really glad i found your channel. i am restoring a 89 RM250 and this vid series will be very helpful with build process as well as the tools such as the stand.
sorry to see of your condition (o.c.d.) - as a fellow sufferer, these videos appease my condition (o.c.d.)! thank you for the time you put into making every one of these videos. I've shared your channel with other fellow o.c.d. friends of mine and hope to see your content blossom!
Hey buddy. Love the content. Beinge watching this. One thing I wanted to point out to you that I belive was overlooked. The right side crank seal was installed backwards. Easy to do as it happened to me. But I could cause oil/air leakage in the crank. The spring ring faces the oil.. Just a heads up.
Really enjoyed watching this series. Just in the process of restoring my 91 RM250 (not as a show bike just a seal service and overhaul, it is a rust bucket). I notice you fitted the clutch side crankseal with the metal cage on the outside. Lookin in the owners service manual there is a fiche (which appears to show it as you installed it) then further down a seal cutaway diagram that shows the spring location in the seals which would point to it being installed in the opposite direction, indeed looking on some forums it seems to be a contested issue with some even saying it makes no difference really and others saying go by the fish then others saying yes but if you read the whole manual it shows the seal orientation explicitly and the fiche isn't as accurate. My RM has the clutch side seal the opposite way to yours and when I spoke with my local Suzuki dirtbike specialists they also install them the way the service manual suggests (spring towards the gearbox oil)... any thoughts? Seems it can be a bit of a hot topic, plenty of other two strokes i've rebuilt have had both crank seals with the spring and open side towards the crank.
Unless explicitly stated in manual, I always have open side with spring towards crank. My reasoning is because the gearbox side has zero pressure, but the crank area can have a few PSI of primary crankcase compression from piston moving downwards. This pressure is important for the engine to run correctly. I believe sealing this gas pressure from leaking into gearbox is more important than sealing the gearbox oil from leaking into crank. My theory is that the pressure on the open spring side of the seal would help it to seal, in the same way that compression pressure gets behind the upper piston ring & forces it against cylinder wall to help with sealing.
Nicely done! I wish me 93 reinstallation of the crank into the case would slip in like yours did! Cant figure out whats the problem with mine. Did you put ur crank into the freezer and heat the bearing first or anything?
love the videos I have a 1991 rm250 myself but it wont shift I think its the ratchet cam not together or maybe adjusted wrong I'm not Shure by any chance in your next video can you talk about how to properly install it and possibly adjust it if that's a thing. Huge fan and thank you for your time keep up the good work.
I realize these are older videos, but you seemed to have an awesome parts kit. Did you buy that whole or just order all the individual parts? Could you recommend any kits? I’m starting this now on a 92 RMX250.
hi mate is that seriously all there was to the gearbox?? it seems a hell of a lot simpler than i ever imagined hence the reason i have always paid someone else to split my bottom end and check it over
I was wondering that also. Crank was a loose fit in bearings. Most are an interference fit & require a crank puller to fit. There is the occasional engine (Usually four stroke) where they are a slip fit. Crank bearing surfaces could have been worn.
I’ve only seen one man doing that fantastic work before, and that was my father. Congratulations.
The cleanest rebuild ever seen
really glad i found your channel. i am restoring a 89 RM250 and this vid series will be very helpful with build process as well as the tools such as the stand.
sorry to see of your condition (o.c.d.) - as a fellow sufferer, these videos appease my condition (o.c.d.)! thank you for the time you put into making every one of these videos. I've shared your channel with other fellow o.c.d. friends of mine and hope to see your content blossom!
Incredibly satisfying!
Brings back memories of me rebuilding my 93 RM125 a couple months ago
I have a 94 rm125 where did u get parts for the rebuild? I’m sure I’ll need to rebuild eventually
In my opinion this is the best part 👊
Hey buddy. Love the content. Beinge watching this.
One thing I wanted to point out to you that I belive was overlooked. The right side crank seal was installed backwards. Easy to do as it happened to me. But I could cause oil/air leakage in the crank. The spring ring faces the oil.. Just a heads up.
Once again thank you
Fantastic job!
Once again great!
Great vids i have the same year but mines the rmx, very helpful, i have to do main bearings. Thanks for the help man:)
Really enjoyed watching this series. Just in the process of restoring my 91 RM250 (not as a show bike just a seal service and overhaul, it is a rust bucket). I notice you fitted the clutch side crankseal with the metal cage on the outside. Lookin in the owners service manual there is a fiche (which appears to show it as you installed it) then further down a seal cutaway diagram that shows the spring location in the seals which would point to it being installed in the opposite direction, indeed looking on some forums it seems to be a contested issue with some even saying it makes no difference really and others saying go by the fish then others saying yes but if you read the whole manual it shows the seal orientation explicitly and the fiche isn't as accurate. My RM has the clutch side seal the opposite way to yours and when I spoke with my local Suzuki dirtbike specialists they also install them the way the service manual suggests (spring towards the gearbox oil)... any thoughts? Seems it can be a bit of a hot topic, plenty of other two strokes i've rebuilt have had both crank seals with the spring and open side towards the crank.
Unless explicitly stated in manual, I always have open side with spring towards crank. My reasoning is because the gearbox side has zero pressure, but the crank area can have a few PSI of primary crankcase compression from piston moving downwards. This pressure is important for the engine to run correctly. I believe sealing this gas pressure from leaking into gearbox is more important than sealing the gearbox oil from leaking into crank. My theory is that the pressure on the open spring side of the seal would help it to seal, in the same way that compression pressure gets behind the upper piston ring & forces it against cylinder wall to help with sealing.
Superlative rebuild. Cranks seals outside. Take note Kawasaki, you b#stards!
I cannot believe the bearings fit by freezing and heating by using domestic appliances!
Knife1437 I kno rite I would of just slapped them in lol oops
Nicely done!
I wish me 93 reinstallation of the crank into the case would slip in like yours did!
Cant figure out whats the problem with mine.
Did you put ur crank into the freezer and heat the bearing first or anything?
love the videos I have a 1991 rm250 myself but it wont shift I think its the ratchet cam not together or maybe adjusted wrong I'm not Shure by any chance in your next video can you talk about how to properly install it and possibly adjust it if that's a thing. Huge fan and thank you for your time keep up the good work.
Next video is on it's way soon. I have some basic footage of the shift mechanism. Hopefully that helps you out.
thank you
Nice video,you are best
I realize these are older videos, but you seemed to have an awesome parts kit. Did you buy that whole or just order all the individual parts? Could you recommend any kits? I’m starting this now on a 92 RMX250.
Check out mitaka on ebay,affordable quality kit!
You need to red locktite the outside of the race before you put them in the cases, this prevents spinning a bearing.
The interference fit of the bearing stops it spinning...
+ i have a question, do you need the case splitter and crank puller/installer tool to split it and put in back together? Thanks in advance
Where did you find a crankshaft for your bike at?
Fucken oath been waiting
what is the best oil to use in a gearbox on a suzuki rm 250 1998?
Where did you get the labeled rebuild kit?
You’d make a good aircraft mechanic
Where did you buy all your parts from?
hey mate, where did you get your hydroblasting done?
Pioneer Finishes in QLD
Where are you based? am hoping Victoria lol!
hi mate is that seriously all there was to the gearbox?? it seems a hell of a lot simpler than i ever imagined hence the reason i have always paid someone else to split my bottom end and check it over
Yes mate, that's all there is! If you are careful and reference the manuals you cant really go wrong. If you have parts left over, try again! :)
G9Garage just inspired some confidence in me for whenever i get to my next project :D thanks mate
That's awesome. Best way to learn is to have a go!
How did you get the crankshaft to go in so easily?
I was wondering that also. Crank was a loose fit in bearings. Most are an interference fit & require a crank puller to fit. There is the occasional engine (Usually four stroke) where they are a slip fit. Crank bearing surfaces could have been worn.
What music is this at 1:26 ends at 1:58 ?
did you rebuild the crank????
No, it was still in good condition.
What was he applying @5:13
Thread lock