I made an in depth video on how to remove the turbo. it's so dirty and rusted in there the unison ring is frozen to the race it rotates on.. smashing on the actuator is extremely risky. I tried to do it this way just to get the light to shut off long enough to sell my truck but once I cracked it open I was very glad I pulled it and cleaned it properly. There's a reason his light keeps coming back on.
I think I have the same issue. I have no real drivability issues other than the dash light and the codes P2563 & P003A. Was your experience similar. My edge display says it's stuck at 25%.
I tried to grind a rod down and put a hook in the tip. I think I just got lucky and the rod shape I ground wedged in there really well. This is a temporary solution until you have time to pull the turbo. It's a PITA, but that's the real solution. If you are too aggressive with the plunger and the vanes are really stuck (rusted like mine) you can break/bend/crack the armature. I don't have a video of pulling the turbo, but I have a couple here of the before and after on the vanes illustrating how stuck they were. -Kevin
Great vid man! I'm having the exact same issue with my oldmans LBZ. P003a, truck runs fine but of course with the code it won't pass emissions testing :) Any hints on getting the DP off? I've heard it's an absolute bear (What a stupid place to mount a turbo, lol!)
The down pipe isn't so hard. don't be shy about tapping it with a "persuader" (hammer). The DP to FP (front pipe) isn't so hard, but the DP to turbo is difficult. I loosened the clamp and just rattled around the DP from underneath until it came off. I might have used a hammer and screwdriver from the top as well. The bad news is that the code just started coming back. I actually drilled a couple holes in the hot side scroll housing and tried squirting oven cleaner in that way, but couldn't get it to free up. I ran out of oven cleaner and time, so I'm just driving it until I can figure out something else. I fear the solution is to pull the whole turbo and clean it, but it's a 10 hr job if you know what you're doing.
soapbox94 Well that sucks, I hope you don't have to pull the turbo.. I just had the oldmans truck out on the highway in 5th gear (M mode) doing pulls from 70-100mph trying to make sure the vanes are all freed up, lol! I haven't gotten the P003a code since I cleared it last week. Problem is, if there's a stored code (Not even a CEL) the god damn thing still won't pass our emissions testing up here in the great white north. The worst part is the truck runs fine, zero issues. I wish I could just tune out that stupid VPS and never worry about it again.
Hey I'd sure appreciate a response to this, I'm trying to diagnose my 003a code but when I'm driving my vanes show like they are moving normally. If I clear the code it tries to do the "relearn" and sets the code. Did yours show like it was moving as your driving?
Mine got to where it wouldn't go under 8% and would stick at 84%. I finally pulled the turbo and some of the vanes were rusted in place. The EZ off got me by until I had time to do it right.
take it on the highway and drive it hard, when u baby thes trucks the VGT system will seize up from carbon, and or if the truck SITS alot this will happen
Kevin Rogers Yep! I learned my lesson. low boost, not towing, cruising at low EGT's, too much B100. It's just not good for the VGT system. Without the high temps to burn off the carbon it just collects in the vanes and unison ring. I tried doing what he did with the easy-off, but mine was too far gone I guess. So, I pulled my turbo and rebuilt it.
@@stevewenzel391 fixed it temporarily. Had to pull the turbo. Vanes were rusted to the posts. I posted videos of the stuck vanes and then the vanes freed up.
Did this end up solving the problem? I have the same code truck lacking a little power and boosting more?P003A
I made an in depth video on how to remove the turbo. it's so dirty and rusted in there the unison ring is frozen to the race it rotates on.. smashing on the actuator is extremely risky. I tried to do it this way just to get the light to shut off long enough to sell my truck but once I cracked it open I was very glad I pulled it and cleaned it properly. There's a reason his light keeps coming back on.
Where's your video bro
@@stn7172 check my profile , there’s a few more vid out now too
Be nice if pickup had a tilting front end clip... tilt the fenders forward, access the engine easier.
My 06 4500 Kodiak has it, it’s only a minor convenience. The lid on the doghouse on the interior however does make access easier
What does that do I got a throttle delay will this fix that issue
I think I have the same issue. I have no real drivability issues other than the dash light and the codes P2563 & P003A. Was your experience similar. My edge display says it's stuck at 25%.
did you ever figure out a fix for this? Im having the same issue
I wonder how white lighting would work
What are you using for a rod? the plunger seems to be just a straight through hole
I tried to grind a rod down and put a hook in the tip. I think I just got lucky and the rod shape I ground wedged in there really well. This is a temporary solution until you have time to pull the turbo. It's a PITA, but that's the real solution. If you are too aggressive with the plunger and the vanes are really stuck (rusted like mine) you can break/bend/crack the armature. I don't have a video of pulling the turbo, but I have a couple here of the before and after on the vanes illustrating how stuck they were. -Kevin
Great vid man! I'm having the exact same issue with my oldmans LBZ. P003a, truck runs fine but of course with the code it won't pass emissions testing :) Any hints on getting the DP off? I've heard it's an absolute bear (What a stupid place to mount a turbo, lol!)
The down pipe isn't so hard. don't be shy about tapping it with a "persuader" (hammer). The DP to FP (front pipe) isn't so hard, but the DP to turbo is difficult. I loosened the clamp and just rattled around the DP from underneath until it came off. I might have used a hammer and screwdriver from the top as well.
The bad news is that the code just started coming back. I actually drilled a couple holes in the hot side scroll housing and tried squirting oven cleaner in that way, but couldn't get it to free up. I ran out of oven cleaner and time, so I'm just driving it until I can figure out something else. I fear the solution is to pull the whole turbo and clean it, but it's a 10 hr job if you know what you're doing.
soapbox94 Well that sucks, I hope you don't have to pull the turbo.. I just had the oldmans truck out on the highway in 5th gear (M mode) doing pulls from 70-100mph trying to make sure the vanes are all freed up, lol! I haven't gotten the P003a code since I cleared it last week. Problem is, if there's a stored code (Not even a CEL) the god damn thing still won't pass our emissions testing up here in the great white north. The worst part is the truck runs fine, zero issues. I wish I could just tune out that stupid VPS and never worry about it again.
How is the end of your rod inside the actuateur
It was just jammed in there. I tried to make it hook, but it somehow just stuck. Ended up having to take the turbo out and really clean it.
Hey I'd sure appreciate a response to this, I'm trying to diagnose my 003a code but when I'm driving my vanes show like they are moving normally. If I clear the code it tries to do the "relearn" and sets the code. Did yours show like it was moving as your driving?
Mine got to where it wouldn't go under 8% and would stick at 84%. I finally pulled the turbo and some of the vanes were rusted in place. The EZ off got me by until I had time to do it right.
Ok I'll look for it. Thanks man I'm just trying to figure out what route I want to go with this crap.
So when it’s all the way at 0 how close is it the the back when you pull the plug and snapring
Edge turbo%
What shout the monitor % read as various power settings? Ex: off/idle/ various rpm's...
Thank You
It's all over the place depending on load, rpm, etc.
can you do a video about test the vane position sensor ?
Hey did this work for ya? I'm starting to have issues with my lly.
Yes. But the problem came back 2 months later. I have another video explaining my next steps. Thanks.
take it on the highway and drive it hard, when u baby thes trucks the VGT system will seize up from carbon, and or if the truck SITS alot this will happen
Kevin Rogers Yep! I learned my lesson. low boost, not towing, cruising at low EGT's, too much B100. It's just not good for the VGT system. Without the high temps to burn off the carbon it just collects in the vanes and unison ring. I tried doing what he did with the easy-off, but mine was too far gone I guess. So, I pulled my turbo and rebuilt it.
Where is that lever you where moving on turbo
What was your symptoms of the bad vet?
Correction VGT
So mine just did this once & it went limp mode while climbing a 11% grade, codes went off & havnt came back.
Hi bro what was the problem?
Sticky vanes in the VGT (variable geometry turbo)
@@Kevin-ve7yi dide it fix it?
@@stevewenzel391 fixed it temporarily. Had to pull the turbo. Vanes were rusted to the posts. I posted videos of the stuck vanes and then the vanes freed up.
All this shit looks sketchy af lol