VW ALH TDI injection pump head seal removal and install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Is your injection pump leaking fuel? Well, the pump head seal could be your problem. This process does take some time and is tedious. You need to be very patient and take your time to get this done right. Make sure that you use a new high quality T30 torx bit to remove the screws holding the pump head on. A worn out torx bit can strip the head of the screws and can lead to a bigger problem. The four pump head torx screws get torqued to 10-14 Nm (about 7-10 ft lbs.). This is a rather lengthy video, but I tried to cover as much as possible to help you with this repair. I wish you the best of luck and feel free to comment below.
T30 Torx Socket:
amzn.to/3hwotON
Bosch injection pump seal kit:
amzn.to/3E2ZxGu
17mm flare nut wrench:
amzn.to/3WZ14pK
Telescoping magnet:
amzn.to/3UBAFg6
Black nitrile gloves:
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24mm wrench:
amzn.to/3TzVebj
Diesel Geek injection pump head seal kit:
dieselgeek.com...
LiquiVac:
amzn.to/3DYdeX4
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Thank you, I just fixed my 2003 Golf. She lives for another day, thanks to your guide. Just have the brakes to do next. 👍
Good job! I'm happy that the video helped you.
Thanks. I have a LandRover Defender with similar pump. It started leaking and i don't want to remove it to replace the seal. The idea of the longer bolt and slipping the seal over the pump head is great.
Just make sure everything is clean and that you are careful not to cut the seal. Good luck with it!
Really well done! I am having a leak from the head as well. Glad to see this is doable.
Thank you!
Thank you for the video! Just fixed my son's 2003 TDI using your video; saved us time and money with this fix. Diesel Geek was also great to work with. Thanks again 👍
Glad to hear that. Good job!
Thank you!!! Your style and paced video is perfect!
I appreciate that! Thank you.
@@Corysdiyauto I liked that you showed the full re-assembly process. So many tutorials leave you dead in the water by saying "assembly is simply the reverse of removal" when there's always more to it than that.
Thank you!
Just did this on 1.9 SDI Polo. Thanks for the great instructions. No more leaks from pump head. :D As said from the Cory get a good T30 torx bit. I had a lot of trouble removing the bottom bolt on pump head.
Well done! Thanks for the comment.
odlican i poucan video. da sam ga video pre dve godine mogao sam ovo i sam da uradim. majstor mi nje skidao bos pumpu i odneo u servis gdje de servisiraju pumpe da se predihta. nakon ovoga vidim da me je prevario i dobro naplatio kao servis cele bos pumpe
Thank you!
Hello just wanted to say a million thank you,did this job last night and it a breeze with your video. Thank you
I'm happy to hear that! You're welcome and thank you for taking the time to comment.
Great work, congratulations ,👌👍👏
Thank you very much!
Getting ready to do my 2000 golf. 415,000 miles. I'm going to pull vac res.
To bleed pump... Get a hand transfer pump (harbor freight), pull teturn line at banjo joint. Shove / thread tube into pump. Pump until fuel present. Reassemble banjo. Crack line at injections. Crank engine until fuel present, tighten lines to injerctors. Start engine and check for leaks. A spray bottle with dawn works to wash fuel away.
Good job at getting to 415,000 miles!! Thanks for sharing your method.
Great job and very well explained. This days I have to do the same with my pump. Thank you very much for sharing this information ❤.😊
Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate that.
@@Corysdiyauto You did a good job and help me a lot with this video. Well done my friend and Respect 👏👍🥰
Great video! My car is back up running! Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome! Glad I could help.
Very good job thank u for sharing👍👍👍
Thank you!
Great informative step by step guide .
Thank you very much.
@@Corysdiyauto I have a golf mk3 1y engine 1.9d is this the same procedure?
@@dreammaker730 - It might be, but I am not sure if that injection pump is the same.
hi corey thanks for your video I have a leak but I am not sure if its the head seal or the head plug that is leaking but the diesel fuel leaks onto a bold just to the right of where the thermostat is. I hope its not the head seal its a job and a half.
Start with replacing the head plug seal first since it's the easiest. Hopefully that fixes it. I have a video of that too: th-cam.com/video/qZak2dzN11s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rPHno594DYjs8B4Q
Outstanding video. Can you comment on how to do the procedure with an automatic transmission? More specifically making the
center pin come out as far as possible prior to starting?
Thank you very much. You'll need to turn the crank by hand from underneath the car. It will be a lot easier if you have someone up top to feel the pin moving while you turn the crank or vise versa.
Great video step by step thanks bro
Thank you very much
Great Video ,i just did compete brake job was getn ready to go for a drive and notice a puddle , sure enough its i believe the head seal, and is how i found your awesome vids. What im tryn to understand is how far that drill bit needs to come out ? Couldnt see , and what moving forward inside thats setn up to move head out far enough to get to seal
Im determined to fix myself
Thank you for the comment. As soon as you feel the drill bit stop moving out, then stop. That's where you need to be. You'll understand what I mean when you do it. Just take your time and you'll get the job done.
@@Corysdiyauto Thanks for reply Cory , Im wondering now if say VW or Bosch has Ever Up Graded these seals and Orings to deal with the ULSD fuel , The problem with ULSD is lack of AROMATICS. They say rubber seals absorbed the aromatics and swelled. Have great Day
Great instruction! 😊
Thank you!
Hi! Thanks for the great and detailed instructions! I am up to this project on weekend. i had no change to obtain the safety bolt showed in your video (I only have the seal). I know a great disaster may follow if the head becomes completely off the pump. Would it be possible for you to measure the bolt so that I could utilise a bolt with same specs from a local shop? I really really would appreciate this and be grateful ever after.
The bolt is 55mm in length. Good luck with everything and take your time with it.
Hi
I have a Volvo 240D ,it s a 6 cylinders with VE Pump nearly the same , except I have 6 lines High pressure injection exit instead of 4 lines exit , do you know if I can do the same method with a 6 lines injection out ?? Please if someone done it ...?
Above all Congratulations a lot for your Safe method !!
You done a a great job 👍👍 , very useful.
It s a Good tips .
Thanks a lot for this share .
God Bless you
Mike .
Mike
I am not sure if it would be the same. Nice car though! Thank you for the comment.
Good work Cory. Hope you are still driving the Cruze.
Thank you. Unfortunately, we don't have the Cruze anymore. My wife accidentally put gas in it and it destroyed the entire fuel system.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Jetta 2003 tdi , pump is leaking. Diesel going underneath thru the vehicle till exhaust pipe. How much cost to fix , curious...
@@travelchannel7890 - I have no idea how much a shop would charge you for that. I guess it all depends on where the leak is coming from and the labor involved.
I need help turning it my car on after this any tips I bled line 1,4
2,3 for some reason dont get no fuel in the lines helpp😢
Leave the lines cracked at the injectors and crank until you see fuel coming out. You definitely have air in the lines.
Your videos are great, Cory! I watched the other video about the two top seals, that require VCDS. Does this head repair require VCDS? If you replace one seal am I better to replace all three now vs later? Lastly, a year and a half later is your fuel injection pump still rockin? Thanks!
UPDATE: Did the Head seal on my own one day last week and the other two top seals with the help of a local armchair mechanic who had VCDS just today. Couple of things I encountered: Fuel leaked out the head when I pulled the screws back and I definitely needed to prime the pump after reinstall to even get fuel to the cracked injector line heads. Maybe someone else won't need to but for what it's worth I primed the pump through the return line on the right side of the pump.
Next on the top two seals, I used a 9/32 regular socket hammered on (the triangular socket my friend had was misplaced), and this worked with very minimal negative impact on the bolt. Again, we lost a good amount of fuel when we opened, it (on a different day than the head seal) so you could consider draining it before starting.
Another thing, to double up on what Cory has done here, having both the Diesel Geek and Bosch Kit could be helpful as we are pulling out various little things that could use new seals while you are there, I didn't, and have no current leaks, but some food for thought.
These two videos were SO helpful, so thanks again Cory!
Thank you for the comment! This seal replacement doesn't require VCDS. Just replace the seal and you're good to go. It's up to you if you want to replace all of the seals. I just replaced what was leaking at the time, but it'd probably be a good idea and replace them all while you're at it. It's tedious work, so just take your time and make sure that everything is clean!
Yes, my injection pump is still working well and I'm still driving the car.
@@Corysdiyauto awesome thanks. Gonna jump into it this week. Didn't seem like you emptied the pump before you started. Do you recommend that and how? And same with priming it...I don't have a vacuum can I do both without?
@@kurt.loewen - There's no need to empty the pump. As far as priming goes, you'll need to leave the injector lines cracked open, then turn the engine over until it tries to start. Then tighten the lines and fire it up!
@@Corysdiyauto hey Cory. So was able to get all three seals done and now my pump is leaking even worse than it was at the head. It was great for about 3 days, and just today started.leaking again. Is it possible I pinched or nicked the o ring? It appears to be dripping primarily off the back bracket (towards engine) on the driver side but also maybe the front of the head (away from engine) on the bottom bolt. Any advice is welcome! It doesn't appear it is dripping from the big Triangular seal in the middle.of the lines....did I just get it wrong? I thought I was so careful!
Sorry to hear about your leak. You could have pinched the seal or maybe dirt got on it somehow. I'm afraid that you might have to remove and replace that head seal again. Just be sure that's where the leak is definitely coming from. I know that you've replaced a lot of different seals recently. Let me know how it goes.
Hi buddy don’t suppose you know the length of the bolt needed I brought a kit but didn’t get supplied the bolt? Thanks
It's 55mm
Dear Friend, in my country I can"t find Dieselgeek kit. I have Bosch kit pump repair kit but doesn't have the screw attached in your kit. Can you tell me how long is the screw included in your kit from diesel geek ? Thank you for your time and work. Best regards !
It's 55mm.
Great video, did you need to turn the engine over to put the injection pump "on cam"? Ive seen another procedure and they recommend pulling the top section off and then rotating the engine so the pump is "on cam", in order to keep the internals together. Is that necessary if Im just doing the head seal like you showed? Thanks
If you do everything as I did in the video, then you'll be successful. There's no need to pull the top section off.
@@Corysdiyauto awesome, thanks for the reply 👍
Hello , do i need to do a hammer mod after changing this seal ? I remplaced that seal witout the long screw and now i didnt have any fuel at the injector nut
No, you don't need to do the hammer mod. There's air in the system and it needs bled out. Crack all four injector nuts at the injectors and crank until fuel comes out. Then tighten the nuts and it should fire up. Have rags ready to wipe up the fuel. Good luck!
I tried to bleed , i crack all 4 and i crank for a couple Time like for 10 second and still dont have any dip of fuel
Did you have fuel before you started?
I removed the fuel supply line to the pump, and put a small electric fuel pump inline. Let it run for a while and it does the trick. That is how I discovered my pump head leak. Was priming it after replacing the IQ seals on top, and saw the leak while the electric pump was running.
(I don't plan to leave the electric pump inline)
Where can i fine the Viton Pump Head O-Ring Seal Kit in south africa 🇿🇦
I have a link in the description. I wonder if they would ship to you?
How to removed air bubble fuel line?
You have air entering the system somehow. Look for leaks and fix that first.
Hi Cory, I've got the very same engine 1.9 ALH 90PS, but I have just found out that there's no black (vacuum storage?) ball on it. It has already 620.000 km, they wanted to take it to the scrapyard and I rescued it, now driving it on a daily basis.
Do you know if it's important to have that ball? I don't know which role it plays.
It's a vacuum reservoir. I never ran without it, but it looks like you are, haha. I would get one if I were you. The brake booster requires a lot of vacuum and that reservoir helps as a buffer. The N75 valve requires vacuum to operate correctly, which controls the VNT. It's just more strain on the vacuum pump without the reservoir.
What was that vacuum that you used to bleed the system ?
It's called a LiquiVac. I have a link for it in the description if you want to check it out. It's not the right tool for the job, but it's all I had.
Hey thanks for the video used this to change mine so I got it to turn on after bleeding and everything but it turns off right after turning on any idea on what it could be ??
Hmmm. Did it run well before this? If so, you probably have air in the fuel system and it will eventually work it's way out. Are there air bubbles in the clear fuel line?
Yeah it worked perfectly before the seal wore out and was spilling gas everywhere so continue to bleed that line does have a couple air bubbles
So you would recommend to keep bleeding the air out and the line your referring to does have some air bubbles in it
@@DanielOchoa-wn1rg - Yes. Keep running it and the air will work itself out, unless you have another leak somewhere.
See that’s the thing it continues to turn off right after starting so
Won’t allow it to run so do I keep the hard lines cracked open a bit or do I close those ? When the hard lines are loose the fuel jumps out of there 8 inches but I don’t know if them being cracked open is allowing air in
Nice video I was trying to do this today too mine and when I broke the twelve mm bolt in the middle to put the drill bit in to see the point of travel. When I would doin my wheel it wouldn't make the drill bit move at all any thoughts?
Do you have a manual transmission?
@@Corysdiyauto yes it's the five speed
Did you put the transmission in 5th gear?
@@Corysdiyauto yea I'm thinking I found my issue I've been having with the car it runs good but down on power a good bit and I haven't been able to figure out why. My shifter is a little messed up it's a possibility it's in third. I'll dbl check in the morning
@boostedtdis - Get that shifter fixed! It'll make driving a lot better.
what size is that long bolt what you used
It's 55mm. Look at the description of the video and I have a link for the kit. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I have a ‘97 Land Rover defender with a similar problem. Injection pump head doesn’t have the brackets like this one but the leak appears to be dripping from the bottom T30 torx screw rather than the seal itself. Have you seen this being a problem rather than the seal? Or would the seal being worn cause it to come from a different area?
Thanks for the help
It could be coming from the pump head seal or maybe the center plug seal. Look very carefully with it running to see if you can pinpoint it. I have a video of the plug seal replacement here: th-cam.com/video/qZak2dzN11s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=7bzgq6-oROH67Tgd
@@Corysdiyauto is there anyway to attach a video to this thread?
@@danielleminichello6485 - You can copy and paste a link.
@@Corysdiyauto th-cam.com/users/shortsxtj5F17W1eE?si=zaobfmr1Q7DNnZ-U
@@Corysdiyauto there we go!
Hi,
I have been experiencing some issues with fuel supply from the EDC pump. The engine raises and settles down after a few seconds after starting the car. I have Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI ALH 2005 model. MFD shows 0.4 L/Hr at idle but keeps fluctuating ranging from 0.7 to 1.5 L/Hr at idle. When I try to drive a few metres, the engine stalls. What could be issue? i have recently serviced the nozzles and replaced the copper seals
Was it running fine before you replaced the nozzles?
@@Corysdiyauto I just got it cleaned and replaced copper seals. It was running fine. The problem started after adjusting IQ using Hammer Mod. The engine raising issue was there for quite sometime. It would stabilize in a few seconds. Someone had recommended to replace Fuel cut off solenoid's Oring. There is no leak in the solenoid. Can replacing the Oring solve? Or should i check fuel pressure regulator valve?
Did you have it connected to VAG-COM while performing the hammer mod? It's a very sensitive adjustment.
@@Corysdiyauto I dont have VAG COM. I set it based on 0.4 L/Hr displayed on the MFD. I read in a tdi forum that it would equivalent to 4.6 mg/str. It ran fine after adjustment and I drove about 5 miles. The fuel supply became inconsistent when the stated the car after a couple of hours
Hmmm.....do you have any fuel leaks?
Thank you for the video, im doing the same job today on my 1.9TD aaz. Can you tell me how long was the bolt included in the kit? Kit with shipping costs me 127$ which is way to much for 2 seals and 1 bolt and im trying to buy the bolt and seal separately :)
You're welcome. I will get a measurement later today when I get home.
@@Corysdiyauto It would be much appreciated! :)
EDIT: One out of 4 bolts was snapped off and thats why it was leaking... No need for measuring, the pump has to come off anyways now...
Oh no! Sorry to hear that. Good luck to you.
According to the DieselGeek website product description: " The 55mm Allen stop screw is used to keep you from pulling the pump head out too far" Hope you got your pump bolt replaced and working again!
@@bond007xxx Did not even need the bolt. I just carefully loosen all 4 screws and removed 2 bolts then installed the rubber seal then thightened 2 bolts back up and removed other 2 so the seal would sit in its groove and then thightened everything up and its leak free. But now the gas shaft bushing started leaking and needs to be looked over aswell.
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