I am also a woman. I changed out my rear brakes about 8 months ago and had a horrible time changing them. I actually had to leave my car parked in the garage for about 2 days to wait for my brother to help me. The car has a maintenance mode you have to turn on before you even take the rear tires off of. I did not know that and proceeded to try and take everything off. i broke the caliber and had to buy a new one. I took my car to the dealer ship to have tires replaced and they told me that i need to have the brakes done and that they could do it for 397. I was shocked and told them nah its ok. So now watching your video i will def have to try and change them myself. I mean if i mess anything up i will just call my brother again. But your video was very informative. thank you!!!!
Tara Aguilar That’s only probably cause you either hadn’t done it before or didn’t have the right tool. I just did rear rotors/brakes. Took me 70 mins. Had a frozen rotor that didn’t want to come off, and an issue w over torqued nuts on one side. I’m confident the next rear pad change will take me about 20 mins for both sides. Practice creates experience. This is one of the best videos on doing brakes I’ve ever seen..
You are correct. You do have to enter the maintenance mode in order to change the rear pads, due to the electric motor for the parking brake. The front pads are very straight forward and easy.
This was an EXCELLENT video. Covered the minor, but important details. I just did this on a 2017 Fusion. One wheel took me 45 mins to do cause I didn’t see this video first. 🤦🏽♂️ 2nd wheel took me 10 mins.. 😂
I did my front brakes today I'm a burger king manager not a mechanic but your vid helped me craptons did my brakes while front for 25 cash ty sir your the best
4:40 Rather than talking about it.... Don't let the caliper hang from the hose, the hose is not designed to handle that type of load (especially as it ages) Always hang the caliper with a wire or string to relieve tension on the hose. Also use a silicone brake grease on the allen head slider bolts. They allow free caliper movement so the pads wear evenly.
Just did this brake job for under $50. $30 to resurface rotors and scored some Wagner TQ brake pads on Amazon for $19 that were a customer return but brand new. Thanks for the video.
Great tutorial. I changed brakes on my old 2007 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab. I haven't tried on my 2014 Fusion yet and I'm due. I know dealerships charge a fortune for brake work!!!
I just ordered new pads and rotors to do this on my '14 Fusion. I've got 83k miles on original equipment and thought I was doing good (also, mostly hwy and I'm a conservative braker). They still have some life left, but I'll feel better once replaced (in a week or two).
You should use some caliper lube on them guide pins so that they do not seize up in the future. Stuck guide pins are 98% of the sticking brake issues I find out there. It has to specifically be caliper lube though, not regular grease.
Great vid! Nice to see you are a Ford Fam! Another tip.... make sure you have a 7mm allen before starting! It is not a common size and most packs do not include it! Yup, I had to run out and get a socket set that included it. If you buy OEM Motorcraft pads they come with the lube for the shoulder bolts. Rockauto is the cheapest I found at 53.00. I like to stick with OEM parts when possible on my Fusion and F150. 👍
Someone already beat me to that comment but I was going to say I always take an old brake pad lined up with the piston and the brake caliper and retract the brake piston that way and I always hang my brake caliper on the strut will have a coat hanger holding it therefore there's no stress on the brake lines
I have also made a habit of changing out the rotors at the same time. Just a little bit more work and money. Especially living in Michigan will all the salt and rust.
A trick I use when compressing the cylinder back into the caliper, is a small piece of wood. A 1X2 works good. That way you compress the cylinder nice and even. Other than that, easy peasy....
Oem looks semi metallic and the bendix are ceramic. Big difference in dust conversion onto rims, heat dispersion, and so on. Didnt look through comments but thought I'd add that
Nice explanations. I do it the same way, except that the performance of the OEM pads is so good ( both braking performance and wear) that I would Never recommend changing them out early for something else, which would most likely Not perform nearly as well, and with your careful brake use your OEM front pads are probably good for another 40 K miles. My fronts are just now approaching the need for replacement at 100 K, but funny that the rears needed replacement at around 60ish K, as the fronts do most of the braking and, so, wear out more quickly on most cars.
@@MicahMartinDIY Yeah. At first I thought there was something wrong, but I read that the rear brakes on the Fusion do most of the easy braking, while the front ones deal with the hard stops. I'm very light on braking and it's rare when I have to stomp on the brakes, so it makes sense.
The rearu have to use a tool and screw the piston down. Ive done many brake changed and c clamped the rear since i wasnt aware of the new tecnology and busted the caliper so yes and no that ford wants to charge a fourtune 😂 my rotors were 70 a pop (i got premium since i have a heavy foot) cant remember the caliper cost and the pads for all 4 tires were 78 for premium
@@tylerpennington1584 I too heard you had to screw the Piston back in. The first time I did my Fusion fronts I was ready, had the tool, then realized you could push them back. Glad to know it's the backs, saved me some money from pushing them back, thanks.
Dude, you was suppose to place break lubricant on the certain point on both front and rear of the break pads, otherwise good video...i'm about to change my break pads on my 2016 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 LT this coming week
Just finished watching the video don't forget to pump the brakes be for you take off there for you will be able to stop In time. And If it did call for dot4 oops
Couldn't help but notice your cover panels are off the bottom of the car. While they're on, you cant just slide the jack under there and lift the whole front end. Also, every time I changed pads without new rotors, I got pulsating brake pedal. Yours looked like they were not very worn at all. that's unusual. Change those rotors, people. Usually, there isn't even enough extra metal to turn them down safely.
Yes, I removed that pesky cover panel if I remember correctly. I have a lot of highway miles, so it's no surprise that the rotors were in good shape. I'd have no problem replacing them if they needed to be replaced. Sounded like yours were warped.
I just replaced my brake pads and rotors on my 2013 fusion energi at 158k miles. Honestly the pads and rotors still didn't even look that bad. The rear pads had worn more than the front pads but still had plenty left to keep going. I went ahead and replaced all of the pads and rotors and probably won't have to again for the rest of the vehicles live span.
This is a great video! I changed rear brakes and rotors (put in maintenance mode) now I need to do front brakes and rotors. I k NJ ow theres 2 caliper bracket bolts but is there another screw on the front of the rotor I gotta take out?
How’d they look with that mileage? My rears were completely worn at 88k and started grinding into the rotors. The fronts started squeaking at 67k. I’m about to change the fronts again at 100k.
Micah thanks for the video it is very informative. I just bought 2013 Fusion SE AWD and I wonder if there is a way to understand if the timing belt has been changed?
Dep[ends on the mileage. Most shops won't do it if under 100k. But I don't know if there ais a way to tell. I have 189k on my and have not had it changed.
Here I am looking for a reference as to why my guide pins weren't able to catch some thread and its because the piston was pushed out. Came to find also that it doesn't have the retaining clip nor the caps for the guide pins.
@@MicahMartinDIY not yet. I'm using basic tools like the jack that comes with the car and a breaker bar. Barely found a clamp that might work if used with a backing plate.
Never work with your legs under the car like that, anything could happen and you may not have time to get them out. Get you a stool to sit on Other than that good job.
Thanks Dennis! Everyone has a level of risk that they are okay with. I always use my parking brake, chock my wheels, use jack stand along with keeing my jack in place, and I always give the car a "shake test" before I am going to have any part of my body underneath it. But you are right, safety applies at home too!
Absolutely Samantha! I am sure that you can! So many people don't even try because they are intimidated, but if you think about it, once you get the tires off, it's only two bolts. You got this. Let us know how it goes!
Samatha, I'm also "Shade Tree" mechanic. They're pretty much a snap and well worth your time vs a $400 shop visit.. Scan the responses here, good info such as using the old pad to push the piston back in and keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir. I don't like scraped knuckles so I've Ebay'ed a 7mm Allen Socket. Also if you're using an cleaning fluids, make sure you don't get any on the pads themselves. I also noted that he mentioned the Fusion uses DOT4 (Dept of Transportation FYI) versus DOT3 brake fluid. I didn't know that and will check. Usually indicated on the Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap. Can be purchased at any Kragens, AutoZone...Lastly, lastly, I know some excellent female mechanics. :-)
It depends on what type of jack you have. Are you using a floor jack, bottle jack, or scissor jack (the one that comes with the car)? Be sure you have jack stands or blocks for safety and are on a flat surface with the emergency brake set.
Tory, I only learned about maintenance mode after making the video, but if your car has it, by all means, do it! FYI: my car was fine and I drove at least another 80,000 miles after this video with no issues.
@@MicahMartinDIY I know, that's what you do with regular brakes but I just watched a video indicating you have to open the bleeder valve or your ABS system solenoids could be damaged which is a $1500 repair. th-cam.com/video/H4YjsHPYxL8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_jfTjzWPtiPyA61M&t=431
Very helpful bro great job here. I’m not mechanical inclined to the least, but when I do work on cars or see someone doing it, I get crazy nervous 😬 when someone or me is under the vehicle lol. I always feel like it my fall.
Similar but don't try to push the piston in until you put the emergency brake in maintenance mode. There's another video which shows you how to do this as opposed to going to a mechanic with a "special computer" - you don't need a computer.
My local mechanic said something about being unable to do my brakes because of it needing a specific Ford computer to make sure the calipers actually work (?). He said it had something to do with the electronic parking brake. I'm wondering, did anyone else have any experience with that or is my mechanic full of shit?
@@MicahMartinDIY turns out you actually need a special computer to properly install new pads on your rear rotors because of the parking brake. The front brakes are fine, but the rears are gonna be ~$250 at a dealership or comparable shop.
@@biganimetiddies1287 Not sure what you would need that for. I've done my rear pads and didn't need anything special. They work fine, parking brake is fine, and everything passes inspection. It's been at least a year since I changed them too.
So this is somehow my fault? Thanks buddy! If you had just asked here and described the problem, I'm sure someone would have been willing to help. I don't get paid for this, I'm just trying to help as many people as possible.
I am also a woman. I changed out my rear brakes about 8 months ago and had a horrible time changing them. I actually had to leave my car parked in the garage for about 2 days to wait for my brother to help me. The car has a maintenance mode you have to turn on before you even take the rear tires off of. I did not know that and proceeded to try and take everything off. i broke the caliber and had to buy a new one. I took my car to the dealer ship to have tires replaced and they told me that i need to have the brakes done and that they could do it for 397. I was shocked and told them nah its ok. So now watching your video i will def have to try and change them myself. I mean if i mess anything up i will just call my brother again. But your video was very informative. thank you!!!!
Thanks Tara! I know that you can do it!
Tara Aguilar That’s only probably cause you either hadn’t done it before or didn’t have the right tool. I just did rear rotors/brakes. Took me 70 mins. Had a frozen rotor that didn’t want to come off, and an issue w over torqued nuts on one side. I’m confident the next rear pad change will take me about 20 mins for both sides. Practice creates experience. This is one of the best videos on doing brakes I’ve ever seen..
You are correct. You do have to enter the maintenance mode in order to change the rear pads, due to the electric motor for the parking brake. The front pads are very straight forward and easy.
Chock front wheels and put car in neutral worked for me everything else in this video was bang on
This was an EXCELLENT video. Covered the minor, but important details. I just did this on a 2017 Fusion. One wheel took me 45 mins to do cause I didn’t see this video first. 🤦🏽♂️ 2nd wheel took me 10 mins.. 😂
Thanks so much for the feedback! This is exactly why I started making these videos. I love being able to help people DIY (a dying art) and save money!
I did my front brakes today I'm a burger king manager not a mechanic but your vid helped me craptons did my brakes while front for 25 cash ty sir your the best
So glad I could help Jimmy!
4:40 Rather than talking about it.... Don't let the caliper hang from the hose, the hose is not designed to handle that type of load (especially as it ages) Always hang the caliper with a wire or string to relieve tension on the hose. Also use a silicone brake grease on the allen head slider bolts. They allow free caliper movement so the pads wear evenly.
Are the allen head slider bolts the ones that came out the back of the caliper?
Also can i use a little stand for the caliper to be supported on while i remove the pads?
Can’t believe he said let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
Thank you Sir. By far the most simplest and straightforward explanation. Much appreciated ❤️
You're welcome! Glad to help!
Great video. Wife’s fusion will be due for brakes soon. I’ll come back and definitely rewatch this video. 👊
Just did this brake job for under $50. $30 to resurface rotors and scored some Wagner TQ brake pads on Amazon for $19 that were a customer return but brand new. Thanks for the video.
Glad I could help Jackson! Nice job, Wagner is a good brand!
Great tutorial. I changed brakes on my old 2007 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab. I haven't tried on my 2014 Fusion yet and I'm due. I know dealerships charge a fortune for brake work!!!
Glad I could help! Good luck man!
You should use one of the old pads to push the piston back in
Thanks! Good tip!
If this man is doing it and flip flops you know it's easy thank you for your help
Haha! Yeah, not the safest practice, but you know...
I just ordered new pads and rotors to do this on my '14 Fusion. I've got 83k miles on original equipment and thought I was doing good (also, mostly hwy and I'm a conservative braker). They still have some life left, but I'll feel better once replaced (in a week or two).
Why do you need new rotors? Mine now have 166k on them and they are OEM.
You should use some caliper lube on them guide pins so that they do not seize up in the future. Stuck guide pins are 98% of the sticking brake issues I find out there. It has to specifically be caliper lube though, not regular grease.
Thanks for the suggestion Ben! I'll try to remember for next time.
Great vid! Nice to see you are a Ford Fam! Another tip.... make sure you have a 7mm allen before starting! It is not a common size and most packs do not include it! Yup, I had to run out and get a socket set that included it. If you buy OEM Motorcraft pads they come with the lube for the shoulder bolts. Rockauto is the cheapest I found at 53.00. I like to stick with OEM parts when possible on my Fusion and F150. 👍
Thanks for the Tips! Yes, I love my Fords. I am currently driving a 2020 Ranger and love it!
Like your video. Very informative. I like how you use simple tools cause lot of people can't afford specialty tools or dealer charges. Thanks.
Great feedback Gators! Glad I could help!
Someone already beat me to that comment but I was going to say I always take an old brake pad lined up with the piston and the brake caliper and retract the brake piston that way and I always hang my brake caliper on the strut will have a coat hanger holding it therefore there's no stress on the brake lines
Thanks Nick! Good advice!
Yes. I was going to say the same thing. Using an old brake pad with the c clamp works great.
I am doing mine in the good morning I feel pretty positive because of your great video wish me luck LOL
Good luck! You got this
I have also made a habit of changing out the rotors at the same time. Just a little bit more work and money. Especially living in Michigan will all the salt and rust.
Fortunately we don't have to use salt down here in Carolina! But I grew up in NY, so I feel you pain!
Great informative video and camera work!
Great video. Well displayed and explained. Well done. Thanks
Thank you JP!
A trick I use when compressing the cylinder back into the caliper, is a small piece of wood. A 1X2 works good. That way you compress the cylinder nice and even. Other than that, easy peasy....
Thanks for the tip!
Or use one of the old pads
Oem looks semi metallic and the bendix are ceramic. Big difference in dust conversion onto rims, heat dispersion, and so on. Didnt look through comments but thought I'd add that
Thanks Mike!
Nice explanations. I do it the same way, except that the performance of the OEM pads is so good ( both braking performance and wear) that I would Never recommend changing them out early for something else, which would most likely Not perform nearly as well, and with your careful brake use your OEM front pads are probably good for another 40 K miles. My fronts are just now approaching the need for replacement at 100 K, but funny that the rears needed replacement at around 60ish K, as the fronts do most of the braking and, so, wear out more quickly on most cars.
I agree Chris! Ford does a great job with brakes!
Put large flat head in caliper while still on car to compress pistons
Ah nice tip! I'll have to try that.
My front factory pads are still like new at 113,000 miles, but I had to replace the ones in the rear a few weeks ago.
That's odd! Most times front brakes get more wear.
@@MicahMartinDIY Yeah. At first I thought there was something wrong, but I read that the rear brakes on the Fusion do most of the easy braking, while the front ones deal with the hard stops. I'm very light on braking and it's rare when I have to stomp on the brakes, so it makes sense.
And to think ford wants near 400 bucks to do all your breaks 😂😂 this is to simple
brakes are cash cows for dealers - its an easy job on any car. Save yourself lots of $$ - do your own maintenance !!!
The rearu have to use a tool and screw the piston down. Ive done many brake changed and c clamped the rear since i wasnt aware of the new tecnology and busted the caliper so yes and no that ford wants to charge a fourtune 😂 my rotors were 70 a pop (i got premium since i have a heavy foot) cant remember the caliper cost and the pads for all 4 tires were 78 for premium
Dude I never have time so I called ford to change my brakes 459+ tax I was like wtf!!! I’ll make the time so save 300
@@tylerpennington1584 I too heard you had to screw the Piston back in. The first time I did my Fusion fronts I was ready, had the tool, then realized you could push them back. Glad to know it's the backs, saved me some money from pushing them back, thanks.
Firestone wanted to charge me $500 💀
Was able to use m- pact drill for my t45 bolts and red husky strap for decompressing.. I was scared yeah but it worked 😅
I'm glad you got it done!
Fusions have a setting that allows the piston to be compressed. Doing it without using this procedure could damage your brake system.
Thanks, I should do that next time.
For the rear electric parking brakes
Just rated you 5 Stars buddy. Great vid!!!
Thanks Ron!
Thank u for this video. I really feel like I can do this now.
You can do it!
Dude,
you was suppose to place break lubricant on the certain point on both front and rear of the break pads, otherwise good video...i'm about to change my break pads on my 2016 Ford Fusion SE 2.5 LT this coming week
I gotta do mine now cuz i hear it grinding now
What about bleeding the brake system to get any air out of the lines? Great video though. Thanks
Thanks Jason, I did not cover bleeding, since that is not necessary unless you open any of the hydraulic connections.
Just finished watching the video don't forget to pump the brakes be for you take off there for you will be able to stop In time. And If it did call for dot4 oops
Thats true and the most important he for got ...
Thank you so much for your help
Happy to help!
Couldn't help but notice your cover panels are off the bottom of the car. While they're on, you cant just slide the jack under there and lift the whole front end. Also, every time I changed pads without new rotors, I got pulsating brake pedal. Yours looked like they were not very worn at all. that's unusual. Change those rotors, people. Usually, there isn't even enough extra metal to turn them down safely.
Yes, I removed that pesky cover panel if I remember correctly. I have a lot of highway miles, so it's no surprise that the rotors were in good shape. I'd have no problem replacing them if they needed to be replaced. Sounded like yours were warped.
I just replaced my brake pads and rotors on my 2013 fusion energi at 158k miles. Honestly the pads and rotors still didn't even look that bad. The rear pads had worn more than the front pads but still had plenty left to keep going. I went ahead and replaced all of the pads and rotors and probably won't have to again for the rest of the vehicles live span.
Nice job! Yes, my 14 was always easy on the brakes.
Excellent video. Well made, great detail.
This is a great video! I changed rear brakes and rotors (put in maintenance mode) now I need to do front brakes and rotors. I k NJ ow theres 2 caliper bracket bolts but is there another screw on the front of the rotor I gotta take out?
Very informative. Thank you for the video.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Excellent tutorial, thank you.
Im just getting around to changing the pads on my fusion at about 167k miles, 97% hwy miles
How’d they look with that mileage? My rears were completely worn at 88k and started grinding into the rotors. The fronts started squeaking at 67k. I’m about to change the fronts again at 100k.
Micah thanks for the video it is very informative. I just bought 2013 Fusion SE AWD and I wonder if there is a way to understand if the timing belt has been changed?
Dep[ends on the mileage. Most shops won't do it if under 100k. But I don't know if there ais a way to tell. I have 189k on my and have not had it changed.
Can't you just loosen the top bolt and remove the bottom so you can just pivot the whole caliper up instead of taking it totally off?
I don't think that would work. You wouldn't have much clearance to get the pads out. It's only two bolts and they come out very easily.
Had to "persuade" the outside off lol. I too ran into this issue and I still couldn't get it off. They didn't look worn at all so I didn't bother.
Thank you Sir.
You're welcome!
Here I am looking for a reference as to why my guide pins weren't able to catch some thread and its because the piston was pushed out. Came to find also that it doesn't have the retaining clip nor the caps for the guide pins.
Oh man, that's crazy! Did you get it done?
@@MicahMartinDIY not yet. I'm using basic tools like the jack that comes with the car and a breaker bar. Barely found a clamp that might work if used with a backing plate.
Very informative, thank you.
Safety 3rd! That was shipboard life in the Navy!
Yup! I was in for 6 years aboard the USS Donald Cook (DDG 75).
@@MicahMartinDIY I was on the Fife and the Ray. Both Spruance. Thanks for your service.
Never work with your legs under the car like that, anything could happen and you may not have time to get them out. Get you a stool to sit on Other than that good job.
Thanks Dennis! Everyone has a level of risk that they are okay with. I always use my parking brake, chock my wheels, use jack stand along with keeing my jack in place, and I always give the car a "shake test" before I am going to have any part of my body underneath it. But you are right, safety applies at home too!
Hands are replaceable lol. Where can I get one?
There's a special on hands right now at Target. I picked up a couple...
Hi, I’m a female and I’m confident with this video I can change mine. Do you think so?
Absolutely Samantha! I am sure that you can! So many people don't even try because they are intimidated, but if you think about it, once you get the tires off, it's only two bolts. You got this. Let us know how it goes!
Samatha, I'm also "Shade Tree" mechanic. They're pretty much a snap and well worth your time vs a $400 shop visit.. Scan the responses here, good info such as using the old pad to push the piston back in and keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir. I don't like scraped knuckles so I've Ebay'ed a 7mm Allen Socket. Also if you're using an cleaning fluids, make sure you don't get any on the pads themselves. I also noted that he mentioned the Fusion uses DOT4 (Dept of Transportation FYI) versus DOT3 brake fluid. I didn't know that and will check. Usually indicated on the Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap. Can be purchased at any Kragens, AutoZone...Lastly, lastly, I know some excellent female mechanics. :-)
THANK YOU
You're welcome!
About to do a front brake job on my 17 Ecoboost Titanium. Where the best location to jack up the car?
It depends on what type of jack you have. Are you using a floor jack, bottle jack, or scissor jack (the one that comes with the car)? Be sure you have jack stands or blocks for safety and are on a flat surface with the emergency brake set.
@@MicahMartinDIY Thanks. I'm using a floor jack
Yo bro thank you !!!!!!!!!!
You're welcome!
Great video! What part of the car did you lift on with the floor jack? Kind of hard to tell in the video. Thanks!
I usually use an engine mount as a jack point and then put most of the weight on the jack stands.
How many miles do u have on those rotors? You didn't have to get them turned?
At the time of the video, I think it was right around 100k. But about 80% of my miles are highway, so no, I didn't have to have them turned.
You would do good to just leave the inboard pad on and compress cylinder using the c clamp against the brake pad rather than the cylinder -
You are right, I usually do it that way. Not sure why I didn't do it here.
No lubing the slide pins of backs and ears of pads?
Im constantly learning, but I've never had a problem without lubing slides and pads.
Did this not require the brake system to be put into maintenance mode?
Tory, I only learned about maintenance mode after making the video, but if your car has it, by all means, do it! FYI: my car was fine and I drove at least another 80,000 miles after this video with no issues.
That is only for the rear brakes due to the electric emergency brakes on the rear calipers.
Those must be ABS brakes. Don't you have to loosen the caliper bleed screw and drain the excess fluid out of the caliper?
No, I open the master cylinder resevoir and the extra fluid gets squeezed back up to it. No need to open the bleed screw unless your lines need bled.
@@MicahMartinDIY ok so basically the same as regular brakes?
@@MicahMartinDIY I know, that's what you do with regular brakes but I just watched a video indicating you have to open the bleeder valve or your ABS system solenoids could be damaged which is a $1500 repair. th-cam.com/video/H4YjsHPYxL8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=_jfTjzWPtiPyA61M&t=431
Quote of the day, “hand 🖐s are replaceable faces are not”
Very helpful bro great job here. I’m not mechanical inclined to the least, but when I do work on cars or see someone doing it, I get crazy nervous 😬 when someone or me is under the vehicle lol. I always feel like it my fall.
@Rick Stanley I had to remember the context I wrote that 😂 it didn’t make much sense to me at first @4:28
....I just checked pad prices @ ROCKAUTO - way cheaper !!! - not affiliated -
Thanks Chuck! I get my oil filters and many of my other parts at Rock Auto. Great prices!
You said allen wrench size is 7mm?
Yes, it is. The set you are trying to use is most likely standard instead of metric.
Micah Martin, thank you very much. Just get my break changed out
1:47
Peace to all my brothers and sisters out there with no numb nails.
Haha!
So does this method work to replace the rear brake pads?
Similar but don't try to push the piston in until you put the emergency brake in maintenance mode. There's another video which shows you how to do this as opposed to going to a mechanic with a "special computer" - you don't need a computer.
@@flatscreen83 thanks
😳
Is that an alen wrench 7mm
Yes 7mm
Just to clarify, it’s 7”/32 hex key?
Should be 7mm hex key.
i can’t get the clip back on
Oh man, I hope you got it!
WHAT DID YOU USE TO TAKE THE TIRE OFF WITH?
It was a Kobalt electric impact wrench. Great tool!
4:28 Wait what?
Hands are replaceable?
I bought me a whole new tool box and non of the wrench could fit
Does this apply to the 2015 se
It should be the same from 2014-17, yes.
Wat size c clamp
This one was a 6 inch.
11:10 LOL!
Haha! Right?! That's the key to success!
My local mechanic said something about being unable to do my brakes because of it needing a specific Ford computer to make sure the calipers actually work (?). He said it had something to do with the electronic parking brake. I'm wondering, did anyone else have any experience with that or is my mechanic full of shit?
Sounds sketchy... is it a place that is certified for state inspections? I'd call my local Ford dealer and run it past them.
@@MicahMartinDIY turns out you actually need a special computer to properly install new pads on your rear rotors because of the parking brake. The front brakes are fine, but the rears are gonna be ~$250 at a dealership or comparable shop.
@@biganimetiddies1287 Not sure what you would need that for. I've done my rear pads and didn't need anything special. They work fine, parking brake is fine, and everything passes inspection. It's been at least a year since I changed them too.
@Mason King, thanks! That makes sense!
Yep! I had to put the back brakes in maintenance mode last night, super easy!!
Disliked, my bolts just kept spinning and would not come off with no explanation in your video.
So this is somehow my fault? Thanks buddy! If you had just asked here and described the problem, I'm sure someone would have been willing to help. I don't get paid for this, I'm just trying to help as many people as possible.