Another great video, thank you. Crocs..? Really..? And Crocs with socks..? I feel a Dr Suess moment coming on! I do not wear my patent Docs, I do not wear my Crocs with socks. I like to wear my big steel caps, As building sites still have mishaps. It is old fashioned, I suppose, To be attached to all ten toes. And despite fashion crimes like those, Keep making your fine videos. 🏅
Good job, is there any reason you dont bend the flashing 5/8" at 90 deg at back of the door, create a lip so that if the silicone ever was to fail, water cannot proceed any further? Also why dont you install zip tape vertically first, then horizontally to prevent any chance of water intrusion behind the tape?
@@Atheyst I believe it can if not properly put on, a roller is specified so that the adhesive activates, which can take up 24 hours! There are stress tests videos on zip system which highlight problems with it
Probably better to install tape vert, then horizontal piece at top. And definitely roll it. There’s likely to be a bunch of different ways to do this flashing with good results. That flashing tape forgives a lot.
Not back flange at the interior side. The caulking under the door sill will block water from exiting the front edge of the door so flashing this will allow water to flow back across the flashing and inside the house because there is no back flange on the sillpan flashing. If this door is located on a brick veneer wall , water absorbing into the brick mortar especially the brick above the door can travel down the back of the brick and around the door where it will leak inside because the caulking and the sillpan are not done correctly. Take a look at the pre-made sill pans they all have a raised edge around three sides of the sill pan this prevents water from traveling back inside the house. Great effort but bad thought process
I would have liked to see the tape installed differently. Vertical first then the top piece shingled over top. Could go overkill & put redgaurd on the wood before any of that!! Why not?
Great video but i want to add few things to it from my past experiences. 1. You should bend the flashing at 90 degrees, when water go under the door that will help to prevent water going pass the door. 2. Better to add liquid flash to cover the nails and corner AVM system.
This is where you get your HVAC guy to build pans with soldered seams. Bending your own metal and then adding a dollop of sealant in the corner is half-assed. Needs a back dam on the inside as well.
I just took out out a old french door to put a new one in. They did not use a flashing kit at all but whatever caulk they used, it sealed it up tighter than Fort Knox. It was quite a challenge to get out. They probably got lucky as the door was covered by a big eaves overhang. I will be using a pan kit and proper flashing this time!
I agree on all you do. No return up on back side of threshold?? Why not ?? What's to prevent water on coming in and compromising sub floor and structure??
Very Good .. I like to as well bend a back dam . about 1/2 " in case the sealant doesn't muddle in every void Some door sills have under-voids and others are solid .. By the shade it seems that you are in a " Sheltered Area " so the danger of water is less .. So I always say " Anticipate that the rain is coming sideways " ... Good job .. Nice to see people doing it right instead of being chimps with tool belts .. Also as well .. Nice to have a closely colored flashing to the finish since the flashing should be partially exposed instead of resting the siding on the deck .. " Wick " .. Most goomba's never take that into consideration since their grand-pappies been building since the turn of the century !! ..
great vid. i would have put the zip tape first; touching the wood. why? metal will ALWAYS conduct water vapour in ALL climates. metal sweats and over time can rot the wood, even if slowly. the zip tape aint gonna rot, so the metal can sweat all day and cause no issues. and next, put a bead of lexel under the metal so bugs and air dont get in. I also cringed when you put nails right thru the metal into the floor. Now, only the lexel is keeping water and air out. And yes your monster over hangs will prevent a large issue to begin with. thanks
Pretty good. But I like to bend a 5/8" lip up on the back side of the pan.. that way if rain ever got past the sealant it couldn't go past the door pan.. but you about nailed it....
Building up in the mountains is not easy. Especially if you are not there. Hired one contractor to install my sliders. Told me it was bone dry inside. Not! Hired another contractor. Had the same problem. Came across your video on how to do it properly. I took a week off of work and seeing that they were 8' sliders and 12' openings I hired a couple of guys for the heavy lifting and did myself. Guess what? No more leaks. Even took a pressure washer to it, just to make sure. I watch your videos all the time. You guys are the best!
why dont you cut the house wrap to over lap the flashing and then tap. Even if the tape fails in some areas it would keep the bulk water from getting behind the flashing.
This is the video I’ve been searching for. But I’d give anything to see the next step in succession. I’ve got a bad wall downstairs, previous owners did a dodgy and every time it rains water gets is, and it rotted out the threshold and skirting. I’m looking for a way to fix it properly so it never happens again.
Extra piece of metal does nothing haha, it just doubled up what was there. Door and window pans should always have an upturn in the back to stop water from reaching the interior of the house
very poor work! sorry but the vapor barrier goes above the flashings to ensure any water/condensation behind the veneering can escape. the tape to seal the flashing on the vapor barrier is no good because overtime the tape will let water go behind the flashing and will be caught there making the structure rot
After decades of building I have to love and appreciate flashing details. Maybe you fellows could do a series of all the flashing details from windows to beauty bands, but especially fireplace and other roof penetration's.
Are you guys somewhere it Snows? The reason I ask is I hate it when the put doors at deck level here. A single step up is always better when you will have snow setting on the deck here.
Looks pretty watertight guys, great job! I too am very conscious of making my opens watertight so they last for many years. I install all of my doors with stainless steel pans with welded corners. I also do a 1.5 inch turn up on the interior side edge of the pan and 10 inch both end of the pan and a built in drip edge to the exterior edge. I know it sounds a little extreme but when you have a 150k wood floor in a house and you're in a hurricane zone and constant saltwater air. Stainless steel let's me sleep at night. The stainless adds abought $1,000.00 per opening. Great channel guys!
Wow!! I want to see a video about your flashing... and thanks for explaining the cost difference! I don’t blame you with that kind of money invested in the floors... doors are the most likely place for water to get to the floors and cause a problem. Thanks for watching!
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers Thank you for the reply. I just finished up a total gut back to the CBS Shell house renovation with full window package about 4 weeks ago. I wish I shot a video. I'll try and do it on the next one. Until next time Throw the hammer in the back.... lol
I must say that most of your videos are very helpful but I have to disagree with this flashing method. First all relying on sealant to form a Water tight seal is not best practice. Our firm typically installs a layer of bithuthane flashing at the bottom sill the width of the opening with flex wrap up the sides about 18” and overlapping the sill material by about 12” minimum. Also with using metal at the sill and then driving nails through it looks like a Water infiltration issue waiting to happen.
Wow you guys are talented AND handsome! Fun to watch. Oh, and thank you for showing me how to fix my shower door flashing. I wear crocs when I do my construction work as well. :)
agree with arthurdentzappobeeb. soldered pan preferrably copper with back dam. nail the bends..do not nail into the sill. liquid flashing like fast flash better than bituthane. that being said, they did a pretty good job compared to what a lot of people do
Awesome job !! Hey check out poly wall barrier system for doors and windows you won’t be disappointed it’s a great product I’m just saying that because it’s made in Texas lol
The metal sill pan may not be the best solution for your climate and home. The material causes a thermal bridge that ultimately creates moisture where you were trying to keep it out. I’m no scientist however I believe lead does not transfer temperature as drastically and is used commonly for sill pans. Plastic pans are a nice idea but don’t typically come in one piece which is not ideal .
Any reason you dont cut your house wrap and tuck the flashing under it? Zip tap is good but shingleing house wrap over flashing is better. Tape over house wrap creates a reverse shingle.
Mic Mills I just finished up a job redoing the siding, windows, doors, and trim on a building in a climate that gets decent snow fall in northern Arizona. The previous installers had cut the house wrap each time they installed flashing above the windows and there were water issues at every single cut. With this door flashing, I could see you doing the flashing first then wrapping over the side flashing to shingle that correctly. But I just am not a fan of cutting house wrap unless you’re really going to go wild with the peel and stick. Just my 2 cents
@@brantmorgan4390 they must not have taped the cuts above the windows. I am certified in tyvek and that is how they said it has to be done to warranty the housewrap.
I am living in a house built in the late 60's. I need to do a lot to make my doors and windows airtight -- I am on a limited budget and are there any do-it-yourself stuff that I can use to get the job done). Any suggestions
Could you have used flexible flashing tape instead of the metal one? Also, I have a shed/office built on a concrete slab with osb sheeting. I will be installing shiplap cladding. Do you have any recommendations on how to flash the door opening?
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[1/2] แก๊ง 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้บุก CAMPปลิ้นครั้งนี้ห้ามเสียอาการ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_6WUjXHe1TM/mqdefault.jpg)
Another great video, thank you. Crocs..? Really..? And Crocs with socks..? I feel a Dr Suess moment coming on!
I do not wear my patent Docs,
I do not wear my Crocs with socks.
I like to wear my big steel caps,
As building sites still have mishaps.
It is old fashioned, I suppose,
To be attached to all ten toes.
And despite fashion crimes like those,
Keep making your fine videos. 🏅
That was awesome!! Reading it to my kids right now👍👍
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers Hahahaha! As an ex-teacher, that just makes my day! G'night!
Rock the Crocs! Just gotta be smart and safe. I wear them on the roof provided I can.
Jason wins the internet today! 💰💰💰
Crocs are super comfortable. Which model are those?
Shouldn't you start your tape from the bottom and work your way up 🤷🏽♂️
Good job, is there any reason you dont bend the flashing 5/8" at 90 deg at back of the door, create a lip so that if the silicone ever was to fail, water cannot proceed any further? Also why dont you install zip tape vertically first, then horizontally to prevent any chance of water intrusion behind the tape?
Tape tape does not leak.
@@Atheyst I believe it can if not properly put on, a roller is specified so that the adhesive activates, which can take up 24 hours! There are stress tests videos on zip system which highlight problems with it
@@t00018645 yes, not sure if he rolled it but it is useless unless rolled on.
Probably better to install tape vert, then horizontal piece at top. And definitely roll it. There’s likely to be a bunch of different ways to do this flashing with good results. That flashing tape forgives a lot.
If I’m going to the effort to put a pan under the door it always has the return bend at the back
should be titled: "installing a pan"
Not back flange at the interior side. The caulking under the door sill will block water from exiting the front edge of the door so flashing this will allow water to flow back across the flashing and inside the house because there is no back flange on the sillpan flashing. If this door is located on a brick veneer wall , water absorbing into the brick mortar especially the brick above the door can travel down the back of the brick and around the door where it will leak inside because the caulking and the sillpan are not done correctly. Take a look at the pre-made sill pans they all have a raised edge around three sides of the sill pan this prevents water from traveling back inside the house.
Great effort but bad thought process
I would have liked to see the tape installed differently. Vertical first then the top piece shingled over top. Could go overkill & put redgaurd on the wood before any of that!! Why not?
I like overkill!
Great video but i want to add few things to it from my past experiences.
1. You should bend the flashing at 90 degrees, when water go under the door that will help to prevent water going pass the door.
2. Better to add liquid flash to cover the nails and corner AVM system.
This Chanel is a treasure! Keep em coming
Wish i watched this before i installed my door😩 love to SEE your tips and tricks.
from Norway
This is where you get your HVAC guy to build pans with soldered seams. Bending your own metal and then adding a dollop of sealant in the corner is half-assed. Needs a back dam on the inside as well.
Someone had to say it....
I just took out out a old french door to put a new one in. They did not use a flashing kit at all but whatever caulk they used, it sealed it up tighter than Fort Knox. It was quite a challenge to get out. They probably got lucky as the door was covered by a big eaves overhang. I will be using a pan kit and proper flashing this time!
Nails in the bottom of the pan? Noooooooo
This door is under a porch roof. I guess if we get 40 days and nights of rain it could be an issue.
What would you advise if the floor is a concrete slab ?
The flash on the bottom @ 5 is to cover the fruit door situation as thats what it did before it left my benz 😂
You guys are doing a great job with this channel.
Looks great, if I could make a small suggestion.
I like a to bend an upside down hem on the inside to keep any potential water corralled.
Just think like water and you will be fine
Yup....theres alot of good reliable brands out there...but I prefer Lexel also...and it does seal on a damp surface.
Crazy to see how far you guys have come
I agree on all you do. No return up on back side of threshold?? Why not ?? What's to prevent water on coming in and compromising sub floor and structure??
What a…….. croc….. ahhhhh!? Ahhhhh!
Very Good .. I like to as well bend a back dam . about 1/2 " in case the sealant doesn't muddle in every void Some door sills have under-voids and others are solid .. By the shade it seems that you are in a " Sheltered Area " so the danger of water is less .. So I always say " Anticipate that the rain is coming sideways " ... Good job .. Nice to see people doing it right instead of being chimps with tool belts .. Also as well .. Nice to have a closely colored flashing to the finish since the flashing should be partially exposed instead of resting the siding on the deck .. " Wick " .. Most goomba's never take that into consideration since their grand-pappies been building since the turn of the century !! ..
great vid. i would have put the zip tape first; touching the wood. why? metal will ALWAYS conduct water vapour in ALL climates. metal sweats and over time can rot the wood, even if slowly. the zip tape aint gonna rot, so the metal can sweat all day and cause no issues. and next, put a bead of lexel under the metal so bugs and air dont get in. I also cringed when you put nails right thru the metal into the floor. Now, only the lexel is keeping water and air out. And yes your monster over hangs will prevent a large issue to begin with. thanks
Pretty good. But I like to bend a 5/8" lip up on the back side of the pan.. that way if rain ever got past the sealant it couldn't go past the door pan.. but you about nailed it....
Building up in the mountains is not easy. Especially if you are not there. Hired one contractor to install my sliders. Told me it was bone dry inside. Not! Hired another contractor. Had the same problem.
Came across your video on how to do it properly. I took a week off of work and seeing that they were 8' sliders and 12' openings I hired a couple of guys for the heavy lifting and did myself. Guess what? No more leaks. Even took a pressure washer to it, just to make sure. I watch your videos all the time. You guys are the best!
Oh dasaa mmn
Maaan. You just lost your fingers? How tf did that happen? I thought it was years ago
why dont you cut the house wrap to over lap the flashing and then tap. Even if the tape fails in some areas it would keep the bulk water from getting behind the flashing.
Makes me sad knowing that this homie lost his fingers later on to a planer.
This is the video I’ve been searching for. But I’d give anything to see the next step in succession. I’ve got a bad wall downstairs, previous owners did a dodgy and every time it rains water gets is, and it rotted out the threshold and skirting. I’m looking for a way to fix it properly so it never happens again.
Extra piece of metal does nothing haha, it just doubled up what was there. Door and window pans should always have an upturn in the back to stop water from reaching the interior of the house
very poor work! sorry but the vapor barrier goes above the flashings to ensure any water/condensation behind the veneering can escape. the tape to seal the flashing on the vapor barrier is no good because overtime the tape will let water go behind the flashing and will be caught there making the structure rot
After decades of building I have to love and appreciate flashing details. Maybe you fellows could do a series of all the flashing details from windows to beauty bands, but especially fireplace and other roof penetration's.
Roof penetrations in shingles are easy, what amuses me is the flashing details on steel roofs with skylights and chimneys and such
Are you guys somewhere it Snows? The reason I ask is I hate it when the put doors at deck level here. A single step up is always better when you will have snow setting on the deck here.
Looks pretty watertight guys, great job! I too am very conscious of making my opens watertight so they last for many years. I install all of my doors with stainless steel pans with welded corners. I also do a 1.5 inch turn up on the interior side edge of the pan and 10 inch both end of the pan and a built in drip edge to the exterior edge. I know it sounds a little extreme but when you have a 150k wood floor in a house and you're in a hurricane zone and constant saltwater air. Stainless steel let's me sleep at night. The stainless adds abought $1,000.00 per opening. Great channel guys!
Wow!! I want to see a video about your flashing... and thanks for explaining the cost difference! I don’t blame you with that kind of money invested in the floors... doors are the most likely place for water to get to the floors and cause a problem. Thanks for watching!
@@PerkinsBuilderBrothers Thank you for the reply. I just finished up a total gut back to the CBS Shell house renovation with full window package about 4 weeks ago. I wish I shot a video. I'll try and do it on the next one. Until next time Throw the hammer in the back.... lol
$1,000 ?? surely you are off by 1-2 digits !
My implement this shed building program best best best !!!
Just nip the opposite side of where your wanting to bend that 90, see how your top had a wrinkle in it, nip 1/8th an it wont do that.
I must say that most of your videos are very helpful but I have to disagree with this flashing method. First all relying on sealant to form a Water tight seal is not best practice. Our firm typically installs a layer of bithuthane flashing at the bottom sill the width of the opening with flex wrap up the sides about 18” and overlapping the sill material by about 12” minimum. Also with using metal at the sill and then driving nails through it looks like a Water infiltration issue waiting to happen.
Always room for improvement is our motto brother.. sound like you guys really do a nice job 👍
What s wrong with jamie right hand ? An accident happened ? So sad bro
Great job. Never thought id say that to a carpenter in crocs. Those need to be burned
Where. Did you get those snips, lm a builder and where croc s until the snow flies in Canada
👍👍 hey we bought them at a roofing supply company called All Aluminum Company. I’ll see if I can find them online and post a link
Posted a link in the description
WoW‼️ Can’t handle ALL this perfection‼️
Thank You 😊 for Another Excellent Video and Edit‼️
🛠🔨📐✨🏆🍑🍑🍑🍑🍑
Beau boulot 😉👍
Vien regarder ma chaîne TH-cam elle peut t'intéresser 😜👍
Perfect nice work..
Yea I’d avoid this and use the new flex tape products
Well this must be an older video you still have all your fingers!
Who nails through the tread of a flashing ??!?
Construction glue under the flashing, no nails
Fengtao Wang a super think bead of silicone works for me. You should never penetrate the tread or sill of a flashing
I was thinking the same
He was so proud he “nailed it” too smh
Einstein
Level
Is great but no work time it skins super fast.
Question: would you do flashing on brick?
Yes. Google brick ledge flashing.
I do all my flashing while wearing Crocs
So ya make a water sealed pan then proceed to puncture with nails ?
Good job. Impressed with those tin snips.
there's many ways to put in a door with flashing .... this is one of the better ways. Great job PB Brothers
I usually do the exact same but with blueskin
I love your guy stuff I think that's an OSHA violation with them Crocs not to mention when you get older man you going to have some f*****-up feet
Not to mention no gloves!
Hahaha was gonna give ya shit about your crocs but you brought em up in the last second hahahaha only the boss could get away with that
Haha 🤜🤛
Lolz that's fucking hack and slash
All your flashing and taping should have been installed under your house wrap....waterfall just like roofing....Just a little extra protection
Once again- excellent video- TX.
Can't subscribe just because of the crocs
Nice video
They have new flashing tape out that you can nail to
Couple more of your videos and I am pretty sure I will be able to build my own house 😉
He has fingers!
Wow young brother needs to step his quality of work up...pretty horrible job on the flashing
You put the zip tape on in the wrong order
Love what you’re doing! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Keep it coming!
i feel like wearing crocs while installing a door is a safety hazard
Wow you guys are talented AND handsome! Fun to watch. Oh, and thank you for showing me how to fix my shower door flashing. I wear crocs when I do my construction work as well. :)
agree with arthurdentzappobeeb. soldered pan preferrably copper with back dam. nail the bends..do not nail into the sill. liquid flashing like fast flash better than bituthane. that being said, they did a pretty good job compared to what a lot of people do
Do you install a sill pan on top of gypcrete?
no rolling the zip tape with a roller?
Thanks for the tutorial!
Question...how many cuts to your hands do you sustain every day?
What the name of that flashing
Could you please do a video to show how to apply drip cap OVER an existing door on a vinyl sided house?
Wear your knee pads bro!
Doesnt that create a reverse lap at the sill pan? Shouldnt the tyvek WRB lap in a shingled manner onto the pan?
Awesome job !! Hey check out poly wall barrier system for doors and windows you won’t be disappointed it’s a great product I’m just saying that because it’s made in Texas lol
Thanks can you send me a link?
Perkins Builder Brothers poly-wall.com/ I also really like the zip board brand liquid flashing
TarPaper cheaper. Just saying
Jamie is decked out!
Do you do the same for concrete and how do you nail it to concrete? Thank you
I get nailing the pan to the Walls but why nail to the floor isn’t it just creating a potential problem?
I wouldn't let contractors on site without proper safety shoes
The metal sill pan may not be the best solution for your climate and home. The material causes a thermal bridge that ultimately creates moisture where you were trying to keep it out. I’m no scientist however I believe lead does not transfer temperature as drastically and is used commonly for sill pans. Plastic pans are a nice idea but don’t typically come in one piece which is not ideal .
are those the new OSHA approved steel toe crocs? with the covid vents?
Any reason you dont cut your house wrap and tuck the flashing under it? Zip tap is good but shingleing house wrap over flashing is better. Tape over house wrap creates a reverse shingle.
Mic Mills I just finished up a job redoing the siding, windows, doors, and trim on a building in a climate that gets decent snow fall in northern Arizona. The previous installers had cut the house wrap each time they installed flashing above the windows and there were water issues at every single cut. With this door flashing, I could see you doing the flashing first then wrapping over the side flashing to shingle that correctly. But I just am not a fan of cutting house wrap unless you’re really going to go wild with the peel and stick. Just my 2 cents
@@brantmorgan4390 they must not have taped the cuts above the windows. I am certified in tyvek and that is how they said it has to be done to warranty the housewrap.
Mic Mills You are correct, no tape anywhere on any of the building
Did you use galvanized roofing nails to nail the aluminum pan in place?
Reverse flashed the tape at the top of the metal flash...otherwise nice work.
I am living in a house built in the late 60's. I need to do a lot to make my doors and windows airtight -- I am on a limited budget and are there any do-it-yourself stuff that I can use to get the job done). Any suggestions
ROLL THE TAPE :P
You guys are awesome keep up the good work, personally love getting schooled,lol. Been learning a ton from you guys,thanks.
Awesome! Much appreciated brother
Zip tape needs to be rolled with a zip roller (or other textured roller) to properly adhere. it doesn't work the same as vycor or protecto wrap.
Glad I'm not the only one that wears Crocks on job site
The right way to do it very simple thank you
Yikes
,home
I just love all you do and I have learnt so much. Scottish John
Never be allowed on a job site out here wearing those
Dope ty am doing a doorway atm n this helped
You should use gloves J
That looks sharp 😀
Great job by the way
If you need heating and cooling system let me know 😀
Sick details
I'm just now getting around to watching the old videos but im loving them~
The intro makes Jamie look like a millennial car salesman... 😂🤷🏻♂️
These earlier vids are soo good too. Hope these get recycled in the future as new subscribers might not dig in to the past to see these great ones too
Could you have used flexible flashing tape instead of the metal one? Also, I have a shed/office built on a concrete slab with osb sheeting. I will be installing shiplap cladding. Do you have any recommendations on how to flash the door opening?