I've watched quite a few resin videos on how to prevent or get rid of those pesky micro and larger air bubbles and I have to say your video so far is one of the best. Very clear, concise and informative....thank you so very much for helping us newbies 🥰❤
That was such a concise but comprehensive video! No need to try to fast forward to certain bits, it was all straight to the point and relative 😊 Plus, I've been using resin for ages and never heard of the ultrasonic method. I will definitely look into that since I actually only ever mix small amounts. Thanks!
I can't afford to really get a vacuum or pressure pot so I extremely appreciate all the other options of minimizing bubbles in resin you give. The information given is so straightforward and I do also appreciate making timestamps for us to go back to or skip to ♥️
Your video is a project saver! I kept getting tiny bubbles that set like foam in my pours. I've been experimenting with different things to get rid of them. Your rubbing alcohol spray suggestion did it! THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH
Thank you for this informative video! I was wondering if an ultrasonic cleaner would work and you've provided a very clear explanation to all these methods!
This was a lifesaver! We were at our wits end having tried pretty much all of the recommended common tips out there but your video was the only one that suggested the ultrasonic cleaner. Thank you so much for a clear, straightforward video with the super helpful summary in the description!
These tips are fantastic thank you! For the first time I’ve got bubbles in my set resin and I’ve got to sand it all down a d re coat so seeing the flower dipping tip is particularly helpful to me
I am not game to try it yet but I do have some pictures I may try to wrap around a pen. Your video was clear and concise. Thank you. Have a lovely day.
Thank you so much for all the info! I will be rewatching this before every pour until it's muscle memory 😁 can't wait to check out more of your vids! Have a wonderful day 🥰
New to epoxy resin do a lot of woodworking hoping to introduce resin into projects have tried small test projects but have had trouble with air bubbles hope this video will help very informative thank you have subscribed
i forget who it was that i just watched do everything he could to remove bubbles using vibration, but he was an old-timer with vast experience and skillz. he knew vibration was a silly, useless trick, but he did it to show just how pointless it was. he convinced me!
When we poured clear coat for table tops, we used alcohol. Put in a spray bottle and spray a fine mist over the top. Bubbles come popping to the surface. Dont over spray it tho.
I’ve seen some people recommend the coffee cup warmers to warm your resin prior to using it. They say it removes bubbles very well. Have you ever used one? Would it be a better alternative to the water bath since there would be no possibility of accidentally getting water in the resin. Take care and stay safe!
I haven't used one, but I think it'd take a bit longer to warm it since the heat is only coming from the bottom. It could definitely work if you have smallish bottles of resin though :) I've also seen people say they place it near a heater as another alternative. If you're worried about water I'd suggest using a tallish container for it, that way the bottle can't tip over when it's getting low so there's no risk of getting water in your resin. You can mark how high to pour the water after the first time so that you know it won't go too close to the cap. Another alternative is some people place the bottles in ziplock bags before putting them in water. It all just comes down to preference in the end and what works best for your setup :)
@@Jetblastjoe same I wish I had found this video first! I've also used a heat gun for too long and had the same effect 😅🤦🏻♀️ I'm also just coming to the understanding I'll prob have to sand and reseal some pieces but that's okay I still love resin art!
I usually just warm the whole bottle and pour what I need, but I also keep the bulk of my resin separate. Usually it's the hardener that's more prone to yellowing and important to keep at a stable temp so I havent had it cause any issues
Thank you for your valuable info. We are making viscous dispersions of nano silica in solvents. But we are facing heavy air bubbles which do not go away. Please suggest a suitable technique to overcome the same
Some constructive criticism. Please either increase the voice volume in editing or put a mic nearer to yourself. It is hard to hear without raising the volume compared to other videos.
I haven't but from what I can see it's just a solvent (naphtha). It's basically the same as if you added isopropyl alcohol or acetone directly into your resin, which yes would thin it out and let bubbles release easier, but also prevents it from curing properly and makes it rubbery. Better off just using a slow cure resin so that you know it's properly cured and safe to handle
Do you or have you used the pressure pot and if so can you do a tutorial on where to get one, what to look for when purchasing one, and the best way and safest way you have found in using one...please and thank you 😊
I don't have a pressure pot unfortunately because I don't have anywhere that I feel safe leaving it. If I was going to get one I'd personally go for a slightly higher quality one (not the cheap harbour freight ones)
Thank you, for scale modelling purposes I am going to deal only with low amounts of resin at a time, I did not want to invest €130 in the vacuum chamber + pump set. A typical ultrasonic cleaner should be enough as I see :) Can I also use same method for casting silicone?
I haven't tried with silicone, I suspect it might be a bit thick but it could be worth experimenting with! Otherwise a good way to do silicone without a vacuum pump is to buy a slow setting one and then place it in the fridge for part of the cure time (best to keep it in a box to contain any fumes). It slows the cure down so the bubbles can rise out before it sets :)
I am curious as I am using Mica powders with resin and it can be quite difficult to spot bubbles as initially you cant see them. Would it be best to put mica powders at the base of the molds first then mix it once the resin is in the mold. Or pre mix it? As I recently used a cap/lid mold for my dice set and all the top faces are filled with bubbles. I found this video very helpful I just wanted to try and figure out where I am going wrong it was only my first time doing it but I want to see what I can improve.
For dice you generally need to use one of the methods that actually remove the bubbles (vacuum, ultrasonic, pressure pot). They're enclosed so the tiny bubbles rise to the top when they're curing otherwise and get stuck (even without the mica, it just makes it harder to see what's going on). Dice are definitely one of the harder things to get bubble free
Hello anyone reading this question. In regards to the ultrasonic cleaner to remove bubbles, wondering if you can put your resin filled mold directly into the ultrasonic cleaner. I ask as I purchased an ultrasonic cleaner recently and although the cleaner did remove all of the bubbles (very impressive), it was already in the curing / setting stage and was not real easy to pour on my tumbler. Will have to reduce the time for future reference. Although I plan on using resin to also fill molds. I'd like to remove all bubbles for the molds due to how deep the molds can be and that will make it harder to remove the bubbles, Figured if I could remove the bubbles directly in the mold in the ultrasonic cleaner. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
I'm in NZ so only have experience with local brands, in general though just look for one with a longer curing time (2-3 days, or even longer for very deep pours)
For a pressure pot you should pour the resin into the mould and then place the mould into the pot until it's cured. The pot should mostly hold its pressure so you wont need to keep the compressor going or anything :)
@@LamellaCreations What if mould it too big to fit inside the pressure pot? Can you just put the resin to make the bubbles small and then take it out and pour it on the mould to cure? If you can then how long should the resin be left inside.
@@knight3131 Unfortunately not, the resin needs to be under pressure while it cures because otherwise the bubbles just expand again. If it doesn't fit then you'll need to use other methods to control the bubbles, a vacuum chamber might work for your use because that actually removes the bubbles :)
Had the sound all the way and I couldn't hear what you were saying. I am really interested in your video because my works suffer from the bubbles. P.S. I just watched another video just before I clicked on yours and the sound was fine. Thank You, I hope you will make a new video on this subject.
This is a very informative video! Can I ask, I’m getting bubbles in my cast pieces (small earring elements) which appear on the good side (the side that’s face down in the mould). They tend to be around the edges or in corners. How can I avoid this?
If they're there when you're pouring the resin in you can coax them out with a toothpick or similar (just be careful not to scratch the mould). If they only appear after a while that can be from a very low quality mould and the bubbles are leeching out from the silicone. Not much you can do about the second one but use different moulds
Would it be worthwhile to try the alcohol spray trick? Actually, what I did was take a silicone baby food spoon, dip it in a container with alcohol, shake off the extra alcohol back into the cup, and then dip the very lightly coated spoon onto the top bubbles in the mold, including corners. It pops the bubbles, but also using the spoon helps you direct the alcohol a little bit better to the bubbles you really want to pop.
It's isopropyl alcohol put into a spray bottle (bought separately) . Mine is a sushi spray bottle from Daiso but anything that can mist finely will work. The higher the percentage of alcohol the better too
I have art resin and there’s millions of bubbles even after using a lighter. I now have a blow torch and am wondering if I can put the resin in an aluminum can before torching? Thanks :)
Artresin is a coating resin so it's best to torch after you've poured it over the artwork (as lighters/torches only work on surface bubbles). If you're wanting to use it as a casting resin you would need to use a pressure pot as it's an extremely thick resin, although warming it beforehand would help a small amount too
It depends where you live as to what will be available :) In general if you look for a slower setting one it's often also thinner, or you can check the technical data sheet (TDS) of a resin you're interested in to find the viscosity
It's isopropyl alcohol that I just poured into a spray bottle that I got from a dollar store. It's also called rubbing alcohol some places (though I think some rubbing alcohols are ethanol instead- unsure whether ethanol based ones also work)
Hi, it depends on what sort of resin you're using and how big the thing is that you're making. UV resin in particular is very brittle and likely to break, but epoxy can also become brittle if something goes wrong with the curing process (e.g. if you pour past the maximum depth for your resin and it overheats).
So, what do you do when the resin already has bubbles in it before you even pour it? Just, hanging out in the resin bottle. Haven't mixed it with anything. It already has *tons* of microbubbles even after letting it sit in hot water. I've tried so many resin types and brands - they all *start* with bubbles already in them.
Hi, my wife is getting in to resin art and using the heating method after mixing her resin set almost immediately, how can she avoid this in the future?
Hiya, yeah you have to be careful not to overheat it if it's a fast setting resin. I'd try heating it a little less hot (and only heating the resin, not the hardener). Another thing that can affect it is the amount being mixed and the shape of the container, because overheating can happen even without warming it before. Mixing smaller amounts will make it less likely to overheat, and using a wider container to mix in so that there's more surface area for heat to dissipate :)
Can be several causes: -Very low quality silicone moulds can create bubbles after pouring on the surface of the moulds -Putting porous things like paper, wood etc. that release bubbles into the resin -If there are large oddly shaped bubbles the resin likely got too hot and boiled
Bonjour Lamella Créations, je me permets de vous écrire afin de vous poser une question concernant la création d’un moulage. Pourriez-vous me dire lorsque je chauffe ma résine sur un réchauffe tasse afin de retirer les bulles de la résine, s’il faut attendre que la résine refroidisse ensuite avant de la verser dans un moule en silicone ? Dans l’attente de votre réponse je vous remercie beaucoup et vous souhaite une agréable journée. Cordialement.
@@LamellaCreations Hello Lamella Creations, I thank you for answering me, it's very nice of you. Indeed, your advice will be very precious to me, among other things to avoid the formation of bubbles in my resin, because I have never worked with resin before. I will certainly have several other questions to ask you if you allow me? One of them would be; Could you tell me at what temperature I can heat my resin before pouring it in the silicone mold I made? My second question is; Can I use a syringe to introduce the resin into my silicone mold without the risk of infiltrating air into my mold? If you are interested, let me give you some details about the work I am doing. I modeled in 3D a miniature car at 1/64 scale and I made it printed in 3D, but to be able to realize the transparent windshield I cannot count on the technology of the 3D printing because this last one is not still able to realize totally transparent parts at best it is able to realize translucent parts, but that is not appropriate to realize windows. My alternative is to model the windshield in 3D then to print it in 3D and to use this windshield as a print to be able to realize a silicone mold in which I would pour then transparent and liquid resin. I thank you again for answering me and I wish you a nice day. Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
@@davidboudier6982 I'm not sure of an exact temperature as I usually just feel it with my hand until it seems right. I aim to use water that is warm, but not uncomfortably hot. I also only warm the resin, not the hardener, and definitely not after it's been mixed. It will also depend on the cure time of your resin, as ones meant for shallow pours may not be able to be heated without causing problems. I tried using a syringe recently and found it made a lot of bubbles, I know other people use them though so it might be a matter of quality and having a large enough one
I've watched quite a few resin videos on how to prevent or get rid of those pesky micro and larger air bubbles and I have to say your video so far is one of the best. Very clear, concise and informative....thank you so very much for helping us newbies 🥰❤
Thanks :)
That was such a concise but comprehensive video! No need to try to fast forward to certain bits, it was all straight to the point and relative 😊
Plus, I've been using resin for ages and never heard of the ultrasonic method. I will definitely look into that since I actually only ever mix small amounts.
Thanks!
I can't afford to really get a vacuum or pressure pot so I extremely appreciate all the other options of minimizing bubbles in resin you give. The information given is so straightforward and I do also appreciate making timestamps for us to go back to or skip to ♥️
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful :)
Definitely the most thorough & digestible video I've found so far. Thank you!
I agree
Me too
Your video is a project saver! I kept getting tiny bubbles that set like foam in my pours. I've been experimenting with different things to get rid of them. Your rubbing alcohol spray suggestion did it! THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH
Thank you for this informative video! I was wondering if an ultrasonic cleaner would work and you've provided a very clear explanation to all these methods!
This was a lifesaver! We were at our wits end having tried pretty much all of the recommended common tips out there but your video was the only one that suggested the ultrasonic cleaner. Thank you so much for a clear, straightforward video with the super helpful summary in the description!
Very comprehensive. Well done!
These tips are fantastic thank you! For the first time I’ve got bubbles in my set resin and I’ve got to sand it all down a d re coat so seeing the flower dipping tip is particularly helpful to me
I just did my first pour, glad I found this because its completely full of bubbles! Live and learn I guess, thank you for the tips!
Excellent video! Lamella, you explained everything so well and on point!
Why doesn't this have 100k views!!!??? Excellent video. Thank you
I am not game to try it yet but I do have some pictures I may try to wrap around a pen. Your video was clear and concise. Thank you. Have a lovely day.
One of the best videos on resin. Thanks for all the tips
Thank you su much for these tips! I've been having a hard time with the bubbles and this is a lifesaver!
Thank you for these tips! I want to start to work with resin in the summer so these videos are a great help!
Awesome tips, Lamella! I happened to have an ultrasonic cleaner laying around and it worked very well. Thanks for sharing! :)
Im a new beginner and I found your videos to be helpful when I’m in crisis 😂 thank you!
Thank you for helping us newbies I’m so glad that I found you just bye scrolling for the last month lol…
thank you for this great video on exactly what to do with resin. it makes my life so much easier
very helpful love the different ways of getting bubbles out well done
Great video. To the point, great tips and easy to understand. Thanks 😅
Thank you so much for all the info! I will be rewatching this before every pour until it's muscle memory 😁 can't wait to check out more of your vids! Have a wonderful day 🥰
This was the best info I’ve found so far!!
A concise no waffle video unlike many that talk a lot but say little.
New to epoxy resin do a lot of woodworking hoping to introduce resin into projects have tried small test projects but have had trouble with air bubbles hope this video will help very informative thank you have subscribed
Great no-nonsense content!
This was a very informative video with lots of tips and tricks. Just wish you went into more detail on how to use the pressure cooker with resin :)
Thanks for all the advice, very informative and useful 😊👍🏻
i forget who it was that i just watched do everything he could to remove bubbles using vibration, but he was an old-timer with vast experience and skillz. he knew vibration was a silly, useless trick, but he did it to show just how pointless it was. he convinced me!
Yeah I tried vaguely but it didn't seem to help. Some people say it does but other methods are probably better
Robert Tolone did a video on vibration a few weeks ago
th-cam.com/video/aLpDkHt1gY8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much! Yours is the best, and to the point video out there!
I use epoxy resin to encase electronics and I made a little vacuum chamber out of a glass jar works great for getting out bubbles
Great information. Thank you for a great video. Thank you.
Super duper helpful! Thank you!!
Fantastic information, thank you!
Thanks so much for all your helpful tips!
Hey thank you very much. Very informative! Keep up the great work!
When we poured clear coat for table tops, we used alcohol. Put in a spray bottle and spray a fine mist over the top. Bubbles come popping to the surface. Dont over spray it tho.
Denatured alcohol?
@@chrisfarnum3308no, isopropyl. Avoid the temptation to over spray, it could puddle
Thanks for the tips.
So helpful. Thank you! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge so much!
Amazing tips!! Thank you so much!! 💓
Great video!
Holy wow! its the CO2 that pops the bubbles! you have blown my mind.
Static mixing nozzle from a 2 part caulking gun can also reduce bubbles by purging all the aor out through the mix nozzle.
wow. This was extremely helpful .Thanks!
This was very informative!! Thank you!
Wonderful video. Almost scientific. I wonder what will happen with the in the pressure pot squeezed bubbles in the long term.
Thanks. Very helpful
Thank you it was very helpful.
Thank you for sharing.
Very useful 👍
I’ve seen some people recommend the coffee cup warmers to warm your resin prior to using it. They say it removes bubbles very well. Have you ever used one? Would it be a better alternative to the water bath since there would be no possibility of accidentally getting water in the resin.
Take care and stay safe!
I haven't used one, but I think it'd take a bit longer to warm it since the heat is only coming from the bottom. It could definitely work if you have smallish bottles of resin though :) I've also seen people say they place it near a heater as another alternative.
If you're worried about water I'd suggest using a tallish container for it, that way the bottle can't tip over when it's getting low so there's no risk of getting water in your resin. You can mark how high to pour the water after the first time so that you know it won't go too close to the cap. Another alternative is some people place the bottles in ziplock bags before putting them in water. It all just comes down to preference in the end and what works best for your setup :)
I attempted to use a wax warmer once. It resulted in the bottom of the resin setting up while the top was still liquid.
@@Jetblastjoe same I wish I had found this video first! I've also used a heat gun for too long and had the same effect 😅🤦🏻♀️ I'm also just coming to the understanding I'll prob have to sand and reseal some pieces but that's okay I still love resin art!
Thanks a lot for the insightful video. Just want to know can I use a spoon to do the stirring instead of the popsicle?
I got additional knowledge, thanks 👍
So can you only warm up the resin you intend to use, (to make thinner) or can you warm whole bottle then take out what you need?
I usually just warm the whole bottle and pour what I need, but I also keep the bulk of my resin separate. Usually it's the hardener that's more prone to yellowing and important to keep at a stable temp so I havent had it cause any issues
You have to be careful with warming resin before working with it. It can easily cause flash cure.
Not ir you warm before you mix in the hardener
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us Full view/like
good job thank you for the content.
Thank you for your valuable info.
We are making viscous dispersions of nano silica in solvents.
But we are facing heavy air bubbles which do not go away.
Please suggest a suitable technique to overcome the same
Thank you ❤😊
thank you for the tips. it helped a lot :D xoxo
Amazing! Thank You 🙏🏽
Good tips. But can i use these tips when the resin is mixed with the hardener or it has to be the resin only?
Thank you!!
excellent
Good job
Thank you.
Teşekkürler.
Thank you so much!!!
Some constructive criticism. Please either increase the voice volume in editing or put a mic nearer to yourself. It is hard to hear without raising the volume compared to other videos.
Have you tried Solarez Air Release? It's an additive for Resin that removes bubbles
I haven't but from what I can see it's just a solvent (naphtha). It's basically the same as if you added isopropyl alcohol or acetone directly into your resin, which yes would thin it out and let bubbles release easier, but also prevents it from curing properly and makes it rubbery. Better off just using a slow cure resin so that you know it's properly cured and safe to handle
Do you or have you used the pressure pot and if so can you do a tutorial on where to get one, what to look for when purchasing one, and the best way and safest way you have found in using one...please and thank you 😊
I don't have a pressure pot unfortunately because I don't have anywhere that I feel safe leaving it. If I was going to get one I'd personally go for a slightly higher quality one (not the cheap harbour freight ones)
@@LamellaCreations thank you 😊
So nice
Thank you, for scale modelling purposes I am going to deal only with low amounts of resin at a time, I did not want to invest €130 in the vacuum chamber + pump set. A typical ultrasonic cleaner should be enough as I see :) Can I also use same method for casting silicone?
I haven't tried with silicone, I suspect it might be a bit thick but it could be worth experimenting with! Otherwise a good way to do silicone without a vacuum pump is to buy a slow setting one and then place it in the fridge for part of the cure time (best to keep it in a box to contain any fumes). It slows the cure down so the bubbles can rise out before it sets :)
I am curious as I am using Mica powders with resin and it can be quite difficult to spot bubbles as initially you cant see them. Would it be best to put mica powders at the base of the molds first then mix it once the resin is in the mold. Or pre mix it? As I recently used a cap/lid mold for my dice set and all the top faces are filled with bubbles. I found this video very helpful I just wanted to try and figure out where I am going wrong it was only my first time doing it but I want to see what I can improve.
For dice you generally need to use one of the methods that actually remove the bubbles (vacuum, ultrasonic, pressure pot). They're enclosed so the tiny bubbles rise to the top when they're curing otherwise and get stuck (even without the mica, it just makes it harder to see what's going on). Dice are definitely one of the harder things to get bubble free
Very nice somach
Big like!👍👍👍👍👍✅💪Felicitări! Great video 👍👍👍😎
If am doing resin craft on a big scale which method do u recommend
As long as you're making things that are small enough, a pressure pot is definitely the most reliable to avoid bubbles
Hello anyone reading this question. In regards to the ultrasonic cleaner to remove bubbles, wondering if you can put your resin filled mold directly into the ultrasonic cleaner. I ask as I purchased an ultrasonic cleaner recently and although the cleaner did remove all of the bubbles (very impressive), it was already in the curing / setting stage and was not real easy to pour on my tumbler. Will have to reduce the time for future reference. Although I plan on using resin to also fill molds. I'd like to remove all bubbles for the molds due to how deep the molds can be and that will make it harder to remove the bubbles, Figured if I could remove the bubbles directly in the mold in the ultrasonic cleaner. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
I havent tried it, but I suspect it might do the same thing as vacuum chambers and pull air/oils from the silicone and make it worse
@@LamellaCreations worse? Worse than what?
@@PAndrew002 Worse than not doing it. It ends up with tiny bubbles on all the inside surfaces
Uck. Now, I have to try this!
Whoch brand of resin do you recommend that isnt as thick and has low viscosity for deep pours?
I'm in NZ so only have experience with local brands, in general though just look for one with a longer curing time (2-3 days, or even longer for very deep pours)
How long should I leave the resin inside a pressure pot before taking it out and poring it on a mold?
For a pressure pot you should pour the resin into the mould and then place the mould into the pot until it's cured. The pot should mostly hold its pressure so you wont need to keep the compressor going or anything :)
@@LamellaCreations What if mould it too big to fit inside the pressure pot? Can you just put the resin to make the bubbles small and then take it out and pour it on the mould to cure? If you can then how long should the resin be left inside.
@@knight3131 Unfortunately not, the resin needs to be under pressure while it cures because otherwise the bubbles just expand again. If it doesn't fit then you'll need to use other methods to control the bubbles, a vacuum chamber might work for your use because that actually removes the bubbles :)
Had the sound all the way and I couldn't hear what you were saying. I am really interested in your video because my works suffer from the bubbles. P.S. I just watched another video just before I clicked on yours and the sound was fine. Thank You, I hope you will make a new video on this subject.
Yeah unfortunately youtube doesn't let me fix the sound now that it's uploaded, I have subtitles added if that helps :)
This is a very informative video! Can I ask, I’m getting bubbles in my cast pieces (small earring elements) which appear on the good side (the side that’s face down in the mould). They tend to be around the edges or in corners. How can I avoid this?
If they're there when you're pouring the resin in you can coax them out with a toothpick or similar (just be careful not to scratch the mould). If they only appear after a while that can be from a very low quality mould and the bubbles are leeching out from the silicone. Not much you can do about the second one but use different moulds
Would it be worthwhile to try the alcohol spray trick? Actually, what I did was take a silicone baby food spoon, dip it in a container with alcohol, shake off the extra alcohol back into the cup, and then dip the very lightly coated spoon onto the top bubbles in the mold, including corners. It pops the bubbles, but also using the spoon helps you direct the alcohol a little bit better to the bubbles you really want to pop.
Great video. Very concise. However, I didn’t catch what was said at 6:15. Some sort of spray to pop bubbles is used. What was that? Where from? Thanks
It's isopropyl alcohol put into a spray bottle (bought separately) . Mine is a sushi spray bottle from Daiso but anything that can mist finely will work. The higher the percentage of alcohol the better too
Gerat information, howlong to you leave the resin in a pressure pot fo like 20 ounces?
It will need to stay in until the resin is cured :)
SMART
Is alcohol usage for canvas art but not molds?
Alcohol spray can work for either, personally I'd go for a lighter/torch for canvas art and alcohol spray for moulds
Does this apply to UV resin aswell?
Nah, some of the things could help but others don't work for it
I have art resin and there’s millions of bubbles even after using a lighter. I now have a blow torch and am wondering if I can put the resin in an aluminum can before torching? Thanks :)
Artresin is a coating resin so it's best to torch after you've poured it over the artwork (as lighters/torches only work on surface bubbles). If you're wanting to use it as a casting resin you would need to use a pressure pot as it's an extremely thick resin, although warming it beforehand would help a small amount too
Hi what's the best thinner resin to get can you leave the name and link sometimes the links are not available thanks
It depends where you live as to what will be available :) In general if you look for a slower setting one it's often also thinner, or you can check the technical data sheet (TDS) of a resin you're interested in to find the viscosity
@@LamellaCreations ok thanks
what was the alcohol spray you used to pop the surface bubbles?
It's isopropyl alcohol that I just poured into a spray bottle that I got from a dollar store. It's also called rubbing alcohol some places (though I think some rubbing alcohols are ethanol instead- unsure whether ethanol based ones also work)
Hi, what is the ting you dip in te resin in the minute 6:36? Also the video was very helpful, thank you!
Oh it was just a random experiment I was doing at the same time. It's dyed dried leaves and I was seeing if they would leech the dye or not
Hey i have one question
after curing resin it is breaking so easily can you please tell me why this is happening.. I hope you will answer 🥺🥺🥺🥺
Hi, it depends on what sort of resin you're using and how big the thing is that you're making. UV resin in particular is very brittle and likely to break, but epoxy can also become brittle if something goes wrong with the curing process (e.g. if you pour past the maximum depth for your resin and it overheats).
So, what do you do when the resin already has bubbles in it before you even pour it? Just, hanging out in the resin bottle. Haven't mixed it with anything. It already has *tons* of microbubbles even after letting it sit in hot water. I've tried so many resin types and brands - they all *start* with bubbles already in them.
A pressure pot would fix that problem, or get a deep pour resin as they're generally thinner
Hi, my wife is getting in to resin art and using the heating method after mixing her resin set almost immediately, how can she avoid this in the future?
Hiya, yeah you have to be careful not to overheat it if it's a fast setting resin. I'd try heating it a little less hot (and only heating the resin, not the hardener). Another thing that can affect it is the amount being mixed and the shape of the container, because overheating can happen even without warming it before. Mixing smaller amounts will make it less likely to overheat, and using a wider container to mix in so that there's more surface area for heat to dissipate :)
So naic think u
When i pour resin in the mold without bubble, bubble came when it get cured. Have solution?
Can be several causes:
-Very low quality silicone moulds can create bubbles after pouring on the surface of the moulds
-Putting porous things like paper, wood etc. that release bubbles into the resin
-If there are large oddly shaped bubbles the resin likely got too hot and boiled
@@LamellaCreations thanks 🙏💕
Bonjour Lamella Créations, je me permets de vous écrire afin de vous poser une question concernant la création d’un moulage. Pourriez-vous me dire lorsque je chauffe ma résine sur un réchauffe tasse afin de retirer les bulles de la résine, s’il faut attendre que la résine refroidisse ensuite avant de la verser dans un moule en silicone ? Dans l’attente de votre réponse je vous remercie beaucoup et vous souhaite une agréable journée.
Cordialement.
You can pour when it's warm with no problem. Just be careful that the resin itself doesn't get too hot as it can cause a flash cure :)
@@LamellaCreations Hello Lamella Creations, I thank you for answering me, it's very nice of you. Indeed, your advice will be very precious to me, among other things to avoid the formation of bubbles in my resin, because I have never worked with resin before. I will certainly have several other questions to ask you if you allow me? One of them would be; Could you tell me at what temperature I can heat my resin before pouring it in the silicone mold I made? My second question is; Can I use a syringe to introduce the resin into my silicone mold without the risk of infiltrating air into my mold? If you are interested, let me give you some details about the work I am doing. I modeled in 3D a miniature car at 1/64 scale and I made it printed in 3D, but to be able to realize the transparent windshield I cannot count on the technology of the 3D printing because this last one is not still able to realize totally transparent parts at best it is able to realize translucent parts, but that is not appropriate to realize windows. My alternative is to model the windshield in 3D then to print it in 3D and to use this windshield as a print to be able to realize a silicone mold in which I would pour then transparent and liquid resin.
I thank you again for answering me and I wish you a nice day.
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@@davidboudier6982 I'm not sure of an exact temperature as I usually just feel it with my hand until it seems right. I aim to use water that is warm, but not uncomfortably hot. I also only warm the resin, not the hardener, and definitely not after it's been mixed. It will also depend on the cure time of your resin, as ones meant for shallow pours may not be able to be heated without causing problems.
I tried using a syringe recently and found it made a lot of bubbles, I know other people use them though so it might be a matter of quality and having a large enough one
@@LamellaCreations Hello Lamella, thank you very much for your reply.
I wish you an excellent weekend.
Sincerely.
My issue is my bubbled come when I pour them into the mold. And they never come out.
When you pour try angling the mould so that you're pouring down the sides of it
Tried the ultrasonic cleaner today with med viscosity resin (after warming it in water and mixing) Did not help at all.
Too bad, this would have been great if it worked.
Yeah it's only really for low viscosity resin unfortunately