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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2013
- ORDER REPAIR KIT & JOIN CHAT: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/was...
Weekday order support: 206-763-6800 (for after hours support, use chat group on page linked above)
If, like me, you are disappointed to find out you have to replace the entire rear shell or tank assembly ($300+) just because the bearings and seal went out on your washer.
Because of this, I have made it easy for you to complete this repair. I know that you CAN do it and I hope you take this video as an encouragement to that end:) I have research the manufactures and found the correct seal so you don't have to search that down.
The appliance parts outlets will not sell this seal or the bearings. They only sell the entire back half assembly or rear shell assembly which can often be several hundred dollars.
BUY SEAL AND JOIN CHAT HERE: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/was...
My unit is a Gibson front load under counter unit (Model #: GTF1040AS0) but these parts will work for all sorts of model numbers including many Frigidaire, Gibson, Kenmore, Maytag, Whirlpool and other brands.
The rear shell assembly is made by Electrolux for brands such as Electrolux, Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Westinghouse, and others. The rear outer tub assembly (shell) part number 131525500 replaces 131275200 and 131462800 or AP2578105 by Frigidaire. This part is used on the following appliance models:
41744082400, 41744082500,
41744152401, 41744252500,
41748112700, 41748116700,
ATF6000ES0, ATF6000ES1,
ATF6000FS0, ATF6500FG0,
ATF6500GG0, ATFB6000ES0,
ATFB6000ES1, ATFB6000FS0,
BLTF2940ES0, BLTF2940ES1,
BLTF2940ES2, BLTF2940ES3,
BLTF2940FS0, BTF2140ES0,
BTF2140ES3, BTF2140FS0,
CFW4000FW0, CFW5000FW0,
FTF2140ES0, FTF2140ES1,
FTF2140ES2, FTF2140ES3,
FTF2140FS0, FTFB2940FE0,
FTFB4000FS0, FTFB4000FS1,
FTFB4000GS0, FWFB9100ES0,
FWFB9100ES1, FWFB9200ES0,
FWFB9200ES1, FWFB9200ES2,
GLTF2940EE0, GLTF2940ES0,
GLTF2940ES1, GLTF2940ES2,
GLTF2940ES3, GLTF2940FE0,
GLTF2940FS0, LTF2140ES0,
LTF2140ES1, LTF2140ES2,
LTF2140ES3, LTF2140FS0,
LTF2940EE0, LTF2940ES0,
LTF2940ES1, LTF2940ES2,
LTF2940ES3, LTF2940FE0,
LTF6000ES0, LTF6000ES1,
LTF6000FS0, 417.29022890,
417.29042990, 417.29042991,
417.29042992, 417.29052990,
417.29052991, 417.39012890,
417.39012891, 417.39022891,
417.40032990, 417.40042990,
417.40052990, 417.40142000,
417.41042000, 417.41052000,
417.41142000, 417.42042100,
417.42052100, 417.42142100,
417.43042200, 417.43052200,
417.43142200, 41739012890,
41739012891, 41739022890,
41739022891, BTF1240ES0,
BTF1240ES1, BTF1240FS0,
CFW2000FW0, CLCG900FW0,
CRTF1240AS0, CRTR9300AS0,
CTF140ES0, CTF140FS0,
FCCW3000ES0, FCCW3000FS0,
FEFL64DSC, FTF1040AS0,
FTF530ES0, FTF530ES1,
FTF530FS0, FTF630AS0,
FTR630AS0, FWT425RHS0,
FWT445GCS0, FWT445GES0,
FWT445GES1, FWT445GES2,
FWT449GFS0, 41724182301, 41727182700, 41727182702, 41727182703, 41727182704, 41729052991, 41729042990, 41729042991, 41729042992, 41729052990, 41729052991, 41739012890, 41739012890, 41739012891, 41739012891, 41739022890, 41739022891, 41739022891, 41740032990, 41740142000, 41740052990, 41740042990, 41740412701, 41740412702, 41741042000, 41741052000, 41741142000, 41743142200, 41742052100, 41742142100, 41743042200, 41743042300, 41743052200, 41742042100, 41743142300, 41744042400, 41747102701, 41744072300, 9703871220, BTF1240ES0, CLCG900FW0, BTF1240FS0, CFW2000FW0, BTF1240ES1, CRTF1240AS0, CRTR9300AS0, CTF140ES0, CTF140FS0, FCCW3000ES0, FCCW3000FS0, FEFL64DSC, FTF1040AS0, FTF530ES0, FTF530ES1, FTF530FS0, FTF630AS0, FTR630AS0, FWT425RHS0, FWT445GCS0, FWT445GES0, FWT445GES1, FWT445GES2, FWT449GFS0, FWT449GFS1, FWT449GFS2, FWT645RHS0, FWT645RHS1, FWT647GHS0, FWT647GHS1, FWT648GHS0, FWT867GHQ0, FWT867GHS0, FWTB59RGS0, FWTB69RGS0, FWTB8200DS0, FWTBB30DS0, FWTR425RHS0, FWTR445RFS0, FWTR445RFS1, FWTR445RFS2, FWTR549GG, FWTR549GS0, FWTR867GHS0, FWTR645RHS1, FWTR647GHS0, FWTR647GHS1, FWTR865RHQ0, FWTR865RHS0, FWTR867GHQ0, FWTR645RHS0, GCEH1642DS1, GCEH1642FS0, GHSC39EEPW1, GLEH1642DS0, GLEH1642DS1, GLEH1642FS0, GLGH1642DS0, GLGH1642DS1, GLGH1642FS0, GLTF1040AS0, GLTF1240AS0, GLTF1570ES0, GLTF1570ES1, GLTF1570FS0, GLTF1670AS0, GLTF1670AS1, GLTF2070CS0, GLTF2070DS0, GLTF530DS0, GLTF530DS1, GLTR1670AS0, GLTR1670AS1, GMT1670AS0, GSTF1670AS0, GSTF1670DS0, GSTF7200DS0, GSTR1670AS0, GSTR1670DS0, GTF1040AS0, GTF1040CS0, GTF1040CS1, GTF1040FS0, GTR1040AS0, GTR1040CS0, GWT445RFS0, GWT445RGS2, GWT445RFS2, GWT445RGS0, GWT445RGS1, GWT445RFS1, 11047781700, 11047781701, 11047781702, 11047789700, 11047789701, 11047789702, 11047791700, 11047791701, 11047791702, 11047799701, 11047799702, WFW9600TA00, WFW9600TA01, WFW9600TA02, WFW9600TB00, WFW9600TC00, WFW9600TU00, WFW9600TW00, WFW9600TW01, WFW9600TW02, WFW9600TZ00.
This man should get an award-winning trophy for doing the hard work of tracking down all these bearings and seals made all over the world....
Hats off to you
Instructions were dead-on accurate!!! I love it when a professional posts videos like this. Nicely done!!!
Great job, Jerrod. Front loader washing machines are so expensive; those of us that have had problems when the machine is just a few years old (but out of warranty) don't want to shell out hundreds of dollars for repair. Tips such as yours really help a person learn how to keep repair costs down for the DIY'ers. Thanks.
Thanks Craig
Thanks for taking the time to show how to replace the bearings and seal on these type washing machines. And thanks for sourcing these difficult to find parts. It's guys like you that make the Internet great. Another item to consider sourcing is motor brushes. These brushes wear over time and must be replaced, eventually. After much research, I was able to find and purchase a new set of Electrolux brushes from the U.K. off eBay. But, brushes can be sourced from China, too. Many of these machines go to the dump due to worn motor brushes and bad bearings. Thanks again for your contribution in making the world a better place.
GREAT VIDEO spoke with sears and they wont sell the bearing kit at ALL only sale the rear tub so glad I googled it and found your video with away to order the bearing kit and the video made it so much easier for what I saved from not getting the rear tub I went ahead and got new belt ,shocks, springs and water pump figured since had it all down to go ahead and make it a little better
Awesome! Glad to hear it.
Thank you for the shocks tip! Very effective way to get them out
Not knowing my machine model off the top of my head, just finding this video to get a general understanding of front loader mechanics, this was excellent. Thanks heaps Yellow van handy man!
Thanks Beau - We are working hard to create a more peaceful environment for people at home. We know first hand that having stuff that is in disrepair can be stressful.
Thank you. The bearing kit and video enabled me to repair our Kenmore washer. It's working great now. The hardest part of the job was getting the drum out of the case by myself. I used a few wooden blocks and a small car jack. Everything else went like clockwork. Not bad at all.
Great news! We have a couple of new machines that I am going to dig into soon and shoot some more videos to add to the collection.
When pressing the new bearings into place make a tool or use a socket that will apply your pressing force only on the very outside lip flange of the outer race of the bearing ,, do not press the bearing by hitting or applying pressure to the inner race or you will likely damage the new bearing.
Hi, fantastic videos, our samsung WF337AARXAA just stopped spinning and draining. My son took out drain pump and found thin rock about inch long in pump housing, with one broken fin. But unit was making noise before it stopped, spinning drum by hand, spins, but have slight grinding noise, almost like small pebbles behind drum. I just ordered your bearings and seal kits for our washer....thank you so much....I will be ordering more parts for our relatives in the future....again fantastic videos..
greg
Just ordered bearing and seal kit! Thanks for making it easy and available!
mc22367 Sounds good. Let us know if you have questions about making the repair. We host a great forum here: groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/washer-repair
Jared, Thank you. I going to take out the tub and look at the shaft and bearings. Eitherway I'm committed at this point. Just that darn thing is stackable and in a closet, upstairs. So it all has to be removed anyways. Replacing the belt took 5 minutes, getting to the opening 30, putting it back took longer and required Herculean effort. I figured its out now and I should see what's wrong with it. I appreciate your help and suggestion.
SuperJamster1 Sounds good. They are a pain to manhandle around but fairly easy to work on and repair.
Wow! It took me a while searching youtube to find this and it is awesome. Thanks Jarod for the tip and link. I will be getting to my repair soon and probably order the parts through you then return to finish commenting.
Sounds good James. It isn't too difficult to do so have fun with it.
Jerrod
could you advice which tools I can use to remove main shaft screw. my machine is Electrolux model EWF8576. i have tried HEX KEY but failed
I thank you. Your video helped me replace my bearings in my Kenmore front loader which they said I could not do. It took me 4 hours but I rechecked everything I did. Now I find that I need a new spider and shaft since mine is corroded away. I bought your bearing and seal packet and hoped you could lead me to a spider and shaft
Some models have spiders available for separate purchase but most require you buy the entire drum assembly. You should also call the manufacturer to see if they will warranty the drum assembly. Depends upon the age of the unit.
Great job on video.. very professional.
My tub has a seam running through the seal area. Should I smear black RTV around the seal before tapping it in?
great job thank you
Nice video - thanks for creating! I am doing this job now, but i'm unable to get the basket and shaft to pop out of the tub (what you're doing at 5:45). I am hitting the shaft with 3lb sledge hammer (and wood) and its not moving. I'm afraid to hit it harder ...am i missing something? Any suggestions?
We just repaired the shock absorbers and springs on a Sears Model 417-44102301 front loading machine. The machine is working fine but will not do the final/fast spin. Is the problem in the motor? Any advice?
My washing machine Ariston Model No. AML 1105 do not drain and spin so the clothes remain wet. I want to know how to set or program or how it works. I got this WM from a friend who has not its manual. please reply me today to solve this problem
THANK YOU GOT THAT LITTLE BUGGER !!!
thank you for this great video~
Your welcome Dion. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Jerrod, That worked great. I guess that is why you are the professional and not me. The inner bearing was seized onto the shaft. I had to cut it off. Do you know if the inner and outer bearings are the same? You said in your video that they were not difficult to find.What should I look for? Thanks again for such great help.
You can get the repair kit or just the special seal here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
Will the seal I can order work on a Samsung WF520ABP/XAA and about how long will it take to ship and arrive
Thank this is going save us a lot of Advil :)
Glad to help!
Hey great video. Do you have a bearing kit for a GE front loader model# WCVH6260FWW. I'm having a hard time finding parts for this particular model. Thanks in advance
Would the bearing failure also cause the front tub to be eroded out by the metal inner tub rubbing against it? I just took mine apart and see the front plastic tub has been eroded and eaten away by the spinning inner tub..
Hi Jesse, did you find out why the front plastic is eroded? I have same issue. Deciding on repair or replace after 10Y of good service.
Great video! My Frigidaire Affinity drum is stuck and won't budge more than a few inches by hand. Would this be anything other than a bad bearing? Received error code e52 (speed control board) but the drum wouldn't lock up for that reason correct? Thanks in advance
Jordanfasulo It could be bad bearings or it could be a broken spider. If the machine is not very old then it would likely be the bearings. To test, reach inside the door and try to lift the drum. If it moves up and down more than an inch without moving the outside tub then the spider is probably broken. If it moves up and down just a little bit then it likely is a bad bearing.
Need your expert help I remove the Reed's sensor now I'm not sure where it goes? Can you help me locate where to put the reed sensor?
My front loader (Kenmare) belt keeps coming off. I noticed that the large back pulley' has about 1/4 inch play where it goes in to far and allows the belt to rub on the drum's pastic housing. Is this shaft movement because of the bearings going bad or a washer missing?
SuperJamster1 It is likely because the pulley has become loose as it is fairly soft metal as compared to the shaft. You will most likely need to purchase a new pulley. One thing you can try is getting an oversized washer and placing it on the bolt such that it puts pressure on the pulley. The washer needs to be really large so it does not touch the shaft. You will have to use 2-3 washers to get it big enough to put pressure on the pulley. This added pressure will force the pulley into place and you may get some more life out of it.
I can't get the outer tank of of the shaft to the inner drum. I've pounded on the shaft QUITE hard, but it will not come out of the bearing. Am I missing something. There doesn't seem be any locking mechanism. I'm worried that I'll break something.
B Gordon-
Once you have it all apart, screw the nut back onto the rear shaft most of the way so that it covers the threads. Then pick up the tub by the open side with the shaft facing straight down over concrete. Pull the assembly off the concrete floor so it is up maybe an inch or two. Drop it onto the rear shaft that is protected by the nut from there. Continue doing this until you are up about one foot off the floor. Drop it until it pops. This has always worked for me.
Jerrod
The bearings are not matching on any of the machines that I have seen.
Will your repair kit work for a GE 2.2 DOE CU. FT. FRONTLOAD WASHER (WCVH4800KWW)?
Rebecca,
Yes, we have a repair kit for your machine. The model is slightly different than normal but it looks like an 8153 repair kit and I am doing a little research now to verify that. You can order a kit here and it ships the same day: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
Thanks-
Jerrod
Hey Jerrod, were you able to verify that 8153 is the right repair kit?
Yes! Sorry for not getting back to you. That is the correct repair kit.
Jerrod
Jim - I honestly don't know what the reeds sensor is. Maybe look through one of the repair videos I did and see if you can see it somewhere so you know where it goes.
Jerrod
any way I can fix my GE wbvh6240hww? GE is telling me I can only replace the whole drum at a cost of $400 just for the part. I only paid $150 on craigslist. Def not worth it, but would love to be able to fix it if possible. Thanks
+VASAMOAN Yes, you can fix it. Look here for the repair kit: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
Thanks for the Video! Do you know if this same process, or similar, will fix an LG front load Washer model# WM2010CW?
+Mike Williams - Mike, We do have a kit that works for may of the LG machines but I do not see this model number in the list. It is likely that we do have the correct parts but would need to verify them with your machine. When do you plan to take the unit apart? We could next day air the parts to you if you pull it apart and confirm the size of the bearings and the seal.
+Jerrod Sessler Thanks for the reply. I got it apart and it ended up being the rear support.(spider) The part was caked with soap that didn't dissolve but it ate away at the metal like acid. I cant believe soap could do this. Maybe I should replace the seal anyway since i have it apart. Do you deal with other parts? Or can you recommend a dealer that is reasonable on there prices? how much is that bearing seal? The part # (Spider) is 4434ER0003B < or C will work too I guess. Washer Tub seal4036ER4001C, The small seal is (I think this is the bearing seal) 4036ER2003A From Sears Parts Direct. They want around $100 +tax/shipping. Thanks
Thats for all 3 parts. The bearings looked fine. I cant believe how much of a piece of cake this was to get apart. I think I spent more time taking pictures of everything so I wont forget how to put it back together. lol Is this more difficult to put back together? I think literally anyone could to this. I'm gonna eat these words! Haha
+Mike Williams You can get the bearing and seal repair kit on my site here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
For other parts, I would search for "appliance parts" - there are a number of good vendors. I have ordered from appliancepartspros.com and repairclinic.com and some others.
I would replace the seal and bearings if you have it apart. The seal is the number one failure mode for these machines and the bearings are toast once they get wet.
Jerrod
+Mike Williams I agree that the repair is not that difficult but many people do not have the tools or the general skills so the videos are helpful to take the fear out of this sort of repair.
Thanks for the video. I've replaced the bearings, reassembled and then ran the machine, but the tub would not spin fast. I tore down the machine again (I'm getting very good at it now). I found the problem to be the new bearing seal is creating drag/friction on the shaft. I applied a very light amount of 3 in 1 oil to confirm that was the problem, there after the tub (cheese grater as I like to call it) spun better. What would you recommend to lubricate the seal or lessen the drag?
Hum... This is curious. What is the model number of the unit that you have? You can message us also and we can research the order. I just want to make sure we have the correct seal for your model. It is most likely the correct one but there are some that are only about 3mm difference and that could be an issue. They should be snug but not super tight.
Jerrod
The seal was not purchased from you. Long story short, the bearings and seal were pulled from a new back shell.
calmicp Well, it still should be close. I assume there was some other reason that you could not use the other back 1/2. It will put a little more load on your motor but likely not enough to be much of an effect. Run it for now and see if you have a problem again. We try to ship same day and we pay for priority mail so can get you a kit pretty quickly if that ends up being what you need.
Jerrod
The long story: My machine is about 12 years old, the bearings were noisy and I ordered a new back shell (at the time I did not come across your video) it did not go together well. The mold on the new back shell was different than the original one and when put together it seemed to be just millimeters shorter; the tub was rubbing on the boot and creating an obvious problem. A new back was sent, same problem. In the end I put the old backing on, dealt with the noise until my husband pulled out the bearings from one of the new backs. (For some reason the company only wanted one rear sent back. Thus the reason I could pull the new bearings.) Sooo, is there a lubricant you could suggest to put on the portion of the seal that comes in contact with the tub shaft that would be water resistant?
calmicp There really isn't any sealer that will stay in there on the water side as it will just end up on your clothing. Under the seal, you can apply some lubricant that will help soften up the rubber a bit. The rubber will stretch and over time will actually harden into a larger shape. That said, I can't tell from this vantage how tight the seal really is. I would probably use some heavy bearing grease on the backside if I was wanting some sort of lube there. Hope this helps.
Jerrod
where do you get parts
hetouahta htneuohtnueo - Yes, I recommend applying a small amount of 100% silicone sealer to the outside of the seals when you install them. It seals the outside and helps keep the seal in place.
+HomeTask Thanks! My original seal wasn't flush with the tub (it was somewhat recessed), but I'm not sure if it was bottomed out or not. If I smear grease on the spider shaft and test-fit with the seal installed flush, the lip rides right against the edge of the machined area on the shaft. If I push the seal all the way in, then I can tell from the marks on the grease that the lip is riding about 1/8" from the front. This is a Samsung WF409ANW/XAA. Do some of the models require the seal pushed all the way in (bottomed out)?
+HomeTask I used nontoxic aquarium silicone from Home Depot. Made it MUCH easier to install the new seal. I used dry ice to freeze the bearings, which allowed me to just pop them in with gentle thumb pressure (through heavy gloves of course). Much easier than using a hammer! Thanks for making these videos.
Mr. Sessler, I have a wcvh6800j1ww and would appreciate those bearing numbers if you had a minute. Your a kind fella!! You are appreciated I guarantee. If you had a seal number that would be over the top.
You need the 8153 and can order here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
Sears of course wants to sell me the whole SS tub to. Get the attached spider. Or they will warranty the tub if I have them install the tub which will also probably cost me $300. I find the tub and spider is a standard fit for over 50 models of front loading washers
Do you also have a kit for the dryer? Mine is starting to sqeek, so I might as well do both at once.
+Gordon Symonds - I have taken my dryer apart a couple of times. The problem that I had both times was that the motor had literally overheated and melted. One time I replaced the bearing that is in the back of it but it really isn't anything like the bearing assembly that is used in the washers. I also think that the dryer bearing or support kit is also fairly readily available. Here is one sample that I found: www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-drum-support-roller-w10314173-ap5177441.html
+HomeTask I'm sorry, I failed to mention that my set are GE. models WSXH208 and DSXH43. Are the dryers about the same as the whirlpool?
+Gordon Symonds I am surprised that the repair kit for this is so expensive. I do not remember them being that much for most of the models. www.appliancepartspros.com/ge-rear-drum-bearing-we25x10001-ap2044401.html
+HomeTask thanks for the info. I am going to tare it down this weekend to repair the washer and then I will take a look at the dryer as well.
I have a GE washer model WSXH208V1WW. Do you sell the o-ring seal between the two half of the housing? If I have it open, I may as well replace the o-ring seal. But I cannot find it? Any suggestion on how to find it?
Bruce-
We do not sell that seal. If the seal is not broken then I normally put a bit of silicone sealer on it and reuse it. I have replaced them and they are cheap to get from parts houses but I have never had one leak that I rubbed with silicone and put back together.
Jerrod
HomeTask I got everything opened and surprisingly there is no seal. The two sides were held together with 23 screws. I have a question, do you have a return policy? I found out that the problem is not with the bearings. The problem was the spin tub. All three arms of the spider were broken due to rust. I also pulled about couple pounds of lime stones from inside the housing. Is there a way to prevent it for forming in the first place? The inside wall of the housing is also covered with green molds. No washer machine will last with this kind of build up inside. There has to be some maintenance cycle that can be done to help prolong the life of the washer. So I am going to have to get a new washer because the cost of a new spin tub is over $600. If I can somehow return the bearings that would be great. I did not use any of the part in the kit.
omgname Bummer - the spider does end up breaking sometimes but it is rare that all three arms are broken. You can certainly return the kit. Just package it up and send it back and we will make sure you get the proper credit. The water type and soap type play a big part in the sediment build up inside the machine. Leaving the door open when not in operation is also helpful.
Hi I looking for bearings size and seal for ge washer machine the model # wcvh6600h0ww thanks
WPXH214A0WW GE Profile 02/02 Great Video. I want to be sure I have a bearing problem. My machine has operated great for years. Coming off high speed spin it sounded like a belt separated with a spontaneous thump, thump, thump. (Still do not know where the cat is). With such confidence, I captured the model number, and ordered a belt. My machines are stacked in an upstairs closet in a galvanized pan, on hardwood floors so I waited to have the part before pulling the machine. I built a base and slid the stacked machines into the hallway, pulled the washing machine rear cover and discovered the belt looks perfect. Can the bearings spontaneously & catastrophically fail similarly? My shocks and springs look fine to me. Is there a way to test those before I move to the bearings? Don't try this at home. I ran the machine at fast spin, empty and dry, and inspected the movement, very smooth until it hit that resonance again. It started to shake again. I pulled the front left shock forward and it immediately stabilized. Any other trouble shooting before I purchase parts that might be unnecessary?
Yes, likely a bad bearing and seal.
Look in the description just below the video. There is a bunch of data and then the publisher info. It is just above the first comment. There is a web link. TH-cam does not allow links to be pasted in comments or I would just put it here.
I can't get the pulley assembly off the back of it, do you have any ideas?
Nett-
Usually if you pull the bolt out you can work the pulley back and forth and work it off. If you can't get the bolt off and do not have an air wrench then you need to stick something through the pulley near the outside edge of the pulley circle to hold it in place and loosen the nut while holding it there.
Jerrod
just got it off, thank you, my strong son banged the heck out of it with a hammer and finally got it off
where can i get a shaft assemble for a ge front load washer its prob. 25 yrs old
Ron - I like appliance parts pros or repair clinic. The part you need is a "drum assembly" which comes with the shaft. If you post the model number of your machine then I can research what part you need.
Regards - Jerrod
any idea where I can find the seal in canada? part number? what's the bearing number so I can get it before taking apart.
kenmore 970-c42072
+Shay A - You can order a repair kit here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
THE HIDDEN IN PLAIN SIGHT SEAL WAS THE MISSING LINK THEN IT BECAME A 4 MINUTE JOB. I MIGHT GET MORE TAN HOT DOGS TONUGHT. LOL
Cheese and onions
please i need number of bearings and seal
You can order a bearing & seal repair kit for your front load washer here: www.yellowvanhandyman.com/washerrepair.aspx
i don't know who did your video but it took away so much from your explanation that I needed to stop watching. You seem to be knowledgeable but you really need to redo this.
Really sorry about the video quality. My son started recording these for me when he was about 8 years old and there was certainly a learning curve. Hopefully there is some value in them as is. Sorry.