Since it seems to be causing some confusion, I wanted to let everybody know that the connection from the meter is not connected to the computer side even though it looks like it in the video. It IS connected to the sensor side. There is a connector above the shock mount where the computer connects to the sensor. That is where I tapped into it; I just didn't want to take it all the way out. Rest assured, the meter is connected to the sensor side.
I had this issue with my 2003 Cadillac escalade esv. I changed the Abs sensor but the problem was not solved. I watched your video then followed the instructions with regards to removing the spacer and now my problem is solved. Today you saved me a lot of time and Money. THANK YOU.
This fixed my 'traction active' problem I've had for months and the ABS activation while braking and slow speed problem that just recently started happening on m 2004 5.3L Chevy Tahoe 1500. I can't believe it! I was going to bring it in and it would have cost hundreds of dollars! I lucky guessed the bad side so I didn't have to do this twice! Thank you!
Hello. We are from Aust., owning a Holden suburban (1998). We recently found we could not put our veh into 4wd, assuming something major must have failed, actuator encoder etc. An ABS light was also lit up on our dash, which (stupid of us I know) we thought was yet another separate issue. After going through a lengthy process of elimination, with use of workshop manuals, ABS was mentioned as a cause for not getting 4wd. We you tubed this issue, and wella, your post came up. We really must applaud you Matt on your well made video clip . We were also able to put a scan tool on our truck yest. and it was found our fault was with a wheel speed sensor. Chap who owned scan said that if there is an ABS problem like this, this will stop veh from going into 4wd. Thanks to your very clear and detailed post, we put our volt meter on, (getting one good read on one sensor with req'd voltage, and none on the other, indicating the left was faulty). We are still learning, and whilst the manuals clearly serve a purpose, nothing beats a well made clip, as the one you have kindly made. I have referred your clip to others who own this family range of Chevys, because I think it is that good. Cheers!
Matt, This was exactly what was wrong with my church friends '05 silverado. Driver side front. it was reading .187V at the best. I had to grind on this surface past the point of getting to good metal. When I would screw the sensor back in, the screw side would lift the sensor side giving me a lower voltage. I finally just got a Dremel and went down a micron. He had been trying to fix this for 1.5 years! Your video made me look good!!!😉
Thank you.just last night I got the diagnosis on the car and then I had to learn how to change this .thank you for taking your time and thinking of other like myself.May God bless u.
I have a 02 Tahoe and its been doing the same thing I almost went over an embankment yesterday. I'm going to give this a try and pray it fixes my issue. Thanks for the video
To me, that was a very impressive video. You explained the very problem I'm having. Had my Silverado in the shop 3 days and they wanted to replace the ecbm or ebcm and pump for around 1500 and that would not have solved my issues and I'd have been out 1500. When I'm slowing down, my brake pedal gets hard and truck won't stop easily. I've had hub issues in the past 5 years on and off. You sir are a mechanic, not a parts changer. That's special. Thank you for making the video.
You don't need abs to stop.. just disconnect the wore to the sensor in the wheel well there and the problem will go away discount both fronts or where ever your sensors are and the car will stop fine no problems
And replace your hubs when they are wornout..that way u don't need to mess with all that..there's no point in doing all that when you can disconnect them and replace the hubs when the hubs are worn out..saves alot of time lol
Had to come back days later just to let you know, you were spot on. I started with my driver side where the noise seemed to be coming from. I tested the connection for a reading and got nothing. I chose to change the hub assembly anyway because I had purchased two just in case and I didn't like the roar I heard, I put on the new one and hooked up the meter and got fantastic numbers. When I got to the passenger side, I got good numbers so I get to return one to the parts house for a refund. Road test was great. Thank You again for sharing you fabulous video.
K Grabe I agree that too many videos have bad language. I want my boys to learn about fixing cars but many I can't let them watch due to all the cussing and bad innuendos. This is an awesome video on many fronts!!!
I want to say thank you for this video. I have been wracking my brain for months on how to test the new cables I got in that did not seem to change the error code. With a little elbow grease I cleaned the mating surface of the wheel housing to accept the sensor in a more flush manner and it seems that the error code (once cleared) is remaining off. Thank you so much!
I didn't necessarily go through all your tests, but considering it's just a magnet that had collected small slivers of metal and only 2 wires I just cleaned both sides and removed the spacers (one spaces was stuck to the rust anyway) on my 95 Bravada. It works perfectly. Thanks for the info it helped point me in the right direction.
A few tips: I did not need alligator clips to use my multimeter...there are two holes within the cable connector that you can lightly "jam" the pointy ends of the multimeter into. The rotor and caliper can be removed together without separating them...it just takes some maneuvering around the lugs but it will slide around them...just have a few blocks of wood to set the whole mass onto off to the side so you don't mess up the brake line (obviously you don't want to remove the brake line banjo bolt from the caliper unless you want to bleed your brakes afterward). The bolts on the caliper take a 13/16 socket...both of mine needed a breaker bar. To clean the base that the sensor sits on, I used a hand drill with a large grinding cone...very quick. As mentioned in the video, you'll need a 5mm Allen wrench to remove the bolt holding the senor...it might be a good idea to replace that bolt since mine were very rusty and barely came out...I ended up using a hammer to tap the Allen wrench into the top of the bolt after a nice PB blaster soaking around that bolt and the rest of the sensor. It took me about 2.5 hours to repair both front sensors on my 2005 Silverado 2500HD. Thank you Matt Waggoner for the video!
Thanks guys I allready switched sensors, but did not understand how to test sensors so now i can trouble shoot which one is not working. thanks for explaning and showing the process...
Thank you for a great video. I replaced the front sensors and received an ABS CO226 fault code (LF sensor). I measured just 35 mV while coil resistance was fine at 1000 ohm. I cleaned the surface as you indicated and signal improved to 300 mV. No more ABS fault codes and ABS does no longer engage at near stop. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video. I cleaned my bearing blocks where the ABS sensor mounts and that fixed my ABS problem. Initially my Traction Active warning and ABS problems were present. Now both are corrected.
I just replaced both of my hub assembly's on my 05'. Now the right front is throwing C0040. Looks like I know what I'll be doing tomorrow. Thanks for the video, really helped me see what everybody meant by shorten the distance.
Great vid Matt. Your descriptive and the quality videography did the trick in explaining this project, made the job much easier. I have to say your rust issue pales to mine in that I live in Buffalo and with the road salt during the winter, any project that comes up working on the underside of a vehicle can triple the job time just due to the rust. Thanks for your help.
+Matt Waggoner No, that's frost- a light dusting is over 3 feet. Great video! I'm having this issue with my Suburban and after 3 mechanics had diagnosed everything from bad rotors (to be fair, they were pretty wrecked), to bad pads, to needing an alignment, this surely is the fix!
When I worked as a heavy truck mechanic on air brakes I used to set the ABS sensor at the thickness of a razor blade. But with car ABS you’re gonna have to go by feel on the tone ring in the wheel, if you’re wheel bearing is shaky you may or may not get good ABS tone
Thank you for the great video! I originally installed both sensors and still had low speed abs engagement. Super frustrating. Metered out like you showed and had no reading. Used Emory cloth to scrub rust build up and got readings back on meter. Works great now. Nice work buddy, thanks for sharing.
Iv a problem created by my own indifference to grinding sound from brakes plus the ABS lights remained on. . I changed both pads and dodgy calipers.Still no brakes so Ive changed Master cylinder. I never checked these sensors as this may be the problem. Great presentation on locating and checking voltage etc in this video . Thank you
Thanks for the great video. I'm really glad you mentioned the failing bearing issue as I believe that is what's happening to me so I'm going to pursue that now.
Very great video, easy to understand, I am in northern pakistan ,here auto electronic facilities r very costly for a common car 🚗 owner. By the help of this video I& my machanic r able to rectify my abs sensor problem . Thanks
Great video and well done. I have a 2009 Silverado 4x4 and I keep getting ABS light comes on and the service stabletrak keeps flashing, then it stops and is fine for a couple of days then here we go again. I have been reading where the dealers change the steering wheel sensor, battery cables and brake light switch to changing the throttle body, Your video is the only one that makes sence, Thanks...........
Thanks so much, I had an intermittent brake warning after installing a new sensor. Changed from a .030" shim to a .010" shim. Reading jumped up from virtually nothing to 1.8 and no more warning light. Note to all, with no shim I could feed the sensor rubbing so I cut a .010" plastic shim and seems all good.
Very, thorough individual. I really appreciate your knowledge and time sharing this video. I have a 2005 Hummer H2 and the ABS & Traction Control lights are on. But, I find it too coincidental that there was absolutely jack squat wrong with my vehicle until a jank-leg ass stereo "installer" out of Tyler,Texas pulled my entire dashboard loose while running down an issue with a remote wire on the back of my stereo.
update; I was not getting good voltage from either sensor after removing and sanding where it mounts so I finally took a small file to surface and filed it to a nice smooth finish. now I just barely spin hub and get good voltage and no longer having abs problem...thanks again guys...
Thanks for posting. I think you read the voltage wrong. Had the decimal in wrong place. 350millivolts .350 of a volt or 35 micro volts. You had more like 2000millivolts or 2 volts if I have understood correctly. Thanks a bunch anyway, this puts me on the right track. Austin is a great cameraman👌
Well explained,,,,nice job. And no fancy expensive tools. Don’t lose a finger spinning hub,,,use a pipe slightly bigger than stud bolt and spin it that way.
Thank you for the fix video! I have an '03 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L 4x4 that is doing the same thing. No ABS light, just annoying that the brakes let go when you hit about 5mph and also they push back when you quickly apply the brakes at any speed. Dealership said both sensors were bad and the only way to fix it is buy new HUBs. Going to try the cleaning method first.
Very well done and helpful. Educational on the testing part and the notes at the end were an added benefit. Have a problem with my 05 Chev Van and thought this could be cleaned by spraying break fluid down onto the sensor top. See now this is useless and the sensor is inside. It appears the corrosion issues could be addressed in manufacture but problem part of the planned obsolesanse. Thanks again for your efforts.
Thanks for this great video. This video helped me repair my low speed ABS activation problem with my Mercedes E300 brake system.Now that I know how this since the works, I can repair two other cars with similar problems. Thanks
Great video, Matt. Thank you for posting it. I did exactly as you've shown and it worked great. I did use some Never Seize on the hardware when I put it back together in case I have to take it apart again later
Nice video. Here is my story. I'm having a problem with my 2015 Nissan Altima. At about 8k miles the ABS lights came on after braking on a sandy and bumpy road with bad asphalt, but nothing major. I took the car to a dealer and they said that they ordered a "part" from Japan. Next time I came in, they did something but couldn't fix it. Third time i took the car in, they said that they got in touch with someone in Japan and fixed it. The light went off. I drove until I needed to use hard braking but the ABS did not engaged. I almost rear-ended a car in front on a wet rainy road.Took the car back. They replaced the ABS control unit. The next time I tested with the same result - ABS did not engage - the tires locked up and didn't spin. Never felt that ABS buz on a pedal. Back to a dealer - they check and can't find anything. No falls signals from the computer, and all is up to the specs. I took the car on the road and showed them that tires just doesn't spin in the hard braking. They took the car in, performed ABS actuators and sensor test and all tested fine. Called Nissan tech support and they advised to replace the ABS control unit, bleeding the system. Did that. Supposedly tested ok. All is under warranty. The car wheels still locking up and won't spin under the hard braking. Feels like a there is no ABS on the car. It dragging the locked tires on the road, especially easy to lock up in the rain. I have no desire to go back to this dealer. Any thoughts on this? Thanks.
I'm sorry for the late reply. I just saw your comment. unfortunately I really wouldn't know. if I had to take a guess, I would say it's probably the ABS controller.
i have a 2001 silverado 2500hd thank your for this video im now have my weekend project to solve this problem i did all my braks and rotors and now i know the problem
awesome man! thanks for the video, now the process should be much easier for me now that i saw you do it,i have a 2006 yukon and the abs sensor going out makes the traction control go crazy so im very happy the fix is minimally evasive...
Like the move good advise about the relation to the sensor to the reluctance wheel. Only issue you are not testing a hall effect device but a induction coil pickup . Think Dynamo. A hall effect device is a semiconductor device used on later cars and need power to run it and has a square wave output
hey matt nice job. i have the exact same symptoms on my o5 gmc 1500. i found old receipt from prior owner. Timken bearings were installed on both sides so i feel those are ok. but at 3-5 mph abs will kick in and is deadly. replaced sensor but did not check with meter and i wish i would have. its super cold out here and i have to wait for warm up to dissemble and check it out.i think it will be the same conclusion as yours. for now i just unplugged the left front sensor and I’m waiting for warmer weather. THANKS for the clear instructions and tips.
Forgot to mention we are in the midwest, so of course the torx head was completely rusted and stripped right out (even after spraying with Free All), but switched to a hex head and worked just fine after tapping the bolt with a hammer and striking rod gently.
Having the same problem with my silverado i just picked up, strange problem and no abs light lol, will be very happy i dont have to spend $100 a side for a new sensor now! thanks!
Thanks for the video. I will be looking at the abs sensor on an 2001 aztek tomorrow. I am hoping for a quick easy / inexpensive fix as the abs has been replaced a few times by my sister and still seams to have the same issue.
its a very good video and it shows you clearly what junk the chevy factory is churning out ,if that was an airplane and carrying passengers lots of people would be dead.
Hi, nice video, but can't the rust also get into the hub via the sensor fixing bolt hole as well as the sensor hole? Or is the threaded bore a blind hole?
Matt, Thanks for making this video! About a week ago my ABS light starting coming on and off an dI get the pulsing in my brake pedal. The stored code says its the right front wheel thats causing the problem. Looks like I have my work cut out for me on Saturday! ;-) Thanks again!
Great video,I'm about to get into my 2005 1500 Silverado when I bought the truck the previous owner had just removed the fuse from the abs,brakes work fine but all my lights are on and it won't pass state inspection.So I have no idea what is going on.Hopefully it is what you just described.Wish me luck!
Thanks for this very informative video. My local mechanic was unable to resolve an intermittent failure of front wheel speed detection during slow speed braking on my 2001 Saturn even with replacement of the Hall Effect sensor. As you have explained, the accumulation of surface rust can lift the sensor away from the notched reluctor wheel. I strongly suspect that careful removal of the surface rust could have solved the problem. Is your repair shop anywhere near Chicago, where I live?
Thank you, Matt. My 2002 Sienna ABS light flashing, but when the car is rolling, the ABS light goes off. Are the sensors dirty? How are bout the rear sensors? Thank you so much, your video is very helpful.
The Ohms reading of just the sensor is between 900 and 1500. One read 978 and the other was 963. I probed them to make sure I got a reading and not the O.L.
Great video and info. I have a problem with my front n/s not breaking making the car pull to the right. I have been told my modulator is at fault and needs a new one at cost of £900 or so. I thought this could be the case but after seeing this video i am hopefull that it is not... I am going to try and fix it my self anyways. Thanks
Very well done Matt. I've got a 2007 Silverado and live in Indiana so rust on my truck looks about like yours. Quick question...my ABS and Brake light come on after starting engine and they stay on. Were you experiencing this or were they intermittent? I'm going to check the grounds first then the sensors. If not any of these, it may be the ABS Module. Thanks for the great video.
Tyler Beevers I had no lights on. The truck simply refused to stop when it got below about 5mph. The only time I had a light is when I pulled the ABS fuse.
Installed the replacement sensors with supplied shims and it created too wide a gap. Result abs kicking in at slow speeds. Removed all but one shim, checked depth of sensor into hub assbly to make sure there was no contact. Problem solved.
I got a problem with the speedometer stock all the way up is moving back down to 75 and back up there. Can that be something to do with the sensor also? Thanks
Will a continuity test show anything to determine condition of sensor? I will be checking my sensors this week and will be spinning wheels to check voltage.
Matt, my 06 GMC Denali ABS light comes on when I reach 35 mph then the speedometer shakes - ranging 5-10mpg. Do you think this is an abs sensor problem? Thanks - great video - easy to follow
Doug Abbott I have not heard of that before, and I am far from an expert, but it sounds like one of the computers is giving you fits. Here's what I would do: Pull the ABS fuse under the hood. This will disable the ABS but leave normal braking. Take it for a drive and see if the symptoms still exist. By disabling the ABS system, you should be removing all sensor input. If the symptoms are gone, then you know roughly where the problem is. From there, it could be one of the sensors, the ABS controller, chafed wires or even the ECM itself (although I think that is pretty unlikely). Does the light go out above 35MPH? Good Luck!!
Have a 2006 Up Lander, engine light comes on and off. Test showed a wheel speed sensor issue. Also my transmission doesn't always go into second gear right away. Are the two issues related?
gm tsb says min 350 mv ac turning 1 revolution per sec, and my 1500 has rear sensors, i had a 96 1 ton and i believe the rear sensor was on the drive shaft
Based on another video I saw (Midwest Garage), the "rear" sensor is on the transfer case/drive shaft or in that vicinity, not near a wheel. My 2000 Chev K2500 shows a C0221 code, "open circuit on the right wheel sensor", ABS light is on, I confirmed I have no ABS function (welcome back to fishtailing, tested on a gravel road!), but I don't have the other low speed, etc, symptoms referred to here. I definitely agree with using either a vacuum cleaner or compressed air on that hole, as stuffing a piece of paper towel down into it seems a little crazy, and it gets in the way of the sandpapering or wire brushing. I am a retired accountant, not a mechanic, so your interpretations may vary....
Since it seems to be causing some confusion, I wanted to let everybody know that the connection from the meter is not connected to the computer side even though it looks like it in the video. It IS connected to the sensor side.
There is a connector above the shock mount where the computer connects to the sensor. That is where I tapped into it; I just didn't want to take it all the way out.
Rest assured, the meter is connected to the sensor side.
+Matt Waggoner Thanks. I was wondering... :)
I was wondering that too.
Matt Waggoner r .
I was also confused thanks
Are you sure thats a hall effect sensor and not an analog type of sensor that puts out its own voltage instead of a square wave
I had this issue with my 2003 Cadillac escalade esv. I changed the Abs sensor but the problem was not solved. I watched your video then followed the instructions with regards to removing the spacer and now my problem is solved. Today you saved me a lot of time and Money. THANK YOU.
+Azad Palani
Awesome!
This fixed my 'traction active' problem I've had for months and the ABS activation while braking and slow speed problem that just recently started happening on m 2004 5.3L Chevy Tahoe 1500. I can't believe it! I was going to bring it in and it would have cost hundreds of dollars! I lucky guessed the bad side so I didn't have to do this twice! Thank you!
Hello. We are from Aust., owning a Holden suburban (1998). We recently found we could not put our veh into 4wd, assuming something major must have failed, actuator encoder etc. An ABS light was also lit up on our dash, which (stupid of us I know) we thought was yet another separate issue. After going through a lengthy process of elimination, with use of workshop manuals, ABS was mentioned as a cause for not getting 4wd. We you tubed this issue, and wella, your post came up. We really must applaud you Matt on your well made video clip . We were also able to put a scan tool on our truck yest. and it was found our fault was with a wheel speed sensor. Chap who owned scan said that if there is an ABS problem like this, this will stop veh from going into 4wd. Thanks to your very clear and detailed post, we put our volt meter on, (getting one good read on one sensor with req'd voltage, and none on the other, indicating the left was faulty). We are still learning, and whilst the manuals clearly serve a purpose, nothing beats a well made clip, as the one you have kindly made. I have referred your clip to others who own this family range of Chevys, because I think it is that good. Cheers!
Matt,
This was exactly what was wrong with my church friends '05 silverado. Driver side front. it was reading .187V at the best. I had to grind on this surface past the point of getting to good metal. When I would screw the sensor back in, the screw side would lift the sensor side giving me a lower voltage. I finally just got a Dremel and went down a micron. He had been trying to fix this for 1.5 years! Your video made me look good!!!😉
Thank you.just last night I got the diagnosis on the car and then I had to learn how to change this .thank you for taking your time and thinking of other like myself.May God bless u.
I have a 02 Tahoe and its been doing the same thing I almost went over an embankment yesterday. I'm going to give this a try and pray it fixes my issue. Thanks for the video
To me, that was a very impressive video. You explained the very problem I'm having. Had my Silverado in the shop 3 days and they wanted to replace the ecbm or ebcm and pump for around 1500 and that would not have solved my issues and I'd have been out 1500. When I'm slowing down, my brake pedal gets hard and truck won't stop easily. I've had hub issues in the past 5 years on and off. You sir are a mechanic, not a parts changer. That's special. Thank you for making the video.
Thank you! I love the sharing of information and I am glad it helped you!
Just disconnect the abs wire ..And your car will stop fine
You don't need abs to stop.. just disconnect the wore to the sensor in the wheel well there and the problem will go away discount both fronts or where ever your sensors are and the car will stop fine no problems
And replace your hubs when they are wornout..that way u don't need to mess with all that..there's no point in doing all that when you can disconnect them and replace the hubs when the hubs are worn out..saves alot of time lol
You’re right, great technician unlike those $100 an hr. Auto Zone pic & pull part swapping nuts.
Had to come back days later just to let you know, you were spot on. I started with my driver side where the noise seemed to be coming from. I tested the connection for a reading and got nothing. I chose to change the hub assembly anyway because I had purchased two just in case and I didn't like the roar I heard, I put on the new one and hooked up the meter and got fantastic numbers. When I got to the passenger side, I got good numbers so I get to return one to the parts house for a refund. Road test was great. Thank You again for sharing you fabulous video.
Nice Job Matt. It's refreshing to see/hear a video without a potty mouth describing their work. Good job Austin too!
K Grabe Thanks!
K Grabe
I agree that too many videos have bad language. I want my boys to learn about fixing cars but many I can't let them watch due to all the cussing and bad innuendos. This is an awesome video on many fronts!!!
Abso-fucking-lootly
I want to say thank you for this video. I have been wracking my brain for months on how to test the new cables I got in that did not seem to change the error code. With a little elbow grease I cleaned the mating surface of the wheel housing to accept the sensor in a more flush manner and it seems that the error code (once cleared) is remaining off. Thank you so much!
I didn't necessarily go through all your tests, but considering it's just a magnet that had collected small slivers of metal and only 2 wires I just cleaned both sides and removed the spacers (one spaces was stuck to the rust anyway) on my 95 Bravada. It works perfectly. Thanks for the info it helped point me in the right direction.
A few tips: I did not need alligator clips to use my multimeter...there are two holes within the cable connector that you can lightly "jam" the pointy ends of the multimeter into. The rotor and caliper can be removed together without separating them...it just takes some maneuvering around the lugs but it will slide around them...just have a few blocks of wood to set the whole mass onto off to the side so you don't mess up the brake line (obviously you don't want to remove the brake line banjo bolt from the caliper unless you want to bleed your brakes afterward). The bolts on the caliper take a 13/16 socket...both of mine needed a breaker bar. To clean the base that the sensor sits on, I used a hand drill with a large grinding cone...very quick. As mentioned in the video, you'll need a 5mm Allen wrench to remove the bolt holding the senor...it might be a good idea to replace that bolt since mine were very rusty and barely came out...I ended up using a hammer to tap the Allen wrench into the top of the bolt after a nice PB blaster soaking around that bolt and the rest of the sensor. It took me about 2.5 hours to repair both front sensors on my 2005 Silverado 2500HD. Thank you Matt Waggoner for the video!
Thanks guys I allready switched sensors, but did not understand how to test sensors so now i can trouble shoot which one is not working. thanks for explaning and showing the process...
Thank you for a great video. I replaced the front sensors and received an ABS CO226 fault code (LF sensor). I measured just 35 mV while coil resistance was fine at 1000 ohm. I cleaned the surface as you indicated and signal improved to 300 mV. No more ABS fault codes and ABS does no longer engage at near stop. Thanks again!
cool!
Great video and presentation...Hats off to your young camera guy....I'm fixing to check mine this weekend. Its an 2003 Silverado.
Thanks for the video. I cleaned my bearing blocks where the ABS sensor mounts and that fixed my ABS problem. Initially my Traction Active warning and ABS problems were present. Now both are corrected.
This is the best video so far ,Clear and straight to the point Good job
I just replaced both of my hub assembly's on my 05'. Now the right front is throwing C0040. Looks like I know what I'll be doing tomorrow. Thanks for the video, really helped me see what everybody meant by shorten the distance.
glad it helped! 😂
great video. tip to share when I did this cleaning is to clean inside the sensor hole with compressed air. lots of dust gets in there
Great vid Matt. Your descriptive and the quality videography did the trick in explaining this project, made the job much easier. I have to say your rust issue pales to mine in that I live in Buffalo and with the road salt during the winter, any project that comes up working on the underside of a vehicle can triple the job time just due to the rust. Thanks for your help.
skye king Thanks! I'm glad it helped you!
Yea... Buffalo, where a "light dusting of snow" is roughly equal to two feet! :)
+Matt Waggoner No, that's frost- a light dusting is over 3 feet.
Great video! I'm having this issue with my Suburban and after 3 mechanics had diagnosed everything from bad rotors (to be fair, they were pretty wrecked), to bad pads, to needing an alignment, this surely is the fix!
rear sensor is on pumpkin
sensor rear is on pumpkin
this was 3 years ago
When I worked as a heavy truck mechanic on air brakes I used to set the ABS sensor at the thickness of a razor blade. But with car ABS you’re gonna have to go by feel on the tone ring in the wheel, if you’re wheel bearing is shaky you may or may not get good ABS tone
Thank you for the great video! I originally installed both sensors and still had low speed abs engagement. Super frustrating. Metered out like you showed and had no reading. Used Emory cloth to scrub rust build up and got readings back on meter. Works great now. Nice work buddy, thanks for sharing.
Matt, thanks for your post, it has been a great help in educating me on my ABS problem,I really appreciate your time and effort.
Bob
Iv a problem created by my own indifference to grinding sound from brakes plus the ABS lights remained on. . I changed both pads and dodgy calipers.Still no brakes so Ive changed Master cylinder. I never checked these sensors as this may be the problem. Great presentation on locating and checking voltage etc in this video . Thank you
Thanks for the great video. I'm really glad you mentioned the failing bearing issue as I believe that is what's happening to me so I'm going to pursue that now.
Very great video, easy to understand, I am in northern pakistan ,here auto electronic facilities r very costly for a common car 🚗 owner.
By the help of this video I& my machanic r able to rectify my abs sensor problem .
Thanks
Did this on my 01 silverado today except I used the wire brush tip on a dremel. Works perfect now.
Great video and well done. I have a 2009 Silverado 4x4 and I keep getting ABS light comes on and the service stabletrak keeps flashing, then it stops and is fine for a couple of days then here we go again. I have been reading where the dealers change the steering wheel sensor, battery cables and brake light switch to changing the throttle body, Your video is the only one that makes sence, Thanks...........
Thanks so much, I had an intermittent brake warning after installing a new sensor. Changed from a .030" shim to a .010" shim. Reading jumped up from virtually nothing to 1.8 and no more warning light. Note to all, with no shim I could feed the sensor rubbing so I cut a .010" plastic shim and seems all good.
Very, thorough individual. I really appreciate your knowledge and time sharing this video. I have a 2005 Hummer H2 and the ABS & Traction Control lights are on. But, I find it too coincidental that there was absolutely jack squat wrong with my vehicle until a jank-leg ass stereo "installer" out of Tyler,Texas pulled my entire dashboard loose while running down an issue with a remote wire on the back of my stereo.
Marlon Sublett that’s the same thing that happen to me. What fixed your issue? Thanks in advance
Was it the installer or the speed sensor ? Thanks again
update; I was not getting good voltage from either sensor after removing and sanding where it mounts so I finally took a small file to surface and filed it to a nice smooth finish. now I just barely spin hub and get good voltage and no longer having abs problem...thanks again guys...
chad stutzman
Matt, thanks for posting this, with this video I'll be able to fix my own truck now, and save some cashola. Kudos to you my friend.
Thanks for posting. I think you read the voltage wrong. Had the decimal in wrong place. 350millivolts .350 of a volt or 35 micro volts. You had more like 2000millivolts or 2 volts if I have understood correctly. Thanks a bunch anyway, this puts me on the right track. Austin is a great cameraman👌
Well explained,,,,nice job. And no fancy expensive tools. Don’t lose a finger spinning hub,,,use a pipe slightly bigger than stud bolt and spin it that way.
Thank you for the fix video! I have an '03 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L 4x4 that is doing the same thing. No ABS light, just annoying that the brakes let go when you hit about 5mph and also they push back when you quickly apply the brakes at any speed. Dealership said both sensors were bad and the only way to fix it is buy new HUBs. Going to try the cleaning method first.
I like this diagnosis method better than other's I've seen. Thanks!
Bill Martin
Thanks!
Thanks for a useful video, had the walking speed ABS sensor activation problem and your video helped me correct the problem.
Thanks for taking the time to record and post this video, very helpful!
A very well produced video with concise information. Thanks!
Very well done and helpful. Educational on the testing part and the notes at the end were an added benefit. Have a problem with my 05 Chev Van and thought this could be cleaned by spraying break fluid down onto the sensor top. See now this is useless and the sensor is inside. It appears the corrosion issues could be addressed in manufacture but problem part of the planned obsolesanse. Thanks again for your efforts.
You helped me fix my 2001 Chevy problem. Thanks!
Thanks for this great video. This video helped me repair my low speed ABS activation problem with my Mercedes E300 brake system.Now that I know how this since the works, I can repair two other cars with similar problems. Thanks
Was the car braking or bas kicking in on its own?
Great video, Matt. Thank you for posting it. I did exactly as you've shown and it worked great. I did use some Never Seize on the hardware when I put it back together in case I have to take it apart again later
CTX50 good idea on the anti seize!
Thanks Matt, very good step-by-step procedure. Will give it a try!
Thanks 4 doing your part 2 help tame mankind and 2 save money with your expertise and resilience. Everyone B careful out there..
Ok I will be doing this to my truck soon thanks for taking the time to show that
Nice video. Here is my story.
I'm having a problem with my 2015 Nissan Altima. At about 8k miles the ABS lights came on after braking on a sandy and bumpy road with bad asphalt, but nothing major. I took the car to a dealer and they said that they ordered a "part" from Japan. Next time I came in, they did something but couldn't fix it. Third time i took the car in, they said that they got in touch with someone in Japan and fixed it. The light went off. I drove until I needed to use hard braking but the ABS did not engaged. I almost rear-ended a car in front on a wet rainy road.Took the car back. They replaced the ABS control unit.
The next time I tested with the same result - ABS did not engage - the tires locked up and didn't spin. Never felt that ABS buz on a pedal.
Back to a dealer - they check and can't find anything. No falls signals from the computer, and all is up to the specs. I took the car on the road and showed them that tires just doesn't spin in the hard braking.
They took the car in, performed ABS actuators and sensor test and all tested fine. Called Nissan tech support and they advised to replace the ABS control unit, bleeding the system. Did that. Supposedly tested ok.
All is under warranty.
The car wheels still locking up and won't spin under the hard braking. Feels like a there is no ABS on the car. It dragging the locked tires on the road, especially easy to lock up in the rain. I have no desire to go back to this dealer.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks.
I'm sorry for the late reply. I just saw your comment.
unfortunately I really wouldn't know. if I had to take a guess, I would say it's probably the ABS controller.
Very informative, thanks for this video, props to the cameraman too
Mark Belden You're welcome. Hope it helped!
i have a 2001 silverado 2500hd thank your for this video im now have my weekend project to solve this problem i did all my braks and rotors and now i know the problem
Hope my Fist 500 is this straightforward.. thanks for the clear instructions
awesome man! thanks for the video, now the process should be much easier for me now that i saw you do it,i have a 2006 yukon and the abs sensor going out makes the traction control go crazy so im very happy the fix is minimally evasive...
:)
Like the move good advise about the relation to the sensor to the reluctance wheel. Only issue you are not testing a hall effect device but a induction coil pickup . Think Dynamo. A hall effect device is a semiconductor device used on later cars and need power to run it and has a square wave output
thanks very helpful spent a couple hours made my truck safe again, no sweat
hey matt nice job. i have the exact same symptoms on my o5 gmc 1500. i found old receipt from prior owner. Timken bearings were installed on both sides so i feel those are ok. but at 3-5 mph abs will kick in and is deadly. replaced sensor but did not check with meter and i wish i would have. its super cold out here and i have to wait for warm up to dissemble and check it out.i think it will be the same conclusion as yours. for now i just unplugged the left front sensor and I’m waiting for warmer weather. THANKS for the clear instructions and tips.
Matt thanks so for the vid.i did what you said on my 2007 Silverado works great took about 1hour 20 min. AWESOME.
What a great video, been trying to figure this out for weeks. Hands down the best explanation and video I've seen on this....subscribed!
Life saver - thanks! Great trick with the multimeter.
Forgot to mention we are in the midwest, so of course the torx head was completely rusted and stripped right out (even after spraying with Free All), but switched to a hex head and worked just fine after tapping the bolt with a hammer and striking rod gently.
Having the same problem with my silverado i just picked up, strange problem and no abs light lol, will be very happy i dont have to spend $100 a side for a new sensor now! thanks!
:)
Thanks for the video. I will be looking at the abs sensor on an 2001 aztek tomorrow. I am hoping for a quick easy / inexpensive fix as the abs has been replaced a few times by my sister and still seams to have the same issue.
Mine is fixed with electronic connector cleaner. That can has saved me thousands of dollars. I recommend all connectors be cleaned first.
its a very good video and it shows you clearly what junk the chevy factory is churning out ,if that was an airplane and carrying passengers lots of people would be dead.
Thanks for the lesson on fixing the ABS sensors.
Hi, nice video, but can't the rust also get into the hub via the sensor fixing bolt hole as well as the sensor hole? Or is the threaded bore a blind hole?
Matt, Thanks for making this video! About a week ago my ABS light starting coming on and off an dI get the pulsing in my brake pedal. The stored code says its the right front wheel thats causing the problem. Looks like I have my work cut out for me on Saturday! ;-) Thanks again!
Great video,I'm about to get into my 2005 1500 Silverado when I bought the truck the previous owner had just removed the fuse from the abs,brakes work fine but all my lights are on and it won't pass state inspection.So I have no idea what is going on.Hopefully it is what you just described.Wish me luck!
Great, Simple and excellent and straight to the point.
Great Detail ,thanks you saved me a Repair bill
Thanks for this very informative video. My local mechanic was unable to resolve an intermittent failure of front wheel speed detection during slow speed braking on my 2001 Saturn even with replacement of the Hall Effect sensor. As you have explained, the accumulation of surface rust can lift the sensor away from the notched reluctor wheel. I strongly suspect that careful removal of the surface rust could have solved the problem. Is your repair shop anywhere near Chicago, where I live?
great video getting this problem with my 06 TBSS
Wow thank u. I bought one and did it. Thank u saved me money!!!
Thank you, Matt. My 2002 Sienna ABS light flashing, but when the car is rolling, the ABS light goes off. Are the sensors dirty? How are bout the rear sensors?
Thank you so much, your video is very helpful.
Got the same problem hope this helps thanks for the video going to try to fix this week
What an awesome video. I feel very confident doing this myself now. Thanks for doing such a great video!
Clear and informative.....many thanks.....great video
GREAT VIDEO SIR ,
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM RIGHT NOW.
thanks Matt this was most helpful helping with my GMC repair. sp in Colorado
Good video thanks! Probably will save me few hundred from not buying a whole new bearing assembly
The Ohms reading of just the sensor is between 900 and 1500. One read 978 and the other was 963. I probed them to make sure I got a reading and not the O.L.
Holy crap 1.3 million views! You should do more videos.
great Video. I have a 2010 Chevrolet Express. the mechanic replaced my front brakes and rotors after a couple days this issue happen to me.
Excellent instructional video! I have same problem with my 2005 GMC truck.
Just pull abs fuse and drive it like men did ; before all that bullshit safety shit came out
this fixed my 2010 express van also, thx!!!
Great video and info. I have a problem with my front n/s not breaking making the car pull to the right. I have been told my modulator is at fault and needs a new one at cost of £900 or so. I thought this could be the case but after seeing this video i am hopefull that it is not... I am going to try and fix it my self anyways. Thanks
sounds like that might be the problem. However, before you spend all that money, check to make sure the caliper is not frozen up.
Very well done Matt. I've got a 2007 Silverado and live in Indiana so rust on my truck looks about like yours. Quick question...my ABS and Brake light come on after starting engine and they stay on. Were you experiencing this or were they intermittent? I'm going to check the grounds first then the sensors. If not any of these, it may be the ABS Module. Thanks for the great video.
Tyler Beevers
I had no lights on. The truck simply refused to stop when it got below about 5mph.
The only time I had a light is when I pulled the ABS fuse.
Thank for your reply. I changed a new cluster, but the speedometer is still not working. Do you think the ECM need to change?
I am going to try...you look thorough, I'll let you know and thanks a lot!
Installed the replacement sensors with supplied shims and it created too wide a gap. Result abs kicking in at slow speeds. Removed all but one shim, checked depth of sensor into hub assbly to make sure there was no contact. Problem solved.
:-D
I got a problem with the speedometer stock all the way up is moving back down to 75 and back up there. Can that be something to do with the sensor also? Thanks
thanks for your help. very easy to follow
am so great of video since is a common in problems in our country
Will a continuity test show anything to determine condition of sensor? I will be checking my sensors this week and will be spinning wheels to check voltage.
03 Silverado is moving fast then truck is running? U think the sencer is bad .had the steeper motors changed out already
My abs light doesn't come on at the ignition, I've checked the bulb in the dashboard , would my problem be similar to what you have done here??
Matt, my 06 GMC Denali ABS light comes on when I reach 35 mph then the speedometer shakes - ranging 5-10mpg. Do you think this is an abs sensor problem? Thanks - great video - easy to follow
Doug Abbott I have not heard of that before, and I am far from an expert, but it sounds like one of the computers is giving you fits. Here's what I would do:
Pull the ABS fuse under the hood. This will disable the ABS but leave normal braking. Take it for a drive and see if the symptoms still exist.
By disabling the ABS system, you should be removing all sensor input. If the symptoms are gone, then you know roughly where the problem is. From there, it could be one of the sensors, the ABS controller, chafed wires or even the ECM itself (although I think that is pretty unlikely).
Does the light go out above 35MPH?
Good Luck!!
Have a 2006 Up Lander, engine light comes on and off. Test showed a wheel speed sensor issue. Also my transmission doesn't always go into second gear right away. Are the two issues related?
My 1999 Chevy Blazer is having ABS problems like this and I hope it is similar to this Silverado -thanks much
gm tsb says min 350 mv ac turning 1 revolution per sec, and my 1500 has rear sensors, i had a 96 1 ton and i believe the rear sensor was on the drive shaft
Based on another video I saw (Midwest Garage), the "rear" sensor is on the transfer case/drive shaft or in that vicinity, not near a wheel. My 2000 Chev K2500 shows a C0221 code, "open circuit on the right wheel sensor", ABS light is on, I confirmed I have no ABS function (welcome back to fishtailing, tested on a gravel road!), but I don't have the other low speed, etc, symptoms referred to here. I definitely agree with using either a vacuum cleaner or compressed air on that hole, as stuffing a piece of paper towel down into it seems a little crazy, and it gets in the way of the sandpapering or wire brushing. I am a retired accountant, not a mechanic, so your interpretations may vary....
good diagnostics, nice fix
:)