Optimizing DYNAMIC RANGE For Olympus OM-D Cameras
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Dynamic range is a popular topic when it comes to shooting with Micro Four Thirds system, and I notice a lot of people do not optimize the camera settings to get the best dynamic range possible. For example, shooting at ISO100/LOW instead of ISO200 will guarantee you losing one stop and more highlight recovery headroom, and not utilizing available tools to help the shooting process prioritizing dynamic range.
I compile a list of effective tips that can get the best dynamic range out of Olympus OM-D system.
0:00 Intro
0:28 Re-doing Same Topic
0:59 ISO200
2:24 Shoot RAW
4:09 Highlight/Shadow Warning
6:10 Highlight And Shadow Control
7:46 HDR Function
9:29 OM-LOG400 or Flat Profile
11:16 Conclusion/END
12:00 Outro
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Robin Wong makes photography fun
Great video Robin! This was really helpful. Looking forward to the rest of your content this year!
Happy New Year to you Robin. Great to see you back.
Happy new year Robin, thanks for all you do for us.
Thank you Robin, and a late Happy New Year to you. Thanks for the video on DR best practices. Found it helpful. Have a great 2022.
Thank you & Happy New Tear too :)
Thanks Robin. I found especially the red/blue warning very useful.
Robin, thanks again for easy to understand and use tips. I went to Olympus two years ago and your tips have really helped me get the most out of my camera.
Happy New Year from Italy Robin. Thanks for this video.
Insane, finally i found some one who can explain and show all those settings😮❤ cheers 😊
Happy New Year Robin, from Barcelona, Catalonia, you are one of the best TIP teacher in the net!!! Really appreciated your passioned work and the enthusiam that you put in your videos. Just amazing!!!
Hi Robin. I have loved watching all your videos on the OM D cameras.
I have learned Soo much about using my new M5 mk3. You explain everything very simply and I discover so much more with each video.... Thank you.
Thanks Robin; that information Re. Highlight/Shadow clipping information on the live view could come in very handy.
Excellent as always!
Hi Robin, thanks for another great video. I just upgraded from a Panasonic GX9 to an E-M1 MkIII, so this has really helped! The learning curve starts all over again...
Just came to say I loved the thumbnail so much! It's got that retro look to it, vhs vibes. And it suits this camera.
Thx) happy new year! 🙂
All the best for the new year and keep going with mft. Love it!
Happy New Year Leon!
Bonne et heureuse année Robin 🥂
Thanks Robin.
Thank you Robin, Happy New Year!
Happy New Year Heraldo!
Happy New Year Robin! I just wanted to thank you for all you have done to share your photographic expertise and knowledge of Olympus cameras. Your images never fail to impress me. Hope you have a very blessed 2022!
Happy New Year Greg! Thanks for the kind words.
Great advice. Thank you
Happy New Year, and thank you for your tips! In my opinion, another nice result of using the Hi-res feature is less noise. (also at 200 iso) But this is an another story.
Happy New Year, Robin. Highlights and shadow control is something I didn’t know about. Thanks very much for all your tips.
Happy New Year to you too Plato! Glad you found something new from this video!
Great tips! Happy New Year!
Very useful tips Robin. Thanks alot for your pedagogical content as alsways and happy New Year!
Happy New Year Jérémy!
Happy New Year Robin! This is such a useful video for getting the maximum dynamic range out of your Olympus. Backed up with excellent examples of the settings you discussed. Thanks for your time and effort doing this. Best wishes 📸
Thanks Jeff! Happy New Year to you too, and glad you found the tips useful!
Happy 2022 to you Robin!👍😊
Happy New Year to you too!
Happy New Year, Robin! Here’s to another year of photo ops!!
Happy New Year Annette! Thanks, and I wish you the same.
Very useful! I just also found out how to use the multi function button assignment on my EM10 Mark ii so I can use it for highlight and shadow control and avoid setting the color creator!
Great overview for optimizing dynamic range. All the best to you and your viewers in 2022!
Thanks, Happy New Year to you too!
Happy New Year, Robin! Great video as always!
Happy New Year Tomasz!
Happy New Year from France, Robin! Good idea these tips to start the year off right.
Thanks Pascal! Happy New Year!
Happy new year Robin ! Can you offer a tutorial for landscape photography , the optimal settings for operating / control/ exposure for EM-1 mk III please ?
Happy New Year Robin! ...and welcome back!
Thanks Brian, happy to be back, and Happy New Year to you too
Thanks Robin! A great informative video! Happy New Year!
Happy New Year to you too!
Happy New Year from Thailand!
Thanks for the useful tips. I used to love the highlight/shadow controls until my rear dial had died. This happened to both of my E-510 and E-M1.1 🥲
I have to do in-cam shadow adj. after shooting to recover the shadow area, which is also handy.
Happy New Year! Yeah the shadow/highlight control can be very useful.
Thank you, this was very helpful!
Happy new year from Italy
Very helpful. Thank you so much.
Happy new year and welcome back Robin good video, just changing my iso to 200.
Happy New Year David! Of course I'd stay at ISO200 as much as possible, but I won't hesitate to increase the ISO when needed (eg low light).
Great Video Robin! Thank You.
Thanks Doug and Happy New Year!
Happy New Year and..... LET'S DO THIS!!!
Happy New Year, Robin!
Happy New Year Ed!
Happy new year Robin
Happy New Year to you too Raffle!
Happy New Year! Great video.
Happy New Year Steve!
Thank you very much,as always it is a pleasure to learn with you. 2022 is our YEAR (I hope).😑🌴🌺🙏
Thanks Christine, and happy new year to you!
Happy new year to you Sir
Happy New Year to you too, Robin.
Can you please make a video on best focus for small group portraits? Thanks in advance.
Happy new year Robin! In Capture one you can add a “before/after” button to the top by customising. Then you can use the slider to compare on your videos in 2022...
Happy New Year Dominic!
The very best from Crete for 2022 Robin.
Thanks Gavin, Happy New Year to you too.
Using flash when applicable is a workaround for the lack of dynamic range problem. It will not extend the dr of the sensor but it will bring the shadow area within dr and will allow use of iso 200 for almost every shot. It will also allow to underexpose the sky to bring it within dr.
happy new year Robin ! I only use the HDR in Raw and normally take 3 pics and merge them in Lightroom.
I think this is the best option. I just commented that HDR should be configurable, without which it's too restrictive IMO.
Thank you very much , Robin... 👌👍👍🙏🙏
Happy New Year... 👋🙋 🌠🌠🎄🎄🎄🎄👑👑👑🎁🎁💖💖💖
Happy New Year Joan!
Happy New Year Robin. Never tried HDR before. Thanks it improves the DR of my photos a lot using EM1 mki.
Happy New Year Edward! The HDR function is very useful in tricky lighting situations.
Happy New Year Robin .
Happy New Year to you too!
Happy New Year, looking forward to your videos in 2022.
Happy New Year Brian!
Very interesting, i'm gonna look for similar tips on my fuji 👍
thank you for the tips Robin!
Let's eat some hipster food and overpriced coffee soon.
Definitely
Bonsoir, merci pour tous ces conseils
Happy New Year! Thank you, some great advice and tips there. Always new things to learn. I noticed you were using Capture One, I haven`t used the software, I have DXO Photolab 5 and On1 Photo RAW 2022 and LR6. May be a video comparing different RAW editors to see which one suits Olympus cameras better or what the differences are for processing RAW files from Olympus, just an idea anyway. Thank you again and happy photography for 2022.
Happy New Year Andrea. I don't have any of these software that you have suggested and I do not plan to use them any time soon. I have quickly compared Capture One against Lightroom before, I liked how Capture One handled Olympus files, and the operation (click to click) is much smoother and quicker on the Capture One. Lightroom is too resource hungry and it slows down my PC.
@@robinwong Thank you, yes I have noticed also that Lightroom can be very slow especially when you have lots of images in the library. On1 also needs a powerful computer and doesn`t support older Olympus files very well and doesn`t seem so good on Olympus high resolution RAW files. DXO Photolab has great noise reduction and does extract a lot of detail from Olympus files and works well with high resolution images but again may need a powerful computer to work smoothly. I will have to try Capture One as I have heard it is good. Thank you again.
Additionally, I like to have the histogram turned on. I did some testing with OMLog400 and found banding issues on bright (middle European) faces. That‘s probably caused by only having 8 bit-coded colors. With flat profile this didn’t occur. OMLog400 might still be useful in very high contrast scenes.
Happy new year Robin!
The Olympus HDR function is great for a quick jpeg, but I'm not really a fan of the look of the Olympus tone mapping on the HDR images. I tend to use HDR bracketing (assigned to a custom mode) and then create the HDR image in an imaging editing programme. It's more cumbersome but it means I can choose how the tone mapping looks.
Happy New Year Mehul.
Sure, using bracketing and merge HDR shots in post can be a separate topic altogether.
@@robinwong Happy New Year, Robin! As it's a separate topic, could you make a video on bracketing and merge HDR, please?
Happy New Year Robin! Health and success to you! Please consider making a separate video on the video profiles of Olympus and their post processing - grading. I think many people would find that useful. I know that Olympus offered the profiles for download for post processing. It would be great if you could show your workflow. Thank you.
Thanks for the suggestion. I don't use the LUT from Olympus. I graded the footage myself. Much like simple postprocessing on a photo, correcting white balance, exposure, adding a bit of contrast, etc. Nothing that fun really! I'm also not a film maker. But I will see what I can do
@@robinwong I understand. Just think about it, no pressure. I know everything you touch, you transform into something highly understandable and user friendly. Maybe one day you will touch this topic 😉
@@robinwong Happy New Year Robin! great video as always. Can you tell me what software you were using in this video for post processing? Thank you.
Happy New Year from Sweden Robin. A tip: highlight and shadow control can often be reached by pressing on the +/- compensation button on the four way rear control (“upwards”) directly followed by pressing on the info button. A small icon indicating the highlight/ shadow curve will appear on the screen lower right corner. Depending on your camera, you can then adjust one curve at a time or using front & rear controls. This works on my EPM-1, E-P5, E-M10 II but not my E-M1 or Pen-F.
Happy New Year Stefan. I think what you mentioned is true for PEN cameras. I remember E-M10 has a shortcut button.
Hello Robin, Happy New Year 🎆
I have been meaning to try taking 2 or 3 spot meterings and averaging them but haven't got round to it yet. It's not very easy if you're not good at mental arithmetic! I believe a few cameras can do it automatically but if that's a feature of Olympus cameras I haven't found it yet. Maybe a subject for a future video?
Happy New Year Chris! I don't think such function exists for Olympus, with multiple spot metering points. I myself don't use spot metering at all, and adjust the exposure compensation aggressively to get the exposure that I am happy with
I use the live histogtam and always try to ETTR. Of course you must shoot RAW doing this. That way my shots are a little overexposed when opened, but because they are not clipped, all highlight information can be saved. Shadows this way are rarely noisy. Thanks Robin.
Useful comment. Thank you !
Let´s do this! Great!
Happy New Year from Belgium Robin !! A very great thank for all your advices about Olympus....In the particular case of video, have you some tips about how to develop and grade OM-LOG400, where can we find the LUT to do that ?
Happy New Year Danny. I didn't use LUT and I graded it myself. Simple processing, exposure, white balance and contrast tweaks, much like how I'd post-process my own images.
Thank you Robin! As always, excellent content. I'm more and more interrested in video. What program do you use to edit your videos? Thank you!
happy new year to you from Brazil
Happy New Year Rodney!
Happy New Year!
Happy New Year Mihail!
Hey Robin! Great tips! I actually find shooting OMLOG and FLAT too sharp in video. I actually prefer keeping making a custom profile and using Natural profile with all the settings set to -2. This keeps it almost as flat as the FLAT profile but takes the digital sharpening look out of videos. This isn't seen in photos because RAW doesn't apply that same sharpening but it seems much more magnified in video. Again awesome video! Oh and curious, what capture device do you use to record your camera screen?
I agree. Better to have reduced sharpening. I find the out of camera natural profile pretty good with a nice out of focus highlight roll-off. Better than Panasonic without LUT’s.
That HDR function is really nice for landscapes. I used it a lot with my Em1mk1 out west.
Not sure if I missed this but the high resolution option does in fact give you more dynamic range. Simply because it is stacking 16 images. Someone on DPR forums showed a graph demonstrating that the Em1M3 had greater dynamic range than ten the latests Nikon Z9 does when using the High Rez mode.
Not just HR/HHHR modes but also Live ND mode, all do *increase* DR by 1.5 to 2 stops at all ISOs. Noticeably visible, also measurable and published at photonstophoto.
Even without these additional DR gains, all top M43 cameras already outperform the best FF bodies by about half a stop when shooting equivalent apertures at higher than base ISO settings. Shouldn't be insecure about DR on M43 at all.
That's very interesting for sure. While I do see some improvements in dynamic range when testing the high res shot (tripod mode, with 8 photos displaced half pixel pitch from each other), it is not giving more than half a stop more advantage, though some will argue that half a stop is a lot and can avoid clippings in some situations. To push it further and claim that to surpass Z9... I am not too sure myself.
Simply stacking more images will reduce the the noise (by taking the average of more measurements), but won't directly increase the dynamic range. Because of less noise, you can push to the limit a bit more, but if the information is not there in any of the images, in won't be there in the composite either. The trick of HDR is that the images are taken with different exposures.
@@alparjuttner9095 Is that different shutter speeds?
@@alparjuttner9095 Not really so. Noise goes down due to the square rout laws of physics. Ever time images stacked is re squared noise goes down and dynamic range goes up proportionally.
VERY GOOD!
I don`t know before - using 200 ISO as basic level.
Let me ask: if you use automatic mode (yes I know it is not the "best way" of photography) - does it do the other points of your video integrate automatically?
Welcome back and Happy 2022 !!
Any news on OM Imaging Solutions or whatever they're called? (Stupid name.)
Happy New Year. Nope, no news.
Happy new Year Robin! You look like the Dalai Lama 🤗
Happy New Year to you too. Not sure how Dalai Lama would feel about this.
Perfect timing for me, my "new" EM-1 Mark II arrives tomorrow from the States.
You're going to love it Scott. It is a wonderful performer and produces outstanding images -- and is really well made.
@@gregm6894 Thanks. Can't wait. It's a little bit of an upgrade from my PEN E-PL9. ;)
E-M1 Mark II is still my main workhorse, alongside the E-M1 Mark III and E-M5 Mark III.
Maybe you have already done a video on this. But a video for new people to setup their Olympus cameras to get the best results for photography. Someone was recently saying to set clarity to -2. Not sure if that's ideal.
Ahoj Robin, jaký program bys doporučil pro jednoduché úpravy videa. Nemyslím střih, ale úpravy expozičních parametrů nebo barev. Děkuji. Tvoje videa sleduji a hodně mi to pomáhá poznat se se systémem OM.
Happy New Year Robin. I've also heard that if you shoot with the Hi-Res option that that also releases a certain amount of dynamic range. Are you able to confirm this, and (if true) how many stops? Many thanks, and greetings from the UK.
Happy New Year Huw, yes there is some noticeable improvement in dynamic range when shooting in high res mode, but it is not significant enough for me to mention it in this list.
@@robinwong Thank you sir. I recently posted a video outlining my own concerns with m43rds dynamic range and there were several responses claiming that I was being silly and Hi-Res mode was the answer. Thanks again and stay well and safe.
Hi Res mode adds more dynamic range, and I often use handheld Hi-Res for sunrise and sunset images. It can require more work if there are moving objects in the image, to paint over the motion blur with an extra layer from the non-hi-res (file *.ORI) image. Alternatively, HDR bracketed images at multiple exposure levels, merged together in post-processing, e.g. from Aurora HDR software, can work very well.
Thanks Steve. Despite the popular claim, after extensive tests I have done, I do not see that much improvement in dynamic range when using high res shot to put it into this list.
01:27 Very nice!
Hi Robin, one more tip (actually from one of your old blog entries): Shoot in JPG+RAW mode. Then you have the raw data when you really need it, but save the time of post processing of most of the images, when the out-of-camera JPEG is just right.
I am almost a full time RAW shooter now, unless I know specifically I need to use my photos quickly.
We are photographers and, I think, we love to shoot photos. The difference between RAW and JPEG is unbelievable. Shoot RAW and you will enjoy the best quality possible from your gears. If you want to use JPEG you can use your Phone; results will be very close. But, if you use RAW, and a good (very quickly) process you can discover what your gear can do. Just RAW. JPEG is just right, but not enough.
@@gennarocarrese3377 Come on! "If you want to use JPEG you can use your Phone; results will be very close" - You must be a joking! Or if you are serious, then you probably don't know how to use the capabilities of your camera and your lenses.
RAW processing is of course important tool to utilize the full dynamic range, fine adjust the tonal renditions and the colors. But it also happens, that you have an interesting subject, you manage to find interesting perspective and composition, but also the lighting situation is easy, thus the out-of-camera JPEG is just fine.
@@gennarocarrese3377 One more thing. In the film area, very few people developed their color films themselves. Not even the professionals. In addition, many pros (e.g. wildlife photographers) used slides, in that case post processing was basically impossible. Thus - using digital-word terms - almost everybody was "shooting JPEG". And many of them was quite successful in doing that.
@@alparjuttner9095 Ok. If you are satisfied of your JPEG everythings is fine. Just for me it's not enough.
Happy New Year Robin. Still wondering with my EM1 markiii. How the shadow/highlight warning goes in it🤔🤔
Happy New Year Erkki. Exactly the same way as I have described.
Best tip for any OM owner. Subscribe to this channel.
Is that capture one Robin is editing in?
I usually shoot in RAW which really helps as my Olympus em10 does not have the same DR as my Nikon d750.
I haven't read through all the comments, so I don't know if anyone else mentioned this. Keep in mind that JPEG is an 8 bit file whereas when you shoot in RAW you get the full bit depth capability of your camera, often 12 or 14, and that's a BIG difference.
Yeah, I have a question. When OMD is going to release a new sensor with bigger dynamic range and resolution? 🙂
Are there any other E-PL8 users out there? The E-PL8 actually has Highlight/Shadow control, though it's not in the Super Control Panel. To access it, press the up arrow for Exposure, then Info. A Highlight-Shadow control appears that you can adjust using the up and down arrow buttons and Info. This might be true for older cameras too; I'm not sure.
For PEN cameras, the operation is different because only single command dial is available. More steps to get there.
Hi, what is the post-processing software you use in the video?
Interesting that you are finally using Capture One, Robin. Olympus's included RAW converter I found far too slow and awkward. C1 is brilliant. Also who is your hand-strap made by? I got a cheap Chinese one on eBay, which is good, but not that robust.
I've been using Capture One for at least 6 years.
@@robinwong Oh dear. Tom puts his foot in it, again! LOL
Dear Robin, what about recomended software for RAW-files working? Which one do you use?
Hi Robin!! there are a couple of tricks you forgot to mention. I know that they are not present in all Olympus cameras, but they are so important that I think they must be shared.
1.- HRShot increases dynamic range
2.- LiveND shot dramatically increases dynamic range from ND8 onwards. Then higher the ND the higher the DR increase. (EM1.3 and EM1x only)
If you make some tests you will get shocked. In my case, as a landscape photographer, I use LiveND for the 90% of my shots, even if I don't need filter. I use it only to take advantage of the huge improve of quality that I get in the RAW file.
Is ISO 200 the base for the OM-1 as well?
When u shoot HDR mode with olympus cameras, does it come out a Raw file or JPEG?
I think it would be good if in-camera HDR was configurable, both the number of shots and stop range. It seems even the E-M1 doesn't have this.
Hey Chris, for experienced users they's prefer to shoot RAW and use bracketing (which is highlight configurable) and do the HDR merging in post. Olympus provided a quick shortcut, which I believe is sufficient for 90% of HDR shooting scenarios. Of course, we all want more control.
😊👍