Pro tip: Before working with fiberglass, rub baby powder all over your body. It mostly prevents the glass from getting into your pores, and makes the whole job about 99% less miserable.
Hello Sir. I know it's been 3yrs since these series, but how great these instructional videos truly are. I'm just now going to try doing a wide body and front and rear bumper mods on my Ford explorer. I've learned SO much from you. Thank you !!!
I think not applying a full wet coat of PVA is the key to avoiding runs. At the moment I'm using a water base PVA, thinned about 50/50, with a "Preval" aerosol sprayer. I do a couple light mist coats (dried via hot air gun), then a final heaver mist coat. The moisture from the heavier mist coat is absorbed by and spreads through the dried PVA, so after a few minutes the whole part looks like it had a full wet coat. (I'm a noob, but I've been making a lot of parts without any of them sticking...)
The coroplast is an interesting idea. For folks that are not familiar with it, Coroplast is a plastic replacement for corrugated cardboard. This is what the US Post Office uses in the place of cardboard boxes. In the old days Chavant clay was used as the flange making material. It is available on Amazon. I think I would probably use hard clay for the edges, but nothing softer than Medium. When it is warmed it will stick to the cleaned area. You would soften it and roll it like pie dough to about a 1/4 inch thick and stick it to the edge of the form. It can also be used as a dam to create an edge for an undercut area. It will then enable you to make a joining flange for the mold.
That's basically what I did as I continued to learn. The filleting wax worked great and my only comment on the coroplast was that I should have taken more time fitting it.
Another material you can use to attach wood to the mold or to add more bulk or thickness is polyester needle punched batting. This is one of the smooth materials that is used in quilts.
Great job making these!!!!!! I could not tell what you used to trim the glass off. The vibrator saws work great for that!! The vibrator blades wear quickly! A drimmel cutting blade can be used to cut mor teeth !
You have such a great, professional level delivery as you narrate. FYI for cars Its better to learn to work with aluminum when doing light weight one offs. All FRP one off construction is horribly toxic and dubious, (old cans of resin, gell coat, spent molds, trimmings etc). You say that you are "not cheap anymore" If that's the case I would at the least invest in a Festool electric sanding system w/ vacuum. Air tool sanding FRP is absurdly outdated, sends glass fibers everywhere. Your shop is never going to be the same.
Thanks - I would really like to try to make aluminum panels one day. As for the sanding...my garage was and will remain a dusty mess. I also have a Mirka DA with dust extraction. I just don't always think to use it.
The PVA can probably go on even thinner. We use it at work (Rexco Part-All) and apply it with a sponge brush. The thinner the better. It dries very fast when it's thin, and if you try to overcoat, it risks peeling up the previous coat. All you need is enough to keep the gelcoat from sticking. Also, if you ever have a spot where you can't wash it, a piece of duct tape will stick to it and peel it off.
@@ThrottleStopGarage We can't spray in our shop, so we use the foam brush, but the most important thing is not to get pools or runs, because thick spots skin over and never dry.
Hi Love your job, next time u make a glasfibre mold u can put a tire valve in the middle of the mold, then u are able to put some air presure betwen the layers when u wana loose it
After adding the fiberglass cloth you use a liquid that looks pale green. This is before you add the chopped fiberglass mat. When you add the chopped fiberglass mat, the polyester resin is brown and then dries to a green color. But what pale green liquid/resin did you use for the fiberglass cloth ? Thank you for your work and videos, they are very informative and fantastic !
Thanks - the resin in this mold was a simple polyester resin. The difference in colour was from the catalyst. I've got some MEKP that is red and changes colour as it exotherms.
@@ThrottleStopGarage indeed, do you have any tips for a project? I want to make a negative mold of the shell of my welding hood from fiberglass then use carbon fiber to make a copy.
@@pmm4177 I've got a few videos on making molds. Just take your time - blank off the spaces and give yourself a big flange to work with for bagging materials.
Hello! I was wondering if you'd be able to make an updated video on making a mold? I know through the video you said you've learned some stuff, so I'm wondering if you've gotten more tips n advice you didn't know or share in this vid?
Really cool as always ! One Question - how many layers of glass fabrics are necessary in order to make a part ? Is there any minimum requirement ? Also thank you so much to share your videos with us ! I think it would take really a lot of time !
Great question Yash. I typically use 4 to 5 layers of the chop strand mat that I can source locally (which is 6.5 oz/yard or 220 gsm in weight). The cloth I used was lighter. I mostly use cloth and vary the weights from surfacing veil to heavy weight as I build the mold. With cloth I get a stronger and lighter mold (at about twice the price for the fabric).
Nice video as always. Have you ever made a mold of a interior trim pieces? Specifically the backside of them? They have these little prongs that clips to the car and can't think of a way to make one.
I haven't done any interior parts. Maybe later when I'm building a dash etc. I've thought about just adding an area to glue a fastener to the backside.
Cool project! I hope to do some similar projects on my rolling iron. I'm a V60 driver from Ontario(I know Volvo lost its touch). Thanks for these videos! Is your accent from Cape Breton?
Thing 1, you don't do both wax and pva...you do either or, Thing 2....never use gp resin for a mold, use a filled resin, Thing 3, the bracing is a huge mistake, that will post cure and print through, Thing 4, extentions have no 90 deg flanges. This will produce only a few parts, ok for a quick, not proper for higher run....but it is a start to learn from.
It's just a generic white gel coat. I have switched to Composite Envisions Tooling Gel Coat with great results. I only add wax (airdry) when repairing areas.
Couple questions: i just noticed that peel ply has a gsm rating too do you have to add more resin for that? And what size tips are you using on your hvlp gun, mine only has 1.4
You mean the CSM - yes - everything has a specific volume of resin needed. CSM when hand laid is very resin rich. Watch my later video's for more methods.
@@ThrottleStopGarage i bought a 2 pack hvlp gun from home depot that came with a 1.4 tip and couldnt find anything bigger than a 3 locally so i bought a dump gun from uscomposites. I tried brushing it on but the parts im doing have lots of crevices and other small areas that i ended up putting too much gelcoat in i think but this is my first carbon project. Should of started with something simpler than a door card haha
bruh it was a freak accident I had a big ol shard of fiber glass stuck in my throat for 5 days then I had to go inside my throat and grab it out sounds about as savage as it is, I thought it was a piece of chicken for 4 days lol
بعد شـُـكر الله ' شــــــكــــــراً لك ؛ : Thank you وأصل شُغلك المـُمتآز Keeep UUUPPP . Keeep Goooing . ' أُكرّر شُكري لك . Same process we use it in aircraft industry Very Very Excellent steps in this process . Good steps 👍👍👍 مـُـهـندّس صيآنّة طــآئــرآت مدنـيــّـة . ومـُفتش مُرآقبّة الجودّة QC inspector ARAB Engineer and Sr. Lead QC Inspector FAA, IA Inspector NDT/NDI Level II Inspector Jeddah Dhahran Al-Hijaz .
Pro tip: Before working with fiberglass, rub baby powder all over your body. It mostly prevents the glass from getting into your pores, and makes the whole job about 99% less miserable.
Also get a good mask, I used just a dust mask once when sanding fiberglass of a hobie 16 when I was repairing it and I was miserable for weeks
Really?! I’m going to have to try that
Hello Sir. I know it's been 3yrs since these series, but how great these instructional videos truly are. I'm just now going to try doing a wide body and front and rear bumper mods on my Ford explorer.
I've learned SO much from you. Thank you !!!
Glad to help
Man you made that old paint shine like new !!! My God it looked great !
Thanks 👍
I found this highly educational. Thank you.
Excellent!
Very cool tip about putting the scale in a zip loc bag!
It saved that scale - still working and spotless.
You do things I never thought possible in a small one man garage. love the videos im learning a lot. Greetings from vancouver
Thanks Jake. My space is palacial compared to what some are working with!
@@ThrottleStopGarage Nice that you recognise that :)
These vids are making me want to change all my bodywork from steel to carbon fibre too!
Thanks...you're my kind of crazy.
Thank you for making these
Thanks for watching!
@@ThrottleStopGarage (
I think not applying a full wet coat of PVA is the key to avoiding runs. At the moment I'm using a water base PVA, thinned about 50/50, with a "Preval" aerosol sprayer. I do a couple light mist coats (dried via hot air gun), then a final heaver mist coat. The moisture from the heavier mist coat is absorbed by and spreads through the dried PVA, so after a few minutes the whole part looks like it had a full wet coat. (I'm a noob, but I've been making a lot of parts without any of them sticking...)
The coroplast is an interesting idea. For folks that are not familiar with it, Coroplast is a plastic replacement for corrugated cardboard. This is what the US Post Office uses in the place of cardboard boxes.
In the old days Chavant clay was used as the flange making material. It is available on Amazon. I think I would probably use hard clay for the edges, but nothing softer than Medium. When it is warmed it will stick to the cleaned area. You would soften it and roll it like pie dough to about a 1/4 inch thick and stick it to the edge of the form. It can also be used as a dam to create an edge for an undercut area. It will then enable you to make a joining flange for the mold.
That's basically what I did as I continued to learn. The filleting wax worked great and my only comment on the coroplast was that I should have taken more time fitting it.
Another material you can use to attach wood to the mold or to add more bulk or thickness is polyester needle punched batting. This is one of the smooth materials that is used in quilts.
Great tip.
I never cease to learn something 😊
Great job making these!!!!!!
I could not tell what you used to trim the glass off. The vibrator saws work great for that!!
The vibrator blades wear quickly!
A drimmel cutting blade can be used to cut mor teeth !
Thanks. I'm now using diamond blades to trim molds and parts.
Great video. I'm going to try to make some carbon fiber panels for a 70roadrunner.
Go for it!
@@ThrottleStopGarage I have to get mine a little slicker first😁
Nice work as always. Can’t wait to see the trunk and hood fitted with hardware.
I'm from Australia and love the knowledge! I just wanted to say I'm surprised to see the same weight scale I use for my epoxy down here 😅
The old scale is still working!
@@ThrottleStopGarage don't let the thinners kill the screen haha
Nice work...i send my love from Greece !!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!
Insanely helpful thanks
Glad it helped!
You have such a great, professional level delivery as you narrate. FYI for cars Its better to learn to work with aluminum when doing light weight one offs. All FRP one off construction is horribly toxic and dubious, (old cans of resin, gell coat, spent molds, trimmings etc). You say that you are "not cheap anymore" If that's the case I would at the least invest in a Festool electric sanding system w/ vacuum. Air tool sanding FRP is absurdly outdated, sends glass fibers everywhere. Your shop is never going to be the same.
Thanks - I would really like to try to make aluminum panels one day. As for the sanding...my garage was and will remain a dusty mess. I also have a Mirka DA with dust extraction. I just don't always think to use it.
The PVA can probably go on even thinner. We use it at work (Rexco Part-All) and apply it with a sponge brush. The thinner the better. It dries very fast when it's thin, and if you try to overcoat, it risks peeling up the previous coat. All you need is enough to keep the gelcoat from sticking.
Also, if you ever have a spot where you can't wash it, a piece of duct tape will stick to it and peel it off.
Good tips - I was going on the advice of my local fiberglass retailer...I've learned a lot about PVA application from viewers.
@@ThrottleStopGarage We can't spray in our shop, so we use the foam brush, but the most important thing is not to get pools or runs, because thick spots skin over and never dry.
This is awesome I can’t wait to do this for my car when I have some room to work😅
Have fun!
Hi
Love your job, next time u make a glasfibre mold u can put a tire valve in the middle of the mold, then u are able to put some air presure betwen the layers when u wana loose it
Good job
Thanks
After adding the fiberglass cloth you use a liquid that looks pale green. This is before you add the chopped fiberglass mat. When you add the chopped fiberglass mat, the polyester resin is brown and then dries to a green color. But what pale green liquid/resin did you use for the fiberglass cloth ? Thank you for your work and videos, they are very informative and fantastic !
Thanks - the resin in this mold was a simple polyester resin. The difference in colour was from the catalyst. I've got some MEKP that is red and changes colour as it exotherms.
Really liking your videos TSG! Cheers, Doug
Very nice job. Have me some good ideas
Awesome! Thank you!
normally one would take a sharp new blade utility knife to trim the flanges instead of any grinding at all.
Great info thank you sir!
Glad it was helpful!
@@ThrottleStopGarage indeed, do you have any tips for a project? I want to make a negative mold of the shell of my welding hood from fiberglass then use carbon fiber to make a copy.
@@pmm4177 I've got a few videos on making molds. Just take your time - blank off the spaces and give yourself a big flange to work with for bagging materials.
@@ThrottleStopGarage thank you, I've been watching your videos most of the day
Hello! I was wondering if you'd be able to make an updated video on making a mold? I know through the video you said you've learned some stuff, so I'm wondering if you've gotten more tips n advice you didn't know or share in this vid?
I have a video up on that already. Check it out at th-cam.com/video/5sAEA-PJndg/w-d-xo.html.
Amazing!! Thanks so much!!!
Glad it helped.
Really cool as always ! One Question - how many layers of glass fabrics are necessary in order to make a part ? Is there any minimum requirement ?
Also thank you so much to share your videos with us ! I think it would take really a lot of time !
Great question Yash. I typically use 4 to 5 layers of the chop strand mat that I can source locally (which is 6.5 oz/yard or 220 gsm in weight). The cloth I used was lighter. I mostly use cloth and vary the weights from surfacing veil to heavy weight as I build the mold. With cloth I get a stronger and lighter mold (at about twice the price for the fabric).
Throttle Stop Garage 😎thank you for the information !
Nice video as always. Have you ever made a mold of a interior trim pieces? Specifically the backside of them? They have these little prongs that clips to the car and can't think of a way to make one.
I haven't done any interior parts. Maybe later when I'm building a dash etc. I've thought about just adding an area to glue a fastener to the backside.
Cool project! I hope to do some similar projects on my rolling iron. I'm a V60 driver from Ontario(I know Volvo lost its touch). Thanks for these videos! Is your accent from Cape Breton?
Thanks - I'm originally from Manitoba. So eastern prairie is the dialect.
Devilbiss starting line guns are great guns yes good price but not much different then my 600 devillbiss gun
Do you think Plastic dip can also be used before gelcoat ? Nice video btw , very helpfull for me.
I've never tried it. A little wax and some PVA is fool-proof and very cheap. I've moved on to using a chemical release agent and it's fantastic.
Algo rhythm
Yup
Are you using waxed or unwaxed resin and gelcoat? Also, another great video, Thanks!
The gel coat is unwaxed as it's sealed in the mold - so the second phase of it's cure goes on without the need for wax.
Thing 1, you don't do both wax and pva...you do either or, Thing 2....never use gp resin for a mold, use a filled resin, Thing 3, the bracing is a huge mistake, that will post cure and print through, Thing 4, extentions have no 90 deg flanges. This will produce only a few parts, ok for a quick, not proper for higher run....but it is a start to learn from.
What gel coat are you using? Do you have the name of it? Some are with wax and some with out
It's just a generic white gel coat. I have switched to Composite Envisions Tooling Gel Coat with great results. I only add wax (airdry) when repairing areas.
I'm going to do this soon . How many gallons of Resin did this mold take ?
Around two.
Where did you find your fiberglass veil?
Composite Envisions in Wisconsin.
Why did you decide to use carbon fiber as opposed to regular fiberglass?
Stiffness and the challenge.
Couple questions: i just noticed that peel ply has a gsm rating too do you have to add more resin for that?
And what size tips are you using on your hvlp gun, mine only has 1.4
You mean the CSM - yes - everything has a specific volume of resin needed. CSM when hand laid is very resin rich. Watch my later video's for more methods.
Oh and you won't spray gel coat with a 1.4 mm fluid tip. I can only barely do it with a 2.4 mm. Use a brush.
@@ThrottleStopGarage i bought a 2 pack hvlp gun from home depot that came with a 1.4 tip and couldnt find anything bigger than a 3 locally so i bought a dump gun from uscomposites. I tried brushing it on but the parts im doing have lots of crevices and other small areas that i ended up putting too much gelcoat in i think but this is my first carbon project. Should of started with something simpler than a door card haha
New video, yaaaaay.
Well and older video with out annoying sound issues! It just took me a few months to tidy that up.
@@ThrottleStopGarage yeah I realized that we went a couple of steps back after a couple of minutes into the video :)
Is this mold Good for Autoclave about 375°F and 85psi ?
I didn't use a high temperature resin - so I don't think this would be a great idea.
bruh it was a freak accident I had a big ol shard of fiber glass stuck in my throat for 5 days then I had to go inside my throat and grab it out sounds about as savage as it is, I thought it was a piece of chicken for 4 days lol
That's scary.
Uhhh.... do you want to adopt me? I'll help you with projects... :)
بعد شـُـكر الله '
شــــــكــــــراً لك ؛
: Thank you
وأصل شُغلك المـُمتآز
Keeep UUUPPP .
Keeep Goooing .
' أُكرّر شُكري لك .
Same process we use it
in aircraft industry
Very Very
Excellent steps
in this process
. Good steps
👍👍👍
مـُـهـندّس صيآنّة
طــآئــرآت مدنـيــّـة .
ومـُفتش مُرآقبّة الجودّة
QC inspector
ARAB Engineer
and Sr. Lead
QC Inspector
FAA, IA
Inspector
NDT/NDI
Level II
Inspector
Jeddah
Dhahran
Al-Hijaz .