Big brake kits are the industry’s biggest hype. For most track day people, OEM brakes with upgraded track pads, Motul 600 fluids, SS brake lines and (this is key) proper ducting fitted the right way will suffice. OEM brakes are manufactured to stop the weight of the car at speeds the car can achieve. What OEM cannot do is multiple high speed braking or braking at speeds higher than the speed limiter. The above mods deal with the repeated braking at the track and the issue of extreme speeds is not an issue at the track where you can never hit your OEM top limiter. On the track you should also turn off all electronic aids and stability control as they use your brakes all the time increasing heat load. This is why Race Mode on cars cancels these aids. They were never meant for the track. Having said that, big brakes have their place with track cars that compete: every tenth counts in a race and a big brake kit will make you faster in the brake zone. But only pros can modulate these brakes to squeeze these tenths out the brakes. Novice drivers should save their money on proper driving schools
And for shorter stopping distance, bigger brakes make no difference on the street. The forces involved are between the road surface and tyres. A good set of performance tyres and upgraded suspension components will stop sooner. Bigger brakes are only better due to heat dissipation. Its schoolboy physics.
Torque is defined as the cross product vector, the distance from the pivot point, force applied, either acceleration or deceleration! The greater the force applied at the great distance the greater the force, Braking or acceleration. There for, the greater the braking force the more retarding. Easy to lock a tyre, takes a lot of force to keep a tyre at a point before locking, and there fore a lot of heat is produced
In my humble opinion there is no grooving or drilling on the brake discs for cooling reasons. It is to prevent the accumulation of gases produced at high temperatures from the brake pad binders between pads and rotors. However, this is not as much of a problem nowadays as it was in the past due to advances in brake pads. Drilled discs are a relic of the past, used because they look cool and even with drilling they are good enough.
Flipped a Peugeot 107 in black ice and hail trying to get to work experience with was on a very remote back road in England, now I’m getting a 14 reg Ibiza. I don’t want another failed gymnastics lesson and want to keep this car firmly on all four wheels, preferably on the road, especially as both cars I have had have been totalled (the first was weeks after I passed an I blame my inexperience). These facts have really knocked my confidence as a driver especially doing the test drive on an icy December morning I can’t help but notice how nervous I was. Due to the crash - I was lucky I wasn’t dead an only came out with very minor scratches from shattered glass I’ve decided to mod my car. Investing in it to look good gives all the more reason not to crash but I’m scared of wiping out yet again. I want the best tyres and the best brake system possible plus a better air filter for improved mpg. My question is this - I understand the necessity for better brakes on the track. But going maximum 60 mph/100kph on nation speed limit country lanes in an otherwise stock car… how much more easy is it to lock up and the arse end come out anyway? I admit I need to (want to really) calm down but the thought of bad weather just deleting my car makes me want it glued to the road like a tick to a dog. I would highly value any advice from anyone worth thier salt. Can’t afford to mess up again. Ta
Big brake kit saved my life. It is a necessity if one wants to stay alive. It improved stopping performance so much better than the stock factory ones. It is not just for track for faster lap time it improves life chance for regular road driving.
Completely disagree! A factory fitted, working and well maintained brake kit is perfectly sufficient for street (legal speeds) driving on street tyres. You will not get any braking performance benefit from a big brake kit on the street. Your factory brakes are strong enough to easily lock up your wheels. That's why when you stomp on the brakes on your street car, abs kicks in. Your tyres are always the limiting factor when it comes to stopping distance. That being said, a properly specified and installed big brake setup can improve brake feel dramatically, even for street driving. A poorly specced setup (very easy to do!) will be a downgrade to OEM. Big brake kits are beneficial for three reasons. 1. Heat capacity. For serious driving (track work etc), many factory brake setups will overheat and rapidly reduce braking performance. (For many, the initial issue is pad material and brake fluid). The larger calipers of a big brake kit and the larger diameter rotors help massively. 2. Brake feel. Factory setups often use a low amount (1-2 mostly) of larger pistons. They also use a cheap 2 piece bolted steel caliper design. The caliper can flex (like a g clamp) when brakes are applied. A 1 piece racing caliper will flex alot less, meaning a more direc, linear pedal feel. Racing calipers often having more pistons that are smaller. This allows for the pressure to be applied on the pads evenly. Too many pistons just adds cost/complexity with diminishing returns.
For those who don't know, the main reason for 2 piece rotor is heat expansion and so it doesn't warp or crack. It can expand away from the hat as the temps on track get much higher than street use.
Too many people are led to believe that bigger brakes = better performance. That is not necessarily true. Monoblock this and 6-piston that will mean nothing if your tyres, brake pads and brake fluid aren't suited to the task at hand. Go to any sanctioned circuit race meeting and you will not see anybody running cross-drilled rotors. It must be for a reason, and it's not because they don't want to keep their rotors cool!
If you are driving your car normally the stock brakes are more than enough but if you are on track you need to upgrade your brakes unless you want to get brake fade
Hey, I have a question, not much experience here about Brakes, but I have been in close situations where I need to Brakes really fast, most of the time in highway, so as myself I drive long distance in my car really often, just an example, I am planning a road trip to Washington Seattle, from Boston, I have an Accord 2.0, so in my case, that I drive a lot highway, how necessary or recommended would be to install those big kits? Also for style I thought about painting my calipers, but then I thought that I could just install those, but in real world situations, would they be really necessary for me, or just be a wasted of money?
@@yeffry if you want to brake faster probably just get better tires, with a daily driver where you aren’t pushing it and constantly slamming on the brakes as hard as you can getting bigger brakes are useless. They do look cool tho
I was doing 70 on the highway and my brakes gave out because my really old brake drums finally gave out. What happened was a spring in my brake drum broke and cut a brake line which caused me to have no brake fluid outside of my back right brake drum housing. Fun times.
Good video quality... but explanation deserves more detail. You only need a brake upgrade if you are constantly braking under a short period of time. Not for street use, but for a track/race use. Besides... the video dont talk about brake bias when upgrading the component, which can clearly change handling. Good stuff though.
Oh man... Nice summary video but some of the specific details on rotors are just plain incorrect. 1. The purpose of a floating 2 piece rotor is twofold. a. Save significant rotational unsprung weight by using an aluminium centre instead of heavy cast iron b. Rotors have to operate over a huge temp range. Different metals expand and contract at different rates. So you need to allow the centre to float compared to the disc otherwise it'd introduce bending forces to the disc section. 2. Slotted and drilled rotors are not there to increase ventilation. Well, not in the same way that rotor radial vents (vane or otherwise) ventilate. Slots and drilled rotors were more important in the past when brake pad designs meant that they'd release gas at the friction surface. The vents/slots allow for degassing to maintain contact between pad and rotor surfaces. Slots and drill holes reduce the overall surface available for braking on the rotor. It is a tradeoff. Modern F1 cars use plain faced rotors. Very fkn expensive carbon rotors.
Hi awesome video hoped you might help me. I'm about to upgrade my disks and breaks but the back on my car Stoke are solid but vented in the front. Can I purchase vented for the rear and take the solids off? Will there fit or do they need to be replaced with solid disks only? Thanks in advance? Any advice would be amazing
I am building a 3500lb car and the suspension shop installed big rotor Wilwood brakes (6 piston up front, 4 piston back). My question is will I need a power booster? I am not racing but do plan on driving at frequently at 150+mph. I have manual steering and was considering the ABS Inc electric brake booster. Maybe it is not going to be neccassary?
Hi guys! I am a novice in brakes, so I need advice. Im considering to buy a car not for circuits, just for the streets, cities and highways. Anyway my goal is to find some more effective brakes, which are better than stock. It can fit in 18" wheels and it can be something good in quality and it also can looks good. It should be mounted on toyota corolla 2023 gr version or higher version. Can you give me some options? Which brand and type would be perfect? Thank you!
@@vivid_racing thank you so much. I am from Slovakia and i already check this brand, but i still dont know, if there is some exact type of those brakes or not? .. it has some next name? Or just brembro? Because there are differences. And also question. How can i find out, if some brakes are good for my car?
Excellent content👍👍👍Subscribe Done👌 By the way I need your advice which brand or size that suits my car? ( SUV Mitsubishi ASX 2017) with 18 X 8 offset +45 Rims? Thanks
Thanks for watching! We'd love to help you out with that, send us an email at sales@vividracing.com and one of our experts can give some of the best options!
Big brake kits are the industry’s biggest hype. For most track day people, OEM brakes with upgraded track pads, Motul 600 fluids, SS brake lines and (this is key) proper ducting fitted the right way will suffice. OEM brakes are manufactured to stop the weight of the car at speeds the car can achieve. What OEM cannot do is multiple high speed braking or braking at speeds higher than the speed limiter. The above mods deal with the repeated braking at the track and the issue of extreme speeds is not an issue at the track where you can never hit your OEM top limiter. On the track you should also turn off all electronic aids and stability control as they use your brakes all the time increasing heat load. This is why Race Mode on cars cancels these aids. They were never meant for the track.
Having said that, big brakes have their place with track cars that compete: every tenth counts in a race and a big brake kit will make you faster in the brake zone. But only pros can modulate these brakes to squeeze these tenths out the brakes. Novice drivers should save their money on proper driving schools
Noted, thanks for watching!
And for shorter stopping distance, bigger brakes make no difference on the street. The forces involved are between the road surface and tyres. A good set of performance tyres and upgraded suspension components will stop sooner. Bigger brakes are only better due to heat dissipation.
Its schoolboy physics.
I cracked my rotors and had extreme brake fade before it cracked. It was a necessity for me and my C5. Best upgrade I have done!
Torque is defined as the cross product vector, the distance from the pivot point, force applied, either acceleration or deceleration! The greater the force applied at the great distance the greater the force, Braking or acceleration. There for, the greater the braking force the more retarding. Easy to lock a tyre, takes a lot of force to keep a tyre at a point before locking, and there fore a lot of heat is produced
@@lancefawcett1809yeah completely agreed suspension settings and wheel configuration should also be considered when it comes to braking performance.
I cracked my rotor and had extreme brake fade before it cracked. It was a necessity for me and my C5. Best upgrade I have done!
I had the same problem with my C5. Of course I was making 800hp and did ALOT of canyon carving.
My first performance upgrade will be the suspension, then I will do the brakes, then the exhaust and after that the airintake+tune.
Awesome! We'd love to help you out with that, shoot us an email at sales@vividracing.com!
@@vivid_racing I live in Europe though, I am guessing you are only positioned in the USA?
Always focus on the engine breathing 1st: CAI and exhaust. Depending on your HP I'd put breaking ahead of suspension.
In my humble opinion there is no grooving or drilling on the brake discs for cooling reasons. It is to prevent the accumulation of gases produced at high temperatures from the brake pad binders between pads and rotors. However, this is not as much of a problem nowadays as it was in the past due to advances in brake pads. Drilled discs are a relic of the past, used because they look cool and even with drilling they are good enough.
Flipped a Peugeot 107 in black ice and hail trying to get to work experience with was on a very remote back road in England, now I’m getting a 14 reg Ibiza. I don’t want another failed gymnastics lesson and want to keep this car firmly on all four wheels, preferably on the road, especially as both cars I have had have been totalled (the first was weeks after I passed an I blame my inexperience).
These facts have really knocked my confidence as a driver especially doing the test drive on an icy December morning I can’t help but notice how nervous I was.
Due to the crash - I was lucky I wasn’t dead an only came out with very minor scratches from shattered glass I’ve decided to mod my car. Investing in it to look good gives all the more reason not to crash but I’m scared of wiping out yet again. I want the best tyres and the best brake system possible plus a better air filter for improved mpg.
My question is this - I understand the necessity for better brakes on the track. But going maximum 60 mph/100kph on nation speed limit country lanes in an otherwise stock car… how much more easy is it to lock up and the arse end come out anyway?
I admit I need to (want to really) calm down but the thought of bad weather just deleting my car makes me want it glued to the road like a tick to a dog. I would highly value any advice from anyone worth thier salt. Can’t afford to mess up again. Ta
Amazing content. Deserve more views and subscribers! Greeting from Malaysia. 🇲🇾
Thanks for watching, we appreciate it!
Great overall presentation- thanks guys. I would buy from you.
Thank you! We appreciate the kind words!
Big brake kit saved my life. It is a necessity if one wants to stay alive. It improved stopping performance so much better than the stock factory ones. It is not just for track for faster lap time it improves life chance for regular road driving.
We completely agree with you!
Well said! Very underrated upgrade. 👍
Were you experiencing brake fade?
We talking about 4 or 6 piston? Because I have a 6 piston brembos but I want to go with a 4 for weigh reduction
Completely disagree!
A factory fitted, working and well maintained brake kit is perfectly sufficient for street (legal speeds) driving on street tyres.
You will not get any braking performance benefit from a big brake kit on the street.
Your factory brakes are strong enough to easily lock up your wheels. That's why when you stomp on the brakes on your street car, abs kicks in.
Your tyres are always the limiting factor when it comes to stopping distance.
That being said, a properly specified and installed big brake setup can improve brake feel dramatically, even for street driving. A poorly specced setup (very easy to do!) will be a downgrade to OEM.
Big brake kits are beneficial for three reasons.
1. Heat capacity. For serious driving (track work etc), many factory brake setups will overheat and rapidly reduce braking performance. (For many, the initial issue is pad material and brake fluid). The larger calipers of a big brake kit and the larger diameter rotors help massively.
2. Brake feel. Factory setups often use a low amount (1-2 mostly) of larger pistons. They also use a cheap 2 piece bolted steel caliper design.
The caliper can flex (like a g clamp) when brakes are applied.
A 1 piece racing caliper will flex alot less, meaning a more direc, linear pedal feel.
Racing calipers often having more pistons that are smaller. This allows for the pressure to be applied on the pads evenly. Too many pistons just adds cost/complexity with diminishing returns.
For those who don't know, the main reason for 2 piece rotor is heat expansion and so it doesn't warp or crack. It can expand away from the hat as the temps on track get much higher than street use.
Exactly right!
Need a video on master cylinder volume vs stock / BBK!
Definitely could be sweet, thanks for watching!
Agree. I'm doing a dsm ctsv swap and that would help a lot
Friend of Ryan S's. here! Just subscribed! Keep making great content!
Thank you! 🙌🏼🤘🏼 enjoy 😃
Too many people are led to believe that bigger brakes = better performance. That is not necessarily true. Monoblock this and 6-piston that will mean nothing if your tyres, brake pads and brake fluid aren't suited to the task at hand.
Go to any sanctioned circuit race meeting and you will not see anybody running cross-drilled rotors. It must be for a reason, and it's not because they don't want to keep their rotors cool!
Thanks for watching!
If you are driving your car normally the stock brakes are more than enough but if you are on track you need to upgrade your brakes unless you want to get brake fade
Hey, I have a question, not much experience here about Brakes, but I have been in close situations where I need to Brakes really fast, most of the time in highway, so as myself I drive long distance in my car really often, just an example, I am planning a road trip to Washington Seattle, from Boston, I have an Accord 2.0, so in my case, that I drive a lot highway, how necessary or recommended would be to install those big kits? Also for style I thought about painting my calipers, but then I thought that I could just install those, but in real world situations, would they be really necessary for me, or just be a wasted of money?
@@yeffry if you want to brake faster probably just get better tires, with a daily driver where you aren’t pushing it and constantly slamming on the brakes as hard as you can getting bigger brakes are useless. They do look cool tho
@@yeffry oh I looked online apparently the accord 2.0t brakes are ass so I would recommend getting better brakes plus they look cool
I was doing 70 on the highway and my brakes gave out because my really old brake drums finally gave out. What happened was a spring in my brake drum broke and cut a brake line which caused me to have no brake fluid outside of my back right brake drum housing. Fun times.
Uh oh! That's terrifying!
Your rear brake drum has springs in it? Why?
@@MRMAN-wb1tv yes alot of them have springs for auto adjustment
Good video quality... but explanation deserves more detail. You only need a brake upgrade if you are constantly braking under a short period of time. Not for street use, but for a track/race use. Besides... the video dont talk about brake bias when upgrading the component, which can clearly change handling. Good stuff though.
This video needs more Views O.O!
Sharing is caring 😁
Im using ap racing on my 1.5cc keicar perodua myvi😂
Good stuff!
Thanks for watching!
Oh man...
Nice summary video but some of the specific details on rotors are just plain incorrect.
1. The purpose of a floating 2 piece rotor is twofold. a. Save significant rotational unsprung weight by using an aluminium centre instead of heavy cast iron b. Rotors have to operate over a huge temp range. Different metals expand and contract at different rates. So you need to allow the centre to float compared to the disc otherwise it'd introduce bending forces to the disc section.
2. Slotted and drilled rotors are not there to increase ventilation. Well, not in the same way that rotor radial vents (vane or otherwise) ventilate.
Slots and drilled rotors were more important in the past when brake pad designs meant that they'd release gas at the friction surface. The vents/slots allow for degassing to maintain contact between pad and rotor surfaces.
Slots and drill holes reduce the overall surface available for braking on the rotor. It is a tradeoff.
Modern F1 cars use plain faced rotors. Very fkn expensive carbon rotors.
Thank you for this!
Is that a JVC RCM70 on your table?????
Amazing video!!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it 🙌🏼🤘🏼😄
Hi awesome video hoped you might help me.
I'm about to upgrade my disks and breaks but the back on my car Stoke are solid but vented in the front.
Can I purchase vented for the rear and take the solids off? Will there fit or do they need to be replaced with solid disks only?
Thanks in advance?
Any advice would be amazing
You can totally use vented in the rear if someone makes them!!
Cool!
WILWOODS!!!😎👊🏻
I am building a 3500lb car and the suspension shop installed big rotor Wilwood brakes (6 piston up front, 4 piston back). My question is will I need a power booster? I am not racing but do plan on driving at frequently at 150+mph. I have manual steering and was considering the ABS Inc electric brake booster. Maybe it is not going to be neccassary?
Lol@I'm not racing, BUT, I plan on doing 150mph consistently 😂😂😂
Can you just replace the fronts or is it recommended to do both front and back?
You can do just the fronts!
Rule of mechanics...EQUAL USE, EQUAL ABUSE, REPLACE IN 2'S
Hi guys! I am a novice in brakes, so I need advice.
Im considering to buy a car not for circuits, just for the streets, cities and highways. Anyway my goal is to find some more effective brakes, which are better than stock. It can fit in 18" wheels and it can be something good in quality and it also can looks good. It should be mounted on toyota corolla 2023 gr version or higher version.
Can you give me some options? Which brand and type would be perfect? Thank you!
Check out Brembo they make great kits!
@@vivid_racing thank you so much. I am from Slovakia and i already check this brand, but i still dont know, if there is some exact type of those brakes or not? .. it has some next name? Or just brembro? Because there are differences.
And also question. How can i find out, if some brakes are good for my car?
Get better tires. Bigger brakes do not equate to shorter stopping distance.
Srsly really good content,
We appreciate it, thanks for watching! 🙌
@@vivid_racing welcome!!
I want break system under 2000$ for track for my s3 2015 can you recommend me one?
lots of options here www.vividracing.com/index.php?keywords=Audi+S3+big+brake
Oops I thought you should pick the best one that looks good for IG #Wheelwednesday
Always
What about D2?
????
@@vivid_racing didn't mention it...
Excellent content👍👍👍Subscribe Done👌
By the way I need your advice which brand or size that suits my car?
( SUV Mitsubishi ASX 2017) with 18 X 8 offset +45 Rims?
Thanks
Thanks for watching! We'd love to help you out with that, send us an email at sales@vividracing.com and one of our experts can give some of the best options!
Yeah bro add unsprung mass cuz uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Big brake its are mostly for looks