5:40 Great tip! I didn't know that could be done. That's a great feature. Linking spot meter point to the auto focus point. 6:40 and 7:00 Another one. Thanks Robin!
Great tips Robin! One more tip: You can use the given autofocuspoints while using the EVF (camera screen is off) and touching/scrolling with your finger on the screen. So you don't need the arrow buttons and be much faster. If this is not working for you: Double tap the touchscreen while it's off and the function should work. If you don't wanna use this technique but your nose activates it sometimes you can turn it off with a double tap on the touchscreen while the screen is off.
Great!!. I have already used three of the tips. I never understood ON2, I had never thought about reset lens and I had not set AF/spot metering correctly. I use your videos to continuously improve the way I use my camera. Highly recommend them.
2:53 Brilliant!😂😅🤣 Just an excellent video! Simple and really information dense. I'm going to see if I can find any of these features on my two OMD EM10IIs. By the way, my EM10IIs have some different features. The one with more features but less explanatory text is the earlier firmware version, surprisingly. When I checked the firmware version, those extra features disappeared! I did a reset and they came back! For example, it has about 3x as many self timer modes as the other EM10II. I need to make a video about it ... someday!🤣
Just found your channel, greatness! I have learned more today watching 3-4 videos than in the past year. Especially like the detailed menu instructions!
Thank you for posting this video! I have a question about the Linking AF to Spot Metering. At 5:47 in the vide, you checked off "Spot"... Why not check off all three boxes? Is there any down side to not use all of them? Thanks for all the videos and help that you provide. Greg
Thanks Robin. Very informative tips and reminders for sure. ON 2 is also very useful while in C-AF mode especially for moving subjects such as birds. Select all focus points and then you will get a shifting cluster group of focus points which will be highlighted.
One thing I really wish Olympus would add to Workspace is for the software to show where the focus point was in the photo.
Hi Robin, thanks a lot for these useful tips. I think its very useful for me and some other. Stay healthy and best regards from Germany. Stay relax when drinking the Coffee ;-)
Robin this was very helpful. I also saw your original 5 AF Tips, - Would like to request tips on Continuous AF and AF tracking. I try to use it for Birds in Flight but I struggle using these modes.
At the moment Oly's CAF+Tracking is not very effective for birds in flight. A better option is to use CAF with the three or five group AF area. Depending on what lens you are using or the distance of the subject you may or may not want to enable center point priority for the AF area. I hope that helps.
@@Jay19876 thanks, that is what I found also. The only option I found is what you recommended using CAF with area AF. I found that this the best I found but not great. Thanks for confirming. I thought I was not using it correctly??
I don't shoot birds in flight, and now that I am stuck at home in urban environment it is even more difficult to do so. Shooting fast moving objects is a skill that not many photographers have, I certainly don't have it.
@@michaelkrueger17 If you don't mind me asking, what lens do you typically use (i.e. the Oly 40-150mm F2.8, Oly 300mm F4 Pro) and which camera model do you use for capturing birds in flight? The 300mm takes substantially more practice to keep the bird in the AF area because of the much smaller field of view. Also, the 40-150 F2.8 is faster at acquiring focus due to its shorter focal lengths and its two linear drive motors that can rack focus extremely fast while maintaining accuracy.
@@Jay19876 If you use long telephotos, here's an extremely useful accessory to have: the Olympus EE-1 Dot Sight. It's especially useful for photographing birds in flight.
Your videos always make me happy! Incidentally, I just checked my cameras for tomorrow's assignment and had some major focusing problems in low light with the contrast AF (em5 II). Thanks to all the gods of Olympus for focus peaking ;-) I hope the lock down ends soon and you can go back to street photography! Cheers!
Thanks Robin for another very helpful video. I am going to try out your tips immediately. I would also like to hear sth about the AF modes for moving subjects.
Poor little guy did a face plant! Once again you have made another excellent video Robin, I use the Ok button to return to the center frame all the time, now where did I hear that from? Oh yeah it was you!
Thanks Rich, appreciate the kind words and I am glad I can help out. The OK hold down for center focus function is so useful I guess it is harmless to repeat it here, in case others miss it.
As always very useful video... I just bought an E-m1 mark ii... Will take a look at all the video you did on this camera to learn a lot... Thanks a lot
Didn't know the one about focus peaking! I'll give i t a try. Very useful the reset focus and the link spot metering to AF point, i love those, Thank you Robin.
Hi Robin, is there a video on these focus boxes. How do I set up in M so I can just control the shutter and f-stop and not keep seeing boxes appearing?
Love your work, Robin. Can you please explain what phase detect auto focus means. (I just bought a used EM1 mk II used) and am hoping for more reliable sharpness. As a matter of fact I can only afford used non pro lenses. I would enjoy a segment comparing pix with similar pro and non pro lenses. This is an expensive hobby but I love it. How do you take your coffee?
Robin; as always thanks for your excellent reviews. I think there is need for a video comparing the Continuous Auto-Focus (CAF) and Face Detect (FD) capabilities of the new EM1 MKIII vs the current CAF and FD on EM5 MKIII and EM1 MKII. I note some confusion by some reviewers on the CAF and FD capabilities of Olympus cameras suggesting that the CAF and FD features of the EM5 MKIII and EM1 MKII (with all current firmware updates) are the same as that on the EM1 MKIII, which I believe to not be true. I believe the EM1 MKIII is unique in its capabilities for CAF and FD and eye detect and that it is possible these capabilities may be shared with other Olympus cameras in the future (firmware updates) IF the microprocessors on those other cameras can handle the computing load required. Just a suggestion; hopefully a good one.
Good tips, Robin! I've always wondered what the 'Lens Reset' was good for; now it can save me some hassle. BTW: Pressing and holding the OK button does not return the focus point to the middle on my E-M5 MkIII. But I've already defined a custom button to return to the middle as my home focus point.
Hi Robin. Thank you very much for your video. It would be great to make a video about continuous autofocus and shooting speeds. With moving objects, for example a game of soccer or baseball. Thank you
Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't think I am able to do that anytime soon. I am still sort of stuck at home (lockdown) and even after the lockdown is lifted I don't think sports events are allowed. I can talk or make a video about the techniques but without actual demonstration it is very, very difficult to explain certain things. I got quite a negative feedback the last time I did this - demonstrating low light shooting with high ISO on fast moving subjects, I demonstrated it on a Lego Figure just to prove the high ISO noise (which has nothing to do with movement) and I was stabbed multiple times left right center and back for not slowing down my shutter speed and lowering my ISO. God. I am NOT going to go through that again. I hope you understand.
@@robinwong Well Robin, some people are just never satisfied with your great free advice!🙄 That's their problem. I would remove any of their comments and block them!🤣👍
Good video, I have a question, how to deactivate the light that help focus? I only want to deactivate it in order to make street photography without attracting the attention of the people. I will save it at my C1 mode
Wondering if there is a quick way of turning off spot metering on the focus point, for example, if you’re shooting a silhouette, you don’t want them linked. Just thinking that with back button focusing you may not need them linked at all as metering still works with half-press of the shutter, so it’d be metering first, BBF after. Tricky.
Idea for another video: I would be interested in a video on these topics: how you chimp your photos and do you dump images from the camera or do you do you import them all and dump the unusable ones there, when you have a bigger view.I would like to be more efficient in keeping the good and dumping the bad photos.
Depends on the shoot. For professional/work environment, I don't delete photos. I keep everything, just in case. For personal shoots, say a street photography session, yes I delete unwanted photos on the spot, because those are non-consequential and I want to have less photos to deal with at the end of the day.
Excellent advice! I look forward to using your tips in the field. New Question: whenever I change batteries, it seems that the metadata time of day a picture was taken is way off. I have an EM5 Mkii. Is this a common event or am I doing something wrong? I look forward to your next video!
Greetings Robin, How do I link multiple focus points (ie 5, 9, or 20 points) with AE? Like you can for spot focus point. (OMD M1 Mark III). Love your videos!!! Thanks Joe
To use the touchscreen and don't loose the precise AF point switch to manual focus after the AF has focused. Now you can gently use the touch screen to reduce camera shaking even more.
Hi Robin! I've really enjoyed your channel - thank you for providing great and USEFUL content in a very clear manner! I have a question for your regarding my EM1 II and my Zuiko ED 100-400 lens. I was shooting the moon eclipse 2 days ago from my backyard. I could not figure out how to focus on the moon when it became dark red. Camera just wouldn't do it. I tried in manual focusing mode (both camera and lens) and tried in auto mode. One of my photo friends said that the technique is to start early when the moon is bright, use auto-focus to set the initial focus, then to switch to manual mode and focus manually. I tried that - same result - could not get a sharp image especially in zoom. What surprised me the most is that I could not set the lens to Infinity mode as you could with old 35mm SLR cameras and lenses. What am I missing? Would appreciate any tips from you for shooting a lunar eclipse. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words, glad I can share. I turn the Fn lever OFF. I explained this in my previous OM-D tips video, it has caused me many problems in the past and I have missed many important shots because of the Fn switch. Never again.
You can, if that is your preference. I generally still have the lens reset ON because for street photography I do want the lens to focus far, not near.
Hi, Robin. Thank you again for your great content. Fixing the green AF square does not work with my EM1. Any hint? TXS, I will buy you a coffee.... Omy
Wow Robin! You are very good at describing these features - thank you. I’m currently trying to decide between the E-M5 III and the E-M1 III. The price difference is significant so I wanted to ask your opinion of general camera use and change of AF point selection while wearing cycling gloves. I know the E-M1 III will be better but do you think that the E-M5 III can be effectively used with gloves when speed of changing AF point is important?
Hi Robin. 👋 I've been watching your videos since I got my m10 iii. I Decided to buy a refurbished e5 ii but I wanted to have the focus point always on (green square). I couldn't find it in the menu. I guess there is no always on focus point on e5 ii. I'm sad. Please help. Thanks
Great set of tips But not sure I understand the focus point selection tip. For cameras with the 121 cross type auto focus points do you mean by using the touch screen you do not select one of these or does this mean using the touch screen does not activate the phase detect part of the auto focus just the contrast detect part? I have always used the rear screen touch, a left over from my E-P5 usage. Is phase detect used in single AF as well as continuous focus, as this has been discussed in the forums to no definite solution that I have seen.
The exact locations of the phase detect AF sensors are placed exactly on the default AF selection mode, hence if you use those points you will have maximum AF sensitivity, speed and accuracy. By selecting the LCD touch screen AF, a different box appears and they may not be able to maximise the potential of the phase detect AF. For most shooting situations this is not an issue but for run and gun photographer and that split second reaction can make or break the shot, I highly recommend using the default AF selection positions.
Hi Robin great tips once again I'm fairly new to macro and have recently baught the OMD EM1 mk III (amazing camera!) and the 60mm F.2.8 macro lens. however at the moment, to get used to the camera I've got it set to P mode and using auto focus but have been experiencing focus "issues" were the camera seems to just concentrate on a narrow band of focus (like a" line" across the middle of the lens) with everything surrounding it out of focus and this seems to happen every time I try and frame the shot. is this probably to do with were the focus is set on the grid?? would really appreciate any help to resolve this issue cheers.
I’d love to know this too, that would be my first mirrorless camera if it were to happen. Hopefully Robin knows something. Then again that might become too similar to an em5 iii for Olympus, especially if it also gets the newer sensor
I'd guess Olympus would want to clearly differentiate their product lines. E-M10 will not have high end features, eg phase detect AF. That is reserved for top tiered Olympus cameras.
For selecting autofocus point location on the em1 mark ii, i use my thumb on the rear monitor while looking through the evf. I find this method very fast and less fumbly than using the arrow pad for selecting autofocus point location. This is not the same as robin explained on the video while viewing the image on the rear monitor. This method only works while looking through the evf and uses the monitor as a sort of joystick. Menu > A2 AF Targeting pad > On. This also allows selection of the autofocus point mode either by dials or arrow pad. That can be customized in the above menu through [+] Custom Settings. Note: J1 Touchscreen Settings > On must also be set for this to work. The downside is that this does not work with gloves.
I have shared this in my previous AF tips for OM-D video. AF Targeting Pad. Please see that video if you have not. As I mentioned, I won't repeat my tips I have shared in that previous video.
Let`s do this (with a big smile in his voice) ---- I love Robin! lol
You are a delight in this challenging world. I visit to learn and feel like you are a longtime friend. Thank you Robin!
Finally got my hands on mine today and played with it for the last 3 hours. Now I'm jumping around all of your videos to get a crash course😆
5:40 Great tip! I didn't know that could be done. That's a great feature. Linking spot meter point to the auto focus point. 6:40 and 7:00 Another one. Thanks Robin!
Thank you for so generously sharing the functionality of the Olympus.
Great tips Robin! One more tip: You can use the given autofocuspoints while using the EVF (camera screen is off) and touching/scrolling with your finger on the screen. So you don't need the arrow buttons and be much faster. If this is not working for you: Double tap the touchscreen while it's off and the function should work. If you don't wanna use this technique but your nose activates it sometimes you can turn it off with a double tap on the touchscreen while the screen is off.
You are simply the BEST when it comes to giving me useful information for my Olympus. Thank you so much. Oh, and I love your enthusiasm!
2:11 There is fantastic background blur in that bird photo!
Came back to this video , and made sure I still had the settings advised . Thank you .
Great!!. I have already used three of the tips. I never understood ON2, I had never thought about reset lens and I had not set AF/spot metering correctly. I use your videos to continuously improve the way I use my camera. Highly recommend them.
Thanks Judith, glad you like the video and found the tips useful!
now we just have to trust oly firmware update saves the settings and wont crash :)
@@robinwong Those three tips in particular are very useful indeed and it's a hugely useful video. Thanks!
2:53 Brilliant!😂😅🤣 Just an excellent video! Simple and really information dense. I'm going to see if I can find any of these features on my two OMD EM10IIs. By the way, my EM10IIs have some different features. The one with more features but less explanatory text is the earlier firmware version, surprisingly. When I checked the firmware version, those extra features disappeared! I did a reset and they came back! For example, it has about 3x as many self timer modes as the other EM10II. I need to make a video about it ... someday!🤣
Just found your channel, greatness! I have learned more today watching 3-4 videos than in the past year. Especially like the detailed menu instructions!
These videos are very helpful for someone who is new to Olympus, they shorten the learning curve. Thank you.
Thank you for posting this video! I have a question about the Linking AF to Spot Metering. At 5:47 in the vide, you checked off "Spot"... Why not check off all three boxes? Is there any down side to not use all of them?
Thanks for all the videos and help that you provide.
Greg
The reason why I love my M1 III, is your tipps and tricks 👍
Robin, you know your cameras very well! Thanks again...
Thanks, I am glad I can share my knowledge here.
Love that tip to get the pointer back to the center. Thanks Robin.
Thanks Robin. Very informative tips and reminders for sure.
ON 2 is also very useful while in C-AF mode especially for moving subjects such as birds. Select all focus points and then you will get a shifting cluster group of focus points which will be highlighted.
One thing I really wish Olympus would add to Workspace is for the software to show where the focus point was in the photo.
Brilliant. This is more useful to me than the 1st video. Well done and thanks Robin.
Hi Robin, thanks a lot for these useful tips. I think its very useful for me and some other. Stay healthy and best regards from Germany. Stay relax when drinking the Coffee ;-)
Yeah, you have to assign peaking and/or magnify to a button for it to work in manual focus mode too. That one tripped me up for bit.
Good tips Robin!
Check out my AF/manual focusing tips video. You don't need to assign anything in manual focus, the peaking/magnify can work automatically.
Robin Wong, sorry I meant to say with non-cpu lenses. I’m using a Voigtlander 17.5 f/0.95.
Lately I've been trying to use spot metering more often. Aligning spot metering with the focus point is really helpful!
Wow Robin, thanks for those great tips . Your most helpful and i reckon Olympus should pay you A WHOLE LOT OF MONEY. 👍👍
Robin this was very helpful. I also saw your original 5 AF Tips, - Would like to request tips on Continuous AF and AF tracking. I try to use it for Birds in Flight but I struggle using these modes.
At the moment Oly's CAF+Tracking is not very effective for birds in flight. A better option is to use CAF with the three or five group AF area. Depending on what lens you are using or the distance of the subject you may or may not want to enable center point priority for the AF area. I hope that helps.
@@Jay19876 thanks, that is what I found also. The only option I found is what you recommended using CAF with area AF. I found that this the best I found but not great. Thanks for confirming. I thought I was not using it correctly??
I don't shoot birds in flight, and now that I am stuck at home in urban environment it is even more difficult to do so. Shooting fast moving objects is a skill that not many photographers have, I certainly don't have it.
@@michaelkrueger17 If you don't mind me asking, what lens do you typically use (i.e. the Oly 40-150mm F2.8, Oly 300mm F4 Pro) and which camera model do you use for capturing birds in flight? The 300mm takes substantially more practice to keep the bird in the AF area because of the much smaller field of view. Also, the 40-150 F2.8 is faster at acquiring focus due to its shorter focal lengths and its two linear drive motors that can rack focus extremely fast while maintaining accuracy.
@@Jay19876 If you use long telephotos, here's an extremely useful accessory to have: the Olympus EE-1 Dot Sight. It's especially useful for photographing birds in flight.
Your videos always make me happy!
Incidentally, I just checked my cameras for tomorrow's assignment and had some major focusing problems in low light with the contrast AF (em5 II). Thanks to all the gods of Olympus for focus peaking ;-)
I hope the lock down ends soon and you can go back to street photography!
Cheers!
As usual, an excellent straight to the point video. Thank you!!
Thanks Mr Rabin very useful vdo for me.Iam useing OMD EM1 last five years. I am great full to your TH-cam channel.
Such good tips Robin, thank you so much. Olympus cameras have so many awesome features.
Thanks Paul, appreciate the kind words.
Thank you for all these tips and all your work ! I really like all of your videos and contents you do . Thank you !
Thanks Andre, appreciate the kind words!
Magic... I had no idea about peaking. Thank you sir!
Just ordered an E-M10 Mk 3 (good prices nowadays) and waiting for delivery. Your videos have been helpful, thanks. Just bought you a coffee.
Thank you for making me laugh so hard watching you trying to make a good video for us ( watching those bloopers at the end ...) 😄😄😄
Thanks Robin for another very helpful video. I am going to try out your tips immediately. I would also like to hear sth about the AF modes for moving subjects.
Please see my previous AF tip video if you have not. I talked about C-AF there.
Poor little guy did a face plant! Once again you have made another excellent video Robin, I use the Ok button to return to the center frame all the time, now where did I hear that from? Oh yeah it was you!
Thanks Rich, appreciate the kind words and I am glad I can help out. The OK hold down for center focus function is so useful I guess it is harmless to repeat it here, in case others miss it.
@@robinwong You're absolutely right Robin it's very useful so I'm thinking it can be repeated in a few more videos!
As always very useful video... I just bought an E-m1 mark ii... Will take a look at all the video you did on this camera to learn a lot... Thanks a lot
Thanks, appreciate the kind words. Happy shooting with the E-M1 Mark II!
@@robinwong enjoy you coffees my friend ! cheers from france
Thank You Robin. Your tips have made me love my Oly even more.
Didn't know the one about focus peaking! I'll give i t a try. Very useful the reset focus and the link spot metering to AF point, i love those, Thank you Robin.
I never knew that there are so much for focusing.
Well done!
Fantastic video Robin!! The last part is so fun 😁👌
Thanks. Fun for you, but not fun for me though.
@@robinwong Absolutely 😉
Hi,Robin can em5 mark 11 lock spot meter and focus or direct me please ,very new to olympus ,enjoy your instruction,just awesome.
Thank you so much! Very useful tips! Greetings from Greece!
Hi Robin, is there a video on these focus boxes. How do I set up in M so I can just control the shutter and f-stop and not keep seeing boxes appearing?
Thank you so much again Robin. I would love to see a Video from you were you give us some Tips for the best Video Settings on the EM1MK3!
Thanks, but I am not a videographer though. I am a photographer.
Love your work, Robin. Can you please explain what phase detect auto focus means. (I just bought a used EM1 mk II used) and am hoping for more reliable sharpness. As a matter of fact I can only afford used non pro lenses. I would enjoy a segment comparing pix with similar pro and non pro lenses. This is an expensive hobby but I love it. How do you take your coffee?
Robin; as always thanks for your excellent reviews. I think there is need for a video comparing the Continuous Auto-Focus (CAF) and Face Detect (FD) capabilities of the new EM1 MKIII vs the current CAF and FD on EM5 MKIII and EM1 MKII. I note some confusion by some reviewers on the CAF and FD capabilities of Olympus cameras suggesting that the CAF and FD features of the EM5 MKIII and EM1 MKII (with all current firmware updates) are the same as that on the EM1 MKIII, which I believe to not be true. I believe the EM1 MKIII is unique in its capabilities for CAF and FD and eye detect and that it is possible these capabilities may be shared with other Olympus cameras in the future (firmware updates) IF the microprocessors on those other cameras can handle the computing load required. Just a suggestion; hopefully a good one.
Thank you for everything you do!
Good tips, Robin! I've always wondered what the 'Lens Reset' was good for; now it can save me some hassle. BTW: Pressing and holding the OK button does not return the focus point to the middle on my E-M5 MkIII. But I've already defined a custom button to return to the middle as my home focus point.
Hello Carl! Really? It works fine to my E-M5 MkII.
Hi Robin. Thank you very much for your video. It would be great to make a video about continuous autofocus and shooting speeds. With moving objects, for example a game of soccer or baseball. Thank you
Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't think I am able to do that anytime soon. I am still sort of stuck at home (lockdown) and even after the lockdown is lifted I don't think sports events are allowed. I can talk or make a video about the techniques but without actual demonstration it is very, very difficult to explain certain things. I got quite a negative feedback the last time I did this - demonstrating low light shooting with high ISO on fast moving subjects, I demonstrated it on a Lego Figure just to prove the high ISO noise (which has nothing to do with movement) and I was stabbed multiple times left right center and back for not slowing down my shutter speed and lowering my ISO. God. I am NOT going to go through that again. I hope you understand.
@@robinwong Well Robin, some people are just never satisfied with your great free advice!🙄 That's their problem. I would remove any of their comments and block them!🤣👍
Thanks a lot for the video. As always full of useful and handy tips. Much appreciated...
Thanks, I am glad I can help out a bit.
Thx for the focus centering way 😁 have been looking for this 😅
No worries, I have shared this in my many OM-D tips previous videos. Please do see those older videos, in case you miss anything important.
Very useful tips again, Robin. I can.t switch the af area pointer on my em5 II. Cannot find it in the A menu.
Don't think that is an option for older cameras, but all the new cameras have that now.
Good video, I have a question, how to deactivate the light that help focus? I only want to deactivate it in order to make street photography without attracting the attention of the people. I will save it at my C1 mode
Good job Robin, like always, you are the best!
Wondering if there is a quick way of turning off spot metering on the focus point, for example, if you’re shooting a silhouette, you don’t want them linked. Just thinking that with back button focusing you may not need them linked at all as metering still works with half-press of the shutter, so it’d be metering first, BBF after. Tricky.
You enthousiasm is wow !
Thank you so much! These are fantastic tips!
Idea for another video: I would be interested in a video on these topics: how you chimp your photos and do you dump images from the camera or do you do you import them all and dump the unusable ones there, when you have a bigger view.I would like to be more efficient in keeping the good and dumping the bad photos.
Depends on the shoot. For professional/work environment, I don't delete photos. I keep everything, just in case. For personal shoots, say a street photography session, yes I delete unwanted photos on the spot, because those are non-consequential and I want to have less photos to deal with at the end of the day.
Your videos are always so helpful
Excellent advice! I look forward to using your tips in the field.
New Question: whenever I change batteries, it seems that the metadata time of day a picture was taken is way off. I have an EM5 Mkii. Is this a common event or am I doing something wrong? I look forward to your next video!
Very helpful video. Thank you so much!
Greetings Robin,
How do I link multiple focus points (ie 5, 9, or 20 points) with AE? Like you can for spot focus point. (OMD M1 Mark III).
Love your videos!!!
Thanks
Joe
All useful tips Robin. Thanks 👍
Love yours videos,you are very nice person.Thank you.
Thanks, appreciate the kind words!
Great video Robin. Will the autofocus green box remain lit, tip #2, if you are using "back button focusing" or just the shutter button?
Thanks. I don't use BBF though, give it a try and see if it works?
Excellent tips! Thanks Robin.
Thanks for the kind words
To use the touchscreen and don't loose the precise AF point switch to manual focus after the AF has focused. Now you can gently use the touch screen to reduce camera shaking even more.
A cup of ☕️ for Robin 👍
Hi Robin! I've really enjoyed your channel - thank you for providing great and USEFUL content in a very clear manner! I have a question for your regarding my EM1 II and my Zuiko ED 100-400 lens. I was shooting the moon eclipse 2 days ago from my backyard. I could not figure out how to focus on the moon when it became dark red. Camera just wouldn't do it. I tried in manual focusing mode (both camera and lens) and tried in auto mode. One of my photo friends said that the technique is to start early when the moon is bright, use auto-focus to set the initial focus, then to switch to manual mode and focus manually. I tried that - same result - could not get a sharp image especially in zoom. What surprised me the most is that I could not set the lens to Infinity mode as you could with old 35mm SLR cameras and lenses. What am I missing? Would appreciate any tips from you for shooting a lunar eclipse. Thank you!
Excelent and so useful. I am sure there is so much more you can teach us. What do you use the fn leaver for?
Thanks for the kind words, glad I can share. I turn the Fn lever OFF. I explained this in my previous OM-D tips video, it has caused me many problems in the past and I have missed many important shots because of the Fn switch. Never again.
Very useful ! Thank you Robin :)
Your content is so helpful. Thankyou 🙂
Robin, one more question - what is the scenario for using focus peaking with Autofocus and what is the benefit.
The focus point is jumping all over when I am walking, how do I make it stay in the middle? Thnks
Can you leave Lens Reset off permanently...even if you are not shooting macro?
You can, if that is your preference. I generally still have the lens reset ON because for street photography I do want the lens to focus far, not near.
@@robinwong got it. Thanks Robin.
@@robinwong For street photography when you shoot a portrait you change Lens Reset to OFF ?
Hi, Robin. Thank you again for your great content. Fixing the green AF square does not work with my EM1. Any hint? TXS, I will buy you a coffee.... Omy
Uuuh, no answer for me????
Great tipps, thank you so much
Is focus peaking similar to depth of field preview?
Wow Robin! You are very good at describing these features - thank you. I’m currently trying to decide between the E-M5 III and the E-M1 III. The price difference is significant so I wanted to ask your opinion of general camera use and change of AF point selection while wearing cycling gloves. I know the E-M1 III will be better but do you think that the E-M5 III can be effectively used with gloves when speed of changing AF point is important?
The Buttons on EM5 Mark III is very small. EM1 III will be better to hold and spaced enough to avoid accidents.
Hi Robin,
I have M10 Mark3 but there is no option for 'Spot Meetering'(Tip3) on my camera. How can i setup my camera ?
That is great tip. Thanks Robin.
Another one well done. Thank you - coffee is on the way ;-)
Great tips, thx Robin
Cheers
Hi Robin. 👋 I've been watching your videos since I got my m10 iii. I Decided to buy a refurbished e5 ii but I wanted to have the focus point always on (green square). I couldn't find it in the menu. I guess there is no always on focus point on e5 ii. I'm sad. Please help. Thanks
I mean when half pressed. I want the green focus box to remain on until I make the shot. Thanks again for your great videos.
Great set of tips
But not sure I understand the focus point selection tip. For cameras with the 121 cross type auto focus points do you mean by using the touch screen you do not select one of these or does this mean using the touch screen does not activate the phase detect part of the auto focus just the contrast detect part?
I have always used the rear screen touch, a left over from my E-P5 usage.
Is phase detect used in single AF as well as continuous focus, as this has been discussed in the forums to no definite solution that I have seen.
The exact locations of the phase detect AF sensors are placed exactly on the default AF selection mode, hence if you use those points you will have maximum AF sensitivity, speed and accuracy. By selecting the LCD touch screen AF, a different box appears and they may not be able to maximise the potential of the phase detect AF. For most shooting situations this is not an issue but for run and gun photographer and that split second reaction can make or break the shot, I highly recommend using the default AF selection positions.
Awesome tips
Hi Robin great tips once again I'm fairly new to macro and have recently baught the OMD EM1 mk III (amazing camera!) and the 60mm F.2.8 macro lens. however at the moment, to get used to the camera I've got it set to P mode and using auto focus but have been experiencing focus "issues" were the camera seems to just concentrate on a narrow band of focus (like a" line" across the middle of the lens) with everything surrounding it out of focus and this seems to happen every time I try and frame the shot. is this probably to do with were the focus is set on the grid?? would really appreciate any help to resolve this issue cheers.
Great tips!
Cheers
Hi Robin. How to set focus to Infiniti ?
You are working too hard for us Robin. Informative as usual,had to go and change to On2...
No worries Gary, my pleasure to share!
Will the next version of the EM10 have phase detection? Assuming Olympus is still around by then...
I’d love to know this too, that would be my first mirrorless camera if it were to happen. Hopefully Robin knows something. Then again that might become too similar to an em5 iii for Olympus, especially if it also gets the newer sensor
I'd guess Olympus would want to clearly differentiate their product lines. E-M10 will not have high end features, eg phase detect AF. That is reserved for top tiered Olympus cameras.
@@robinwong Have you talked to Olympus about the next (if any) version of the EM10?
Bonjour Robin, merci mais , dommage qu’il n’y pas de sous titrage possible en Français
Pas de tout :D Est encroyable, tu parles pas anglais?
Thank you.
Thank you! Very helpful!
Cheers!
Thank you!
Thanks For the Video 🙏
Hi Robin, Can you link AF to spot metering on the Olympus om d 10 mkii ? I cant find the option E3.
Maybe not, I don't have an E-M10 Mark II, if you don't see the option most likely it is not there.
Anyone here stuck with AF Area Pointer ON1?
Since I use BBF, I do not find Pointer ON1 useful since I don't hold the BBF button down after focusing.
Oops that should be Pointer ON2 useful.
Yes, can't find AF area pointer ON2 in my em5 mkii menu, any one help please?
Is it available in Em5 mk2? It just give me the ON option. Doesnt show ON1 or ON2
I was now on ON2
For selecting autofocus point location on the em1 mark ii, i use my thumb on the rear monitor while looking through the evf. I find this method very fast and less fumbly than using the arrow pad for selecting autofocus point location. This is not the same as robin explained on the video while viewing the image on the rear monitor. This method only works while looking through the evf and uses the monitor as a sort of joystick. Menu > A2 AF Targeting pad > On. This also allows selection of the autofocus point mode either by dials or arrow pad. That can be customized in the above menu through [+] Custom Settings. Note: J1 Touchscreen Settings > On must also be set for this to work. The downside is that this does not work with gloves.
I have shared this in my previous AF tips for OM-D video. AF Targeting Pad. Please see that video if you have not. As I mentioned, I won't repeat my tips I have shared in that previous video.
Yeah, I am the first one to comment. :-)
Really enjoy contents that you created.
Brilliant