AC Not Working Part 1: Diagnostics and Tear Down Ford 5.4L F150 and More
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- Thinking of repairing your leaking vehicle AC but intimidated by the complexity? So was I, but I tackled it anyway and I’m sharing the experience. With a couple of specialized tools the diagnostics and removal is not that difficult. In this video I will find the leak, remove the compressor, refrigerant lines, accumulator, orifice tube and condenser. In later videos I will finish the job. Shown is a 2000 Ford F150 with a 5.4L engine.
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Great job! I've watched ten of these and nobody shows close-ups of every fastener and connector the way you do. Very helpful!
Some time my Air comes on but most of the time it won't come on
The quick release connections running to evaporator push the lines in gently while pinching quick release tool people who dont work with these on occasion always fight to get these
God bless u 4 this
crazy how in florida, we dont have to deal with all that rust unless its a northern car. suree complicates things lol
I'm on a Florida vacay right now and even the 20 year old Dodge minivans still look good! These are practically in pieces in the north.
@@TheOriginalMechanic you would think the salt in the air from the ocean would affect the cars down here more. but unless your living right on the water (literally) it doesnt affect them much. we dont have to deal with rusted out brake lines, rusted fuel tank straps floor boards rotting out unless its a northern car. dont get me wrong,, in the summer, the heat really sucks and im over it.
Low pressur liquid high pressure vapor
I have an AC from '83 that works perfect, but the one in my other car from 2001, gave the last owner such a headache that he pulled out the whole thing..
Good day sir. My ‘99 f-250 light duty does not push cold air. I checked pressure and it wasn’t completely out but low at 12 psi. Any way I can connect with you? Thx
I can go back and forth here in comments or on my listed email.
@@TheOriginalMechanic I was looking for your email and I couldn’t find it.
@@MB-ln1yk It's on the channel home page under the "about" tab but I'll make it easy: larsquared@gmail.com
I don't get it, the clutch is not engaging (i.ow. the compressor is not turning) so of course it has no pressure ? How can you know it has a leak if the compressor is not turning ?
If there is some refrigerant in the system you should get some reading with a gauge even with the compressor off. It's also possible to jump the clutch relay to force it on but don't run it for long that way. Try using a UV flashlight for look for a leak (in the dark). Some car makers put dye in at the factory. But the best way to find a leak is to add a some refrigerant with leak detector and then later shine your UV flashlight on all the components till you find the culprit(s).
@@TheOriginalMechanic how can you get any reading at all when you let the pressure out putting on your hose, unless it has a very good valve, and even then, when you screw it on eventual leftover pressure (virtually non-existing if you ask me, if this compressor hasn't worked for ages) will escape. It doesn't really take serious leak or of any concern, for it to loose pressure over extended periods. I see how you decided to swap it out just by the looks of it, and often you don't need UV to see it has leaked, just as some of the things showing up with UV light can also be just corrosion) but to measure pressure on a system that hasn't been pressurized for a the longest time - it looks like - is just weird. This is why you usually have to top of with new gas, even if the AC is working fine. I get it in a perfect world this would not happen, but in reality it does.
Does this work for a 4.6 as well?
where is part 2
These should play one after the other but...part 2
th-cam.com/video/RMjLIEMSfcQ/w-d-xo.html and if needed part 3: th-cam.com/video/4_bV1IDjAvs/w-d-xo.html