I know this is 3 years old, but just bought a new Mustang GT. Thank you for the video! I just finished running my power wire for a sub like you show in the video. So easy and so clean! Appreciate you my friend.
Same with me; very helpful video. Just got a 2020 Mustang and I didn't like other videos that showed cutting your factory grommet and shoving the wire in through there.
I just ask my local CKR to do this for me, and they wanted to charge me over 600 dollars to run 2 wires! I kindly walked out the door thinking they are all on crack lol! I will be doing this myself. Thank you sir!
picking up my 2018 mustang tomorrow. going to have to move my subs and amp into it, so this information really helps man. you are selfless for taking the time to show me and your other viewers the way you did things in such a professional way. cheers
Dude, thanks a ton for your series of Mustang audio upgrade videos, especially this one. Everyone else tries to tell you to run your power along with the factory harness out through the fender well. I didn’t fell too good about running a 0 gauge wire through something that close to the suspension. Putting in Focals as well. Reprogrammed my radio with FORScan.
I also wanted to say thank you. Your videos gave me courage to entertain the idea of installing my own set-up. Now I took PTO from work and will install my set-up within the next few days.
Did you have any issue with the power wire being attached to that point on the positive terminal. I’m being lead to believe it’s not a good source of power because of the graphite. I’d rather not use a terminal adapter if it isn’t necessary.
Hey man great job on the install. About the audio control. I wanted to do the same in my mustang however. I couldn't find a answer on weather I could still retain the balance and the fade for the individual speakers with the audio control.
Yes. Fade and balance is retained and controlled by factory head unit. The audiocontrol gives you even greater control by allowing you to set the gain on the speaker pair and the timing on a specific speaker. I have my fronts and rears on separate stereo inputs. I will be getting more in to the audiocontrol on part 10 - final tuning.
I’m just a little confused. I have the DM 608 and am about to run the power wires for it. Does the fused wire for the DSP also connect to battery like the amp power wire?
I'm aware this is old, but looking for info. Ran my power cable same route on my S197 and I have major radio reception interference. Wondering if you're antenna cable is run alongside you power cable, and if you experience any radio reception interference?
Quick question concerning your setup as I have pretty much mimicked this to a certain point and you may have already answered this but I'm at thr pointy of adding the dsp and I keep hearing "go active" for full potential but I think you stayed passive. Save here and dont want to redo everything so does this still give you a noticeable diffrence and is starting passive up front ok?
I'm not sure if you ever found the answer to your question or not. Full active is like night and day compared to passive. However, you will need to take in consideration your particular setup because the decision will depending on it. If you have a DSP, I highly recommend going full active. This is because you can get your crossover points exactly where they need to be with no worries of damaging the speakers. If you don't have a DSP, you will need to look at your amp settings and crossover points for the frequency. If it doesn't go high enough for tweeters, I would advise to go the passive route using the crossovers that came with your component speakers. If you have an aftermarket stereo and you're not using the stock head unit, you can look at the settings and the crossover points to see the frequency ranges to see if the option for adjusting the frequency is there with high frequency points. I went fully active because I'm using a DSP and I have two 4 channel amps to handle all of my interior speakers. I have one amp strictly doing my tweeters on channels 1 & 2 and my 2 inch mid drivers are on channels 3 & 4. On my other 4 channel I have my 6.5 mid bass subs on channels 1 & 2 and my rear deck speakers on channels 3 & 4. Seeing the frequency to match the speakers is the key. Once that's done you can mess with time alignment if you have a DSP to get it perfect.
What head was on the bolt you connected your negative to under the seat? Also, what did you use to get the bolt out? Anyways, great vid. It really helped me out a lot.
I have a 19 convertible and need to run a 0 gauge power and 0 gauge ground front to back battery looks like you use 4 gauge do you thin 2 runs of 0 gauge will fit how you did it?
Where did you get your 12v for the sound control, did you run a separate wire along with the amp wire...or did you run a short one from the amp to the sound control?
I listen to it daily and love it. It’s difficult to demonstrate the sound on a TH-cam video. Justified? Nothing you do to a car including buying a new one is justified financially. They all depreciate. Ask a 911 owner.
I've invested $4000 into my system. It's not justified at all. However, my car is my toy and I'm an audiophile that's very big on sound and sound quality. After purchasing a DSP, 3 amplifiers, a good set of speakers for the interior, great subs, and a deep cycle AGM battery for the trunk there was no turning back. I have ripped out all of my panels, carpet, and headliner to put sound deadener throughout my car from the doors, the floor, and the roof. My trunk has an extra layer of closed cell foam to help with rattles. There are budget setups that can be done on the car which would run about $300 if you're just doing a basic amp and subs, you can just use a line out converter to get a signal.
Still helping people with this video 5 years later, boss! Perfect for running my new power wire to replace my stock amp/sub
I know this is 3 years old, but just bought a new Mustang GT. Thank you for the video! I just finished running my power wire for a sub like you show in the video. So easy and so clean! Appreciate you my friend.
Same with me; very helpful video. Just got a 2020 Mustang and I didn't like other videos that showed cutting your factory grommet and shoving the wire in through there.
I just ask my local CKR to do this for me, and they wanted to charge me over 600 dollars to run 2 wires! I kindly walked out the door thinking they are all on crack lol! I will be doing this myself. Thank you sir!
picking up my 2018 mustang tomorrow. going to have to move my subs and amp into it, so this information really helps man. you are selfless for taking the time to show me and your other viewers the way you did things in such a professional way. cheers
Also wanted to thank you for this tutorial as i followed it exactly for my 2021 mustang amp wire install. Took like 20 mins, you rock!
Dude, thanks a ton for your series of Mustang audio upgrade videos, especially this one. Everyone else tries to tell you to run your power along with the factory harness out through the fender well. I didn’t fell too good about running a 0 gauge wire through something that close to the suspension.
Putting in Focals as well. Reprogrammed my radio with FORScan.
Perfect exactly what I was looking for hate seeing wires hanging everywhere especially in my 40,000 dollar car.
Thank you. This is a great idea instead of cutting into another factory grommet. I appreciate your video. Thanks.
thanks for this. i was loookin for a different route other then behind the passenger front wheel well!
thanks for your video and effort
I also wanted to say thank you. Your videos gave me courage to entertain the idea of installing my own set-up. Now I took PTO from work and will install my set-up within the next few days.
Good luck! Glad I could help.
Thanks I’m getting ready to relocate the battery on a 14 Stang convertible.
Ya this is an awesome video and a great documentation of the install process, thanks for such an awesome effort
Just wanted to say thank you - these vids were a lifesaver!
Thanks for the help, it was much appreciated.
Great video. I would love to do this myself, but my skill is just not there. Thank you for educating me further on the subject.
Did you have any issue with the power wire being attached to that point on the positive terminal. I’m being lead to believe it’s not a good source of power because of the graphite. I’d rather not use a terminal adapter if it isn’t necessary.
Hey man great job on the install. About the audio control. I wanted to do the same in my mustang however. I couldn't find a answer on weather I could still retain the balance and the fade for the individual speakers with the audio control.
Yes. Fade and balance is retained and controlled by factory head unit. The audiocontrol gives you even greater control by allowing you to set the gain on the speaker pair and the timing on a specific speaker. I have my fronts and rears on separate stereo inputs. I will be getting more in to the audiocontrol on part 10 - final tuning.
Also figured out to remove rear deck cover without removing any of the interior.
Info please
starting my install today thanks for the info
Worked like a charm....thanks a million
Hey Jason! What did you use to tap the small gauge dsp power/ground wires into the 4guage power wires to the amp? Thanks for your help!
I’m just a little confused. I have the DM 608 and am about to run the power wires for it. Does the fused wire for the DSP also connect to battery like the amp power wire?
I'm aware this is old, but looking for info. Ran my power cable same route on my S197 and I have major radio reception interference. Wondering if you're antenna cable is run alongside you power cable, and if you experience any radio reception interference?
Thank you sir
Do you know how to replace the center dash speaker on the premium shaker system?
Great vids man
Thanks man! I have never replaced the center dash speaker in a shaker system.
Quick question concerning your setup as I have pretty much mimicked this to a certain point and you may have already answered this but I'm at thr pointy of adding the dsp and I keep hearing "go active" for full potential but I think you stayed passive. Save here and dont want to redo everything so does this still give you a noticeable diffrence and is starting passive up front ok?
I'm not sure if you ever found the answer to your question or not. Full active is like night and day compared to passive. However, you will need to take in consideration your particular setup because the decision will depending on it.
If you have a DSP, I highly recommend going full active. This is because you can get your crossover points exactly where they need to be with no worries of damaging the speakers. If you don't have a DSP, you will need to look at your amp settings and crossover points for the frequency. If it doesn't go high enough for tweeters, I would advise to go the passive route using the crossovers that came with your component speakers.
If you have an aftermarket stereo and you're not using the stock head unit, you can look at the settings and the crossover points to see the frequency ranges to see if the option for adjusting the frequency is there with high frequency points.
I went fully active because I'm using a DSP and I have two 4 channel amps to handle all of my interior speakers. I have one amp strictly doing my tweeters on channels 1 & 2 and my 2 inch mid drivers are on channels 3 & 4. On my other 4 channel I have my 6.5 mid bass subs on channels 1 & 2 and my rear deck speakers on channels 3 & 4.
Seeing the frequency to match the speakers is the key. Once that's done you can mess with time alignment if you have a DSP to get it perfect.
What head was on the bolt you connected your negative to under the seat? Also, what did you use to get the bolt out? Anyways, great vid. It really helped me out a lot.
T50 Torx. I used a 1/2" battery impact. Same technique used on seat removal here -> th-cam.com/video/tdI4nckXeg4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks man, keep up the good work.
I have a 19 convertible and need to run a 0 gauge power and 0 gauge ground front to back battery looks like you use 4 gauge do you thin 2 runs of 0 gauge will fit how you did it?
I would think so. The door seal trim may be tricky.
Is possible to upgrade the Mustangs battery 96R? Its quite small. If so, what kind will fit?
Great videos by the way!
A couple of guys in our local club have this battery. www.powerstridebattery.com/bci-group-96r-odyssey-pc1200mjt-battery
GJDGarage Is this also a starting battery? How does it fit in the engine bay? Do I need to do some mods to make it fit?
I’ve seen it used as a direct drop-in, no mods. Yes it is the cranking battery too.
Thank you this will be my next battery
I did but, the cover didn’t fit so I took it out and, just left it like that. 😜
Where did you get your 12v for the sound control, did you run a separate wire along with the amp wire...or did you run a short one from the amp to the sound control?
Main power - Amp to DSP (short wire)
Remote turn on - DSP to amp (when DSP senses sound on input it supplies remote turn on)
nice !!
Did you encounter any speaker pop when the system shuts off?
Yes. I adjusted it out with gains on dsp.
Have you demonstrated you sound system? I’m about to purchase all my equipment. But is $1500 justified to spend in our s550’s?
I listen to it daily and love it. It’s difficult to demonstrate the sound on a TH-cam video. Justified? Nothing you do to a car including buying a new one is justified financially. They all depreciate. Ask a 911 owner.
I've invested $4000 into my system. It's not justified at all. However, my car is my toy and I'm an audiophile that's very big on sound and sound quality. After purchasing a DSP, 3 amplifiers, a good set of speakers for the interior, great subs, and a deep cycle AGM battery for the trunk there was no turning back. I have ripped out all of my panels, carpet, and headliner to put sound deadener throughout my car from the doors, the floor, and the roof. My trunk has an extra layer of closed cell foam to help with rattles.
There are budget setups that can be done on the car which would run about $300 if you're just doing a basic amp and subs, you can just use a line out converter to get a signal.
Excellent video, as usual!
Question...did you have to put in a radio code since the battery was disconnect for a while?
I did not.
@@GJDGarage Okay, thank you.
Should have just run your cables through the intake sound tube hole. On drivers side
I went for the shortest route (best practice). My amp and battery are on the passenger side.
David stang2018 Do you have more information on that way through the sound tube? Any tools or much removal of parts/covers required?
@@I-come-from-the-Future I took my sound tube off so then you have a small hole going in . not hard to get to
Car is way too clean. I have trust issues 😂