Every single implement I have, one of he very first things I do is permanently fasten the correct pins, etc. to the implement with steel cable. YES, I have to buy a lot more pins to begin with, but it is my belief that i will end up buying a lot more pins in the long run if I don't do this. But the BEST part is that I never waste my time running around looking or the right pin to use every time I am hooking up that implement! It is a HUGE time saver!
I use WD40 specialist dry lube on my 3 point bits as it doesn't collect dirt. Also, if you have a frame mount backhoe and no 3 point implements, don't wait a decade to take the backhoe off. It took me 2 days with heat and a air hammer to remove my backhoe the first time as it was seized solid to the tractor. my 2¢
As someone who spent way too long taking off a 3 point box scraper, and installing a (frame kit) backhoe today.. yeah, I can relate. :-) swapping back and forth isn't easy.
My lx2610 has been garage kept and never been in the rain and even the ball joints on my 3 point seized up. A little grease goes a long way. Just goes to show even in the best storage conditions, these parts still rust or seize up.
It's also fun that decades ago we made standards for what dimensions we should follow and kubotas stubby pto shaft too close to the driveshaft is still surprising to this day
I take the top link off when I don’t have an implement on the 3 point. Also, once they’re old enough and worn, those ball ends rotate freely without grease 😆. 40+ year old tractor here…
I once worked on a new tractor that didn't get much use. The balls in the arms were completely sized, but with the hole through the ball mostly blocked because of not being used. It took some time but i freed them up and lubricated them. With that they stayed good for the next year without being touched.
Great pointers for preventative maintenance. Small request when filming outside would you mind putting the equipment subject (rear end) toward the sunlight? Shadows made it a little difficult to see. Thanks for your continued videos always look forward to seeing these.
I spray WD40 on my three point balls. I think grease would tend to pick up dirt. I’m not a heavy user of my B2601’s 3-point hitch. Surely the comments on this video will be spectacular 😅
WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. Solvents will keep rust away but they won't stop the components from rubbing together and you'll probably cause premature wear if you don't use a light grease or even engine oil periodically.
Thanks for all your videos Neil, while replacing my fuel filters on my BX with it jacked up I was able to remove my cutting deck driveshaft ( knowing how to from your videos ) and lubricate it enough now to where its easy to remove and re-install it. I also found more grease fittings I had no idea were there. I may remove the mower deck to do some maintenance after replacing the filters thanks again for your video's.
Try silicone. Silicone is better than grease in this case because it does add a little lubrication (admittedly not as much as grease) but it will prevent dirt and things from sticking to the surfaces. Nifty on mowing decks, sliding doors, etc. too
I think the staying power for silicone isn’t very good. UV breakdown or just breakdown from exposure requires more frequent application? Not quite sure. I keep a can of PB Blaster Silicone around for just about everything.
Grease has always been a problem for me. It’s a pain. It’s annoying that the vibrations on the arms makes the implements move. I thought there should have two jam nuts on the links to links to keep the impotent from moving so much. The only reason why I don’t mind is because I check the implements for damage or potential problems after some use. I’ll try the graphite lubricant as someone suggested. Maybe it’ll help keep things cleaner.
Anything that I own that doesn’t have a grease zerk, I use transmission fluid in a squirt can, that’s what wood mixer recommends for it’s saw mills where there isn’t a zerk. Sawmill has been great for 10 years and going.
Very useful info👍. We have an 8 year old tractor and the 3 point balls dont really seize up. But its always better to grease/ oil them i have tried using grease and oil and both work fine💯
I bungee the top link to the stabilizer bars it is not in use - the problem is finding long lasting bungees that can sit outside for more than a few months without disintegrating. As others have mentioned, graphite dry lube on the 3 point will keep it from collecting dirt. All of the pins and other hardware used by an implement should always stay with the implement. Better to buy extras than to not have the one you need when you back up to the implement. This would have been a good opportunity to pimp the custom stabilizer bars!
Are the stories about using 3 pt hitch mounted backhoes warping frames true,,just bought a new 25 hp farmtrac and want to add a backhoe,,tractor has hydraulics fittings on rear from factory,,what is best route,,i would be using backhow to dig a small pond and some ditch work
Most people have no knowledge or skills to operate a tractor. They also have no real use for a tractor. They buy an expensive toy. Just because they can afford it does not mean the can use it or need it.
Every single implement I have, one of he very first things I do is permanently fasten the correct pins, etc. to the implement with steel cable. YES, I have to buy a lot more pins to begin with, but it is my belief that i will end up buying a lot more pins in the long run if I don't do this. But the BEST part is that I never waste my time running around looking or the right pin to use every time I am hooking up that implement! It is a HUGE time saver!
Fluid film on my B2650 three point balls
I use WD40 specialist dry lube on my 3 point bits as it doesn't collect dirt. Also, if you have a frame mount backhoe and no 3 point implements, don't wait a decade to take the backhoe off. It took me 2 days with heat and a air hammer to remove my backhoe the first time as it was seized solid to the tractor. my 2¢
Same with the loaders. Take them off anually.
My tractor rides better when using the rotary cutter if I take the loader off.
I found it interesting that you didn’t mention the importance of greasing the lift arm pivots. Perhaps that’s covered in another video.
As someone who spent way too long taking off a 3 point box scraper, and installing a (frame kit) backhoe today.. yeah, I can relate. :-) swapping back and forth isn't easy.
My lx2610 has been garage kept and never been in the rain and even the ball joints on my 3 point seized up. A little grease goes a long way. Just goes to show even in the best storage conditions, these parts still rust or seize up.
It's also fun that decades ago we made standards for what dimensions we should follow and kubotas stubby pto shaft too close to the driveshaft is still surprising to this day
Kubota follows iso standards, not sae.
I take the top link off when I don’t have an implement on the 3 point. Also, once they’re old enough and worn, those ball ends rotate freely without grease 😆. 40+ year old tractor here…
I once worked on a new tractor that didn't get much use. The balls in the arms were completely sized, but with the hole through the ball mostly blocked because of not being used. It took some time but i freed them up and lubricated them. With that they stayed good for the next year without being touched.
Great pointers for preventative maintenance. Small request when filming outside would you mind putting the equipment subject (rear end) toward the sunlight? Shadows made it a little difficult to see. Thanks for your continued videos always look forward to seeing these.
I spray WD40 on my three point balls. I think grease would tend to pick up dirt. I’m not a heavy user of my B2601’s 3-point hitch. Surely the comments on this video will be spectacular 😅
I do close to that. I use WD-40 as a cleaner, then use WD-40 Spray and Stay gel as a lubricant. I will never use grease again for those parts.
WD-40 evaporates quickly, light grease or engine oil is better.
WD-40 is a solvent, not a lubricant. Solvents will keep rust away but they won't stop the components from rubbing together and you'll probably cause premature wear if you don't use a light grease or even engine oil periodically.
Something my Dad taught me - start with the WD-40 to clean things up if necessary, then use some straight 30 weight engine oil in an oil pump can.
Thanks for all your videos Neil, while replacing my fuel filters on my BX with it jacked up I was able to remove my cutting deck driveshaft ( knowing how to from your videos ) and lubricate it enough now to where its easy to remove and re-install it. I also found more grease fittings I had no idea were there. I may remove the mower deck to do some maintenance after replacing the filters thanks again for your video's.
Nicely done, and informative video! Thanks Neil.
Try silicone. Silicone is better than grease in this case because it does add a little lubrication (admittedly not as much as grease) but it will prevent dirt and things from sticking to the surfaces. Nifty on mowing decks, sliding doors, etc. too
This sounds like a good idea. Is there no downside? Why isn't this the standard recommendation?
Fluid Film has proven to be a good product for me in keeping things lubricated and rust free. Tim in northern TN
I think the staying power for silicone isn’t very good. UV breakdown or just breakdown from exposure requires more frequent application? Not quite sure. I keep a can of PB Blaster Silicone around for just about everything.
Grease picks up dirt, use light oils if you notice it getting nasty. Lucas chain spray is nice.
Nice One Neil thanks again
Grease has always been a problem for me. It’s a pain. It’s annoying that the vibrations on the arms makes the implements move. I thought there should have two jam nuts on the links to links to keep the impotent from moving so much. The only reason why I don’t mind is because I check the implements for damage or potential problems after some use. I’ll try the graphite lubricant as someone suggested. Maybe it’ll help keep things cleaner.
Anything that I own that doesn’t have a grease zerk, I use transmission fluid in a squirt can, that’s what wood mixer recommends for it’s saw mills where there isn’t a zerk. Sawmill has been great for 10 years and going.
I get online to look for a three-point quick hitch, and find you talking about three-point hitch.
Very useful info👍. We have an 8 year old tractor and the 3 point balls dont really seize up. But its always better to grease/ oil them i have tried using grease and oil and both work fine💯
I bungee the top link to the stabilizer bars it is not in use - the problem is finding long lasting bungees that can sit outside for more than a few months without disintegrating.
As others have mentioned, graphite dry lube on the 3 point will keep it from collecting dirt.
All of the pins and other hardware used by an implement should always stay with the implement. Better to buy extras than to not have the one you need when you back up to the implement.
This would have been a good opportunity to pimp the custom stabilizer bars!
Are the stories about using 3 pt hitch mounted backhoes warping frames true,,just bought a new 25 hp farmtrac and want to add a backhoe,,tractor has hydraulics fittings on rear from factory,,what is best route,,i would be using backhow to dig a small pond and some ditch work
i use brake lube or electric grease
Or move along into the nineties and put hooks on the three point.
Mostly... learn to use the 3 point hitch.
And get a "Spud Wrench"
Your outro music is so loud, we can't hear the bloopers . . .
Most people have no knowledge or skills to operate a tractor. They also have no real use for a tractor. They buy an expensive toy. Just because they can afford it does not mean the can use it or need it.
As a mechanic for a dealership, it amazes me how dumb people actually are.... No common sense.
Common sense isn't common, I worked for an equipment rental company and I was amazed at the destruction.
exacerbate
I was coming here to say the same thing. Exasperate != exacerbate.