CRANK Position Sensor Test - failing CKp sensor - CKp test
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- How to do a CRANK position sensor test in 15 seconds❗ Do this CKp test INSIDE the car. Know immediately if you have a failing CKp sensor, which often has NO EML & NO code.
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Is stalling or non-start caused by a crank sensor problem❓ Especially a bad crankshaft position sensor but no code issue. No special skills required. Easy DIY
If you are lucky enough to have the EML on (engine management light) then the code (DTC) may well be P033x. A failing crank sensor often shows NO code though.
Something I have noticed from a variety of forums, is that diagnosis of a CKp issue can sometimes be very "hit and miss". Garages often play "parts darts", replacing parts at YOUR expense until something solves the problem. This method I'm showing you can instantly tell you if you need to replace the CPk or "eliminate it from enquiries"
This test is for cars without a CAMshaft position sensor, ie a CRANKshaft sensor ONLY (most non Japanese petrol cars).
❗❗ This method cannot be used on cars with both CAMshaft and CRANKshaft sensors ❗❗
ALWAYS check wiring continuity and condition before replacing any electrical parts.
Don't forget to clear your EML codes once you have fixed any problem. I use Torque Pro app on Android. There is a choice of similar apps, but for the money they are hard to beat. Just using them once is cheaper than a garage doing it for you. You'll need one of these Bluetooth adapters
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OR a wifi adapter:
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This is a great video because you discuss the RPM at 0 during sensor fail. No one else out of 30 videos discusses this. Thanks.
Hi Jennifer, thanks for watching and for interacting. Welcome aboard.
Yes, it's part of my "back to basics" approach where I am trying to show that faults can be identified or narrowed down by testing and that garages using "parts darts" at customers expense are simply incompetent and ripping people off. Another good example is coil-over-plug units (I'll cover this later this year).
Granted this test is not 100% foolproof but it does work for most cars most of the time. To be 100% foolproof you need a picoscope (plus laptop). At around £1000 picoscopes are simply beyond the capability of the vast majority of DIYers. You can see a picoscope in action here with Oz: th-cam.com/video/wmoQxiqYX3U/w-d-xo.html
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Agreed! I haven't seen that info anywhere else yet! Ill be checking RPMs first thing in the morning!
Akbar
Yeas on point!! That wat I was thinking and I think my car is failing at crank sensor.
My sensor is stuck!!!!! It's a hard reach and needs to be out!!! Any idea to get it out from Saab 9-3 owners? 🆘🤦♀️🤦♂️
Watched several videos and nobody ever mentioned checking the tachometer as you’re cranking the motor .. thanks a bunch!
I have been looking up info on CSPS for weeks and this is the first time I heard anything about the tachometer not moving. Thank you so much for this video!!
Did this help you out? Have you diagnosed the problem?
@@CycloneCyd This is so helpful!
Fantastic! As others have said, I've watched countless videos and none of them mentions this! Unfortunately "mechanics" these days seem to be more and more parts fitters, rather than diagnosing and fixing things!
Yeah, 'computer says no' types. It's a lack of investment in training.
Hi cyclone omg you saved me a ton of money the negative cable has 2 cable one that goes attached to the engine and the one that goes to the body of the car came loose I just cleaned it and tightened it and problem solved no more cutting off and no more flickering again thank you so much.
Brilliant! Thanks for letting us know. Maybe seal up the connection with a 2 thick layers of brushed on enamel paint.
Thanks cyd that helped me understand that it's not the crank or cam sensor but with the smell I'm getting after starting that a o2 sensor has failed
Better than 'parts darts' eh?
What about camshaft position failure symptoms? Are they identical (I mean the specific example with tachometer counts for camshaft failure as well ?) Either way, you may have just solved a 5 year old problem. You are a legend my friend!!
This varies. Most cars with a cam sensor as well will revert to using the other sensor in a "get you home" kinda way if the other fails. Thus, you cannot rely on this method solely if the engine has both. However, you should get an EML identifying the faulty sensor (on which note: always check the wiring to any sensor that develops a OBD code)
Your the man ! Very informative and concise 👍👍👍
A simple yet brilliant solution and answer to my problem of a 98 Chevy that wouldn't start. , My question was simply "Will The Tach Move If The Crank Position Sensor Has Failed?" Thank you Very Much !!!!!
A back to basics approach. Something that seems to be missing these days
Vielen Dank für das Video! Mit Ihrer Hilfe könnte ich das Motor-Problem an meinem Hyundai i30 lösen. Ihre Fehlerbeschreibung ist perfekt. To make a long story short, thanks you.
I have exactly same problem, which I have discovered this morning. Trying to start a car, I can hear starter, but thats it. Eventually it shows gearbox error, but once I read ECU faults, it is : Crankshaft position sensor. I have digital dashboard, so I could not check taho meter, but I am sure that sensor is faulty. Thank you for this video.
It does sound like it could be your CPk. Do let us know how you get on.
@@CycloneCyd got a wheel off today, it is C4P, 2.0hdi. checked connector, everything is solid, cant move a thing. Deleted error, it started immediately. Tried couple of times after that. Started each time, French gremlins:)
This seems to be the problem I'm having in my 05 Jaguar xtype. Bummer I just paid the mechanic $350 to fix it. I like your presentation. SUBSCRIBED
Hi there Frank. Thanks for watching and especially for subscribing and interacting.
Yes, "a lot" (most, IMO) of garages like to maintain an "air of mystique" around certain components like crank sensors, coil over plug units and ABS sensors, often claiming that they can't be tested and that substitution is the only way forward (and anyway, the computer says it's faulty - which is not what codes mean at all).
This is great for them as you rightly point out since they are being paid by the customer, often at inflated rates which the customer is in no position to challenge (thanks to that air of mystique). Good quality CPk units from the likes of Bosch are around £50 to £100 typically and changing them should take way less than an hour with the right tools and access..
We've all been in your position, been overcharged for something relatively easy. Don't let it get to you, learn from it and move on, but be better prepared next time!!
Have a look at my videos about the Polo ABS light! You'll see similar experiences in the comments.
Rant over, I'll get off my soapbox now!!
Welcome aboard.
I hope this is my problem, already order the part !!! Thanks brother for the info !!!
Update?
Automotive Performance Mobile Mechanics after I change the sensor my car still stalling, I look more deep into videos and forums and looks like is the fuel pump or the fuel pump control unit I drive a GTI MK6 2014
Had that problem with my 2011 dodge avenger replacing the part was easy getting the engine reconfigure was almost a disaster but got it fixed within 24 hours.
It's so nice to hear people's success stories on different cars and from different parts of the world. Thanks for commenting and welcome aboard.
This video was a Very big help to me this turned out to be my problem
Excellent. What car was this?
2006 Kia Sorento
Interesting, my Kia Rio 5 hatch, is a 2013 model, recently had this issue could not turn over engine. Thought battery, but it's in good health. It would eventually start, and work a few times. Last night couldn't start and same this morning.
I did notice my rpm gage was at 0 when I got it to start and I was on the road doing 60km/h. Thought it odd at the time. Parked my car at a plaza and stopped and started the engine and rpm gage was fine.
Now present day, my Kia Rio 5 hatch won't start. Waiting for a tow to the garage.
This video helped me clue in the rpm and the crankshaft sensor!
Wish I found your video sooner! Thanks!
Hope you get it fixed cheaply and easily
@@CycloneCyd the crankshaft sensor was the issue, I had to get my car towed to the mechanic and explained the issue and the rpm issue, they checked for possible codes and did find it this time and had it replaced.
Picked up my car today and went for a late evening drive on the highway to clear out remaining old fuel and added some fuel additives and filled up my tank. I only put 3k km on the odometer in 2020-2021 so gotta drive it to keep it in good running condition.
And now I do notice when I start the engine, the rpm needle does do about 200-300 before the engine kicks in.
Thank you for the tip again! Cheers
@@Wireless_Gadgets glad it was an easy fix, but just as important, now you know the 'signs' if it happens again
Thank you for showing this. It happened to me long time ago, took me a lot of time to figured it out .
Yes. The lack of codes confuses even mechanics
shuo chen - I post the same thing without even seeing your post first. Men that was annoying that the check engine light doesn’t tell u that. Would save a hole lot of grief.
shuo chen 我也遇到热车之后 行驶中熄火的问题 怀疑是crankshaft sensor。但是没有故障码。
Thank you so much friend. I will keep it in mind. Appreciated a lot.
Thank you for making this video! It was very helpful in my situation with my 09 Camry.
Awesome. You're welcome!
thanks for the valuable information
This guy knows his shit. Thanks for the video
Thanks. It's not a guaranteed 100% test for all cars (especially diesels), but works for most Euro and US petrols.
thank you .. you are the best in this description
Thank you Dani, appreciated. Welcome aboard
Thank you very much
You are welcome.
I love this video. I have had issues with my car starting for 3 months and not a single mechanic has been able to figure out, no forum, youtube video, or article has been able to help me diagnose the issue properly. Your video is amazing! Very professional, clear, and direct really showing all the symptoms and how to test them. Thank you!
Brilliant! Glad it helped. What car was this on?
@@CycloneCyd this was for an s197 mustang 3V
Did you resolve issue, what was wrong? Those 4.6 3v's have vvt right?
1993 Cadillac Allante. I have replaced the ICM (ignition control module), MAP sensor, combination switch, EGR valve. Starts right up when it is cold, no problem. But once the car is driven continuously it will randomly stall, especially if I am in stop-and-go traffic (which is the norm her in Los Angeles). I then have to wait 25-30 minutes for it to start up again. Once the tach gauge starts to go up and down, it will start to hesitate, then finally stall. I've ordered a new crank sensor and connector. May have a pro install for me though.
Did the sensor prove to be the issue? New one sorted it?
Cyclone Cyd $1000 later, it was the MAP sensor, again. I did replace both crank sensors anyway, but they weren't the source of the problem.
thank you
You're welcome, thanks Neal
My infiniti g35 has an issue during a cold start. It takes a couple of tries for it to turn on but will eventually start and once it starts I can turn off the ignition and itll start up right away like normal. What I found interesting was that the car sounds exactly the same in this video when the injectors got disconnected for demonstration during my cold starts. I've replaced the fuel pump and spark plugs. Have not messed with the coils nor the fuel injectors yet or the camshaft or crankshaft sensor.
I'd say that sounds like a fuel problem rather than ignition. Try turning on ignition and wait 3-5 seconds before cranking to give the pump time to build up fuel pressure. Have you tested fuel pressure at the fuel rail or cleaned the injectors?
Good video. Covered the symptoms well and got straight to the point
Thanks, glad it helped.
Great sharing.
Thank you! Cheers!
I have been having issues where I've been sometimes stuck either in second or fifth gear. Somebody on an old forum post mentioned replacing their crank position sensor and it helped that. Although from watching these other videos it seems like that's not a usual symptom of it failing.
You could try gearbox oil change, often overlooked and can make gear chaged smoother, works for me and my reverse gear was quite crunchy too
Thank you for the message
Thanks for watching. Welcome aboard
Yes my Pontiac Grand Am had that problem when it got to normal operating temperature the sensor would stop working engine would die and it would not start until could then it would run good until hot again ,so wen I got my chrysler 300 with 175 thousand miles I replaced the sensor it was good but I replaced it anyways and I put the old one in the trunk for emergency ,its a cheep sensor anyways.
Nice experience
Thanks
Nice video, precise and useful. But....My VW mk4 1.9 tdi does not move tachometer when cranking, after starter repair and compression, battery and fuel pipes check starts much quicker, used to not to start at all before (only with start spray).
Now after start it idles uneven first 10 seconds on cold motor and after 50 m of driving it cuts off in 1st gear when attempting to start. Started very hard after long cranking and liot of white smoke (fuel not burnt I suppose). Never did cut off in driving (still, thank god). Could it be crankshaft position sensor? My mechanic said it is anlaser/starter problem. I am an amateur but after this I don’t know for sure and have to ask myself will it leave me somewhere. Thank you and keep up the good work!
on my chevy 3500 express van w 5.7 vortec engine and 60,000 miles: early sign of a CKp sensor problem was occasional MIL yellow engine code on dash, occasional code P0300 'engine misfire on random cylinders'. ,the engine starts and runs fine and accelerates up hills well. but my mechanic said don't drive it, do a diagnostic. "an engine cylinder misfire from a bad spark plug is annoying but an engine misfire caused by the CKp being bad can ruin your engine. " the misfires will just get worse then cause you engine stallouts when running , and hard or impossible starting. once the problem is more advanced you will get OBD Code P 0335 . at that stage you must get this CKp problem fixed or you can ruin your engine. sometimes a shim kit will fix it other times you need the wholeCKp sensor for hundreds of $$.
Here in the Uk a CPk sensor is typically £50-80 for Bosch. Does "hundreds of $$" include labour because it's hard to get at?
Thanks
Great video; gotta love the Brits; thanks !!
Welcome aboard. Appreciate the compliment.
I just went out to crank our 2005 Buick Rainier, and had zero RPM's so tomorrow I will put a new crankshaft sensor on, and hopefully it will start & run as it should. Thanks!
How did you get on?
Thanks mate, this is the best diagnosis video for a faulty CNKSS, on the whole of TH-cam, simply and straight to the point.. Round of applause 👏👏👏
Hi Strake750, WOW, high praise indeed 💚 thank you. I was actually inspired by most garages saying you can't test them, so they test by substitution (diagnosis by guesswork I call it). To test them properly in the early stages of failure you need a picoscope, which is out of the reach for a DIYer (around £1000 worth 💰). This method, of course, is free and easy and anyone can do it.
If you want to see it being done with a picoscope, watch this video from @Oz Mechanics
th-cam.com/video/wmoQxiqYX3U/w-d-xo.html
Welcome aboard. 🖖
@@CycloneCyd
Ha ha, it's funny you should send that link, I was watching that one until he produced a large hammer, when I saw that, I immediately switched it of then come across you video, but thanks anyway and good day to you Sir
much appreciated, good detail.
Thanks
love your videos on Saab 9-3 keep it up .
I will. Thanks.
Amazing clear explanation with a simple test, I couldn’t ask for more! Thanks!!
I just got in a trouble on a highway with supposedly broken CPS in my Volvo V70 (2001) and fortunately got my friend to tow me home. I’ll check if it starts when cooled down. As I was trying to start the car by the road, it sounded almost like a broken ignition preventing system, somewhat like on this video.
Keep an ey on the tacho when it won't start.
I love those cars
Me too - just in case you hadn't noticed 😂
Excelente video.
Saab 9.3-model car stops working suddenly and does not start working after disconnecting the negative from the battery and returning it and turning it on and this is how you help me
Very informative, cheers
Thank you. Did it help solve a problem?
There's nothing like experience , coming to the rescue! Thank you for sharing your deep knowledge on automotive 'issues'.
Training in Rover Group in my younger years when I was also driving and building rally cars was incredibly instructional. Whatever issue I came across, i could find someone in the company who could help me. It was a massive period of learning and I never stopped. Now I feel priviliged to be able to pass that learning on and earn a living from it.
Exactly what my 2001 Yukon XL is doing. Stalling without warning and will restart after a few minutes and then shut back down . Especially after the engine gets to normal operating temps Not so much in cooler weather
Did it turn out to be the crank sensor?
Changed it out and that fixed the problem. Thanks for the advice
@@joeysansom5075 good job 👍👍and welcome aboard
Hi,
I have seat alhamrah 2012 automatic 2L desiel problem is during drive is ok but at trific light or during reverseing some time enging shutdown & saying start manually with no light. . . plzzz help me thanks
The symptoms you describe are classic CPk. have you tried the tacho test?
Had the exact same symptoms, my mechanic suggested it's the fuel pump without running and diagnostics but I insisted he first checked the crank sensor which it was. Not a very expensive replacement. And also the engine idles much smoother now
I'm not surprised it runs smoother. When crank sensors start to fail they can "miss a beat". This causes timing issues or even misfires.
Neither am I surprised a garage tried to scam you for a (expensive) fuel pump. It's big bucks 💲💲 profit for them and they can be virtually certain you'll be back because it won't fix it❗
Well done you for insisting. One more little victory against garage scams and useless mechanics who shouldn't even be servicing a walking stick.
@@CycloneCyd Thanks. My car broke down in front of the workshop I go to near my house. It was on a Saturday evening so I parked the car in front of the workshop and told the mechanic to take a look at it on Monday. On Sunday, I decided to scan the ecu and see if any codes show up and found the P0335 code, the check engine light was also on. Surpringly, I was able to start the car after it had stayed there overnight. The next morning I went to see the mechanic and asked him what he thought the problem could be. He said it seemed like the car needed a new fuel pump. At that point I asked him if he had checked what the check engine light was and he said he hadn't, that's when I told him that I had already done the scan and he should do the same to make sure. After a while he called me and confirmed what I had found out earlier. The way these mechanics sell these fixes to you is that they always say they're not a hundred percent sure but it could be this or that, so that they can't be held responsible. I guess that's just another benefit of doing these diy repairs, it helps you second guess the mechanics
Legend
My car with 1.2liter engine has problem with low voltage input on camshaft position sensor i changed camshaft and crankshaft sensor the light is still on please any advice
The light is still on after driving? Have you checked the wiring? Double check they are fitted correctly
This is what I thought when mine started stalling randomly, same thing, would just shut off and no warning lights or anything. Unfortunately, mine turned out to be the ECU programming which just got corrupted over time until the engine wouldn't even prime the fuel pump or crank.
Took almost a year to find one that worked and figure out how to reprogram it to the Chassis Number of the original one...
I had replaced the CPS in the meantime, coils, plugs, and then it still wouldn't start (would crank but not fire). Turns out the replacement Bosch CPS doesn't actually work and only its original one did. When the Service Tech tested them, the newer part had more electrical resistance than the old one, and the signal was just not getting to the ECU. I'm still on the same late '02 CPS even now, I just clean it out periodically along with the MAF sensor...
What were your symptoms? Having problems with my corolla starting to think it’s the same as u
@@joshhemingway7294 There was only one, the car would randomly shut off, regardless of whether I was stationary or driving. When it first started, I would be able to start it back up, but that only lasted about 3 weeks, after which, whenever it would turn off, it wouldn't crank back on.
I knew it wasn't the battery, as it was fairly new, and I wasn't getting a charge system warning either. I thought it was some kind of grounding issue.
If I disconnected the battery, waited a couple of minutes for the system to drain residual power and hooked it back up, the car would start as if nothing happened.
As time went on, the intervals at which the shut-off would occur grew increasingly close. The last time I was able to start it on its original ECU, it lasted a total of 60 yards, just long enough for me to squeeze it into an ok parking spot in my neighbourhood.
After that, nothing I tried worked.
I eventually removed the battery to avoid it draining and was basically on foot for the better part of nearly a year.
That is what happened to me 6 months ago it took a while to get that figured out and then the car ran good again.
SUBBED!@!!!. THANKS BUD
ahhh, one thing im not sure of. WHen you test the rpm at zero to determin cps failure. Do you still have the connector disconnected? or is this with everything connected?
Everything connected. i disconnected it to simulate the fault
Got a golf 2007 20 sdi changed both of the sensors changed crank sensor and the cam sensor and it still won't fire up still showing crank sensor need changing anyone no wots wrong with it
Have you checked the wiring? Also check you've defo installed it correctly and pushed it fully home
2013 ford figo petrol doesn't start and no petrol pump sound pumping gas, might it be crankshaft sensor?
Unlikely. Check fuses and relay first. Then look for voltage output from relay and check wiring to pump.
My car is dying at idle after warming up. Or dying while coasting or coming to a stop at slow speeds. CPS was replaced 5 years ago, its a 2003 saab 9-5. Always happens after at least 20 minutes of driving, and for some reason its worse when its hot out. When I press the AC button it also struggles and sounds like its about to stall. Perhaps I have a failing throttle body and CPS at the the same time. 1) The throttle body will always throw a check engine light, yet? (I have none) 2) will the CPS fail again in 5 years?
Hello sir i just wanna say thank you for your help i shouldve took ur word seriously i had a misfire with no cides and come to find out 2 coils were garbage
some you win, some you lose. As long as you learn something from the experience.
took my car to repair shop they said came error on crank sensor then went straight the engine lume and said it was ruined and wanted 2.000 euros to replace it said it had to be done and to get a new one had to be bought new from the dealership so thank you
If the wiring was damaged, a simple repair should have been sufficient. Glad to help.
So..when i do the test i must disconnect all 4 injectors and then try to start the engine to see if the tachometer moves?
Correct. the point behind disconnecting the injectors is two-fold: 1. the engine won't start so you are free to turn it over for a few seconds to watch the tacho and 2. you won't flood the cylinders with raw fuel while turning it over (which would wash the bores and rings and get to the sump and contaminate the oil)
Excellent thanks
Welcome.
Hello Can you pleas tell me where is a crenk shaft sensor for OPEL
VEVARO 2.0DCiM9R 2011 and thank you
Not familiar with that engine
My honda odyssey k20 is cranking but no start the engine...but fuel is coming and injectors is good but the spark plugs is not giving more fire as the normal car do....how is this problem come coz of crankshaft
So if the rpms are not moving while cranking that means that the cps is bad?...im havinf the dame issue with a bad sensor.. cranks over and takes forever to start
Basically, yes.
@@CycloneCyd ty very much .I had one in there that started failing...put an OEM Nissan sensor and the crank would just crank ..I was so upset when I got out of the car I forgot I had the one that was halfway decent on my lap and it feels on the floor and hit it pretty hard because with that one the csr would start...but after I dropped it and we put it back in the car would take forever to start
Also explains how Japanese cars have Both a Camshaft & Crankshaft Sensor b/c you will get this question when purchasing a new sensor...The only 1 to clarify this of ALL the videos on TH-cam. Cheers Mate ;)
My 1998 Ford Windstar stalled while driving. I started it and after about 20 seconds running it stalled again and the Check Engine light came on. Now I just crank it but it won’t start. It has good fuel pressure at the rail. The tachometer registers engine rotation when I am trying to start it. I pulled out a spark plug and tested it - no spark. I thought to change the crankshaft position sensor but now think, “No”. What could be the cause?
Ignition coil? Did you sort it?
@@CycloneCyd I diagnosed more and unplugged the fuel tank assembly plug from the main harness and applied 12 Volt power to the fuel pump. I used a regular fused switch. I turned on the ignition key and turned on the pump switch. My motor started right up and runs normally. I tested the wire harness coming from the PCU to the tank assembly. I jumpered the relay to apply constant power and there is good power to the fuel pump connector. But when I plug it together and try to start, same old problem. My van won’t start. I swapped relays but still no start. Help. Anything else I’m missing?
If this sensor goes bad , will it also cause the engine to have no spark ?
YES
Im gonna take your advice and change the cranckshaft sensor , but my car only does not start when it’s cold
Let us know how you get on.
@@CycloneCyd same problems again , sorry for the bad news , but since I tried everything , spark plugs , new coils , new gas pump , injectors taken appart and cleaned , by solenoid , new have throttle body , battery and alternator test is good , oil change .....etc nothing worked , now my last hope is the Ecu, my car is a 2009 Toyota Matrix 1.8 L , Built in Canada . I’m sure the CPU is blown up .
On a polo 1.2 2002 6v is the crankcase sensor drivers side or passenger side of engine bay I'm struggling to find it. I watch another video of your and you said its on the left. If I stand in front of the car the left is drivers side if I'm in the car the left side is the passenger side. What is it on drivers or passenger side. Be great if you could help with any info
I used this technique you showed here .... . and helped me realize one thing i forgot to plug the sensor .... Back on you should do the re learned for the crankshaft....
What model of car do you have that the sensor needs re-learning?
08 cadillac cts misfire on all cylinders. Plus random code. P0300 through p0306. No other codes. Compression checked fine. fuel and spark checked fine. Cadillac dealer couldn't find the problem. Had it for over 3 weeks. They s aid the car ran perfect. Perfect fuel trims as well. Could this be a crank sensor issue . Since this is a v engine and it is affecting all cylinders. I would think a cam issue. They also said the timing seemed fine. Just looking for other suggestions since the cadillac mechanics. Have no clue. 3.6 direct injection motor
Thank you for your info!!!
I have an Audi A3 2010, 1.6 petrol. 145000 miles.
It starts whenever it want, once the car stopped on the road.
Road assistant scanned for faults, it showed it's a camshaft position sensor.
I changed the camshaft position sensor, but still keep throwing same codes...
Cambelt kit repair was done couple days ago.
Still getting these codes...
* P0341 (Confirmed) - Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 or Single Sensor.
* Engine:
16725 - Camshaft Position Sensor A, Circuit Range / Performance
Going to check with multimeter cables and sensor
Thank you
Some cars do flag cam code when it is the crank sensor faulty. What it's telling you is that the cam sensor is out of synch with the crank sensor. It could still be either that is faulty and only testing can determine that. Find a garage with picoscope capability.
Thank you for your response, appreciate it 🙏🏻
Hey, just an update. My car doesn't start again. 30 min no start..
The tackometre idle moves up when cranking. Still the same error codes... Any idea..?
Gracias buena información
Gracias por comentar Me alegra que lo hayas encontrado útil. No olvides suscribirte y compartir.
Toyotas, in particular, the RAV4 and 4Runner show *0 RPMs* during cranking, EVEN IN A FULLY WORKING CAR! So don't be fooled into thinking it's guaranteed to be a CKP sensor problem if you have one of these cars.
Great info, thanks Rick. This isn't intended to be THE definitive test, rather one of the "signs" to look for and hopefully help people avoid becoming victims of the "parts darts" game so many garages indulge in these days.
Rick Jasper 9572117202 cat
@rick jasper
Where would the ECU take its RPM measurement from then, if not the crankshaft ? 🤔
Hi cyd great vids bud , not sure if you can help me but the Haynes manual is saying set to tdc to change crank sensor ?? Why would this be surely it doesn’t matter as it’s only a magnetic pickup sending a signal it’s a 13 plate connect 1.8tdci thanks in advance regards trev
That does seem odd, but is there a reason you can't set to TDC?
@@CycloneCyd it means either cam cover off an all pipe work etc or down at crank area alternator and an auxiliary bracket off
What if my car batt died n can’t test it .. I think is the alternator or the cranshaft since code Popped up
Get the battery on charge with a charger
I have a ninetynine Audi A4 crank sensor and cam sensor, these are my symptoms exactly.
Is your car OBD equiped? If it is, try reading for EML codes
My sensor is failing and I am trying to change it but it is STUCK. I can turn it but not pull it :-( If anybody has any ideas let me know!
Soory I didn't see this earlier. Try some penetrating oil and turn it again. repeat. Then see if you can turn and pull at the same time.
OR have you sorted it?
@@CycloneCyd no worries. I had to drop the starter motor out and lever the sensor out from the bottom with a screwdriver - it only took a few minutes after employing this approach. Your starter motor video came in handy!
Hi im driving a Japan 2.0 fsi touren 2008 DSG automatic transmission my car has a starting problem and now as im trying to drive it the car starts but doesnt drive off when putting into the drive mode but when i place it in reverse it does so stress free could a bad crankshaft sensor on it be the problem
I have a Saab 93 and it seems to only start up nice after sitting for 5+ hours or after it has just been shut off. It also idles and runs rough, with vibrations from the engine. I checked the codes and all its giving me is P0411, which is the secondary air injection issue. I have a crankshaft sensor to put in. Im just wondering if the sensor will fix my issue or its something different?
To add to it, once it didn’t start for me. It would crank and turn over but not actually fire up the engine. It finally fired up after giving it a tiny bit of throttle
My 99 Dodge truck does the intermittent stalling like you describe. I’ll be driving along and the tach will suddenly drop to zero and the engine dies. Usually you can pull to the side of the road, shut the key off, wait a minute and it will generally start back up. It has even started back up on its own while still rolling along the road. Never throws a code either. I suspect an intermittent crank sensor from everything I’ve read.
Certainly sounds like it John. When you're driving along and the tacho drops to zero, presumably the engine IS still turning (on over-run, being driven by the wheels). If this is the case then both the tacho and engine ecu have lost their speed signal - diagnosis CPk ✔✔✔.
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And do let us know how you get on please
Hi, is it normal for the crankshaft sensor to be oily? and should i clean
What could it be wrong if it show 200 rpm?
Mine Saab 9-5, 2006, 2.0T BioPower showing that.
Should I replace Crank Position sensor anyway?
What about my 08 jetta it will start then die right after is this a sign
Is this when the engine is warm or cold? How does the tacho behave? EML on? Codes?
Great info, thank you! Can you or someone please tell me in regards to a no start Saab - if it is an electrical issue ie. Coil or wiring harness or whatever will there be a bump in RPMs when trying to start???
Not from cranking. If the battery/starter system is healthy the cranking speed should stay fairly steady (around 200rpm usually). If the rpms are 'jumping' occasionally that suggests the engine is trying (unsuccessfully) to fire.
Very nice video tutorial,now I have an idea how to diagnose bad crankshaft position sensor.
Cool, thanks. Is yours giving you trouble? What car & engine?
Hi, my bmw hard start/long cranking when cold engine.. Even after my battery is new, and still same symptom. But when my engine warm /hot it's easy to start. Is that because of crankshaft sensor? Thanks
Unlikely. That's the exact opposite of what you'd expect.
Diesel or petrol? Age? What have you checked so far?
Hi, thanks for replying. Mine's E60 N52 Engine 2007 Petrol. Btw this morning i just swapped inlet(camshaft) sensor, with outlet (crankshaft), now everything fine for starter. And when i checked with INPA OBD, the error message changed to Outlet Camshaft Signal, so it's mean that Inlet Sensor(the first one, before i swapped) is almost damage. Thats why my bmw super hard to start. So i have to buy new one.
2 days ago i just replaced new battery.
Thanks for your videk, that's helpful alot!
I have a acura RL 2006 the sensor keeping fails every few months I replace it twice already
Check that the sensor isn't moving ever so slightly and a gap opening up to the inductor. It doesn't take much.
@@CycloneCyd ok ill check that out thank you
Yes indeed my car shut down and won't start, after a 3 to 4 hours it will start again
Typical. Is it sorted now?
Short and sweet but most of all informative! Thank you!
I just discovered I just unplug thus and put on a new one so I best get started and I will ask my mechanic why he didn't know this when I described these symptoms exactly and only? *second mention the tachometer reading!!
Der... why has nobody ever mentioned this, is it too obvious? NOT
Yeah, I think it is. It's just way too simple for most people. Yes, cars are more complex than they used to be, but people somehow imagine that failures also have to be complex. Not at all, sometimes you just need to get back to BASICS - it's nearly always some simple component failure.
It's the same with coil-over-plug units. Mechanics will tell you they can't be tested other than by substitution (aka 'parts darts'). Again not true. I'm actually in the process of filming a video on how to test COP units!! With a £10 tool too. Watch out for it.
Welcome aboard
Hey Cyclone Cyd, I’ve been chasing a problem a intermittent stalling problem very similar to what you describe. My car is an 03 Toyota Camry v6. It would die when idling then it would crank, but not start. After 10 mins, it would then start again. Although it is a Japanese car so I don’t if it is the crank shaft position sensor or cam sensors. No codes are set off either. My mechanic is baffled. When cranking, tachometer doesn’t move at all.
It turns out that some Toyotas don't show revs when cranking anyway. Do you know if your engine has a camshaft sensor too? Being an older design it may not have.
Next time it stalls, be ready with a DMM. Connect it to the crank sensor (set on low mV scale) and crank the engine. If the sensor is good you should see a small mV reading. If there is no reading (zero reading) then the sensor is dead.
Your symptoms are bang on, so while I'm not normally a fan of playing 'parts darts', in this situation it could be cheaper to change the sensor than to pay for diagnostic time. Testing the crank sensor properly requires a picoscope (££s) and is beyond the vast majority of DIYers (and you'd be surprised how many garages don't have one either).
Cyclone Cyd I’m not too sure if my engine has a cam sensor. It is the 1mz fe engine non vvti. Do you know what are quality brands for a camshaft sensor?
@@civlife1239 Bosch and Denso would be my choices.
Cyclone Cyd out of the crank shift and cam shaft sensor, which one do you think it is more likely to be given my symptoms?
@@civlife1239 Crankshaft sensor would be my guess. In the region of 60-40 to 65-35 I'd say.
many toyota does not show RPM when cranking with a good sensor.
Yes, so it would seem. Thanks for the input.
10 years ago, my subaru 1998 mod, ej25d engine almost every tine engine was warn, and i tryed to restart, it wont start, but is started easy every time it was cold, changer crank and cam posision sensor, and all problems disaperd for 10 years. Now it not responding well on low rpm, when warm, gut runs fine on low rpm when its cold. ( brand new engine core 0nly 20 000 miles on brand new engine. Changes new iridiun sparkplugs 2 days ago, but no improvment. get ned cam and crank sensors 14 des, so hope when i change them, the problem disapear.
Hi techies ,can you help. My 2009 vauxhall vivaro has a delay in starting, slight engine vibration and intermittent P0201 ( cylinder 1 open ) error above 3k revs. ( stop engine light )Garage checked wiring, charged me £450 for new injector still the same.have read crankshaft sensor can do this ?
You are the best this presentation is amazing greeeeat!!! Definitely subscribing to this channel
Wow, thank you! Welcome aboard. What car do you have and where in the world are you?
Hello sir. On a 2010 caravan 3.8 my ckp keeps failing every time I buy a new one. What is causing it to fail? I’ve cleaned all wire connections and checked for all ground wires, went beyond in trouble shooting. Thank You and I appreciate any help
That's what's wrong with my car thank you for the video
Thanks for your comments Wilma