SRAM DUB Bottom Bracket and Crankset Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ส.ค. 2019
- SRAM DUB Bottom Bracket and Crankset Installation.
Installing a press fit bottom bracket can be a little intimidating in comparison to the ease of a threaded BB.
With this video I hope to show just how quick and easy it can be done by anyone.
I also hope that some of my past mistakes with the DUB PF92 can be easily avoided.
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/ @pedalingdave - กีฬา
Man ... this was better than the official SRAM guide. Thanks alot. Everyone make SURE you don't mix left / right side BB cups. The spindle is conical !
Thanks for the kind words!
Seems the industry is largely moving away from press fit at the moment.
That's a welcome change in my opinion! Much simpler
Hands down best guide on youtube, thanks! Always a pleasure to hear a well-spoken Southern man who understands millimeters!
I appreciate the kind words! Thanks for watching👍
I switched to marine grease when my last tube of park polylube ran out this past winter. I swear everything has moved smoother and faster with the marine grease. I am also convinced park high performance grease is just repackaged marine grease.
Great job on the install.
Thanks. There isn't anything "magical" when it comes to typical bike bearings and bb cups.
Specialty grease has its place in certain circumstances, but for most applications it isnt necessary. IMO of course.
Disclaimer: Carbon parts are another thing altogether and do need specialty grease.
Thanks for the vid Dave! Very helpful
I had to smile when I watched this as I fitted one of these last August and ended up dislodging both blue seals! I think I also over tightened the preload thing, which is probably why I am having to replace it just seven months later. Great video. 👍Just wish I'd watched it last year 😊
Man, that's rough! Thank for watching all the same!
Man, thanks a lot for this video. It put me at ease because I was pretty nervous about screwing it up. I gotta say that it was pretty easy after this... but getting the old BB out was a fight to remember. Even with the correct BB tool I still had to beat the bike with a mallet.
That's my least favorite thing about press fit. Really have to mean it to drive them out at times.
Glad the vid helped!
very very helpful! You are the only one talking about the pain in the ass regarding the blue joint! Thx for your video
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it
thank for the very detailed install video, i love the improvisation :)
Thanks Orlando!
Thanks so much for the vid, im getting ready to replace my bb on my stumpjumper
You're very welcome!
If you thumbs down a tutorial video, it should be a requirement that you comment why! Good video man!
Perfect! Answered all my questions.
🙌
Thank you, very clear instructions.
My pleasure! I'm glad you found it helpful.
Very useful video
Thank you very much
very helpful, thank you!
Awesome to hear! Helping is always the goal!
I found the same problem that no one is including drifts that fit DUB in their kits. I spent 5 minutes in Tinkercad and made up a nice drift that fits perfectly which I 3D printed. I also made a drift to fit the BB shell itself to avoid scratching painted carbon. The plastic has held up perfectly so far, I am sure in a shop it would eventually break but for home purposes the 3D printed PLA plastic holds up just fine.
Very nice!
Thank you Mauro! 🍻
Great video Dave. I am about to attempt the same job on my 2019 trek slash 8 so watching you do it on a Trek has made it even more helpful for me. Glad you mentioned the spacers as i got a 4.5mm and a 2mm spacer with my bottom bracket and didn’t know how i was meant to use them. Was thinking they went inside the bottom bracket to adjust for different width bottom brackets. Thanks heaps Jason
Glad to have helped you out Jason!
🍻
nice video
😎 thanks!
Thanks for the video. I’m an hour plus into trying to get the blue oring back in. Any tips are welcomed!
New bike. Well, probably just a new BB really.
Those O rings are darned near impossible to get back correctly.
Awesome
Different cups but the cranks fit on & pre load just like Race Face.
Dumb that Wheels Manufacturing site doesn't make the Dub drift sizes more obvious. I couldn't tell whether the standard drifts that came with the tool would fit until received. They don't. Ordered the 29 x 42mm for sixteen bucks , looks like a week wait. Thanks for the video!
Same for me. Thought it was included but nope!
Thinking the wheels drift was made well before the dub standard came out maybe
cheers for the video and time taken to make it. i'm doing exactly the same on my carbon Scott Spark. Fitted last night i think one cup went in wonky and thus, was still creaking on riding. So I attempted to remove them so i could refit but ended up damaging one of the cups so now have to buy another! My press was a simple bolt washers so wasn't seated well. Wonder if Wheels Manufacturing have a DUB drift now to ensure they sit inside the cup to aid centering?! Thanks again!
I'm pretty sure a drift is available for that BB size. I remember looking them up when I made the video.
@@PedalingDave hey, yes they do but it seems to be sold out everywhere here in the UK and it's about 40+ USD to ship over! so, like you i'll improvise! At least the 41mm drift will centre the bolt on the non-pressing side. Cheers!
Hey Dave thanks for the video. I have the same bike and have just swapped out the dub bottom bracket. Your video was helpful although as a newbie to MTB DIY bike repairs I still found it difficult. Perhaps making my own tools to punch out the BB and also reinstall it didn't help but in the end they worked fine. Do you have a video on tuning the gears?
Sorry Martin, I've not done a video on gears or adjusting them.
Which tool did you use to remove it?
Hey Dave, thanks for the video. I have to replace the DUB bottom bracket on my Devinci and was wondering what tool you used to remove the old one. Thanks again.
*Please read this whole reply. If you're reusing the same BB you'll need a different tool than what I used*
At the time, I was replacing my original Sram GXP BB for the DUB.
The tool I used was for the GXP (park tool bbt 90.3).
Later when I was replacing the DUB BB after trying to service the DUB bearings, I had to bend the park tools "wings" to work on the DUB. This isn't the right sized tool for the job and I damaged the bearings as I removed them. Didn't matter to me cause I had a *new BB going back in*.
The short version: I don't yet know what specific tool is needed to remove the DUB without damage...
@@PedalingDave Ok thanks Dave I appreciate the help. I will have to replace the B/B and bearings and have ordered a tool similar to the Park but there doesn't look to be much of a lip for the tool to engage on the DUB B/B. I'll search around to see if there is a purpose DUB removal tool. Just don't want to mess up my frame. Keep up the good work.
So in case of pressfit there is no chance to replace the bearings in those press in cups? Or is it like a custom made wide outer race bearing with oring seal on the inside to seal against the axle?
I dont believe there is a way to easily replace just the bearing.
The bearings are the largest part so probably not much of a cost savings anyways.
I accidentally removed the plastic seal thing on an old set and wasnt able to get it back on without it breaking.
The little O ring inside is tiny but I assume it's to keep contaminants out.
In the end, replacing the whole BB is cheap and easy. I'd rather just repack them with grease but that didnt work out...at least for me.
Right, I also repack the bearings, with my old 2016 Trek Stache PF I put in a 24mm bearing bb from Wheels Mfg it was the thread together type and I was able to pop the bearings out of the Wheels Mfg bb cups, to get that kind of simple thing back on the 2021 Trek Fuel EX7 I now have I'm thinking seriously about going a Shimano crankset so I can be way far away from DUB
Hi Dave, great video, what kind of rear hub ist sounding this way? Cheers Vlabein
Thanks!
Project 321 are the hubs I'm running
I have the same BB, and the blue rubber seal fell out when I was swapping cranks. I didn't know where it fell from, so I put the new crank on without reinstalling it. Obviously, not ideal, but will it work? I need to replace the BB anyway, so I'm not terribly concerned if the only thing that seal does is help keep grime out of the bearings. Thoughts?
As far as I can tell, you're right. It seals out dirt, grime, and moisture.
I can't say how important/effective it truly is or isn't, but I would install and run it all the same, just as you did.
Thanks for your video.
I have old sram gxp and wanting to get PF92 and a new Sram Eagle Gx dub crankset but I thought I need to get longer spindle crankset. Normal GX crankset will fit into PF92?
So, if you want a new crankset and want to go with the SRAM DUB, you'll need to know your *rear hub* spacing.
Example, If it's Boost spacing (148mm), you'll need a DUB crankset specific to Boost and a PF92 DUB bb.
DUB has a different *diameter* spindle than GXP,
@@PedalingDave Thanks. My bike's rear hub is 148mm.
1st my thought was PF92 is too long to fit eagle dub crankset.
I have other bike that I installed Sram English BSA BB with eagle NX crankset and BB is only 73mm long I think and PF92 is longer than that so I thought normal sram dub spindle is not long enough.
Anyway thanks for your reply.
I am going to order one very soon
I appreciate your help
Nice, super helpful video. Those plastic preloaders are quite possibly the worst design of anything ever. I know you can buy machined ones for 4 million quid, but they should be metal to begin with. Anyway, thanks!
It would be nice if they were alloy right from the factory
Hi Dave. I did this and the bearings have gone that tight. They cranks don't spin. Help please!
It's hard to diagnose without seeing it. Did you put the spacer on the drive side?
If you put a spacer on the non drive side and tightened the crank down, that can happen.
Spacer on both sides
Why do you tap the BB with a mallet on the drive side? Is this a general thing or specific to press fit? My bottom bracket started making a faint but noticeable clicking sound last time I took the crank arm off ...
Although I torqued it down, I did the mallet thing to try and ensure that the crank assembly was all the way in and "seated".
The bearing preload on the none side has to be threaded in till it touches, and so I do this to kinda help ensure the drive side is fully inserted...forcing the non drive side to be fully extended out.
Does that make sense or did I just talk in a circle? Let me know if I need to make it clearer.
As for your crank, I'd start by removing the arm, greasing, and reinstalling.
@@PedalingDave thanks for the help. I was able to track down the clicking and fixed it. It wasn't the bottom bracket but the saddle rail clamp xD ... It was coming from the same direction sitting on the bike. I'm glad it's gone and such a benign issue
I thought i heard not to use grease on carbon frames....something like threadlock instead???
This install was on an aluminum frame.
For carbon BB's here is a list of products listed by Wheels MFG. wheelsmfg.com/carbon-bike-grease
Always consult the bikes manufacturer for what they reccomend.
Hello. I was cleaning this piece. In the whole process I only saw a blue ring. I have doubt if it is only one or there are two and I lost one.
I believe each side of the BB has one but I'm not 100% positive on that tbh.
What tool have you used to tighten the DUB Bottom Bracket?. Thx.
You mean for a threaded bottom bracket I'm assuming?
I believe its Park Tool BBT-79
What I can’t get my head around is why removing and regressing when trying to eliminate play is necessary. Surely loading with more grease is pointless as it migrates over time and any play will return.
When i put 54nM on it there ist nothing spinnig anymore... :/
Be sure that the spacers are on and are installed on the correct side.
Apart from that, I'm not sure what is going on there
May i know what size of that sram dub bottom bracket? Thanks
Ita a PF92. Also referred to as BB92
Hey bud, what size chain ring you have. Seems a 32 will not fit the frame on the trek fuel ex. I am going to have to go with a 30 I found out. This video is awesome for newbies man.
Thanks for watching!
My chainring is 32 tooth.
@@PedalingDave found out I had a 6mm offset and need a 3mm to fit the frame. Thanks for the input
No problem and glad you got it sorted out!
Hi ,are you thing os possible swap pressfit for bsa
I havent personally looked into it but I believe there are kits that make that possible...not for sure though
Good video but you don't need that much grease on the cups or spindle - because of the tight fit nearly all of it gets scraped right off anyway.
Why do they never show what type of grease is used to install press fit on a carbon frame?
This bike is aluminum and I've never had to press fit a BB into a carbon frame.
That said, Wheels MFG has an extensive list you can choose from.
wheelsmfg.com/carbon-bike-grease
How good is that bottom bracket? does it creak? I bought a bike with that bottom bracket without knowing...
I've had no issues with creaking at all, and have had the bike for 3 years now.
The original BB never creaked, and I swapped it to DUB when I went with shorter cranks. No creaks with it either.
@@PedalingDave Thanks, I hope mine goes well also
I hope so.
Press fit can be prone to creaks but really, they are easy to remove, lube, and reinstall when necessary with only a couple pretty affordable tools!
are you sure it’s a 2mm spacer my bb didn’t come with a 2mm...the smallest it came with is 4.5mm
In my case, yes, I needed a 2mm.
Is your BB threaded (bsa)? If so it might take a 4.5.
Sram has charts available on their website outlining what spacers are necessary for the different BB types.
Edit to add, if you purchased the correct BB size for your bike, it should have what you need which sounds like the 4.5mm spacer.
Google "dub bottom bracket spacer chart" and you should find what you're needing.
Hay again
What the crankset name and size you use?
165mm , 170mm or 175mm
Does the size matter?
On both my Trek Remedy and Ibis HD5 I use 165mm GX Eagle cranks.
Primarily due to modern bikes having a low bottom bracket height, I got a *lot* of pedal strikes.
This made a world of difference in that regard and also allows quicker pedaling out of corners.
Many people worry about losing pedaling efficiency with shorter cranks but I think it's a non issue.
If any pedaling efficiency is actually lost, it's on the smallest of levels and isn't noticable, in my personal opinion.
Thanks for watching!
@@PedalingDave appreciate alot , your answer is so crystal clear🙏🙏
Hope you all the best, great job✌️☺️
@@k7_studio525 glad I could help man. Have a happy new year!
@@PedalingDave oh, happy new year to you too✌️☺️
Yours ever creaked after a while? Never owned a PF BB until now so I’m just curious about it. Nice video BTW and thanks.
I have friends with trek/pf bb that have.
Mine never ever creaked.
Mine so far is good. Thanks
This guy: "tiger tanks two of them"
Won't the scratches cause the creak?
Not necessarily, but def possible.
Tem como fazer manutenção nesse movimento central?
I tried to translate the question but am not sure what you're asking. So sorry!
Hay una forma de hacer el mantenimiento de este movimiento central presfit BB92
¿Español?
Is there a way to maintain this presfit BB92 core movement
Spanish?
@@fabricioferraz7342 core movement? Please elaborate if possible.
Do you have a video explaining the maintenance?
I don't know if anyone can help.me, however, I have a 73 DUB 30mm spindle BSA Bottom bracket fitted to a boost bike.
After reading the manuals as to what spacers should be fitted...I'm at a loss.
There's an older 2020 instruction manual with 2 categories:
• MTB
• Super Boost
This manual suggests I only need a 4.5mm spacer ouside drive side...cool.
I've revisited the situation to double check though following the new year, and it seems there a new manual whereby there's a new category.
There's now:
• MTB config
• Wide MTB config
• Super Boost config
Should I be using the MTB Wide config...is that SRAMs way of indicating this is to be used with the MTB Boost standard??
MTB Wide is suggesting that I need a 3mm spacer outside left and a 7.5mm outside right....thing is, I don't appear to have a 7.5mm spacer!? 🤔
Should I use the new config or should I just stick to the original 'MTB' config?
Cheers for any feedback anyone may have!
Wow, always new standards to figure out.
If your rear axle 157mm, then you would use the super boost setup.
Wide, I can only assume, is probably for boost which is 148mm.
Mtb config...I *suppose* that could be the 135mm and/or 142.. hub spacing.
Without knowing any of this for sure, I would definitely advise consulting your local shop mechanic.
@@PedalingDave I've found a Worldwide Cyclery article online (not TH-cam) which is suggesting they're fitting it using a 4.5mm spacing only.
That was to a Santa Cruz Blur...which, when looked up has a 12x148 rear axle wheel.
I figure, therefore, that I should use a 4.5mm spacer only.
Thing is SRAM is now so uncontactable that it's hard to find an address to contact them at.
Think I've found one now though...asking them now...fingers crossed! 😅
@@weedfreer @Worldwide Cyclery is a fantastic resource! I know you can call and they are very helpful!
@@PedalingDave maybe a little pricey to call from the UK though 😬
Oh! True, true!
In that case I would email!
Ok, how do you remove it then?
I used one of Parks missle tools.
I couldn't find a dub specific version so the old BB did take some damage upon removal.
@@PedalingDave is there even a dub specific version?
@@PedalingDave i am facing creaking issues and would like to remove it to put some Loctite. no wish to damage it since the bike s new.
Is that a remedy?
Yes. Remedy 8
Pedaling Dave okay
thankyou
А где по русски это все увидеть?
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