My slightly later X-Type registered in January 2010 (manufactured in 2009) had a different configuration of the back seats. I followed your procedure and removed the back seats only to discover that the double back panel could be released from its passenger side hinge by lowering flat and pulling up at the bottom. But first I had to release the catches from inside the boot - "CATCH22". I got an old spanner and taped it to a stick and poked it in under the backs which I pull up and used the stick/spanner to release the top of the seats. Back on track I got the lock cover off without breaking it and the boot open - easier in my X Type as there was no frame in the way like yours, so I got into the boot myself. What a relief to get the boot open! And then I examined the wiring, only to find three wires broken (the boot light hadn't been working for a long time). I soldered in new lengths of wire at both ends and wrapped with electrician's tape (no heat sink to be found) and tested furiously. So boot lock and boot light now works perfectly. "Thanks a million" - this would have cost at least 300euro to get a mechanic/automobile electrician to do. Anyway, it was a trick to get it all back in place. I am still surprised that even in this late X Type there was no pull cable at the place the US cousins have! MODS to follow: I will install a pull cord in the lock and upgrade the boot light now I know I have power going to the fitting - a strong LED light strip. Thanks for a great video that helped me get this scary job done! I'd recommend anyone with an X type to check all the wires that cross the door openings as even a frayed wire can cause voltage drain and upset the battery. Last thing, I had this same problem with my previous cars after 8 - 10 years of VW golf but being a hatchback it was easy to get into the boot, and an old Renault's back seats could be got down from the cabin.
Thanks for sharing that Thomas, what a relief! Useful information for different models and a shame they didn't think about such an issue. Perhaps it would be possible to extend a release cable into the cabin with bicycle cable maybe? Great car, but mine has stopped again and won't start - fuel pressure issue, but haven't been able to fix yet :-)
Probably at Jaguar they never imagined a scenario where the lock doesn't operate. That's a lot harder than on many other cars I wonder how the dealer would've handle it Great tutorial as always
Good job! My Jag is equipped with a folding rear seat and sometimes I just don't lock the seat back so that I could fold it from the cabin in case of necessity. But more often the boot lock fails in a rainy weather due to some moisture on the contacts. I just start the engine, press on the accelerator several times and when the voltage in system increases, easily unlock the boot. To tell you the truth I have never had a broken boot lock wire.
Thanks, It only takes a couple of minutes to check the wires behind the rubber boot, so maybe worth doing. From what you say your battery maybe loosing power when stood, best to check that before it fails altogether. The solenoid should work over about 7.6V.
@@HatBoyHarvey Yes, agree with you. It turns out that sometimes in a rainy weather there is no 7.6V on my solenoid. By the way the engine starter works over about 10.5V in the same conditions.
Thank you for this excellent video. 2008 X Type with split folding seats. I was able to remove the seat cushion (I found €5.80), removed (eventually) the 6 T50 bolts, some very corroded, I used a cup hook on a stick to operate the back rest release. Today I located a broken wire in the bellows. Repaired the wire and lock operating normally. Thank you.
I found another solution on a Jag. Forum. If the number plate lights flicker when you press the button and you hear the mechanism whirr, then it is the earth wire that has broken. So take the number plate lights out and connect a wire from one of the light socket earth terminals to a good earth- I sanded down a small area on the rear suspension. Bingo! The boot popped open on pressing the button. It is then a case of locating the break in the wire and connecting up the two ends. I used a new piece of wire, as suggested here. Saves taking the seats out or scrambling through the back to reach the mechanism.
I have the same problem today, I encountered it when I was at home on the button, the lights of the registration number oscillate and the trunk doesn't open every time I hear the mechanism as if it doesn't have the power to open, I don't know what to do
@@danieldani3718 TL:DR - should be super easy, super cheap fix, sounds like a ground cable is on its way out. Get it fixed before it goes and you loose access to the boot altogether (at least without going in through the back seat bench as demonstrated in the video). I realise that your comment is 4 months old now, so it's likely you have resolved your issue since then....but on the off chance that you are still experiencing this problem, I'm guessing that intermittent boot opening has probably gotten worse. You have a frayed ground/earth. Definitely fix it before it finally goes as it will become a whole lot harder once that badger's gone 🦡. It is highly likely you'll find the culprit in the rubber sleeved boot loom as those wires are constantly subjected to friction and stress (comparatively to the rest of the loom in the boot itself). If you aren't that familiar with car mechanics or electrics, do not worry. It will be a simple, easy to do fix that'll cost no more than a couple of coppers (plus cost of a soldering iron - wouldn't spend more than £20 on one as it'll be a seldom used emergency tool - it'll just take an eternity to get to temperature but a cheap one will get the job done) for the cost of a small spool of sleeved wire and electrical tape. Solder usually comes with new soldering irons, but if you are really adverse to soldering, for a fraction of the price you can just use a wire connector - they're sold in strips at numerous DIY stores (such as B&Q) but work out to be 33p each!!! (Just make sure you really cinch the screws down deathly tight, and to wrap it up in electrical tape to reduce the friction on neighbouring cables. Also add an additional 10-15mm of wire to give a little extra slack without overly allowing for movement induced friction whilst reducing the risk of a tear-out from the connector occurring - I trust them personally, but they are only ever going to be as strong as a mediocre solder job [this is only a theory as one is a pressure/friction bond whilst one is literally welded, it wasn't until I literally just said it out loud that the theory lost my confidence as I've made some pretty nice connections with the cheap little 33p plastic housed brass connector, cinched down with the tiny flat head brass screws, that I would confidently claim to support my body weight - albeit the wire itself would break under that strain - which is exactly why I am changing my vote of confidence as the wire, including welded joints - made of metal significantly softer than the wire's copper core I might add, is in it's entirety, unable to support my 'humble' frame whilst the connector could, ergo, in the random, rambling mumblings of a random person who happened to be watching X-type fixes on TH-cam, responding to a complete stranger's car trouble that is over four months old's opinion - the connector may be stronger 💪 I am intrigued by this so I will genuinely investigate this totally irrelevant theory in my laboratory next week for no other reason than curiousity - and to know the answer with authority rather then hypothesising - if anyone is actually interested in this {and still reading this insane completely derailed comment!!! BTW, we are in parentheses cubed if anyone is counting. I'm have also realised I have been more meta, significantly less serious, and genuinely consumed by thoughts of people, strangers I have never meet, what are they thinking about my opinion, are they finding my writing informative, or are they all just incredibly annoyed with me, picking holes in my writing style or grammar? Will they attempt to discredit me and my tear me down? Will my advice get slammed as dangerous? Perhaps no one will ever read this and these ramblings are to preserved in a YT server bank until additional data storage is required and server wipe is conducted, by a maintenance manager called Steve under the authority of faceless senior corporate wo/man from YT, and in a cold, heartless snap, but without malicious intent or malice or scorn, a click, an uncaring left mouse button press, this comment will simply disappear into the Aether, never to be read, appreciated, enjoyed or loathed} I am more then willing to post the results in a reply to this comment lol]) so will never be as good as a soldered joint but, it will be a solid connection, at the cost of a little less stability (those screws in the connector are going to be subjected to frequent and extreme temperature variations AND road vibrations as is the nature to a car interior, resulting in the risk of screws working themselves a little loose - after all, they are only designed for cozy environments behind dry wall etc.) but still a connection I would trust for this particular job. After you have decided upon the method of wire repair you'll need to peel back the rubber hosing that protects the boot hatch loom (top left when standing in front of open boot). Use a flat head screwdriver (or a plastic trim tool if available) and being careful not to damage the body work or the rubber hosing lift the edges out of their seat. Do this for both ends and inspect the loom's wires individually. I wouldn't be expecting a severed wire in your case, so you'll have to look a little harder for your culprit (or culprits). Anyway once you have identified your badger repair it in the manner of your choosing, you'll also need some wire cutters/strippers but if you are handy with a sharp blade that'll work in a pinch. Just remember to disconnect your battery before cutting into your loom, you may end up blowing a fuse. Once the wire/s is/are patched up reconnect your battery and check to see if that has resolved the issue To anybody who actually made it this far... Sorry for such a long and erratic comment for an issue that may have been resolved months ago. I seldom comment on YT videos (I think this is my third comment since 2007!!) and I can see why!!! I hope this little piece of literature either helped someone with an issue with their car, or at the very least my ramblings resulted in a smile
Great patience and improvisational skill in getting the job done. Is there no key opening above the back number plate below the chrome as a provision for opening the boot? Many thanks.
I know you added the dialogue during editing because you must have been swearing your head off doing this. Very well done mate and well im not gonna mention the slippers either.
Whilst working through each issue to open the boot I just couldn't fathem how the designers hadn't thought to put some kind of safeguard alternative in place for such an occurrence. Yes, obviously swearing did take place. Slippers are the wife's :-)
The XF has similar problems. The wiring loom in the boot lid gets stretched and cramped causing the wires to break or short. I have parking sensors that can detect ghosts, apparently.
Thanks for sharing that. It can be a real nuisance if you can't get access somtimes and yes I've often felt a presence from behind on a dark windy night in the middle of nowhere :-)
How come you didn’t use the emergency boot release to open it from inside the car at the start? Did yours break or does the car not even come with one?
Good morning please my skoda fabia 2004 has a problem in poor steering when going to work lamp poor turn on go to watch oil it's good trying turn car on the batry is off Idont know what the reason to go off the batry.... please explain....
@@HatBoyHarvey yes working very good but sometimes the lamp on thin Iook if oil enough or not Ifind it very good try to turn on my car battery don't help the car to on
Hello HatBoy! This is nothing to do with the present video, but I recall your familiarity with the Skoda Fabia MK1 door lock mechanisms. I have 2007 Fabia 1.2 HTP with a 100,000 on the clock. It is good solid little car, and what with recent new tyres, exhaust, battery etc it is worth more to me than its £500 list price. The problems started with the front passenger door lock not working, which it still doesn't, I use the key manually now, not the remote, now the offside passenger door wont unlock. If the doors can't open then it becomes an MOT failure. The local dealer quotes telephone number figures just to look at it. Is there any work around, can I disable the central locking somehow? Thanks for any advice, Finlay Fraser.
You will have to open the door, but that is easier said than done. you can manage to get the inner panel off by taking the seat and seat back out (also check wires/connections behind bellows on B-pillar). This gives you the opportunity to check all the electrical plugs and wires and hopefully get the thing to open. You must make sure both front doors work first though. Replace (change out the micro-switch if money is tight) the drivers side lock first, then passengers; carefully check/ investigate the wires/connections - (wire breaks often occur behind A-pillar rubber bellows). Seal inner panels if water is getting in (inc rear door when open) Also make sure your battery is good as the system doesn't like low voltage or damp weather. On the MOT failure - understandable as you wouldn't want a small child trapped inside if it set on fire! - my garage hardly ever checks such things!?
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
My slightly later X-Type registered in January 2010 (manufactured in 2009) had a different configuration of the back seats. I followed your procedure and removed the back seats only to discover that the double back panel could be released from its passenger side hinge by lowering flat and pulling up at the bottom. But first I had to release the catches from inside the boot - "CATCH22". I got an old spanner and taped it to a stick and poked it in under the backs which I pull up and used the stick/spanner to release the top of the seats.
Back on track I got the lock cover off without breaking it and the boot open - easier in my X Type as there was no frame in the way like yours, so I got into the boot myself. What a relief to get the boot open!
And then I examined the wiring, only to find three wires broken (the boot light hadn't been working for a long time). I soldered in new lengths of wire at both ends and wrapped with electrician's tape (no heat sink to be found) and tested furiously. So boot lock and boot light now works perfectly. "Thanks a million" - this would have cost at least 300euro to get a mechanic/automobile electrician to do.
Anyway, it was a trick to get it all back in place. I am still surprised that even in this late X Type there was no pull cable at the place the US cousins have!
MODS to follow: I will install a pull cord in the lock and upgrade the boot light now I know I have power going to the fitting - a strong LED light strip.
Thanks for a great video that helped me get this scary job done!
I'd recommend anyone with an X type to check all the wires that cross the door openings as even a frayed wire can cause voltage drain and upset the battery.
Last thing, I had this same problem with my previous cars after 8 - 10 years of VW golf but being a hatchback it was easy to get into the boot, and an old Renault's back seats could be got down from the cabin.
Thanks for sharing that Thomas, what a relief! Useful information for different models and a shame they didn't think about such an issue. Perhaps it would be possible to extend a release cable into the cabin with bicycle cable maybe? Great car, but mine has stopped again and won't start - fuel pressure issue, but haven't been able to fix yet :-)
Probably at Jaguar they never imagined a scenario where the lock doesn't operate. That's a lot harder than on many other cars
I wonder how the dealer would've handle it
Great tutorial as always
Good job! My Jag is equipped with a folding rear seat and sometimes I just don't lock the seat back so that I could fold it from the cabin in case of necessity. But more often the boot lock fails in a rainy weather due to some moisture on the contacts. I just start the engine, press on the accelerator several times and when the voltage in system increases, easily unlock the boot. To tell you the truth I have never had a broken boot lock wire.
Thanks, It only takes a couple of minutes to check the wires behind the rubber boot, so maybe worth doing. From what you say your battery maybe loosing power when stood, best to check that before it fails altogether. The solenoid should work over about 7.6V.
@@HatBoyHarvey Yes, agree with you. It turns out that sometimes in a rainy weather there is no 7.6V on my solenoid. By the way the engine starter works over about 10.5V in the same conditions.
This is how all car repair videos I hope look and sound like. Unfortunately hardly any others do. Well done you
Thanks 👍
Thank you for this excellent video. 2008 X Type with split folding seats. I was able to remove the seat cushion (I found €5.80), removed (eventually) the 6 T50 bolts, some very corroded, I used a cup hook on a stick to operate the back rest release.
Today I located a broken wire in the bellows. Repaired the wire and lock operating normally.
Thank you.
Great, glad you were able to sort the issues out, hopefully with the help of my little video :-)
H you have a lot more patience than me mate , I would have probably gone straight to a crowbar 😁 great work as always 👍👍
Yep, I know what you mean, went through that so had a sit down and cup of tea before attempting it methodically :-)
I found another solution on a Jag. Forum. If the number plate lights flicker when you press the button and you hear the mechanism whirr, then it is the earth wire that has broken. So take the number plate lights out and connect a wire from one of the light socket earth terminals to a good earth- I sanded down a small area on the rear suspension. Bingo! The boot popped open on pressing the button. It is then a case of locating the break in the wire and connecting up the two ends. I used a new piece of wire, as suggested here. Saves taking the seats out or scrambling through the back to reach the mechanism.
Thanks for sharing that. I tried that on mine first, but didn't bother filming my testing and it didn't work for me as the lights were working OK :-)
I have the same problem today, I encountered it when I was at home on the button, the lights of the registration number oscillate and the trunk doesn't open every time I hear the mechanism as if it doesn't have the power to open, I don't know what to do
Just I make ago 5 mins like you say its work I open trunk so easy like that and I found black wire broken now its fixed tanks for sharing this 😊😊😊
@@danieldani3718
TL:DR - should be super easy, super cheap fix, sounds like a ground cable is on its way out. Get it fixed before it goes and you loose access to the boot altogether (at least without going in through the back seat bench as demonstrated in the video).
I realise that your comment is 4 months old now, so it's likely you have resolved your issue since then....but on the off chance that you are still experiencing this problem, I'm guessing that intermittent boot opening has probably gotten worse.
You have a frayed ground/earth. Definitely fix it before it finally goes as it will become a whole lot harder once that badger's gone 🦡. It is highly likely you'll find the culprit in the rubber sleeved boot loom as those wires are constantly subjected to friction and stress (comparatively to the rest of the loom in the boot itself).
If you aren't that familiar with car mechanics or electrics, do not worry. It will be a simple, easy to do fix that'll cost no more than a couple of coppers (plus cost of a soldering iron - wouldn't spend more than £20 on one as it'll be a seldom used emergency tool - it'll just take an eternity to get to temperature but a cheap one will get the job done) for the cost of a small spool of sleeved wire and electrical tape. Solder usually comes with new soldering irons, but if you are really adverse to soldering, for a fraction of the price you can just use a wire connector - they're sold in strips at numerous DIY stores (such as B&Q) but work out to be 33p each!!! (Just make sure you really cinch the screws down deathly tight, and to wrap it up in electrical tape to reduce the friction on neighbouring cables. Also add an additional 10-15mm of wire to give a little extra slack without overly allowing for movement induced friction whilst reducing the risk of a tear-out from the connector occurring - I trust them personally, but they are only ever going to be as strong as a mediocre solder job [this is only a theory as one is a pressure/friction bond whilst one is literally welded, it wasn't until I literally just said it out loud that the theory lost my confidence as I've made some pretty nice connections with the cheap little 33p plastic housed brass connector, cinched down with the tiny flat head brass screws, that I would confidently claim to support my body weight - albeit the wire itself would break under that strain - which is exactly why I am changing my vote of confidence as the wire, including welded joints - made of metal significantly softer than the wire's copper core I might add, is in it's entirety, unable to support my 'humble' frame whilst the connector could, ergo, in the random, rambling mumblings of a random person who happened to be watching X-type fixes on TH-cam, responding to a complete stranger's car trouble that is over four months old's opinion - the connector may be stronger 💪 I am intrigued by this so I will genuinely investigate this totally irrelevant theory in my laboratory next week for no other reason than curiousity - and to know the answer with authority rather then hypothesising - if anyone is actually interested in this {and still reading this insane completely derailed comment!!! BTW, we are in parentheses cubed if anyone is counting. I'm have also realised I have been more meta, significantly less serious, and genuinely consumed by thoughts of people, strangers I have never meet, what are they thinking about my opinion, are they finding my writing informative, or are they all just incredibly annoyed with me, picking holes in my writing style or grammar? Will they attempt to discredit me and my tear me down? Will my advice get slammed as dangerous? Perhaps no one will ever read this and these ramblings are to preserved in a YT server bank until additional data storage is required and server wipe is conducted, by a maintenance manager called Steve under the authority of faceless senior corporate wo/man from YT, and in a cold, heartless snap, but without malicious intent or malice or scorn, a click, an uncaring left mouse button press, this comment will simply disappear into the Aether, never to be read, appreciated, enjoyed or loathed} I am more then willing to post the results in a reply to this comment lol]) so will never be as good as a soldered joint but, it will be a solid connection, at the cost of a little less stability (those screws in the connector are going to be subjected to frequent and extreme temperature variations AND road vibrations as is the nature to a car interior, resulting in the risk of screws working themselves a little loose - after all, they are only designed for cozy environments behind dry wall etc.) but still a connection I would trust for this particular job.
After you have decided upon the method of wire repair you'll need to peel back the rubber hosing that protects the boot hatch loom (top left when standing in front of open boot). Use a flat head screwdriver (or a plastic trim tool if available) and being careful not to damage the body work or the rubber hosing lift the edges out of their seat. Do this for both ends and inspect the loom's wires individually. I wouldn't be expecting a severed wire in your case, so you'll have to look a little harder for your culprit (or culprits). Anyway once you have identified your badger repair it in the manner of your choosing, you'll also need some wire cutters/strippers but if you are handy with a sharp blade that'll work in a pinch. Just remember to disconnect your battery before cutting into your loom, you may end up blowing a fuse. Once the wire/s is/are patched up reconnect your battery and check to see if that has resolved the issue
To anybody who actually made it this far...
Sorry for such a long and erratic comment for an issue that may have been resolved months ago. I seldom comment on YT videos (I think this is my third comment since 2007!!) and I can see why!!!
I hope this little piece of literature either helped someone with an issue with their car, or at the very least my ramblings resulted in a smile
That's a neat 'works van' you have there 😀 Thank you, interesting problem solving video 👍
Thanks 👍glad you enjoyed it :-)
brilliant timing ,, my boot is struggling to open,, probably just need greasing .. this will help getting to the mechanism
Before it fails have a look at the wiring going to the boot to see if it needs a bit but TLC.
Great patience and improvisational skill in getting the job done. Is there no key opening above the back number plate below the chrome as a provision for opening the boot? Many thanks.
Thanks, unfortunately there isn't a manual way of getting into the boot without going inside :-)
Well Done ! You don't give up easy ! Cheers Eddie
I keep going until I have a satisfactory end result :-)
Brilliant !! Thank you.
You're very welcome :-)
Thank, you for you're helpful video.👍
You're, welcome.👍
Great video, thanks
You're welcome :-)
I know you added the dialogue during editing because you must have been swearing your head off doing this. Very well done mate and well im not gonna mention the slippers either.
Whilst working through each issue to open the boot I just couldn't fathem how the designers hadn't thought to put some kind of safeguard alternative in place for such an occurrence. Yes, obviously swearing did take place. Slippers are the wife's :-)
Well done! Thanks!
My pleasure :-)
The XF has similar problems. The wiring loom in the boot lid gets stretched and cramped causing the wires to break or short. I have parking sensors that can detect ghosts, apparently.
Thanks for sharing that. It can be a real nuisance if you can't get access somtimes and yes I've often felt a presence from behind on a dark windy night in the middle of nowhere :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey yes, it can be quite disconcerting to be never sure what is coming up behind.🙄
@@I_Don_t_want_a_handle and then you would be well shafted! ;-)
nice repair!
Nobody gonna mention the slippers? 😂
Sshh the wife may hear you :-)
How come you didn’t use the emergency boot release to open it from inside the car at the start? Did yours break or does the car not even come with one?
Yep, The UK version I have doesn't come with the emergency boot release, how bad is that! :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey I ended up just plugging in a solar panel and getting a little bit of charge to open the trunk.
Good morning please my skoda fabia 2004 has a problem in poor steering when going to work lamp poor turn on go to watch oil it's good trying turn car on the batry is off Idont know what the reason to go off the batry.... please explain....
Sorry, I don't understand. I think the translation is poor. Please explain a little more. Is your power-steering working correctly or not?
@@HatBoyHarvey yes working very good but sometimes the lamp on thin Iook if oil enough or not Ifind it very good try to turn on my car battery don't help the car to on
If the key fob doesn''t work, as long as the car is unlocked, there is a button above the license plate and below the chrome that will open it.
My button didn't work either, hence the video :-)
Hello HatBoy! This is nothing to do with the present video, but I recall your familiarity with the Skoda Fabia MK1 door lock mechanisms. I have 2007 Fabia 1.2 HTP with a 100,000 on the clock. It is good solid little car, and what with recent new tyres, exhaust, battery etc it is worth more to me than its £500 list price. The problems started with the front passenger door lock not working, which it still doesn't, I use the key manually now, not the remote, now the offside passenger door wont unlock. If the doors can't open then it becomes an MOT failure. The local dealer quotes telephone number figures just to look at it. Is there any work around, can I disable the central locking somehow? Thanks for any advice, Finlay Fraser.
You will have to open the door, but that is easier said than done. you can manage to get the inner panel off by taking the seat and seat back out (also check wires/connections behind bellows on B-pillar). This gives you the opportunity to check all the electrical plugs and wires and hopefully get the thing to open. You must make sure both front doors work first though. Replace (change out the micro-switch if money is tight) the drivers side lock first, then passengers; carefully check/ investigate the wires/connections - (wire breaks often occur behind A-pillar rubber bellows). Seal inner panels if water is getting in (inc rear door when open) Also make sure your battery is good as the system doesn't like low voltage or damp weather. On the MOT failure - understandable as you wouldn't want a small child trapped inside if it set on fire! - my garage hardly ever checks such things!?
There is a hole above the number plate on left hand side, it's a keyhole.... you can unlock it manually !!
Maybe I should drill one, but then others could get in easily :-/
My jag x type has a dead battery, and my jumper cables are in the boot😭 thank you
this is literally the reason why I have my jumper cables under the driver's seat :D Been there, done that.
That's not a boot.... its a storage unit!
Otvara se iznutra magare jedno iz auta se otvara ispod sedišta je dugme konjino😂😂😂😂