the hoses below it was incredibly difficult to put back on and fix the clamp.
7. Forgot to put the check valves back in before attaching 2 of the hoses; had to redo the attaching.
Ultimately got the thing put back together and it seems to be working; have done multiple loads of laundry.
So, my takeaway: This was the hardest home repair job I have ever done, BY FAR. I probably spent 25+ hours on this when accounting for the difficulty, having to watch multiple videos, and having to learn how to use an angle grinder safely (this was a plus for skill building). I'm sure some of the issue was me (I've never repaired a major appliance before) and letting washer go too long before repair. I'm glad I did it, but just BEWARE that this could be WAY more difficult than expected depending on your model and condition of your washer. Good luck.
Oh no- now I am afraid to do this repair. Nothing is simple.
Thanks Steve, You made my day and most importantly you made my wife's week. We saved a ton and learned another ton. Fantastc teacher.
Great video. Just a minor suggestion in the order of disassembly of the counterweights. You should remove the top one first and then the bottom counterweight. Then you won't have to push down on the tub assembly to get to the top bolts.
Absolutely fantastic video! A few more close-ups of "this screw right here" would have been better but really helped me save a ton of money! Yes, the bearings were stuck to the shaft and took some serious banging with a DEAD BLOW hammer and off it came. Skipping the installation of the front door panel threw me off a but, but I got over it. Great help and fantastic video!
As many have said... great video. I have confidence in tackling this job soon. HOWEVER he skips the pain in the butt part of stretching that spring retainer over the bellows. They make a tool for that but i think other videos show some tricks because i dont want to spend more on special pliers for one time job
Steve, I consider myself pretty competent at fixing allot of different mechanical and electrical machines. With that said, I would like to say you are no doubt exceptional at both your explanation and videography of this somewhat daunting repair. I wish you were my neighbor, uncle or friend (no creepiness intended). You are awesome!!!!
Great instructional video. Spot on for tub removal and bearing replacement. Thank you so much! Only suggestion, unless I just missed it, is please show tub boot reinstallation with that wire spring thing. Holy begeezus ... that was a bear!
Excellent Video - Thanks so Much!! Got the same model for FREE, and it just needed some new bearings. The Drum Shaft was stuck, so I did what someone else had done by putting in the Shaft Bolt and hitting the head with a steel spacer & hammer. Then I degreased the motor parts and cleaned thoroughly (had shot bearing gunk all over them) then reassembled. Now the washer purrrs - thanks again.
Awesome vid. Ty! Lots of different bolts, recommend threading them back into the pieces as you take them off. Won’t have to figure out what went wear. Another tip use your vid recorder to record what ground went where and connectors etc..
Great video. It seems like a complicated job, but it’s really pretty simple. The step by step breakdown is excellent!
Hey great video. Got the old LG up and running, sounding like new again. Happy wife happy life!
Great video. It was very helpful. The only thing that I would suggest differently is when installing the new bearings, use the old one to hit the new one in place if you have to use a hammer. Hitting the new bearings directly with a hammer has often caused me to damage the new one if it fights me going in.
thank you so much for this informative video.... it took me about 5 hours total.... much longer taking it apart than putting it back together....Thank you again... I'm so glad I got to save my washer!!
Thanks for the video. It saved me from buying a new washer. Taking out the bearings was the hardest part but I managed to get it out. One thing I have to mention is that video skipped a couple of steps where the main front panel and spring ring goes on.. Other than that, great video. Thanks
Great help! Replaced both bearings today and your tutorial was spot on! Took me six hours, but I spent an hour cleaning all the soap scum from everything; I've had it since 2006. Thanks!
I just attempted this, when I put the tub around the drum (19:45)… my drum doesn’t free spin. Which it should right? I’m guessing my seal isn’t down far enough. It seems flush with the plastic. Any thoughts?
@@tannerholcomb4383 There really isn't anything that would stop it. Maybe one of the the bearings is a bit cocked? I had to replace the shaft as well, as it destroyed the seal. If there's any rust on the shaft, replace it and the seal. And double check the bearings are seated correctly.
@@PretzelPup I racked my brain, went back and pushed it down out of semi anger lol and just like that it seated lower into the correct spot… Im starting to realize why people just buy new washers. Not necessarily that complex of an ordeal but time consuming for sure. I had help getting the old bearings out and the new in from someone that had tools and I’ll tell ya that task without legit tools is hard/impossible
@@tannerholcomb4383 Glad you got it worked out. This was a one shot for $100. If that didn't work ...new washer.
Good job, excellent video. I've replaced an old Maytag Neptune bearings and it was very difficult. This looks quite easy. Most difficult part is replacing the bearings themselves, ensuring they drive in straight. I used the old bearings as a drift for the new ones, outer edge only of course
Thank you for the video! I used the freezer trick for the bearings! They were much easier to put back in than were the old ones to take out!
You just made me save at least 200$ . the bearing kit cost 40$,.. much cheaper than calling the repairman. Thanks a lot. very well done and easy to copy.
I am glad I found your video tutorial especially on how to replace the bearing without breaking the housing. I have the same problem with my LG washing machine. Just waiting for the parts to arrive.. Great tutorial!
things to replace along the way:
- sealing rings around the drum
- heating element
- bearing seal
- drain tubes
Thank you- just asked this question!
This video was perfect.
I have a 2011 LG WM2140CW that sounded like we were washing hammers. I was at just over 3 hours total work time. 1 hour on teardown, 1 on cleaning parts, and 1 hour on reassembly. I didn't have the steambox or a lot of the sensors, so it was quicker than the model shown. I was at about $120 in parts of Amazon. Bearing kit came with bearings and casing gasket for $30, and around $90 for the new spindel.
Some notes I have on my experience...
1) If you are going this deep to change bearings, for Pete's sake, get a new spider shaft spindel. Mine had a worn groove about 1mm deep around the base were the bearing failed. Not changing this would not stop the noise no matter how many times you changed the bearings. You're wasting money on bearings if not replacing the spider shaft.
2) When you're placing the spindel through the new bearings, you really need to make sure to get the spindel in completely. I took a scrap piece of wood, drilled 7/8" hole in it, fitted it over the shaft, then slowly tightened the nut in, drawing the spindel up through the bearings until the shaft was completely seated.
3) Be sure to clean out the short curved hose that leads from the bottom of the bellows to the bottom of the tub casing. Mine was packed full of lint. Explains why it hasn't been draining that great recently.
4) Take this opportunity to replace your external hoses. They are not really rated for 10+ years. I went with braided.
Thanks again for this video. Couldn't have done it without you.
This video helped a lot. Mine was not nearly as easy to do as his was but we got it done. Saved a lot of dough over buying a new washer. Runs like new now.
Thank you for the video!
Your step by step was perfect with the exception of you editing out the install of the front door. I figure that’s how I ended up with an extra screw...
The wife and I did it and we have the first wash going through now nice and quiet!
lol I had ONE extra screw, too!! From where?!?!??!
Thank you.
I have changed the bearings following your video. Took me 7 hours but its all done and working
Glad it's back working!
Awesome video. Done in 5 hours. Waited 6 weeks for parts. Very explanatory. Had no problems except for cleaning under the washer when i moved it. Thats were those Legos, socks, and change went....thank you again.
Did exactly what he showed in video. It turned out all good as long as you do it step by step. Thank you for the video
Right on, it takes awhile, you'll need to clean your drum once out, but Steve does it right!
Video extremely helpful! Much appreciated! I took pictures every step of the way. Painter's tape attached fasteners to things removed. Detergent on the hose fittings worked nice especially on the underside hose connection. I did notice the front door panel installation omitted but that's where the pictures I took came handy. Again thanks!
Thank you, I just finished my washer. This tutorial was priceless!
I fixed mine which is an LG but a different model, but it's essentially the same steps, you can do it in 5-6hrs or like I did, one day 3hrs and the next one 2hrs, you save a lot of money (bearings cost $25-$40), vs a repair man that can cost you $250+. Plus you learn the different components of a washer machine which is knowledgeable and useful in case the neighbor's washer machine goes off and you feel like making $200👨🏻🔧 🤝🏻🤣 Overall great tutorial video!!👍🏻
Good job, you make it look easy. Surely a light smear of grease or oil should be applied to the shaft before putting the basket back into the tub? Also maybe a smear of detergent on the tub gasket as a minor lube to help it take correct position? I'm a machinery kinda guy.
Thank you! Very comprehensive. Lots of good intel along the way to save heart-ache at each stage. She's all back together and humming quietly.
Please be aware not shown on video..my washer was a little bit older and the mud i had to take off the spider took me a least an hour...take your time and clean parts when putting it back together ..might as well since its all blown apart..cleaning will take longer than replacing bearings...but it was well worth it. Washer runs like new and you can buy kit on amazon or ebay 25 bucks , it includes bearings, bearing seal, and tub seal...saved me 850 bucks . Thank you and god bless.
You saved us getting a new washing machine! Great instructions...my husband gives you 2 thumbs up! Thank you for taking the time to post this...much appreciated!
You are so welcome!
Second time I've done this. Great video. I found the reason my bearing fail is water migrating thru the shaft seal and rust the bearings. This time I packed grease between the shaft seal and big bearing in hopes of keeping all water out of bearings. Bought NTN bearings as well rather than using bearings from Amazon kit. Big job but doable. Thanks for a well explained video!
I just attempted this, when I put the tub around the drum (19:45)… my drum doesn’t free spin. Which it should right? I’m guessing my seal isn’t down far enough. It seems flush with the plastic. Any thoughts?
Im guessing your water heater element did not fit under the stainless safety bracket. I had to fidgit with it for awhile before it went in correctly. But that element might be why the drum does not spin. Either that or the bearings went in a little wonky in the onner tub? Hope this helps
A much bigger job than anything I’ve tackled. This video is a great guide! Just about got the tub out and will be doing the bearings tomorrow! Hopefully it all goes back together or it’s a new machine!
I had a bearing groan noise this week. Once I had it apart I found the spider shaft had excessive wear on the shaft from the bearing. It had a lip edge where I could see the shaft was smaller. I replaced the spider, the bearings, and the shocks since the unit was 14 years old. Worn out shocks can put stress on the bearing with the drum hopping around. I realized this looking back and remembering the noise of the drum jumping around loud during the spin cycle. It never made any kind of noise in the early years. It's been a great washer. I had to wash everything because of build up slime on the drum, housing, seal. 3 hours good as new
If you're stuck taking the drum/basket out of the inner tub (around 13:00), your seal and bearings likely failed and will need to be replaced, hence why you're here in the first place. A lot of people have extreme difficulty getting the basket out by hitting the spindle, and this video makes it sound like a breeze. Mine was really lodged on there, my framing hammer and mallet were useless. I picked up a 45oz Dead Blow Hammer on a recommendation. After another soak in penetrative fluid, hitting a block of wood over the spindle got it right out with ease.
Maybe I'm chicken to hit it hard enough (with my dead blow) ??? Stuck tight. Tried icing the shaft (shrink) but no luck. Maybe let fluid overnight? Guess I don't really have much of an option right now anyway. Thoughts?
Thank you for an excellent video....made the job very easy and only cost $95 with both bearings, tub seal, bearing seal, and 2 day shipping. Greatly appreciate your effort in making these videos.
It took me some times but I saved my money thanks to this video.
I appriciate it.
Very thorough and helpful tutorial. I was able to fix the howling noise during the spin cycle using this excellent video. Thanks a bunch.
Glad it helped!
This is the best video. I’ve never taken on such an extensive repair but this material works great
Worked like a charm!!!!
This video was very helpful.
Had to beat the spider out of the bearing, which required purchase of a new one.
Other than that, smooth sailing! Thanks again!
This video was great, and perfectly matched my experience tearing down my LG washer. You instilled confidence in your calm demeanor...I could do this, I thought, he makes it seem like it's no big deal so I'll try! Thanks so much for posting such a thorough video!
Thanks for watching, glad it was helpful!
This video is excellent and with it I was able to complete this job. The bearings that came out of this one were terrible and now it is good to go once again.
Thank you and well done.
This was a super helpful video with great, step-by-step instructions that were right on target for my aging LG Tromm washer. Many thanks!