Interesting, except the "dorrected" piece had 2 huge missed spots (upper left over pink/white. Even so, the original missed spot would still be visible as the resin would still leave a valley as it ran over edge as there was no "edge" to hold top resin. It always amazing, though, pouring a top coad can restore shine after sanding.
I'm new at Epoxy, and I'm making dominoes for each family we visit for the holidays, OMG, I just cleaned up such a MESS! And I demolded my mother in law's domino box, and it's got divots in areas where the resin didn't take in the mold... corners were left with pockets of air. I'm up to my ears in resin, glitter, and pigments all over my kitchen!! I tried to dome a box lid, walked away, and came back to the lid sitting in a big sticky puddle all over the heating mat. I didn't know I needed a respirator until after about a week into these projects. I'm not sure how to fill these divots in the corners of the boxes, little empty spaces on nearly every corner! I used Let's Resin molds and JDiction resin in hopes of avoiding some of the troubleshooting problems in TH-cam tutorials. Ya'll make it look so EASY that I figured I could manage just a few holiday gifts... 🤯 I'm overwhelmed!!!
I love that you are making gifts that your family can enjoy for years to come! Resin can be very tricky in molds as you’ve pointed out. Unfortunately you can’t fix the corners etc you would have to make new ones and try to ensure all air bubbles are out… it is tricky and takes a lot of patience and time. Good luck and happy holidays!
hi lolli if my words help i am happy good art is hard to achieve and knowladge is always good , I like to be perfect in all i do but using hobby stores and art shops is expensive they sell good products but they source them from manufaturers that we can access as well hence i go direct to them and save moneyi can double my volume this way then its up to the individual to test and trial spec sheets and comunication with the manufactures will produce results. good to see your videos make more but try to find the non smelly products they dont stink the house out , i dont know how to communicate other than comments as i would forward you some contacts and products as i say i live in England but have used a Irish company in past.
Hi there! I used Liquitex pink, Golden Carbon Black (both acrylic paints), and then mixed my own gold which was a combination of Golden gold and pebeo gold acrylics); and a white Sheleeartstyle cell activator… if memory serves me correctly - it was done a couple of years ago ☺️
Hi i m currently working on a project and i got so many bubbles I have dry sand it with 120 grit Bt i m little worried as a saw everyone using waterproof grit paper i came across your video and hoping that you can help me with sanding technique what to do after sanding it with 120grit paper ?
Thanks for watching. Once you’ve sanded it down, making sure it’s smooth and all your bubbles are gone, you need to clean it off - you can use a damp paper towel, soft paintbrush, and/or compressed air. If you use the damp paper towel beside it’s completely dried before re-resining. Also, using a little alcohol can help with any oils before you re-resin. Hope this helps :-)
The best way to prepare already resined piece for revarnish IMO is this: 1. Sand your tile 2. Wash it with soap and water thoroughly 3. Dry it with a new paper coffe filter (never use paper towels for this purpose as they leave fibers on the surface); let the piece dry completely. Dont touch the surfsce with the naked fingers, they will leave oily residue and resin will not adhere to these spots 4. Retape the back 5. Clean the surface again with alcohol or acetone (gloves and masks/resoirators are required), let it dry (aceton/isopropil alcohol dry very fast 6. Level and revarnish your piece, kill the bubbles, all that usual stuff 7. Make sure room temperature where your piece is located = around 75F 7. Cover it right away until its cured Good luck
Hi, new resin person here- I have created a ledge area on my resin- the cover touched it. I’ve sand about half of it down and the rest of the painting- if I pour again can I pour a little heavier where I made this mistake? Help please Susan
Hi Susan! Most resin is self-leveling so in a situation like that, you need to sand the entire painting down so it’s level and then clean it off very well and re pour your resin. Another option would be to make a “frame” around the painting with good tape and then pour resin in to it, all over - but I’ve never had consistent luck with this - sanding it down and redoing it is easier for me me. Hope this helps. Good luck
I sanded and still see air bubbles. I am worried if I sand too much I will mess up the canvas. What do you suggest? The air bubbles are not above the surface they are below.
Did you already repour and can see the air bubble? Either way you will have to keep sanding until you sand the air bubble away, then clean it off really well and then repour your resin. I know it’s a pain - but worth it once it’s done
Hi Lisa Sorry for the delay in response. Unfortunately the only way to fix it would be to sand it and repour. Make sure it’s on a level surface and then the resin should fill in the low area (most brands are self-leveling)
Hi Miranda! Thanks for watching. I apologize for not showing that. All I did was put some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and wiped it before I applied the resin. I showed this process in a previous video about how to resin coasters. If you’re interested I watching, here’s the link: th-cam.com/video/s78mrlhTy8I/w-d-xo.html
@@artbylolli6588 Oh, that's ok. I had a piece that I had to fix, but I wiped it really well a few times with water and paper towel and let it dry. I re-applied the resin and it worked and it covered that spot that was rather big. Thank you for taking the time to show us all your knowledge and projects.
It is time consuming and can get expensive. I find it really helps to stir slowly, and then I use a torch to pop bubbles about 15-20 mins after I’ve poured. Another thing that helps is to prime your panel before painting and resining :-)
This might be ok on these tiny pours but fixing bubbles on a large project such as a live edge slab table or a River table or something along those lines, doing this method of pouring the piece entirely over again takes away a ton of time and profit, so this method while done on tiny projects, not ideal for large projects
this is showing people how to do it wrong, you use wet sand paper, start at 400 and go up to 3,000, that gets rid of the grit, which means it needs sanded more. and you NEED the respirator to sand, the sanded particles in the air are worse than resin on your lungs. Do some research before you do another video, for God's sake I have only been doing this a year and I know about 6000 times more than this.
Thank you. Im a first time resin user.
You’re welcome! Hope this was helpful to you. Thank you for watching.
Thank you for making this video and showing us how to fix.❤❤❤😊
You are so welcome!
Thank you for this video. I am currently experiencing resin challenges myself. Your tips come at a great time for me. It works.😊yea🎉
Thank you for sharing your experience! Glad it helped you. :-)
dont for get the moisture the canned air bllew onto it. great video help thank you
Thank you! Great reminder!
Your video is awesome. It is precise and well done. Your information also helped me solve my problem. Thank you.
Thanks so much for watching. I’m glad it helped you :-)
Just the video I needed to see. Thank you!
Thanks so much for watching! I’m glad it helped you.
Interesting, except the "dorrected" piece had 2 huge missed spots (upper left over pink/white. Even so, the original missed spot would still be visible as the resin would still leave a valley as it ran over edge as there was no "edge" to hold top resin. It always amazing, though, pouring a top coad can restore shine after sanding.
Although I am enjoying this video, you voice was not always clear but I was able to follow along.
Thank you for the feedback 😊
Thank you for this video
It's really helpful
Thanks for watching :-)
Thanks! It was really helpful
Thank you for watching :-)
Thank you for the tips
You’re welcome ☺️
I'm new at Epoxy, and I'm making dominoes for each family we visit for the holidays, OMG, I just cleaned up such a MESS! And I demolded my mother in law's domino box, and it's got divots in areas where the resin didn't take in the mold... corners were left with pockets of air. I'm up to my ears in resin, glitter, and pigments all over my kitchen!! I tried to dome a box lid, walked away, and came back to the lid sitting in a big sticky puddle all over the heating mat. I didn't know I needed a respirator until after about a week into these projects. I'm not sure how to fill these divots in the corners of the boxes, little empty spaces on nearly every corner! I used Let's Resin molds and JDiction resin in hopes of avoiding some of the troubleshooting problems in TH-cam tutorials. Ya'll make it look so EASY that I figured I could manage just a few holiday gifts... 🤯 I'm overwhelmed!!!
I love that you are making gifts that your family can enjoy for years to come! Resin can be very tricky in molds as you’ve pointed out. Unfortunately you can’t fix the corners etc you would have to make new ones and try to ensure all air bubbles are out… it is tricky and takes a lot of patience and time. Good luck and happy holidays!
That was brilliant and helpful! Thank you!
Thank you for watching and I’m glad it was helpful.
hi lolli if my words help i am happy good art is hard to achieve and knowladge is always good , I like to be perfect in all i do but using hobby stores and art shops is expensive they sell good products but they source them from manufaturers that we can access as well hence i go direct to them and save moneyi can double my volume this way then its up to the individual to test and trial spec sheets and comunication with the manufactures will produce results. good to see your videos make more but try to find the non smelly products they dont stink the house out , i dont know how to communicate other than comments as i would forward you some contacts and products as i say i live in England but have used a Irish company in past.
Thanks for this much needed
I’m so glad it helped you :-)
What colours where u using in this one!? Mica, acryls or other?
Hi there! I used Liquitex pink, Golden Carbon Black (both acrylic paints), and then mixed my own gold which was a combination of Golden gold and pebeo gold acrylics); and a white Sheleeartstyle cell activator… if memory serves me correctly - it was done a couple of years ago ☺️
I would use the respirator while sanding also. That dust is not good to inhale! Also is it better to use a higher grit with the sand paper?
Yes the dust is not good to inhale as well. I find a finer sand paper to be more effective to touch up bubbles or hairs or dust.
Hi i m currently working on a project and i got so many bubbles
I have dry sand it with 120 grit
Bt i m little worried as a saw everyone using waterproof grit paper i came across your video and hoping that you can help me with sanding technique what to do after sanding it with 120grit paper ?
Thanks for watching. Once you’ve sanded it down, making sure it’s smooth and all your bubbles are gone, you need to clean it off - you can use a damp paper towel, soft paintbrush, and/or compressed air. If you use the damp paper towel beside it’s completely dried before re-resining. Also, using a little alcohol can help with any oils before you re-resin. Hope this helps :-)
Can you use tape to remove the dust and grit?
You could do that but if it’s a large piece it may become tedious. Tape is usually only used for the last bits of dust/grit.
The best way to prepare already resined piece for revarnish IMO is this:
1. Sand your tile
2. Wash it with soap and water thoroughly
3. Dry it with a new paper coffe filter (never use paper towels for this purpose as they leave fibers on the surface); let the piece dry completely. Dont touch the surfsce with the naked fingers, they will leave oily residue and resin will not adhere to these spots
4. Retape the back
5. Clean the surface again with alcohol or acetone (gloves and masks/resoirators are required), let it dry (aceton/isopropil alcohol dry very fast
6. Level and revarnish your piece, kill the bubbles, all that usual stuff
7. Make sure room temperature where your piece is located = around 75F
7. Cover it right away until its cured
Good luck
Thank you for your feedback and for watching
Does this work with wood as well ?
Yes it should work on any substrate
Hi, new resin person here- I have created a ledge area on my resin- the cover touched it. I’ve sand about half of it down and the rest of the painting- if I pour again can I pour a little heavier where I made this mistake? Help please Susan
Hi Susan! Most resin is self-leveling so in a situation like that, you need to sand the entire painting down so it’s level and then clean it off very well and re pour your resin. Another option would be to make a “frame” around the painting with good tape and then pour resin in to it, all over - but I’ve never had consistent luck with this - sanding it down and redoing it is easier for me me. Hope this helps. Good luck
@@artbylolli6588 thank you for your help. Also, I have Kiltz primer - it does not say drys transparent- if I mix with it will it work.
You do not need to sand it at all..... A new resin coat will fill any holes or blemishes... Without sanding.... I've done it many times
what about the bubbles?
@@serenitydominique3982 I use a Dremel to bring out the bubbles and any other imperfections. Then recoat. No need to sand.
@@erikkruis what is a Dremel?
I have resin pits… and I don’t want to sand, do I just pour a new resin coat?
@@erikkruisI messed up a piece by trying to sand down bubbles 😭
I sanded and still see air bubbles. I am worried if I sand too much I will mess up the canvas. What do you suggest? The air bubbles are not above the surface they are below.
Did you already repour and can see the air bubble? Either way you will have to keep sanding until you sand the air bubble away, then clean it off really well and then repour your resin. I know it’s a pain - but worth it once it’s done
Is there a way to fix a painting with one low spot out redoing the entire painting?
Hi Lisa
Sorry for the delay in response. Unfortunately the only way to fix it would be to sand it and repour. Make sure it’s on a level surface and then the resin should fill in the low area (most brands are self-leveling)
Well it will works with a coaster... How about fixing a picture?
The process for fixing a picture would be exactly the same :-) Sand it, clean it off, and re-resin. Thanks for watching 🙏😊
@@artbylolli6588 wow,got to try)) thank you
@@livingsteel6272 You’re welcome. Good luck! 😊
So basically there’s no short cut lol! You have to do it all over
Lol unfortunately not. :-)
You mentioned alcohol but I didn't see you apply it.
Hi Miranda! Thanks for watching. I apologize for not showing that. All I did was put some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and wiped it before I applied the resin. I showed this process in a previous video about how to resin coasters. If you’re interested I watching, here’s the link:
th-cam.com/video/s78mrlhTy8I/w-d-xo.html
@@artbylolli6588 Oh, that's ok. I had a piece that I had to fix, but I wiped it really well a few times with water and paper towel and let it dry. I re-applied the resin and it worked and it covered that spot that was rather big. Thank you for taking the time to show us all your knowledge and projects.
@@mirandarebornbabymaker212 so glad it worked well for you. 😄
Yes she applied the rubbing alcohol with a paper towel at 5:24
When I saw this piece I thought it was around 5ft by 5 ft.... Then I saw the real size of it 🤣😂 and so small...
🤣🤣 I know photos can be so deceiving until you see the item with a frame of reference.
This one was just a 4x4 (inch) tile 😊
@@artbylolli6588 I would never imagine it was that small... Especially because it has really nice details in the epoxy.
@@chrisc.c52 thanks 😊
The thing is we have no control when bubbles come up after we are done and this is time consuming.
It is time consuming and can get expensive. I find it really helps to stir slowly, and then I use a torch to pop bubbles about 15-20 mins after I’ve poured. Another thing that helps is to prime your panel before painting and resining :-)
Did you mean for people to be in that artwork? I see a man and lady from early 20th Century attire. Am I imagining it?
I love hearing what different people see in my abstract work :-) I don’t see the people :-)
This might be ok on these tiny pours but fixing bubbles on a large project such as a live edge slab table or a River table or something along those lines, doing this method of pouring the piece entirely over again takes away a ton of time and profit, so this method while done on tiny projects, not ideal for large projects
how do you fix resin imperfections on a large pour?
this is showing people how to do it wrong, you use wet sand paper, start at 400 and go up to 3,000, that gets rid of the grit, which means it needs sanded more. and you NEED the respirator to sand, the sanded particles in the air are worse than resin on your lungs. Do some research before you do another video, for God's sake I have only been doing this a year and I know about 6000 times more than this.