VW mk4 tdi alh injection pump seals get replaced
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มี.ค. 2019
- In this video I show how to remove and install two seals on the injection pump for my Volkswagen Golf mk4 TDI with the ALH engine. The most important part of this job is to make sure you mark the location of the quantity adjuster before removing. You need to install it back in the exact same location! I got mine as close as I could with my marks that I made. Even though it ran fine after I put it all back together, I still took it to a friend and we were able to fine tune it with the VAG-COM software. The normal IQ value on a stock engine is 3-5 mg/str at idle with a warm engine. If the number is too low, then the engine is over fueling. If the number is too high, the engine is under fueling. I highly recommend that this be done!
Link for seal kit:
amzn.to/3haetGp
Triangular socket set:
amzn.to/3kBiuXh - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thank you for taking the time to note the important points and for avoiding unecessary information
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment.
Great Stuff. I have a leak as you described and a gasket kit on the way. This video has given me the confidence to proceed! Excellent job.
Thank you very much!
Excellent video. My top seal was leaking and after i replaced it i found it was hiding a leak on the bottom seal.
This video will make it easy to replace.
Glad you found it helpful.
I just ordered the seal kit for my 1.9 Asv diesel pump. Hope i ll repair it next saturday, your video helped a lot! Thank you so much!
Gerard salat estruga - Good luck with it and thanks for the comment!
Thanks Cory! Your videos inspire confidence. I actually replaced the head o-ring a couple of years ago and the quantity adjuster seal just started leaking during our first big snow fall here in Southern Ontario, Canda.
Santos - Thank you, I appreciate that. Well, it looks like you'll be taking it apart again! How much snow did you guys get? I used to visit the Hamilton, Ontario area years ago for work.
one of the best vit's and explanation.thank you so much . it helped me a lot
Karl euerl - I'm glad I could help. Thank you!
Nice video with perfect explanation.
Raymond Brown - Thank you!
Thank you for this video.
Thank you, very helpful video 👌🏼
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks I am going to give it a try.
Good Camera picture, Good explaniert🇦🇹💪👌
Thank you!
Excellent video
Thank you
Great Video thank you for posting it
Thank you
Thank you for your great video
KEN Brown - You're welcome.
Very helpful/ I can do it now. Thanks
I'm glad that I could help you. Thanks for the comment!
If your car doesn’t want to start when is hot is because the temperature sensor he replaced and it does throw a CEL however you can check it with VCDS it should be at 120°C when hot
very helpful video Thank you.
Michael 240v - You're welcome. Glad I could help.
Great content 👍👍👍👍
Barros Martins - Thank you!
Thanks a lot !!!
Kam impressed , very top Video
Thank you!
Thank you. Good work.
Alan Zarycki - You're welcome. Thank you.
I’ve listened to shops talk about this job needing to be accomplished from the bench. Your video proved the in vivo repair can be successful. Again, thank you!
@@alanzarycki2621 - Just take your time with it all, have patience, and everything should work out for you.
Thanks
Good job man
Amir - Thank you!
@@Corysdiyauto I bay set for repair and its cost 10Euro, and I changed the eraser in the same place as in the video. He threw a lot more fuel than you have in the video. The repair gays asked for this over 70 Euros (because they want to replace all the eraser, remove the pump, etc.) and here 70eru is 10% of the monthly salary hehehe. Thanks for the video you save me..
@@Amir-lj8ps - I'm glad that I could help. Repairs can be very expensive! It's nice to be able to do the repairs yourself and save money.
@@Amir-lj8ps where did you bought ?
@@granit96 In bosnia and herzegovina, standard shop for cars MOTOREX, 10Euro set
Hello Cory! Nice explanation of procedure. Do you know tightening torque of bolts?
Iago Toimil Mato - Hello there. The torque is 7-10 Nm for the 6mm screws which isn't much. Be careful not to over do it with these because you are threading them into an aluminum body. Thanks for watching!
Hey, Thanks for the great video, in the links you have in the description do both the 3 and 5 set of the special tool have to correct size tool?
Alex Nodge - I believe so, yes. I haven't actually purchased them to know for sure though. Thank you!
@@Corysdiyauto thanks man
Thanks going to do this job tomorrow. I wonder what the bit holder you have is that you are putting your torx bits into? I only know the ones already in a socket. Thanks!
I'm pretty sure that it's a Craftsman Torx set. It definitely comes in handy!
Thanks for this video, my car started leaking from the quantity adjuster seal after setting IQ on my new injectors. Shocker right?
This definitely helped me see that it’s an easy job compared to what I’ve already done to the car.
You're welcome and thank you for the comment. What injector nozzles did you go with? I'm due for new ones.
bonjour et merci pour cette video ,je vais pouvoir résoudre probléme golf3tdi 90cv ..
You're welcome!
Excellent video. Could you please tell me what year your Jetta is? I'm about to do this on my 2000 Jetta, and wondering if it is the same as yours?
Thanks.
Curtis Henshaw - Thank you! I actually have a 2001 Golf TDI. This process is the same for your Jetta because it has the same ALH engine.
@@Corysdiyauto Thank you Cory.
Hi i have a 2001 golf 4 1.9 tdi aswell, cranks and cranks and has air in the lines, we found a leak azwell, thanx for the video will try this🙏
Hi. Nice video. I have a doubt. Why do you change the temperature sensor? Defective or precautionary? Thank you very much.
yamahafzr400rr - Thank you. I just changed it while I was in there. It was a precautionary measure.
@@Corysdiyauto thanks so much
Hey man great video definitely helped me replace all the seals in my 2003 alh. Between this video and the other you did. That being said i just got done with mine but it wont start getting fuel to the injectors but still no luck. Any suggestions?
Thank you. I would leave the lines cracked at the injectors and crank until it tries to start. Then tighten the lines up and it should start. Hopefully that helps.
Well I replaced the top and bottom seal like in the video I set multiple alignment marks and now my vehicle runs really bad where did I screw up and how bad did I screw up the engine shakes like crazy and sounds like metal hitting metal
Sorry to hear that. I'm assuming that the mixture is off? You're going to have to take it to someone with VAG-COM to get it dialed in. What happens when you give it throttle?
On my ALH, the black piece on the injector pump is leaking. Will this reseal kit fix that as well? It seems like you didn't use everything that came in that kit.
Also, how did the car drive before being double checked by the vag com?
Corey Dabrowski - The seal kit includes everything that you need to replace all seals in the injection pump. I only used 2 seals out of the kit and I just saved the rest in case I need them in the future.
The car ran fine before checking it with vag-com. I was pretty close to where I needed to be because of the markings that I made. It was running a little lean, but we made the necessary adjustments using the "hammer mod" method with the vag-com hooked up to the car.
I just did this 12 months ago, resealed the pump, let it sit because I got called to a job in Texas (Im in Montana)
FINALLY got it running but it runs rough and tries to run away.
Just be careful.
@@sasquatchcrew I'm not sure how long ago I fixed this but since I only did the top seal, i wasn't too concerned about how it ran. I was still careful but it runs just the same
Great video thanks. Any chance there are any other obvious seals that could be leaking? I think my lower seal for the quantity adjuster is leaking but I can't tell. Car won't start, and pulling fuel through the return draws a toooon of air. There is a leak on the front facing side of the pump underneath dripping pretty fast when I try pulling fuel through with a little hand pump, so its definitely a big leak.
Any fuel leaks are bad and I would fix them immediately. The seal kit that I show in the video should have everything that you would need for the pump. Air isn't good for the injection pump, so try to fix your leak issues before you attempt to start. I know that it's a tedious job, but just take your time with it and do one piece at a time. Some people would just buy a new pump instead of replacing the seals. The choice is yours....... good luck with it.
@@Corysdiyauto Ended up getting the seal kit and triangle socket in this video. I attempted manually priming the pump with a small hand pump but I believe the leak is so large at this point it just can't run. For $30, I think that's getting the seals and trying the fix myself. Assuming I can get it running, I'd be happy to borrow a friends VCDS to adjust the IQA. Did you find in your case that lining the pump up with that marker kept the IQA relatively in check?
@@sgfreak96 - The marks that I made helped tremendously. After the repair, the engine ran just like it did before I disassembled everything. I highly recommend adding marks before disassembly. I just wanted to make sure that the QA was correct, so we checked it with VAG-COM and made the slight adjustments. I hope that your repair goes well for you! Good luck!
@Cory's DIY Auto why not do all new washers and seals/ o-rings?
I just chose to fix what was leaking at the time. You can choose to replace all of them if you want.
Hey Cory great video, do you know if this can be done on a 1.9 t4. Believe it's a mechanical ve pump. Cheers
Thank you! Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with that setup so I can't give you any advice on it.
Hey, I need to buy that socket and I can not find it anywhere? What did you look up or how did you find it?
The anti tamper one
Sam Fick - Check out IDParts.com they have the socket.
Where did I get tamper proof socket.Got a part #
Peter Lowry - The part number is T10366 for the socket. I purchased mine from idparts.com
Where did you buy temp sensor ?
Adam Fletcher - www.idparts.com/fuel-temperature-sensor-a3b4a4-2464509015-p-1142.html
What happends if bottom part is not lined up? I bought audi a6 c4 2.5tdi, same kinda pump. At startup car accelerates to 3k rpm and holds it there
Prev owner has taken pump apart and changed some gaskets
Thanks!
Leevi Partanen - I would take it apart and make sure that everything is lined up. Chances are that it's out of adjustment.
How do i make sure they line up? Car starts well and all. Could it be just the iq adjuster lever on the upper part
@@leevipartanen5460 - At 18:14 I am lining the shaft up with the hole. This part requires some patience. The previous owner should have made marks on the quantity adjuster so that it could be reinstalled as close as possible to the original position. If that wasn't done, then you will need VAG-COM to dial it in correctly by using the "hammer mod" method. This is done by tapping the quantity adjuster with the bolts loose to get the correct position. I hope that this helps.
I ment those yellow lines you draw, what kinda difference it will make if its not lined up
Leevi Partanen - The quantity adjuster will need to be adjusted. Your engine could be running too rich or lean depending on where it's position is.
Were can I get the seals cause I have been looking for them.. now my car doesn't wanna start in the morning
I have a link for the seal kit in the description.
Hi... after all that it requires to adjust the pump with the proper computer?
Adrian Cuevas Arana - You don't necessarily have to if you install everything back in the same exact position, which is very difficult. If you're off a little bit, that's fine. You might be running a little lean or rich depending on the position.
I have air in my fuel lines, could bad injection pump seals cause said issue? I noticed some fuel around mine when it runs but wondered if it would cause this issue i have since I've replaced a coukd of hoses so far
Shawn Mclouth - Well, since you've replaced fuel lines, that's probably how the air got in. When was the last time you changed your fuel filter? A dirty fuel filter will cause air bubbles to show up in the lines as well. If your injection pump is leaking, then I would definitely replace the seals because that leak will only get worse over time.
I replaced the fuel filter wifh the fuel filter plastic piece on top of it with the lines and have bleed the lines and primed the injection pump a few times now with no luck
@@shawnmclouth8102 - Did the engine run fine before? Do you have the ALH?
It ran rough when I bought it and its an alh, it let's quite a bit of raw fuel and miss fire once its given throttle and some times at idle too causing strong diesel smell out the ehaust if that helps
Shawn Mclouth - When my injection pump was leaking, the engine still ran fine, so I doubt that small leak of yours is the problem. How many miles are on your car? You might have worn injectors and/or a worn out injection pump.
Prior to reseal, did you have any issues with the car holding prime? Hard starts, long cranks, etc.?
Brian Cobern - I never had any starting issues. The car always started right up.
@@Corysdiyauto did you crack open the injectors and purge the air after you primed using your piece of fuel line? My car is leaking slightly from that top seal, which I'm glad you mentioned that you didn't need the vag com for quantity adjustment from just doing the top seal. But my larger problem is that the car won't hold prime.. so I seem to be getting air in the system; assuming it's from the slight leak on my top seal. I replaced the in-tank fuel sending unit this weekend, which seems to have helped when the car's running, it's just getting it running is slightly problematic... Thanks for the video.
Here's a clip of mine and the small leak I have.. I do already have the reseal kit on-hand, so I will be taking a stab at that now that I know the quantity adjustment isn't effected from just the top seal. I can't say for sure, but I don't think I have fuel leaking from anywhere else. Fingers crossed, at least.
th-cam.com/video/ich4sRVTSlg/w-d-xo.html
@@briancobern - I did watch your video, running on Gatorade huh? Hahaha. The top seal is easy to replace and I'm sure you'll have no problem with that.
@@briancobern - When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter? Do you use any type of fuel treatment? Always check the simple things first and go from there. A dirty fuel filter can cause problems! You can also try a diesel purge to clean out the injectors. I have a video on that as well. The injection pumps in these cars hate the low sulfur diesel fuel and a fuel treatment is a good idea. It helps to keep the injectors clean too.
Hello. I today changed these seals. So i do the same like you. But now when i start car its goes on full thortle.. and now i dont know how to regulate it. On which side?
Peteris Rudens - Did you mark the location before you took it apart? I assume that the engine ran fine before you replaced the seals, correct?
@@Corysdiyauto yes of course marked. Its in the same position. Only i think maybe this stick is not in plunger. Or i need more make regulation on left or right side. I have volvo v70 99y 2.5tdi.
@@Corysdiyauto but example i make wrong and not put that stick properly in plunger, it can goes on max rpm? And when car starts hard to stop it, only posible to stop car fast, is release pump bolts. Then its stops
Peteris Rudens - Maybe you didn't put it back together correctly? You might have to take it back apart to check and make sure unfortunately. I'm not familiar with the Volvo diesels.
@@peterisrudens4013 - My advice would be to take it back apart and make sure that the "stick" is in the plunger.
What type of injection pump is this?
Tibor Erdei - It's an OEM 10mm Bosch injection pump.
So after replacing the gaskets said something about hooking it up to computer
Yes, I have the info in the description. Make sure that you mark the quantity adjuster before disassembly. This will help you try to put everything back together in the same spot so that you can at least start and run the vehicle. The fine tuning comes in with VAG-COM. Your local VW mechanic can do this for you, unless you know someone with the software. I hope that this helps.
@@Corysdiyauto thanks yeah that should help
My pump seems to be leaking from the front plastic part with the 4 torx facing the front of the car, your camera is pointing at it at 15:21 anyone have any idea what that piece is called and if there is a seal to be replaced under it?
So, there's a seal under it, but it's not sold in the Bosch kit. I don't know where you'd get one. You can't easily pull that connection off either because of the internals. Soldering would be involved. Are you 100% sure that's where the leak is coming from? The majority of the time, the quantity adjuster seals go bad. Fuel can leak and travel around that electrical connector. Maybe you could try to tighten those 4 torx screws up and see if that helps?
@@Corysdiyauto appreciate the reply! I have tightened the screws up, as tight as I feel comfortable without cracking the connector, lol. And it stopped leaking for a bit but always starts leaking again.
@@TimmyTints - I was hoping you would get lucky by tightening those screws. Let me know what you decide to do with that. Mine will probably start leaking at some point as well.
@@Corysdiyauto I have an auto pump that's going to get swapped in at my next timing belt session, hopefully it doesn't also leak in the same spot, lol!
@@TimmyTints - I hope that you don't have any leaks at all. Good luck!
Would bad seals make air in the fuel line
Possibly, yes.
Que par de apriete Nm tienen los 4 tornillos?
It's 7-10 Nm. Be careful not to over torque those screws!
@@Corysdiyauto gracias!
What kind of vag com scanner do I need to tune injector
Donnie Aker - I would look at the Ross-Tech scanners for VAG-COM that will work the best. You can hook these up to your PC and make your changes/adjustments that way.
Your video was great and very helpful thanks for the information on the scanner
@@donnieaker9259 - Thank you and thanks for watching!
Why he changed sensor
Since I was in there I decided to change it.
How much mm diameter does the triangle bolt has?
Tiziano Santoro - I believe it's close to 13mm.
Ok thank you👍🏽
And how much Nm do i need for the bolts?
@@tizianosantoro3235 - About 7 - 10 Nm for the 6mm bolts which isn't much. Keep in mind that you are threading these into an aluminum body. Don't over tighten!
I'm have proable with air in the fuel line change the sending unit still air
Have you changed your fuel filter lately? Sometimes air can leak through those o-rings on the fuel filter tee. Also, that plastic tee could have a crack causing air to get in.
Hi, I have an AGR engine (Golf 4 1998) but the injection pump is very very similar visually. My engraved codes are 038130107D VW / 0460404977 Bosh. Do you think the seals kit is the same? What is the code of special tool (7mm)? Thank you.
Ajeje Brazorf - The engines are very similar, but not identical. I think that they do have the same style injection pump. The seal kit should definitely work for you. The tool to remove the triangular bolt part # is T10366.
@@Corysdiyauto I can confirm that the kit is good for my injection pump. Thanks to your video I saved some money!
@@Ajeje711 - Excellent! I'm glad that I could help.
how many millimeters is the anti tamper bolt socket?
You can take a 7mm socket and modify it to fit the triangular head.
@@Corysdiyauto wow modify? How will you do that?
Well, if you don't want to buy one, you can modify a standard 7mm socket to work on the triangular head. It's up to you.
@@Corysdiyauto yeah I got the heads today, it has two sockets 6.5mm and 7.5mm the 7.5mm fits slightly on the head but not completely. I'm.scared it might damage the head of the screw and I'm toast.
Get the right tool for the job and you'll be thankful. Hopefully you don't have any trouble.
What size is the triangle socket?
I believe it's 7.5mm.
@@Corysdiyauto Thanks. You are correct, it is a 7.5mm, I just checked the Bosch parts catalog description.
I really appreciate your video with the part numbers and detail. It gives me a very good idea what to expect when I do the work.
@@davidparker9676 - Thank you for the comment. I try my very best when filming to capture everything. I hope that the job goes well for you. Good luck!
Neither one of those socket sets you linked fit the ALH injector pump :/
hevitubi - Are you kidding me? That's not good.
@@Corysdiyauto Sadly, not kidding. :( I'm returning the sockets and have ordered one from dieselgeek.com that will work. Your video was great, though--very helpful! Well done.
@@hevitubi - Thank you. I appreciate the comment and sorry about the sockets.
Great video but why you used the tamper proof torx bits they can break doin this cause the inside is hollow and turn a quick job in a shit show if I didn't see it right in video sorry in advanced. 😂
Costas Georgiou - I did use the correct tamper proof socket without any issue. Thanks for watching!
@@Corysdiyauto so is that dirt on the bottom of the torx bit or were they the ones with the hole I was just sayin for future reference it's OK to use them but they will snap those look like the (I think it's a t30 h if I'm right) and all still like I said tho great video. You know whating on a mobile screen some stuff is hard to see correctly. How off was your fuel quality when you got to vagcom?
@@costasgeorgiou5015 - I understand what you mean now. Yes, those T30 Torx bits have the hollow center. They've never given me trouble, but they are a good quality tool. Good call though. As far as Vagcom goes, I was very close to my original position. I could've just left it that way if I wanted, but I was curious. I went to my buddies place and he hooked it up to his laptop and did some adjusting using the "hammer mod" and then I was good to go. I think I was running a little lean, but it's been a couple of years now.
@@Corysdiyauto that's great. I was watching your video to see what your quality was goin be on the vagcom but you never showed it I did one the other day on my may diesels and relized my vagcom was messed up but it's got to be a whole lot better without the leak! 😝
@@costasgeorgiou5015 - Yes, no leaks and I am happy!
My TDI Bosch pump is leaking fuel but it also have another problem, it blocks at 1400 rpm and you have to release the accelerator and push it again. When the engine rev up there's no problem. Might could this be due to the fuel leak or is it another problem?
Chris Masters - It sounds like you might have two different issues there. Did the fuel leak and acceleration issue start at the same time? Do you have a CEL illuminated?
@@Corysdiyauto I don't know if fuel leaks while acceleration bugs and I don't know if the cel light is illuminated. i got this old tdi for free but it has this issues. I wanted to ask if the leak could cause this problem, but since it always does it at 1400 rpm my pump probably has 2 problems probably with an inductor.
Thank you for your reply
@@chrismasters7373 - That's pretty cool that you got the car for free! Good luck with fixing it up and hopefully you can get everything sorted out. It sounds like you have several issues there.
What’s the tool part number
If you are referring to the triangular socket, then the part number is MN3001. I purchased mine from idparts.com. They have the seal kit there too.
@@Corysdiyauto thanks man , so was your timing off when you checked it with vag com? If so do you adjust it with the vag com?
@@Cs39601 - The fuel ratio was off slightly. I didn't even notice it when driving because I drove the car to my friends garage to have everything checked with VAG-COM. We had to make a minor adjustment using the "hammer mod" method.
@@Corysdiyauto I have vag com but new to the tdis , what’s the hammer mod ?
@@Cs39601 - The "hammer mod" is done by slightly loosening the injection pump screws and lightly taping the unit left or right to make the necessary adjustment. This is all done while the car is hooked up to the software with the engine running. If you do a Google search for it, you can read about the process more in depth.
I replaced it, but now the car won't start
There's air in the fuel system. Crack the fuel lines at the injectors and crank until you see fuel coming out. Then tighten the fittings and it should fire up.
@@Corysdiyauto This task is not for beginners.There will be a problem with the top.
@@EzioMardel - What problem?
@@Corysdiyauto It won't start.There is no air in the fuel system.
@@EzioMardel - If you are 100% sure that there isn't any air in the fuel system, then the quantity adjustment is off. Did you make markings before disassembly?
9:42 haha puts the rags in the wrong spot LOL