วีดีโอ

コメントありがとうございます！ Thanks so much for the comment!

Ciao, se hai esperienza pregressa con microsaldature al microscopio potresti provare, se non hai mai saldato nulla e/o non hai il microscopio/saldatore per componenti microscopici lascerei perdere sinceramente e lo farei fare a qualcuno con già esperienza, il rischio di rovinarla altrimenti è molto alto. E poi il prezzo per fare sistemare un eventuale casino e moddarla sarebbe poi molto più elevato rispetto a farla chippare direttamente, sempre che poi si possa riparare! Il video è fatto al microscopio e lo zoom spinto potrebbe far sembrare facile a prima vista il lavoro, ma serve mano ferma ed almeno un po' di esperienza oltre che le attrezzature adatte.

Hi, I put flux to remove solder residue that was on it, placed by the previous owner but I don't know why he did it. I prefer to start clean.

@@PrimoAngelo Thank you lots for the aclaration <3

The chip seller should provide the firmware pre-installed inside the device and you should not update if you do not have problems. But based on the chip type there is picofly or hwfly firmware, for example: github.com/Ansem-SoD/Picofly github.com/hwfly-nx/firmware

¡Hola! ¡Gracias por tu comentario! Puedes encontrarlos en aliexpress: condensador cerámico 1uF 20% 6.3V 0201 (también la versión de 10V o de mayor voltaje está bien si 6,3V no está disponible) Hi! Thank you for your comment! 1uF 20% 6.3V 0201 ceramic capacitor (also 10V version or higher voltage version is ok if 6,3V is not available)

A lata que usei é uma lata normal SN/PB 60/40

Pacote de estação de solda AIXUN T3B com alças T115 T210 e 6 pontas AIXUN T3B Soldering Station Bundle with T115 T210 Handles and 6 Tips

@@PrimoAngelo muito obrigado por responder

For small component I use 315°C, for ground anchor point about 340°C.

Original Amtech NC-559-v2-tf flux bought directly from America. Beware of fakes on ebay/amazon and AliExpress which are not even comparable and everyone imitates or falsifies it. It costs a lot but is among the best in existence.

Thank you for your comment!

Thank you for your comment!

Muito obrigado pelo comentário!

No, you need the lite version with the proper flat cable to solder. Usually core version has only the cable for cpu and the slot for emmc. Core version is only for original model (no oled no lite)

Hi, the adapter cable is custom and handmade from a female 2,54mm pin header (stlink side) with cable, soldered to a female 1,27mm pin header (G&W side). 4 wires total. I do not know if there are available in the market products that you can buy...

@@PrimoAngelo Forgive, I don't explain myself well. I mean the connector that welds the GNW. The connector that has 4 EB pins of L. I would like to know the name of that connector to look for it and if you know about a link where I can buy it. Thank you very much for your help.

I bought this: it.aliexpress.com/item/1005001412414804.html 1.27mm pitch right-angled pin header

@@PrimoAngelo ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H6be57f1ae9974c508865353cb245c9feM.jpg I guess this one is worth it

Hi, ceramic capacitor 1uf 20% 10V (also 6,3V is fine).

Ciao, è una classica lega stagno/piombo 60/40 di una qualsiasi marca. È il flussante che fa la differenza maggiore.

@@PrimoAngelo che flussante hai usato invece?

Flussante originale Amtech NC-559-v2-tf comprato direttamente dall'America. Attenzione ai fake su ebay/amazon e AliExpress che non sono nemmeno paragonabili e tutti lo imitano o falsificano. Costa molto ma è tra i migliori esistenti.

For small component I use 315°C, for ground anchor point about 340°C.

Hi! Thank you for your comment! 1uF 20% 6.3V 0201 ceramic capacitor (also 10V version or higher voltage version is ok if 6,3V is not available)

thank you mate@@PrimoAngelo

is SP2 Same value?@@PrimoAngelo

Yes, same value.

thank you so much and for those wondering where to find it. in the iphone 7 board there are a few in the charging sysytem.@@PrimoAngelo

Hi! Thank you for the comment!

Hi! Thank you for the comment!

Hi! Thank you for the comment! Oh no, I am sorry for your console. On the bright side, it can be used to gain experience with soldering!

Hi, thank you for your comment! Aixun T3B soldering station and Aoyue® AO968A+ soldering station with hot air.

That sucks

I think it's a 4.7uF 10v Capacitor, 0402 size.

Hi! Thank you for the comment!

It doesn't matter, but starting with the latest firmware is recommended that way the game card reader is also updated and you have fewer problems on emunand when playing cartridge games.

for anyone intrested first update ofm to 17.0.1 then solder chip in my case picofly then hats pack and ure done works for me@@PrimoAngelo

¡Mil gracias! ¡En los próximos videos siempre tocaré música! A thousand thanks! In the next videos, I will always play music!

Hi, my soldering station is AIXUN T3B with standard T210 tip.

@@PrimoAngelo What kind of solder?

Lamento mas o vendedor onde comprei estes kits no Aliexpress já não existe, em teoria são todos iguais. I'm sorry but the seller where I purchased these kits no longer exists, in theory they are all the same.

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much for the comment! The microscope is Andonstar AD407, it is a stand alone microscope with a big display, hdmi output and micro sd card for recording.

Thank you very much!

Your videos are great! Subscribed!

@@PrimoAngelo Thanks to your inspiration they are great! :P And thank you for subscribing! :)

Thank you very much!

Hi, hwfly (original and clones) are no longer in production. Now you can find RP2040 version on aliexpress (lite/core/oled version). Installation is similar, only 3,3v soldering point is now on top under game card reader.

@@PrimoAngelo Thanks! I Will try to install one in my switch lite!

I also realized that, although it depends on the quality of the tin, some do not need very high temperatures.

Não se deve usar está pasta de solda amarela próximo a componentes tão críticos pois ela tem uma pequena taxa de corrosão e condutividade.

Eu só uso o original NC-559-V2-TF AMTECH FLUX que é o melhor fluxo do planeta e não é limpo, ou seja, também pode ser deixado na placa e ao invés de oxidar protege os contatos da oxidação. Mas é um produto que custa muito. I only use original NC-559-V2-TF AMTECH FLUX which is the best flux on the planet and is no clean, meaning it can also be left on the board and instead of oxidizing it protects the contacts from oxidation. But it is a product that costs a lot.

Correct, If the temp is not too high and the contact time of the soldering iron tip is correct, nothing burns.

Hi, thank you for your comment. If the temp is not too high and the contact time of the soldering iron tip is correct, nothing burns.

HWFly are not in production, if you find them they are remaining stocks. Now the only one in production is RP2040 (CORE, LITE and OLED). I bought this and the installation is very similar to the one in the video except for the 3.3v point which is under the cartridge slot cable. it.aliexpress.com/item/1005005780714704.html

Thank you very much for the comment! The microscope is Andonstar AD407.

Hi! Thank you for your comment! No, I didn't insulate the part underneath the chip because this hwfly "clone" already had the underneath part protected in "plastic". Each chip variant is different, if you have a metal bottom, it should still be groung, with a multimeter measurement you can see if there is continuity between the GND point of the top chip and the part below. If you have continuity there is no need to isolate it because it rests on the ground. But you can do it for your peace of mind. No need to glue it down, only the 3 screws (game card slot, speaker, heat sink leg) are there to hold it very securely in place (You can consult the official hwfly lite manual by Team Xecuter searching on the web). It is in fact recommended to fix the chip with the 3 screws before doing the soldering and connecting the cables to avoid damage to the soldering. In reverse if you want to remove the chip, first disconnect the cables and desolder the 3.3V underneath and only at the end remove the 3 screws to free the chip. The new PicoFly variants (the only one currently in production) do not have the 3 screw fixings, so on those it is important to put a good double-sided tape under the chip to prevent it from moving. However, it is VERY important to cover the metal part above the chip with Kapton tape (console back cover/metal shield), as this could cause short circuits if it touches the top part of the chip.

Thank you very much for the comment! The microscope is Andonstar AD407.

@@PrimoAngelo Thank you

Flux is mandatory, especially in such small jobs.

Thank you very much! This was the first switch lite chip installation so I went a little bit slow. The temperature I use for these jobs is between 315°C (for small spots) and 330°C (for large spots that dissipate heat quickly like ground shields). But in my opinion the soldering are also good at different temperatures if you use a good flux. If the flux is bad, the soldering are bad. I only use original NC-559-V2-TF AMTECH FLUX.

​@@PrimoAngelowhich iron dobyou recommend and it looks really easy actually do you think someone you never micro solderd without a microskope can make it?

@@OG-ShortsYT I use a soldering station JC AIXUN T3B 96W T115/210. It seems very easy because everything is magnified 20-40 times. I strongly advise against trying if it is the first time with such small jobs and without the use of a microscope.

@@PrimoAngelo thanks for your reply today i will open my switch and look at the soldering points.

Green solder mask is MECHANIC GY-UVH900

Sorry but I do not have an OLED Switch Console and a chip for oled version...

Saudações! Sinto muito, mas não conheço pontos alternativos... =( Greetings! I'm sorry but I don't know of alternative soldering points... =(

Hi, no space problem. As long as the height of the chip + adapter is equal to or slightly higher than the battery, no problem. In my case the height is the same. The plastic of the back even has an "indentation" in correspondence with the chip and this allows for a good margin.

@@PrimoAngelogot it, thank you!

Hi! The readings vary according to the temperature and the revision of the switch board, it would be useless to have the exact numbers, in diode mode you must have values ​​between 0.4 and 0.8 with a tester lead to ground. If you have 0 or 1 on the multimeter (Continuity or open line) there is a problem. If you have any other value, the installation is correct.

@@PrimoAngelo thanks for the fast reply. Nice soldering skills

Thank to you for the comment! I'm still learning and every day is an opportunity to learn new things.

This chip is a HWFLY version installation, no longer in production. Today you can buy RP2040 version, almost same installation, the only difference is the 3,3v soldering point moved near the card game connector, on the top right.