I know this is kind of old, but yes, active foam smells great. My car actually smelled great for about 3 days. How do their APC’s smell, if you have tried them?
Bilt Hamber Touchless or Autofoam is amazing. In fact all BH products are very high quality. It’s expensive in the US because of shipping costs but in the UK it’s fantastic value as well as being a phenomenal product. Good to see our North American friends getting to grips with PIR too - far more accurate way of measuring chemicals through your sprayer.
@@gs_mick Correct, my point is that if a snow foam is as highly alkaline as an APC there's no need to have both products. Surfex and Autofoam probably perform very similarly at the same dilution
Good data!! One thing, here in Florida, the car is hot. We rinse with water first to cool the surface prior to foam pre-wash. Otherwise, it bakes and dries too much. 😮
My thing is I’m starting out. I’ve seen tons of these videos love the content very informative. I’ve notice most you guys have 100’s of different types of everything it is overwhelming to see that and is confusing which soaps to buy and stick with without spending money on products that all work the same.
Same here man it’s tough deciding what to choose my personal choices that work for me is just meguiers gold car wash, works great and cheap and for wheel cleaner adams wheel and tire cleaner does great and I actually use Josh’s recommendation for technicians choice ceramic detailer diluted for after cleaning inside nd not diluted for exterior. Nd for tar nd bugs goo gone is amazing I will continue to test different products as I go along I hope this helps and the luck to ya 💯
All you need is a soap, apc, and a dressing that works for exterior and interior like chemical guys VRP. Apc I recommend is green star by Koch chemie, very dilutable and strong
This video just sold KC a 5-litre of active foam, and an MJJC foam cannon! Being able to loosen up bird droppings and bug brains is going to make my life a lot easier, and reduce the risk of scratching up the car!
Another episode with good product suggestions, but I really appreciate the use advice. Technique goes a long way in improving the efficacy of products.
@Josh When I first used Wash Chem 50, I would use it as you demonstrated in the video with out pre-rinsing first, but then I quickly realized that it would often leave a film of dirt behind, making it difficult to dry the vehicle with a blower. I would often have to towel dry the vehicle instead in order to remove the residue, hence why I now perform a pre-soak first then use the pre-wash soap, followed by Mirrior Finish Polishes " Touchless " spray on ceramic paint sealant to perform a completely touchless wash and protection.
AmaIng stuff Josh. Thank u again. I use the gyeon soap over n over. Feel in love with the lubrication it has . Amazing stuff. This is my go to soap. Might have to try that gentle foam from Koch-Chemie ..🔥🔥
Great video but I like to use 3oz meguiars hyper wash and 3oz super clean in my Mjjc for very dirty car as a prewash....works great and foams amazingly.
Thanks for this! I had asked in a previous video about Wash Chems since it seems to be used a lot for cleaning semis without touching the cab. One of these products might be very useful for a quick wash when I have a moment of dry weather in between rain in the PacNW.
Looks like Bilt Hamber Touchless is the beat pre wash at the moment. I just used CarPro Lift this weekend on 2 cars for the pre wash and it removed 0 dirt. lol. I was like What the heck. There was no dirt or anything on the suds that came off the car. Really disappointing to be honest. I used deionized water as well with the MJJC foam cannon.
One important thing about panel impact ratio (PIR) is that it doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the PH, which honestly is making this a bit more confusing than it really is IMO. I'm not familiar enough with Autofoam to know what the PH is supposed to be at a 4% PIR, but there are definitely some soaps that will be at a non neutral pH when using the recommend PIR. It's actually a much easier thing than it seems and an easy way to think about it or remember it is this: The Pir is nothing more than the percentage of soap that should be in the mixture coming out of the foam cannon and impacting the panel. This is different than a dilution because a dilution only accounts for the solution in the foam cannon container itself and doesn't take into account the water actually flowing through the hose. The most complicated part is the initial measurement for your pressure washer and foam cannon (because every pressure washer and foam cannon are different). TLDR: The PIR isn't inherently related to pH. Autofoam may have been formulated to have a neutral pH at a 4% PIR, or it could just coincidentally be that, but that's just that product and not a rule. A product that recommends a 4% PIR just means that the amount of product you use should be the amount that allows the water in your cannon + amount of water coming out of the pressure washer to make up 96% of the total solution impacting the panel.
At 4% your washing your car with a 10.5 pH product if your water is neutral of course. That's the equivalent to using any high alkaline APC. Bilt hambers not doing anything different to an APC, any high alkaline APC will clean just as well.
@@KiranPatel-fk1pg While you can somewhat calculate the pH change of a solution based on how much it's been diluted, chemistry is rarely that simple and this assumption shouldn't be made either. Additionally, Bilt Hamber actually does take some different and interesting approaches with their formulas and saying Autofoam is just about the same thing as any regular high alkaline APC would be a bit disingenuous imo. They try to stay away from making things super caustic and just using lots of alkaline salts. Autofoam for example is formulated to be heavy on surfactants to allow it to really wet the dirt out and separate it from the surface. Their other pre-wash foam is formulated around organic sugars to break down the dirt and grime and get it off the surface, and it also has corrosion inhibitors in it's formula.
@@muchachogrande2019 The corrosion inhibitors are there to mitigate the corrosive nature of the product. But that doesn't prevent all the issues as those product is still speeding up degradation of plastics and rubber trim.
@@KiranPatel-fk1pg The point is that at the end of the day Autofoam is a bit different from a standard APC, and even within their own product line they have two snow foam pre-washes with a different approach and different formulation intended for differing purposes. I tend to agree that for the most part if you're using a cheap high alkaline soap as a pre-wash snow foam , you're not going to have a lot of difference between that and a higher foaming high pH APC, but it's not a hard fast rule and there's enough difference in the products of reputable companies that it's not really accurate to make generalizations. High pH is high pH, but how you get there and things you account for in the formulation to offset other factors are hardly universal, otherwise we wouldn't have this industry.
I add 2 to 3 oz of SuperClean to any soap in foam cannon to boost cleaning especially on dirtier lower half of vehicle really softwns up the tar and bugs so eliminates another step 👍. i also refoam with pure soap right after contact wash. then rinse extra
That is what I used to do. But that makes it very potent solution if you are mixing soap with super clean because dilution ratio changes that way. After research and reading up, it is much better to just use about 2 oz of SCD or Meguiar's APC (preferable) in foam cannon to use it as a prewash (given that you are not using snow foams like mentioned above). You rinse after 30 sec to 2-3 minutes (depending on your situation). Use pH neutral soap to foam it again and in your bucket to perform the contact wash. Having said that, leave scd for engine bay, tires, rubber mats, interior cleaning (i use 1:10 or 1:15 dilution).
ya. I don't use a ton in my cannon and don't use it as a contac washt but just prefoam wash to loosen grime on filthy neglected cars. anything nice that has wax sealant or coating I won't use it. but those cars that c haven't been cleaned in years, it saves a ton of time and sweat. bought some ph test strips and my mix is ph 9 so it's not terribly strong but still effective.
Kcx foams are 1:50 to 1:100 at the end of your gun not in diluted in your bottle. Which is 1:5 or 1:10 in reality. 50 to 100 ml in your typical 1L foam bottle. Half a oz youre really not doing anything, you're likely 1:1000 because generally your foam gun will dilute your solution 1:10 again.
You, my friend, are the best! I have been looking for dilution ratio for KC Active foam for the longest time. It is very UNCLEAR based on information it provides on the label. I tried looking whether dosing pumps and cannons are same or different. LOL. I was thinking of keeping it 1:10 in my foam cannon which will be about 3floz/ ~100 ml of KC Active foam in a 34floz/~1000 ml bottle, but I was very unsure on using it and not destroy my car surface in the process! Thanks for your input.
O.K., I don't want to argue with you over foam, however, if you call that "a ton of dirt" on that Jag, I just can't agree with you. That's not even a quarter ton of dirt. It would most likely come off with just a pressure washer.
sweet video bro thanks! i mainly use rinseless but i have been looking to go back to pre foaming i just gave up on it because a balanced soap doesn't do much as a pre, and i never dug too deep to find a good dedicated pre soap, sounds like super foam is a winner at just pennies a car how could you ever go wrong! in a pinch i just throw some apc in a cannon and while better than a balanced soap i would guess super foam would be much better and obviously cheaper! thanks man!
I just wanted to know if I dilute the stuff out of the gallon jug or not. How about just some basic info for my first wash with my new Greenworks Pro 2300 and the Greenworks supplied foam cannon? I'm 79 and I don't want to get into the car detailing business!
I don’t understand.. why use a higher ph soap if it’s going to end up finally touching the panel at ph neutral? Why not just use a ph neutral soap to start with?
Hey, Josh! Great video. Are these products something you’d recommend for people who live in cold climates and regularly deal with road salt in the winter? I find using Adam’s mega foam on a weekly wash is perfect, but in this Chicago area the salt can really do a number on my paint. Do you think a pre wash with active foam followed by a contact wash with my Adam’s would be a good idea specifically for winter time salt heavy washes? Loved your videos. Long time subscriber!
I live in Nebraska and get a lot of salt on my car honestly you should check out Oberk APS it is made from organic plant compounds that naturally attacks salt 😁👍🏻
Only use ph neutral soaps. I personally use McGuire's gold class or Car pro Reset. Wash chem will definitely start eating away at it if you use it at the recommend ratio 😊
Add a metering tip inside your foam cannon pick up tube. You can run straight soap, choose the tip fitting your final dilution choice, and never have to worry about dilution ratios internally again. It would certainly modernize this discussion, is more efficient when operating mobile, and leaves that PIR testing comparison of swinging before/after PH behind because there is far less loss of PH cleaning power in the dilution outcome.
I agree and disagree with you in the same breath. With a high GPM pressure washer I reccomed this highly, especially if you want the maximum amount of foam, but it is slightly different in the case of pre-wash/stripping soaps. Because of it's high PH Levels, if pre-wash soap are not diluted as directed and the concentration is too strong, you run the risk of staining the paint/clear coat or burning/fading the trim or rubber on the vehicle. This happened to me in the past when I just started using Wash Chem 50. Pro Tip: When mixed at a high concentration, I find that Wash Chem 50 removes browning better that an acidic Wheel Cleaner, and lifts oxidation completely from a oxidized headlight without wet sanding and polishing.
Hey Josh - Older video, but would you say active foam is going to ruin some of today's more modern sio2 sealants? Seeing as it come out neutral after being foamed on if you stick to a 5:1 ration i would think it'll be not big deal.
Curious... What's the difference in using active foam and diluting, let's say 1:100, to get it somewhat pH neutral vs using super foam and diluting 1:150 (or whatever the math is to be similar to the active foam in regards to the 12 and 9 pH levels)? Is the purpose of diluting to become pH neutral? If so, why not use super foam and dilute more, and still get more washes out of your jug. Am I thinking about this wrong? Now that I'm thinking about it, this can be a topic for a new video. Just saying... Lol.
Thanks for the post Josh what product would you recommend for areas that receive snow as well as ice and snow melting chemicals on roadways that build up on vehicles?
Sometimes inexpensive isn't always best ... u get what u pay for sometimes. Remember that. .. I recommend using rinseless from mckees for ur pre rinse. Then gyeon soap to foam it up. ...both are great ... I like doing a prerinse with mckees rinseless first before any hosing down or using soap. Helps break down the dirty before ur contact wash.
What is your recommended ratio for Bilt Hamber touchles in ounces. I use 30 oz of destilled water and 2 oz product. I wait 4-5 min and then I rinse it. Haven’t had any problems with this ratio. 🤷🏽♂️
I'd would love to see how these test when using hot water to apply the pre-wash. If I'm remember correctly 120 or 130 degree water change the acidic or is it alkaline PH level by what I believe to be 10 times, that should eat paint coatings & maybe the paint too.
Or it may not change their levels, but how they react. Remember sseing it a video on YT called something like "Why we wash with hot water". Might have be done by Dan from America Test Kitchen.
Are these safe to use on 3M Pro series PPF? I have been washing our vehicles using 2 bucket method for years/decades but am about to purchase my first pressure washer, other equipment and upgrades as seen on YT by you and two others. Thank you!
Problem with higher PH soap is that it will strip waxes from your car. For this reason I specifically don't use higher PH in order to retain the protective coatings I apply every 6 months. Griots Garage makes a good foaming soap that is specifically designed to remove dirt while not stripping any sort of protection you have on your car. Works well for me
Yep, not to mention high alkalines naturally are corrosive. They'd also dry out rubber seals over time and plastics. I like Active foam personally, ph9.5 but comes down to neutral when diluted correctly and has more kick than a neutral in concentration soap.
hey josh love all your videos btw. Just a quick question about the koch chemie nano magic. When you used the nano magic did it leave any chemical spots or water spots especially on the window. I always have bad experience with products like those that have water sheeting or beading effect.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 76 | คู่เอก "ผึ้งหลวง vs สมิงดำ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9SBshmGQOIM/mqdefault.jpg)
Can confirm: Active foam smells incredible. Almost made me want to use some as body wash… starting to fall in love with KC products!
I know this is kind of old, but yes, active foam smells great. My car actually smelled great for about 3 days. How do their APC’s smell, if you have tried them?
@@mikez6683Their apc which is Green Star smells almost like nothing or a very light “green” odor if that makes sense.
@@DownloaderVideo thanks. I went ahead and picked up a liter of the Pol and green. Nice stuff.
Bilt Hamber Touchless or Autofoam is amazing. In fact all BH products are very high quality. It’s expensive in the US because of shipping costs but in the UK it’s fantastic value as well as being a phenomenal product. Good to see our North American friends getting to grips with PIR too - far more accurate way of measuring chemicals through your sprayer.
It's a high alkaline APC...
@@KiranPatel-fk1pg Surfex HD is. Not Touchless or Autofoam (although they are high alkaline)
@@gs_mick Correct, my point is that if a snow foam is as highly alkaline as an APC there's no need to have both products. Surfex and Autofoam probably perform very similarly at the same dilution
Also PIR is a trick companies use to distract you from just how much product you’ll be using without a 5HP pressure washer.
Are the high ph auto foams safe for frequent weekly use ?
Good data!! One thing, here in Florida, the car is hot. We rinse with water first to cool the surface prior to foam pre-wash. Otherwise, it bakes and dries too much. 😮
My thing is I’m starting out. I’ve seen tons of these videos love the content very informative. I’ve notice most you guys have 100’s of different types of everything it is overwhelming to see that and is confusing which soaps to buy and stick with without spending money on products that all work the same.
Same here man it’s tough deciding what to choose my personal choices that work for me is just meguiers gold car wash, works great and cheap and for wheel cleaner adams wheel and tire cleaner does great and I actually use Josh’s recommendation for technicians choice ceramic detailer diluted for after cleaning inside nd not diluted for exterior. Nd for tar nd bugs goo gone is amazing I will continue to test different products as I go along I hope this helps and the luck to ya 💯
My God! I use Dish detergent It works great, It all depends how good you scrub😂
All you need is a soap, apc, and a dressing that works for exterior and interior like chemical guys VRP. Apc I recommend is green star by Koch chemie, very dilutable and strong
@@adanpachecorodriguez1069 dish soap will remove wax over time fyi
This video just sold KC a 5-litre of active foam, and an MJJC foam cannon! Being able to loosen up bird droppings and bug brains is going to make my life a lot easier, and reduce the risk of scratching up the car!
I discovered Koch chemie last fall and immediately fell in love with there products!
Damn right! It's quality at it's best! I use the brand since + ten years.
@@laurapalmerTDGE Nice, what is your favorite product out of all they have to offer? Any experience with the brand sonax?
Another episode with good product suggestions, but I really appreciate the use advice. Technique goes a long way in improving the efficacy of products.
I'm so glad you did this one! I'm going to need a good quality soap after this Winter!
Try gyeon soap. Lubrication is amazing. Won't be disappointed for sure.
I used Super foam for the first time the other day. It was the first wash after winter with my truck covered in salt, I was very impressed by it.
Wash Chem is some strong stuff, the foam on my tires turn brown as if I sprayed a straight tire cleaner/degreaser on them.
Another great video and you are so right, that Station Wagon Jag is 🔥🔥.
I came in to this video just to know what kind of soap I need to used to wash my car…11mins later, I became a Chemist !! 😂
Add in 3D Super Pre soak, it packs a punch
Thanks man this was the only source I could find online with experienced suggestions on KC AF dilution ratio
@Josh When I first used Wash Chem 50, I would use it as you demonstrated in the video with out pre-rinsing first, but then I quickly realized that it would often leave a film of dirt behind, making it difficult to dry the vehicle with a blower. I would often have to towel dry the vehicle instead in order to remove the residue, hence why I now perform a pre-soak first then use the pre-wash soap, followed by Mirrior Finish Polishes " Touchless " spray on ceramic paint sealant to perform a completely touchless wash and protection.
Well if you want it ph neutral by the time it hits the panel none of these are necessary they all clean well because they’re high alkaline
Which would you say is the best budget friendly one?
Your the best teacher ever bro thank you for all your videos
Can you do a video of soaps you can get at your local auto parts store?
another great review got Koch Chemie ACTIVE FOAM (3rd item bought after seeing your review)
Really appreciate the info you share and your efforts. Cheers!
which one would you say is your go to pre wash from these?
One point is that high alkaline is normally considered corrosive and caustic which I assume is why Koch Chemie put rust inhibitors in GS
I love the cleaning soap auto Fanatic 007 foam. The stuff is awesome.
AmaIng stuff Josh. Thank u again. I use the gyeon soap over n over. Feel in love with the lubrication it has . Amazing stuff. This is my go to soap. Might have to try that gentle foam from Koch-Chemie ..🔥🔥
That wagon is cool, it looks serious. i have a wagon, i need something for my surfboards, i have had pick up trucks but i love my Outback.
Great video but I like to use 3oz meguiars hyper wash and 3oz super clean in my Mjjc for very dirty car as a prewash....works great and foams amazingly.
Smart man!
I just did some pH testing this week too & posted my findings on my channel. Some surprises for sure!
Thanks for this! I had asked in a previous video about Wash Chems since it seems to be used a lot for cleaning semis without touching the cab. One of these products might be very useful for a quick wash when I have a moment of dry weather in between rain in the PacNW.
Looks like Bilt Hamber Touchless is the beat pre wash at the moment.
I just used CarPro Lift this weekend on 2 cars for the pre wash and it removed 0 dirt. lol. I was like What the heck. There was no dirt or anything on the suds that came off the car. Really disappointing to be honest. I used deionized water as well with the MJJC foam cannon.
Best of Adam's polishes and 3D
One important thing about panel impact ratio (PIR) is that it doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the PH, which honestly is making this a bit more confusing than it really is IMO. I'm not familiar enough with Autofoam to know what the PH is supposed to be at a 4% PIR, but there are definitely some soaps that will be at a non neutral pH when using the recommend PIR.
It's actually a much easier thing than it seems and an easy way to think about it or remember it is this: The Pir is nothing more than the percentage of soap that should be in the mixture coming out of the foam cannon and impacting the panel. This is different than a dilution because a dilution only accounts for the solution in the foam cannon container itself and doesn't take into account the water actually flowing through the hose.
The most complicated part is the initial measurement for your pressure washer and foam cannon (because every pressure washer and foam cannon are different).
TLDR: The PIR isn't inherently related to pH. Autofoam may have been formulated to have a neutral pH at a 4% PIR, or it could just coincidentally be that, but that's just that product and not a rule. A product that recommends a 4% PIR just means that the amount of product you use should be the amount that allows the water in your cannon + amount of water coming out of the pressure washer to make up 96% of the total solution impacting the panel.
At 4% your washing your car with a 10.5 pH product if your water is neutral of course. That's the equivalent to using any high alkaline APC. Bilt hambers not doing anything different to an APC, any high alkaline APC will clean just as well.
@@KiranPatel-fk1pg While you can somewhat calculate the pH change of a solution based on how much it's been diluted, chemistry is rarely that simple and this assumption shouldn't be made either.
Additionally, Bilt Hamber actually does take some different and interesting approaches with their formulas and saying Autofoam is just about the same thing as any regular high alkaline APC would be a bit disingenuous imo. They try to stay away from making things super caustic and just using lots of alkaline salts. Autofoam for example is formulated to be heavy on surfactants to allow it to really wet the dirt out and separate it from the surface. Their other pre-wash foam is formulated around organic sugars to break down the dirt and grime and get it off the surface, and it also has corrosion inhibitors in it's formula.
@@muchachogrande2019 High Alkalines by nature are considered corrosive and caustic, based on the pH alone.
@@muchachogrande2019 The corrosion inhibitors are there to mitigate the corrosive nature of the product. But that doesn't prevent all the issues as those product is still speeding up degradation of plastics and rubber trim.
@@KiranPatel-fk1pg The point is that at the end of the day Autofoam is a bit different from a standard APC, and even within their own product line they have two snow foam pre-washes with a different approach and different formulation intended for differing purposes.
I tend to agree that for the most part if you're using a cheap high alkaline soap as a pre-wash snow foam , you're not going to have a lot of difference between that and a higher foaming high pH APC, but it's not a hard fast rule and there's enough difference in the products of reputable companies that it's not really accurate to make generalizations.
High pH is high pH, but how you get there and things you account for in the formulation to offset other factors are hardly universal, otherwise we wouldn't have this industry.
I have been wanting to try 3d presoak. Bilthamber auto foam is my got to. Great video.
Dawn and simple green mix
I just love your videos makes me sleep easier at night😅
I add 2 to 3 oz of SuperClean to any soap in foam cannon to boost cleaning especially on dirtier lower half of vehicle really softwns up the tar and bugs so eliminates another step 👍. i also refoam with pure soap right after contact wash. then rinse extra
That is what I used to do. But that makes it very potent solution if you are mixing soap with super clean because dilution ratio changes that way. After research and reading up, it is much better to just use about 2 oz of SCD or Meguiar's APC (preferable) in foam cannon to use it as a prewash (given that you are not using snow foams like mentioned above). You rinse after 30 sec to 2-3 minutes (depending on your situation). Use pH neutral soap to foam it again and in your bucket to perform the contact wash. Having said that, leave scd for engine bay, tires, rubber mats, interior cleaning (i use 1:10 or 1:15 dilution).
ya. I don't use a ton in my cannon and don't use it as a contac washt but just prefoam wash to loosen grime on filthy neglected cars. anything nice that has wax sealant or coating I won't use it. but those cars that c haven't been cleaned in years, it saves a ton of time and sweat. bought some ph test strips and my mix is ph 9 so it's not terribly strong but still effective.
Kcx foams are 1:50 to 1:100 at the end of your gun not in diluted in your bottle. Which is 1:5 or 1:10 in reality. 50 to 100 ml in your typical 1L foam bottle. Half a oz youre really not doing anything, you're likely 1:1000 because generally your foam gun will dilute your solution 1:10 again.
You, my friend, are the best! I have been looking for dilution ratio for KC Active foam for the longest time. It is very UNCLEAR based on information it provides on the label. I tried looking whether dosing pumps and cannons are same or different. LOL.
I was thinking of keeping it 1:10 in my foam cannon which will be about 3floz/ ~100 ml of KC Active foam in a 34floz/~1000 ml bottle, but I was very unsure on using it and not destroy my car surface in the process! Thanks for your input.
I was wondering what the 1:100 meant, thanks for the clarification!
O.K., I don't want to argue with you over foam, however, if you call that "a ton of dirt" on that Jag, I just can't agree with you. That's not even a quarter ton of dirt. It would most likely come off with just a pressure washer.
You should try P&S mud buster. Very good pre-treatment cleaner.
Good video Josh. Do you have a favorite APC cleaner for pre washing?
Would love to see you try and review Labocosmetica Primus 2.0 Pre-Wash. I hear that is really good stuff!
It is helpful and can save me from making a wise purchasing decision in the future!
sweet video bro thanks! i mainly use rinseless but i have been looking to go back to pre foaming i just gave up on it because a balanced soap doesn't do much as a pre, and i never dug too deep to find a good dedicated pre soap, sounds like super foam is a winner at just pennies a car how could you ever go wrong!
in a pinch i just throw some apc in a cannon and while better than a balanced soap i would guess super foam would be much better and obviously cheaper! thanks man!
How about using gsf and green star? What method would you prefer from that or active foam vs super foam?
I just wanted to know if I dilute the stuff out of the gallon jug or not.
How about just some basic info for my first wash with my new Greenworks Pro 2300 and the Greenworks supplied foam cannon?
I'm 79 and I don't want to get into the car detailing business!
I love the Koch chemie active foam!
As always great content,need to know & apply,Thank Josh!
Always learning, thanks Josh 👍😁
Thanks josh looking forward to the soap wars
Nice to see bilt hamber on your channel mate 👍🏻
Thanks Josh soaps I will look into I do wish you would do one for the best soap for hard water
How about the Turtle Wax Max Power?
Dawn Ultra grease cutting 4X dishwashing liquid 56 fl.oz. for $8.00 works great even safe for birds .............
Great video , what about carpro lift and carpro reset? Also the 3d brand has a pre wash too
Lift is a very effective pre-wash. Reset is a super-slick regular use shampoo that also cleans fantastically. Easily my favorites.
You should get your hands on do infinity Wax products 👌🏽the citrus pre wash wow.... bilt hamber it's what I like
I don’t understand.. why use a higher ph soap if it’s going to end up finally touching the panel at ph neutral? Why not just use a ph neutral soap to start with?
Hey, Josh! Great video. Are these products something you’d recommend for people who live in cold climates and regularly deal with road salt in the winter? I find using Adam’s mega foam on a weekly wash is perfect, but in this Chicago area the salt can really do a number on my paint. Do you think a pre wash with active foam followed by a contact wash with my Adam’s would be a good idea specifically for winter time salt heavy washes? Loved your videos. Long time subscriber!
I live in Nebraska and get a lot of salt on my car honestly you should check out Oberk APS it is made from organic plant compounds that naturally attacks salt 😁👍🏻
can you use these for easy maintenance on ceramic coatings? or will this strip them?
Only use ph neutral soaps. I personally use McGuire's gold class or Car pro Reset. Wash chem will definitely start eating away at it if you use it at the recommend ratio 😊
Add a metering tip inside your foam cannon pick up tube. You can run straight soap, choose the tip fitting your final dilution choice, and never have to worry about dilution ratios internally again. It would certainly modernize this discussion, is more efficient when operating mobile, and leaves that PIR testing comparison of swinging before/after PH behind because there is far less loss of PH cleaning power in the dilution outcome.
Griots boss foam cannon has a metering insert. You can also add the ball and insert on other cannons afaik.
I agree and disagree with you in the same breath. With a high GPM pressure washer I reccomed this highly, especially if you want the maximum amount of foam, but it is slightly different in the case of pre-wash/stripping soaps. Because of it's high PH Levels, if pre-wash soap are not diluted as directed and the concentration is too strong, you run the risk of staining the paint/clear coat or burning/fading the trim or rubber on the vehicle. This happened to me in the past when I just started using Wash Chem 50.
Pro Tip: When mixed at a high concentration, I find that Wash Chem 50 removes browning better that an acidic Wheel Cleaner, and lifts oxidation completely from a oxidized headlight without wet sanding and polishing.
Hey Josh - Older video, but would you say active foam is going to ruin some of today's more modern sio2 sealants? Seeing as it come out neutral after being foamed on if you stick to a 5:1 ration i would think it'll be not big deal.
So with Active Foam, do you go back and foam it again for your contact wash or are you using a different soap for the contact wash?
Curious... What's the difference in using active foam and diluting, let's say 1:100, to get it somewhat pH neutral vs using super foam and diluting 1:150 (or whatever the math is to be similar to the active foam in regards to the 12 and 9 pH levels)?
Is the purpose of diluting to become pH neutral? If so, why not use super foam and dilute more, and still get more washes out of your jug. Am I thinking about this wrong?
Now that I'm thinking about it, this can be a topic for a new video. Just saying... Lol.
Can u use those soaps for prep washing to get old coatings or waxes off ur car?
Awesome video. It was very informative. Keep it up👍
Thanks for the video. But why no after pictures of the Jag?
should i wash my car with af prewash and af for contact every wash? is it safe?
Thnx, I learned alot today.
i definitely need a test with bilt hamber vs gyeon foam. i know bilt is top notch, but before i drop 60-75$ id like to pick the best
Thanks for the post
Josh what product would you recommend for areas that receive snow as well as ice and snow melting chemicals on roadways that build up on vehicles?
Awesome video ! Looking for something a little bit more harsh for big trucks and trailers , to put in my foam Canon ??
what pressure washer do you use??
We use fewer products with Shine Pro 2 in 1
Amazing video as always Josh 👏🏻. Please review the Koch Chemie NanoMagic Shampoo. Would love to see that😁
I second that
Great product for already coated vehicles in my opinion. Definitely not a great cleaner alone.
Will high ph level cleaners strip wax or ceramic coatings?
What is your dilution for active foam in a foam cannon?
Your videos are AWESOME 👍👍
Josh if you get the chance get hold of Yumcars shampoo or Snowfoam amazing stuff not cheap but quality stuff might be a bit pricey in 🇺🇸
Would you recommend using the turtle wax max power ”xtreme” (9oz) for a really dirty car since it’s inexpensive and very easy to find at Walmart?
Sometimes inexpensive isn't always best ... u get what u pay for sometimes. Remember that. .. I recommend using rinseless from mckees for ur pre rinse. Then gyeon soap to foam it up. ...both are great ... I like doing a prerinse with mckees rinseless first before any hosing down or using soap. Helps break down the dirty before ur contact wash.
Can you leave pre-wash soap in your foam cannon until the next day like to not waste it if you’re not using it all at once??
Josh try PURE:EST | A2 Alkaline Degreaser. it's way better than wash chems pro 100.
Whose products are hanging on the wall behind him? I don't recognize the label.
Can you explain why PH is an issue? I've only recently started hearing its a point of interest during pre-wash
Hi, have you ever or would you ever try Sun Joe SPX-FCS1G Premium Snow Foam Cannon Pineapple Pressure Washer Rated Car Wash Soap and Cleaner, 1-Gallon
Is super foam safe on costings for pre soak only
What is your recommended ratio for Bilt Hamber touchles in ounces. I use 30 oz of destilled water and 2 oz product. I wait 4-5 min and then I rinse it. Haven’t had any problems with this ratio. 🤷🏽♂️
Checking in brother
Where does Carpro Lift fall in the pre-rinse soaps?
I am really curious about chem-x products I want to know what you think about stars and stripes.
I'd would love to see how these test when using hot water to apply the pre-wash. If I'm remember correctly 120 or 130 degree water change the acidic or is it alkaline PH level by what I believe to be 10 times, that should eat paint coatings & maybe the paint too.
Or it may not change their levels, but how they react. Remember sseing it a video on YT called something like "Why we wash with hot water". Might have be done by Dan from America Test Kitchen.
Great video. Can I simply add some Green Star to an existing foam I have? Or even just green Star & water?
Yea I don’t see any issue with that
Do you have any tips for PPF care? I’m doing front end ppf and ceramic
Rinseless wash always works so there's less contact on the paint. Gyeon soap is also safe for ppf and ceramic coating. .
How are about the MJJC foam? Does it deserve including in the foam comparision?
Are these safe to use on 3M Pro series PPF? I have been washing our vehicles using 2 bucket method for years/decades but am about to purchase my first pressure washer, other equipment and upgrades as seen on YT by you and two others. Thank you!
Which is better in your option on Active Foam vs Super Foam?
Have you ever tried chem-x products? I’m curious what your thought are on there two-step foam Stars and Stripes
Great Video
Can you review the 3d nano pails super soap and super pre wash?
Problem with higher PH soap is that it will strip waxes from your car. For this reason I specifically don't use higher PH in order to retain the protective coatings I apply every 6 months. Griots Garage makes a good foaming soap that is specifically designed to remove dirt while not stripping any sort of protection you have on your car. Works well for me
Yep, not to mention high alkalines naturally are corrosive. They'd also dry out rubber seals over time and plastics. I like Active foam personally, ph9.5 but comes down to neutral when diluted correctly and has more kick than a neutral in concentration soap.
@@KiranPatel-fk1pgdoes it foam up nice?
@@ballislife2351 Very thick, thickest foam I've used.
You'll never completely remove all of the road film with pH neutral soaps.
Griot's Surface Wash? Your pressure washer is doing most of the work with that product. Just grab their ceramic spray and use their prep wash
May be a dumb question, but whats the difference between these and the foam for your foam cannon like a Mr. Pink?
what do u think about adding a apc to a ph neutral soap for pre washing?
I would save the pH neutral and add an ounce or half ounce of APC.
hey josh love all your videos btw. Just a quick question about the koch chemie nano magic. When you used the nano magic did it leave any chemical spots or water spots especially on the window. I always have bad experience with products like those that have water sheeting or beading effect.