Mike, I wish you were near me. I have this same issue, and your level of detail in a world full of hacks, is refreshing. Great job on the turbo overhaul!!!
You are exactly right about exercising those vanes. I get on it once a week to move those vanes through full travel. I’ve had the P003A code and once I exercise the vanes by driving like I stole it, the problem will go away until I drive it too easy, for too long and then repeat.
Thanks so much for this video. I wouldn’t have been able to rebuild my turbo without your careful explanations. Biggest issue I had was getting the cast split oil control ring to compress to be able to seat the turbine shaft. Found that spinning with increasing pressure did it and pulled it out to ensure I didn’t damage the seal and then put it back in the same way. Also, when I inherited this truck from my father-in-law his brother told me to do an “Italian Tune-up” every now and then I and thought he was pulling my leg. Truth be told driving like a grandpa allows that unison ring to seize! Now she’s gonna get an Italian Tune-up frequently.
I completely agree. I feel my driving too conservatively led to my unison ring and veins seizing up. Since then I have been known to drive it a little more "spirited" at times to keep everything moving freely. 😜 Thank you for taking the time to watch and glad the video was helpful. Mike
Crazy that your turbo had a 26mm pin and mine had a 20mm pin. Also I agree with you as I was shocked that the seating surface for the unison ring was cast metal instead of a CNC machined surface. FYI I’m a retired mechanical engineer who is now a big time gear head 😅
As far as opening up the vehicle, you are totally correct. It not only helps the turbo though, it'll also burn off any sludge or carbon buildup on the heads. I drive normal around town, though when I get onto the interstate or merging onto the highway I do what I call a "pro merge" and open it up to ensure it gets some exercise.
hey mike just wanted to drop by and say thank you! used this video to tear down my 2016 LML turbo. man this was a process but I got it done and I watched this step by step. (even a few times in some parts). just wanted to drop a comment and say thanks buddy.
I just bought a kbdiesel performance rebuild kit to step up the intake size and swap the wheel for a 9 blade, watched this video to see what I’m about to get myself into. Very informative, thank you!
Mike, You’re awesome. Thank you. I just purchased the hi-temp anti size, Molly and Sly-guide. I did clearance the unison ring. I agree with you about Garrett not smoothing out the contact points. It took me a while with a dremel but I smoothed and clearance the unison ring. I bought a second turbo to rebuild before I tore out my original. But with your tutorial, it was an easy rebuild. NOW, the fun begins tearing the turbo out of the truck. THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!
You're very welcome. You are right, rebuilding the turbo is the easy part, getting it in and out of the engine bay is a bit more work. 😜 Thank you for taking the time to watch and thank you for the comments. Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Mike, I rebuilt my turbo. I have a question. I purchased the quad rings by the part numbers you supplied. The plunger has some resistance going in and out. Probably because of the new rings. Will this loosen up over time and usage? I want to know if this seems correct before I tear into my truck or blow my turbo up. Thank you
@robertwalker5868 yes, the new quad rings did add some resistance, but a little Sil-Glide helps keep it at minimum. Didn't have any effect on the operation once installed.
Thanks so much. I could not have did this job with out your video. Its always more fun when I finish the turbo install and everything works. You really saved my truck.
Nicely done, Sir! Very helpful video! I found almost the exact same things wrong with my turbo. The unison ring as frozen up with rust off of the raw casting on the shoulder of the center section! Also, I had a hell of a time getting my center section and exhaust turbine housing apart! I had to heat and tap on it for an hour! I did more than tap at one point and flaked a piece of the center section flange off! Ugh!! So, be careful!! Fortunately, I was able to braze it back on OK. Then, I had to work the shoulder and the counter bore of those flanges with a stone on a die grinder to get them to fit back together. The rust had expanded the center section shoulder out A LOT!! The counter bore on the exhaust housing was "swelled in" a lot. Anyway, very helpful video. I appreciate you taking the time to share this knowledge!
Even one stuck vein can restrict the unison plate from turning. My 2004 GMC only has 15k miles and it has 2563 error code. I did not drive it hard during it's 28 years of service. I think that is the problem. Only a few times was it on the freeway.
Agreed, only takes one stuck vane to render the unison ring immovable. Also agree that opening it up once in a while is a good thing to fully exercise the unison ring and vanes. Give it the ole' Italian tune-up on occasion. 😄
It's not a difficult job, just a little time consuming because so much needs to be removed to gain access. But that's pretty much anything these days. It's just nuts and bolts. Thanks for taking the time you watch. Mike
26mm roll pin was too long and would bind on the gear. My pin was spiral and fit tight so i reused it. The new quad rings made the plunger really stiff to move in and out hopefully that is normal.
You have to trim the roll pin down to the same length as the original or it can interfere. Yes, the quad rings will add some resistance, depending on how badly the original ones were. I've rebuilt multiple of these since and use the exact parts I listed without any issues. The roll pins and quad rings are not available through OEM so have to be sourced elsewhere but they work.
Mike. Thank you for your videos. I have a bad ass 2006 Chevy 2500HD RESCUE and RECOVERY truck. You and your wife need to come out to Lucerne Valley and King of the Hammers, of which I am part of the "ON-COURSE" medical and recovery team RESCUE 3. Ive watched both of your LBZ turbo Videos. My question is the anti-sieze. I've heard both good and bad about adding anti-sieze to the unison ring and vanes. Adding anti-sieze attracts the carbon. I am in the process of rebuilding my LBZ turbo and I'm at the assembly phase. WHAT TO DO?? Thank you Robert RESCUE 3
I've also heard good and bad, but have not personally had any adverse effects from using it. I do recommend clearancing the unison ring and not relying slowly on anti-seize.
Hi Mike, can you add the McMaster Carr part numbers for the quad ring shaft seals to the video description please? Just pulled my turbo apart yesterday due to a 2563 and 0299 code and the unison ring was seized along with several of the vanes that had limited movement.
There are several aftermarket kits available for these. I chose the one from KC Turbo (KC360) that had the 360-degree thrust bearing, but others offer nearly the same rebuild kits. Thank you for watching. Mike
SOo, I love how you cut the part out 24:08 where you drive the Pin into the gear! At this point I believe either you do not have the correct PIN size noted on this or you drilled out the hole. I would have left that gear alone had you been more honest and not cut it out and you actually showed us what a F'N pain in the ass it is to drive that pin into that gear, without bending the shaft or breaking a tooth on the gear or in my case BOTH! Other than that, the most detailed video on how to rebuild the turbos on youtube. Thank you.
I love how you assume things. It just took me longer than I figured people wanted to watch fighting with one section. I used the exact pin number that I posted in the comments and I did not have to drill or do any modifications, it just took longer on that partially part then expected so I cut a minute or two out. Nothing dishonest about the video but thanks for your assumptions. Mike
One thing I measured 3 times. My spiral pin is 20mm (correct diameter of 3mm) and I measured the width of the gear across the pin hole and it was just over 22mm.
Yes, with the 3mm X 26mm spiral pin I linked in the description it protrudes out slightly from either side of the gear for full engagement. Same as my OEM pin. Thanks for watching. Mike
Sorry, I don't have a recommendation on doing a cleaning like that. I've seen a few guys on Duramax forum drill a hole and spray oven cleaner in but I'm not a fan. I personally don't think it will ever be as clean or decarboned as tearing it down and mechanically removing the carbon. Any other way I feel is temporary or a band aid. Mike
Thank you for watching. I apologize, I thought I put the parts numbers in the video description but I guess I forget. Both the spring pins and the quad rings were purchased from McMaster Carr. The part #'s are: 1170N23 quad rings 91612A229 spring pins. Thank you Mike
Hey mike! First off, great I really appreciate this video! It’s helped me out a ton on rebuilding my turbo! 1 question though, at the 13:47 mark in the video, when you split the turbo. Was there a metal ring between the two parts? Mine (off a lmm) has one. Trying to put it back together with that ring at it’s not wanting to go. Is that ring even necessary? Between your video and another one I’ve watched it doesn’t appear that anyone is putting that ring back in! Thanks again!
Thanks for the comments and I'm glad my video was helpful. As for the ring, YES, that ring that engages with all of the vanes is very important and needs to be reinstalled. That is called the unison ring and it drives the vanes' positions via the hydraulic vane positioner. The vanes are keyed and must fully sit into the ring in proper orientation or the components will not mesh and go back together properly. It may take some trial and error to get them oriented correctly but they will go. Mike
@@zmotorsports62 oh not the unison ring. Mine has a thin metal ring almost acting as a gasket I guess between the two sides that appears to get sandwiched in when you tightened down the band clamp. Wish I could post a picture of what I’m talking about
@@dmax_steve6233 yes! I ended up just tossing the metal ring even though a majority of people told me not to. It was impossible to find a replacement. Been running strong for the last 6-7 months! What issues are you running into?
Hey Mike this is a very helpful video, thank you. I'm stuck trying to remove the VGT gear set access cap, is there anychance you could help by explaining/offer some guidance?
Use a long bolt threaded into the cap and it will give you a little leverage to walk it out. Worse case I guess you could clamp a pair of locking pliers on the bolt and a small slide hammer to extract it. Best of luck and thanks for taking the time to watch. Glad it's been helpful. Mike
P0299 is an under boost code. Something didn't get put back together correctly. Pull it back apart and check the unison ring to actuator assembly and make sure it isn't stuck. Also check if it has full range of motion with the plunger. First check the hydraulic solenoid connection.
I purchased the KC Turbo rebuild kit but I have no affiliation nor was I sponsored. I suggest using one with the 360-degree thrust bearing though. I used the LiquiMoly LM48 and for the O-rings I only use Sil-Glyde. Hope that helps. Mike
Is there a seal on the actuator arm that moves the unison ring? I put back together and I remember thinking the oil goes in and no seal was there. Now turbo blows oil out exhaust
Oil return line bolts to 15 ft/lb? I was checking to see the studs on top of engine and found 2 sites saying 18 ft/lb for both ends of the return line. Mine leaked (reason for me pulling it) so think I’m going to go 18.
I wish i can find a good mechanic like this.I need my chevy silverado diesel turbo to be repair, i live in barstow ca.can someone please recommend me a mechanic around this area ? Thank you!
When you put the gear and that plunger back together did you have that pin facing the entrance of the actuator?or which way is the beginning of the gear?
As you are inserting the plunger (rack) you want the first tooth to engage with the first tooth on the spur gear which is connected to the unison ring actuator. Hope that makes sense. When turning the unison actuator pin, you want the full range of engagement between the spur gear and rack teeth.
@@zmotorsports62 Awesome, I will check out that product. I usually use marine grease. It has a high heat tolerance as well and helps keep O-rings in place while not pinching or binding them up.
I think any lube would do a decent job of aiding O-rings going together and helping them prevent rolling or twisting. I was sold on the Sil-Glyde way back in the late 80's when I started my career and have been using it religiously ever since.
Sorry, I'm not really in a position to take on any more work at this time. I appreciate the interest and thank you for taking the time to watch but this was more of a how-to for those who want to tackle the job themselves.
@@zmotorsports62what about... I think you said there were a couple o rings, and lock ring if I remember right. Were those from a kit or just generic over the counter parts? I can't find any kits for rebuilding an actuator assembly. Thanks.
@@zmotorsports62 Is it possible to remove the actuator without removing the gear mechanism? I was experimenting to see if I could do so, I can in fact easily loosen it from the gear mechanism and slide the plunger away, but it gets to a point that it won't go past. I've got no leverage or anything to grab onto, and can't figure out how to slide it completely out. Any thoughts?
Depends on what you change. They are balanced from the factory, and I didn't change anything on the rotating assembly. Many of the aftermarket compressor wheels come balanced and state that no additional balancing is necessary.
Thanks for the info im Rebuilding my 06 Duramax turbo now. The video has helped me a lot in my rebuild. Much insight and instructions on how to do it all step by step.
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Awesome video! Thanks Mike watched it twice to understand how to disassemble and rebuild.
Thank you for the comments and glad it was helpful.
Mike
Mike, I wish you were near me. I have this same issue, and your level of detail in a world full of hacks, is refreshing. Great job on the turbo overhaul!!!
Thank you. I appreciate your kind words and thank you for taking the time to watch.
Mike
My vanes get a workout everytime I get on the freeway. 😁
Great video thanks for posting. 🙏
You are exactly right about exercising those vanes. I get on it once a week to move those vanes through full travel. I’ve had the P003A code and once I exercise the vanes by driving like I stole it, the problem will go away until I drive it too easy, for too long and then repeat.
Thank you. I wondered about my driving habits contributing to the issue.
Mike
Thanks so much for this video. I wouldn’t have been able to rebuild my turbo without your careful explanations. Biggest issue I had was getting the cast split oil control ring to compress to be able to seat the turbine shaft. Found that spinning with increasing pressure did it and pulled it out to ensure I didn’t damage the seal and then put it back in the same way. Also, when I inherited this truck from my father-in-law his brother told me to do an “Italian Tune-up” every now and then I and thought he was pulling my leg. Truth be told driving like a grandpa allows that unison ring to seize! Now she’s gonna get an Italian Tune-up frequently.
I completely agree. I feel my driving too conservatively led to my unison ring and veins seizing up. Since then I have been known to drive it a little more "spirited" at times to keep everything moving freely. 😜
Thank you for taking the time to watch and glad the video was helpful.
Mike
Crazy that your turbo had a 26mm pin and mine had a 20mm pin. Also I agree with you as I was shocked that the seating surface for the unison ring was cast metal instead of a CNC machined surface. FYI I’m a retired mechanical engineer who is now a big time gear head 😅
As far as opening up the vehicle, you are totally correct. It not only helps the turbo though, it'll also burn off any sludge or carbon buildup on the heads. I drive normal around town, though when I get onto the interstate or merging onto the highway I do what I call a "pro merge" and open it up to ensure it gets some exercise.
hey mike just wanted to drop by and say thank you! used this video to tear down my 2016 LML turbo. man this was a process but I got it done and I watched this step by step. (even a few times in some parts). just wanted to drop a comment and say thanks buddy.
Glad the video was helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment.
Mike
I just bought a kbdiesel performance rebuild kit to step up the intake size and swap the wheel for a 9 blade, watched this video to see what I’m about to get myself into. Very informative, thank you!
Glad it was informative. Thank you for the comments and for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Mike,
You’re awesome. Thank you. I just purchased the hi-temp anti size, Molly and Sly-guide. I did clearance the unison ring. I agree with you about Garrett not smoothing out the contact points. It took me a while with a dremel but I smoothed and clearance the unison ring. I bought a second turbo to rebuild before I tore out my original. But with your tutorial, it was an easy rebuild. NOW, the fun begins tearing the turbo out of the truck.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!!
You're very welcome. You are right, rebuilding the turbo is the easy part, getting it in and out of the engine bay is a bit more work. 😜
Thank you for taking the time to watch and thank you for the comments.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Mike, I rebuilt my turbo. I have a question. I purchased the quad rings by the part numbers you supplied. The plunger has some resistance going in and out. Probably because of the new rings. Will this loosen up over time and usage? I want to know if this seems correct before I tear into my truck or blow my turbo up. Thank you
@robertwalker5868 yes, the new quad rings did add some resistance, but a little Sil-Glide helps keep it at minimum. Didn't have any effect on the operation once installed.
@@zmotorsports62 PERFECT!! I did exactly as you did on the rebuild. Thank you and again GREAT VIDEO!!
Thanks so much. I could not have did this job with out your video. Its always more fun when I finish the turbo install and everything works. You really saved my truck.
Awesome. Glad to hear it was helpful and I appreciate the feedback and comments.
Mike
GREAT JOB! I appreciate the attention to detail and high professionalism. Great tutorial!
Thank you for the comments and for taking the time to watch. Glad you enjoyed it.
Mike
Nicely done, Sir! Very helpful video! I found almost the exact same things wrong with my turbo. The unison ring as frozen up with rust off of the raw casting on the shoulder of the center section! Also, I had a hell of a time getting my center section and exhaust turbine housing apart! I had to heat and tap on it for an hour! I did more than tap at one point and flaked a piece of the center section flange off! Ugh!! So, be careful!! Fortunately, I was able to braze it back on OK. Then, I had to work the shoulder and the counter bore of those flanges with a stone on a die grinder to get them to fit back together. The rust had expanded the center section shoulder out A LOT!! The counter bore on the exhaust housing was "swelled in" a lot. Anyway, very helpful video. I appreciate you taking the time to share this knowledge!
Glad the video was helpful.
Thanks for watching and for the comments.
Mike
Just found your channel. Im getting ready to put a new turbo in my LBZ. I really appreciate your attention to detail 👍🏻
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Mike
Extremely detailed video Mike. Thank you. I have never seen the inside of a turbo before, and your rebuild instructions were great.
Thank you. I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for taking the time you watch and for commenting.
Mike
As always it’s a pure joy to sit back and enjoy your videos Mike. 👌🏼
Great video, it's like watching a watchmaker in work. You sure know what you are doing.
Take care and greetings from Norway.
Thank you for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Mike
Even one stuck vein can restrict the unison plate from turning. My 2004 GMC only has 15k miles and it has 2563 error code. I did not drive it hard during it's 28 years of service. I think that is the problem. Only a few times was it on the freeway.
Agreed, only takes one stuck vane to render the unison ring immovable.
Also agree that opening it up once in a while is a good thing to fully exercise the unison ring and vanes. Give it the ole' Italian tune-up on occasion. 😄
Great video Mike! Very informative and thorough. I appreciate you posting this.
Thank you for the kind words and thank you for taking the time to watch.
Hope it was helpful.
Mike
A true craftsman at work here folks.
Thank you for the comment and thanks for taking the time to watch. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Mike
8:40 you say LH thread and turn counter clock wise.
Great video though! Getting ready to tear into mine. Will use your video!
Yeah my bad. It IS a left hand thread but not sure why I said counter clockwise. It should be clockwise.
Looks pretty simple. I’ll have to rip mine apart.
It's not a difficult job, just a little time consuming because so much needs to be removed to gain access. But that's pretty much anything these days. It's just nuts and bolts.
Thanks for taking the time you watch.
Mike
26mm roll pin was too long and would bind on the gear. My pin was spiral and fit tight so i reused it. The new quad rings made the plunger really stiff to move in and out hopefully that is normal.
You have to trim the roll pin down to the same length as the original or it can interfere.
Yes, the quad rings will add some resistance, depending on how badly the original ones were. I've rebuilt multiple of these since and use the exact parts I listed without any issues.
The roll pins and quad rings are not available through OEM so have to be sourced elsewhere but they work.
Mike. Thank you for your videos. I have a bad ass 2006 Chevy 2500HD RESCUE and RECOVERY truck. You and your wife need to come out to Lucerne Valley and King of the Hammers, of which I am part of the "ON-COURSE" medical and recovery team RESCUE 3. Ive watched both of your LBZ turbo Videos. My question is the anti-sieze. I've heard both good and bad about adding anti-sieze to the unison ring and vanes. Adding anti-sieze attracts the carbon. I am in the process of rebuilding my LBZ turbo and I'm at the assembly phase. WHAT TO DO??
Thank you
Robert
RESCUE 3
I've also heard good and bad, but have not personally had any adverse effects from using it. I do recommend clearancing the unison ring and not relying slowly on anti-seize.
Hi Mike, can you add the McMaster Carr part numbers for the quad ring shaft seals to the video description please? Just pulled my turbo apart yesterday due to a 2563 and 0299 code and the unison ring was seized along with several of the vanes that had limited movement.
The McMaster Carr part numbers are as follows:
1170N23 quad rings
91612A229 spring pins
Thanks for watching.
Mike
amazing video
Thank you.
Great video Mike, thanks a bounch.
By any chance could you have the rebuild kit brand or link?
Much appreciated. Ruben
There are several aftermarket kits available for these. I chose the one from KC Turbo (KC360) that had the 360-degree thrust bearing, but others offer nearly the same rebuild kits.
Thank you for watching.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62
Thank you Sir.
Love your content sir
Great video Mike. Can you please tell me the part number for the quad rings from McMaster-Carr . I can’t find them anywhere.?
Thank you.
McMaster Carr part numbers.
Quad rings are part # 1170N23
Spring pins part # 91612A229
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
SOo, I love how you cut the part out 24:08 where you drive the Pin into the gear! At this point I believe either you do not have the correct PIN size noted on this or you drilled out the hole. I would have left that gear alone had you been more honest and not cut it out and you actually showed us what a F'N pain in the ass it is to drive that pin into that gear, without bending the shaft or breaking a tooth on the gear or in my case BOTH! Other than that, the most detailed video on how to rebuild the turbos on youtube. Thank you.
I love how you assume things. It just took me longer than I figured people wanted to watch fighting with one section. I used the exact pin number that I posted in the comments and I did not have to drill or do any modifications, it just took longer on that partially part then expected so I cut a minute or two out. Nothing dishonest about the video but thanks for your assumptions.
Mike
One thing I measured 3 times. My spiral pin is 20mm (correct diameter of 3mm) and I measured the width of the gear across the pin hole and it was just over 22mm.
Yes, with the 3mm X 26mm spiral pin I linked in the description it protrudes out slightly from either side of the gear for full engagement. Same as my OEM pin.
Thanks for watching.
Mike
Mr.Mike I have a 05' LLY Duramax. If you were gonna suggest a cleaner to use through the turbo hot side to clean up insides some what would it be.
Sorry, I don't have a recommendation on doing a cleaning like that. I've seen a few guys on Duramax forum drill a hole and spray oven cleaner in but I'm not a fan. I personally don't think it will ever be as clean or decarboned as tearing it down and mechanically removing the carbon. Any other way I feel is temporary or a band aid.
Mike
Thank you for your video, I’m rebuilding my turbo right now and this is very helpful.
Do you have the link for the square o rings for the piston?
Thank you for watching. I apologize, I thought I put the parts numbers in the video description but I guess I forget.
Both the spring pins and the quad rings were purchased from McMaster Carr. The part #'s are:
1170N23 quad rings
91612A229 spring pins.
Thank you
Mike
Hey mike! First off, great I really appreciate this video! It’s helped me out a ton on rebuilding my turbo! 1 question though, at the 13:47 mark in the video, when you split the turbo. Was there a metal ring between the two parts? Mine (off a lmm) has one. Trying to put it back together with that ring at it’s not wanting to go. Is that ring even necessary? Between your video and another one I’ve watched it doesn’t appear that anyone is putting that ring back in! Thanks again!
Thanks for the comments and I'm glad my video was helpful.
As for the ring, YES, that ring that engages with all of the vanes is very important and needs to be reinstalled. That is called the unison ring and it drives the vanes' positions via the hydraulic vane positioner.
The vanes are keyed and must fully sit into the ring in proper orientation or the components will not mesh and go back together properly.
It may take some trial and error to get them oriented correctly but they will go.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 oh not the unison ring. Mine has a thin metal ring almost acting as a gasket I guess between the two sides that appears to get sandwiched in when you tightened down the band clamp. Wish I could post a picture of what I’m talking about
@@austindavis657 sorry, mine didn't have anything sandwiched under the band clamp between the two halves.
@@austindavis657 did you get it back together? Did you use that metal ring? I’m having the same issue with my 2011 LML turbo
@@dmax_steve6233 yes! I ended up just tossing the metal ring even though a majority of people told me not to. It was impossible to find a replacement. Been running strong for the last 6-7 months! What issues are you running into?
Awesome job. Boost away.
Hey Mike this is a very helpful video, thank you. I'm stuck trying to remove the VGT gear set access cap, is there anychance you could help by explaining/offer some guidance?
Use a long bolt threaded into the cap and it will give you a little leverage to walk it out. Worse case I guess you could clamp a pair of locking pliers on the bolt and a small slide hammer to extract it.
Best of luck and thanks for taking the time to watch. Glad it's been helpful.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 I used a torch and some modified vice grips and got it out
Good to hear. The rest is smooth sailing.
Mike
Great video. Is the handle that moves the unison ring supposed to be hard to move by hand?
If the valve is removed then the plunger should move in and out relatively easily, which moves the pawl connected to the unison ring.
@@zmotorsports62hmmm. I rebuilt my turbo, but now it doesn’t boost uphill and I get the p0299 code.
P0299 is an under boost code. Something didn't get put back together correctly. Pull it back apart and check the unison ring to actuator assembly and make sure it isn't stuck. Also check if it has full range of motion with the plunger. First check the hydraulic solenoid connection.
ALSO, What LBZ rebuild kit did you buy, What moly-lube and O-Ring lube?
I purchased the KC Turbo rebuild kit but I have no affiliation nor was I sponsored. I suggest using one with the 360-degree thrust bearing though.
I used the LiquiMoly LM48 and for the O-rings I only use Sil-Glyde.
Hope that helps.
Mike
Is there a seal on the actuator arm that moves the unison ring? I put back together and I remember thinking the oil goes in and no seal was there. Now turbo blows oil out exhaust
No seal on the actual arm, there are quad seals on both ends of the rack gear which seal off the oil from getting to the arm.
@ yes I replaced them and roll pin and just didn’t see a seal and just wondered how it doesn’t leak oil
Oil return line bolts to 15 ft/lb? I was checking to see the studs on top of engine and found 2 sites saying 18 ft/lb for both ends of the return line. Mine leaked (reason for me pulling it) so think I’m going to go 18.
If memory serves the FSM states 15-18 ft/lbs.
I wish i can find a good mechanic like this.I need my chevy silverado diesel turbo to be repair, i live in barstow ca.can someone please recommend me a mechanic around this area ?
Thank you!
When you put the gear and that plunger back together did you have that pin facing the entrance of the actuator?or which way is the beginning of the gear?
As you are inserting the plunger (rack) you want the first tooth to engage with the first tooth on the spur gear which is connected to the unison ring actuator. Hope that makes sense. When turning the unison actuator pin, you want the full range of engagement between the spur gear and rack teeth.
Won’t the profusely lubed parts promote coking?
Not that I have experienced.
What was the product you greased up the compressor O-ring with? I missed what you called it and can't seem to make out the words. Thanks in advance.
I use a product called Sil-Glyde on all O-rings.
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
@@zmotorsports62 Awesome, I will check out that product. I usually use marine grease. It has a high heat tolerance as well and helps keep O-rings in place while not pinching or binding them up.
I think any lube would do a decent job of aiding O-rings going together and helping them prevent rolling or twisting. I was sold on the Sil-Glyde way back in the late 80's when I started my career and have been using it religiously ever since.
How many miles on this turbo? Great video brotha
Thank you.
I had 114k on it at the time.
Thank you for taking the time to watch. Hope it was helpful.
Mike
How much would you charge to do this if I bring you the turbo?
Sorry, I'm not really in a position to take on any more work at this time. I appreciate the interest and thank you for taking the time to watch but this was more of a how-to for those who want to tackle the job themselves.
@@zmotorsports62 thank you
What did you use to shave down the inner casting surface?
I just used a rotary bit and run it around the circumference. Just enough to smooth out the casting as that was adequate to get the needed clearance.
Do you have a link for the spring pin? Or in particular the actuator assembly? Thanks.
The spring pin is 91612A229 from McMaster Carr.
@@zmotorsports62what about... I think you said there were a couple o rings, and lock ring if I remember right. Were those from a kit or just generic over the counter parts? I can't find any kits for rebuilding an actuator assembly. Thanks.
I don't have the snap ring part #, but the quad ring is 1170N23 also from McMaster Carr.
@@zmotorsports62can you confirm that part number 91612A299? That part number doesn't seem to exist on McMaster Carr.
I really appreciate your time.
@@zmotorsports62
Is it possible to remove the actuator without removing the gear mechanism?
I was experimenting to see if I could do so, I can in fact easily loosen it from the gear mechanism and slide the plunger away, but it gets to a point that it won't go past. I've got no leverage or anything to grab onto, and can't figure out how to slide it completely out. Any thoughts?
What is the kind of liqui moly you used?
I think it is the LM48. It's the assembly lube.
Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
Can this turbo burn water somehow internally
It's possible to have a coolant seal fail internally as the turbo is cooled using the engine's cooling system.
Does it need to be balanced or something?
Depends on what you change. They are balanced from the factory, and I didn't change anything on the rotating assembly. Many of the aftermarket compressor wheels come balanced and state that no additional balancing is necessary.
Can you tell me where you purchased the rebuild kit?
KC Turbos
Thank you! Great video by the way. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for taking the time to watch.
Mike
What cleaners did you use to get all the carbon off.
I used a combination of small 1" Roloc/ScotchBrite abrasive discs and small wire wheels on pneumatic die grinders to remove the carbon buildup.
Thanks for the info im Rebuilding my 06 Duramax turbo now. The video has helped me a lot in my rebuild. Much insight and instructions on how to do it all step by step.
Glad to hear the video was helpful. Thanks for the comments and thank you for watching.
Mike