This man is not just a mechanic, he is a true craftsman. Most people would have just replaced the ECBM, he went old school and actually fixed the source of the problem.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It seems evident to me that you are an experienced and knowledgeable mechanic who also has a very easy-going instructional style that doesn't require any razzle-dazzle techno instructions to relay your knowledge to others--- thank you.
Just want to say thanks for making this video! The shop I used to go to wanted to charge me $700 for a new module, and that's not even counting the labor! I watched your video and had my ABS module fixed in less than an hour for the cost of a soldering iron.
You truly are a mechanic. I worked with guys like you over the years and it has been a pleasure. You would make a fantastic instructor. Better yet an automotive engineer saying hello from edmonton
What a kind remark, thank you. I love the river valley in Edmonton in September, it's a great city, a wonderful university, and I have fond memories going back decades.
My 2000 Silverado had this very problem a year ago. The ABS light and the Brake light came on frequently on rough roads and when it was very wet. Every other manufacturer puts the ABS motor under the hood, but GM likes to charge for labor in their auto shops. Your instructions on this cause and the repair was so well done I took the job on myself. In the end I had to drain the master cylinder, which was OK since I had never changed the brake fluid ever and it was way overdue to be replaced. I got the ABS unit out, tore it apart and re-soldered all the contact points you mentioned a few more. Result? Success. Thanks so much, I learned a lot and now know what Room Temperature Vulcanization is as well.
My 2002 Siverado. I just learn to live with it, only happens in winter/wet conditions. Never happens in summer time? I don't have the facilities to do this job in my garage. Glad to finally understand the problem!
@@fugwa You might refresh that ground connection, shown at the beginning. It is a common problem, easy to fix, and if it works you save yourself that annoying light and the irritation of trying to sell a vehicle with something wrong. On the other hand, you may have to search to find it, Chev changed where they put those ground connections and even the ABS housing location changed, depending on the year.
Thanks for the video. I did the module soldering and the ground cleaning. Now my abs and brake warning lights are off. My truck passed inspection so I am happy.
I followed your approach and it worked great! Didnt use flux. I used a brass wire wheel on dremel to clean gasket away from surface before applying new seal btw. Hit the metal side with glass bead media blast and polished it with the brass wheel again. Cleaned it with alcohol before applying new seal. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video...You're a patient man, had to do the same repair, but WD40'd the screws to remove the module first, waited an hour and did it again right before removing the Torx head screws...They finally broke free, so I didn't have to get as deep by removing the whole unit, but I appreciate this video and my thanks to the gent that made it.
When I did the ground screw on mine, I completely drilled a new hole, wire wheeled both sides down to bare metal, then between the metal and the ground lug on the wire, I put a heavy star lock washer. I then used a bolt and nut and a regular lock washer on the nut side. I then coated the whole thing (both sides) with dielectric grease to protect from weather.
2000 GMC 2500 sudden ABS continuously running even with the key off. No OBD codes shown. Had to pull the fuse. Tried soldering the module board as described but didn't fix it. Then sent it to the Speedometer Repair Guy. 3 days shipping each way and 1 day to rebuild. Money well spent. Fixed.
It has now been over -three- -twelve- -twenty four- -thirty six- sixty months since this repair was completed, and the intermittent ABS and parking brake warning light has not recurred. So, I'm going to call this one a verified fix.
Sir, I don't know how to communicate on you tube so well. Earlier today I posted another message to you, but wasnt sure you'd see it :-/ So you seem like a guy who can fix ANYTHING! I have the intermittent abs and brake light. I cannot find my ground strap for the ebcm (I haven't chased the wire through the loom yet, but it isn't on the frame or the steering column). I have a 95 1/2 gmc Sierra k2500. My ebcm is sealed with extremely strong adhesive-no torx screws at all in the circuit board lid. I've slowly cut the adhesive but haven't completed the job yet. Have you ever disassembled one of these? Its kelsey-hayes, with four connectors on the bottom of the unit. Any tips would be greatly appreciated :-) Yes, I'm subscribed! Thank you for all of your videos and knowledge:-) -jeff
@@jejch Somehow I missed this message, it seems TH-cam aren't posting replies to comments as consistently as they once did. Yeah, GM modified the location of their ebcm in various years, and with that the location of their ground connection. For any vehicle I own I get access to the dealer repair manual with either Alldatadiy or Mitchell. I've had better luck with Alldata, the cost is about $50 for 5 years, and they include all TSB's and updates. The first place I'd go is to the dealer repair manual. That said, you'll find the ground in the dealers manual but they won't include details of how to repair the EBCM, for something like that they just replace it. I have not done one like you describe.
Dave (that’s your name, right?) This is my first posting on your site. A year ago, at the age of 71,after finally having enough of inept and/or greedy repair shops, I decided to teach myself automotive mechanics, acquire necessary tools, clear out the garage and do my own work. I still work and my income is such that I barely make ends meet, so doing my own work is a necessity at this point. I’m on my third Astro/Safari (’88, ’00, ’04) and really like the form factor, for the most part, although engine access is horrible and some component locations are exceedingly difficult (exactly the same EBCM/ABS location). Living in the rust belt (Cape Cod) I have the usual issues with deterioration of critical parts and systems. Unfortunately, any pick and pull yards are at least an hour away, so used parts are not that easy to go and get myself in order to save some $. I’ve seen your interaction on various other YT channels and looked into this channel over the last couple days. I have to echo all other positive reviews/comments - you seem like a down-to-earth, easy-to-follow person who presents information in a positive, helpful and efficient manner. Re: your suggestion in the previous comment, I’ve just looked at both Alldatadiy and MItchell. Mitchell seems to have both text and diagrams that are easier to see and navigate as well as more complete information in general. My assessment is based on spending maybe a half hour on one free vehicle guide per both sites. I’d very much appreciate a more detailed explanation for your preference. Could you please be more specific re: “better luck” and elucidate your evaluations of both? One thing about YT makes digging for information somewhat difficult - that of most channels’ use of “Playlists” (or disuse, I might say). Life would be a lot easier if playlists were more organized and categorized by the creators of the videos, yours included. I have not investigated how YT works, so I’m not cognizant of whether or not you are able to reorganize, shuffle, create new topic headings, etc., but if that IS possible, it would help immensely to spend some time reorganizing and categorizing in such a way that someone looking for all your videos on one specific vehicle or on only lawnmowers or only vehicle brake work or motorcycles, sailing, etc., could scroll down and find that category and not have to resort to searching the channel and looking at various videos to find the specifics for which they are searching. Your playlists are definitely organized, but (for example) the last one, “Auto Repair” has videos on other subjects in the list. Scrolling through a list of 69 videos to find just the right one is time-consuming and somewhat frustrating. Just a thought, not a criticism! I totally appreciate your efforts and look forward to learning more from your channel as time goes by. Oh, ex-sailor, sailmaker/rigger/broker for 20 years - self-taught on a lot of the mechanical systems I see you’ve done videos on, way back when the only instructions come in printed form from Harken, etc. Improved on existing systems on sailboats, both standing and running rigging, hardware placement/organization, fresh and gray water, a little bit of Atomic 4 work, etc. 6500 ocean miles between US northeast - Bermuda - Caribbean. I’m a baker now (year 10), but was also a saddler for 8 years, training in England for 2 years. I’ve also built 6 houses with a friend, done renovations/repairs; Birkenstock repairs, prep cook for a caterer. Worked in wood, leather, metal, plastic. Loved to take things apart to see how they worked. Missed my calling(s) as an orthopedic surgeon and mechanical engineer. Oh well. :) (rc at reinsrealbaking dot youknowwhat if you’d prefer to get back to me that way for any of the above…) ;-)
Can a person access the necessary abs ebcm circuit board via cutting a replaceable square out of the floor of the vehicle instead of painstakingly taking it? I don't plan on selling it so I don't care if there is a curious patch.
Nice detailed explaination! A major takeaway is proper tools. A ton of major frustration can be avoided simply by collecting the proper quality tools, meters...you ‘da man!
Excellent video and write up. Thank you. There’s guy guy with over a million views describing this repair that isn’t half as good as your write up on TH-cam. Maybe you should title the video different because you deserve much more views. Thank you sir
Appreciated the detailed video. I removed the top part only with one one stripped torx, dremelled a slot and removed it. Soldier, silicone and some new SS screws and she works perfectly. Got to say it's weird not seeing the ABS & CEL on. 🙂 Three hours saved me $300 bucks. Thanks again.
Great DIY video....I have subscribed. BTW, the thermal jointing compound (white crap) that you referred to as thermally conductive glue, has no adhesive properties of which I am aware. However...when it "cooks" for years, & is subjected to pyrolysis (heating & cooling) it "cakes" & dries out. I am not saying that it could never break a board on removal, but since I have never seen an adhesive paste that was thermally conductive, I would suggest that if the board broke upon removal, it was due to the board being pried in the attempt to remove it. You do these videos very well, & your verbal descriptions are excellent. Thank you for your "farmer fixes" (that is meant as a compliment) & your small town conversations. Both are delightful ! Cheers! & I look forward to seeing more of them. Cheers! Brian
Great video. Thanks. One suggestion always try to tighten any bolt just a bit before trying to loosen any bolt. In most cases the screw or bolt will break loose much easier.
A couple of my torx screws stripped. I removed my front seat and drilled a couple of half inch holes above the stripped out screws. I then used a smaller fit to drill the heads off the torc screws. I used rtv to glue a couple of pennies I found under the seat to seal the holes.
Very good job and excellent video on how it is done. I have a 02' Silverado I got from my son when we bought him a new Silverado. I did this fix without having to remove the whole assembly because my torx head screws weren't as badly corroded. Five years now and the ABS light is still on. I guess if I want it off I will have to get a whole new assembly. All wheel sensors check okay and scan tools haven't shown any codes? I haven't done the gravel road test yet but I think I will do that just out of curiosity. I just looked and see that you posted this video 5 years ago also. GM is very protective of there computer programing and it makes it almost impossible for regular people to do repairs that should be easy. I really miss the old days when it was just wires fuses and nuts and bolts ASME and not 10mm BS.
What a detailed explanation and repair video. So well spoken in excellent English. I suspect that you probably are a Mechanical Engineer and of course a great Canadian. Stay out of those caves dude.
Interesting job, you motivated me to try on my board. I got Captiva 2010, brake light & ABS lights on like a Christmas tree. Replaced abs sensor but didn't fix. Scanner confirm unable to communicate with abs unit and something with loss ground. So there are 2 areas to investigate.
A bad ground can produce all kinds of symptoms and is often an easy, no parts repair. I'd start there. Make sure the module has a good ground and power feed.
Very nice video, or lesson! My son bought a Saab 9-7x (AKA Chevy trailblazer), which I'm sure is very similar to a saburban. I don't think he has an ABS light, but does have a stabilitrack error. I am hoping I don't have to do those repairs, since the ABS modulator is a bear to get to! I did replace the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder, since they rotted out just below the master cylinder. Saab (or actually GM) used braided neoprene lines from the master cylinder, all the way back to the modulator. What a job that was, reaching up to get those lines off! I also replaced the steering angle sensor, and need to go out today and calibrate it and calibrate the Yaw sensor with my Tech 2, since I just got my GM card for it, and of course will select trailblazer on the menu (go figure!). Hopefully, that is all it is with stabilitrack error? Any thoughts on this?
I'm afraid I don't have any experience with that system. Usually I look to live data to search for clues, and overall the most common problem flagged by ABS is a bad wheel speed sensor. As you know, stabilitrack gets input from many, and even one bad sensor can be enough to pull the whole system down. The trend to require a reflash when new hardware is added is annoying for those of us who want to do everything.
Exciter ring ( magnetic Ring ) may be broken. It is part of the wheel bearing and is magnetic and can only be checked by jacking up the car and checking from the back side while spinning the tire. Do a search for wheel bearing Exciter ring. Also check for worn out wheel bearings.
This is why it is worthwhile to have a scan tool that can read live data. You notice on the test drive, just after 1:00, all wheel speed sensors were sending data perfectly. So, right out the gate, you know it's not the wheel speed sensors. If one is bad, you also will know which speed sensor is delivering bad data. You are right, that would be the most common cause of an abs light, but not here.
The ABS EBCM should be high up under the hood. Another engineering marvel! It was probably the first thing that came down the assembly line and the entire vehicle was built around it.......(eyes rolled!)
1pcmedic in the 90’s they were. I got lucky on my 00 tahoe and got the EBCM off without taking the ABS unit off. The whole time cursing GM as I cut the junk out of my hand.
Great work Dave and that ABS unit looked like a bear to get to and get out. Taking your unit apart didn't seem as bad as mine. Of course, you remember I sent mine off to have it repaired and I saw that they drilled and tapped a hole to screw a bolt in from the back side to release the cover. If only I knew :) Now for those leaking brake lines and you'll be good to go.
Special thanks at 6:09 how to get the electrical connector loose. Seems there is not one electrical connector in the world that is the same as the last one. Thanks!
Got a 2002 avalanche 106k miles .. Took it in to get it serviced and they said that thing was out and said no worries it’s a common problem but I wanted that whole thing replaced yes it’s $500 for a replacement but that would be worth it because if I do what you did here and let’s say run it through a water puddle considering this part of Louisiana is all about that then I would just have to replace it anyway, but it’ll be worth it .. Because I would hate having those ABS and brake light staring in my face especially at night.. and of course peace of mind.. Love the Vape because I’m a Vape man to👍😎👍😎
When i see mechanics like this ot makes me satisfied that they aren't just putting new parts but they opening it inside and fixing the part. I am also mechanic for trucks and by opening some parts you can get suppressed how many of them you can fix them. Just you need time for it.
Great job & video, very helpful, I have a 2000 Suburban and a 2000 Z71 pickup, the pick up has the same problem with the lights doing exactly as you indicated. Thanks very much!!!
@spelunkerd Thanks alot for all this information. Just wondering, if there needs to be a gasket laid out for in-between the module and the pump when reassembling?
There's no gasket there, and the GM service manual said not to use RTV there either. They advised care not to score the surfaces when getting them apart. I was living dangerously using a screwdriver in the video, but it worked out OK.
@@spelunkerdI appalogize, I missed the part where you said there is no RTV. I was wondering also, does the vehicle have to be taken in for the brakes to be bled?
@@paul-gn1wq You will need to bleed the brakes if you disconnect the lines as I did, but if you simply remove the EBCM module then I don't believe you need to bleed. Brake bleeding in this vehicle is very similar to normal bleeding. After bleeding I take it to a gravel road and hit the brakes hard to get the ABS motor vibrating, hoping to jar any air bubbles inside the ABS motor loose. If the brake line feels spongy after that I repeat the bleeding procedure. There is a way to skip that step if you have a scan tool that can activate the ABS motor while you are bleeding the normal way.
The white "glue" is thermal compound paste. This should be removed and replaced. This thermal paste can be found at a computer store such as Best Buy. Thermal paste helps transfer heat from the IC chips on the board to the metal cover which acts as a heat sink keeping the IC chips cool.
Just cleaned the ground on my 1999 Silverado. Fingers crossed that'll alleviate the idiot light warnings. Will post a follow up reply to this comment if it works. NIce content, thanks for the info!
I was thinking the same thing about the daft screws, show them the bin and install normal ones :-D. I have a hate for all the odd scews/bolts being used now, 1/4 hex headed screws would have been much simpler to remove, but that's me, im old tech lol :-D. That didn't look to easy to remove, pity they didn't put the whole thing under the hood. I did wonder if the wheel speed sensors were all ok, but turning the car off then on would not clear a faulty sensor, so ignore my jibbering lol. I know almost zero about the subject, but i always enjoy the mental gymnastics that you create in my grey matter :-).
Wow; nice, always waiting for the next dish from your out of this world channel. I have the same temperament as yourself actually but when I see work like this I get a little excited. You'll have to pardon me on that one. ;) ..
If you want to activated the abs, you just need to apply the brakes on a washboard, gravel or pavement Inline tube supplies full brakeline kits that are prebent and flared just like factory, they are available also in stainless steel
Great video. Just wondering if an impact driver could have helped? The type that you use with a hammer and it turns your driver a little with each strike of the hammer.
Yeah, those things are underappreciated, though in this case there wasn't enough room to get the tool into the confined space. No room to swing a hammer for sure. Thanks for stopping by!
I think there are potentially three different modules made by three different companies on these cars, and in the case of at least one of those the edge of the pcb runs right along the seam (in other words, the pcb is on the same plane as the rtv'ed seam)... so you can run into a lot more than just the circuit board standoffs with your x-acto knife. To make matters worse, in spots where they used too much sealant it can catch the edge of the board as you separate the case, so if that happens on a corner it's very easy to crack the circuit board as you pull the top off.
It is "always" good to take a pic and clean out every torx bolt before trying to remove it...that way you clean out the dirt and rust and have a better grip to put your torx driver into lessening the change of a stripped bolt.
It's a button head Allen. Take a flat punch and reflaten the head a little. The driver will bite. Or take a pair of five grips and grab the head on the side .
May be helping my buddy with his '02 Tahoe 4wd Z71 soon which has brake fluid leaking out in front of the rear left tire below the back door. He just wants to get it fixed so he can sell it since it's sat like this for over 18 months. What would you recommend for fixing it quickly (BUT safely)? Are there brake line kits out there that are easy to install (yet SAFE)? It also has the ABS light on and the code is C0267 which is something to do with the pump motor circuit? I hotwired the pump motor and it works. Do you know what that code could mean for his particular truck? The EBCM? Fantastic job with your video.👍
The brake leak sounds a lot like the same failure point as mine. I would replace the entire line going to the rear wheels, in my vehicle the rear wheel line splits into two so a single line feeds both. Newer vehicles may have individual lines, I don't know about yours. Some guys, notoriously Scotty Kilmer, would replace just the bad segment and make two unions, however his technique is badly flawed and illegal in many states. You don't want to sell a vehicle that may make you liable if something happens later. There are flare kits to correctly replace a segment but access is so poor it is probably easier just to replace the entire line and be done with it. As far as the ABS code goes, I am not sure, it could be the same issue as I showed. Fixing the ABS is a huge amount of work for a vehicle you're flipping, probably not worth it in most vehicles of this vintage. I would start with the dealer repair manual, I use Alldatadiy, and if it looks like the EBCM I would refresh the ground as I showed at the beginning. You could start by checking the wheel speed sensors to be sure they are each sending a signal to the pcm. Good luck!
Hello. So I tried to hook a trailer up to my 2002 Chevy avalanche and none of the lights are working, it's not a fuse, the lights on the trailer work just fine, could it be the brake and abs lights issue not allowing the trailer lights to function?
That wouldn't be very common. A more likely diagnosis would be lack of power or ground in the connector. You'll need a multimeter and patience. Look for what is missing. Corrosion and damage to wires is very common at that point.
I have an 04 yukon that has its brake light, abs light and TC light coming on at once. Every two mins while driving down the highway it comes on and goes away. I had the abs module rebuilt a few months ago only for the issue to resurface a few weeks later. $300 for a new module is nuts!!
Rebuilt modules installed by professionals usually come with a warranty, and a few months is likely within that time limit. I would contact the pro who installed it, first. If you have no warranty, I would check the common things, especially the ground connection which can present in the same way. To be sure of the ground, you could put a nut on the back of the ground stud after cleaning it, if yours is mounted the same way mine was. Also clean the battery connections, and the battery to engine/chassis connections, for the same reason. You may end up following the path I used in this vehicle. Mine is still going strong, no issues at all.
Yup, retired, I was never a pro mechanic. I don't know if this Suburban would have been worth fixing by a pro, that brake leak could have been a terminal event. Thanks for the feedback!
spelunkerd thanks for replying. I think I was not clear with my question. I ment can a diyer get to a great level of work or I need to wait to be retired to have the time. Just to hear your thoughts about it. Thanks.
Yeah, I was doing these even before retirement, but learning the video and audio skills is a time consuming process, punctuated by many errors. Most people don't have the patience or free time to commit to that. I think what makes many shy away from posting videos is fear of abuse from viewers, and every TH-cam author will have a handful of those sarcastic critics. Very few critics give back to the TH-cam community except as an egocentric swipe at the world. I applaud anybody who is willing to put themselves out there in an effort to really give back to the community in general. Go for it! When I face a repair around the home, the first thing I do is go to the 'net to look for what is out there. If I find a video that explains it all better than I could, I wouldn't bother making a video since I will never get many views, unless I can make it onto the first page of a typical Google search. However often you can find enough detail you can pull a helpful video together into a unique resource for those who face the same problem, if only because you might be able to explain it a little better. The real golden treasure is when professionals drop by and offer more detail than you have uncovered, making the thread even more valuable to those who visit. Ultimately newer videos that are better than yours will surface, eclipsing your effort. That kind of competition makes us all better, it's what is so great about this platform.
i have same issue - Such a bad spot for the abs modual. does all the brake fluid drain out - and what kind of bleed needs to be done after. ? i was thinking cutting a panel from above and make an access hatch.
When ABS hit the market I wondered if bleeding would be more complex. Usually not, most bleed fine. To be sure, professionals without access to proprietary scan tools will sometimes bleed, then drive to a gravel road, jam on the brakes to activate the ABS motor a couple of times. If the pedal is soft after that, bleed again. Alternatively if you have a scan tool you can use to activate the ABS, you bleed normally, then activate the ABS electronically, then bleed again. The new obstacle is now electronic parking brakes, that may require a scan tool to back up the slave cylinder so rotors can come off.
I drive an S-10. My access is from the top. I have the same lights on almost all the time (ABS and parking brake) When I get the chance I will make this repair. BTW, when the ABS light is on, it will not work and your brakes will lock up!
Go for the ground connection first, if it is similar to mine throw a nut on the back to eliminate that possibility completely. You might find more info in a dedicated dealer repair manual for your truck. Many things will cause that light to go on, so checking the individual wheel sensors is pretty important since a bad tone ring or wheel sensor may look the same. Wheel sensors go bad all the time, usually coupled with a code that points to the bad wheel. Good luck!
I have a 2001 Blazer. Sometimes the ABS Brake lite comes on and then I shut off the motor and tap the brake a few times and it goes off. Can you give me an idea what's wrong? Thank you so much.
Overall the most common cause is a failing wheel speed sensor, but guessing isn't necessary or appropriate. Notice that I used my scan tool to see all the wheel speed sensors are working in this vehicle. If you want to try making the diagnosis yourself then you'll need access to a scan tool that can show live data. Auto parts stores will sometimes lend those out, or you can buy one for about a hundred dollars. Alternatively you can pay a shop to make the diagnosis for you. If it is a wheel speed sensor, the fix isn't usually too expensive.
Very interesting video. A+ Thank you for posting this. I am dealing with the same problem in my Impala. Could you make a video detailing how to remove the EBCM, please. I will appreciate it a lot.
Even within the GM product line, every vehicle is different. You can find the EBCM by tracing brake lines from the MC. If you're lucky the EBCM will be in the engine compartment where it is easier to get at. The diagnostic steps I showed are important, you need to be sure it is not just a bad wheel sensor or tone ring that would be much easier to deal with (more common overall). Also, refresh the EBCM ground wire if you have a similar intermittent presentation before doing anything more. For sure, use a scan tool to document the diagnostic codes. You can get a dealer repair manual online, I use alldatadiy, though mitchelldiy is also available. The most difficult step is to decide whether you are up to the challenge, since repairs like this often lead to difficulties that require extra tools and a versatile skill set. An attempt that fails can lead to problems that are much more expensive than you started with, so there is some risk to consider. If in doubt about the diagnosis, a visit to a pro shop for diagnosis might be a good investment. Good luck!
I changed a broken brake line on my 2006 Tahoe and now the ABS light and brake light won't turn off. Brakes working great, what do you think it is? I appreciate any intel.
Before getting too worried, I'd check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir, then clear the codes by disconnecting the negative pole of the battery for a minute, then reconnect. I wonder if the system detected a low fluid level, triggering the code, requiring a reset. If that doesn't work, I'd carefully find a gravel road, roll the car at about 20mph, and slam on the brake to see if the abs motor will fire off. Then I'd return to the shop, raise the rear wheels, get somebody to press on the brake, then with brake applied, try to spin each of the rear wheels to be sure the rear brakes work. Sometimes drums require adjustment, and sometimes rebleeding is required after activating the abs. Then I'd slide under the car and check the wiring to the abs unit, to be sure you didn't accidentally disrupt wiring. Pay special attention to the wiring to each wheel speed sensor, make sure you didn't accidentally disconnect one when you bled brakes, carefully check out the ground to the abs. Then I'd go to the fuse box and verify that no fuses are blown. I did a recent Subaru video showing that a simple blown brake light fuse can cause what you describe. Failing all of that, I would go to a scan tool with live data to verify that each wheel speed sensor is working, and I'd read the codes for more direction. Good luck!
@@spelunkerd Thanks I'm disk breaks all around so disconnecting the ground sounds promising as the master cylinder did empty out, Thanks I will get back to you tomorrow.
@@112223alex In the 'old days', pre 1995, we had a proportioning valve that would feed pressure to two separate systems, so that if pressure dropped in one, the valve would snap over a Y-intersection and still deliver pressure to the other two wheels. That valve required a manual reset after a depressurization event, which was as simple as sliding the valve to midline with a sharp instrument. Your clue was no brakes in the rear (or front) after bleeding. In the ABS days those valves have been replaced by the ABS, but I presume it does the same thing automatically. The dealers repair manual might offer other ideas or options for you. I subscribe to alldatadiy to get a copy of what professional mechanics have. It's worth a look if you are still coming up empty. When ABS hit the market, we wondered if the ABS might cause difficult bleeding by creating a pocket of air inside the ABS. It turned out most of the time they would still bleed normally. Practically, you want to activate the abs after bleeding to release any air that might be trapped inside the abs, then bleed again.
Double check that ground connection, live wheel speed sensor output, connectors, and your codes to be sure it isn't something else. To be thorough most guys would verify good power and ground at the connectors. Mine is still going strong but as you say your other option is to replace it. I have no experience with companies who do that. If your wheel diameter is not stock you may need a reflash. Good luck!
@@spelunkerd awesome, I will take a look again. Wheel diameter is still stock. My 2001 suburban has 375k all original miles and has many issues now. It would cost me more to fix everything than what's it's worth but it has a lot of sentimental value. Thanks for the reply, take care.
Could you have removed the PC board from that housing if you needed to? I've seen several videos on this repair and obviously poorly soldered connections are a common source of trouble with these modules,. But there is another source of trouble that could cause problems: defective electrolytic capacitors. These components are found in nearly anything electronic and these modules would be no exception. In the harsh environment of a vehicle their lifespan is compromised. After being subjected to the extremes of temperature and humidity over several years in a vehicle they will fail and cause faults. But to replace them the circuit board has to be removed completely. It looks like this module has been "potted," making board removal impossible. Was that what you found in your part?
I didn't find screws holding that board in place, and I wondered if I might break it if I aggressively tried to remove it. Undoubtedly it does come off but I wasn't sure how it was held on so I stopped there. The connection to the solenoids is there as well and I wondered if I might mess those up with my clumsy meat hooks. You make good points about bad caps in this vintage of electronics. Thankfully in this case my repair was all that was needed, and in fact I drove the vehicle yesterday, 408,000 km on the clock so far. I haven't needed to do any ABS repairs since this video.
Good point, I actually got a length of Nicopp line in case all of the pre-made segments don't fit. It's hard to beat the price of a full kit, including fittings and the saving on labor. We'll see how it works.
So do you know if it's a fact that if u chose to just drive with out ABS, will the pump continue to run and if so is that a bad thing, to let the pump run?
The ABS only kicks in when you skid, like on a gravel road when the wheels lock up. It isn't a normal driving experience and it won't cause problems even if it somehow activated with a bad control unit. I don't think it would ever activate if the control unit was bad, in my case the control unit was intermittently not working. You can hear it activate, you get a humming, vibrating sound for a few seconds when the ABS is working. Not a bad thing at all, though if it was stuck on, the motor wouldn't survive more than a few minutes.
Very interesting and helpful video. Many thanks to you. Keep up the good work man. I have a question. Where the EBCM is located on a Chevy impala 2003? I have that ABS light on for months. After I spent more than $500 at the dealer to fix it, they said that I have to change the EBCM. Any help on this, I will appreciate it. Thanks again.
The resource I use is Alldatadiy, which gives you the dealer repair manual and all TSBs for a small fee. But to answer your question without that, you could trace the brake lines from the MC , they will lead you right to the abs motor. The EBCM will be very close to the abs motor.
Possibly, but the standard approach is to be sure that the module is getting power and ground and that communication pathways are intact. This problem I worked up is a fairly well known problem for the GM ABS module in this generation of truck, so I approached it with that background in mind. Good luck!
@@spelunkerd Same ABS Light on which went out but went back on after 10 minutes usually its on steady . No communication to Scanner .. why not just get another guaranteed wrecking yard ABS and replace it . My 02 venture is in Engine compartment I will check for bad ground .
@@oldtimedrumcorps Yes, with no comm to module, check power and ground, then go for the module if the comm wiring seems to be intact. Noise on the ground wire can throw the code, but I don't remember lack of comm. I would refresh that ground connection in any case. I read somewhere that the new module may require a reflash if tire size is different, hopefully the new module and your PCM will talk nice to each other. Online you can find rebuilt modules, they may offer a core refund.
Is there a way to dissable the ABS system WITHOUT pulling the 60amp fuse under hood? Doing so also illuminates the "brake" light on the dash. Curious if anyone here knows. Also pulling the harness at the pump also illuminates the "brake" light as well
That's a good question, I don't know. I can think of many reasons a manufacturer would design the system to not easily do that, if only to reliably show the driver that the ABS unit is not active. Unscrupulous sellers have been know to remove warning lights from behind the dash, but doing that leaves a red flag for investigators, with legal responsibilities that may follow. You are not required to have ABS, many cars are still on the road with no ABS at all. Concealing the evidence seems like an offside ploy.
When the lights are on the ABS will NOT work. I locked my wheels up during a panick brake. Can I remove the electrical unit with the hydraulic block in place? It’s a pain to bleed through GM ABS blocks and want to avoid that if possible.
Yes, the preferred method is to just remove the EBCM, leaving the ABS motor and brake lines in place, if you can get those torx screws undone. Dealers manual procedure describes removing the neg pole of battery, remove the bolts holding the bracket in place to give yourself about an inch more clearance above, and hope you can get those screws undone. I hope you have more success than I did with that, this old car is rusted everywhere. If this unit fails again it should be a little easier to remove because the screws won't have had 18 years to seize up.
It may be, but you need a scan tool to show that a more common problem of wheel speed sensor failure is not the issue. Without a scan tool, I don't think I would attempt this repair.
In this vehicle bleeding brake lines is done the same way it has always been done. The one recommended extra step is to bleed the ABS, which can be done with a scan tool or by simply driving to a gravel road and doing a hard stop from about 15 mph a couple of times, then repeat the bleed. One advantage of having the ABS unit so low down is the way trapped air gets mostly bled out automatically, by gravity.
TH-camrs, remember don't drive the car until the break lines are replaced, brake fluid refilled and bled, and you have the wheels remounted and air pressure checked. Happy motoring.
I knew that one of the safety police would soon come by to comment on the project being interrupted half way through and the inherent dangers that would present, so I had to get in there first to forestall that :-)
Good question, I don't know for sure. I believe they are programmed with an eye to wheel size, so if your wheels are a different diameter compared to the wheels of the donor vehicle, there will be a mismatch. However I don't know if that will be enough to trigger an error code or enough to cause a performance decline. Presumably it also depends on the make and model year.
Not normally. When there is a fault detected by the computer, the system is shut down completely, reverting to the old style brakes that we had before the ABS revolution. The one exception to that general rule of thumb was a problem experienced about ten years ago, when one of the manufacturers had a wheel sensor that gave spurious readings at low rpm. it turned out to be a bad electrical connector at the tone ring. I don't remember which manufacturer that was, GM? The abs would trip at low vehicle speed, but it was more of an annoyance than a cause of crashes.
I found my fuel pump relay was put in backwards. After cleaning grounds. If it’s in backwards or upside down lettering on top of relay. it looses a permanent ground for relay. I was shocked that’s all I did. 02 Tahoe 175k miles.
Interesting story. Years ago, I scratched my head when I found many relays, in multiple cars, that seem to be upside down in the fuse box. Then I realized that many relays (not all) are designed to work just as well when placed upside down, a kind of 'plaindrome' effect caused by symmetry of design. Engineers realized that rather than building chirality into the plug, all they need to do is create cross-ways symmetry. So, rectangular plugs connect to the pole of the opposite corner, on each side. Because it is rectangular you can't mix signal side with power/switch side (also blade orientation builds that in). After all, where those connections go is hardwired into the fuse box, and most five pin relays can only physically go in one way. I'd be checking each of those spade connections for corrosion. Or, maybe the relay didn't belong where is was placed.
@@spelunkerd I had heard it didn’t matter how relays went in fuse box, so I figured as long as they lined up and fit correctly I would just turn relays around to see? Both ABS and Brake lights come on after a bump in the road or just applying break pedal. The dreaded solder connection repair was in my near future. But after turning 3 of the same type relays around, they haven’t come back on. Over 100 miles so far? Hopefully it helps someone else?
Gee, I don't know, it depends on what is wrong. As you see I replaced all the lines and fixed the module, but if only the module is bad it might be a lot less. Also I had the difficulty of not being able to easily remove the EBCM because of stripped screws, which led to a lot more work. The EBCM part itself is a couple hundred dollars just for a rebuilt option. If they did it the same way I did, including the leaking brake line, I'll guess there would be about 6-8 hours of shop time, plus parts. If they only fixed a leaking brake line, less time and fewer parts. You could ask a pro for a quote. In old vehicles like this, it wouldn't take much to exceed the resale value of the car. If only the EBCM is the problem, then you're dealing with a warning light and lack of ABS. Some would continue driving, though there is a liability angle if an accident happens. Many vehicles don't have ABS at all, and they are still legal on the road today.
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This man is not just a mechanic, he is a true craftsman. Most people would have just replaced the ECBM, he went old school and actually fixed the source of the problem.
What a kind remark, thank you.
I agree
Even if this doesn't work for me I want to thank you for making such a thorough and helpful video. I learned a lot from this.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It seems evident to me that you are an experienced and knowledgeable mechanic who also has a very easy-going instructional style that doesn't require any razzle-dazzle techno instructions to relay your knowledge to others--- thank you.
Thanks man, nice to hear from another Canuck.
Just want to say thanks for making this video! The shop I used to go to wanted to charge me $700 for a new module, and that's not even counting the labor! I watched your video and had my ABS module fixed in less than an hour for the cost of a soldering iron.
Thanks, you made my day!
shop wants to charge me 2400 dollars to replace module and pump
You gotta have patience if you wanna learn
You truly are a mechanic. I worked with guys like you over the years and it has been a pleasure. You would make a fantastic instructor. Better yet an automotive engineer saying hello from edmonton
What a kind remark, thank you. I love the river valley in Edmonton in September, it's a great city, a wonderful university, and I have fond memories going back decades.
My 2000 Silverado had this very problem a year ago. The ABS light and the Brake light came on frequently on rough roads and when it was very wet. Every other manufacturer puts the ABS motor under the hood, but GM likes to charge for labor in their auto shops. Your instructions on this cause and the repair was so well done I took the job on myself. In the end I had to drain the master cylinder, which was OK since I had never changed the brake fluid ever and it was way overdue to be replaced. I got the ABS unit out, tore it apart and re-soldered all the contact points you mentioned a few more. Result? Success. Thanks so much, I learned a lot and now know what Room Temperature Vulcanization is as well.
Thanks, man! You made my day.
My 2002 Siverado. I just learn to live with it, only happens in winter/wet conditions. Never happens in summer time? I don't have the facilities to do this job in my garage. Glad to finally understand the problem!
@@fugwa You might refresh that ground connection, shown at the beginning. It is a common problem, easy to fix, and if it works you save yourself that annoying light and the irritation of trying to sell a vehicle with something wrong. On the other hand, you may have to search to find it, Chev changed where they put those ground connections and even the ABS housing location changed, depending on the year.
I have done this repair on a 2000 S10 ZR2 and can confirm that it works. My lights have stayed off for over a year now.
Thanks for the video. I did the module soldering and the ground cleaning. Now my abs and brake warning lights are off. My truck passed inspection so I am happy.
I followed your approach and it worked great! Didnt use flux. I used a brass wire wheel on dremel to clean gasket away from surface before applying new seal btw. Hit the metal side with glass bead media blast and polished it with the brass wheel again. Cleaned it with alcohol before applying new seal. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video...You're a patient man, had to do the same repair, but WD40'd the screws to remove the module first, waited an hour and did it again right before removing the Torx head screws...They finally broke free, so I didn't have to get as deep by removing the whole unit, but I appreciate this video and my thanks to the gent that made it.
When I did the ground screw on mine, I completely drilled a new hole, wire wheeled both sides down to bare metal, then between the metal and the ground lug on the wire, I put a heavy star lock washer. I then used a bolt and nut and a regular lock washer on the nut side. I then coated the whole thing (both sides) with dielectric grease to protect from weather.
2000 GMC 2500 sudden ABS continuously running even with the key off. No OBD codes shown. Had to pull the fuse. Tried soldering the module board as described but didn't fix it. Then sent it to the Speedometer Repair Guy. 3 days shipping each way and 1 day to rebuild. Money well spent. Fixed.
It has now been over -three- -twelve- -twenty four- -thirty six- sixty months since this repair was completed, and the intermittent ABS and parking brake warning light has not recurred. So, I'm going to call this one a verified fix.
Sir, I don't know how to communicate on you tube so well. Earlier today I posted another message to you, but wasnt sure you'd see it :-/ So you seem like a guy who can fix ANYTHING! I have the intermittent abs and brake light. I cannot find my ground strap for the ebcm (I haven't chased the wire through the loom yet, but it isn't on the frame or the steering column). I have a 95 1/2 gmc Sierra k2500. My ebcm is sealed with extremely strong adhesive-no torx screws at all in the circuit board lid. I've slowly cut the adhesive but haven't completed the job yet. Have you ever disassembled one of these? Its kelsey-hayes, with four connectors on the bottom of the unit. Any tips would be greatly appreciated :-) Yes, I'm subscribed! Thank you for all of your videos and knowledge:-)
-jeff
@@jejch Somehow I missed this message, it seems TH-cam aren't posting replies to comments as consistently as they once did. Yeah, GM modified the location of their ebcm in various years, and with that the location of their ground connection. For any vehicle I own I get access to the dealer repair manual with either Alldatadiy or Mitchell. I've had better luck with Alldata, the cost is about $50 for 5 years, and they include all TSB's and updates. The first place I'd go is to the dealer repair manual. That said, you'll find the ground in the dealers manual but they won't include details of how to repair the EBCM, for something like that they just replace it. I have not done one like you describe.
Dave (that’s your name, right?)
This is my first posting on your site. A year ago, at the age of 71,after finally having enough of inept and/or greedy repair shops, I decided to teach myself automotive mechanics, acquire necessary tools, clear out the garage and do my own work. I still work and my income is such that I barely make ends meet, so doing my own work is a necessity at this point.
I’m on my third Astro/Safari (’88, ’00, ’04) and really like the form factor, for the most part, although engine access is horrible and some component locations are exceedingly difficult (exactly the same EBCM/ABS location). Living in the rust belt (Cape Cod) I have the usual issues with deterioration of critical parts and systems. Unfortunately, any pick and pull yards are at least an hour away, so used parts are not that easy to go and get myself in order to save some $.
I’ve seen your interaction on various other YT channels and looked into this channel over the last couple days. I have to echo all other positive reviews/comments - you seem like a down-to-earth, easy-to-follow person who presents information in a positive, helpful and efficient manner.
Re: your suggestion in the previous comment, I’ve just looked at both Alldatadiy and MItchell. Mitchell seems to have both text and diagrams that are easier to see and navigate as well as more complete information in general. My assessment is based on spending maybe a half hour on one free vehicle guide per both sites.
I’d very much appreciate a more detailed explanation for your preference. Could you please be more specific re: “better luck” and elucidate your evaluations of both?
One thing about YT makes digging for information somewhat difficult - that of most channels’ use of “Playlists” (or disuse, I might say). Life would be a lot easier if playlists were more organized and categorized by the creators of the videos, yours included. I have not investigated how YT works, so I’m not cognizant of whether or not you are able to reorganize, shuffle, create new topic headings, etc., but if that IS possible, it would help immensely to spend some time reorganizing and categorizing in such a way that someone looking for all your videos on one specific vehicle or on only lawnmowers or only vehicle brake work or motorcycles, sailing, etc., could scroll down and find that category and not have to resort to searching the channel and looking at various videos to find the specifics for which they are searching. Your playlists are definitely organized, but (for example) the last one, “Auto Repair” has videos on other subjects in the list. Scrolling through a list of 69 videos to find just the right one is time-consuming and somewhat frustrating. Just a thought, not a criticism! I totally appreciate your efforts and look forward to learning more from your channel as time goes by.
Oh, ex-sailor, sailmaker/rigger/broker for 20 years - self-taught on a lot of the mechanical systems I see you’ve done videos on, way back when the only instructions come in printed form from Harken, etc. Improved on existing systems on sailboats, both standing and running rigging, hardware placement/organization, fresh and gray water, a little bit of Atomic 4 work, etc. 6500 ocean miles between US northeast - Bermuda - Caribbean. I’m a baker now (year 10), but was also a saddler for 8 years, training in England for 2 years. I’ve also built 6 houses with a friend, done renovations/repairs; Birkenstock repairs, prep cook for a caterer. Worked in wood, leather, metal, plastic. Loved to take things apart to see how they worked. Missed my calling(s) as an orthopedic surgeon and mechanical engineer. Oh well. :) (rc at reinsrealbaking dot youknowwhat if you’d prefer to get back to me that way for any of the above…) ;-)
We’ve got lots in common, thank you for your insight, and for letting me know something about the kind of viewer I’m hoping to reach.
Can a person access the necessary abs ebcm circuit board via cutting a replaceable square out of the floor of the vehicle instead of painstakingly taking it?
I don't plan on selling it so I don't care if there is a curious patch.
Nice detailed explaination! A major takeaway is proper tools. A ton of major frustration can be avoided simply by collecting the proper quality tools, meters...you ‘da man!
Excellent video and write up. Thank you. There’s guy guy with over a million views describing this repair that isn’t half as good as your write up on TH-cam. Maybe you should title the video different because you deserve much more views. Thank you sir
Appreciated the detailed video. I removed the top part only with one one stripped torx, dremelled a slot and removed it. Soldier, silicone and some new SS screws and she works perfectly. Got to say it's weird not seeing the ABS & CEL on. 🙂 Three hours saved me $300 bucks. Thanks again.
This is an excellent video! You go above an beyond on your repairs.
Thanks, man!
Great DIY video....I have subscribed. BTW, the thermal jointing compound (white crap) that you referred to as thermally conductive glue, has no adhesive properties of which I am aware. However...when it "cooks" for years, & is subjected to pyrolysis (heating & cooling) it "cakes" & dries out. I am not saying that it could never break a board on removal, but since I have never seen an adhesive paste that was thermally conductive, I would suggest that if the board broke upon removal, it was due to the board being pried in the attempt to remove it. You do these videos very well, & your verbal descriptions are excellent. Thank you for your "farmer fixes" (that is meant as a compliment) & your small town conversations. Both are delightful ! Cheers! & I look forward to seeing more of them. Cheers! Brian
Great video. Thanks. One suggestion always try to tighten any bolt just a bit before trying to loosen any bolt. In most cases the screw or bolt will break loose much easier.
I'm having the same issue on my 1999 Chevy Silverado, this gives me a place to start.
A couple of my torx screws stripped. I removed my front seat and drilled a couple of half inch holes above the stripped out screws. I then used a smaller fit to drill the heads off the torc screws. I used rtv to glue a couple of pennies I found under the seat to seal the holes.
Ha ha, that's a very creative solution! I like the way you thought that one through.
The light stayed off. Thanks for a great how to.
Very good job and excellent video on how it is done. I have a 02' Silverado I got from my son when we bought him a new Silverado. I did this fix without having to remove the whole assembly because my torx head screws weren't as badly corroded. Five years now and the ABS light is still on. I guess if I want it off I will have to get a whole new assembly. All wheel sensors check okay and scan tools haven't shown any codes? I haven't done the gravel road test yet but I think I will do that just out of curiosity. I just looked and see that you posted this video 5 years ago also. GM is very protective of there computer programing and it makes it almost impossible for regular people to do repairs that should be easy. I really miss the old days when it was just wires fuses and nuts and bolts ASME and not 10mm BS.
Yeah, those days are over. Make sure you refresh the ground connection in case it is a simple fix.
What a detailed explanation and repair video. So well spoken in excellent English. I suspect that you probably are a Mechanical Engineer and of course a great Canadian. Stay out of those caves dude.
Thank you for the tip to clean the ground connection as that fixed my situation with the ABS and brake warning lights.
Thanks for the video. Way more helpful then the first 2 videos i watched. They didnt show some procedures and you went through all the steps.
Interesting job, you motivated me to try on my board. I got Captiva 2010, brake light & ABS lights on like a Christmas tree. Replaced abs sensor but didn't fix. Scanner confirm unable to communicate with abs unit and something with loss ground. So there are 2 areas to investigate.
A bad ground can produce all kinds of symptoms and is often an easy, no parts repair. I'd start there. Make sure the module has a good ground and power feed.
You are a great mechanic and teacher too. I watched it just for fun. Thanks
Very nice video, or lesson! My son bought a Saab 9-7x (AKA Chevy trailblazer), which I'm sure is very similar to a saburban. I don't think he has an ABS light, but does have a stabilitrack error. I am hoping I don't have to do those repairs, since the ABS modulator is a bear to get to! I did replace the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder, since they rotted out just below the master cylinder. Saab (or actually GM) used braided neoprene lines from the master cylinder, all the way back to the modulator. What a job that was, reaching up to get those lines off! I also replaced the steering angle sensor, and need to go out today and calibrate it and calibrate the Yaw sensor with my Tech 2, since I just got my GM card for it, and of course will select trailblazer on the menu (go figure!). Hopefully, that is all it is with stabilitrack error? Any thoughts on this?
I'm afraid I don't have any experience with that system. Usually I look to live data to search for clues, and overall the most common problem flagged by ABS is a bad wheel speed sensor. As you know, stabilitrack gets input from many, and even one bad sensor can be enough to pull the whole system down. The trend to require a reflash when new hardware is added is annoying for those of us who want to do everything.
Great vid and explanation of what was happening and how to fix. Always enjoy your work !
Exciter ring ( magnetic Ring ) may be broken. It is part of the wheel bearing and is magnetic and can only be checked by jacking up the car and checking from the back side while spinning the tire. Do a search for wheel bearing Exciter ring. Also check for worn out wheel bearings.
This is why it is worthwhile to have a scan tool that can read live data. You notice on the test drive, just after 1:00, all wheel speed sensors were sending data perfectly. So, right out the gate, you know it's not the wheel speed sensors. If one is bad, you also will know which speed sensor is delivering bad data. You are right, that would be the most common cause of an abs light, but not here.
The ABS EBCM should be high up under the hood. Another engineering marvel! It was probably the first thing that came down the assembly line and the entire vehicle was built around it.......(eyes rolled!)
1pcmedic in the 90’s they were. I got lucky on my 00 tahoe and got the EBCM off without taking the ABS unit off. The whole time cursing GM as I cut the junk out of my hand.
@@jackr7028 I have an 01 Tahoe, I can remove the torx bolts from the top and remove the module too. Poor engineering.
If GM just allowed for a little bit more access it wouldn't be such a bear to get the ABS unit out. Go figure. Nice job with the vid.
Excellent tutorial!
Great work Dave and that ABS unit looked like a bear to get to and get out. Taking your unit apart didn't seem as bad as mine. Of course, you remember I sent mine off to have it repaired and I saw that they drilled and tapped a hole to screw a bolt in from the back side to release the cover. If only I knew :) Now for those leaking brake lines and you'll be good to go.
Special thanks at 6:09 how to get the electrical connector loose. Seems there is not one electrical connector in the world that is the same as the last one. Thanks!
Got a 2002 avalanche 106k miles .. Took it in to get it serviced and they said that thing was out and said no worries it’s a common problem but I wanted that whole thing replaced yes it’s $500 for a replacement but that would be worth it because if I do what you did here and let’s say run it through a water puddle considering this part of Louisiana is all about that then I would just have to replace it anyway, but it’ll be worth it .. Because I would hate having those ABS and brake light staring in my face especially at night.. and of course peace of mind.. Love the Vape because I’m a Vape man to👍😎👍😎
When i see mechanics like this ot makes me satisfied that they aren't just putting new parts but they opening it inside and fixing the part.
I am also mechanic for trucks and by opening some parts you can get suppressed how many of them you can fix them. Just you need time for it.
Great job & video, very helpful, I have a 2000 Suburban and a 2000 Z71 pickup, the pick up has the same problem with the lights doing exactly as you indicated. Thanks very much!!!
@spelunkerd Thanks alot for all this information. Just wondering, if there needs to be a gasket laid out for in-between the module and the pump when reassembling?
There's no gasket there, and the GM service manual said not to use RTV there either. They advised care not to score the surfaces when getting them apart. I was living dangerously using a screwdriver in the video, but it worked out OK.
@@spelunkerdI appalogize, I missed the part where you said there is no RTV. I was wondering also, does the vehicle have to be taken in for the brakes to be bled?
@@paul-gn1wq You will need to bleed the brakes if you disconnect the lines as I did, but if you simply remove the EBCM module then I don't believe you need to bleed. Brake bleeding in this vehicle is very similar to normal bleeding. After bleeding I take it to a gravel road and hit the brakes hard to get the ABS motor vibrating, hoping to jar any air bubbles inside the ABS motor loose. If the brake line feels spongy after that I repeat the bleeding procedure. There is a way to skip that step if you have a scan tool that can activate the ABS motor while you are bleeding the normal way.
@@spelunkerd Ok, thanks again for all the information. Very much appreciated
Wow, very impressive home repair job it must have saved a lot of fiat currency !
The white "glue" is thermal compound paste. This should be removed and replaced. This thermal paste can be found at a computer store such as Best Buy. Thermal paste helps transfer heat from the IC chips on the board to the metal cover which acts as a heat sink keeping the IC chips cool.
Just cleaned the ground on my 1999 Silverado. Fingers crossed that'll alleviate the idiot light warnings. Will post a follow up reply to this comment if it works. NIce content, thanks for the info!
Explain nicely & done the repair well.
Thank you.
I was thinking the same thing about the daft screws, show them the bin and install normal ones :-D.
I have a hate for all the odd scews/bolts being used now, 1/4 hex headed screws would have been much simpler to remove, but that's me, im old tech lol :-D.
That didn't look to easy to remove, pity they didn't put the whole thing under the hood.
I did wonder if the wheel speed sensors were all ok, but turning the car off then on would not clear a faulty sensor, so ignore my jibbering lol.
I know almost zero about the subject, but i always enjoy the mental gymnastics that you create in my grey matter :-).
Great video, it was helpful and enabled me to successfully complete my repair! Thank you!
thanks, very well done.....but shouldn't you put some fresh thermally conducting compound on those large pads that use the cover as a heat sink ?
Good point. It was mostly still there, but dry.
This guy is brilliant.
What a kind remark, thank you.
I second that. It should go without saying, but I'm glad you said it.
Wow; nice, always waiting for the next dish from your out of this world channel. I have the same temperament as yourself actually but when I see work like this I get a little excited. You'll have to pardon me on that one. ;) ..
Thank you!
If you want to activated the abs, you just need to apply the brakes on a washboard, gravel or pavement
Inline tube supplies full brakeline kits that are prebent and flared just like factory, they are available also in stainless steel
Great video. Just wondering if an impact driver could have helped? The type that you use with a hammer and it turns your driver a little with each strike of the hammer.
Yeah, those things are underappreciated, though in this case there wasn't enough room to get the tool into the confined space. No room to swing a hammer for sure. Thanks for stopping by!
Or... Using penetrating fluid spray before trying to undo to the screws... ;)
I think there are potentially three different modules made by three different companies on these cars, and in the case of at least one of those the edge of the pcb runs right along the seam (in other words, the pcb is on the same plane as the rtv'ed seam)... so you can run into a lot more than just the circuit board standoffs with your x-acto knife. To make matters worse, in spots where they used too much sealant it can catch the edge of the board as you separate the case, so if that happens on a corner it's very easy to crack the circuit board as you pull the top off.
It is "always" good to take a pic and clean out every torx bolt before trying to remove it...that way you clean out the dirt and rust and have a better grip to put your torx driver into lessening the change of a stripped bolt.
You must have a lot of patience.
I would have sold that GM electronic puzzle and bought a Toyota.
Nice video and explanation.
chicken and toyota is not American
You've got patience, not bad for a hobbyist
Thanks, man!
I too have patience, I just need more skills 😂 and its really hard when you don't have a personal work space
Ta Da, another in an ever popular series.
Lead free what a joy
Not used in air craft for this reason
Got to love tin whiskers.
but you maybe coud get a lerning disibility.
It's a button head Allen. Take a flat punch and reflaten the head a little. The driver will bite. Or take a pair of five grips and grab the head on the side .
Great video. Thank you and greetings from Portugal.
Ty. I think I found the problem, the brake line was not feeding back, bad brake hose
May be helping my buddy with his '02 Tahoe 4wd Z71 soon which has brake fluid leaking out in front of the rear left tire below the back door. He just wants to get it fixed so he can sell it since it's sat like this for over 18 months. What would you recommend for fixing it quickly (BUT safely)? Are there brake line kits out there that are easy to install (yet SAFE)? It also has the ABS light on and the code is C0267 which is something to do with the pump motor circuit? I hotwired the pump motor and it works. Do you know what that code could mean for his particular truck? The EBCM? Fantastic job with your video.👍
The brake leak sounds a lot like the same failure point as mine. I would replace the entire line going to the rear wheels, in my vehicle the rear wheel line splits into two so a single line feeds both. Newer vehicles may have individual lines, I don't know about yours. Some guys, notoriously Scotty Kilmer, would replace just the bad segment and make two unions, however his technique is badly flawed and illegal in many states. You don't want to sell a vehicle that may make you liable if something happens later. There are flare kits to correctly replace a segment but access is so poor it is probably easier just to replace the entire line and be done with it. As far as the ABS code goes, I am not sure, it could be the same issue as I showed. Fixing the ABS is a huge amount of work for a vehicle you're flipping, probably not worth it in most vehicles of this vintage. I would start with the dealer repair manual, I use Alldatadiy, and if it looks like the EBCM I would refresh the ground as I showed at the beginning. You could start by checking the wheel speed sensors to be sure they are each sending a signal to the pcm. Good luck!
Hello. So I tried to hook a trailer up to my 2002 Chevy avalanche and none of the lights are working, it's not a fuse, the lights on the trailer work just fine, could it be the brake and abs lights issue not allowing the trailer lights to function?
That wouldn't be very common. A more likely diagnosis would be lack of power or ground in the connector. You'll need a multimeter and patience. Look for what is missing. Corrosion and damage to wires is very common at that point.
I have an 04 yukon that has its brake light, abs light and TC light coming on at once. Every two mins while driving down the highway it comes on and goes away. I had the abs module rebuilt a few months ago only for the issue to resurface a few weeks later. $300 for a new module is nuts!!
Rebuilt modules installed by professionals usually come with a warranty, and a few months is likely within that time limit. I would contact the pro who installed it, first. If you have no warranty, I would check the common things, especially the ground connection which can present in the same way. To be sure of the ground, you could put a nut on the back of the ground stud after cleaning it, if yours is mounted the same way mine was. Also clean the battery connections, and the battery to engine/chassis connections, for the same reason. You may end up following the path I used in this vehicle. Mine is still going strong, no issues at all.
spelunkerd I will definitely check the ground. And that’s very true about the warranty. Maybe I’ll give it a shot if all else fails. Thanks!!
Questions: are you ritired already? If yes, can a working person still do this great job like you? Thank you for the very informative videos.
Yup, retired, I was never a pro mechanic. I don't know if this Suburban would have been worth fixing by a pro, that brake leak could have been a terminal event. Thanks for the feedback!
spelunkerd thanks for replying. I think I was not clear with my question. I ment can a diyer get to a great level of work or I need to wait to be retired to have the time. Just to hear your thoughts about it.
Thanks.
Yeah, I was doing these even before retirement, but learning the video and audio skills is a time consuming process, punctuated by many errors. Most people don't have the patience or free time to commit to that. I think what makes many shy away from posting videos is fear of abuse from viewers, and every TH-cam author will have a handful of those sarcastic critics. Very few critics give back to the TH-cam community except as an egocentric swipe at the world. I applaud anybody who is willing to put themselves out there in an effort to really give back to the community in general. Go for it!
When I face a repair around the home, the first thing I do is go to the 'net to look for what is out there. If I find a video that explains it all better than I could, I wouldn't bother making a video since I will never get many views, unless I can make it onto the first page of a typical Google search. However often you can find enough detail you can pull a helpful video together into a unique resource for those who face the same problem, if only because you might be able to explain it a little better. The real golden treasure is when professionals drop by and offer more detail than you have uncovered, making the thread even more valuable to those who visit. Ultimately newer videos that are better than yours will surface, eclipsing your effort. That kind of competition makes us all better, it's what is so great about this platform.
spelunkerd thank you.
i have same issue - Such a bad spot for the abs modual. does all the brake fluid drain out - and what kind of bleed needs to be done after. ? i was thinking cutting a panel from above and make an access hatch.
When ABS hit the market I wondered if bleeding would be more complex. Usually not, most bleed fine. To be sure, professionals without access to proprietary scan tools will sometimes bleed, then drive to a gravel road, jam on the brakes to activate the ABS motor a couple of times. If the pedal is soft after that, bleed again. Alternatively if you have a scan tool you can use to activate the ABS, you bleed normally, then activate the ABS electronically, then bleed again. The new obstacle is now electronic parking brakes, that may require a scan tool to back up the slave cylinder so rotors can come off.
Really enjoy your videos sir. Thx 👍
Thank you, Dylan.
Dave
I drive an S-10. My access is from the top. I have the same lights on almost all the time (ABS and parking brake) When I get the chance I will make this repair. BTW, when the ABS light is on, it will not work and your brakes will lock up!
Go for the ground connection first, if it is similar to mine throw a nut on the back to eliminate that possibility completely. You might find more info in a dedicated dealer repair manual for your truck. Many things will cause that light to go on, so checking the individual wheel sensors is pretty important since a bad tone ring or wheel sensor may look the same. Wheel sensors go bad all the time, usually coupled with a code that points to the bad wheel. Good luck!
I have a 2001 Blazer. Sometimes the ABS Brake lite comes on and then I shut off the motor and tap the brake a few times and it goes off. Can you give me an idea what's wrong? Thank you so much.
Overall the most common cause is a failing wheel speed sensor, but guessing isn't necessary or appropriate. Notice that I used my scan tool to see all the wheel speed sensors are working in this vehicle. If you want to try making the diagnosis yourself then you'll need access to a scan tool that can show live data. Auto parts stores will sometimes lend those out, or you can buy one for about a hundred dollars. Alternatively you can pay a shop to make the diagnosis for you. If it is a wheel speed sensor, the fix isn't usually too expensive.
@@spelunkerd Thanks:-)
Very interesting video. A+
Thank you for posting this. I am dealing with the same problem in my Impala. Could you make a video detailing how to remove the EBCM, please. I will appreciate it a lot.
Even within the GM product line, every vehicle is different. You can find the EBCM by tracing brake lines from the MC. If you're lucky the EBCM will be in the engine compartment where it is easier to get at. The diagnostic steps I showed are important, you need to be sure it is not just a bad wheel sensor or tone ring that would be much easier to deal with (more common overall). Also, refresh the EBCM ground wire if you have a similar intermittent presentation before doing anything more. For sure, use a scan tool to document the diagnostic codes. You can get a dealer repair manual online, I use alldatadiy, though mitchelldiy is also available. The most difficult step is to decide whether you are up to the challenge, since repairs like this often lead to difficulties that require extra tools and a versatile skill set. An attempt that fails can lead to problems that are much more expensive than you started with, so there is some risk to consider. If in doubt about the diagnosis, a visit to a pro shop for diagnosis might be a good investment. Good luck!
I changed a broken brake line on my 2006 Tahoe and now the ABS light and brake light won't turn off. Brakes working great, what do you think it is? I appreciate any intel.
Before getting too worried, I'd check the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir, then clear the codes by disconnecting the negative pole of the battery for a minute, then reconnect. I wonder if the system detected a low fluid level, triggering the code, requiring a reset. If that doesn't work, I'd carefully find a gravel road, roll the car at about 20mph, and slam on the brake to see if the abs motor will fire off. Then I'd return to the shop, raise the rear wheels, get somebody to press on the brake, then with brake applied, try to spin each of the rear wheels to be sure the rear brakes work. Sometimes drums require adjustment, and sometimes rebleeding is required after activating the abs. Then I'd slide under the car and check the wiring to the abs unit, to be sure you didn't accidentally disrupt wiring. Pay special attention to the wiring to each wheel speed sensor, make sure you didn't accidentally disconnect one when you bled brakes, carefully check out the ground to the abs. Then I'd go to the fuse box and verify that no fuses are blown. I did a recent Subaru video showing that a simple blown brake light fuse can cause what you describe. Failing all of that, I would go to a scan tool with live data to verify that each wheel speed sensor is working, and I'd read the codes for more direction. Good luck!
@@spelunkerd Thanks I'm disk breaks all around so disconnecting the ground sounds promising as the master cylinder did empty out, Thanks I will get back to you tomorrow.
@@112223alex In the 'old days', pre 1995, we had a proportioning valve that would feed pressure to two separate systems, so that if pressure dropped in one, the valve would snap over a Y-intersection and still deliver pressure to the other two wheels. That valve required a manual reset after a depressurization event, which was as simple as sliding the valve to midline with a sharp instrument. Your clue was no brakes in the rear (or front) after bleeding. In the ABS days those valves have been replaced by the ABS, but I presume it does the same thing automatically. The dealers repair manual might offer other ideas or options for you. I subscribe to alldatadiy to get a copy of what professional mechanics have. It's worth a look if you are still coming up empty. When ABS hit the market, we wondered if the ABS might cause difficult bleeding by creating a pocket of air inside the ABS. It turned out most of the time they would still bleed normally. Practically, you want to activate the abs after bleeding to release any air that might be trapped inside the abs, then bleed again.
What's the part number that you worked on please? Thanks
You're a better man than I, Gunga Din.
Mine lasted a little over a year and light is back on. Not sure if I should purchase a remanufactured one from Rock Auto.
Double check that ground connection, live wheel speed sensor output, connectors, and your codes to be sure it isn't something else. To be thorough most guys would verify good power and ground at the connectors. Mine is still going strong but as you say your other option is to replace it. I have no experience with companies who do that. If your wheel diameter is not stock you may need a reflash. Good luck!
@@spelunkerd awesome, I will take a look again. Wheel diameter is still stock. My 2001 suburban has 375k all original miles and has many issues now. It would cost me more to fix everything than what's it's worth but it has a lot of sentimental value. Thanks for the reply, take care.
Excellent repair and video of a very common problem. Thank you
Could you have removed the PC board from that housing if you needed to? I've seen several videos on this repair and obviously poorly soldered connections are a common source of trouble with these modules,. But there is another source of trouble that could cause problems: defective electrolytic capacitors. These components are found in nearly anything electronic and these modules would be no exception. In the harsh environment of a vehicle their lifespan is compromised. After being subjected to the extremes of temperature and humidity over several years in a vehicle they will fail and cause faults. But to replace them the circuit board has to be removed completely. It looks like this module has been "potted," making board removal impossible. Was that what you found in your part?
I didn't find screws holding that board in place, and I wondered if I might break it if I aggressively tried to remove it. Undoubtedly it does come off but I wasn't sure how it was held on so I stopped there. The connection to the solenoids is there as well and I wondered if I might mess those up with my clumsy meat hooks. You make good points about bad caps in this vintage of electronics. Thankfully in this case my repair was all that was needed, and in fact I drove the vehicle yesterday, 408,000 km on the clock so far. I haven't needed to do any ABS repairs since this video.
The copper nickel brake line on a roll is pretty easy to form, if you don’t want to wait for parts.
Good point, I actually got a length of Nicopp line in case all of the pre-made segments don't fit. It's hard to beat the price of a full kit, including fittings and the saving on labor. We'll see how it works.
spelunkerd You’re right on the labor. Did this a couple years ago, and remember some swearing.
Great video. Thanks.
So do you know if it's a fact that if u chose to just drive with out ABS, will the pump continue to run and if so is that a bad thing, to let the pump run?
The ABS only kicks in when you skid, like on a gravel road when the wheels lock up. It isn't a normal driving experience and it won't cause problems even if it somehow activated with a bad control unit. I don't think it would ever activate if the control unit was bad, in my case the control unit was intermittently not working. You can hear it activate, you get a humming, vibrating sound for a few seconds when the ABS is working. Not a bad thing at all, though if it was stuck on, the motor wouldn't survive more than a few minutes.
I was thinking of swapping to
Dot5 as I heard it not suppose to be corrosive!?
Very interesting and helpful video. Many thanks to you. Keep up the good work man. I have a question.
Where the EBCM is located on a Chevy impala 2003? I have that ABS light on for months. After I spent more than $500 at the dealer to fix it, they said that I have to change the EBCM. Any help on this, I will appreciate it. Thanks again.
The resource I use is Alldatadiy, which gives you the dealer repair manual and all TSBs for a small fee. But to answer your question without that, you could trace the brake lines from the MC , they will lead you right to the abs motor. The EBCM will be very close to the abs motor.
spelunkerd Thank you so very much. I will follow your instructions. Many appreciations for the prompt reply.
I have abs light on, I scanned it but say unable to communicate with module, will soldering fix this ?
Possibly, but the standard approach is to be sure that the module is getting power and ground and that communication pathways are intact. This problem I worked up is a fairly well known problem for the GM ABS module in this generation of truck, so I approached it with that background in mind. Good luck!
@@spelunkerd Same ABS Light on which went out but went back on after 10 minutes usually its on steady . No communication to Scanner .. why not just get another guaranteed wrecking yard ABS and replace it . My 02 venture is in Engine compartment I will check for bad ground .
@@oldtimedrumcorps Yes, with no comm to module, check power and ground, then go for the module if the comm wiring seems to be intact. Noise on the ground wire can throw the code, but I don't remember lack of comm. I would refresh that ground connection in any case. I read somewhere that the new module may require a reflash if tire size is different, hopefully the new module and your PCM will talk nice to each other. Online you can find rebuilt modules, they may offer a core refund.
Is there a way to dissable the ABS system WITHOUT pulling the 60amp fuse under hood? Doing so also illuminates the "brake" light on the dash. Curious if anyone here knows. Also pulling the harness at the pump also illuminates the "brake" light as well
That's a good question, I don't know. I can think of many reasons a manufacturer would design the system to not easily do that, if only to reliably show the driver that the ABS unit is not active. Unscrupulous sellers have been know to remove warning lights from behind the dash, but doing that leaves a red flag for investigators, with legal responsibilities that may follow. You are not required to have ABS, many cars are still on the road with no ABS at all. Concealing the evidence seems like an offside ploy.
Where do we send the ABS Module (the whole thing or just the circuit board??) to be rebuilt?? Thank You!
I have no experience with that, since what I did fixed the problem. Perhaps somebody else will chime in, I'd try a search engine and maybe Ebay.
Do you need to bleed the brakes after this process?
When the lights are on the ABS will NOT work. I locked my wheels up during a panick brake. Can I remove the electrical unit with the hydraulic block in place? It’s a pain to bleed through GM ABS blocks and want to avoid that if possible.
Yes, the preferred method is to just remove the EBCM, leaving the ABS motor and brake lines in place, if you can get those torx screws undone. Dealers manual procedure describes removing the neg pole of battery, remove the bolts holding the bracket in place to give yourself about an inch more clearance above, and hope you can get those screws undone. I hope you have more success than I did with that, this old car is rusted everywhere. If this unit fails again it should be a little easier to remove because the screws won't have had 18 years to seize up.
spelunkerd thank you! I have a Florida truck so not rust issues here
Buen trabajo amigo 👍
So mine comes on and turns off some days it'll stay off but no more than 2-3 is this the same problem as the one in the video?
It may be, but you need a scan tool to show that a more common problem of wheel speed sensor failure is not the issue. Without a scan tool, I don't think I would attempt this repair.
another excellent video
Thank, Nick.
Dave
Good job sir
Impact screwdrivers are nice too for stuck screws..m
This is Jack Palaces kid brother, I’m sure!
how do I get the air out of the system after?
In this vehicle bleeding brake lines is done the same way it has always been done. The one recommended extra step is to bleed the ABS, which can be done with a scan tool or by simply driving to a gravel road and doing a hard stop from about 15 mph a couple of times, then repeat the bleed. One advantage of having the ABS unit so low down is the way trapped air gets mostly bled out automatically, by gravity.
TH-camrs, remember don't drive the car until the break lines are replaced, brake fluid refilled and bled, and you have the wheels remounted and air pressure checked. Happy motoring.
Wise advice! Thanks for watching, Don.
Dave
I knew that one of the safety police would soon come by to comment on the project being interrupted half way through and the inherent dangers that would present, so I had to get in there first to forestall that :-)
If I replace my abs module do I have to reprogram it?
Good question, I don't know for sure. I believe they are programmed with an eye to wheel size, so if your wheels are a different diameter compared to the wheels of the donor vehicle, there will be a mismatch. However I don't know if that will be enough to trigger an error code or enough to cause a performance decline. Presumably it also depends on the make and model year.
will the abs caus the brakes to lock up
Not normally. When there is a fault detected by the computer, the system is shut down completely, reverting to the old style brakes that we had before the ABS revolution. The one exception to that general rule of thumb was a problem experienced about ten years ago, when one of the manufacturers had a wheel sensor that gave spurious readings at low rpm. it turned out to be a bad electrical connector at the tone ring. I don't remember which manufacturer that was, GM? The abs would trip at low vehicle speed, but it was more of an annoyance than a cause of crashes.
I found my fuel pump relay was put in backwards. After cleaning grounds. If it’s in backwards or upside down lettering on top of relay. it looses a permanent ground for relay. I was shocked that’s all I did. 02 Tahoe 175k miles.
Also two other relays backwards. Flipped all 3 around and had no other issues. Seems to run better.
Interesting story. Years ago, I scratched my head when I found many relays, in multiple cars, that seem to be upside down in the fuse box. Then I realized that many relays (not all) are designed to work just as well when placed upside down, a kind of 'plaindrome' effect caused by symmetry of design. Engineers realized that rather than building chirality into the plug, all they need to do is create cross-ways symmetry. So, rectangular plugs connect to the pole of the opposite corner, on each side. Because it is rectangular you can't mix signal side with power/switch side (also blade orientation builds that in). After all, where those connections go is hardwired into the fuse box, and most five pin relays can only physically go in one way. I'd be checking each of those spade connections for corrosion. Or, maybe the relay didn't belong where is was placed.
@@spelunkerd
I had heard it didn’t matter how relays went in fuse box, so I figured as long as they lined up and fit correctly I would just turn relays around to see? Both ABS and Brake lights come on after a bump in the road or just applying break pedal. The dreaded solder connection repair was in my near future. But after turning 3 of the same type relays around, they haven’t come back on. Over 100 miles so far? Hopefully it helps someone else?
Put a piece of tape over it and no more abs light diagnosis a hammer also why did they put the abs controller under truck ?
I like that option, it extinguishes glare without unethically concealing anything to others.
Thank you soooooo very much
how much does it cost to repair a Silverado 2000
Gee, I don't know, it depends on what is wrong. As you see I replaced all the lines and fixed the module, but if only the module is bad it might be a lot less. Also I had the difficulty of not being able to easily remove the EBCM because of stripped screws, which led to a lot more work. The EBCM part itself is a couple hundred dollars just for a rebuilt option. If they did it the same way I did, including the leaking brake line, I'll guess there would be about 6-8 hours of shop time, plus parts. If they only fixed a leaking brake line, less time and fewer parts. You could ask a pro for a quote. In old vehicles like this, it wouldn't take much to exceed the resale value of the car. If only the EBCM is the problem, then you're dealing with a warning light and lack of ABS. Some would continue driving, though there is a liability angle if an accident happens. Many vehicles don't have ABS at all, and they are still legal on the road today.
you one smart man !
Not so smart, I am humbled every day. Thanks anyway for your kind words.
I like the good old days.. none of Micky mouse stuffed ABS (AKA,🔥💵A$$/Bull/Shit) for ABS ahhhhhh