Some service manuals specifically say to loosen the front nut with the bike in neutral to avoid transmission damage. I always jam some wood in between the sprocket and frame to keep it still. Also, use a digital caliper to measure the outer plates of the chain and compare to your master link when riveting your new chain to ensure you have riveted enough and not too much.
@@2025944 I just sat on the bike and put my foot on the brake, managed to undo the nut with a long breaker bar with my left arm, tightened it the same way.
doesn't the master link come with the chain? Also if the manuals recommend this, I am assuming they make a specific part to jam the sprocket. Any idea what this is called? (unless if they recommend to use wood, I just don't have any)
i just love! absolutely adore this series... can't get enough of it, I'm not very mechanically minded... or never was really but lately i've had a strange thirst and with the help of this series i can do some bits now! thanks a lot man, keep up the good work regards from the UK
I'm in Australia and I hit a wom at at 90 kilometres on the left peg and had to replace that and the gear lever and now I can't stop 😂 This series definitely helps with some stuff I've always been scared to do my own work but this makes me confident
Only thing worth adding is that there is usually a crush washer you need to flatten on the front sprocket before removing the front sprocket nut. Great video!
Another tip, buy extra master links! you don't want to ruin a master clip and to make the trip or order one online. Not all master links are the same either. Tolerances vary across the board. Great job Ari! I would be too scared to rivet the master link while it rests on the sprocket for fear of damaging a tooth or 2 on the sprocket.
It's also a good idea to loosen the rear sprocket mounting nuts (if you can get at them) before raising the rear wheel, the same way that you did the front one. Sometimes they can be really hard to loosen on the bench, while trying to hold the wheel.
I'll be honest, I learned without instruction to pop a pin to remove a chain without a grinder. I've never thrown a new one on, but I sure was waiting for that orange mallet to make an entrance. Thanks for the upload bud 🤙🏼
so glad you guys had a video for this. links on my chain are starting to get stiff and I think I may need to change it soon. only got 15,000 miles on it maybe I need to take better care of my chains
Just a tip from someone who did it for a lot of years....why LIFT to undo the nut....stand on the other side and push DOWN....much easier..right?....wheel nuts....etc all the same rule....don't lift to tighten or loosen....push DOWN....no matter which one you need to do Cheers from Canada North from an old VW mechanic
Great tip Wayne but most motorcycles have fairings in the way in front to be able to push it down. I would rather not risk accidentally hitting and cracking my body over a little comfort.
Nice. I wish I watched this video before I installed my chain and sprockets, LOL You forgot to mention that you need to press the plates of the rivet link together using that tool. I found that finicky and had to enlist the help of a friend as it required a lot of oomph to press the rivet link together so that the rivet pins stick out far enough. Also to flare the rivets, you typically turn the Motion Pro 3/4 to a full turn. You don't want to over-flare the rivet.
I am an actual aircraft mechanic and must say this makes everything so simple fore the home mechanics only I won't hit the axel with a hammer just put some lube on it keep op the good work man
Definitely take your time with it. Tried to adjust it myself once, was slightly off, and I could definitely feel it, the tire was wearing all weird. Took it up to a shop because I was do for a new rear tire anyway, and they gave me the bike back with the alignment off, and ZERO chain slack. Safe to say I was super anal about tightening both sides at the same exact rate, and it worked out. If I can do it, anyone can, just takes the extra time for an untrained eye/mechanic
@@jeffsalmons927 I have been on the road for just 6 years, but every single shop I have come across whether it’s for the car or bike, has been an absolute nightmare. All of this time, and the only shop I’ve found that I like, is some dude who used to race, that does work out of his garage. Super knowledgeable, actually gives a damn about you, and will give you tips all day long. Sad how you can’t trust most shops to give you their honesty and do good work.
I watched this so many times before I did mine that by the time I got to it I didn't need the video at all. Very satisfying to get the work done on your own.
9 ปีที่แล้ว +9
The best channel of the world!!! Im brazilian and folow you!
Notice the axel is inserted into the left side of the swingarm first. So when you tighten the axel nut clockwise towards the front of the bike the chain tension adjustment bolt will stop the wheel from moving forward.
Right, 3 points. 1. I've seen split links used on 250cc, 60 horse power crossers with never one single failure so rivetted joins seem pointless as opposed to clip links. 2. If you do use a rivet link the old one can be removed by first de heading the old pins with a £25 cordless grinder which prob you already have then pushing it out. The new plate pressed on with a g clamp. 3. I finally invested in a bike lift last year and honestly cannot over-stress how much they'll changed your life.
Could you guys do a video on sprocket set ups? Like the pros and cons to adding and subtracting teeth on the front and rear sprockets? Also what combination works best for different situations, and whether or not it's worth changing your stock set up?
How about using a new locking plate for the front sprocket? Usually they don't include them in the chain kit, so you have to buy that yourself. Great channel by the way, lots of usefull info!
1:20 wait is the sprocket threaded in the same direction it turns? (ie. sprocket turns counter-clockwise to turn the tire, yet the guy turned the sprocket in the same direction to unthread it) Why don't they counter-thread it? Also, should the bike be in neutral for this? While using the breaker bar, what if the brake doesn't hold; will that mess up the engine since there could be a lot of sudden torque?
2:47 to 2:57. Don't forget to clean ( using brake cleaner spray and some cloth..perhaps arguably consider steel wool) and wipe it smooth and clean with a fresh clean soft cloth and then apply some high temp grease of antiseize compound ( often found in grey or silver color) to the axle itself
I assume if the chain has the proper number of links, you adjust the chain tension bolts as required? What I'm asking is, where will the axle alignment indication markers be once a new chain is installed? Forward or middle marker?
Can you go into the riveting part a big more please, I have just done this exact thing, I had to borrow a real professional riveter as the cheap bit of crap I had was not up to it. Also can you explain why chain lube is needed when the links are full of new grease. Love the show, thanks
This video is great, thanks. But I can’t find a video by you for front sprocket swap procedure. Can you make video or send link to video that already exists?
Good overall instructions, but missing the detail on putting on the new master link before mushrooming the rivets and how to measure the master link rivets mushroom.
If I have an impact wrench, do I need to put it in gear prior to removal of the front sprocket? Do I have to mark the location of the gear shift arm prior to removal?
Why did you not wind in the chain tensioners? Fit the new chain at minimum adjustment, looking at your fitment the tensioner was out quite far for the new chain.
Can you please explain why you skipped the "press" step with this tool? I'm going to be replacing my chain for the first time soon with the same Motion Pro PBR. The directions show to press the side plate before you rivet the master link. Thanks for any info!
If you are replacing the chain and rear sprocket there is no need to remove the front sprocket right? I know its recommended to replace the sprockets at the same time as the chain but just asking whether the front sprocket removal is necessary if your just replacing the chain. Thanks in advance
I read some mixed info on rivet vs clip type master links. Some people say to stay away, while others say that they are perfectly fine... Lots of manufacturers make clip types, so it must be good enough? Just went to a local store and they only sold clip types and told me that they put them on all the bikes they service and their staff bikes with no issues *shrug*
So for figuring my chain length- if I have a 120 link chain and it needs to finish at 118, do I cut 3 links off because the master link will make the 118th? Or do I cut it to 118 then add the master link regardless?
Some of those front sprocket nuts are an absolute ball ache to get off. Weirdly though; the toughest one i ever experienced was on a 125, long time ago.
I put grease on the o-rings, but I forgot to grease the pins and inside of the link holes. I haven't riveted the chain yet but I already pressed the plate on. Is there a way to remove the plate so that I can grease the pins and holes and still salvage the master link? If I can't salvage the master link, how do I get the plate off?
Clip type master links are unsafe? They're used on pretty much any offroad bike without any problems and make it 100x easier to clean the chain since you can remove it.
'...you can use a clip type but they aren't as safe and they're definitely not recommended..." Ari Henning maybe could have added that clip-type links are common on off-road motorcycles, and on lower powered street bikes. However he is working on a high powered street machine with a 530 chain. The issue is around the power being transmitted through the chain on a (high powered) street bike, especially as the chain ages and the link to link length changes. The use of a rivet is a permanent closure unlike a clip link. It is therefore much less likely to separate under use (say one of the pins on the link freezes with loss of lubricant and age...). A street bike chain is likely to be in use for multiple years and up to 30,000 miles or more with proper maintenance. Some of them will be dealing with 75 - 140 or more horsepower when under acceleration. I'd never use a clip-link on my street bikes for the reasons I've shared above. On my off-road machines? Yes, I have used clip-links. Remember that the consequences of a sudden chain failure can be rather drastic at highway speeds. I hope my comments are acceptable and answer your question respectfully.
Clipstyle master links been going for donkeys years and still are, they are tried and tested, aswell as proven. My Honda CB500Sport has always had chains installed with clip style master link.. no bother whatsoever. Although to be fair I always go for the regular heavy duty chain as opposed to O/X-ring. Maybe on an O-ring or X-ring it is different? Or perhaps 1000cc bikes and up tend to avoid clipstyle... No idea.. for me they are very reliable
i want to change the front sprocket only because im going 2 teeth down. can i just loose the rear wheel (like when you adjust the chain tension), replace the sprocket and pull the wheel back to get the right chain tension? would be easier and faster than taking everything apart
If your existing chain is already at its limit, then the distance between the rollers and the pins is now too large for your sprockets and the chain will quickly destroy those and itself. As James G said above - your chain has done its time and served its purpose. Replace it before you get hurt or get stranded somewhere. Extending the life of your chain by removing links is a very false economic decision. It's also very dangerous.
Legit... watched a guys rear lock up on the freeway and needless to say he ate shit probably because of poor chain maintenance or buying some cheap crap on Ebay. It's a couple hundred to replace everything but it's far more expensive to end up severely injured.
If you want to reuse the chain. Say for instance, different front and rear gearing for two different tracks. Do you just get a new master link every time you switch?
Is there any information we can find out there on the clip type master links? I'm wondering if they're "not as safe" why are so many top manufacturers (Including DID) manufacturing these? I just installed a new DID chain and sprockets on my 2012 FZ1 and used the clip type master link.
been running clip types for years on high powered bikes never had a problem just carry a spare clip just in case. Seen more chains stranding people all over the place with the rivet type.
That clip of you struggling with the rear axle is so comforting. Always feel like it's just me, mucking it up as usual.
Whenever I see a video from any channel with this guy in it, I know I'm in good hands.
Some service manuals specifically say to loosen the front nut with the bike in neutral to avoid transmission damage. I always jam some wood in between the sprocket and frame to keep it still. Also, use a digital caliper to measure the outer plates of the chain and compare to your master link when riveting your new chain to ensure you have riveted enough and not too much.
You could also tighten the brake down with straps or something cause I don't know about you but I never have anybody around.
@@2025944 I just sat on the bike and put my foot on the brake, managed to undo the nut with a long breaker bar with my left arm, tightened it the same way.
doesn't the master link come with the chain?
Also if the manuals recommend this, I am assuming they make a specific part to jam the sprocket. Any idea what this is called? (unless if they recommend to use wood, I just don't have any)
Zip it off with an impact gun. No need to complicate things
@@Markycarandbikestuff4 years later im following your advice. Thank you!
I usually hate when big companies make youtube channels. But got damn you guys really put work, and passion into these videos.
i just love!
absolutely adore this series...
can't get enough of it, I'm not very mechanically minded... or never was really but lately i've had a strange thirst and with the help of this series i can do some bits now!
thanks a lot man, keep up the good work
regards from the UK
That's awesome to hear. We're glad the series is helping you tackle some projects.
bad time to comment haha. limo Bizkit and korn live atm..
will go for ride tomorrow once sober :)
keep up the good work u lovely lot x
Motorcyclist Magazine
I'm in Australia and I hit a wom at at 90 kilometres on the left peg and had to replace that and the gear lever and now I can't stop 😂
This series definitely helps with some stuff I've always been scared to do my own work but this makes me confident
Only thing worth adding is that there is usually a crush washer you need to flatten on the front sprocket before removing the front sprocket nut. Great video!
Only reason why I'm here thanks do I bend it back or does it bend itself back?
@@2025944 Did you get your answer? Wondering whether or not I need to replace mine or if I can just bend it back.
@@southend26 I'd suggest just tapping one edge up on the nut after aslong as the sprockets tight enough it should be fine
@@2025944 Thanks!
Another tip, buy extra master links! you don't want to ruin a master clip and to make the trip or order one online. Not all master links are the same either. Tolerances vary across the board. Great job Ari! I would be too scared to rivet the master link while it rests on the sprocket for fear of damaging a tooth or 2 on the sprocket.
How would flaring the rivets on the sprocket damage its teeth?
@@bikersquestit won't
You guys are hands down my favorite MC channel.
It's also a good idea to loosen the rear sprocket mounting nuts (if you can get at them) before raising the rear wheel, the same way that you did the front one. Sometimes they can be really hard to loosen on the bench, while trying to hold the wheel.
Good advice
Well shit, that just happened to me. guess im wd40 those bitches for a few days
Guys. What have you done to me?
Since I watch your videos I want to learn more things day by day about bikes. Amazing channel
Awesome video after years owning my Busa's I'm finally doing my chain and sprockets myself and found this video helpful as. Cheers from Down Under
I'll be honest, I learned without instruction to pop a pin to remove a chain without a grinder. I've never thrown a new one on, but I sure was waiting for that orange mallet to make an entrance. Thanks for the upload bud 🤙🏼
On the assembly line, we called the orange mallet “The Problem Solver.l
so glad you guys had a video for this. links on my chain are starting to get stiff and I think I may need to change it soon. only got 15,000 miles on it maybe I need to take better care of my chains
Digital callipers are invaluable for measuring the crush on the master link, the chain manufacturer will tell you the diameter you want to aim for.
Honestly never thought I would use mine as much as I do, definitely worth the investment.
Great video, guys!
Just a tip from someone who did it for a lot of years....why LIFT to undo the nut....stand on the other side and push DOWN....much easier..right?....wheel nuts....etc all the same rule....don't lift to tighten or loosen....push DOWN....no matter which one you need to do
Cheers from Canada North from an old VW mechanic
Great tip Wayne but most motorcycles have fairings in the way in front to be able to push it down. I would rather not risk accidentally hitting and cracking my body over a little comfort.
If you're strong pulling is better than push
what a sweet moment when that rear axle falls into place. :)
Brief and concise. Perfect clip.
You've explained in a very well way.Ill follow up these processes
It's a great time to also do an inspection of your rear wheel bearings. I'm guessing that will be in another video Ari?
Nice. I wish I watched this video before I installed my chain and sprockets, LOL
You forgot to mention that you need to press the plates of the rivet link together using that tool. I found that finicky and had to enlist the help of a friend as it required a lot of oomph to press the rivet link together so that the rivet pins stick out far enough.
Also to flare the rivets, you typically turn the Motion Pro 3/4 to a full turn. You don't want to over-flare the rivet.
Lots of love from India. We love your work. Appreciate your videos always. :)
I am an actual aircraft mechanic and must say this makes everything so simple fore the home mechanics only I won't hit the axel with a hammer just put some lube on it keep op the good work man
An actual aircraft mechanic? As opposed to a fake one?
Fabulous video, straight to the point and well produced! Thanks
I already knew how to do this, as i did it several times, but i just like your videos!
MC Garage, this is a great series, I love it. Thanks for the videos!
Excellent videos, definitely adding to my favorites for future reference.
I'm nervous to even tighten my chain on my own bc I don't want to mess up my alignment on my back wheel ... let alone take it all off mannnnn
Hope you got past this fear... He does have another video on rear wheel alignment.
If you knew some of the idiots that work on your bike at the shop, you might have more confidence in yourself. Lol at least that's my experience.
Your rear wheel alignment is not THAT sensetive and also, what Jeff Salmons said.
Go out there and wrench something off! You'll figure it out.
Definitely take your time with it. Tried to adjust it myself once, was slightly off, and I could definitely feel it, the tire was wearing all weird. Took it up to a shop because I was do for a new rear tire anyway, and they gave me the bike back with the alignment off, and ZERO chain slack. Safe to say I was super anal about tightening both sides at the same exact rate, and it worked out. If I can do it, anyone can, just takes the extra time for an untrained eye/mechanic
@@jeffsalmons927 I have been on the road for just 6 years, but every single shop I have come across whether it’s for the car or bike, has been an absolute nightmare. All of this time, and the only shop I’ve found that I like, is some dude who used to race, that does work out of his garage. Super knowledgeable, actually gives a damn about you, and will give you tips all day long. Sad how you can’t trust most shops to give you their honesty and do good work.
Easy,straightforward instruction vid to understand. Thanks
Had this on repeat while I changed my chain and sprockets and it went off without a hitch!
Thanks so much for making this ez tutorial.
I watched this so many times before I did mine that by the time I got to it I didn't need the video at all. Very satisfying to get the work done on your own.
The best channel of the world!!!
Im brazilian and folow you!
As usual, Great instructions and GREAT instructor. Excellent!
Thanks for the cool advice it's really helpful! Keep up the good work.
Notice the axel is inserted into the left side of the swingarm first. So when you tighten the axel nut clockwise towards the front of the bike the chain tension adjustment bolt will stop the wheel from moving forward.
Great video! I have been using these videos for help repairing my moped.
Thank you so much for not making this 40 minutes
Very simple and professional video. Nice work
I like your videos. Quick and simple.
You are a great teacher. Great video
This guy is awesome! Keep up the great work!
Just want to thank you guys for uploading such good videos, I've never seen TH-cam channels cover so many DIY episodes in such clean and fun way.
Right, 3 points.
1. I've seen split links used on 250cc, 60 horse power crossers with never one single failure so rivetted joins seem pointless as opposed to clip links.
2. If you do use a rivet link the old one can be removed by first de heading the old pins with a £25 cordless grinder which prob you already have then pushing it out. The new plate pressed on with a g clamp.
3. I finally invested in a bike lift last year and honestly cannot over-stress how much they'll changed your life.
Could you guys do a video on sprocket set ups? Like the pros and cons to adding and subtracting teeth on the front and rear sprockets? Also what combination works best for different situations, and whether or not it's worth changing your stock set up?
How about using a new locking plate for the front sprocket? Usually they don't include them in the chain kit, so you have to buy that yourself.
Great channel by the way, lots of usefull info!
1:20 wait is the sprocket threaded in the same direction it turns?
(ie. sprocket turns counter-clockwise to turn the tire, yet the guy turned the sprocket in the same direction to unthread it)
Why don't they counter-thread it?
Also, should the bike be in neutral for this? While using the breaker bar, what if the brake doesn't hold; will that mess up the engine since there could be a lot of sudden torque?
2:47 to 2:57. Don't forget to clean ( using brake cleaner spray and some cloth..perhaps arguably consider steel wool) and wipe it smooth and clean with a fresh clean soft cloth and then apply some high temp grease of antiseize compound ( often found in grey or silver color) to the axle itself
Awesome video bro 👍
You guys are great !!! thanks,
and i cant wait till you get to the engine part and clutch stuff
That chain looked brand new to start!
How do I know when the chain needs to be replaced?
Great video!
I assume if the chain has the proper number of links, you adjust the chain tension bolts as required? What I'm asking is, where will the axle alignment indication markers be once a new chain is installed? Forward or middle marker?
Can you go into the riveting part a big more please, I have just done this exact thing, I had to borrow a real professional riveter as the cheap bit of crap I had was not up to it. Also can you explain why chain lube is needed when the links are full of new grease.
Love the show, thanks
Awesome video!
Question: how many miles intervals before you change your chain and sprockets? Thanks.
Check on the shape of sprockets not the miles
@@marsmarion3812 what exactly am I supposed to be looking for?
@@thescorpionchannel2263 the teeth are not supposed to have sharp tips
For any one worried or cursing themselves: avoid cracking the rivet heads, but if you do, don’t worry about it, it really is no big deal
This video is great, thanks. But I can’t find a video by you for front sprocket swap procedure. Can you make video or send link to video that already exists?
Good overall instructions, but missing the detail on putting on the new master link before mushrooming the rivets and how to measure the master link rivets mushroom.
If I have an impact wrench, do I need to put it in gear prior to removal of the front sprocket? Do I have to mark the location of the gear shift arm prior to removal?
Why did you not wind in the chain tensioners? Fit the new chain at minimum adjustment, looking at your fitment the tensioner was out quite far for the new chain.
Is the process the same for a cruiser? There are no videos on TH-cam. Thanks in advance.
Nicholas Foster Not if your cruiser uses a belt rather than a chain.
Can you please explain why you skipped the "press" step with this tool? I'm going to be replacing my chain for the first time soon with the same Motion Pro PBR. The directions show to press the side plate before you rivet the master link. Thanks for any info!
Yes I am wondering the same..
is there a video of how to remove the iron bar that's uses to adjust the chain???
Thanks for posting. Great instructions
Two questions!! Why didn’t you “bump” the chain & why didn’t you measure the space between the master link and orings??
I might as well buy a bike to get serviced in your garage. Awesome. I liking the video fort hose flashy necklaces - lol
Wish they were still making these videos.
Excellent video!! Thanks so much!
Do you count master link when you are sizing the chain? 108 so is that before or after the master link is on
Awesome, bout to do mine so perfect timing
If you are replacing the chain and rear sprocket there is no need to remove the front sprocket right? I know its recommended to replace the sprockets at the same time as the chain but just asking whether the front sprocket removal is necessary if your just replacing the chain. Thanks in advance
Great instructional content
Hi, is there not a single video on youtube that rivets a chain with a solid rivet?
I read some mixed info on rivet vs clip type master links. Some people say to stay away, while others say that they are perfectly fine... Lots of manufacturers make clip types, so it must be good enough?
Just went to a local store and they only sold clip types and told me that they put them on all the bikes they service and their staff bikes with no issues *shrug*
Is it 'press-fit clip' type one?
So for figuring my chain length- if I have a 120 link chain and it needs to finish at 118, do I cut 3 links off because the master link will make the 118th? Or do I cut it to 118 then add the master link regardless?
Some of those front sprocket nuts are an absolute ball ache to get off. Weirdly though; the toughest one i ever experienced was on a 125, long time ago.
Wait. What happened to pressing the chain before riveting the pins??
Excellent.
Guru. Do you grease the rear axle before putting the wheel back on?
Can’t hurt too put a light coat of grease on it, that’s what I did after I put new tires on mine.
I put grease on the o-rings, but I forgot to grease the pins and inside of the link holes. I haven't riveted the chain yet but I already pressed the plate on. Is there a way to remove the plate so that I can grease the pins and holes and still salvage the master link? If I can't salvage the master link, how do I get the plate off?
Would it be sensible to add thread locker to the rear nuts?
Looking for an excuse to buy tools. Would an impact driver work to break off/put on the front sprocket?
Clip type master links are unsafe? They're used on pretty much any offroad bike without any problems and make it 100x easier to clean the chain since you can remove it.
i'd like to know why it's unsafe
'...you can use a clip type but they aren't as safe and they're definitely not recommended..." Ari Henning maybe could have added that clip-type links are common on off-road motorcycles, and on lower powered street bikes. However he is working on a high powered street machine with a 530 chain. The issue is around the power being transmitted through the chain on a (high powered) street bike, especially as the chain ages and the link to link length changes. The use of a rivet is a permanent closure unlike a clip link. It is therefore much less likely to separate under use (say one of the pins on the link freezes with loss of lubricant and age...). A street bike chain is likely to be in use for multiple years and up to 30,000 miles or more with proper maintenance. Some of them will be dealing with 75 - 140 or more horsepower when under acceleration. I'd never use a clip-link on my street bikes for the reasons I've shared above. On my off-road machines? Yes, I have used clip-links. Remember that the consequences of a sudden chain failure can be rather drastic at highway speeds. I hope my comments are acceptable and answer your question respectfully.
Clipstyle master links been going for donkeys years and still are, they are tried and tested, aswell as proven. My Honda CB500Sport has always had chains installed with clip style master link.. no bother whatsoever. Although to be fair I always go for the regular heavy duty chain as opposed to O/X-ring. Maybe on an O-ring or X-ring it is different? Or perhaps 1000cc bikes and up tend to avoid clipstyle... No idea.. for me they are very reliable
Would leaving the bike in gear for the front sprocket mess anything up??
i want to change the front sprocket only because im going 2 teeth down. can i just loose the rear wheel (like when you adjust the chain tension), replace the sprocket and pull the wheel back to get the right chain tension? would be easier and faster than taking everything apart
One of my sprocket nuts ran slack and grazed down my swing arm. I didn't notice any damage to the sprocket so I assume it's fine.
Some front sprockets are bulkier than others which are flat. Does that matter when the tooth count is correct?
Good video
How do I know if I can torque the front sprocket down while it is in gear? My torque spec is 69 ft lbs
Most people suggest loctiting the rear sprocket nuts too, to ensure they don't come loose...
sir good day is it ok safe to just cut short the chain becuase my chain adjust is already on its limit..
If your existing chain is already at its limit, then the distance between the rollers and the pins is now too large for your sprockets and the chain will quickly destroy those and itself. As James G said above - your chain has done its time and served its purpose. Replace it before you get hurt or get stranded somewhere. Extending the life of your chain by removing links is a very false economic decision. It's also very dangerous.
Legit... watched a guys rear lock up on the freeway and needless to say he ate shit probably because of poor chain maintenance or buying some cheap crap on Ebay. It's a couple hundred to replace everything but it's far more expensive to end up severely injured.
Thank you!
Could I do this without a torque wrench or would it not be recommended
Is it good to put 15T/50T and 428 chain&sprocket on my bike which is 125cc 4T Derbi Senda Baja?
You should have touched on the subject of changing the gear ratio with different sized sprockets.
If you want to reuse the chain. Say for instance, different front and rear gearing for two different tracks. Do you just get a new master link every time you switch?
Is there any information we can find out there on the clip type master links? I'm wondering if they're "not as safe" why are so many top manufacturers (Including DID) manufacturing these? I just installed a new DID chain and sprockets on my 2012 FZ1 and used the clip type master link.
I'm assuming since this video was created, there have been technological advances with this tech maybe?
been running clip types for years on high powered bikes never had a problem just carry a spare clip just in case. Seen more chains stranding people all over the place with the rivet type.
How often do you change them