That's a great tip. We have used a strip of green painter's tape on both ends of the razor blade as a depth gauge to prevent us from scraping too deep into the paint surface.
There are a lot of ways to take a run out. The razor blade method works best for heavy runs. Make sure the razor blade is new. A used one may gauge the paint and require a respray. Once you have the bulk of the run out, I suggest 800 grit on a hard block (a paint paddle will work). Use soap and water with the 800 grit, Watch carefully to make sure you are only sanding the run. Once you can no longer see the run, switch to 1500 using the same block with soap and water. Wipe the area with a hard rubber squeegee and this should show you if any of the run is left. Remember you must get the bulk of the run out with the 800. Fine sandpaper will do very little to remove runs. Move on to 2000 or 3000 wet sandpaper and then machine compound and polish.
The best way , Not to get runs is simple ! Don’t try and get a finish until the last coat !Check paint is tack dry before applying another coat ( touch masking tape to find out ) patience is a virtue ! You won’t get runs if you take time and don’t put heavy coats on to start with !
Viewing this because I have a run in my paint. Fortunately, not as bad as that one. You did a great job. Gives me some confidence that I can do the same.
That was a good quality run. No charge for the extra paint. Out of all the methods I have tried that is what works best for me. Looks like it came out good.
Nice Sagger sir... Finally, a how to video from someone who actually has a right to make one, rather than some of us amateurs out there! You are right about the runs always showing up and seeing he ripples in certain light, elco looks good overall.
It helps to take the blade to a piece of glass to hone it, you can also round the corners of the blade slightly before using. Go slow because you can't add just subtract.
the best solution ive found is cutting it with a razor blade and then coming right behind it with 1000 grit on a paint stick... i promise it comes out the best. also heard of using glazing putty over the run but it takes a loooooong time wet sanding that out lol. great work buddy!
the problem is that you guys use soft block to sand.... try one block of plastic or wood or something realy hard and 100% flat, start with 800 , 1000 ,1500. 2000. it will desapear.
@@edmarflash I have a plastic block thats a half inch thick. I dont use razors if the clear is still slightly soft it will grab and a chunk will come off. So I use my plastic block with 600 wet and as soon as its flat work my way up to 2000.
try surrounding the run with a finish body filler (green), then sand it down with 320, when you have nearly all the body filler and excess paint removed, switch to 600... once all that is back to base paint (or clear when using touch up), go over with 1200, then polish. the fine body filler keeps your sand paper off the original paint and clear while you are taking down the high spots of the touch up paint or paint run. good luck, and keep it shiny
I used to use spot putty the same way. So you can level the run and spot putty down at the same time. I dont know how anyone can polish anything finer than 2000 though. I nib with 1500 then trizact always. Make polishing 10x faster
Guys at my old shop used to use a small piece of panel beaters body panel file and run it over the top of the run , it would only take the run out and not touch the other paint work. Hope it’s a better technique 👍🏻
One hanger not bad at all. That clear coat looks professional or even artificial, looks like no orange peel at all. I used to stay in the booth an extra 20 minutes armed with paper towel after the last coat waiting for the hanger monsters to come out.
Light Fine metalics are hard to spray glossy, without motling or metallic sag in single stage, I now always spray them in two stage, lighter color coats don't mottle or sag as easy, then gloss it up with clear coat, I avoid runs by walking the full length, don't overlap at the edges 😎 other than the run looks nice and straight.
I will razor blade the tops of the runs down and then use a piece of wood as a block. any durablock will form to the run and you'll have troubles getting it flat. just my personal experience. I enjoy your videos!
+Ryan Manzella thanks, I try to get the run completely flat before I do any sanding, But I do have a piece of aluminum square stock that I use for a block, because you are completely right abut the dureblocks.
dirtswimmer btw i forgot to mention that the bondimino looks awesome, as you said its meant to be driven and i hope it does what it was meant to do, put smiles for miles
Put small amount of filler over and sand till the run is gone. The filler will protect the rest and you only sand the run. This only works for run in clear coat.
Any way to fix it if the run consists of a base coat as well? I can’t tell , I have a small run on the lower corner of the back bumper. Bought the car like that , I was planning to wet sand the high points with 1000 grit. Thanks
Looks similar to the run i got in the passenger door, thanks for the tip on how to deal with it. I couldn't see the run after you sanded it, so it passes the 3 feet away rule lol. Looks good all around!
Mike F your job nice and my neme is akhlak ansari my wark penting i ful cantri job i 12 cllas riding and i indian my mobael nambar 7309066561 i your cantri warking. my selri supr i am come you i maesej
Great job sir ..I have tons of runs on the passenger side of my truck door ..Unfortunately it’s the first coat of clear ,,my question is can I sand the runs down till it’s smooth then spray the second coat over ?
Looks exactly like some shit in a 1 stage rustoleum PJ I did earlier this evening; thank GOD I've got razor blades handy. Thanks for the vid and info...
ugh, I had to mute the video. That was brutal on the ears, but ive tried this a few times and not very successful at it. I usually tape around the runs or put a skim coat of spot putty around the runs so i can block with 600, then refine all the way to 3000. Polishes right up
use some slow reducer your pearls .... and step it back on every coat your pearl to lay down it won't model or bloch.... give that a try I think you'll like it
put tape around the edges of the razor blade each side leaving nuff space for run in the middle then you dont got to worry about scraching away from run
Hard to make those runs disappear when they are real tall. Sometimes you get em' out and sometimes you don't. Much easier to hide when they're small, lol
Instead off bending the blade I use masking tape on both edges I find it much easier make a U with masking tape around the blade easier to hold the blade also if run really bad I use putty let it get hard start with 400 wet then 800 then 1000 then 1500
The filler is a base so you went burn through the paint. You'll end up removing the rest of the filler as you start wet sanding. I really don't think it matter but maybe one that has a polymer base, I believe. There's a few videos on TH-cam how to do this. Each person's technique is a little different.
Good stuff sir! What happened to Jim and Angel....not a peep? Even the tunes were off. You must be cracking the whip at the SYF Garage. Thanks for the update Matt.
WOW... That scared me to death watching that. LOL.. I have been doing body work and paint for over 30 years now and have never seen anyone take a razor blade to a car like that!! Give me a piece of sand paper and a block, I promise I won't ruin a paint job with that!!!! But it does look nice now!!
+OHIOFIGHTFAN lol Defiantly have to know how to use it to not screw it up. Most painters I know use the razor blade method. Generally I prefer not to get them in the first place. But for some reason when i'm doing something at home like this I get in a hurry and like to create problems lol.
This is why im starting to think i could do a paintjob at home... spray paint it myself, if there are any imperfections such as orange peel and small particles wetsand it and polish it, if there are any runs do it the way you did it
Looks like it turned out quite well. As for the runs, meh it's not a show car trailer queen so don't beat yourself up on it. There's always a point you have to just say 'That's good enough' it's hard to do it at times but you got to know when to say enough is enough!!
You can use the green scuff paper (about 600grit). Then use 1500, then 2000 (maybe also 2500 or 3000). Should be smooth to the touch. You might have to retouch with base or clear depending on what you are doin
Man this car looks so good now sweet job. Your opinion did you like that urekem paint? I was looking at purchasing the sunset orange pearl Base/clear for my 71 C10 when I am ready. It is so much cheaper then buying paint here at the local shops, So cheap that it's kind of scary lol
Gotta have THE PAINTERS EYE, to catch stuff that a lotta folks don't when looking at a paint job; my neighbor liked what I did on my car. I responded well I got a few sags to wet sand when it DRIES... They were like Oh? Then there's the persistent imperfections even after all the bondo and body work; well if you are doing a rush job in an apt complex parking lot, hoping no one bitches and complains to the mangmnt, you are bound to get a "perfect fuck up every time." LOL!!!
I've noticed that some clears every clear is different when they run some clears are harder to get out than others I like to knock my clear down with about 800 Grit and 1000 depending on the type of thousand grit sandpaper it is cuz that makes a difference also 800 knocks it down a lot quicker I'll go over it with a thousand either wet da and I'll go over it with 2,000 by hand and mm on a 6-inch d a foam pad pen 3000 and sometimes four and five thousand I guess it just depends but I've not learned that some clears you can go all the way down with 600 grit like if it's a 2K High build euroclear whoever the brand is if it's really thick you can go down with 600 grit and cut and polish it and you don't see the scratches now some of these cheaper clears that claim to be good clear you can still see the scratch marks in it like I'm using Matrix 42 right now I just knocked down with 800 the way up to 3,000 and I'm using an 800 grit and finer compound Presta which is pretty good but I find to seem that even with a wool pad I used to pads one rule with my heavy cut I get it to where I see no scratches then my Waffle pad and a quick-release 3M and then I use HD poly hand glaze and then it looks like glass at least that's what I'm used to use in three compounds two pads
My God dude! Post a warning before that "fingernail to the chalkboard" sound right off the bat lol. I couldn't get the volume down fast enuff lol Good job!
without baking the runs, the longer you can wait the better. You will be able to tell if the clear is still to soft when you start sanding or scraping it. I'd wait at least 2-3 days before trying.
Sneaky TX Venom depends on on the product, if your baking it or air dry, if air dry I say few days to make sure it not soft and cured, if it’s baked then you can polish it on same day but I advise leave it till next morning as it still can be soft the clear coat
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
That's a great tip. We have used a strip of green painter's tape on both ends of the razor blade as a depth gauge to prevent us from scraping too deep into the paint surface.
***** Good tip! I have done that in the past as well..
There are a lot of ways to take a run out. The razor blade method works best for heavy runs. Make sure the razor blade is new. A used one may gauge the paint and require a respray. Once you have the bulk of the run out, I suggest 800 grit on a hard block (a paint paddle will work). Use soap and water with the 800 grit, Watch carefully to make sure you are only sanding the run. Once you can no longer see the run, switch to 1500 using the same block with soap and water. Wipe the area with a hard rubber squeegee and this should show you if any of the run is left. Remember you must get the bulk of the run out with the 800. Fine sandpaper will do very little to remove runs. Move on to 2000 or 3000 wet sandpaper and then machine compound and polish.
When I paint light colors in the warehouse all the bugs in the area come to inspect my jobs. 😆😆
Lol
Yea!. I had 3 mosquitoes visit me tonight... they now have a new bright white home.
The best way , Not to get runs is simple ! Don’t try and get a finish until the last coat !Check paint is tack dry before applying another coat ( touch masking tape to find out ) patience is a virtue ! You won’t get runs if you take time and don’t put heavy coats on to start with !
Thank you for sharing this tip, especially by bending the razor so it doesn't scratch your paint!
Viewing this because I have a run in my paint. Fortunately, not as bad as that one. You did a great job. Gives me some confidence that I can do the same.
That was a good quality run. No charge for the extra paint. Out of all the methods I have tried that is what works best for me. Looks like it came out good.
I was a little nervous when the razor blade was doing it's thing, but you pulled it off, no runs, no drips, no errors......lol Great job!
Nice Sagger sir... Finally, a how to video from someone who actually has a right to make one, rather than some of us amateurs out there! You are right about the runs always showing up and seeing he ripples in certain light, elco looks good overall.
It helps to take the blade to a piece of glass to hone it, you can also round the corners of the blade slightly before using. Go slow because you can't add just subtract.
Proper distance overlap and gun speed is the best way to fix a run lol.. although looks like you saved it. Good job
the best solution ive found is cutting it with a razor blade and then coming right behind it with 1000 grit on a paint stick... i promise it comes out the best. also heard of using glazing putty over the run but it takes a loooooong time wet sanding that out lol. great work buddy!
the problem is that you guys use soft block to sand.... try one block of plastic or wood or something realy hard and 100% flat, start with 800 , 1000 ,1500. 2000. it will desapear.
sorry i dont speak inglinsh . im trying to explaim.
800 sand it 80% , 1000 sand it 90% , 1500 sand it 100% and 2000 just to finishing.
@@edmarflash I have a plastic block thats a half inch thick. I dont use razors if the clear is still slightly soft it will grab and a chunk will come off. So I use my plastic block with 600 wet and as soon as its flat work my way up to 2000.
@@marcsorensen1184 i will try do it like you said , to see with way is better.
Love the ring on your finger hitting that fresh paint lol.. I'm learning something though.
try surrounding the run with a finish body filler (green), then sand it down with 320, when you have nearly all the body filler and excess paint removed, switch to 600... once all that is back to base paint (or clear when using touch up), go over with 1200, then polish. the fine body filler keeps your sand paper off the original paint and clear while you are taking down the high spots of the touch up paint or paint run. good luck, and keep it shiny
I used to use spot putty the same way. So you can level the run and spot putty down at the same time. I dont know how anyone can polish anything finer than 2000 though. I nib with 1500 then trizact always. Make polishing 10x faster
Guys at my old shop used to use a small piece of panel beaters body panel file and run it over the top of the run , it would only take the run out and not touch the other paint work. Hope it’s a better technique 👍🏻
I missed up a porch 11 with over Sprary clear coat on the headlights I hop it will work for me when I try it tomorrow
Oh wow, this makes so much more sense than what I was going to do. Thank you!
skim with body filler and block sand it out. Start with 240 grit, 500,800,1000 and finish with 2000 then buff.
One hanger not bad at all. That clear coat looks professional or even artificial, looks like no orange peel at all. I used to stay in the booth an extra 20 minutes armed with paper towel after the last coat waiting for the hanger monsters to come out.
Again great 👍🏽 professional job on the el Camino!
Light Fine metalics are hard to spray glossy, without motling or metallic sag in single stage, I now always spray them in two stage, lighter color coats don't mottle or sag as easy, then gloss it up with clear coat, I avoid runs by walking the full length, don't overlap at the edges 😎 other than the run looks nice and straight.
I think the only people spraying single stage metallics is Maaco. Lol
I will razor blade the tops of the runs down and then use a piece of wood as a block. any durablock will form to the run and you'll have troubles getting it flat. just my personal experience. I enjoy your videos!
+Ryan Manzella thanks, I try to get the run completely flat before I do any sanding, But I do have a piece of aluminum square stock that I use for a block, because you are completely right abut the dureblocks.
that V was perfect, i would have added an 8 and called it a day, lol
dirtswimmer btw i forgot to mention that the bondimino looks awesome, as you said its meant to be driven and i hope it does what it was meant to do, put smiles for miles
can only see 1 thing WRONG with that el camino ..
.
its not in my garage
RING!! Fresh paint and you've got a ring on.
Thank you for sharing that fix tip, If I get my car to look a fraction as good as that I'll be very happy
Nice work man👍🏽
The perfect way to take care of that type of runs is applying putty and block it, try it you will love it!
What a run lol, I hate that
wen a painter leaves his name..i left mines a few times as well ..get da grinder for dat ..lol..i hate wen dat happens
The Gunman ayy gunman
The Gunman
I love the icing glaze method.
I love the icing glaze method !!
What the hell?
Put small amount of filler over and sand till the run is gone. The filler will protect the rest and you only sand the run. This only works for run in clear coat.
Any way to fix it if the run consists of a base coat as well?
I can’t tell , I have a small run on the lower corner of the back bumper. Bought the car like that , I was planning to wet sand the high points with 1000 grit.
Thanks
Looks similar to the run i got in the passenger door, thanks for the tip on how to deal with it. I couldn't see the run after you sanded it, so it passes the 3 feet away rule lol. Looks good all around!
It turned out nice for what it is, but I think the vette looks somewhat better, though! Don't ya think?
now l want to try that on raw bondo,
i'm facing the same problem on my gundam figure because the coat was too thick.and i'm still noob.thank you for sharing this vid.i'll try it.
Man for what you did, compared to my rush jobs; your stuff looks pretty show room from what I can see!
Hi, my name is Rafael, Brazil. My brother had an olds cutlas coupe 71, the same color as his car. This color is beautiful. But with lots of chrome
yea screw hand color sanding. Just use the Abralon foam backed after you da color sand finish with 4000 buff it and no tracers.
Mike F your job nice and my neme is akhlak ansari my wark penting i ful cantri job i 12 cllas riding and i indian my mobael nambar 7309066561 i your cantri warking. my selri supr i am come you i maesej
Great job sir ..I have tons of runs on the passenger side of my truck door ..Unfortunately it’s the first coat of clear ,,my question is can I sand the runs down till it’s smooth then spray the second coat over ?
Looks good looks like it came out pretty straight .
Looks exactly like some shit in a 1 stage rustoleum PJ I did earlier this evening; thank GOD I've got razor blades handy. Thanks for the vid and info...
She’s a real beauty! Well done all. 🖖
Aah my teeth is loving this noise.. Just like running a chalk on the board.... Nice....
Pleased to see no build up on the door edge? Did you sack the sprayer for doing that?
The best way to do that is to put a light coat of putty and sand it and you get a even surface at the end.
Bondomino is looking really nice.
It would be cool to have a a paiti all over with runs and loops
ugh, I had to mute the video. That was brutal on the ears, but ive tried this a few times and not very successful at it. I usually tape around the runs or put a skim coat of spot putty around the runs so i can block with 600, then refine all the way to 3000. Polishes right up
Looks pretty good to me. I tried that razor blade method before. It didn't come out as nice as yours. It still needs some work.
use some slow reducer your pearls .... and step it back on every coat your pearl to lay down it won't model or bloch.... give that a try I think you'll like it
put tape around the edges of the razor blade each side leaving nuff space for run in the middle then you dont got to worry about scraching away from run
finish lookin pretty good
nice work with the razor blade,el camino looks realy nice
If i can give you a tips! Try to do a roll of tape on both edges so the corner doesn't go throught paint.. It's safer!
Good tip but I was looking for a running a paint job that's clear coat good video
That's a BLOODY nice car
Hard to make those runs disappear when they are real tall. Sometimes you get em' out and sometimes you don't. Much easier to hide when they're small, lol
Instead off bending the blade I use masking tape on both edges I find it much easier make a U with masking tape around the blade easier to hold the blade also if run really bad I use putty let it get hard start with 400 wet then 800 then 1000 then 1500
That's called a "flow indicator"
Overlap body filler, then use 300 with water, then work your way up to 3000 to finish then buff and wax. Nice Camino. Great job with the razor.
Can you give me a specific filler to use for this?
The filler is a base so you went burn through the paint. You'll end up removing the rest of the filler as you start wet sanding. I really don't think it matter but maybe one that has a polymer base, I believe. There's a few videos on TH-cam how to do this. Each person's technique is a little different.
Yeah, was thinking a 3m or Maguire's but have never used a thin filler so I'm just guessing they make one. Looks fairly simple though.
THATS what I call a run.......... Nice Fix, Looks like you know what you're doing..... heh heh
Love Caminos!
Good Job
I'm gonna try this on a scale model I've used automotive laqure on only thing is I need a small blade
Good stuff sir! What happened to Jim and Angel....not a peep? Even the tunes were off. You must be cracking the whip at the SYF Garage. Thanks for the update Matt.
WOW... That scared me to death watching that. LOL.. I have been doing body work and paint for over 30 years now and have never seen anyone take a razor blade to a car like that!! Give me a piece of sand paper and a block, I promise I won't ruin a paint job with that!!!! But it does look nice now!!
+OHIOFIGHTFAN lol Defiantly have to know how to use it to not screw it up. Most painters I know use the razor blade method. Generally I prefer not to get them in the first place. But for some reason when i'm doing something at home like this I get in a hurry and like to create problems lol.
I take my wedding ring off to avoid damaging the clear
After the blade use a flat stick with sand paper , no soft pad , and it will disappear
This is why im starting to think i could do a paintjob at home... spray paint it myself, if there are any imperfections such as orange peel and small particles wetsand it and polish it, if there are any runs do it the way you did it
how can you make a run like this ?
Man, it looks good. I cant see where it was
Nice work . . . Dad should be happy . . . car looks very good ;) Rog
Thats a nasty one if I don't say so myself, I've done one like that on black came out pretty good
Looks like it turned out quite well. As for the runs, meh it's not a show car trailer queen so don't beat yourself up on it. There's always a point you have to just say 'That's good enough' it's hard to do it at times but you got to know when to say enough is enough!!
if u didn't use the blade technique then u can 600 it out wet then finish with 2000k right?
You can use the green scuff paper (about 600grit). Then use 1500, then 2000 (maybe also 2500 or 3000). Should be smooth to the touch. You might have to retouch with base or clear depending on what you are doin
Man this car looks so good now sweet job. Your opinion did you like that urekem paint? I was looking at purchasing the sunset orange pearl Base/clear for my 71 C10 when I am ready. It is so much cheaper then buying paint here at the local shops, So cheap that it's kind of scary lol
chevvyC10 I was impressed.. I hear that some colors cover better than others, but this color covered well and worked great. I'd use it again.
Shut Yer Face Garage alright cool man. Did you use there sealer? or something else
chevvyC10 Nah I used some sherwin williams sealer I already had. But i'd guess theirs would work fine.
I used their green pearl and white sealer, I'm happy
Cool! What grit of sand paper should I use?
hours and elbows paid off.
WHY is the hood of that 57 being used as a table?? Come on...
It was a pretty decent table. Nice size. Its someone Else's table now.. lol
What was the process ??
1 week 🤔,put a light COAT of bondo,over run,water sand with 800 until bondo gone,,,run gone👍
Why did you use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper ?
I hope you can get by without repainting but it looks good on camera
Gotta have THE PAINTERS EYE, to catch stuff that a lotta folks don't when looking at a paint job; my neighbor liked what I did on my car. I responded well I got a few sags to wet sand when it DRIES... They were like Oh? Then there's the persistent imperfections even after all the bondo and body work; well if you are doing a rush job in an apt complex parking lot, hoping no one bitches and complains to the mangmnt, you are bound to get a "perfect fuck up every time." LOL!!!
Matt I think it looks great your hard on your self . A top notch painter like you will never be happy with you work . Wish I had half your skills .
what 3M compound did you use to polish clear coat?
do you use any ventilation in your garage? is this a home business? I would like to open one at home here in canada!
Ouch dude, you could have use a 1,000 grid wet sand it down, then follow up by a 1500 grid and buff it out.
starkness65 would 600 wet work too?
Looks great what color is that
Artesian turquoise. A factory color.
I've noticed that some clears every clear is different when they run some clears are harder to get out than others I like to knock my clear down with about 800 Grit and 1000 depending on the type of thousand grit sandpaper it is cuz that makes a difference also 800 knocks it down a lot quicker I'll go over it with a thousand either wet da and I'll go over it with 2,000 by hand and mm on a 6-inch d a foam pad pen 3000 and sometimes four and five thousand I guess it just depends but I've not learned that some clears you can go all the way down with 600 grit like if it's a 2K High build euroclear whoever the brand is if it's really thick you can go down with 600 grit and cut and polish it and you don't see the scratches now some of these cheaper clears that claim to be good clear you can still see the scratch marks in it like I'm using Matrix 42 right now I just knocked down with 800 the way up to 3,000 and I'm using an 800 grit and finer compound Presta which is pretty good but I find to seem that even with a wool pad I used to pads one rule with my heavy cut I get it to where I see no scratches then my Waffle pad and a quick-release 3M and then I use HD poly hand glaze and then it looks like glass at least that's what I'm used to use in three compounds two pads
he is slanting the razor blade away from scrape direction, not towards
I use this method when i get little runs. Never got a dam break run before lol. . Nice elco. Thats all i drive
That work ,but it's so old school.
but it does look friggin AWESOME finished. nice job!
Ready for the next one... SHIP IT!
so you sign your work. Then erase it! I always leave mine...
My God dude! Post a warning before that "fingernail to the chalkboard" sound right off the bat lol. I couldn't get the volume down fast enuff lol Good job!
Looks good 👍
How long after you applied the clear coat is possible to repair the runs??
without baking the runs, the longer you can wait the better. You will be able to tell if the clear is still to soft when you start sanding or scraping it. I'd wait at least 2-3 days before trying.
I painted a elcamino just like that same color once
What color is that ? Gotta a 40 coupe i would like to spray the same
how long do you have to wait till you start removing runs?
Sneaky TX Venom depends on on the product, if your baking it or air dry, if air dry I say few days to make sure it not soft and cured, if it’s baked then you can polish it on same day but I advise leave it till next morning as it still can be soft the clear coat
can I use this method on head light ?