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Congrats on the coach. I can't say about the Shell Spirax as I am not familiar with that fluid. I would look at the manual for your particular coach as Monaco did use Dexron III in some models. However, starting around 2001/2002 model years, generally in the Dynasty and up they put Transynd fluid in the transmission. Transynd is manufactured by Castrol but more importantly is the oil's classification. Anything TES-295 or equivalent will meet Allison's recommendations. There is now a new Allison classification of TES-668 that will also work as it is reverse engineered to be compatible with TES-295. Hope that is helpful and thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike

I'm sorry I don't. I did a complete timing belt, water pump and tensioner replacement a while ago on the wife's TL but didn't record it. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and for the comments. Mike

@ Ok I understand. And I hope you release new videos on this great car in the future. Thank you so much for the upload.

It's possible, but it's better to make absolutely certain. Make sure to check that it isn't stuck to the underside of the injector as that is quite common.

@zmotorsports62 im 100% sure the washer is gone. Did not hear it drop, but yes i probably should open the valve cover to be certain 😑 lucky me working outside in 12,2 °F 😂

Thank you. Yeah, you're not very far from me being just up north of Logan. The video you are referring to of my PM1340GT lathe, was one of my first videos over ten years ago and in my old shop. Mike

You have to trim the roll pin down to the same length as the original or it can interfere. Yes, the quad rings will add some resistance, depending on how badly the original ones were. I've rebuilt multiple of these since and use the exact parts I listed without any issues. The roll pins and quad rings are not available through OEM so have to be sourced elsewhere but they work.

Thanks. The oil pressure sensor is down near the starter motor.

@@zmotorsports62 do you have to remove the starter to get at that sensor. things are real tight there

Yes, if memory serves the starter needs to be removed to gain access to the oil sensor.

I only changed the brains because there was nothing wrong with anything other than the bearings. I now have just over 225 hours and still going strong.

@@zmotorsports62 Do you have to have a press to get the bearings to go in?

Not necessarily. You can press them in with a simple vise. Worst case you can drive them in with a drift and hammer but I don't recommend hammering in new bearing to install them as you can actually damage them. If you do drive them into the bore be sure to only hit the outside race.

Thank you for the kind words. Glad the video was helpful and thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike

No seal on the actual arm, there are quad seals on both ends of the rack gear which seal off the oil from getting to the arm.

@ yes I replaced them and roll pin and just didn’t see a seal and just wondered how it doesn’t leak oil

You are very welcome. Glad it was helpful and thank you for taking the time to watch. Good luck on your search. Mike

Loosen the pivot bolt on the compressor, then loosen the fastener on the slotted adjustment and tighten to spec. then tighten all fasteners.

Thank you very much. I appreciate the comments and thank you for watching my videos. I hope you have found them informative. Mike

Sorry, I can't remember the part number off the top of my head. I think it measured about 5" bolt or fittings on center with about a 3.5" clear tube with 1/2"-20 threaded banjo bolts.

Sorry, that would have been too long of a video and getting down to the front cover is pretty basic.

You had to remove the motor mount correct? How did u support the engine?

@2013creed that is correct. Motor mount was removed. I used a floor jack to support it from underneath. Thanks for taking the time to watch Mike

Great video, I am using it step by step. I figured that u supported it from below, but I was a little confused because u lifted the car to get to the harmonic balancer. I couldn’t understand how u did that. I also can’t thank u enough for your replies! U have been a great help.

Because the ECM must see a complete circuit and "think" the original lift pump is still in the circuit. Otherwise it will flag a fault code.

Thank you for the kind words. I recently had Dustin from Tool Box Tours come through my shop and do a tool box and shop tour if you get a chance to check out my video on his TH-cam channel. Thanks. Mike

@@zmotorsports62 Will Do !!

If memory serves the FSM states 15-18 ft/lbs.

Thank you.

Thank you. I appreciate the kind words and thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike

Sorry, not sure what you're asking?

Sorry got redundant should’ve read it first

Glad the video was helpful. Yes, the crankshaft harmonic balancer bolt is a torque to yield bolt and therefore a one time use. It should be replaced after each removal and should not be reused. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike

Yeah my bad. It IS a left hand thread but not sure why I said counter clockwise. It should be clockwise.

Thank you. I hope to get some more videos posted over the winter as well. Thank you for taking the time watch and follow. Mike

Thank you Anders. I very much appreciate it my friend. Thank you for your long time support. Mike

Thank you very much for the kind words and thank you for taking the time to watch. Glad to hear the video was helpful. Mike

I cannot answer that. I have never run one without the snap ring.

It's hard to say with shop rates being so widely priced these days. My suggestion however, is not to shop a mechanic or shop by price alone. Choose one that she's quality work and is honest or you'll end up paying more in the long run. Thank you for taking the time to watch. Mike

Thank you. Glad the video was helpful. Thank you for taking the time to watch and for the comments. Mike

​@@zmotorsports62 Hi, I am getting a P0300 code after replacing the chains. Do you have any idea of what could be causing this?

Not sure why you'd be getting a random misfire. If the cam chains were installed incorrectly I would think that you would get a camshaft variation code rather than a misfire code.

@zmotorsports62 I did replace all the fuel injectors about a month prior to the timing chain. Could it be spark plugs or ignition coils?

Sorry, plugs and/or ignition coils will be specific to one cylinder and therefore have a DTC set for one specific cylinder that is misfiring, not a P0300 which is multiple and random misfires. Check to see if you have a vacuum leak.

I have no personal experience with those gaskets so can't comment. If memory serves that style gasket sealed around the fastener and did not require grommets around the bolts. Can't remember specifically as it's been a while. Sorry

Thank you. It's been a lifetime of work to acquire and equip.

Both on irv2.com and monacoers.org my username is zmotorsports. If you search under that and FASS you should find the pictures as I did follow up on both showing the revised fuel tank vent that I fabricated. As far as steering stabilizer, I didn't waste my time with that and just fabricated a Watts link for the front. I also have a couple videos on that modification. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike

@@zmotorsports62 Thanks for getting back so quickly. Good morning Mike, I guess I am always looking for that elusive "how can I make it better?" I did watch your videos on the Watts linkage install also. And then proceeded to install the front Watts linkage and rear crossmembers from Mike Hughes @ MonacoWatts. I also installed the Safe T Plus. I was a truck driver for 25 yrs and have become accustomed to how I want my rig to steer down the road. The addition of an adjustable on the fly mechanism on the Safe T Plus seems like it might be a way of reducing driver fatigue. I still get pushed around a bit by passing trucks, wind, and the slope of the highway. Just looking to see if I can add this to my tool box. I was also wondering how much more benefit, in steering, you are getting because of the tag axle? I realize that must have some effect on the stabilization. On another note. The previous owner had a PacBrake exhaust brake installed. He also add a Banks Ottomind programmer, which also incorporates EGT and boost gauge. It was obviously NOT installed by Banks. The sensor for the EGT is supposed to be mounted in the rear exhaust port, it is currently located 8" behind the turbo. One of the "things" I do is "look over" my coach to check for visually occuring issues. I also noticed that the air actuator for the PacBrake is vertical and not horizontal. Anyway, I digress, where I am really going is since I have to pull the turbo to drill the hole in the exhaust manifold for the EGT sensor, and I am going to replace the PacBrake, just as the old one is say 25yrs old. Is this the time to also rebuild the turbo? Perhaps add some better parts that are available today? billet compressor wheel, turbo shaft, machined bearing housing? Thoughts? Not trying to increase power, just don't want to break down somewhere. Headed off to check out your other picts on IRV2 and Monacoers 1999 Monaco Windsor 38' 106K 8.3L ISC. Also adding Birdseye Camera system. Really like to remodel my dash with easier to see gauges and rearrangement. Not all gauges are driver friendly. Thanks for any advice that you share.

@jefreyjohnson4294 yes, the tag axle definitely aids in keeping the coach going straight down the road. Years ago when I was reading many of the issues people were having with their 8-bag Roadmasters wandering issues I kept asking myself why I wasn't experiencing any of that and figured it must be due to the tag axle. I had replaced all of my bushings with the Atro bushings with very little, if any, effect. But again, I wasn't really having any issues. It was more curiosity than anything, I fabricated and installed the Watts link on our coach and noticed a slight improvement, but mainly only on those long constant radius curves where I didn't have to continue to add input to the wheel. As for driver fatigue, I really don't experience that much and it has you be a hell of a wind or gust to push us around. Many times I have to look closely at the trees or grass along the road to tell if the wind is blowing. We just returned last week from South Dakota and we drive the whole 650-miles home in one day without any issues of fatigue. Stopped once for fuel and once to fix a sandwich and stretch our legs, other than that drove the 11-hours home pretty comfortable. Makes me want a newer coach less and less these days as I have ours pretty dialed in.

The fitting I used was stainless steel into the aluminum fuel tank. I also must mention that I redid my return line this year. For the first couple of years and ~10k miles I had zero issues. However, early this year I had some fuel discharge out of the combined return/rollover vent line during a trip through AZ this spring, so I separated the return line and vent valve and just ran the -10 return line to the street side factory bung in the aluminum fuel tank. I then fabricated a flange style of fitting and installed it on the curb side which I used for the vent valve. No more issues after separating and having the return line in its own bung and not shared. I have pictures of how I redid mine over on my coach's thread on irv2.com as well as on monacoers.org forum if you would like to see pictures. Best of luck on the install, you won't regret it. Although, with your common rail fuel system it is less problematic as the CAPS system.

@@zmotorsports62 thanks again.... my Monaco was built in 12 / 03 it has the caps injection system.

Thank you for the kind words. With the clip being plastic you are probably correct that it will be pulverized and/or melt but it could still get lodged in an oil pickup tube or oil galley and therefore could be directly responsible for a catastrophic failure so I would not be inclined to recommend running it until the clip is retrieved. Ultimately that would have to be your call. Keep in mind that if or when it fails, Murphy's law states it will be at the most inopportune time and if you are like me, it will be a constant worry and always on your mind. Best of luck. Mike

@@zmotorsports62 Thank YOU for the quick response. Do you have any tricks or thoughts on a way to extract?

@Jurornumber5 not really. The trick that you tried using a vacuum and tube would be the best way if it worked. Anything else I think will be more invasive.

@@zmotorsports62 OK. I think that deserves a second try then. When I first did it, some oil started to shoot up the clear silicone tubing, so I shut it down. I will use a mini shop-vac and sacrifice it if necessary, on the second attempt. I'll let you know if I succeed. Thanks again for your time and I will look forward to your future videos and catch up on your past videos.

Thank you and thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike

True, but we'll never travel via hotels. For us RV'ing is a lifestyle, not about cheapest way to travel. There are much cheaper ways to travel, but it's about the journey, not the destination. If looking at any coach regardless of year, I highly recommend insisting on maintenance records. If someone selling has all of the maintenance documentation I suggest not lowballing them and pay them for their well maintained stewardship over the rig. If someone chooses not to keep records, then I don't feel their coach should bring the same money as someone who did. But that's just my opinion. Thanks for taking the time to watch. Mike

Thanks for the reply. That’s good advice.

You're very welcome. You are right, rebuilding the turbo is the easy part, getting it in and out of the engine bay is a bit more work. 😜 Thank you for taking the time to watch and thank you for the comments. Mike

@@zmotorsports62 Mike, I rebuilt my turbo. I have a question. I purchased the quad rings by the part numbers you supplied. The plunger has some resistance going in and out. Probably because of the new rings. Will this loosen up over time and usage? I want to know if this seems correct before I tear into my truck or blow my turbo up. Thank you

@robertwalker5868 yes, the new quad rings did add some resistance, but a little Sil-Glide helps keep it at minimum. Didn't have any effect on the operation once installed.

@@zmotorsports62 PERFECT!! I did exactly as you did on the rebuild. Thank you and again GREAT VIDEO!!

I purchased the KC Turbo rebuild kit but I have no affiliation nor was I sponsored. I suggest using one with the 360-degree thrust bearing though. I used the LiquiMoly LM48 and for the O-rings I only use Sil-Glyde. Hope that helps. Mike

I've also heard good and bad, but have not personally had any adverse effects from using it. I do recommend clearancing the unison ring and not relying slowly on anti-seize.

Glad to hear the videos are helpful. Thank you for taking the time to watch and especially for the comments. Mike