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Just got done changing the crank position sensor on a 2013 Sahara Jeep. No codes, had died while running down the highway 4 times in the last 3 weeks.Thought it might be fuel pump/filter, changed sensor, no more skipping, dyeing or power loss. Easy $40.00 dollar fix compared to a $900.00 fuel pimp. Thanks for all the enlightning information.
I watched this video earlier today and as luck would have it i ran across a car that was exhibiting the same symptoms in this video and after running it on a scan tool it was the crank sensor. Thanks for the great video.
I had just fixed a 2014 jeep that had sensor intermittently stalling the car. It had NO LIGHTS, NO OTHER SYMPTOMS ASSIOATED WITH A NORMAL SENSOR FAIL. aside from random stalling. Always check your sensors first. Best of luck to you all ❤
After talking to my mechanic and much Googling, I’m almost certain this is the issue. This video summarizes everything I’ve read and experienced with my 2016 Kia Soul 1.6L engine. We already replaced the alternator two days ago after a reading at AutoZone told us the voltage regulator in the alternator was bad - the voltage ripple was at 8.00V (max acceptable at 0.05 V). Replaced the alternator and thought all was well until today when it didn’t start. Back to AutoZone, same reading. So we knew it had to be either a bad alternator, or more likely, a different issue altogether. In reference to this video, I have not had the check engine light come on, or having the engine stall (thank goodness), but I’ve experienced every other symptom. This is including the hard start/no start and loss of power, which only occurred when my car did a hard start after an extended period of the engine cranking and not starting. Once it finally started, the tachometer read 0 RPM (even though the engine was running) and the traction control light came on. Driving it that way, it was very “lurchy” when coming to stop and releasing the brake. It was also nearly silent while stopped at stoplights. I also could not accelerate well - I had to go 35 in a 45 with my hazards on just to get home after the first time this happened. Luckily I figured out how to work around that by restarting the car so it runs correctly. If it does this hard start with the 0 RPM/traction control light, I turn the car off and immediately back on and it starts normally. My husband and I are going to try getting the CPS replaced, or do it ourselves. Thank you for this video! It confirmed my suspicions. I will try to return to this comment and update if all goes well.
I’m having similar problems with my Kia after driving it during a flood warning went through a deep puddle. The mechanics think it’s the fuel pump but I’m going to show them this video and tell them what I think. I hope they don’t think I’m full of shit for giving them my opinion
@@BandoBrando94 for me they found out it was my camshaft sensor after I brought in my car for another diagnosis when my car had the engine light on. I just got my car out of the shop and it’s working perfectly fine again like it did before.
We’ve put probably about $700-$800 into my 1997 Eclipse GS trying to figure out why it shuts off while going down the highway and refuses to start for 5/10 minutes and doesn’t throw a code, we’ve replaced everything fuel and electronic that we think it could be, the CPS is the last thing we can think it could possibly be, and talking to multiple friends, reading posts, and seeing videos like these really helps solidify our suspicions
I had the same problem but even after my sensor changed my car kept stopping on the highway. I ended up cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body lol haven’t had the problem in years now! Clean that MAF sensor it’s a $5 fix and changed everything!
Thanks for the video! I'm tracking down an issue, codes P0201, P0202, P0203 open circuit for every fuel injector. No way they are all bad so I'm thinking ECM/PCM or perhaps a bad coil. Then lastly, crankshaft sensor as it exhibits a lot of the same symptoms. Rough idle, flashing check engine light, loss of power etc. I'm going to start testing coils using the fuse and go from there.
@@dnzkhraman Yes. It ended up being a bad fuse junction box. After throwing a lot of different parts and money at it - having two different shops misdiagnose the issue - none of their ideas fixed it. One shop told me I had to replace the engine harness (I passed on that) and another told me I had bad E38 connectors. I replaced those E38s and that did not solve it. I all of my coils were good, I replaced the ECU. None of that fixed anything.
These sensors are a pain in the butt. Every time I had one go, I was driving a big truck(Mack and International) And of course, in the middle lane, where 4 wheelers let you back in the right lane, so you can get off the highway. NOT!. Every time, it was the sensor that went bad, nothing wrong with the truck.
Thank you for the video I think that's what happened with my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ( so my mechanic says) your video was great you got to the point you didn't go on and on and on and on Love it 🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦💖
Hey I been doing research and crankshaft and camshaft have the same symptoms? I’m confused trying to understand what’s the difference and trying to see which one I have to change.
I have a 2007 Chevy equinox and they made this vehicle from 05 to 09 I think. I’ve change the crank sensor and had problems cause wouldn’t start ruff idle and cut off. The point I’m getting at when you change the crank sensor replace it with the exact part manufacturer that came out from the vehicle not all manufacturer wire there crank sensor the same. My vehicle I went with a brand call “WVE” from rock auto. The original part that u remove from the vehicle will have numbers and should match up with the part u will have to buy. This goes for both crank and cam sensor. Thank you and me
Well done video. This is how an instructional video should be done. Dont change a thing. People dont have time for rambling and endless talking . Hope this fixes my 05 f150 5.4 3v randon missfires. Replaced all plugs, coilpacks, checked compression on every cylinder, checked all control side injector circuits with powerprobe maestro, changed fuel filter (was very dirty and slightly rusty looking gunk on the tank side) after all this is still get some misfires. Anybody have any advice im all ears. Thanks
My 2007 Mazda rx-8 is having an issue where I have to jump it to kinda force start it and after cranking for a while it’ll turn on but reeks like gas and makes weird noises in the engine, I replaced my spark plugs, ignition coils, and spark plug wires just recently and it misfired recently. I chanced my air filter and cabin air filter and no luck so hopefully this could save me❤️
Thats because you have the rotary engine which is prone to flood after a while. I used to have one and I couldnt turn it on And turn it off say to move it id have to rake it around the block a few times otherwise id have to sit there with it hooked up to another cars battery and crank it until the gas burnt off, it would belch white smoke from the pipe until it finally cleared out and was fine
If i remember corectly it had something to do with the seals within the engine going bad around the 180k mark. The car ran fine but if i wanted to move it into the garage from the driveway or any short distance id have to drive it around or it would flood everytime. Same sorta symptom as the ckp sensorin that u have to crank and crank and crank in order to clear the engine
How about a P0343 engine code?should I replace the camshaft as long with the crankshaft sensor?My 2011 Prius does not turn on after replacing camshaft sensor ?
@@biancalbbh3482 nc i have p0102 code but all my mechanic friend advice me check all the vacuum because they never change maf sensor in any car and my friend also tell me the worst case is oil mist that disturd sensor from working lol
Hi, I've had a problem with my w203 c200 kompressor for over a month now. The car would not start at all, and there is no even cranking sound or noise of attempting to start. (all fuses have electricity coming through them). Also the engine fan will turn on max speed when key is on contact, even though the car itself cannot start, meaing the engine should not be hot at all. What do you think might be the issue?
I have a 2012 528xl bmw check engine on i did a diagnostic and p1339 pop up camshaft position sensor i replace both sensor. Light still on and car losses power what Could be the problem
On certain GM models, the trans will not go into lockup. No codes. It will have to be programmed after being replaced by a Tech 2 or other OBD2 compatible computer.
Bro I need help from Bangladesh, my car is Nissan Sunny X Saloon 2002 model, the car starts after some places then it stops suddenly, it starts again, after giving a lot of help, it cranks and does not start, after taking a rest for a while it starts again. Turns on and off again, please tell me for which purse this happens.
My 2002 dodge stratus was doimg that. Once the car got to opereating temp it would shut off, but the when it cooled down (around 20 mins) it would restart. When it first started doing that I could get farther but it got to the point where I couldn't even make it 1 mile. I changed the camshaft sensor,coil pack and plug wires and engine coolant sensor..The last thing that I changed fixed it,it was my crankshaft postion sensor
Do these go bad over time? Or, like fuel pumps, they either work or they don't; no symptoms of going bad, just bad? I have a 96 tahoe with 5.7. Starts fine when cold, after it reaches normal operating temperature, it won't start again until next day. Turns over and over, but will not crank, not even with starting fluid. Only when warm. I'm stumped.
Another symptom is the car won't rev up to its rpm potential due to the sensor thinking the rpm's are too much causing the computer to shut down the car at that rpm. Almost like a hard fuel and ignition cut.
I had a code P2A00 I did the air fuel reset with the unplugging of the mass airflow sensor, which made the code go away but my bank one sensor one reads a constant .27 through .30 V at no matter idle or 3000 RPMs, there are no exhaust leaks or intake leaks, the car runs great but the engine twitches it runs rich on that bank can a camshaft or a crankshaft sensor cause this? All 4 O2 sensors are brand new denso, A/F & O2 also brand new aftermarket cats, I just passed emissions in the state of Illinois, so I’ll rule the cats out I’ll add that if you put your ear down by the tailpipe you can hear it sputtering especially when you’re in a garage where it bounces off the walls. It sounds like a ton of micro misfires, but there is no code it’s probably just from it running too rich to or maybe the misfires are just too small at the ECM’s not picking up on it. The spark plugs are brand new. RPMs remain steady at 650 This is on a 2006 Infiniti G 35 coupe by the way base model VQ35DE
3:06 pm. CDT: What is the potential problem if both camshaft and crankshaft position sensors have been replaced on a 2006 Dodge Dakota and it will start and run but the RPMS go up and down while taking off from idling .
My Renault kangoo 2008 van only starts with easy start spray? New fuel pipes, egr and glow plugs. Thinking now it could possibly be the crankshaft sensor? Can anyone help?
gonna put mines in tonight hopefully it works… I have a 2002 toyota corolla and it cranks but does not start. I have replaced the spark plugs, battery, started, starter relay and it does not turn on. A/C works, radio works, and headlights are bright
Might have something to do with security system. That's what was the issue with mine. (2002 camry) I did replace I think cam or crank sensor, maybe both. Wasn't the problem. The molex connector in the steering column to the ignition module was loose. I doubt that is the problem with yours. My instrument cluster was replaced and I suspect the techs doing the job didn't fasten it all the way. Problem was intermittent but got progressively worse to the point it would practically never start maybe once ever 50 tries drove me nuts. The security light was on with the key in the ignition and turned on and that should have deactivated it so that is a clue anyways if it is the security system. Now sometimes after driving it it cranks won't start but the security light doesn't come on like it did with the issue regarding the molex connector. I'm thinking it might be a cheap crank or cam sensor I used to replace the OEM part or parts trouble shooting the molex connector issue. So hope you didn't throw the old one away!
I don’t have a check engine light on, my only problem is it has a hard crank or excessive crank that’s all I don’t have a rough, idle or anything like that.. does this have anything to do with the Crank sensor as well?
Mine started like that then rough idle slow acceleration and today check engine light and stalling at traffic lights. My Road side breakdown service checked the codes and voila it was crankshaft position sensor fault.
Question I have a Toyota Corolla s 2009 I've changed the crankshaft sensor all spark plugs and coil packs and still won't start turns over but won't start code reader says num 4 misfire even after coil pack changed what else could it be
Looking into buying a car, but they said they replaced the sensor and the light and code still came back for the sensor. Anyone maybe know why or how to fix it?
My '99 Dodge Intrepid shuts off afrer 30-40 minutes of driving, and starts after 15-20 minutes and runs for next half hour. I think it's crankshaft position sensor, or fuel system: pump or filter.
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Just got done changing the crank position sensor on a 2013 Sahara Jeep. No codes, had died while running down the highway 4 times in the last 3 weeks.Thought it might be fuel pump/filter, changed sensor, no more skipping, dyeing or power loss. Easy $40.00 dollar fix compared to a $900.00 fuel pimp. Thanks for all the enlightning information.
Fuel pimp lol
@@Sncedayonethat fuel be pimpin lol
Hell yeah
Which u was in Chicago 😩
I watched this video earlier today and as luck would have it i ran across a car that was exhibiting the same symptoms in this video and after running it on a scan tool it was the crank sensor. Thanks for the great video.
Awesome!
I had just fixed a 2014 jeep that had sensor intermittently stalling the car. It had NO LIGHTS, NO OTHER SYMPTOMS ASSIOATED WITH A NORMAL SENSOR FAIL. aside from random stalling. Always check your sensors first. Best of luck to you all ❤
Did it fix it? Im having the same problem with a 2012 Jeep Wrangler, it will shut of when I’m at a stop or when I’m starting to accelerate.
Does you have o code?
Bro you may have saved me I couldn’t get a code for shit on my Jeep I’m gonna buy the sensor pray for me
@@robertovukaj2145 it didn’t have a code but I changed it and it hasn’t stalled anymore
@@damanimcclain2065 it worked for me , hasn’t stalled
Yo, I just wanted to let you know that the videos you create rock! You have a winning template, nicely done!
Thanks!
Very kind of you! I hope more money comes your way. Thank you!
Dude. This information is spot on! Cristal clear explanation!
I appreciate you!
Yes💯
Thank you a ton! All the symptoms match what my car is doing.
I'm going to get a new crankshaft position sensor. Wish me luck!
hi did this work for you?
O2 sensor
After talking to my mechanic and much Googling, I’m almost certain this is the issue. This video summarizes everything I’ve read and experienced with my 2016 Kia Soul 1.6L engine.
We already replaced the alternator two days ago after a reading at AutoZone told us the voltage regulator in the alternator was bad - the voltage ripple was at 8.00V (max acceptable at 0.05 V). Replaced the alternator and thought all was well until today when it didn’t start. Back to AutoZone, same reading. So we knew it had to be either a bad alternator, or more likely, a different issue altogether.
In reference to this video, I have not had the check engine light come on, or having the engine stall (thank goodness), but I’ve experienced every other symptom. This is including the hard start/no start and loss of power, which only occurred when my car did a hard start after an extended period of the engine cranking and not starting. Once it finally started, the tachometer read 0 RPM (even though the engine was running) and the traction control light came on. Driving it that way, it was very “lurchy” when coming to stop and releasing the brake. It was also nearly silent while stopped at stoplights. I also could not accelerate well - I had to go 35 in a 45 with my hazards on just to get home after the first time this happened.
Luckily I figured out how to work around that by restarting the car so it runs correctly. If it does this hard start with the 0 RPM/traction control light, I turn the car off and immediately back on and it starts normally.
My husband and I are going to try getting the CPS replaced, or do it ourselves.
Thank you for this video! It confirmed my suspicions. I will try to return to this comment and update if all goes well.
What did u find out what was wrong with the car
I’m having similar problems with my Kia after driving it during a flood warning went through a deep puddle. The mechanics think it’s the fuel pump but I’m going to show them this video and tell them what I think. I hope they don’t think I’m full of shit for giving them my opinion
So what happened
@@BandoBrando94 for me they found out it was my camshaft sensor after I brought in my car for another diagnosis when my car had the engine light on. I just got my car out of the shop and it’s working perfectly fine again like it did before.
Always get OEM, had many that the aftermarket sensor was bad right off the box!!
Thanks so much! Great video. I'm going to change it tomorrow and see if that fixes the issue. Will update
We’ve put probably about $700-$800 into my 1997 Eclipse GS trying to figure out why it shuts off while going down the highway and refuses to start for 5/10 minutes and doesn’t throw a code, we’ve replaced everything fuel and electronic that we think it could be, the CPS is the last thing we can think it could possibly be, and talking to multiple friends, reading posts, and seeing videos like these really helps solidify our suspicions
Just sold my 01 gs spider and guy told me it was this sensor car is running smooth now
I had the same problem but even after my sensor changed my car kept stopping on the highway. I ended up cleaning the MAF sensor and throttle body lol haven’t had the problem in years now! Clean that MAF sensor it’s a $5 fix and changed everything!
Thanks for the video! I'm tracking down an issue, codes P0201, P0202, P0203 open circuit for every fuel injector. No way they are all bad so I'm thinking ECM/PCM or perhaps a bad coil. Then lastly, crankshaft sensor as it exhibits a lot of the same symptoms. Rough idle, flashing check engine light, loss of power etc. I'm going to start testing coils using the fuse and go from there.
Hi, were you able to find the problem? I am experiencing the same one.
@@dnzkhraman Yes. It ended up being a bad fuse junction box. After throwing a lot of different parts and money at it - having two different shops misdiagnose the issue - none of their ideas fixed it. One shop told me I had to replace the engine harness (I passed on that) and another told me I had bad E38 connectors. I replaced those E38s and that did not solve it. I all of my coils were good, I replaced the ECU. None of that fixed anything.
@@dnzkhraman I replaced the fuse junction box and it fixed the problem.
Experienced all these issues yesterday apart from the last. Also the car did a overheating without signaling on the dash board. A Corolla 2005
I have all these problems. The only problem. Can't wait to change the thing
I just fixed my expedition because of you ❤
Did yours have any codes ? Mine just went out and cranks but doesn’t start. A mechanic said it was the timing chain.
These sensors are a pain in the butt. Every time I had one go, I was driving a big truck(Mack and International) And of course, in the middle lane, where 4 wheelers let you back in the right lane, so you can get off the highway. NOT!. Every time, it was the sensor that went bad, nothing wrong with the truck.
Thank you for the video I think that's what happened with my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo ( so my mechanic says) your video was great you got to the point you didn't go on and on and on and on Love it 🇮🇹🇮🇹🇮🇹🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦💖
Hey I been doing research and crankshaft and camshaft have the same symptoms? I’m confused trying to understand what’s the difference and trying to see which one I have to change.
O-ra-le.... Great video! To the point in explanation systems involved, the relationship and the functional process, and procedure to solution.👏
Very kind , thank you!
I have a 2007 Chevy equinox and they made this vehicle from 05 to 09 I think. I’ve change the crank sensor and had problems cause wouldn’t start ruff idle and cut off. The point I’m getting at when you change the crank sensor replace it with the exact part manufacturer that came out from the vehicle not all manufacturer wire there crank sensor the same.
My vehicle I went with a brand call “WVE” from rock auto.
The original part that u remove from the vehicle will have numbers and should match up with the part u will have to buy. This goes for both crank and cam sensor.
Thank you and me
Well done video. This is how an instructional video should be done. Dont change a thing. People dont have time for rambling and endless talking . Hope this fixes my 05 f150 5.4 3v randon missfires. Replaced all plugs, coilpacks, checked compression on every cylinder, checked all control side injector circuits with powerprobe maestro, changed fuel filter (was very dirty and slightly rusty looking gunk on the tank side) after all this is still get some misfires. Anybody have any advice im all ears. Thanks
My 2007 Mazda rx-8 is having an issue where I have to jump it to kinda force start it and after cranking for a while it’ll turn on but reeks like gas and makes weird noises in the engine, I replaced my spark plugs, ignition coils, and spark plug wires just recently and it misfired recently. I chanced my air filter and cabin air filter and no luck so hopefully this could save me❤️
Thats because you have the rotary engine which is prone to flood after a while. I used to have one and I couldnt turn it on And turn it off say to move it id have to rake it around the block a few times otherwise id have to sit there with it hooked up to another cars battery and crank it until the gas burnt off, it would belch white smoke from the pipe until it finally cleared out and was fine
If i remember corectly it had something to do with the seals within the engine going bad around the 180k mark. The car ran fine but if i wanted to move it into the garage from the driveway or any short distance id have to drive it around or it would flood everytime. Same sorta symptom as the ckp sensorin that u have to crank and crank and crank in order to clear the engine
Thanks a lot for your precious explanations........
Thank you!
How about a P0343 engine code?should I replace the camshaft as long with the crankshaft sensor?My 2011 Prius does not turn on after replacing camshaft sensor ?
This all makes so much sense now. I can not wait to change it tomorrow. Thank you so much for making these videos!!
How it go?
@@MKABR Super simple and my car has stopped stalling at stoplights and accelerates and runs much better I’m very happy with it
@@biancalbbh3482 nc i have p0102 code but all my mechanic friend advice me check all the vacuum because they never change maf sensor in any car and my friend also tell me the worst case is oil mist that disturd sensor from working lol
@@biancalbbh3482how much was it can u remember?
@@soph1647 I got it from advance auto parts for about $35
Do these things have to be relearned? I’ve seen people say that you need a scanner to relearn it. I got a 2010 charger
Do you get spark if your timing is out? Changed the sensor with no luck
U got my sub thank you , no nonsense details 🤙👌
Is stalling an issue? Mine stalls while I'm driving down the road...
Hi
How do i can check the connector of the camshaft position actuator ?
Do signs of a bad fuel pump control module please my g37 sedan is having issues with a p1233 code!
Hi, I've had a problem with my w203 c200 kompressor for over a month now. The car would not start at all, and there is no even cranking sound or noise of attempting to start. (all fuses have electricity coming through them). Also the engine fan will turn on max speed when key is on contact, even though the car itself cannot start, meaing the engine should not be hot at all. What do you think might be the issue?
How much does it cost. Do u think and can u get by it
I have a 2012 528xl bmw check engine on i did a diagnostic and p1339 pop up camshaft position sensor i replace both sensor. Light still on and car losses power what Could be the problem
Yeah they are all right 👍
You rock man🎉
Very nice, thank you!
Will cause the p0420 code to pop up? (The catalytic converter code)
Does this also cause the Traction Control light to turn on ?
Yes, it can happen
On certain GM models, the trans will not go into lockup. No codes. It will have to be programmed after being replaced by a Tech 2 or other OBD2 compatible computer.
It can also throw a code from a camshaft pos sensor and when you start your vehicle it sometimes shows rpm’s at 0
what if car stop cranking after refueling (only) and crankshaft position sensor fault code is appear ?
It was starter, heat soaking
Check your canister purge valve disconnect it and try to start the car again
Does oil spill out when you change this
I have all these symptoms and codes for the sensors but my engine is tapping bad so is the bad sound from this also ?
Bro I need help from Bangladesh, my car is Nissan Sunny X Saloon 2002 model, the car starts after some places then it stops suddenly, it starts again, after giving a lot of help, it cranks and does not start, after taking a rest for a while it starts again. Turns on and off again, please tell me for which purse this happens.
My 2002 dodge stratus was doimg that. Once the car got to opereating temp it would shut off, but the when it cooled down (around 20 mins) it would restart. When it first started doing that I could get farther but it got to the point where I couldn't even make it 1 mile. I changed the camshaft sensor,coil pack and plug wires and engine coolant sensor..The last thing that I changed fixed it,it was my crankshaft postion sensor
Hi Can faults happen without showing codes?
Yes he says so in the video
Do these go bad over time? Or, like fuel pumps, they either work or they don't; no symptoms of going bad, just bad? I have a 96 tahoe with 5.7. Starts fine when cold, after it reaches normal operating temperature, it won't start again until next day. Turns over and over, but will not crank, not even with starting fluid. Only when warm. I'm stumped.
Bro you might’ve of just saved me
Sound about right about what the code popped up & what exactly happens to my car 😅
Another symptom is the car won't rev up to its rpm potential due to the sensor thinking the rpm's are too much causing the computer to shut down the car at that rpm. Almost like a hard fuel and ignition cut.
I had a code P2A00 I did the air fuel reset with the unplugging of the mass airflow sensor, which made the code go away but my bank one sensor one reads a constant .27 through .30 V at no matter idle or 3000 RPMs, there are no exhaust leaks or intake leaks, the car runs great but the engine twitches it runs rich on that bank can a camshaft or a crankshaft sensor cause this? All 4 O2 sensors are brand new denso, A/F & O2 also brand new aftermarket cats, I just passed emissions in the state of Illinois, so I’ll rule the cats out
I’ll add that if you put your ear down by the tailpipe you can hear it sputtering especially when you’re in a garage where it bounces off the walls. It sounds like a ton of micro misfires, but there is no code it’s probably just from it running too rich to or maybe the misfires are just too small at the ECM’s not picking up on it. The spark plugs are brand new.
RPMs remain steady at 650
This is on a 2006 Infiniti G 35 coupe by the way base model VQ35DE
So will it cause heavy jerking while driving?
Definitely possible
Could it throw the rpm tac to go wild?
3:06 pm. CDT: What is the potential problem if both camshaft and crankshaft position sensors have been replaced on a 2006 Dodge Dakota and it will start and run but the RPMS go up and down while taking off from idling .
3.7- 6 cylinder
My Renault kangoo 2008 van only starts with easy start spray? New fuel pipes, egr and glow plugs. Thinking now it could possibly be the crankshaft sensor? Can anyone help?
gonna put mines in tonight hopefully it works… I have a 2002 toyota corolla and it cranks but does not start. I have replaced the spark plugs, battery, started, starter relay and it does not turn on. A/C works, radio works, and headlights are bright
Might have something to do with security system. That's what was the issue with mine. (2002 camry) I did replace I think cam or crank sensor, maybe both. Wasn't the problem. The molex connector in the steering column to the ignition module was loose. I doubt that is the problem with yours. My instrument cluster was replaced and I suspect the techs doing the job didn't fasten it all the way. Problem was intermittent but got progressively worse to the point it would practically never start maybe once ever 50 tries drove me nuts. The security light was on with the key in the ignition and turned on and that should have deactivated it so that is a clue anyways if it is the security system. Now sometimes after driving it it cranks won't start but the security light doesn't come on like it did with the issue regarding the molex connector. I'm thinking it might be a cheap crank or cam sensor I used to replace the OEM part or parts trouble shooting the molex connector issue. So hope you didn't throw the old one away!
I don’t have a check engine light on, my only problem is it has a hard crank or excessive crank that’s all I don’t have a rough, idle or anything like that.. does this have anything to do with the Crank sensor as well?
Mine started like that then rough idle slow acceleration and today check engine light and stalling at traffic lights. My Road side breakdown service checked the codes and voila it was crankshaft position sensor fault.
Perfect video , thanks
Question I have a Toyota Corolla s 2009 I've changed the crankshaft sensor all spark plugs and coil packs and still won't start turns over but won't start code reader says num 4 misfire even after coil pack changed what else could it be
Okay so you have crank no start correct? How many miles does the vehicle have? When was the last time the vehicle started?
Do you know of a aftermarket tachometer that would work with a 2005 Seadoo 4TEC crank sensor? Something I could easy wire?
What would you do if you had a code for crankshaft sensor, Change it and now it doesn’t start.
Lancer 2005 1.3 manul code 54 with paper clicp plz what the fault ... Enginw crank only but no start
My car has had two crank shaft sensors replaced. It’s starting to act up again. What would cause my car to blow through these like that?
Low oil
It seems like the engine heat kills the sensors
Are they oem sensors?
Looking into buying a car, but they said they replaced the sensor and the light and code still came back for the sensor. Anyone maybe know why or how to fix it?
Good video my g35 just did this to but I'm gett up early tomorrow morning I'm fixing my baby
How do you fix it?
How to replace the crankshaft sensor on a 2009Buick enclave .
Hi, does your crank pully need to be clean, mine was very rusty and dirty so I cleaned it but I had no issues.
Really helpful thank you!!
Thank you!
My '99 Dodge Intrepid shuts off afrer 30-40 minutes of driving, and starts after 15-20 minutes and runs for next half hour. I think it's crankshaft position sensor, or fuel system: pump or filter.
BUT LOW IDLE SOUND LIKE IT NOCKING??
My 1995 5.0 keeps dying in the freeway out of nowhere and then it had a hard time cracking this might be it 😿😿
Is this Martin?
Mine has no crank so doubt this is it 😢
i have all of these symtoms :D
I'll take all of the above symptoms for 500 Alex
0:51 0:51 0:55 0:59
Jacobson Plains
My guy just went 7/7 on my Jeep problems 💀💀
Trent Knoll
I have all the symptoms except the stalling lmao
How to know if the cables are actually the ones faulty?
Opel Astra h code00105😢
And why is this guy talking like he’s trying to sing a song
It’s so annoying
Canadian
Entertainment
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Wehner Via
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I love your video. It helped me and it’s so clear to understand.
Good work pal, thanks
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!❤❤❤