This is a tutorial on how to replace your jammed ptfe tube. More tutorials about the Prusa Mk Series are going to follow! Leave a like or a sub if you liked the Tutorial!
This is the best video I've found so far..Thanks! However, a few things made it harder to use. If you're going to do more (please do!), please speed through the less important things (removing screws) but do normal speed for everything else. 2:35 - Hand is blocking. It can mostly be assumed what to do, but moving the camera would have been much better. 3:12 - Again, for this critical part it was mostly blocked. Mine seemed more difficult to remove, so seeing how you loosened it would have helped a lot. 3:55 - My heatbreak unscrewed from the heat-block instead of from the heatsink, like Daniel Adams mentioned. A segment on what to do if this happens would have been helpful. 5:30 and on - This may not be important to you, but seeing how you did put it back together at normal speed would have been useful to us. You went through it so fast that we don't know if we missed important stuff, like what is happening at 5:37? We can't even pause it because speeding it up makes it blurry. And you show us something near 5:46, but I can't tell if it's important or not. Please do more, because your narrative is useful, and it is the current shipping parts, which even the Prusa video is not. Thanks!
Thank you very much for the video. I saw other videos but the detail of placing the tube underneath and a few threads before twisting to adjust the lock, is what I needed. Muchas Muchas Gracias.. por el Vídeo. Vi otros vídeos pero el detalle de colocar el tubo por debajo y a unos hilos antes de enroscar ajustar la traba, es lo que necesitaba.
Had a piece a pice of PLA break right at the top of the ptfe tube in the heatsink.....wish I had found your vid sooner......I apparently took WAY TO MUCH apart but I got it put back together, shocker, and it works fine. For anyone interested it made that 'clicking' sound usually associated with the bearing drive put becoming off set.....if yours does the clicking thing and it isn't the pin check to see if the ptfe tube is obstructed...….
I'd recommend moving your printer further away from the wall. The cable attachment to the heat bed is the one thing on my MK2 that has failed. The extra pressure of the cable on the wall will only accelerate this failure mode.
What you're doing at about 5:20 seems quite important to prevent oozing, however I have watched that section a number of times, and can't understand what you're saying. Do you have a transcript? Also at one point you remove the thermistor and talk about a "sensible cover", I didn't understand that part either. Don't want to criticize what is not your native language, but it's really hard to understand.
I bought an Prusa MK3 for my son for christmas, after 1 print, we the PLA is stuck, we can’t push or remove it. Are you serious, it is necessary to have mechanical skills for a 3D printer? I can’t do that job and I don’t want stuck material keeping us from printing - what can I do?
I cut the tubing to around the same length that you have it, but for the life of me the Heatsink won't actually fit back inside because the tubing doesn't want to fit in or it's extremly tight. I can see at 5:34 your tube is sticking out slightly but when I try to insert the tubing, or even the original tubing that was clogged, the fit is so tight it just won't go in except for a tiny bit, I can't get it any past halfway to the other side.
Thanks for the video - but when I remove the screws just like you do in step 4 "dismantle the extruder fan" I can not remove the piece, it seems very much still connected on the right side - is it possible my MK3 is different than yours?
You're unscrewing the heater block from the body and pulling out all the inner part of the body. That's not possible with the extruder that comes with the MK3 since you can only easily unscrew the block from the bottom thread. In the video it seems that your heater block is somehow tight and you can use force to unscrew the block plus the inner part of the body. I can only unscrew the heater block from the bottom thread. So either you have a different extruder or I'm doing something wrong but it's not clear in the video how to get it out. I can easily pull out the PTFE tube from the top though, just pushing down the secure lock and pulling it out.
I use capricorn tubing which is a far better quality ptfe tube that can handle higher temperatures.. look it up in your browser and purchase from the manufacturer (their are unfortunately knockoffs that are no improvement at all). When i have assembled my hotend i lubricate the inside with ptfe spray which you can purchase from a hardware store (make sure it is a ptfe lubricant and not a normal wd40 etc spray). Cover your heat bed and spray it down the tube (i leave it for 24 hours to dry but you can use it after 15 to 20 minutes) this will put a coating of ptfe on the hotend inner aswell.. i use this method on all my printers and sware by it.. hope that helps
Hi The question is, why did it stick in the first place? It happens to me two times now, and I have only been using the printer for 14 days! I have a Prusa i3 MK2 also and never had this problem Björn Sweden
Hey there! It can have many Problems! As said in the tutorial the dust that can get stuck to your filament because of an "dirty" workplace like a garage or a workshop with sawmills for example jams your tube and - because of the cooling fan on the side- cant be burned and transported out of your extruder. Another problem is the qualtiy of the filament. Many cheap filaments have a heavily varying diameter or have little bubbles of air in it. This could - in connection with a high humidity your filament is exposed for a longer time - lead to jams aswell. You can countermeasure this with building an enclosure for your printer and your filament in combination with silica gel. This helps keeping your stored filament dry and free of dust and particles. I hope i could help you with your problem! Have a nice day!
MrNizzehulth, if you go to the PRUSA fourms and look for the "Extruder starts clicking and not feeding right about an hour or 2 in" thread, you'll see on the second page this entry. I've been having these bulbs forming on my filament during every removal. Wed May 30, 2018 6:26 pm Now i cannot yet confirm it but while talking to a coworker who has a lot of knowledge about 3d printers we might have a part of the answer to the problem. When the filament is pulled out we often notice that there is a blob of filament at the bottom that is larger than the inner diameter of the PTFE tube. What i noticed when i took the hotend apart is that the PTFE tube can be moved up and down a few millimeters. This i due to the fact that the embedded bowden coppler must be moved up to keep the PTFE in place but when it slides a little down the PTFE tube is not ket in place. So when the PTFE tube is a little bit to high then it will not be all the way down into the heatbreak. Then you have a little gap between the heatbreak and the PTFE tube. This would explain the filament blob which is ussualy larger the 2mm which is the inner diameter of the PTFE tube and if i read right the heatbreak is 1.9mm in diameter. So the only place where the blob can be larger then 2 mm is where the PTFE tube not all the way fits, or is pushed down into the Heatbreak. I have, as allrady written, ordered a new heatbreak so i will look into that the tube is all the way down. My reseller sells a small collet to push onto the Bowden coppler and so keeps the coppler up and the PTFE in place. So i guess its a matter of pushing the tube all the way into the heatbreak then pull then coppler up and set it with the collet. This could well do the trick. I will off course let you all know. I hope my English was enough to explain this and that you peeps know what i mean. Greetz Ronald. *** I think Ronald has got a good point. ***
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This is the best video I've found so far..Thanks!
However, a few things made it harder to use. If you're going to do more (please do!), please speed through the less important things (removing screws) but do normal speed for everything else.
2:35 - Hand is blocking. It can mostly be assumed what to do, but moving the camera would have been much better.
3:12 - Again, for this critical part it was mostly blocked. Mine seemed more difficult to remove, so seeing how you loosened it would have helped a lot.
3:55 - My heatbreak unscrewed from the heat-block instead of from the heatsink, like Daniel Adams mentioned. A segment on what to do if this happens would have been helpful.
5:30 and on - This may not be important to you, but seeing how you did put it back together at normal speed would have been useful to us. You went through it so fast that we don't know if we missed important stuff, like what is happening at 5:37? We can't even pause it because speeding it up makes it blurry. And you show us something near 5:46, but I can't tell if it's important or not.
Please do more, because your narrative is useful, and it is the current shipping parts, which even the Prusa video is not.
Thanks!
Hello could you please make some more videos, where you show the steps more in detail. Maybe different camera angles? Sankering!
Thank you very much for the video. I saw other videos but the detail of placing the tube underneath and a few threads before twisting to adjust the lock, is what I needed. Muchas Muchas Gracias.. por el Vídeo. Vi otros vídeos pero el detalle de colocar el tubo por debajo y a unos hilos antes de enroscar ajustar la traba, es lo que necesitaba.
Had a piece a pice of PLA break right at the top of the ptfe tube in the heatsink.....wish I had found your vid sooner......I apparently took WAY TO MUCH apart but I got it put back together, shocker, and it works fine. For anyone interested it made that 'clicking' sound usually associated with the bearing drive put becoming off set.....if yours does the clicking thing and it isn't the pin check to see if the ptfe tube is obstructed...….
Hy, thank you for the detailed explanations. It helped a lot.
Thank you
I'd recommend moving your printer further away from the wall. The cable attachment to the heat bed is the one thing on my MK2 that has failed. The extra pressure of the cable on the wall will only accelerate this failure mode.
Nice video to replace your Jammed PTFE Tube
Very helpful!!! Thanks
many thanks for the comprehensive clear to follow video,,,,,,, keep up the good work
What you're doing at about 5:20 seems quite important to prevent oozing, however I have watched that section a number of times, and can't understand what you're saying. Do you have a transcript? Also at one point you remove the thermistor and talk about a "sensible cover", I didn't understand that part either. Don't want to criticize what is not your native language, but it's really hard to understand.
Try using the TH-cam Closed Captioning. It's little "CC button on the bottom right of the video window.
At 5:20 he says "the part of the heatsink without thread should now be leveled to the lower edge of the heatsink".
@@WBSDubai But that doesn't make no sense!
where did you buy the PTFE ?
I request a video showing this onthe MK3s. The extruder heat sink looks different, and I cant get the tube out. Now the tube is probably damaged
Thanks for the video, do you have a model of that wrench used in the video. i`d like to have it :) thank you.
I bought an Prusa MK3 for my son for christmas, after 1 print, we the PLA is stuck, we can’t push or remove it. Are you serious, it is necessary to have mechanical skills for a 3D printer? I can’t do that job and I don’t want stuck material keeping us from printing - what can I do?
Does it also work on the i3mk3s
I cut the tubing to around the same length that you have it, but for the life of me the Heatsink won't actually fit back inside because the tubing doesn't want to fit in or it's extremly tight. I can see at 5:34 your tube is sticking out slightly but when I try to insert the tubing, or even the original tubing that was clogged, the fit is so tight it just won't go in except for a tiny bit, I can't get it any past halfway to the other side.
Thanks for the video - but when I remove the screws just like you do in step 4 "dismantle the extruder fan" I can not remove the piece, it seems very much still connected on the right side - is it possible my MK3 is different than yours?
Never mind - apparently the hot end had melted the plastic a little and it was very well stuck to the metal after it had cooled.
Where did you get that wrench?
Worth noting preheat temp should be much higher than usual, 270C worked best for me. At PLA temps you may damage your hotend.
cant get the jammed ptfe tube out of the hotend. How is that done???
How do you unscrew the PTFE part from the body? The only thing that unscrews easily is the heater block but not the inner part of the body.
Usually the Tube is Not screwed in anywhere...
You're unscrewing the heater block from the body and pulling out all the inner part of the body. That's not possible with the extruder that comes with the MK3 since you can only easily unscrew the block from the bottom thread. In the video it seems that your heater block is somehow tight and you can use force to unscrew the block plus the inner part of the body. I can only unscrew the heater block from the bottom thread. So either you have a different extruder or I'm doing something wrong but it's not clear in the video how to get it out. I can easily pull out the PTFE tube from the top though, just pushing down the secure lock and pulling it out.
the tube is not screwed in just push in the top plastic tip you can pull out ... you not really need open all that to replace PTFE tube... lol
what tube did you guys use? Any link? Thanks in advance
we used an regular ptfe tube. should be availabe in every print store or even amazon
I use capricorn tubing which is a far better quality ptfe tube that can handle higher temperatures.. look it up in your browser and purchase from the manufacturer (their are unfortunately knockoffs that are no improvement at all). When i have assembled my hotend i lubricate the inside with ptfe spray which you can purchase from a hardware store (make sure it is a ptfe lubricant and not a normal wd40 etc spray). Cover your heat bed and spray it down the tube (i leave it for 24 hours to dry but you can use it after 15 to 20 minutes) this will put a coating of ptfe on the hotend inner aswell.. i use this method on all my printers and sware by it.. hope that helps
Thank you for help, this is absolut ass to work with.
hello, thanks for the tutorial, but I went back to clog the tivo and go twice and I do not know why it happens again and with the same inpresion :(
Great video but at times, I wished you moved your hand out of the way at critical points.
how long is it uploaded? Thank you :D
Hey there! There is no time limit of the video. Have fun watching it!
Hi
The question is, why did it stick in the first place? It happens to me two times now, and I have only been using the printer for 14 days! I have a Prusa i3 MK2 also and never had this problem
Björn
Sweden
Hey there! It can have many Problems! As said in the tutorial the dust that can get stuck to your filament because of an "dirty" workplace like a garage or a workshop with sawmills for example jams your tube and - because of the cooling fan on the side- cant be burned and transported out of your extruder.
Another problem is the qualtiy of the filament. Many cheap filaments have a heavily varying diameter or have little bubbles of air in it. This could - in connection with a high humidity your filament is exposed for a longer time - lead to jams aswell.
You can countermeasure this with building an enclosure for your printer and your filament in combination with silica gel. This helps keeping your stored filament dry and free of dust and particles.
I hope i could help you with your problem! Have a nice day!
MrNizzehulth, if you go to the PRUSA fourms and look for the "Extruder starts clicking and not feeding right about an hour or 2 in" thread, you'll see on the second page this entry. I've been having these bulbs forming on my filament during every removal.
Wed May 30, 2018 6:26 pm
Now i cannot yet confirm it but while talking to a coworker who has a lot of knowledge about 3d printers we might have a part of the answer to the problem.
When the filament is pulled out we often notice that there is a blob of filament at the bottom that is larger than the inner diameter of the PTFE tube.
What i noticed when i took the hotend apart is that the PTFE tube can be moved up and down a few millimeters. This i due to the fact that the embedded bowden coppler must be moved up to keep the PTFE in place but when it slides a little down the PTFE tube is not ket in place. So when the PTFE tube is a little bit to high then it will not be all the way down into the heatbreak. Then you have a little gap between the heatbreak and the PTFE tube.
This would explain the filament blob which is ussualy larger the 2mm which is the inner diameter of the PTFE tube and if i read right the heatbreak is 1.9mm in diameter. So the only place where the blob can be larger then 2 mm is where the PTFE tube not all the way fits, or is pushed down into the Heatbreak.
I have, as allrady written, ordered a new heatbreak so i will look into that the tube is all the way down. My reseller sells a small collet to push onto the Bowden coppler and so keeps the coppler up and the PTFE in place. So i guess its a matter of pushing the tube all the way into the heatbreak then pull then coppler up and set it with the collet. This could well do the trick. I will off course let you all know.
I hope my English was enough to explain this and that you peeps know what i mean.
Greetz Ronald.
*** I think Ronald has got a good point. ***
I think you are absolutely right! Thanks!
my frustration is peaking at this horrible machine so I'm grumpy, but it would be a lot better without the bloody annoying noise/muzak
Why drill out tube?
So the filament can more easily insert into the tube
the tutorial was quite informative but the music is not good, drop it. I'd rather hear you work.
wow, it´s terrible to remove, upgrade needed badly