AC Not Working Part 2: Flushing and Installation of Components Ford 5.4L F150 and More
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- In part two of the repair of an refrigerant leak in a 2000 Ford F150, the condenser and evaporator are flushed of oil and contaminants and the compressor, accumulator and condenser are installed. Shown is a 2000 Ford F150 with a 5.4L engine.
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They recommend you always flush the condenser and evaporator backwards, or in reverse direction of normal flow.
Good afternoon family. Thank you very much for the valuable information and for your time ⏲️ 🙏. 👍🏼👍🏼
I have a 2007 F150 5.4L this by far the most detailed I have seen. Starting this project today, Thanks for the help.
You're welcome. Good luck with you're project. It's challenging.
thank you very much
Yours is literally the only video I've seen that actually covers cleaning of the condensor. I have an older vehicle with the larger holes as well. Thanks!
You're very welcome. I'm always glad to see someone tackling this challenging job. Ever time I use my AC I still get a little feeling of accomplishment!
No literally (not necc)
Good work
BEST VIDEO OUT THERE FOR THIS JOB, WELL DONE ,PRECISE ,GREAT VIDEO FOOTAGE,AND CLEARLY DEMONSTRATED,I AM NOW A NEW SUBSRIBER,THANK YOU !!
good condenser & compresser installation # 👍🇵🇰
Good job ..........
I second that👍🇬🇧
I've seen from other reviews that they blow from the outlet (opposite the normal flow) to unclog whateven debris in there..
Yeah I think there is value in reversing the direction.
Wow that seems like a lot of compressor oil
Not pulling out the evaporator means the fins are still clogged with lots of debris. The fan cannot blow efficiently to get cold air.
Really well-done video for the do-it-yourself people (like me). You should consider edit to point out the tool you used to center the compressor bolts. I use the same tool I bought at Harbor Freight as a set of the round pin tools recently. I forget what the round pins with the claws on the ends are called. You may want to point out the direction to install the expansion valve if goes one way or another for best performance. You may want to edit to explain why replacement of the accumulator is required and show how to check for leaks with gazillion bubbles and electronic sniffer. Thanks for mentioning where you rented the flush tool. You make it look easy, but I know how difficult it can be to reassemble and do it right. Is there another video that shows how to evacuate and fill with refrigerant and test for leaks and using pressure gauges I missed??
I see you are commenting on part 2 of a 3 part series. These may not answer all your points but there is much more. Part 1: th-cam.com/video/MNP3WPOITps/w-d-xo.html
Part 3: th-cam.com/video/4_bV1IDjAvs/w-d-xo.html
@@TheOriginalMechanic Outstanding, thank you.
I believe if you turn your wheels left it will drop past an through the center link an idler arm
Good tip! That worked for me.
When you,blew out the evaporator, did it feel fairly restricted ? I blew out mine with air and it felt like it went in at 80 psi and came out around 20psi…..is that normal? Thanks for the video
I noticed that too. I think no matter how tightly you hold the blower end of the compressor on the evaporator some air is going to escape there.
@3:20 For how long did you send the compressed air through the Evaporator to remove the most of the solvent? In one film there was a statement about 40 min (shop advised or smth.) It seems too long. That author also mentioned shop-vac, did you try that? I think maybe to leave the Evaporator tubes open like for 2-3 days (slightly cover w/plastic bag from the top, so no dust comes into the Evaporator) and it will dry out more and maybe completely? Thank you for the film again. This is the best and most detailed film on AC flushing.
Thanks for the comment. the more the better I suppose on the flushing but I didn't do it for more than a few minutes. Have not had any problems with the ac in the 3 years since.
@@TheOriginalMechanic Thank you for the replay. I thought that 40 min kind of too long, but good to know the confirmation fm/the mechanic w/experience.
If the entire system only requires 9 then why did you put 5 ounces in the accumulator if the new compressor came with 7? Seems like the system has WAY too much oil in it now. Have no idea where you came up with 5 ounces at for the accumulator.
I used Ford's detailed instructions that came with the compressor.
Yea the full capacity is in the compressor usually or just a couple oz for shipping an protection always dump it and measure
@@xt5271 warranty with Denso requires NEW condenser only
@9:59 Is it Slim Line Seal Washer you are removing? Shop Manual says no oil on Slim Line Seal Washers, they are never lubricated. But those green, they are o-rings, and Shop Manual says to lubricate the with R-12 mineral oil (not PAG, since corrosion develops in the future), though the AC system in that car is using PAG in all parts of AC. @10:03 you just put o-rings on. Did you lubricate them before? Or it is not so important. Thank you for the detailed film, especially that you specified what Air Pressure (90 psi) to apply to Flush Gun.
I don't know what that first item was that was removed at 9:59. I don't specifically recall putting anything on those green o-rings, but as a rule I do put on a thin film of whatever is in the system. In this case PAG oil, Always a good idea both to aid installation and help with the sealing. I did not have a shop manual. I used a Haynes manual along with rather detailed instructions included with the OEM compressor.
4YR OLD VIDEO, ORIFICE TUBE WAS $2.50
JUNE 2024 SAME TUBE $3.99
TRUMP COME BACK!
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