Thank you! I have a 16 year old EcoTec 837 (serial number starts 210835, so I believe that is the 35th week of 2008), I had noticed the diverter motor was making a bit more noise, sounding like it was struggling a bit, so I have added some grease to the spindle through the inspection hole, to save trying to take it apart, and it sounds much better now!
Excellent video Mark many many thanks for this, I am looking at a failed Vailant tomorrow and this may cut down some time spent faultfinding :) Keep up the good work! :)
Thanks for your help, regarding diverter valve, I had the boiler short cycling only for hot water, and it was the spring loaded valve in the stuck open position, a replacement solved it.
Thanks, mine was not leaking, but making a lot of noise every time it moved which probably meant it was very dry. Put some silicon on it and now much quieter. Always wondered why this valve activates randomly during heating, even when no hot water is being drawn.
Excellent video Mark.Many thanks. After trying to replace the diverter valve cartridge, I over tightened diverter valve's "motor retaing nut" and it broke. Do you know anywhere that I can buy the motor retaining nut only , not the whole plastic set?
Excellent video. When servicing the spindle. Do you have to drain the boiler down first. Since if the shaft is seized and one is not careful would the white plastic assembly come out . And you would have a flood situation? Thanks
If it did come out you would have a flood. But its under pressure all the time from boiler system pressure. So wont come out unless you unclip it from the sides.
Hola muy interesantes tus vídeos te propongo poner subtítulos en español para tus seguidores de España y nuestros hermanos que hablan español que somos muchos y nos interesa tu contenido. Un saludo desde Cantabria 🇪🇦
Hi Mark Vaillant Eco Boiler not heating radiators. What I found the brass nut holding the diverter had become very loose to the point it was ready to fall off. I what I need to know the shaft that screws into the motor is there a position setting for this shaft. If I operate the diverter by hand I can get the radiators red hot when we have a bath I have to pull the diverter shaft back to get hot water, I just can't seem to find the correct position for this shaft in the motor. Thank You
Hi great video on the greasing of the diverter valve, but because there is a inspection hole at the top of thd valve motor assembly, can't you regrease the shaft from this hole using the front reset button to get the shift to move in and out greasing the dry running O ring. Regards Dave Porter London
Mark, my valliant ecotech plus 831 has a drip at the bottom of the divertor vale. It has been slowly losing water needs top up every month. But recently i just put it in hot water mode and it need top up every other day. What greese do i need to greese up the spindle.
Hi Mark just a quick update.i was told I needed a new back plate.so I went and got 2 o rings at£3.74.and Did it myself whilst cooking Sunday dinner.and yes it was fab .and fix the leek.
It's very easy to get to the o-rings that seal on the spindle shaft and replace them. O-rings are very cheap and it's the only thing that need replacing, and not the entire diverter valve. You can get a tool to remove the cartridge. Then remove the retainer washer, and the o-rings are easy removed. th-cam.com/video/FsaE4aLehrE/w-d-xo.html
I have one of those boilers, and recently I've noticed that when the central heating comes on, the radiators only get lukewarm until I run a hot water tap till the water gets hot. Then the radiators heat up like they should. Could it be the diverter valve sticking, and would this simple fix help?
So let me get this straight, you are saying a “DIY’er” can do this maintenance?? But the diverter is inside the boiler! Your saying an unqualified person can do this?!? But unqualified removing a front cover ( critical case seal!! ) is ok?? It’s against gas regs!!!! If that case isn’t put back correctly and a burner/ flue seal fails then POC could enter the room!! Remember these are positive pressure from the outlet of the fan onwards!!! YOUR ADVICE IS FLAWED AND DANGEROUS!!!!!!
I was just about to write the same thing ,after watching some of his videos offering poor advice, no way should any gas safe engineer be endorsing a DIYer to be removing the case of a balanced flue appliance, absolutely clueless !
@@NeilRidley1 absolutely crazy!! And another video showing people how to “fix” and F76 fault by just changing the thermal fuse instead of the complete heat exchanger!! This guy is dangerous!!
Can I take the case off my gas appliance? It depends on whether the case is purely decorative or whether it is an integral part of the appliance. Decorative casing: These cases can usually be removed by the consumer e.g. can be lifted off or are hinged panels and do not need to be unscrewed. A decorative case can be removed safely by the consumer or anybody else remembering to follow any manufacturer's instructions and warning labels and making sure you have safely isolated any electrical parts. However, if you are in any doubt, always use a Gas Safe registered engineer. Integral casing: Many appliances have cases, which in addition to being decorative, function as a part of the combustion circuit and form an important seal around the gas carrying components e.g. burner, combustion chamber, gas valve etc. If removing the case involves undoing a number of screws, this normally means it is a functional case and it should not be removed by the consumer or a person who is not Gas Safe registered.
In the case of these vaillant /gloworm /heatline shared architecture boilers, the front cover is purely decorative and not sealed at all. This valve is a weak point and well within the realms of DIYer capabilities, also it's not near any gas, combustion or pressure parts. People are generally smart enough to leave the "explody" bits to the professionals and handle basic maintenance of wear and tear items like these themselves - whatever the law or regs say. That's the reality.
@@TheBadoctopus your as clueless as this muppet if you believe the front cover of a vaillant ecotec does not form part of the case seal and if you are gas safe registered it’s time you resit your ACS
@@TheBadoctopus no you’re completely wrong, if you look on page 10 and 11 of valiants part list, item number 7 is the called the cover, that’s the front panel swing arm which covers the controls, this you are allowed to change yourself as a diy’er, but to remove the whole front panel you need to be gas safe registered as inside it’s covered in a foam seal, that front panel is part of the burner assembly because it’s a negative pressure flue if you look at the black plastic air duct inside it’s attached to the fan and that’s on the gas valve, negative pressure flues push the products of combustion out of the flue which in turn draws air in from outside into the boiler itself not directly into the burner that’s why if I stabbed a hole into the case with a screwdriver your boiler would be categorised as AR “at risk of causing damage to life” that’s why rubber grommets missing on wires in are classed as AR too
Thank you! I have a 16 year old EcoTec 837 (serial number starts 210835, so I believe that is the 35th week of 2008), I had noticed the diverter motor was making a bit more noise, sounding like it was struggling a bit, so I have added some grease to the spindle through the inspection hole, to save trying to take it apart, and it sounds much better now!
This is a very good video. Vaillant divetor valves are amongst the best
Excellent video Mark many many thanks for this, I am looking at a failed Vailant tomorrow and this may cut down some time spent faultfinding :) Keep up the good work! :)
top notch Mark, I used to think it was a design fault on the vaillant never thought it was simply the o-rings drying out.
Thank you very much for this useful sharing.
Thanks for your help, regarding diverter valve, I had the boiler short cycling only for hot water, and it was the spring loaded valve in the stuck open position, a replacement solved it.
Very clear and concise Mark. Thank you for sharing
Thanks, mine was not leaking, but making a lot of noise every time it moved which probably meant it was very dry. Put some silicon on it and now much quieter. Always wondered why this valve activates randomly during heating, even when no hot water is being drawn.
Excellent video and explanation.
great, good video work very clear
This guy is brilliant!
thankyou Mark
Excellent video Mark.Many thanks. After trying to replace the diverter valve cartridge, I over tightened diverter valve's "motor retaing nut" and it broke.
Do you know anywhere that I can buy the motor retaining nut only , not the whole plastic set?
Excellent video. When servicing the spindle. Do you have to drain the boiler down first. Since if the shaft is seized and one is not careful would the white plastic assembly come out . And you would have a flood situation? Thanks
If it did come out you would have a flood. But its under pressure all the time from boiler system pressure. So wont come out unless you unclip it from the sides.
excellent instruction. My rads are getting warm when i use the hot water. The valve looks like it is working ie going in and out. Any suggestions?
Hola muy interesantes tus vídeos te propongo poner subtítulos en español para tus seguidores de España y nuestros hermanos que hablan español que somos muchos y nos interesa tu contenido. Un saludo desde Cantabria 🇪🇦
Hi Mark Vaillant Eco Boiler not heating radiators. What I found the brass nut holding the diverter had become very loose to the point it was ready to fall off. I what I need to know the shaft that screws into the motor is there a position setting for this shaft. If I operate the diverter by hand I can get the radiators red hot when we have a bath I have to pull the diverter shaft back to get hot water, I just can't seem to find the correct position for this shaft in the motor.
Thank You
Hi great video on the greasing of the diverter valve, but because there is a inspection hole at the top of thd valve motor assembly, can't you regrease the shaft from this hole using the front reset button to get the shift to move in and out greasing the dry running O ring. Regards Dave Porter London
Yes sure you can
How about grease the spindle through the little hole up there since you can see the spindle from there?
Mark, my valliant ecotech plus 831 has a drip at the bottom of the divertor vale. It has been slowly losing water needs top up every month. But recently i just put it in hot water mode and it need top up every other day. What greese do i need to greese up the spindle.
However when in heating mode it doesn't drip
Trying to get hold of silicone grease can we use plumbers grease instea
Does the motor screw left & screw right to pull the plunger in & out.
Hi my diverted valve is leaking at the back is this anything you have come across.many thanks.
Just unlucky. Probable just needs new seals. That does mean removing the whole Valve.
Hi Mark just a quick update.i was told I needed a new back plate.so I went and got 2 o rings at£3.74.and Did it myself whilst cooking Sunday dinner.and yes it was fab .and fix the leek.
I’ve changed my diverter valve and it’s still leaking when I put the heating on? Any tips pls
It's very easy to get to the o-rings that seal on the spindle shaft and replace them. O-rings are very cheap and it's the only thing that need replacing, and not the entire diverter valve. You can get a tool to remove the cartridge. Then remove the retainer washer, and the o-rings are easy removed. th-cam.com/video/FsaE4aLehrE/w-d-xo.html
I have one of those boilers, and recently I've noticed that when the central heating comes on, the radiators only get lukewarm until I run a hot water tap till the water gets hot. Then the radiators heat up like they should. Could it be the diverter valve sticking, and would this simple fix help?
Could this valve be the reason I only get luke warm water ?
Hello Mark is there a link on how to purge air from a Vaillant after installing a diverter cartridge?
th-cam.com/video/Lj5Tqwzw0uM/w-d-xo.html&t
So let me get this straight, you are saying a “DIY’er” can do this maintenance?? But the diverter is inside the boiler! Your saying an unqualified person can do this?!? But unqualified removing a front cover ( critical case seal!! ) is ok?? It’s against gas regs!!!! If that case isn’t put back correctly and a burner/ flue seal fails then POC could enter the room!! Remember these are positive pressure from the outlet of the fan onwards!!! YOUR ADVICE IS FLAWED AND DANGEROUS!!!!!!
I was just about to write the same thing ,after watching some of his videos offering poor advice, no way should any gas safe engineer be endorsing a DIYer to be removing the case of a balanced flue appliance, absolutely clueless !
@@NeilRidley1 absolutely crazy!! And another video showing people how to “fix” and F76 fault by just changing the thermal fuse instead of the complete heat exchanger!! This guy is dangerous!!
Are you seriously suggesting a non gas safe registered engineer to remove the front case on a vaillant boiler?
Can I take the case off my gas appliance?
It depends on whether the case is purely decorative or whether it is an integral part of the appliance.
Decorative casing: These cases can usually be removed by the consumer e.g. can be lifted off or are hinged panels and do not need to be unscrewed. A decorative case can be removed safely by the consumer or anybody else remembering to follow any manufacturer's instructions and warning labels and making sure you have safely isolated any electrical parts. However, if you are in any doubt, always use a Gas Safe registered engineer.
Integral casing: Many appliances have cases, which in addition to being decorative, function as a part of the combustion circuit and form an important seal around the gas carrying components e.g. burner, combustion chamber, gas valve etc. If removing the case involves undoing a number of screws, this normally means it is a functional case and it should not be removed by the consumer or a person who is not Gas Safe registered.
In the case of these vaillant /gloworm /heatline shared architecture boilers, the front cover is purely decorative and not sealed at all. This valve is a weak point and well within the realms of DIYer capabilities, also it's not near any gas, combustion or pressure parts.
People are generally smart enough to leave the "explody" bits to the professionals and handle basic maintenance of wear and tear items like these themselves - whatever the law or regs say. That's the reality.
@@TheBadoctopus your as clueless as this muppet if you believe the front cover of a vaillant ecotec does not form part of the case seal and if you are gas safe registered it’s time you resit your ACS
@@TheBadoctopus no you’re completely wrong, if you look on page 10 and 11 of valiants part list, item number 7 is the called the cover, that’s the front panel swing arm which covers the controls, this you are allowed to change yourself as a diy’er, but to remove the whole front panel you need to be gas safe registered as inside it’s covered in a foam seal, that front panel is part of the burner assembly because it’s a negative pressure flue if you look at the black plastic air duct inside it’s attached to the fan and that’s on the gas valve, negative pressure flues push the products of combustion out of the flue which in turn draws air in from outside into the boiler itself not directly into the burner that’s why if I stabbed a hole into the case with a screwdriver your boiler would be categorised as AR “at risk of causing damage to life” that’s why rubber grommets missing on wires in are classed as AR too
@@TheBadoctopus