Just did the replacement from stock to noctua a8 pwm, on full speed. Noise level dropped from 50 dBA to 40 dBA. Room noise is about 37 dBA. Its much better now for sound recording duties. So thanx for sharing! Also heat at 100 output with softbox attached is 49 C for stock fan, and 53 for noctua, for long run.
Thanks for the recommendation of using A8 FLX as i’d have normally gone with ULN which would be insufficient. With some major tweaks I also tried to fit Noctua 120mm ULN in (800 rpm, 8.6 dB, 74 m3/h), but for some unknown reason it doesn’t work and temp goes beyond 60°C at 100% setting.
Thanks for sharing this video. What do you thing about the fan : be quiet! Pure Wings 2 92mm ? I tried to connect it directly to the godox. But it didn't work. I will try with cutting the wires and using the original "plug piece" instead of new fan's plug piece.
It should work with modification to mounting holes and you must cut the wires to original connector and connect to the connector the stock fan came with.
I tried to convert a 92mm fan to fit the SL 150 and it simply does not work. At this point I highly suggest stick with stock fan and save yourself the trouble I went through. New conclusion video coming soon.
I just Got my SL-150 and I want to replace the fan. If you would have to do it it again would you use the Noctua AF-N8 FLX? from what I understand you would change the fan. I would like to know what would be your choice before I change my fan please!
Most definitely DO NOT use AF-N8 ULN, I already took mine out and replaced with AF-N8 FLX. ULN will overheat at higher light output settings! Use AF-N8 FLX is the bare minimum in terms of heat dispersion for the SL-150W. I would probably go with Arctic F8 Standard amzn.to/2utn8fO instead of Noctua N8 because it costs 1/3 of price and have almost the same performance in terms of air flow and fan speed. Interestingly, the original fan that came with SL-150 is actually a 92mm fan with an 80mm fan mount, so it's a lot more powerful (at moving air than the 80mm fan people typically use to replace it) My next project would be converting a Arctic F9 Standard fan (which is a 92mm fan with 92mm mount) to be able to fit the 80mm fan hole in SL-150. I don't think it'll be terribly hard, just need to drill 4 extra 80mm mounting holes. But yes, you need to use an 80mm computer case fan with at least 2000 rpm fan speed, and preferably with a ball bearing fan instead of a sleeve bearing fan for higher temperature application. Hope it helps.
@@TheGizmoGarage Thanks for the fast reply. With the AF-N8 FLX when you let it run for a long time and does it shut off because of the heat? what would be the temperature reading at 100% after a while? also when running at 100% in term of noise with the Noctua NF-A8 FLX how much quieter would says it is compare to the original one? 50% quieter even more? if you have good result i might start with that since i know it works. If i would switch for a 92 later on i would prefer to stay with Noctua because the price difference is not that much for me. which one would you use?
@@patrickseguin8967 Never ran it at 100% for that long since I rarely need it to be running at 100%, I used it at 90% brightness for about 30 min or so without a cover and the temp stays at 45C. At 50% brightness I think the temp was at 37C or so. I used electric tape to connect them so it's easy to switch the fan back for me if I don't like this setup much. I would use Noctua if price is not a problem.
Hi guys, I've got Noctua NF-A8 PWM, it has 4 wires. Have anyone tried to connect it? When I try to connect 3 out of 4 ot is doesn't work. Maybe I should merge fourth one with one of others? Wires: Blue = PWM Signal (+5V) Green= RPM Speed Signal Yellow = RPM Speed Signal Red = +24V Black = Ground (GND) My question, what should I do with blue?
I would just ignore the blue wire and cover it with electrical tape. If you were to plug it into a non pwm fan header on a computer motherboard the fan would work fine and the 4th pin wouldn't be connected
Also with you new Fan the Noctua AF-N8 FLX, if you use it lets say at 50%-60% is the fan noise at the same level of noise as when you use it at 100%? because i can see that with the original fan when i use it at 50% it produce less noise.
Interestingly, the fan noise is constant regardless of settings with FLX. It's noticeable but It's quieter than even the lowest speed setting of the original fan. Below is the stock fan spec, you can compare it with 80mm fans and find out that 80mm fan is really a bit underpowered in terms of air flow need of SL-150. The stock fan is a Progressive Model# PD922512MB-03 Air Flow 48.29CFM - 80 m^3/hr Dimension: 92mmx92mm.25mm (with 80mm mounts) Fan Speed: 2700 RPM Fan Nosie: 33dB(A) Voltage: 12v Wattage: 3.6w Fan design: Double Ball Bearing Pin: Reversed 3-pin Weight: 100g
I tried to convert a 92mm fan to fit the SL 150 and it simply does not work. At this point I highly suggest stick with stock fan and save yourself the trouble I went through. New conclusion video coming soon.
Oh that's disappointing! But when you switch it with the AF-N8 FLX it was it still working well before you try to change it again? because I think I will make the switch its too noisy with the stock fan! @@TheGizmoGarage
Thanks for sharing this, I upgraded my SL-60 with the FLX (oops) and was wondering why it wasn't as quiet as the videos make it out too be. Just ordered the ULN!
If you bought the FLX (and haven't cut the connector off), it should come with a few different cables to lower the fan speed a little, that way you can get a good combination of quietness and airflow. I know SL-60 have less than half of power output of the SL-150 and I'd say the ULN will do the job just fine. I tested my SL-150 with the ULN yesterday by keep the light on at 50% for a good while, and the temperature stayed at 44C so it's not too bad in terms of airflow for the smaller light.
@@TheGizmoGarage I did try the connectors, but I'm going to give the ULN a shot anyways, it will be interesting to see if there's much of a difference!
Yes I just installed FLX yesterday no flickering that I can detect, however the fan noise is now noticeable compared to ULN, but still quieter than the stock.
@@TheGizmoGarage Is it quiet enough to justify the upgrade? I'd like to get rid of as much of the fan noise as possible but I don't want to open it up if it's not actually going to make it quieter!
@@NickPiro Honestly, I used the light for a 45 min recording, and at 50% brightness the temp stayed at 40C, I really want to actually switch to a larger 92mm fan because I'm still not comfortable with the cooling efficiency of 80mm fans with the SL-150.
I tried to convert a 92mm fan to fit the SL 150 and it simply does not work. At this point I highly suggest stick with stock fan and save yourself the trouble I went through. New conclusion video coming soon.
@@TheGizmoGarage I may try it with a higher RPM fan. 2,000 RPM is definitely too little. You're gonna need minimum 2700 based on what the stock fan is!
The big reason your upgrade "failed" is that you used the wrong fan size. going from 90mm fan to an 80mm fan simply because the holes line up automatically reduce your efficacy by something like 27%compounded by a quiet fan that blows a little less air.... simply because the fan is not blowing air over the entire surface of the heatsink. Instead you should use a 3d printed adapter (free 3d print model on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4208793 ) and a Noctua NF-A9 FLX 90mm fan. This fan is rated at 38cfm compared to the stock rating of 47cfm (about 20% less airflow). After installing via the adapter I got the following results:WITH a 48" softbox aattached: Stock fan: 100% power = 122 degrees F/50 celcius Sound: Loud, completely unusable Noctua: 100% power = 134 degrees F/56.67 celcius Sound: very quiet, completely usable Stock fan: 75% power = 107 degrees F/41.67 celcius Sound: Loud, completely unusable Noctua: 75% power = 112 degrees F/44.44 celcius Sound: whisper quiet, very usable Stock fan: 50% power = 93 degrees F/33.89 celcius Sound: somewhat quieter, borderline usable Noctua: 50% power = 96 degrees F/35.55 celcius Sound: almost completely quiet, perfectly usable Yes, with the adapter and 90mm Noctua fan, the light runs a little hotter. With a reported overheat cutoff at 158f/70c... the Noctua simply never gets close to that, and coupled with the fact that I personally rarely use the light at above 75%-80% power, I find the upgrade to be a cheap, effective way to "upgrade" the fan in this light and make it completely usable in sound recording situations. Even if the
I wish I read that earlier as I already ruined two fans in trying to fit them. Noticing on the second that it's literally impossible without a mount. Btw. did you try this? Thank you :)
the Progressive PD922512MB-03 (detail.1688.com/offer/568786210232.html) Air Flow is rated 48.29CFM - 80 m^3/hr even if you replace with an NF-A8 FLX you get huge lost of airflow (50,4 m³/h at max speed). The Arctic F8 is a bit better: 52.7 m³/h but still really not enough. With a cheap and easy 3d printed adaptor, you can use an Arctic F9 (73.1 m³/h ) who have almost the right air flow and is even quieter (we have to redesign few parts then we put the adaptor on Thingiverse). I try to find a solution to use an Arctic P12 who is almost silent.
Have you thought about a 80 to 92mm converter like this www.ebay.com/itm/fan-adapter-converter-Multi-choice-25mm-height-square-change-mounting-mod-custom/282535006398?hash=item41c86610be:m:mQYtmNxa2P-mOlooIlUmMkA There is plenty of space in the light to add the extra 25mm of depth and you can remove any material on the 80mm flange that will get in the way of the screws on the face near the heatsink. All Noctua 92mm fans do not have a high enough flowrate so you would need to look a other brands that are still relatively quiet. Also there are some similar fans 92mm with 80mm mounts that claim to be quieter that would look to be a direct replacement for the stock Progressive fan. Flow rate is good and it is 3 pin. www.newegg.com/global/nz-en/p/N82E16835106157 Can you post the URL where you got the specs for the stock Progressive cooler?
How are Aputure keeping the LED cool when they have smaller heatsink and less airflow. It is obvious that Aputure are allowing the LED to run Hot. These LED's have an operating temp up to 120 deg C.
Just did the replacement from stock to noctua a8 pwm, on full speed. Noise level dropped from 50 dBA to 40 dBA. Room noise is about 37 dBA. Its much better now for sound recording duties. So thanx for sharing! Also heat at 100 output with softbox attached is 49 C for stock fan, and 53 for noctua, for long run.
Mine w/ stock cooler runs @ 63c - 49c is impressive!
my godox has an error, it doesn't care. Where the temperature indicator is, EC appears. Can you help me?
Thanks for the recommendation of using A8 FLX as i’d have normally gone with ULN which would be insufficient.
With some major tweaks I also tried to fit Noctua 120mm ULN in (800 rpm, 8.6 dB, 74 m3/h), but for some unknown reason it doesn’t work and temp goes beyond 60°C at 100% setting.
Thanks for your sharing, do you think the fan work for Godox SL200W?
My best advice is stick with stock fan even if it's louder it should adequately cool your lights.
Thanks for sharing this video.
What do you thing about the fan : be quiet! Pure Wings 2 92mm ?
I tried to connect it directly to the godox. But it didn't work. I will try with cutting the wires and using the original "plug piece" instead of new fan's plug piece.
It should work with modification to mounting holes and you must cut the wires to original connector and connect to the connector the stock fan came with.
I tried to convert a 92mm fan to fit the SL 150 and it simply does not work. At this point I highly suggest stick with stock fan and save yourself the trouble I went through. New conclusion video coming soon.
I just Got my SL-150 and I want to replace the fan. If you would have to do it it again would you use the Noctua AF-N8 FLX? from what I understand you would change the fan. I would like to know what would be your choice before I change my fan please!
Most definitely DO NOT use AF-N8 ULN, I already took mine out and replaced with AF-N8 FLX. ULN will overheat at higher light output settings! Use AF-N8 FLX is the bare minimum in terms of heat dispersion for the SL-150W. I would probably go with Arctic F8 Standard amzn.to/2utn8fO instead of Noctua N8 because it costs 1/3 of price and have almost the same performance in terms of air flow and fan speed.
Interestingly, the original fan that came with SL-150 is actually a 92mm fan with an 80mm fan mount, so it's a lot more powerful (at moving air than the 80mm fan people typically use to replace it) My next project would be converting a Arctic F9 Standard fan (which is a 92mm fan with 92mm mount) to be able to fit the 80mm fan hole in SL-150. I don't think it'll be terribly hard, just need to drill 4 extra 80mm mounting holes.
But yes, you need to use an 80mm computer case fan with at least 2000 rpm fan speed, and preferably with a ball bearing fan instead of a sleeve bearing fan for higher temperature application.
Hope it helps.
@@TheGizmoGarage Thanks for the fast reply. With the AF-N8 FLX when you let it run for a long time and does it shut off because of the heat? what would be the temperature reading at 100% after a while? also when running at 100% in term of noise with the Noctua NF-A8 FLX how much quieter would says it is compare to the original one? 50% quieter even more? if you have good result i might start with that since i know it works. If i would switch for a 92 later on i would prefer to stay with Noctua because the price difference is not that much for me. which one would you use?
@@patrickseguin8967 Never ran it at 100% for that long since I rarely need it to be running at 100%, I used it at 90% brightness for about 30 min or so without a cover and the temp stays at 45C. At 50% brightness I think the temp was at 37C or so. I used electric tape to connect them so it's easy to switch the fan back for me if I don't like this setup much. I would use Noctua if price is not a problem.
Hi guys, I've got Noctua NF-A8 PWM, it has 4 wires. Have anyone tried to connect it?
When I try to connect 3 out of 4 ot is doesn't work. Maybe I should merge fourth one with one of others?
Wires:
Blue = PWM Signal (+5V)
Green= RPM Speed Signal
Yellow = RPM Speed Signal Red = +24V Black = Ground (GND)
My question, what should I do with blue?
I would just ignore the blue wire and cover it with electrical tape. If you were to plug it into a non pwm fan header on a computer motherboard the fan would work fine and the 4th pin wouldn't be connected
Why the company (godox) notice this problem and why the company update this problem
have you tried the
MASSCOOL FD08025B1M3/4 80mm Cooling Fan?
would love for you to try it and make a video
Also with you new Fan the Noctua AF-N8 FLX, if you use it lets say at 50%-60% is the fan noise at the same level of noise as when you use it at 100%? because i can see that with the original fan when i use it at 50% it produce less noise.
Interestingly, the fan noise is constant regardless of settings with FLX. It's noticeable but It's quieter than even the lowest speed setting of the original fan.
Below is the stock fan spec, you can compare it with 80mm fans and find out that 80mm fan is really a bit underpowered in terms of air flow need of SL-150.
The stock fan is a Progressive Model# PD922512MB-03
Air Flow 48.29CFM - 80 m^3/hr
Dimension: 92mmx92mm.25mm (with 80mm mounts)
Fan Speed: 2700 RPM
Fan Nosie: 33dB(A)
Voltage: 12v
Wattage: 3.6w
Fan design: Double Ball Bearing
Pin: Reversed 3-pin
Weight: 100g
I tried to convert a 92mm fan to fit the SL 150 and it simply does not work. At this point I highly suggest stick with stock fan and save yourself the trouble I went through. New conclusion video coming soon.
Oh that's disappointing! But when you switch it with the AF-N8 FLX it was it still working well before you try to change it again? because I think I will make the switch its too noisy with the stock fan! @@TheGizmoGarage
@@TheGizmoGarage Tried to convert the 92mm fan and simply does not work?
What do you mean by that?
could you dremel away excess material from non oem fan to fit better?
Might, but again you actually need a larger fan and drill holes to fit larger fan for the 150w light, otherwise it just doesn't cool properly.
Thanks for sharing this, I upgraded my SL-60 with the FLX (oops) and was wondering why it wasn't as quiet as the videos make it out too be. Just ordered the ULN!
If you bought the FLX (and haven't cut the connector off), it should come with a few different cables to lower the fan speed a little, that way you can get a good combination of quietness and airflow. I know SL-60 have less than half of power output of the SL-150 and I'd say the ULN will do the job just fine. I tested my SL-150 with the ULN yesterday by keep the light on at 50% for a good while, and the temperature stayed at 44C so it's not too bad in terms of airflow for the smaller light.
@@TheGizmoGarage I did try the connectors, but I'm going to give the ULN a shot anyways, it will be interesting to see if there's much of a difference!
@@JordanDanielWende The ULN have absolutely no noise at all!
i fix the master fan i am using variable resistor with lm317 transistor to control fan speed and in my test 50% max temp is 38C
What fan is recommended for the sl150 link please?
The stock fan is probably best, just a bit noisy
Is the Godox 200 quieter than 150?
You mean the Godox AD200?
thanks for sharing this video, do you try the FLX ? and there are any flicker issue after upgrading the fan ?
Yes I just installed FLX yesterday no flickering that I can detect, however the fan noise is now noticeable compared to ULN, but still quieter than the stock.
@@TheGizmoGarage Is it quiet enough to justify the upgrade? I'd like to get rid of as much of the fan noise as possible but I don't want to open it up if it's not actually going to make it quieter!
@@NickPiro Honestly, I used the light for a 45 min recording, and at 50% brightness the temp stayed at 40C, I really want to actually switch to a larger 92mm fan because I'm still not comfortable with the cooling efficiency of 80mm fans with the SL-150.
I tried to convert a 92mm fan to fit the SL 150 and it simply does not work. At this point I highly suggest stick with stock fan and save yourself the trouble I went through. New conclusion video coming soon.
@@TheGizmoGarage I may try it with a higher RPM fan. 2,000 RPM is definitely too little. You're gonna need minimum 2700 based on what the stock fan is!
The big reason your upgrade "failed" is that you used the wrong fan size. going from 90mm fan to an 80mm fan simply because the holes line up automatically reduce your efficacy by something like 27%compounded by a quiet fan that blows a little less air.... simply because the fan is not blowing air over the entire surface of the heatsink. Instead you should use a 3d printed adapter (free 3d print model on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4208793 ) and a Noctua NF-A9 FLX 90mm fan. This fan is rated at 38cfm compared to the stock rating of 47cfm (about 20% less airflow). After installing via the adapter I got the following results:WITH a 48" softbox aattached:
Stock fan: 100% power = 122 degrees F/50 celcius Sound: Loud, completely unusable
Noctua: 100% power = 134 degrees F/56.67 celcius Sound: very quiet, completely usable
Stock fan: 75% power = 107 degrees F/41.67 celcius Sound: Loud, completely unusable
Noctua: 75% power = 112 degrees F/44.44 celcius Sound: whisper quiet, very usable
Stock fan: 50% power = 93 degrees F/33.89 celcius Sound: somewhat quieter, borderline usable
Noctua: 50% power = 96 degrees F/35.55 celcius Sound: almost completely quiet, perfectly usable
Yes, with the adapter and 90mm Noctua fan, the light runs a little hotter. With a reported overheat cutoff at 158f/70c... the Noctua simply never gets close to that, and coupled with the fact that I personally rarely use the light at above 75%-80% power, I find the upgrade to be a cheap, effective way to "upgrade" the fan in this light and make it completely usable in sound recording situations. Even if the
This was so useful,. thank you! I might try this solution!!
I wish I read that earlier as I already ruined two fans in trying to fit them. Noticing on the second that it's literally impossible without a mount. Btw. did you try this? Thank you :)
@@Psiger I did do the upgrade... printed the adapter and it worked quite well. I wrote about the results in the original reply as well.
@@jdavidmusic thank you I missed the stuff which was collapsed. Thank you :)
the Progressive PD922512MB-03 (detail.1688.com/offer/568786210232.html) Air Flow is rated 48.29CFM - 80 m^3/hr even if you replace with an NF-A8 FLX you get huge lost of airflow (50,4 m³/h at max speed). The Arctic F8 is a bit better: 52.7 m³/h but still really not enough. With a cheap and easy 3d printed adaptor, you can use an Arctic F9 (73.1 m³/h ) who have almost the right air flow and is even quieter (we have to redesign few parts then we put the adaptor on Thingiverse). I try to find a solution to use an Arctic P12 who is almost silent.
surprised no one just take a water cooling block and mod a rad for this light.
Have you thought about a 80 to 92mm converter like this
www.ebay.com/itm/fan-adapter-converter-Multi-choice-25mm-height-square-change-mounting-mod-custom/282535006398?hash=item41c86610be:m:mQYtmNxa2P-mOlooIlUmMkA
There is plenty of space in the light to add the extra 25mm of depth and you can remove any material on the 80mm flange that will get in the way of the screws on the face near the heatsink. All Noctua 92mm fans do not have a high enough flowrate so you would need to look a other brands that are still relatively quiet.
Also there are some similar fans 92mm with 80mm mounts that claim to be quieter that would look to be a direct replacement for the stock Progressive fan. Flow rate is good and it is 3 pin.
www.newegg.com/global/nz-en/p/N82E16835106157
Can you post the URL where you got the specs for the stock Progressive cooler?
How are Aputure keeping the LED cool when they have smaller heatsink and less airflow. It is obvious that Aputure are allowing the LED to run Hot. These LED's have an operating temp up to 120 deg C.
Or more logically they figured something out in the engineering of the light to make the cooling better - maybe why it's severely more expensive.
The ballast is a big factor