Un lavoro eccezionale. Io non so quasi nulla di saldature, però ho visto tantissimi video nell'ultimo mese per cercare di imparare; e devo dire che queste saldature sono proprio belle!!! Io, armato di kit da saldatura da 20€ + fotocamera Macro del telefono mi sono buttato nell'installazione del chip... ho fatto un macello ma stranamente ha funzionato >_
@@mohandmohand2047Yes, every time you solder something near the cpu die (on the caps), you have to cut a bit of the metal shield to let the wires or the cable go out into the main chip. Otherwise you risk the metal shield cutting or damaging or shorting the flex cable/wires.
Hi! Did you isolate bottom of the modchip by kapton tape? I mean the main part with the chip seen at 11:38. I think they have metal cover under and I was wondering is the additional electrical insulation is needed. Did you glue the flex ribbon/modchip or it is holding purely by solder joints and screws? Congratulations of success, risky stuff imo :)
Hi! Thank you for your comment! No, I didn't insulate the part underneath the chip because this hwfly "clone" already had the underneath part protected in "plastic". Each chip variant is different, if you have a metal bottom, it should still be groung, with a multimeter measurement you can see if there is continuity between the GND point of the top chip and the part below. If you have continuity there is no need to isolate it because it rests on the ground. But you can do it for your peace of mind. No need to glue it down, only the 3 screws (game card slot, speaker, heat sink leg) are there to hold it very securely in place (You can consult the official hwfly lite manual by Team Xecuter searching on the web). It is in fact recommended to fix the chip with the 3 screws before doing the soldering and connecting the cables to avoid damage to the soldering. In reverse if you want to remove the chip, first disconnect the cables and desolder the 3.3V underneath and only at the end remove the 3 screws to free the chip. The new PicoFly variants (the only one currently in production) do not have the 3 screw fixings, so on those it is important to put a good double-sided tape under the chip to prevent it from moving. However, it is VERY important to cover the metal part above the chip with Kapton tape (console back cover/metal shield), as this could cause short circuits if it touches the top part of the chip.
Damn! I've watched quite a few videos on the soldering process. Those HAVE to be the most beautiful solder joints I have ever seen. Impressive skills. If you don't mind me asking, what is the solder iron temperature you recommend to get perfect solder points, like yours?
Thank you very much! This was the first switch lite chip installation so I went a little bit slow. The temperature I use for these jobs is between 315°C (for small spots) and 330°C (for large spots that dissipate heat quickly like ground shields). But in my opinion the soldering are also good at different temperatures if you use a good flux. If the flux is bad, the soldering are bad. I only use original NC-559-V2-TF AMTECH FLUX.
@@PrimoAngelowhich iron dobyou recommend and it looks really easy actually do you think someone you never micro solderd without a microskope can make it?
@@OG-ShortsYT I use a soldering station JC AIXUN T3B 96W T115/210. It seems very easy because everything is magnified 20-40 times. I strongly advise against trying if it is the first time with such small jobs and without the use of a microscope.
Mil agradecimentos! Eu uso a estação de solda Aixun T3B-210 e a temperatura é 315°C. A thousand thanks! I use Aixun T3B-210 soldering station and the temperature is 315°C.
is there a reason to use that much flux? Others that I watched only uses a drop for each solder. Im asking because I'm thinking of chipping my Lite as well.
It seems a lot but in reality it is very little, we are under the microscope, when you try to install yourself you will realize that a single drop seems like a lot but in reality it is not. However, it is always better to abound with flux to have shinier welds.
Hello There Friend. Can you tell me what Microscope/Camera/lens/lights are you using ? The image looks so clear. I am browsing to see which one to buy. Thanks
Lamento mas o vendedor onde comprei estes kits no Aliexpress já não existe, em teoria são todos iguais. I'm sorry but the seller where I purchased these kits no longer exists, in theory they are all the same.
Ciao, grazie per il commento! Il flussante è l'originale Amtech NC-559-V2-TF, attenzione però ai falsi, il 99% in rete sono fake. Stazione Aixun T3B e temperatura 315°C.
Gracias, pero la pregunta es: ¿es necesario conectar los contactos con soldadura, por ejemplo, A a A, B a B, etc., o basta con soldar todo correctamente?
@@SchiZoFriends Hola, los puntos de soldadura del video son los únicos que hay que hacer, todos los demás se conectan con acoples rápidos en el chip. Hello, the soldering points in the video are the only ones to do, all the rest connect with quick couplings in the chip
As 3 medições que fiz às 8:00 e a medição que fiz às 9:00 devem dar (no modo diodo) valores entre 0,4 e 0,9. Se você inverter as pontas de prova no ponto de 9 minutos, deverá ler cerca de 1,5 Enquanto para SP1 e SP2, um lado deve ser 0 (terra) e o outro uma resistência de cerca de 10-40 ohms. The 3 measurements I made at 8:00 and the measurement I made at 9:00 must give (in diode mode) values between 0.4 and 0.9. If you reverse the test leads (at the 9 minute point) you should read about 1.5 While for SP1 and SP2, one side must be 0 (ground) and the other a resistance of about 10-40 ohms.
Hi, hwfly (original and clones) are no longer in production. Now you can find RP2040 version on aliexpress (lite/core/oled version). Installation is similar, only 3,3v soldering point is now on top under game card reader.
can u tell me what that cap or fuse goes right above that micro SD? Got everything down and tested but somehow I lost that cap and I currently get no lights on my modchip. The console powers up no issues but the modchip doesn't, Suspect that is the issue as maybe that's the 3.3V? not a lot of specific info on this
I think it's a 4.7uF 10v Capacitor, 0402 size. Yes, if you do not provide 3,3v to the chip, it will not work. You have to buy it or take from a donor console and resolder the component back in place and after resolder the flex cable on top of it.
@@PrimoAngelo thank you so much! I ordered it and hoping I can install it ok. Ordered several just in case. Do you know if it's best to use a solder iron or hot air station to install this?
@@magnificenttaco4234 With a soldering iron the board will have less thermal stress, i prefer this way. With hot air you should cover the components around with kapton or aluminum tape or silicone pads to avoid melting or damaging connectors or plastic parts.
Bonjour, la pâte thermique doit être remise dans les 3 zones où vous la trouvez lorsque vous démontez la console. En démontant la console, il faut tout nettoyer en retirant l'ancienne pâte. Ensuite, il doit être placé directement sur le CPU, au-dessus du capot métallique du CPU et au-dessus du tuyau en cuivre qui transporte la chaleur vers le ventilateur. Hello, the thermal paste must be put back in the 3 areas where you find it when you disassemble the console. When disassemble the console, everything must be cleaned by removing the old paste. Then it should be placed directly on the CPU, above the metal CPU cover and above the copper pipe that carries the heat to the fan.
Hi i bought cheap one from aliexpress looks like pico but it only says rp2040 should i update my console past 17.0.0 on ofm before soldering or it doesnt matter? im on 16.0.1
It doesn't matter, but starting with the latest firmware is recommended that way the game card reader is also updated and you have fewer problems on emunand when playing cartridge games.
Great soldering job! What chip did you use exactly? I am looking for it on Aliexpress and found a hundreds of them. Not aure which one to pick. Any suggestion?
HWFly are not in production, if you find them they are remaining stocks. Now the only one in production is RP2040 (CORE, LITE and OLED). I bought this and the installation is very similar to the one in the video except for the 3.3v point which is under the cartridge slot cable. it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005780714704.html
Excelente trabalho amigo, parabéns. Estou com uma certa dificuldade em encontrar os chips para comprar poderia me passar um link onde consigo encontrar? agradeço
Mil agradecimentos! Infelizmente os chips hwfly foram descontinuados, agora só existem os novos chips hwfly RP2040 no mercado, a instalação é bem parecida. Basta pesquisar no aliexpress pelo texto: "hwfly rp2040" e você deve encontrá-los. A thousand thanks! Unfortunately the hwfly chips are discontinued, now there are only the new hwfly RP2040 chips on the market, the installation is very similar. Just search on aliexpress for the text: "hwfly rp2040" and you should find them.
Ciao! Complimenti davvero per il tuo lavoro. Vorrei farlo anche io (ho appena acquistato un chip hwfly su aliexpress, andrà bene? ) ma ho tanta paura di combinare un casino!
Ciao, se hai esperienza pregressa con microsaldature al microscopio potresti provare, se non hai mai saldato nulla e/o non hai il microscopio/saldatore per componenti microscopici lascerei perdere sinceramente e lo farei fare a qualcuno con già esperienza, il rischio di rovinarla altrimenti è molto alto. E poi il prezzo per fare sistemare un eventuale casino e moddarla sarebbe poi molto più elevato rispetto a farla chippare direttamente, sempre che poi si possa riparare! Il video è fatto al microscopio e lo zoom spinto potrebbe far sembrare facile a prima vista il lavoro, ma serve mano ferma ed almeno un po' di esperienza oltre che le attrezzature adatte.
Você compra pré-flash. Mas você pode atualizá-lo com o firmware mais recente: github.com/hwfly-nx/firmware You buy it pre-flashed. But you can update it with latest firmware: github.com/hwfly-nx/firmware
Flussante originale Amtech NC-559-v2-tf comprato direttamente dall'America. Attenzione ai fake su ebay/amazon e AliExpress che non sono nemmeno paragonabili e tutti lo imitano o falsificano. Costa molto ma è tra i migliori esistenti.
This chip is a HWFLY version installation, no longer in production. Today you can buy RP2040 version, almost same installation, the only difference is the 3,3v soldering point moved near the card game connector, on the top right.
The chip seller should provide the firmware pre-installed inside the device and you should not update if you do not have problems. But based on the chip type there is picofly or hwfly firmware, for example: github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly github.com/hwfly-nx/firmware
¡Hola! ¡Gracias por tu comentario! Puedes encontrarlos en aliexpress: condensador cerámico 1uF 20% 6.3V 0201 (también la versión de 10V o de mayor voltaje está bien si 6,3V no está disponible) Hi! Thank you for your comment! 1uF 20% 6.3V 0201 ceramic capacitor (also 10V version or higher voltage version is ok if 6,3V is not available)
Original Amtech NC-559-v2-tf flux bought directly from America. Beware of fakes on ebay/amazon and AliExpress which are not even comparable and everyone imitates or falsifies it. It costs a lot but is among the best in existence.
No, you need the lite version with the proper flat cable to solder. Usually core version has only the cable for cpu and the slot for emmc. Core version is only for original model (no oled no lite)
Hi! The readings vary according to the temperature and the revision of the switch board, it would be useless to have the exact numbers, in diode mode you must have values between 0.4 and 0.8 with a tester lead to ground. If you have 0 or 1 on the multimeter (Continuity or open line) there is a problem. If you have any other value, the installation is correct.
Flux should not be used for this work 🤣 that is why the points do not join, the flux has the property of separating and not allowing them to join, you should have used the famous paste to solder the typical yellow one and you will see how it allows the union between spaces, since the flex pin is damaged by applying heat with the tip of the soldering iron many times
Eu só uso o original NC-559-V2-TF AMTECH FLUX que é o melhor fluxo do planeta e não é limpo, ou seja, também pode ser deixado na placa e ao invés de oxidar protege os contatos da oxidação. Mas é um produto que custa muito. I only use original NC-559-V2-TF AMTECH FLUX which is the best flux on the planet and is no clean, meaning it can also be left on the board and instead of oxidizing it protects the contacts from oxidation. But it is a product that costs a lot.
nunca vi um cara pra soldar tão ruim, coloca solda neste ferro e não fica só tirando e colocado o ferro esse é seu problema, fiquem com agonia de ver seu video, tu e muito cafusu
Obrigado pelo comentário, esta foi a minha primeira instalação de chip no switch. É esse flat cable que dificulta um pouco a instalação, um fio para cada ponto teria sido mais fácil. Também prefiro pegar leve na quantidade de lata e demorar 1 minuto a mais, não tenha pressa. Se você tiver algum vídeo onde mostre seu trabalho, eu estaria interessado em vê-los para aprender. Obrigado Thanks for the comment, this was my first chip install on switch. This flat cable makes the installation a little more difficult, one wire for each point would have been easier. I also prefer to go easy on the amount of solder and take 1 minute longer, don't be in a hurry. If you have any videos where you show your work I would be interested in seeing them to learn. Thank you
O cara trabalhou bem realmente ficou muito bom
Muito obrigado pelo comentário!
Perfect soldaro 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank you very much!
Un lavoro eccezionale. Io non so quasi nulla di saldature, però ho visto tantissimi video nell'ultimo mese per cercare di imparare; e devo dire che queste saldature sono proprio belle!!!
Io, armato di kit da saldatura da 20€ + fotocamera Macro del telefono mi sono buttato nell'installazione del chip... ho fatto un macello ma stranamente ha funzionato >_
Grazie mille per il commento, veramente onorato!
@@PrimoAngelo you cut cpu cover for Flex Cable v2 or no???
@@mohandmohand2047Yes, every time you solder something near the cpu die (on the caps), you have to cut a bit of the metal shield to let the wires or the cable go out into the main chip. Otherwise you risk the metal shield cutting or damaging or shorting the flex cable/wires.
Ciao, costo?
Mi spiace ma non offro questo servizio
Would kindly tell me What type size of soldier tip you are using ?
Hi!
Did you isolate bottom of the modchip by kapton tape? I mean the main part with the chip seen at 11:38. I think they have metal cover under and I was wondering is the additional electrical insulation is needed. Did you glue the flex ribbon/modchip or it is holding purely by solder joints and screws?
Congratulations of success, risky stuff imo :)
Hi! Thank you for your comment!
No, I didn't insulate the part underneath the chip because this hwfly "clone" already had the underneath part protected in "plastic".
Each chip variant is different, if you have a metal bottom, it should still be groung, with a multimeter measurement you can see if there is continuity between the GND point of the top chip and the part below. If you have continuity there is no need to isolate it because it rests on the ground. But you can do it for your peace of mind.
No need to glue it down, only the 3 screws (game card slot, speaker, heat sink leg) are there to hold it very securely in place (You can consult the official hwfly lite manual by Team Xecuter searching on the web).
It is in fact recommended to fix the chip with the 3 screws before doing the soldering and connecting the cables to avoid damage to the soldering. In reverse if you want to remove the chip, first disconnect the cables and desolder the 3.3V underneath and only at the end remove the 3 screws to free the chip.
The new PicoFly variants (the only one currently in production) do not have the 3 screw fixings, so on those it is important to put a good double-sided tape under the chip to prevent it from moving.
However, it is VERY important to cover the metal part above the chip with Kapton tape (console back cover/metal shield), as this could cause short circuits if it touches the top part of the chip.
Damn! I've watched quite a few videos on the soldering process. Those HAVE to be the most beautiful solder joints I have ever seen. Impressive skills.
If you don't mind me asking, what is the solder iron temperature you recommend to get perfect solder points, like yours?
Thank you very much! This was the first switch lite chip installation so I went a little bit slow. The temperature I use for these jobs is between 315°C (for small spots) and 330°C (for large spots that dissipate heat quickly like ground shields). But in my opinion the soldering are also good at different temperatures if you use a good flux. If the flux is bad, the soldering are bad. I only use original NC-559-V2-TF AMTECH FLUX.
@@PrimoAngelowhich iron dobyou recommend and it looks really easy actually do you think someone you never micro solderd without a microskope can make it?
@@OG-ShortsYT I use a soldering station JC AIXUN T3B 96W T115/210. It seems very easy because everything is magnified 20-40 times. I strongly advise against trying if it is the first time with such small jobs and without the use of a microscope.
@@PrimoAngelo thanks for your reply today i will open my switch and look at the soldering points.
Parabens, muito bom o video. Qual temperatura do ferro de solda voce usa, e qual a ponteira, vi que agarra bem facil a solda nela?
Mil agradecimentos! Eu uso a estação de solda Aixun T3B-210 e a temperatura é 315°C.
A thousand thanks! I use Aixun T3B-210 soldering station and the temperature is 315°C.
is there a reason to use that much flux? Others that I watched only uses a drop for each solder. Im asking because I'm thinking of chipping my Lite as well.
It seems a lot but in reality it is very little, we are under the microscope, when you try to install yourself you will realize that a single drop seems like a lot but in reality it is not. However, it is always better to abound with flux to have shinier welds.
Boa tarde amigo, parabéns. Vc tem o esquemático dos pontos de solda por baixo da placa? O pad do meu clk soltou.
Saudações! Sinto muito, mas não conheço pontos alternativos... =(
Greetings! I'm sorry but I don't know of alternative soldering points... =(
Hello There Friend.
Can you tell me what Microscope/Camera/lens/lights are you using ? The image looks so clear. I am browsing to see which one to buy.
Thanks
Thank you very much for the comment! The microscope is Andonstar AD407.
@@PrimoAngelo Thank you
Do you know the value of the capacitor, where you solder the 3,3V for the chip? Mine is lost after I tried to install everything
That sucks
I think it's a 4.7uF 10v Capacitor, 0402 size.
Ótimo vídeo! Você tem algum vendedor recomendado no ali para compra do kit?
Lamento mas o vendedor onde comprei estes kits no Aliexpress já não existe, em teoria são todos iguais.
I'm sorry but the seller where I purchased these kits no longer exists, in theory they are all the same.
Parabéns pelo video excelente tutorial , qual a ponta de ferro você usou quero comprar uma igual ?
Pacote de estação de solda AIXUN T3B com alças T115 T210 e 6 pontas
AIXUN T3B Soldering Station Bundle with T115 T210 Handles and 6 Tips
@@PrimoAngelo muito obrigado por responder
alcune domande, che flussante hai utilizzato? che tipo di saldatore utilizzi e che temperatura? Hai fatto un bel lavoro!
Ciao, grazie per il commento! Il flussante è l'originale Amtech NC-559-V2-TF, attenzione però ai falsi, il 99% in rete sono fake. Stazione Aixun T3B e temperatura 315°C.
Gracias, pero la pregunta es: ¿es necesario conectar los contactos con soldadura, por ejemplo, A a A, B a B, etc., o basta con soldar todo correctamente?
@@SchiZoFriends Hola, los puntos de soldadura del video son los únicos que hay que hacer, todos los demás se conectan con acoples rápidos en el chip.
Hello, the soldering points in the video are the only ones to do, all the rest connect with quick couplings in the chip
@@PrimoAngelo спасибо
Oi tudo bom?, Poderia me falar as tensões dos pontos de solda?, vou fazer no meu e gostaria dessas informações
As 3 medições que fiz às 8:00 e a medição que fiz às 9:00 devem dar (no modo diodo) valores entre 0,4 e 0,9. Se você inverter as pontas de prova no ponto de 9 minutos, deverá ler cerca de 1,5
Enquanto para SP1 e SP2, um lado deve ser 0 (terra) e o outro uma resistência de cerca de 10-40 ohms.
The 3 measurements I made at 8:00 and the measurement I made at 9:00 must give (in diode mode) values between 0.4 and 0.9. If you reverse the test leads (at the 9 minute point) you should read about 1.5
While for SP1 and SP2, one side must be 0 (ground) and the other a resistance of about 10-40 ohms.
Wow great job man! Could you suggest where find the hwfly/clone? Thanks!
Hi, hwfly (original and clones) are no longer in production. Now you can find RP2040 version on aliexpress (lite/core/oled version). Installation is similar, only 3,3v soldering point is now on top under game card reader.
@@PrimoAngelo Thanks! I Will try to install one in my switch lite!
can u tell me what that cap or fuse goes right above that micro SD? Got everything down and tested but somehow I lost that cap and I currently get no lights on my modchip. The console powers up no issues but the modchip doesn't, Suspect that is the issue as maybe that's the 3.3V? not a lot of specific info on this
also if that's the case can u possibly tell me where to get one? Should just be a part I could order I assume, thank you in advance
I think it's a 4.7uF 10v Capacitor, 0402 size. Yes, if you do not provide 3,3v to the chip, it will not work. You have to buy it or take from a donor console and resolder the component back in place and after resolder the flex cable on top of it.
@@PrimoAngelo thank you so much! I ordered it and hoping I can install it ok. Ordered several just in case. Do you know if it's best to use a solder iron or hot air station to install this?
@@magnificenttaco4234 With a soldering iron the board will have less thermal stress, i prefer this way. With hot air you should cover the components around with kapton or aluminum tape or silicone pads to avoid melting or damaging connectors or plastic parts.
Bonjour et merci. Doit-on remettre de la pâte thermique a la fin ? Une fois la précédente retiré ?
Bonjour, la pâte thermique doit être remise dans les 3 zones où vous la trouvez lorsque vous démontez la console. En démontant la console, il faut tout nettoyer en retirant l'ancienne pâte. Ensuite, il doit être placé directement sur le CPU, au-dessus du capot métallique du CPU et au-dessus du tuyau en cuivre qui transporte la chaleur vers le ventilateur.
Hello, the thermal paste must be put back in the 3 areas where you find it when you disassemble the console. When disassemble the console, everything must be cleaned by removing the old paste. Then it should be placed directly on the CPU, above the metal CPU cover and above the copper pipe that carries the heat to the fan.
@@PrimoAngelo merci à vous je m'en suis bien sorti finalement
How about temp in soldering iron, please? 🙏
For small component I use 315°C, for ground anchor point about 340°C.
Hi i bought cheap one from aliexpress looks like pico but it only says rp2040 should i update my console past 17.0.0 on ofm before soldering or it doesnt matter? im on 16.0.1
It doesn't matter, but starting with the latest firmware is recommended that way the game card reader is also updated and you have fewer problems on emunand when playing cartridge games.
for anyone intrested first update ofm to 17.0.1 then solder chip in my case picofly then hats pack and ure done works for me@@PrimoAngelo
Good job! I gave up on the Lite as i burned out both C points. My Lite doesn't come on anymore. They say it cannot be fixed.
Hi! Thank you for the comment! Oh no, I am sorry for your console. On the bright side, it can be used to gain experience with soldering!
Great soldering job! What chip did you use exactly? I am looking for it on Aliexpress and found a hundreds of them. Not aure which one to pick. Any suggestion?
HWFly are not in production, if you find them they are remaining stocks. Now the only one in production is RP2040 (CORE, LITE and OLED). I bought this and the installation is very similar to the one in the video except for the 3.3v point which is under the cartridge slot cable. it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005780714704.html
what microscope are you using?
Thank you very much for the comment! The microscope is Andonstar AD407.
What are values of those capacitors on APU?
Hi, ceramic capacitor 1uf 20% 10V (also 6,3V is fine).
Excelente trabalho amigo, parabéns. Estou com uma certa dificuldade em encontrar os chips para comprar poderia me passar um link onde consigo encontrar? agradeço
Mil agradecimentos! Infelizmente os chips hwfly foram descontinuados, agora só existem os novos chips hwfly RP2040 no mercado, a instalação é bem parecida. Basta pesquisar no aliexpress pelo texto: "hwfly rp2040" e você deve encontrá-los.
A thousand thanks! Unfortunately the hwfly chips are discontinued, now there are only the new hwfly RP2040 chips on the market, the installation is very similar. Just search on aliexpress for the text: "hwfly rp2040" and you should find them.
Bom dia amigo, qual estanho você usou?
A lata que usei é uma lata normal SN/PB 60/40
Hi, what type of tip is used?
Hi, my soldering station is AIXUN T3B with standard T210 tip.
@@PrimoAngelo
What kind of solder?
Ciao! Complimenti davvero per il tuo lavoro. Vorrei farlo anche io (ho appena acquistato un chip hwfly su aliexpress, andrà bene? ) ma ho tanta paura di combinare un casino!
Ciao, se hai esperienza pregressa con microsaldature al microscopio potresti provare, se non hai mai saldato nulla e/o non hai il microscopio/saldatore per componenti microscopici lascerei perdere sinceramente e lo farei fare a qualcuno con già esperienza, il rischio di rovinarla altrimenti è molto alto.
E poi il prezzo per fare sistemare un eventuale casino e moddarla sarebbe poi molto più elevato rispetto a farla chippare direttamente, sempre che poi si possa riparare!
Il video è fatto al microscopio e lo zoom spinto potrebbe far sembrare facile a prima vista il lavoro, ma serve mano ferma ed almeno un po' di esperienza oltre che le attrezzature adatte.
bro went for the S rank on soldering
Hi! Thank you for the comment!
thanks for the video... do you know the values of SP1 capacitor i need to find one to replace mine cuz i desoldered and can't find it.
Hi! Thank you for your comment! 1uF 20% 6.3V 0201 ceramic capacitor (also 10V version or higher voltage version is ok if 6,3V is not available)
thank you mate@@PrimoAngelo
is SP2 Same value?@@PrimoAngelo
Yes, same value.
thank you so much and for those wondering where to find it. in the iphone 7 board there are a few in the charging sysytem.@@PrimoAngelo
Preciso colocar o hwfly no computador e colocar algum arquivo dentro dele?
Você compra pré-flash. Mas você pode atualizá-lo com o firmware mais recente: github.com/hwfly-nx/firmware
You buy it pre-flashed. But you can update it with latest firmware: github.com/hwfly-nx/firmware
Ciao, veramente un bel lavoro. Mi puoi consigliare che stagno hai usato per le saldature?
Ciao, è una classica lega stagno/piombo 60/40 di una qualsiasi marca. È il flussante che fa la differenza maggiore.
@@PrimoAngelo che flussante hai usato invece?
Flussante originale Amtech NC-559-v2-tf comprato direttamente dall'America. Attenzione ai fake su ebay/amazon e AliExpress che non sono nemmeno paragonabili e tutti lo imitano o falsificano. Costa molto ma è tra i migliori esistenti.
半田付けオリンピックで金メダル取れるレベル😮
コメントありがとうございます！
Thanks so much for the comment!
Hi. Its for V6 chip ? Rp2040 ?
This chip is a HWFLY version installation, no longer in production. Today you can buy RP2040 version, almost same installation, the only difference is the 3,3v soldering point moved near the card game connector, on the top right.
Can you tell me where did you get the firmware?
The chip seller should provide the firmware pre-installed inside the device and you should not update if you do not have problems. But based on the chip type there is picofly or hwfly firmware, for example:
github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly
github.com/hwfly-nx/firmware
Alguien sabe en donde se consiguen los condensadores sp1 y sp2 para Switch V2?? 😅👍🏻
¡Hola! ¡Gracias por tu comentario! Puedes encontrarlos en aliexpress: condensador cerámico 1uF 20% 6.3V 0201 (también la versión de 10V o de mayor voltaje está bien si 6,3V no está disponible)
Hi! Thank you for your comment! 1uF 20% 6.3V 0201 ceramic capacitor (also 10V version or higher voltage version is ok if 6,3V is not available)
What Flux u use?
Original Amtech NC-559-v2-tf flux bought directly from America. Beware of fakes on ebay/amazon and AliExpress which are not even comparable and everyone imitates or falsifies it. It costs a lot but is among the best in existence.
Can hwfly core Work? On nintendo switch lite
No, you need the lite version with the proper flat cable to solder. Usually core version has only the cable for cpu and the slot for emmc. Core version is only for original model (no oled no lite)
Please show your multimeter reading
Hi! The readings vary according to the temperature and the revision of the switch board, it would be useless to have the exact numbers, in diode mode you must have values between 0.4 and 0.8 with a tester lead to ground. If you have 0 or 1 on the multimeter (Continuity or open line) there is a problem. If you have any other value, the installation is correct.
@@PrimoAngelo thanks for the fast reply. Nice soldering skills
Thank to you for the comment! I'm still learning and every day is an opportunity to learn new things.
ASMR
Hi! Thank you for the comment!
Ciao, saresti disponibile a ripetere questa operazione su commissione ? Sarei interessato ad installare anch'io HWFly sulla mia switch lite :))
Ciao, mi spiace ma non faccio lavori su commissione, condivido solo alcuni video di lavori fatti nel poco tempo libero che ho.
OLED need please
Sorry but I do not have an OLED Switch Console and a chip for oled version...
Flux should not be used for this work 🤣 that is why the points do not join, the flux has the property of separating and not allowing them to join, you should have used the famous paste to solder the typical yellow one and you will see how it allows the union between spaces, since the flex pin is damaged by applying heat with the tip of the soldering iron many times
I also realized that, although it depends on the quality of the tin, some do not need very high temperatures.
Não se deve usar está pasta de solda amarela próximo a componentes tão críticos pois ela tem uma pequena taxa de corrosão e condutividade.
Eu só uso o original NC-559-V2-TF AMTECH FLUX que é o melhor fluxo do planeta e não é limpo, ou seja, também pode ser deixado na placa e ao invés de oxidar protege os contatos da oxidação. Mas é um produto que custa muito.
I only use original NC-559-V2-TF AMTECH FLUX which is the best flux on the planet and is no clean, meaning it can also be left on the board and instead of oxidizing it protects the contacts from oxidation. But it is a product that costs a lot.
Correct, If the temp is not too high and the contact time of the soldering iron tip is correct, nothing burns.
Hi, thank you for your comment. If the temp is not too high and the contact time of the soldering iron tip is correct, nothing burns.
nunca vi um cara pra soldar tão ruim, coloca solda neste ferro e não fica só tirando e colocado o ferro esse é seu problema, fiquem com agonia de ver seu video, tu e muito cafusu
Obrigado pelo comentário, esta foi a minha primeira instalação de chip no switch. É esse flat cable que dificulta um pouco a instalação, um fio para cada ponto teria sido mais fácil. Também prefiro pegar leve na quantidade de lata e demorar 1 minuto a mais, não tenha pressa. Se você tiver algum vídeo onde mostre seu trabalho, eu estaria interessado em vê-los para aprender. Obrigado
Thanks for the comment, this was my first chip install on switch. This flat cable makes the installation a little more difficult, one wire for each point would have been easier. I also prefer to go easy on the amount of solder and take 1 minute longer, don't be in a hurry. If you have any videos where you show your work I would be interested in seeing them to learn. Thank you