I was reading the comments of another of your videos where a fella said you reminded him of Ron Covell. Ron comes across as a lovely, understated, highly talented, gentle soul and is a pleasure to watch. I gave it some thought and I agree with the likeness. All the best from Western Australia.
Don't you worry about the length of your videos, as far as I am concerned they can't be long enough. I love watching your videos and I think that you deserve a whole lot more viewers. To my humble opinion your YT channel is far underrated. You make high quality and very informative content. I just enjoy watching your videos, it's far better then what cable TV presents me. You are a normal guy, and real, and it is not an act and it is without all the drama. And if people think that the video is too long they can fast forward or even skip some parts that they don't like. That's the nice thing about youtube, it puts the viewer in control, and the viewer doesn't have to endure all the repeating stuff and cuts while the viewers are watching, like the viewers have to endure when they are watching cable TV. Cable TV is destroying itself by making it unbearable to watch. They went for the money and forgot about the people. Big thumbs up from the Netherlands !!
The foam core is an excellent choice. The only possible improvement would be to make your own webbing out of the foam to A.) reduce the number of holes you need to drill to allow for resin impregnation, and B.) further stiffen the part by creating more places where the inner and outer surface are bridging together. But on a whole, there is no such thing as overbuilding when you're dealing with custom car stuff, there is only how stubborn you're willing to be about achieving the goals you set out for. You may have used more layers of carbon and more foam than you strictly needed to, but if your goal was to never need to worry about those panels being strong enough ever again, then I think you've done a great job of it.
Joel Marsh is, IMO, the greatest custom carbon fiber Creator. Great attitude, tremendously creative, and perfectionist. Like your vids and glad you hooked up with my fav.
Another tip is "phenolic microballoons" it's not as structural as "fumed silica" but it is 100 times easier to sand and to mix it like a putty. really enjoying your videos keep up the great work
You're a national treasure, man! This is absolutely satisfying to watch, so I can only imagine how it must be to have done it myself! Revel in that for sure!
Well done lay on the bed after you he’ll of a stressful week and smiled when you fitted the hood and the vendors. Had that darn yes man well done looks super cool.
I was actually just thinking about how you were coming along on your project this morning... Great to see you checking some items off of your list. Love your videos!
I've been really enjoying watching these carbon fibre panel videos. A lot of people don't do this cause it's not cost effective really, but you got the right idea - doing for the experience and learning opportunity. Good job
The first front end shot got me pumped to see how far you are now. I can only imagine what it would feel like for you as it's your project! By no means did you over do it. You've thought and planned it out, asked for help from several experts and learned from your mistakes. Job well done bud. Your videos have helped me a lot with my starting process, and my third test piece was my first successful resin infusion piece. So thank you for all the knowledge that you've shared from your own experience and that has been passed on to you. I am looking forward to my own custom motorcycle projects knowing that I have lots of great information that you've shared. Keep it up!
I made CF hood for a BMW M3 e36, it is probably a bit larger than what you have here, outer skin 3 plies of 220gr/sqm twill CF, inside ribbing was a 100% copy of the original metal frame, same 3 plies overall with extra 2 plies and some kevlar in places where the hinges will bolt on to and hood latches go wet layup and vacuum pressed both parts using full bags (much more reliable than just covering the mould, I highly suggest you use that to avoid problems with air leakage through moulds) , used 2 part semi elastic polyurethane glue to glue the 2 parts together, the hood was for motorsport rally application, plenty of rigidity and strength for that means it would definitely work for street application - finished weight 2,5kg + final paint job, just to give you a perspective of how overbuilt and overspent on materials you have your hood here, 7,5kg is A LOT for such a part overall the technique was very good, I'm not a fan of infusion though, the resin has thinners in it, so less strength, have to use quite a lot of it, it makes sense for some parts, but these hoods are way too simple and small to take advantage of what the infusion offers, just not worth the extra time and materials
Sorry - 7.2 kg is not a lot. Nope - Over your hood you've got 6 layers including your frame...for my hood I've got 6 layers. For 4 of those 6, the material I used is heavier weight, so I could have reduced a little there . I have no metal frame for the middle or edges. The frame is different than what you have. You've got holes in your frame and I've got a core and cores add weight. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I could have trimmed a little if I cared (I'll still take the 12 kg reduction - which wasn't the point...my old hood was damaged) - but you're comparing apples and oranges. I've worked through the details for my part and as I said, it's just how I wanted it. I suppose we could debate the relative merits of infusion, but you get close to optimal carbon to resin ratios and it works. The people I've consulted either infuse or use prepreg for these parts. I've not had issues with my moulds leaking air - they hold for days - I'm not bagging up both sides of a mold that is over 175 cm wide.
I love your music selection. The soundtrack is its own character in these videos. :) I just finished the mold for my C6 hood - thankfully, the original hood came out without issue - and getting ready to do the layup for the new hood tomorrow. Wish me luck.
The foam core is absolutely better than trying to use unidirectional strips crossways - stiffness increases according to the square of the thickness. Sometimes the most ingenious thing we can do is easier than what others say would "work better".
I probably could have done with a little different core pattern, but I'm happy with it. It was a while ago now, but there was some bonkers criticism in the comments on my habit of over-building.
i dont know what to say i'm speechless , man does that front end look great , personnaly even for a race car i would not go to the fleemzy level , foam add a bit of weight but even with that 7,2/20 it's like a third of the stock weight not much aftermarket racing panel can tell to be close to this ratio , i really mean it keep on going you are inspiring
I've been following you for a while now and have watched most of your videos. Its very inspiring watching you progress so much and seeing all the tips and tricks you pick up along the way! 🙌🙌
@@ThrottleStopGarage maybe I'll give it a try someday. I started watching your carbon videos, now I'm going back to the beginning and will watch them all. I don't know if you would like it here. i currently have a 45x55ft (whole building is 45x90ft) heated garage with a 4 post hoist. Its hard to think about going back to when i was younger working in a cold, dirt floor shed.
@@ThrottleStopGarage well... its kinda a mess right now. I've only been here 8 years so its not organized yet...😉 this time of the year its normally packed so you can hardly walk through trying to thaw out vehicles or keep the snow moving equipment warm so they start when i need them...
You are definitely my new favorite! My 04 v70R m66 is jealous and now wants carbon fiber parts..... Excited to see what you do with the 5 cylinder.... I am looking into building one in the future.
@@ThrottleStopGarage The bonus is your professional and calm demeanor...also no over the top graphical or sound production that most TH-camrs deem necessary by default. Keep em coming...
Brilliant, well done! Must feel great to finally have the front end (mostly) back together! I'm with you on adding the foam core to the bonnet, as you say, over that area it's well worthwhile putting it in. Do some of the fitment issues at the back dome from the difference in thickness between the sheet metal part and the composite part? (assuming there is any). Love the series btw.
Thanks - getting closer all the time. Material thickness may have been the problem as the total part is around 1.5 mm thicker in this location than the stock part. I didn't think the fit would have been that tight with the factory part but maybe it was. Luckily, trimming that excess off the flange was the solution and really doesn't matter.
Thanks! I'd say it is just about perfect. And it's great to see the whole process. It's the best tutorial in mold making I've come across, even if that isn't strictly your goal.
Great progress and great to see the experience path pay dividends. I really appreciate the level of explanation, your answering a lot of questions both in your video and here in comments and making a big difference. I've been getting a lot of great info from boat restorers like at BoatworksToday, which is great for materials and materials detail, but your videos take it the next critical step, mold making and laying up a part. Keep up the great work. BTW if you talk to compositenvisions let them know their sight is getting flagged by firefox browsers. I headed out that way to take a look and was warned off. Not sure why but if that clears up I edit this comment. Not sure how else to let them know. I'd like to see their product line but can't if its hot like that in a bad way. Most of the time its old sites that use old flash parts or something that makes them vulnerable.
Well that has to be a bullet proof hood !! Amazing video !! Question: You mentioned an number of folks at the Composite shop , Did you speak to them to get an estimate on the quantity of material need to make the molds and the carbon fiber material for the the parts? Did you do a video showing close up of the sticky tape pleating ? Are the "bags' meant to be that large or would a tight fitting bag be cheaper and less time to vaccum down ? LOVE THE VIDEOS!! Can wait to see the car all back together and rippin' down the road!! C
Foam core is ok, no pblm. Concerning infusion process, think about honeycomb soric 2mm that is better for the flow of the resin Moreover it lends better for curved shapes. By example a Porsche 914 front bonnet including the skin for the lights (it was for a racing car) dims130x112cm using gel coat + fiberglass 200g/m2 of short strand + 450g/m2 of fabrics on the outer side of the part to avoid printing of the honeycomb cell pattern + 1 layer 450g/m2 of fabrics = 6.1 kg. At the end you'll use less reinforcement and resin, so you save weight. Nice job.
I thought about using Soric a lot. For my doors - given their shape, I was able to use a scored and scrim backed foam. If my curves were more complicated, Soric for sure.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Moreover time consumption is better as no preparation making holes in the foam and no need to sand the edges. Try it, Soric all day long now with infusion :-) I use it for outer sides of the doors and bonnets/hoods but better to put 2 layers of reinforcement on this side to avoid printiong of the honeycomb cells pattern.
Not sure how long you typically have to wait for your hot glue puddles to cure, but when I need to move quickly with hot glue, I use a can of canned air turned upside down so that the refrigerant comes out and insta-cures the hot glue. Now, this will make the hot glue a little more brittle than slow-cooled (tempered?) hot glue, but for a jig like this, it might speed up your gluing time...
Not that long. If anything it will fail the first time if I don't get the glue surface clean enough. The glue also has to be really hot as the materials are generally quite cold. It's winter - so I'm trying to keep my garage heat up while I'm working on this stuff, but sometimes there is no point and I knock the thermostat down to 5° C and roll with it. When I'm wearing my jacket - that's when the heat's off.
You've inspired me to make my wife mad and turn the garage into a carbon fiber learning center lol. I'm gonna make my own custom carbon kevlar widebody panels for my car and see how it goes
@@ThrottleStopGaragehahaha!! I'm a welder that works from home so i may just add making carbon parts to my array of skills after i get good at it and maybe create a market where one wasnt before but only the future will tell.
Great job! I don't think you have over or under done it either. I am doing research into creating all new carbon panels to replace my plastic ones on my little smart car project. Very helpful, thanks. Have you seen ez composites videos on TH-cam? Also very useful
Contour Gauge, you can find them anywhere online and in many hardware stores. Be wary though, many are junk. I suggest looking at some youtube videos, and personaly prefer the metal ones.
Love your videos. Giving me confidence to try something like this on my own--a one-piece flip-up hood and bumper. My only question is: Why that particular model of Volvo?
22:16, isn't that sort of scary, though? I guess the hood isn't attached that solidly anywhere but the hinges, but is there no possibility of it cracking when you go around a corner? Maybe old cars on frames don't bend that much, I don't know... Oh, btw, it came out beautiful! thanks :)
New viewer, so I apologise if you've talked about it in a previous video... But what is that glorious tool you used to get the contour (to then transfer to paper)? And where can I get one? Great videos BTW!
great video very informative, i am currently planning on making my own carbon fiber hood but do not have a mold, that is the hardest part in my opinion. part of me wants to use the original hood but i do not want to damage it any suggestions?
In my episode on how to make a basic fiberglass mold (th-cam.com/video/dyj23IesF3s/w-d-xo.html) I use a friends boot lid to make a mold. I was told to not damage the part, so it was waxed and treated to a few coats of PVA. It released without issue. At the time I had not used chemical release agents (like Frekote 700-NC) - they have worked flawlessly for me since (with one exception in th-cam.com/video/A0Cs084p9AM/w-d-xo.html) - don't wipe them off - follow the instructions and they work great.
Good stuff..I'm doing bonnet and fenders on mine sometime this year..can you make doors with working windows? Keep up the good work!!!! I watch the aussie guy allso ...seems to do it with one hand behind his back,he does build race stuff so it's to a different requirement but similar process...🤔🤔🤔
I am just curious. How theese parts act in accident? It is old car, and crumpling zones where not available then, but what happens when you colide whit carmade that kind of material?
I love all your videos. Have watched every single one. I am sure this has been answered many times, but I probably keep missing it. Are you using polyester resin still for the mold making? How do you deal with the fumes if you are? From my research, it sounds like you can actually use epoxy resin with the fiberglass veil. Is that correct? Thanks for the info :) Looking forward to making some more of my own carbon fiber parts this winter. I made a splitter and wing for my autocross car a few years ago.
Hi Ryan - yes, this is all polyester. Stay tuned for the next video where I will switch the resin up to a mold making resin. You can see when I'm laying up the fabric on the mold that I've got the shop door open. It was very cold out, but I needed the air flow. You can use epoxy with fiberglass - it's just a lot more expensive.
It's so stiff (there are 6 layer in the skin and 3 more in the frame) it will not bend to shape. If the middle fits then the edges by the fenders will be up. I'm guessing the mold either shrunk or relaxed shape a little...and it is only a little.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Thank you very much for taking the time! I as well will try to make my carbon fiber hood made. One more question if I may please: I have to bolts on each side of the hood (where hinges connect), so for that part, instead of a adhesive mount nut, I will need an adhesive mount bolt? Does that thing exist?
@@redzone5655 It might...but most just make those. Add a plate and weld or something like that. You can buy perforated sheet and mount bolts through it.
On the hinge panel I used aluminum flashing material available at any home centre. I reinforced the back with foam board. The flanging on the latch panel was constructed with a corrugated plastic material called coroplast.
The frame really has to be done as a separate part. If your hood is modern (say 1965 forward) then it will have a sheet metal frame instead of a hinge/latch panel the way my hood was made. Then you just need to make the mold for the skin and another for the frame.
I have been wanting to get some carbon fiber sheeting and square tube to make a replacement rear insert for my 240 wagon to take out all of the rear seats and make a nice flat space in the back. We like to car camp in ours so it stays flat and I'm kind of tall so when the seats are down it prevents me from putting the front seat where I want it. I feel like it would probably pull 100lbs out of the car also.
@@ThrottleStopGarage When the seat is folded down it prevents my seat from moving far enough back. I like the idea of it being light. In our 77 argosy motorhome we replaced the standard plywood with coosa board. It is lighter and doesnt rot. I've been trying to talk my wife into letting me go composite with the cabinets as well but she isn't having it.
@@ThrottleStopGarage pause button can be a interruption and my Verizon tablet doesn't have that feature sorry I'm old school guy . Fiberglass and carbon fiber work is a hands on learning process your technical and veary helpfull bag of Tricks but some of your work is going so fast and i miss the point at times fasinnating work always a new, challenge .👍🐤🐤🔔🔔.
My hood was damaged. I also fail to see your point. I'm not gaining weight, the car is getting lighter - up high where it matters and in the end, it's both my money and my time. Free to waste as I see fit! I have really enjoyed the challenge and the learning that has gone into this phase of the project.
I was reading the comments of another of your videos where a fella said you reminded him of Ron Covell. Ron comes across as a lovely, understated, highly talented, gentle soul and is a pleasure to watch. I gave it some thought and I agree with the likeness. All the best from Western Australia.
Why thank you for saying this. Much appreciated.
Don't you worry about the length of your videos, as far as I am concerned they can't be long enough. I love watching your videos and I think that you deserve a whole lot more viewers. To my humble opinion your YT channel is far underrated. You make high quality and very informative content. I just enjoy watching your videos, it's far better then what cable TV presents me. You are a normal guy, and real, and it is not an act and it is without all the drama. And if people think that the video is too long they can fast forward or even skip some parts that they don't like. That's the nice thing about youtube, it puts the viewer in control, and the viewer doesn't have to endure all the repeating stuff and cuts while the viewers are watching, like the viewers have to endure when they are watching cable TV. Cable TV is destroying itself by making it unbearable to watch. They went for the money and forgot about the people. Big thumbs up from the Netherlands !!
Thanks - much appreciated.
Check off another box with a gorgeous, half the weight, stiffer part...I'm really enjoying this...just marvelous!
Thanks Ron.
Over engineered & half the weight! I love it!
The foam core is an excellent choice. The only possible improvement would be to make your own webbing out of the foam to A.) reduce the number of holes you need to drill to allow for resin impregnation, and B.) further stiffen the part by creating more places where the inner and outer surface are bridging together. But on a whole, there is no such thing as overbuilding when you're dealing with custom car stuff, there is only how stubborn you're willing to be about achieving the goals you set out for. You may have used more layers of carbon and more foam than you strictly needed to, but if your goal was to never need to worry about those panels being strong enough ever again, then I think you've done a great job of it.
Thanks - it's great to get some positive feedback. I'm always learning and trying new things.
Joel Marsh is, IMO, the greatest custom carbon fiber Creator. Great attitude, tremendously creative, and perfectionist. Like your vids and glad you hooked up with my fav.
Joel is fantastic. So helpful.
Another tip is "phenolic microballoons" it's not as structural as "fumed silica" but it is 100 times easier to sand and to mix it like a putty. really enjoying your videos keep up the great work
Thanks for the tip!
This has given me some more confidence to attempt making a custom hard top for my Triumph Spitfire, thanks for all of the tips!
Glad I could help!
This hood will never rust either! great work.
Thanks!
You're a national treasure, man! This is absolutely satisfying to watch, so I can only imagine how it must be to have done it myself! Revel in that for sure!
Thanks - much appreciated. It does feel pretty good but I know it's just the first step in body prep.
Well done lay on the bed after you he’ll of a stressful week and smiled when you fitted the hood and the vendors.
Had that darn yes man well done looks super cool.
Ya, we're getting there. One very small step at a time. Videos will be slow, but I'm on it every day.
I'm not a car guy, but I love watching you work through the process on each mini-project. Kudos!
Thanks Sean.
I was actually just thinking about how you were coming along on your project this morning... Great to see you checking some items off of your list. Love your videos!
Thanks Nathan. Progress is slow with these parts.
I've been really enjoying watching these carbon fibre panel videos. A lot of people don't do this cause it's not cost effective really, but you got the right idea - doing for the experience and learning opportunity. Good job
Thanks...learning how was always the point. Trying new processes is a lot of fun.
The first front end shot got me pumped to see how far you are now. I can only imagine what it would feel like for you as it's your project! By no means did you over do it. You've thought and planned it out, asked for help from several experts and learned from your mistakes. Job well done bud. Your videos have helped me a lot with my starting process, and my third test piece was my first successful resin infusion piece. So thank you for all the knowledge that you've shared from your own experience and that has been passed on to you. I am looking forward to my own custom motorcycle projects knowing that I have lots of great information that you've shared. Keep it up!
That's awesome. So glad that the videos have helped you.
I made CF hood for a BMW M3 e36, it is probably a bit larger than what you have here, outer skin 3 plies of 220gr/sqm twill CF, inside ribbing was a 100% copy of the original metal frame, same 3 plies overall with extra 2 plies and some kevlar in places where the hinges will bolt on to and hood latches go
wet layup and vacuum pressed both parts using full bags (much more reliable than just covering the mould, I highly suggest you use that to avoid problems with air leakage through moulds) , used 2 part semi elastic polyurethane glue to glue the 2 parts together, the hood was for motorsport rally application, plenty of rigidity and strength for that means it would definitely work for street application - finished weight 2,5kg + final paint job, just to give you a perspective of how overbuilt and overspent on materials you have your hood here, 7,5kg is A LOT for such a part
overall the technique was very good, I'm not a fan of infusion though, the resin has thinners in it, so less strength, have to use quite a lot of it, it makes sense for some parts, but these hoods are way too simple and small to take advantage of what the infusion offers, just not worth the extra time and materials
Sorry - 7.2 kg is not a lot. Nope - Over your hood you've got 6 layers including your frame...for my hood I've got 6 layers. For 4 of those 6, the material I used is heavier weight, so I could have reduced a little there . I have no metal frame for the middle or edges. The frame is different than what you have. You've got holes in your frame and I've got a core and cores add weight. I guess what I'm trying to say is that I could have trimmed a little if I cared (I'll still take the 12 kg reduction - which wasn't the point...my old hood was damaged) - but you're comparing apples and oranges. I've worked through the details for my part and as I said, it's just how I wanted it. I suppose we could debate the relative merits of infusion, but you get close to optimal carbon to resin ratios and it works. The people I've consulted either infuse or use prepreg for these parts. I've not had issues with my moulds leaking air - they hold for days - I'm not bagging up both sides of a mold that is over 175 cm wide.
I love your music selection. The soundtrack is its own character in these videos. :) I just finished the mold for my C6 hood - thankfully, the original hood came out without issue - and getting ready to do the layup for the new hood tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Good luck - fingers crossed.
The foam core is absolutely better than trying to use unidirectional strips crossways - stiffness increases according to the square of the thickness. Sometimes the most ingenious thing we can do is easier than what others say would "work better".
I probably could have done with a little different core pattern, but I'm happy with it. It was a while ago now, but there was some bonkers criticism in the comments on my habit of over-building.
@@ThrottleStopGarage As long as you hit your weight goals, overbuilding is called "safety factor", every engineer's best friend!
@@johngregory4801 Exactly! It's not a race car - it has to be durable long-term.
your project do your thing .. if you are happy with it that is what matters .. good thinking and excellent work .
Thanks 👍
Looks fantastic!
I really enjoyed, what is the tool name that you are using for matching internal shape of bonnet and using it for template
i dont know what to say i'm speechless , man does that front end look great , personnaly even for a race car i would not go to the fleemzy level , foam add a bit of weight but even with that 7,2/20 it's like a third of the stock weight not much aftermarket racing panel can tell to be close to this ratio , i really mean it keep on going you are inspiring
Thanks Quentin.
Sorry, maybe i just missed it. So, the original hood is 3x7.2 kg?
@@tomerik8516 yep he tell it in the video around 20kg
@@tomerik8516 The original was 19.5 kg.
great work again, the mighty Volvo is coming along nicely. regards Peter
Cheers Peter.
Awesome. Can’t believe the outcome. Beautiful..
That makes two of us. I'm happy with the result.
I've been following you for a while now and have watched most of your videos. Its very inspiring watching you progress so much and seeing all the tips and tricks you pick up along the way! 🙌🙌
Thanks Jake! It's been fun learning.
Want to take a road trip to Minnesota and build me some carbon panels for my t-bird?? Love the videos.
That's a very long drive!
@@ThrottleStopGarage maybe I'll give it a try someday. I started watching your carbon videos, now I'm going back to the beginning and will watch them all. I don't know if you would like it here. i currently have a 45x55ft (whole building is 45x90ft) heated garage with a 4 post hoist. Its hard to think about going back to when i was younger working in a cold, dirt floor shed.
@@AndyFromm So you're saying you can turn around and not hit stuff? What's that like?
@@ThrottleStopGarage well... its kinda a mess right now. I've only been here 8 years so its not organized yet...😉 this time of the year its normally packed so you can hardly walk through trying to thaw out vehicles or keep the snow moving equipment warm so they start when i need them...
great job, front end shot looked fantastic.
It's going to be very nice.
You are definitely my new favorite! My 04 v70R m66 is jealous and now wants carbon fiber parts..... Excited to see what you do with the 5 cylinder.... I am looking into building one in the future.
Thanks Marc. The whiteblock build is going to be a lot of fun!
Thank you for these videos. I have an unusual car build and this may be the only way I can get carbon body...at a reasonable cost.
I'm glad you found this useful.
@@ThrottleStopGarage The bonus is your professional and calm demeanor...also no over the top graphical or sound production that most TH-camrs deem necessary by default. Keep em coming...
Brilliant, well done! Must feel great to finally have the front end (mostly) back together!
I'm with you on adding the foam core to the bonnet, as you say, over that area it's well worthwhile putting it in.
Do some of the fitment issues at the back dome from the difference in thickness between the sheet metal part and the composite part? (assuming there is any).
Love the series btw.
Thanks - getting closer all the time. Material thickness may have been the problem as the total part is around 1.5 mm thicker in this location than the stock part. I didn't think the fit would have been that tight with the factory part but maybe it was. Luckily, trimming that excess off the flange was the solution and really doesn't matter.
Thanks! I'd say it is just about perfect. And it's great to see the whole process. It's the best tutorial in mold making I've come across, even if that isn't strictly your goal.
Thanks Fredy.
Great progress and great to see the experience path pay dividends. I really appreciate the level of explanation, your answering a lot of questions both in your video and here in comments and making a big difference. I've been getting a lot of great info from boat restorers like at BoatworksToday, which is great for materials and materials detail, but your videos take it the next critical step, mold making and laying up a part. Keep up the great work.
BTW if you talk to compositenvisions let them know their sight is getting flagged by firefox browsers. I headed out that way to take a look and was warned off. Not sure why but if that clears up I edit this comment. Not sure how else to let them know. I'd like to see their product line but can't if its hot like that in a bad way. Most of the time its old sites that use old flash parts or something that makes them vulnerable.
Thanks - I'm so glad you're finding these useful.
I'm jealous it came out just like you envisioned it
Well that has to be a bullet proof hood !! Amazing video !!
Question: You mentioned an number of folks at the Composite shop , Did you speak to them to get an estimate on the quantity of material need to make the molds and the carbon fiber material for the the parts? Did you do a video showing close up of the sticky tape pleating ? Are the "bags' meant to be that large or would a tight fitting bag be cheaper and less time to vaccum down ?
LOVE THE VIDEOS!! Can wait to see the car all back together and rippin' down the road!!
C
Thanks - I sure hope so!
ThrottleStopGarage you say "Its better to be lucky than to be good",,, well Sir, i do believe that you are VERY lucky and you are VERY VERY good!
Thanks - that's very kind.
Loved this 2 part series !
Thanks
So, stock arm fasteners can just be glued onto carbon/fiber just like that? Most excellent!
That is correct. With the correct adhesive and fasteners it's fine.
Damn that finish is awesome! Good stuff
Foam core is ok, no pblm. Concerning infusion process, think about honeycomb soric 2mm that is better for the flow of the resin Moreover it lends better for curved shapes. By example a Porsche 914 front bonnet including the skin for the lights (it was for a racing car) dims130x112cm using gel coat + fiberglass 200g/m2 of short strand + 450g/m2 of fabrics on the outer side of the part to avoid printing of the honeycomb cell pattern + 1 layer 450g/m2 of fabrics = 6.1 kg. At the end you'll use less reinforcement and resin, so you save weight. Nice job.
I thought about using Soric a lot. For my doors - given their shape, I was able to use a scored and scrim backed foam. If my curves were more complicated, Soric for sure.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Moreover time consumption is better as no preparation making holes in the foam and no need to sand the edges. Try it, Soric all day long now with infusion :-) I use it for outer sides of the doors and bonnets/hoods but better to put 2 layers of reinforcement on this side to avoid printiong of the honeycomb cells pattern.
great video. I learned so much from your channel. I am hoping to make my own custom hood and trunk this summer.
Great! Glad you're finding the videos useful.
Awesome! Love watching the progress!
Thanks Skyler.
I know you have a lot of trial and error , but you do make it seem effortless lol inspired us to make some of our own parts !
That's awesome. So happy that you've taken the plunge.
This is so cool! Looks really good too!
Thanks!
Polyester resin shrinks a considerable amount when curing, likely causing your fitment issues.
I've wondered if that wasn't the problem.
Can you move the center of the cowl down instead of messing with that beautiful Hood? That metal would be easy to work with. Thanks for the videos!
I thought about that - It's really no big deal to add the shape back to the hood.
Not sure how long you typically have to wait for your hot glue puddles to cure, but when I need to move quickly with hot glue, I use a can of canned air turned upside down so that the refrigerant comes out and insta-cures the hot glue. Now, this will make the hot glue a little more brittle than slow-cooled (tempered?) hot glue, but for a jig like this, it might speed up your gluing time...
Not that long. If anything it will fail the first time if I don't get the glue surface clean enough. The glue also has to be really hot as the materials are generally quite cold. It's winter - so I'm trying to keep my garage heat up while I'm working on this stuff, but sometimes there is no point and I knock the thermostat down to 5° C and roll with it. When I'm wearing my jacket - that's when the heat's off.
Well done Sir...Well done!
Thank you.
Excellent work, keep the videos coming.
Thanks Gay.
You've inspired me to make my wife mad and turn the garage into a carbon fiber learning center lol. I'm gonna make my own custom carbon kevlar widebody panels for my car and see how it goes
LOL - sorry...not sorry.
@@ThrottleStopGaragehahaha!! I'm a welder that works from home so i may just add making carbon parts to my array of skills after i get good at it and maybe create a market where one wasnt before but only the future will tell.
Looking really good man. Good show.
Thanks.
Great job! I don't think you have over or under done it either.
I am doing research into creating all new carbon panels to replace my plastic ones on my little smart car project. Very helpful, thanks.
Have you seen ez composites videos on TH-cam? Also very useful
1:54 that tool is genius!!!! Would have saved me so much time building my miata’s viper hood 😅
What is it called? Where can I get it!! Please answer
Contour Gauge, you can find them anywhere online and in many hardware stores. Be wary though, many are junk. I suggest looking at some youtube videos, and personaly prefer the metal ones.
R Cook idk I’ve done a lot of work by eye and hand. Even a junk one would have saved me tens of hours 😂
R Cook btw thank you!!
@@thunderbirdizations you are most welcome, happy to help. Good luck on your builds.
Love your videos. Giving me confidence to try something like this on my own--a one-piece flip-up hood and bumper. My only question is: Why that particular model of Volvo?
Thanks Megan. Because I love this car. There is no reason to do this for any car that you don't love.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Totally understand. Subscribed for the long run. ❤️
Awesome work 👏🏽
Thank you 🙌
Dang bro... sweet work! Likin this stuff, keep em coming. Cheers, Doug
Thanks Doug.
It's a lovely car the Amazon, it felt like driving a tank when I had one (in a positive way). Awesome job, restoring a piece of Swedish history!
Looks awesome
Thanks - it makes me smile every time I go in the garage!
Smashing.....Not quite sure how you did the fittings, were they just drilled and glued?
Hi Peter. The nuts have a glue flange and are attached with an epoxy adhesive.
great work
Thanks - it turned out very nicely.
Fantastic. Thanks for sharing.
beautiful work as always!
Really good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Great wee channel! got a love the canadians ay!
Keep up the good work 👌👍👍👍
I love it, over engineered that’s what us home builders do! Don’t listen to the naysayers, they generally aren’t brave enough to even give it a try 👍🏼
Thanks - much appreciated.
22:16, isn't that sort of scary, though? I guess the hood isn't attached that solidly anywhere but the hinges, but is there no possibility of it cracking when you go around a corner? Maybe old cars on frames don't bend that much, I don't know...
Oh, btw, it came out beautiful! thanks :)
They were flimsy...I think it will be just fine. I've basically added the internal frame it's missing.
I just wonder how much total cost that u hv to come up for all those fiberglass molds and the carbon fiber parts for all body parts u made..
Stay tuned. That video is coming.
nice work. thanks for the technique.
New viewer, so I apologise if you've talked about it in a previous video... But what is that glorious tool you used to get the contour (to then transfer to paper)? And where can I get one? Great videos BTW!
It's a profile gauge. Available from a lot of different vendors. www.amazon.ca/s?k=contour+profile+gauge+15&ref=nb_sb_noss
@@ThrottleStopGarage awesome, thank you!
Great video. I have a 1966 impala. Can you make me a trunk lid?
Sorry I don't make parts for people.
great video very informative, i am currently planning on making my own carbon fiber hood but do not have a mold, that is the hardest part in my opinion. part of me wants to use the original hood but i do not want to damage it any suggestions?
In my episode on how to make a basic fiberglass mold (th-cam.com/video/dyj23IesF3s/w-d-xo.html) I use a friends boot lid to make a mold. I was told to not damage the part, so it was waxed and treated to a few coats of PVA. It released without issue. At the time I had not used chemical release agents (like Frekote 700-NC) - they have worked flawlessly for me since (with one exception in th-cam.com/video/A0Cs084p9AM/w-d-xo.html) - don't wipe them off - follow the instructions and they work great.
Do you mind sharing where you found your fasteners
McMaster Carr is the source.
Well done, thanks for sharing
Good stuff..I'm doing bonnet and fenders on mine sometime this year..can you make doors with working windows? Keep up the good work!!!! I watch the aussie guy allso ...seems to do it with one hand behind his back,he does build race stuff so it's to a different requirement but similar process...🤔🤔🤔
Hi Shaun, You can build doors - but as this is a street car, I'm keeping the steel between myself and the randomness of traffic.
@@ThrottleStopGarage it is a street car but has a 8 point chrome molly roll cage...set up for drag but still street abel with rego etc..
I am just curious. How theese parts act in accident? It is old car, and crumpling zones where not available then, but what happens when you colide whit carmade that kind of material?
It will break, it won't bend or crumple. With enough energy, it breaks into many pieces. I'm hoping that my tubular front end will work if needed.
Dude I love your work!
Perfect!
Thanks!
I love all your videos. Have watched every single one. I am sure this has been answered many times, but I probably keep missing it. Are you using polyester resin still for the mold making? How do you deal with the fumes if you are? From my research, it sounds like you can actually use epoxy resin with the fiberglass veil. Is that correct?
Thanks for the info :) Looking forward to making some more of my own carbon fiber parts this winter. I made a splitter and wing for my autocross car a few years ago.
Hi Ryan - yes, this is all polyester. Stay tuned for the next video where I will switch the resin up to a mold making resin. You can see when I'm laying up the fabric on the mold that I've got the shop door open. It was very cold out, but I needed the air flow. You can use epoxy with fiberglass - it's just a lot more expensive.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Can't wait! Thanks for the info. Your videos are the best on TH-cam, and I get so excited every time a new one is posted.
@@RyanField Thanks!
Good day what kind of epoxy resin that you are using please tell me the name of the epoxy and the type thank you
Pro-Set INF-114 Infusion Epoxy with INF-212 Slow Hardener...in the description.
can't you pack the hood up on the mount instead of building it up with fairing compond?
It's so stiff (there are 6 layer in the skin and 3 more in the frame) it will not bend to shape. If the middle fits then the edges by the fenders will be up. I'm guessing the mold either shrunk or relaxed shape a little...and it is only a little.
Great job you do, I learn alot. Tnx👍
I really love You’re work. I have à amazon that i’m bilding in Sweden. Have always dreaming of a T5 amazon. Good work 👍
Thanks Chris. I hope to get to Sweden some day.
will it satisfy stiffness or can we drop in stiffness?
I don't know what exactly your asking. Could I have made it thinner? Probably - I'm certainly happy with how stiff it is.
what font did you use for the number 59 in your thumbnail?
Exotc350 Bd BT is the font.
Hi, what are the name of those bolt female threads shown at minute 17?
Adhesive mount nuts - www.mcmaster.com/nuts/nut-type~adhesive-mount/
@@ThrottleStopGarage Thank you very much for taking the time! I as well will try to make my carbon fiber hood made. One more question if I may please: I have to bolts on each side of the hood (where hinges connect), so for that part, instead of a adhesive mount nut, I will need an adhesive mount bolt? Does that thing exist?
@@redzone5655 It might...but most just make those. Add a plate and weld or something like that. You can buy perforated sheet and mount bolts through it.
hey its me again! what did you use for flanges? i couldnt understand hehehe maybe i´m just too tired!
On the hinge panel I used aluminum flashing material available at any home centre. I reinforced the back with foam board. The flanging on the latch panel was constructed with a corrugated plastic material called coroplast.
How much for materials for the hood amd the fenders?
I'm covering this in an upcoming episode. Stay tuned.
good job!
Thanks
The music so classic cracks me up 🤣
Almost didn't want to hit like. Was spot on 420
Making separate pieces vs all one piece/ pros and cons.
The frame really has to be done as a separate part. If your hood is modern (say 1965 forward) then it will have a sheet metal frame instead of a hinge/latch panel the way my hood was made. Then you just need to make the mold for the skin and another for the frame.
Love the MCM flag in the back :D
I'm not sure where that flag got to...I'll see if I can find it.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Also, I love your stuff. Keep it up!
@@totoro001 Thanks.
You could have done all this with carbon fiber vacuum infusion. I understand you are trying to make it look factory
I did do all this using vacuum infusion.
@@ThrottleStopGarage I don't know how to explain what I'm trying say over text
Wow.. nice build sir. And i love your Mighty Car Mods "chopped" banner/flag🤗🤗🤗
Go ahead and make me a 240 hood and fenders :)
A lot easier now that I have a clue. Oh and I do own a 242 and 245.
@@ThrottleStopGarage There we go. I have a 93 classic wagon and a 90 sedan 240.
I have been wanting to get some carbon fiber sheeting and square tube to make a replacement rear insert for my 240 wagon to take out all of the rear seats and make a nice flat space in the back. We like to car camp in ours so it stays flat and I'm kind of tall so when the seats are down it prevents me from putting the front seat where I want it. I feel like it would probably pull 100lbs out of the car also.
@@jayscott5510 Why not just fold the seat down? Or if you ditch the seat - marine grade plywood is also just fine.
@@ThrottleStopGarage When the seat is folded down it prevents my seat from moving far enough back. I like the idea of it being light. In our 77 argosy motorhome we replaced the standard plywood with coosa board. It is lighter and doesnt rot. I've been trying to talk my wife into letting me go composite with the cabinets as well but she isn't having it.
What's your BIG HURRY in your printed notes a blink of the eye and it's gone ?..😨
Sorry - just pause the video if your taking notes - all products are also listed in the description for your convenience.
@@ThrottleStopGarage pause button can be a interruption and my Verizon tablet doesn't have that feature sorry I'm old school guy . Fiberglass and carbon fiber work is a hands on learning process your technical and veary helpfull bag of Tricks but some of your work is going so fast and i miss the point at times fasinnating work always a new, challenge .👍🐤🐤🔔🔔.
“Kitty hair” is called mar glass
It's also called kitty hair. It depends on the brand. As long as you're using a long-strand fibreglass filler - it's the right stuff.
Chopped.
Indeed.
One he'll of a lot of work for gust so little weight gain it's not worth the time work or the money
My hood was damaged. I also fail to see your point. I'm not gaining weight, the car is getting lighter - up high where it matters and in the end, it's both my money and my time. Free to waste as I see fit! I have really enjoyed the challenge and the learning that has gone into this phase of the project.