Hi Greg, This was a superb video and describes the problem I am trying to work out with my shed door. I really appreciate you going into all the detail and it provides the perfect solution !!!!
Hi, Greg. Do you cover how to retrofit new doorsill replacements with remodeling in California? I find most of the 1950s homes loved to use oak sills under the threshold with horns on both sides of the jamb and submerged in the stucco (or butted to the framjng studs). What’s your thoughts on replacing this method to new flush subfloors and omitting the oak sill with prejing doors that have the threshold already attached? I am a bit concerned about the thresholds becoming a trip hazard say an exit door from the kitchen to the patio on a raised foundation.
Great video! What would be a maximum hieght allowed from threshold to landing. Currently have 4.5" concere door sill then another 2" below sill before landing which in total 6.5" drop to landing. Is there a maximum hieght and a minimum hieght? Exterior door swings inside house Home build in 1959. Landing is interlocking bricks Thanks
You would need to check with local building codes, but if it not for public use like a store or bank, you can usually have a maximum of 7 and one half inches or the same maximum height you would for a stair step riser.
Hi Greg, I have a shed that i just had built where i had the builder install full light french doors on a 16x32 ft gambrel style barn with the doors being located on the long eve (non gable) side. There was no soffit built into this design (which is a whole other problem) so the rain water just pours straight down onto the walls. I have built a portico or little wood awning over the french doors to help divert rain but the doors keep leaking. Long story longer. There was no caulking put under or around these doors. There is no flashing of any kind, and there is an adjustable plastic threshhold that seems to be adjusted correctly but with stripped out screws. How do I remove this adjustble threshold so i can remove this door. i know i might beed to drill out theses crew heads, or do i need to even mess with it and just take out the hinge screws holding this door in place and remove the entire door system and start the door install process over and include items and processes that they forgot to do originally? A video series converting a wood shed (poorly built at that) to an hvac studio space would be so awesome and very helpful. There would be so much to cover! Any advice on the door leaking is much appreciated.
I would need more details about your shed conversion, but it sounds interesting. I think I would remove the door, jamb and threshold if possible and re install it correctly.
If you caulk the front, yes it would protect water front coming from the bottom up. But how often does water go up?. Usually the water leaks in the top or sides. So if you caulked the front edge wouldn't you just be trapping the water causing more issues. Same with windows you never caulk the bottom on case water got in it would drain outwards and not inside. Could you make a sill pan out of fiberglass and resin and wrap around the outside a little to make a continious pan with no cuts? I think it'd be easier with fiberglass but haven't ever seen it done. It's done for showers sometimes or even flat roofs why not sills?
I'm having a difficult time figuring out how the water would come up from the bottom, did I say something like that in the video? I'm not 100% sure this would happen, but I think the fiberglass could crack over time, where metal would rust, but might last longer. Again, I'm just thinking out loud and maybe the fiberglass would be better.
@@gregvancom I think what he is saying is if water were to get in on the sides of the door and make its way down to the threshold you would want it t be able to escape out. Calking would prevent that.
@@sleddy01 You do bring up something to consider and it's a good point. Remember, these are only suggestions and won't work in all situations, especially if you have water leaking around the perimeter of the door jamb and getting under the metal.
Yep allow water to get out, don't seal the front horizontally. If you need to glue-seal do it perpendicular or back to front. Even use 3 or 4 small plastic packers to raise the door off the sill a little to allow water to escape. Water can get in from different places so allow it to exit.
Hi Gray, I need to reinstall the paella patio door due to its poorly installation by Lowe’s 2years ago that caused the wood foundation popped out, bugs and flyers coming into a room, and water flew into the track. Do you have a professional/certified contractor to refer? Thank you!
Thanks a lot Greg. Great video. Two things: 1) What are your thoughts on the plastic pvc- glue together door pans?(available from the home stores or online) Are they worth while or junk? Should I just stick with rolled aluminum and a break and make my own? 2)Your pretty good with the drawings, is that sketchup? You should do some videos on that too, your pretty good with that.
+Chris G I've never used a door pan with the drain, living in Southern California. Is this something used on buildings or homes that receive a lot of snow, rain or moisture? Yes this is sketchup and thanks for the compliment.
It just might not last as long as metal, but can be used. In other words, I've never seen it specified by an architect or engineer on a set of building plans.
My thought on just having a L flashing would be that it wouldn't do anything against water intrusion into the corners (which is what happened in my case--though the corner flashing was not done properly)--it's what those sillseal/jamsill units are designed to prevent...
You've got a good point, this is where common sense comes in to play. The way the flashing is designed and assembled correctly will determine just how much water stays out or prevents the wood framing from being damaged.
Caulking the front edge of the pan will trap water if the threshold fails. Instead you should silicone near the inside edge so water has a chance to escape back out. Good video otherwise.
If you seal the back area on top of the metal and underneath the threshold, then you could actually end up with water sitting under the threshold. However, you do bring up point and that is to use the example towards the end of the video, instead of the one at the beginning. Thanks also for presenting your argument in a pleasant way.
If you're asking if somebody has never wrapped or flashed, then absolutely, but if you're asking if someone else has wrapped or flashed than the answer would be yes.
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Hi Greg, This was a superb video and describes the problem I am trying to work out with my shed door. I really appreciate you going into all the detail and it provides the perfect solution !!!!
You're welcome and comments like yours are sincerely appreciated. Thanks for watching.
Hi, Greg. Do you cover how to retrofit new doorsill replacements with remodeling in California? I find most of the 1950s homes loved to use oak sills under the threshold with horns on both sides of the jamb and submerged in the stucco (or butted to the framjng studs). What’s your thoughts on replacing this method to new flush subfloors and omitting the oak sill with prejing doors that have the threshold already attached? I am a bit concerned about the thresholds becoming a trip hazard say an exit door from the kitchen to the patio on a raised foundation.
This is the best video for this job. For real.
Glad you liked it and I agree.
Great video! What would be a maximum hieght allowed from threshold to landing.
Currently have 4.5" concere door sill then another 2" below sill before landing which in total 6.5" drop to landing.
Is there a maximum hieght and a minimum hieght?
Exterior door swings inside house
Home build in 1959.
Landing is interlocking bricks
Thanks
You would need to check with local building codes, but if it not for public use like a store or bank, you can usually have a maximum of 7 and one half inches or the same maximum height you would for a stair step riser.
Hi Greg,
I have a shed that i just had built where i had the builder install full light french doors on a 16x32 ft gambrel style barn with the doors being located on the long eve (non gable) side. There was no soffit built into this design (which is a whole other problem) so the rain water just pours straight down onto the walls. I have built a portico or little wood awning over the french doors to help divert rain but the doors keep leaking. Long story longer. There was no caulking put under or around these doors. There is no flashing of any kind, and there is an adjustable plastic threshhold that seems to be adjusted correctly but with stripped out screws. How do I remove this adjustble threshold so i can remove this door. i know i might beed to drill out theses crew heads, or do i need to even mess with it and just take out the hinge screws holding this door in place and remove the entire door system and start the door install process over and include items and processes that they forgot to do originally? A video series converting a wood shed (poorly built at that) to an hvac studio space would be so awesome and very helpful. There would be so much to cover! Any advice on the door leaking is much appreciated.
I would need more details about your shed conversion, but it sounds interesting. I think I would remove the door, jamb and threshold if possible and re install it correctly.
@@gregvancom Thank You. I watch all your videos and love what you do!
If you caulk the front, yes it would protect water front coming from the bottom up. But how often does water go up?. Usually the water leaks in the top or sides. So if you caulked the front edge wouldn't you just be trapping the water causing more issues. Same with windows you never caulk the bottom on case water got in it would drain outwards and not inside. Could you make a sill pan out of fiberglass and resin and wrap around the outside a little to make a continious pan with no cuts? I think it'd be easier with fiberglass but haven't ever seen it done. It's done for showers sometimes or even flat roofs why not sills?
I'm having a difficult time figuring out how the water would come up from the bottom, did I say something like that in the video? I'm not 100% sure this would happen, but I think the fiberglass could crack over time, where metal would rust, but might last longer. Again, I'm just thinking out loud and maybe the fiberglass would be better.
@@gregvancom I think what he is saying is if water were to get in on the sides of the door and make its way down to the threshold you would want it t be able to escape out. Calking would prevent that.
@@sleddy01 You do bring up something to consider and it's a good point. Remember, these are only suggestions and won't work in all situations, especially if you have water leaking around the perimeter of the door jamb and getting under the metal.
Yep allow water to get out, don't seal the front horizontally.
If you need to glue-seal do it perpendicular or back to front.
Even use 3 or 4 small plastic packers to raise the door off the sill a little to allow water to escape.
Water can get in from different places so allow it to exit.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Hi Gray, I need to reinstall the paella patio door due to its poorly installation by Lowe’s 2years ago that caused the wood foundation popped out, bugs and flyers coming into a room, and water flew into the track. Do you have a professional/certified contractor to refer? Thank you!
Sorry, I don't refer contactors.
Thanks a lot Greg. Great video. Two things: 1) What are your thoughts on the plastic pvc- glue together door pans?(available from the home stores or online) Are they worth while or junk? Should I just stick with rolled aluminum and a break and make my own? 2)Your pretty good with the drawings, is that sketchup? You should do some videos on that too, your pretty good with that.
+Chris G I've never used a door pan with the drain, living in Southern California. Is this something used on buildings or homes that receive a lot of snow, rain or moisture? Yes this is sketchup and thanks for the compliment.
Is flashing needed for a threshold if it's concrete?
Yes, to help the water roll off this area.
Top video mate. 👍
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching.
Would butyl flashing tape work in this area?
It just might not last as long as metal, but can be used. In other words, I've never seen it specified by an architect or engineer on a set of building plans.
My thought on just having a L flashing would be that it wouldn't do anything against water intrusion into the corners (which is what happened in my case--though the corner flashing was not done properly)--it's what those sillseal/jamsill units are designed to prevent...
You've got a good point, this is where common sense comes in to play. The way the flashing is designed and assembled correctly will determine just how much water stays out or prevents the wood framing from being damaged.
Caulking the front edge of the pan will trap water if the threshold fails. Instead you should silicone near the inside edge so water has a chance to escape back out. Good video otherwise.
If you seal the back area on top of the metal and underneath the threshold, then you could actually end up with water sitting under the threshold. However, you do bring up point and that is to use the example towards the end of the video, instead of the one at the beginning. Thanks also for presenting your argument in a pleasant way.
"someone never wrapped or flashed scenario, yes",
If you're asking if somebody has never wrapped or flashed, then absolutely, but if you're asking if someone else has wrapped or flashed than the answer would be yes.
I cannot for the life of me figure out why on earth exterior doors are designed this way. It's only an invitation to rot and insects.