This video will walk you through the removal and installation of the air conditioning orifice tube on a Ford F Series Pickup Truck. Save money and do it yourself.
It's probably worth mentioning that you should ensure there is no pressure in the system and refrigerant is properly recovered before opening the line.
That sounds like the low side is leaking and the high side is either also leaking, or it's bleeding through the compressor. In either case it's on its way to 0.
@@Airon79 For older trucks I believe they started with R-12 and around 1993 switched to R-134a and then changed to R1234yf in 2021. You can still buy R-134a. It's not good to release R-134a to the atmosphere. Best to buy all the parts, find a/c shop that doesn't have a problem installing your parts. They can do a system flush first, add proper a/c oil, install all your parts, evacuate the system and add correct amount of refrigerant. They have all the tools and equipment to do the job.
Is there a chance of a leak in that connector? I have a Mustang and I performed a gas leak test on it and in that connector it activates announcing the presence of a gas leak.
It's probably worth mentioning that you should ensure there is no pressure in the system and refrigerant is properly recovered before opening the line.
Thank you. That’s a great point. I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks. I was about to ask Google.
Do all cars have this and if they do where would it be on a 2008 Ford focus and a 2009 Ford Mustang V6
If i do this on my truck all the frion is gonna escape from there?? Then i have to recharge it?
Duu
I replaced my ac pump after failure and was wondering if I should take that orifice tube out before flushing ?
Could this be the cause of why one side of my AC is 100psi and the other side is 0?
That sounds like the low side is leaking and the high side is either also leaking, or it's bleeding through the compressor. In either case it's on its way to 0.
@@salsuginusrex5196 Exactly right high side leak at the valve stem, $5 part fixed it, you must’ve done this before
Did you have to depressurize the AC System before?
Yes
@judsonfarley406 How do we do that ?
@@Airon79 For older trucks I believe they started with R-12 and around 1993 switched to R-134a and then changed to R1234yf in 2021. You can still buy R-134a. It's not good to release R-134a to the atmosphere. Best to buy all the parts, find a/c shop that doesn't have a problem installing your parts. They can do a system flush first, add proper a/c oil, install all your parts, evacuate the system and add correct amount of refrigerant. They have all the tools and equipment to do the job.
Of course 😂
Anyone who has a question, first try watching the video
IF ANY ORFICE TUBE LOOKS LIKE THIS THE COMPRESSER HAS/IS FAILING/D THE ENTIRE SYSTEM IS FULL OF METAL(WILL NEED A REPLACEMENT KIT)
Amen to your comment. I pulled an orifice that looked similar, put a new one in and was putting in my third can when the pump locked up.
Is there a chance of a leak in that connector? I have a Mustang and I performed a gas leak test on it and in that connector it activates announcing the presence of a gas leak.
That's a liquid line... if it had something escaping you would know.
👍👍
I have this set it is not working for me
What model truck is this?
2003 Ford F350. He said it at beginning
Nice job
I need the tool to dusconnect the line.. what is the name of this tool ?
Appreciate giving me an ebay link
There's a good one on Amazon from Lisle tools, it's a kit I bought years ago to disconnect fuel lines etc
Lisle 39400. Great set for $15.
I flush the ac components that are not replced to get all the shards out of the system , If not it will do the same thing again
What year?
2003