2012 Subaru Rear Brake Service, Rotors and Pads (2012 Forester)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2024
- My 2012 Subaru Forester needed new pads in the rear end.
In this video I show how to do a full rear brake service on the vehicle
Bed In Procedure
www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-b....
00:00 Intro
00:32 Removing Caliper
03:16 Assembling Bracket & Clearance
09:18 Removing Rotor
12:20 Clean Hub
13:05 Prep & Install New Rotor
15:53 Reinstall New Rotor
17:54 Outro - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Great advice. Thanks. Watched 6 videos on this and you were the only one to discuss backing the shoes off to get the hub off 👍🏻
sweet tip for the carrier! will have to slightly file the tangs/ears on the brake pads to ensure they slide properly! will now have to implement that in all my brake jobs!
Manufacturer also plays a part. I used to always use power stop pads and they always needed to be filed. I've since switched to Centric which almost always fit prefectly.
Detailed, great tips on ensuring the pads fit and move in the carrier. Thanks.
Glad you found it helpful!
This video gave me more insight about my brake system. It was perfect for my Subaru.
Thanks
Great tutorial.
Thanks for posting.
Great video to use when changing Subaru Forester rear brakes. I like the tip for the wire brush to clean the hub.
Best video I’ve seen on brake work
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the great video...helped a ton .much appreciated
Great! easy to follow and complete instructions
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful!
This video is awesome, this same thing (brake pads worn to metal) just happened to my wife's 2011 Forester.
Glad the video was helpful!
Very good video. I am about to order front and rear pads and rotors for my wife's 2012 Forrester. I have not accomplished this task before so your vid is quite informative for me.
Thanks man, I'm glad you found it helpful!
Great video! I feel prepared to do my Suby brakes now.
Glad you liked the video!
Thanks. Great job. Great video work also.
Thank you!
Thanks for the information!!
No problem!
Great video, fully explain I have same car.
Thanks!
Fantastic video well done my friend I’ve always done my own brake pads but I’ve never filed the lags like you do it but I’ve often wondered if that should be done thank you very much🇬🇧🇬🇧
Thanks for the kind words.
I can't say if it's an "industry recommended" technique, but I've always found that if I don't file them down they just end up sticking a few thousand miles after a pad change because the fit is just way to tight
@@TwoFourSevenDIY I agree, this is a regular practice the guys use to service disc brakes at the race track. A little clearance goes a long way to allow the pads to retract from the rotor surface quicker after your foot comes off the brake pedal. Lets air get in between the pad and rotor sooner to cool off the pad surface before applied again on the next turn. This helps keep your brake fluid cooler so less fading. These tricks allow you to brake later going into the turns. Gaining 1/10th of a second by braking later on a 10 turn track gains 1 second/lap.
Thank you very nice
No problem!
Very informative & detailed brake service video. Would you agree that installing the pad squealer on the inside with the tab placed on the rotor's leading edge to be the best practice? Does not seem to be a best practice for this. It will make a difference near the end of pad life whether or not the squealer will indicate with noise with vehicle going forward or backwards, depending if tab is installed on rotor's leading edge or trailing edge direction. Really well done! Thanks
Thank you for the compliments! I'm honestly not sure the squealer makes a difference, I've seen it installed on both inside or outside pads in the past.
Personally I've never found them to be a reliable indicator of worn pads so I just make sure to keep an eye on pad life each time I swap my tires over at season end.
Great video! Just one question, Do you have to bleed your brakes after changing the pads? I’ve never changed my brakes before but I’ve always thought you had to?
Nope. No need a all.
Only time bleeding is nessessary is if part of the brake fluid system is disconnected ... for example, replacing a caliper.
Great video very informative 👍probably a silly question but when removing disc I take it hand brake should be off?thanks
Yea. Not silly question, I still leave it on by mistake from time to time, takes me a minute to figure out why it won't come off lol
I just had the same problem with the irregular pad wear. I found that the pad with the squeal tab has an extra rivit pin on the back side. The fork on the caliber bracket falls right on the extra pin causing uneven pressure on the brake pad. This is causing the irregular and excessive wear.
grind the extra rivit off.
I'll definitely have to check that out next time I look at the brakes.
Thanks for the heads up!
Thanks. 11:14, aren't the caliper bracket bolts the right size to use to press off the rotor?
The ones that bolt to the slider pins? Possibly, I wouldn't risk screwing up the threads using them, sometimes the rotors are on there pretty good and it kind of galls up the threads
It would be nice to have a list of everything needed, used, and bought for this project.
Rear rotors (2012 Forester)
Rear pad set (2012 forester)
@@TwoFourSevenDIY i was looking more for a complete list. Like what tools (and their sizing) and chemicals do you use. You used more than just a new rotor and brake pads. thank you for the reply.
I'm not sure how to answer your question ... you can see the tools I used in the video. Only materials used were rotors and a brake pad set ... brake clean to clean the rotors which is obvious. The pad set comes with new shims and grease, I just use my preferred brand of grease
What type of tires do you have? Tire size? I have a 2010 forester XT. Great Video
I bumped up from 16" wheels to 17" but wanted to keep the sidewall roughly the same size so I went with 225/60/17
My understanding is that any bigger than this and you start rubbing.
When brand new at full droop there was only maybe 1/4" clearance between the tire and front inner wheel well plastic in the rear
Anybody have the torque specs for the caliper bolts? On some Hondas it's around 75ft/lb for the caliper bracket and 25ft/lb for the pad bolts
Front
Fill Nipple - 5.9 ft-lb
Caliper - 19.9 ft-lb
Caliper Support - 59 ft-lb
Rear
Fill Nipple - 5.9 ft-lb
Caliper - 19.9 ft-lb
Caliper Support - 48.7 ft
@@TwoFourSevenDIY You're a bro, thanks.
Might not hurt to use proper torque spec on bracket and caliper.
Been wrenching since I learned to drive, in my opinion there is no need for torque values here. They just need to be tight enough to not loosen up and not too tight to snap.
I'm not saying there is anything wrong with using torque values, but trust me, even dealership mechanics won't bother putting a torque wrenches to bolts such as these ones.