Thank you! I'm from Chicago, hit during the big rain huge pot hole. Blew tire, rim. Took the wheel off - some parts were missing. 'Spring retainer" and some caps. After watching the video just bought a good set of break pads - and I'm back on the road. Thank you, sir, it was a big help!
Thanks for this awesome video! I just recently took my 2013 fusion for a GDI cleaning at the dealer. They told me I needed brakes as well. They quoted me $508! I've never paid that much for just brakes no rotors so I declined it. I'm glad I came across your video. I can do this myself!
Yeah they love over charging, and they probably were gonna put cheap pads on just so you had to come back sooner. For my '13 Fusion, I paid $377 shipped for top-of-the-line drilled/slotted power stop rotors and carbon ceramic pads on amazon! I plan to put them on soon. And that's not for just a pair, that's the whole set (4 rotors, 8 pads, all the hardware)
Pro-tip: don't let your caliper just dangle under its own weight like this. You'll put stress on the brake line and could cause it to pull off or worse yet, tear it. Use a zip tie or a bungee to suspend it. In a pinch, you can rest it on top of the rotor upside down, but be careful not to damage the shield, and not to put too sharp of a bend in the brake line.
It's worth noting that you should add grease to the the metal parts of the pad that metal-on-metal contact the caliper to prevent further sticking in the future. Your videos saved me from the surprise of needing a torx bit, I've never come across anything that needed a 45! Lots of cussing prevented lol
I have a Dodge Dart and there are lots of Torx fasteners. I started buying sets before this cat though cus I was coming across lots of Torx fasteners helping friends with their cars. Thanks though, good to know I need a 45 so I'm not spending time checking. Lol
thank you ! i was a little scared when the pad was fused to the caliper so glad to see you had the same thing! very helpful vid too, especially those PITA clips on the outside of them.
good instructional video.... I watched it before doing my 2014 Ford Fusion My car use a 7 mm Allen wrench instead of the T 45 torques which I was glad for because I don't have any torques tools that big
Change my front brake and rotors on my fusion yesterday. I used some akebono pads!. They are pretty thick. My caliper clips have like a 3mm clearance from the rim . Is that normal ?
I encountered the same challenge and the same solution. A 7mm allen wrench fits perfects on my 2015 Ford Fusion's caliper screws. Little extra work when you can't ratchet, but not a major obstacle.
Just a "Heads UP" to Fusion Hybrid Owners- I went to replace my front pads today because I heard a brake indicator giving me the audible signal a pad was low. To my surprise after 97,000 on the original pads it was not the front pads! Yep, it was the rear pads, which I've never seen nor heard of a car wearing out the rear pads before the fronts (typically at least two sets of front pads) but once seeing the front pads had approximately 75% of their original amount left I was bewildered.
I have been through rear pads twice on all 3 of my Fords before having to replace the fronts going back to my 2003 Windstar. My mechanic said with ABS now, it's more common to go through backs first for some reason. At first, found it strange, but the pattern is certainly consistent.
wow you make it seem really simple and easy.... unless it really is that easy on the Fusion. Thanks Ford for engineering something the masses can probably do.
Added to my list of things to get done. It's been a while since I changed the brakes, but that was on a different car. eh should have known it would be the same. Thank you so much!
Another tip is to open the brake fluid reservoir and draw out some fluid for when you recompress the caliper piston so you don’t push fluid out. Just replace fluid when you’re done.
75K? Wow! I'm at 130k and had my tires replaced last week. The tire guy said my pads looked fine. I'm guessing a difference in driving habit probably. A lot of my miles are highway, AND I tend to really try to use the regen braking to it's fullest, and that will also make the pads last longer. Thanks for doing the video! I ran over a piece of tulle fabric or something the other day, and I believe some of it got entangled in my ABS tone ring. No one's done a video on that one yet, but I figure the brake job video will get me half of the way there! lol
Brake sensors are typically very easy to replace. Take the wheel off and look behind the rotor/metal splash shield. There should be a wheels speed sensor bolted to the hub. It is normally held on with one bolt and a electrical connector on it. If the wire is damaged, then you can try repairing it, if the wire looks fine, the sensor could be bad or just dirty. If it’s dirty, just take it out of it’s slot and wipe it off.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I did a scan, then swapped my left and right wheel speed sensors and the problem is still showing on the right wheel, so it's not the sensor itself. I also checked the wires in the pigtail harness, as it is apparently a common thing for them to corrode (ford has a TSB about it). My wires all look good. HOWEVER, when I went to disconnect the right wheel sensor, I found some tulle or hairnet or fishnet fabric of some sort wrapped around it, right where it connects at the rear rotor shield. I'm thinking perhaps some MORE of that fabric may have gotten inside the rotor somehow, and it may be gumming up the works at the tone ring/sensor (I also have a right tone wheel - mechanical failure code). So that's where I'm at. I'm hoping I can at least be able to SEE behind that shield somewhat if I remove the caliper. I do have a little boroscope but I can't even get that in there with the rotor shield in place.
You don't need to turn any of them. I have 13 fusion and have done several brake jobs on it. Put the vehicle in 'service mode'. By doing so, you dont need to turn the rear calipers in, they will compress easily. The fronts will compress without turning regardless.
Will Tillo www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-21006-Brake-Spreader/dp/B00KCT1XMI/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=brake+caliper+tool&qid=1572911417&sprefix=brake+caliper&sr=8-12
The rear brakes are very similar except that you have to put the parking brakes into maintenance mode. Then you don't need any special tool to retract the cylinder. I'm surprised that you changed the brakes, instead of just servicing them, because the pads looked fine. I'm changing my rear brakes because they seized up due to lack of slider pin lubrication. But for the fronts, I only plan to service them, i.e. clean and grease, not to change them.
Thank you for posting this! Unfortunately, I couldn’t get those dang 7mm Allen nuts to budge and almost stripped the heads. What would you recommend I do?
a question 🙋♂️ why the small pc of the break points to bottom and when you done points to up ? It’s ok any way or you put it wrong position 😑 or don’t matter the position?
I followed video to the t. I have a 2016 titanium fusion. I drove it after and brakes r engaged while driving. Maybe I put the spring on wrong? Maybe it’s a brake line pressure issue? Anybody?
The bolts don't have to be at a certain torque setting? And does anything have to be greased? The guy at the parts store said a couple of things need to be greased and sold me a little packet of grease.
You can look up torque specs if you would like online. I’m sure they are out there. However they won’t be very high numbers. So snugging the bolts up as tight as you can get them will be more than enough. People used to put grease on the back of the pads to stop them from squeaking. Some pads you still need to, however 95% of pads made today won’t need grease. Unless you buy cheap pads.
i tried this with the ford cmax hybrid , and the piston was not having any of it . i even have the tool for doing it . so i still have new break pads waiting to go on the cmax hybrid , and can not do nothing with them yet.
Daciel Da Silva Normally you will start to hear squeaking. That’s normally the very first sign. Now if your rotors so happened to be warped you would feel that coming through the brake pedal as you slow down the pedal will seemingly be moving up and down even though you’re keeping steady pressure on the pedal. This is accompanied by some shaking in the front end. These two signs will be the most predominant. Aside from this you can take a flashlight and try and check the thickness of the pads through the spokes of the wheel. This is a very quick crude way of checking the condition of the brakes. You won’t be able to check the thickness of the inside pads or the back of the rotor of course.
@@Silva4452 could be many reasons. If the pedal is bottoming out, that sounds like you've got little to no brake fluid in the lines, and just mostly air. Not sure about the grinding, but that could be worn pads, a rock stuck somewhere, etc. Best to have a trustworthy mechanic take a look and give you a quote.
Rueagon Vyceratops Not sure I have never done them. They probably are electromechanical. They probably need to be placed into some type of service mode.
Do you have to do anything with the electric e-brake? The dealership is telling me they have to have it hooked up to a scanner in order to change the brakes. Thank you.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair we’re so lost. we took the bracket piece back on the rotor, and now the caliber won’t slide on because there are long bolts on the other side. what did we do
@bradyj0e did you replace the pads and rotors or just the pads? There are two sets of bolts Two that are holding on the caliper and two that are holding on the caliper bracket. If you took off the caliper bracket bolts, just remove the pads from the bracket and get that all bolted back together. Then install the pads, then install the caliper and then bolt that down.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair we accidentally took off the bracket, when just installing the pads, but it seems like you can’t install the caliber back in when the bracket is bolted in. our bracket has long bolts coming out of the end
Thank you! I'm from Chicago, hit during the big rain huge pot hole. Blew tire, rim. Took the wheel off - some parts were missing. 'Spring retainer" and some caps. After watching the video just bought a good set of break pads - and I'm back on the road. Thank you, sir, it was a big help!
Thanks for this awesome video! I just recently took my 2013 fusion for a GDI cleaning at the dealer. They told me I needed brakes as well. They quoted me $508! I've never paid that much for just brakes no rotors so I declined it. I'm glad I came across your video. I can do this myself!
Shenelle Browne wow! That’s a lot of money there! Glad you are willing to try it on your own. Good luck!
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Yep! I like doing small projects I can manage. Thanks for the good luck!
glad you didn't get robbed by the stealership.
Yeah they love over charging, and they probably were gonna put cheap pads on just so you had to come back sooner.
For my '13 Fusion, I paid $377 shipped for top-of-the-line drilled/slotted power stop rotors and carbon ceramic pads on amazon! I plan to put them on soon.
And that's not for just a pair, that's the whole set (4 rotors, 8 pads, all the hardware)
im curious did you end up doing this
Pro-tip: don't let your caliper just dangle under its own weight like this. You'll put stress on the brake line and could cause it to pull off or worse yet, tear it. Use a zip tie or a bungee to suspend it. In a pinch, you can rest it on top of the rotor upside down, but be careful not to damage the shield, and not to put too sharp of a bend in the brake line.
I always just keep a coat hanger or a flower pot hanger to hold the caliper up
I prop mine up on the rotors is that bad?
@@kvngthethird not at all 🤙🏾
@@Choppxnick bet
@@kvngthethird no I do the same thing
It's worth noting that you should add grease to the the metal parts of the pad that metal-on-metal contact the caliper to prevent further sticking in the future. Your videos saved me from the surprise of needing a torx bit, I've never come across anything that needed a 45! Lots of cussing prevented lol
Same
My suburban was the same way lol in the front at least the 2500s from 99-06 on the Silverados had them too I believe
I have a Dodge Dart and there are lots of Torx fasteners. I started buying sets before this cat though cus I was coming across lots of Torx fasteners helping friends with their cars. Thanks though, good to know I need a 45 so I'm not spending time checking. Lol
thank you ! i was a little scared when the pad was fused to the caliper so glad to see you had the same thing! very helpful vid too, especially those PITA clips on the outside of them.
Very straightforward explanation of a very simple brake pad installation. The rears are a whole different ballgame until you know how to do it.
What's with the rears? Is that where the regen braking thing happens?
@@beaukneaus Theres a special tool for the pistons. Can’t just use a C-clamp. Basically only difference. Brake pads are much smaller on the back.
Not true, you put the parking break into maintenance mode and you can compress the rear calipers like normal
@@rathax1how would u do that?
@@fearthereaper3758 they have some videos on it I recommend looking it up 👍🏼
good instructional video.... I watched it before doing my 2014 Ford Fusion
My car use a 7 mm Allen wrench instead of the T 45 torques which I was glad for because I don't have any torques tools that big
Change my front brake and rotors on my fusion yesterday. I used some akebono pads!. They are pretty thick. My caliper clips have like a 3mm clearance from the rim . Is that normal ?
I encountered the same challenge and the same solution. A 7mm allen wrench fits perfects on my 2015 Ford Fusion's caliper screws. Little extra work when you can't ratchet, but not a major obstacle.
Thank you for making this video. Now I may be able to do this for my wife's car without having to bug my son. Thank you again. Mike
Just a "Heads UP" to Fusion Hybrid Owners- I went to replace my front pads today because I heard a brake indicator giving me the audible signal a pad was low. To my surprise after 97,000 on the original pads it was not the front pads! Yep, it was the rear pads, which I've never seen nor heard of a car wearing out the rear pads before the fronts (typically at least two sets of front pads) but once seeing the front pads had approximately 75% of their original amount left I was bewildered.
Paul Harvey check my channel, there is a video on the rear pad replacement as well.
I have been through rear pads twice on all 3 of my Fords before having to replace the fronts going back to my 2003 Windstar. My mechanic said with ABS now, it's more common to go through backs first for some reason. At first, found it strange, but the pattern is certainly consistent.
Happened to me too!
My Ford Fusion SE 2019 had the rear rotors go out before the fronts also. Really weird.
I found that as well. Apparently it’s due to the design of the stability control system. It uses the rear brakes to help the system.
Great video. Will be doing the wife’s brakes this weekend. Seems pretty straight forward.
Minor detail, but this is the 2nd generation Fusion. Thanks for the informative video.
wow you make it seem really simple and easy.... unless it really is that easy on the Fusion.
Thanks Ford for engineering something the masses can probably do.
Iron Patriot most brakes on most cars are actually very easy to do.
Added to my list of things to get done. It's been a while since I changed the brakes, but that was on a different car. eh should have known it would be the same. Thank you so much!
Thank you for this video my uncle brothers sisters nephew son thank you
Thank you, that was very helpful and well done demonstration!
2013 ford fusion se has 7mm hex for the caliper pins
Another tip is to open the brake fluid reservoir and draw out some fluid for when you recompress the caliper piston so you don’t push fluid out. Just replace fluid when you’re done.
I appreciate the proper to install the pads thanx mane
Very simple and thorough walk through the brake job process👍Love it
Should we be putting grease where the pad ears sit in the bracket and on back of pad?
75K? Wow! I'm at 130k and had my tires replaced last week. The tire guy said my pads looked fine. I'm guessing a difference in driving habit probably. A lot of my miles are highway, AND I tend to really try to use the regen braking to it's fullest, and that will also make the pads last longer. Thanks for doing the video! I ran over a piece of tulle fabric or something the other day, and I believe some of it got entangled in my ABS tone ring. No one's done a video on that one yet, but I figure the brake job video will get me half of the way there! lol
Brake sensors are typically very easy to replace. Take the wheel off and look behind the rotor/metal splash shield.
There should be a wheels speed sensor bolted to the hub. It is normally held on with one bolt and a electrical connector on it. If the wire is damaged, then you can try repairing it, if the wire looks fine, the sensor could be bad or just dirty. If it’s dirty, just take it out of it’s slot and wipe it off.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I did a scan, then swapped my left and right wheel speed sensors and the problem is still showing on the right wheel, so it's not the sensor itself. I also checked the wires in the pigtail harness, as it is apparently a common thing for them to corrode (ford has a TSB about it). My wires all look good.
HOWEVER, when I went to disconnect the right wheel sensor, I found some tulle or hairnet or fishnet fabric of some sort wrapped around it, right where it connects at the rear rotor shield. I'm thinking perhaps some MORE of that fabric may have gotten inside the rotor somehow, and it may be gumming up the works at the tone ring/sensor (I also have a right tone wheel - mechanical failure code).
So that's where I'm at. I'm hoping I can at least be able to SEE behind that shield somewhat if I remove the caliper. I do have a little boroscope but I can't even get that in there with the rotor shield in place.
There could be a damaged reluctor ring, the “pickup” signal for the wheel sensor.
Excellent easy to follow video Brother !!
Thanks.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair where are You located ??
Bay Area.
Very good video. We'll spoken. Great work. Now do a whole 2091 Ford explorer. Your much better than chiltons... lol
Thanks for the upload!
Thanks for the video will try it and let you know how it goes!
Thank you for posting this!
Good video! Thanks for sharing.
Excellent job. Thank you for sharing.
Great video ty!
Dumb question I am sure, but hey I am learning here, when you pump the brakes should the car be running?
2013 and up you should use the square tool for the calipers. There suposed to turn back in place. There are notches on the caliper for this.
GUARDIAN TV Incorrect. The rear calipers do turn. The front do not.
You don't need to turn any of them. I have 13 fusion and have done several brake jobs on it. Put the vehicle in 'service mode'. By doing so, you dont need to turn the rear calipers in, they will compress easily. The fronts will compress without turning regardless.
Thank you 👍🇺🇸
Do you have to put it in service mode to do this?
Great video, very helpful. What type of push clamp was that? Can't find one similar online. Thank you!!
Will Tillo www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-21006-Brake-Spreader/dp/B00KCT1XMI/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=brake+caliper+tool&qid=1572911417&sprefix=brake+caliper&sr=8-12
Badass video much appreciated
The rear brakes are very similar except that you have to put the parking brakes into maintenance mode. Then you don't need any special tool to retract the cylinder. I'm surprised that you changed the brakes, instead of just servicing them, because the pads looked fine. I'm changing my rear brakes because they seized up due to lack of slider pin lubrication. But for the fronts, I only plan to service them, i.e. clean and grease, not to change them.
Thank you for posting this! Unfortunately, I couldn’t get those dang 7mm Allen nuts to budge and almost stripped the heads. What would you recommend I do?
Use on blaster to try and get them to loosen up. It’s like WD-40 but better.
Thank u my good SR 👍🏻
Thanks!
Are the brake pads the same size ( front and rear)? I will be replacing mine for the fist time at 100k miles now.
No they are not.
Hmm I thought the calipher's hydraulic pressure would close them again if you didn't keep clamping down the piston ?
Great video very detailed 👌
Thank you! 👍
Nice brake job for someone dressed in their pajamas!!
Proper work attire only
a question 🙋♂️ why the small pc of the break points to bottom and when you done points to up ?
It’s ok any way or you put it wrong position 😑 or don’t matter the position?
What’s your question?
I followed video to the t. I have a 2016 titanium fusion. I drove it after and brakes r engaged while driving. Maybe I put the spring on wrong? Maybe it’s a brake line pressure issue? Anybody?
Do you open the cap for the brake fluid just in case bubbles come up?
Negative, sometimes I do, most of the time I do not. Depends on how I feel that day I guess.
The bolts don't have to be at a certain torque setting? And does anything have to be greased? The guy at the parts store said a couple of things need to be greased and sold me a little packet of grease.
You can look up torque specs if you would like online. I’m sure they are out there. However they won’t be very high numbers. So snugging the bolts up as tight as you can get them will be more than enough. People used to put grease on the back of the pads to stop them from squeaking. Some pads you still need to, however 95% of pads made today won’t need grease. Unless you buy cheap pads.
i tried this with the ford cmax hybrid , and the piston was not having any of it . i even have the tool for doing it . so i still have new break pads waiting to go on the cmax hybrid , and can not do nothing with them yet.
You have to engage the brake maintenance operation. This loosens the piston so you dont have to press it. Videos on youtube
When I replace the snap on bracket, it keeps popping off when I hit a bump. I’ve put it on exactly as show and it STILL does it. What’s going on?
It could be broken or maybe it’s not on right.
Why didn’t you grease the slider pins?
How can you tell you need new brakes without taking the wheel out and all that? What kind of signs should I be looking for?
Daciel Da Silva Normally you will start to hear squeaking. That’s normally the very first sign. Now if your rotors so happened to be warped you would feel that coming through the brake pedal as you slow down the pedal will seemingly be moving up and down even though you’re keeping steady pressure on the pedal. This is accompanied by some shaking in the front end. These two signs will be the most predominant.
Aside from this you can take a flashlight and try and check the thickness of the pads through the spokes of the wheel. This is a very quick crude way of checking the condition of the brakes. You won’t be able to check the thickness of the inside pads or the back of the rotor of course.
I’ve got no squeaking but my pedal bottoms out and I’m getting this grinding like noise. Thank you!
@@Silva4452 could be many reasons. If the pedal is bottoming out, that sounds like you've got little to no brake fluid in the lines, and just mostly air. Not sure about the grinding, but that could be worn pads, a rock stuck somewhere, etc. Best to have a trustworthy mechanic take a look and give you a quote.
Will a milk crate be be best to hold the caliber
Whatever you would like to use. I don’t think there is a “best” way.
I thought on a hybrid there’s a procedure to disable the electrical system, so the caliper doesn’t compress back on you or your hand?
That’s the rear brake
Too easy. Thank u my fusion has 218,000 miles original brakes, its time
What t45 …. What happened to regular bolts
T45 are pretty regular bolts. Have been for a while across the pond and on most newer fords.
and all none hybrid cars i have owned , in the pass , it work like a champ . using the tool . so i dont know whats up with the ford camax hybrid.
Rueagon Vyceratops Not sure I have never done them. They probably are electromechanical. They probably need to be placed into some type of service mode.
Why don’t you clean up the caliper and housing with brake cleaner?
Don’t need to.
Put your videos on R umble.
Thanks
Do you have to do anything with the electric e-brake? The dealership is telling me they have to have it hooked up to a scanner in order to change the brakes. Thank you.
There is a method you can put it in maintenance mode you don't need an ODB II or scanner tool. Just look up how to put it into said mode on google.
They are cons, don't listen to them.
Don’t you need to put the vehicle in service mode?
only for rear brake replacement.
T45 works for me as a bit
You should have opened the brake fluid reservoir cap prior to compressing the piston.
So I do not need to bleed the brakes ???
Not if you follow the video and don’t open the bleeder valve.
Helping Hand Auto Repair okay just making sure thank you very much did front and back within hours
the rotor does not just fall off on a fusion hybrid.
Non hybrids dont have the same brakes/calipers.
My Wife’s S does
Have a part number (article ) for brake pads?
Just look them up online. Fcp euro will work great
Easy peasy
themahonster lemon squeezy
we accidentally took the bracket off, what do we do?
Put it back on
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair we’re so lost. we took the bracket piece back on the rotor, and now the caliber won’t slide on because there are long bolts on the other side. what did we do
@bradyj0e did you replace the pads and rotors or just the pads?
There are two sets of bolts
Two that are holding on the caliper and two that are holding on the caliper bracket.
If you took off the caliper bracket bolts, just remove the pads from the bracket and get that all bolted back together. Then install the pads, then install the caliper and then bolt that down.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thank you, why does the fusion have a caliper bracket. i swear no other car has this
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair we accidentally took off the bracket, when just installing the pads, but it seems like you can’t install the caliber back in when the bracket is bolted in. our bracket has long bolts coming out of the end
Give me please the article of front brake.
Alot easier to turn your wheel towards you to get to everything..Good video though
Why did you change those pads anyway? They was at a half of their life!?!
Alex Ostafi because they were squeaking and that’s what the customer requested I did.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair probably only needed to be cleaned up and re-lubed but heh its his / her $$$ so ......
You should always replace the rotors at the same time. Or turn them if anyone does that anymore.
Put those pads in dry
Great Job Boss. TH-cam/DJ undadirt. and. TH-cam/F a Mask 😷
The pads are brand new dude what are you doing
What I’m asked to do.