You should set gains with the engine running. With it off you only get around 12 volts to the system where running the voltage is slightly above 14. Most amps are going to make more clean power at the higher voltage.
I explained how I ran it. The battery died on the camera as I was doing it and didn’t notice until I was finished. Once you remove the battery and battery box you’ll have plenty of room to drill through the firewall. I drilled just under the air intake vent. You can gain easy access from inside the car by undoing the glove box and letting it hang. I then ran the wire beside the factory loom under the trim to the back of the car. I used a grommet when going through the firewall and Tessa taped it to make it look factory. Hope this helps! If you need further help let me know.
I have a question. I ordered the same pair of front and rear speakers as you and a kenwood amp to power them. Now I've been looking into settings gains and I'm not an expert on it but can I set the volume to 20/30 and then start adjusting gains till V reaches 13.41 as my amp outputs 45rms at 4ohms or is there a distortion from factory radio above 19? Did you connect tweeters to amplifier? I have a 4 channel amp, how would i got about adding tweeters to it if i intend to do so?
One of my professors in college loved to say: When it comes to electronic circuits, data storage, and relationships. If you put trash in, you’ll get trash out. Usually amplified. I started from the head unit with bass and treble set to neutral. I increased the volume until it started clipping on its outputs. My notes show clipping started at volume 16. I backed down to 15 and moved meter to outputs of dsp and repeated (input gains dsp). Then finally to the amp (gains). The philosophy being no trash passed from one device to the other and amplified. This got me my baseline to then fine tune. Yes, the tweeters are powered by the amp behind a crossover. I hope this makes sense and helps.
I worked from the head unit to the amp. With bass and treble set to neutral and connected to the output of the head unit, I increased the volume until it started clipping then backed it down one. I then moved to the outputs of the DSP and did the same (with the dsp input gain). Then the AMP (gains). That got me my base line settings. Then I tuned from there. Hope this helps.
@@GJDGarage I think I do understand but I was a lil confused cause in the vid you only find your head unit clipping points and the amp clip points(Gain setting). But I was wondering at what point do you open the DSP app and set the input gain for each channel on the input page and find the clipping point for that. Im soon buying the dm-608, I already have a dd1 from my previous set up.
I went with your same build pretty much so we have the same parts almost on my focal iss 165 i get sound when i accelerate. I turned gain down it was faint. But it only does it when dors are closed if i open it stops. I rigged door to think ots closed and it happend again only thing im using different is i have an lc7i please any info helps
Does the lc7i have an input gain? The door chimes and trigger point to turn the amp on may have something to do with it. Remember the door chimes play through speakers. Just a thought. Factory head unit?
GJDGarage the lc7i does have a gain of its own thelts why i turned the amp down one thing i just read it has jumpers that need to be in the summed postion and i had the in a separate. Also it has a jumper for alternator noise i will tey that tomorrow. Let me know if you have any ideas
xxrazorreaperxx So you are getting an alternator whine when you rev the engine with the doors closed and when you open the door the whine goes away. But, when you rig the door to appear closed the whine appears again. Correct? Is audio playing when this is happening or is head unit turned off? On my dsp you can set the remote power sensitivity via the input gains. I had a hiss with head unit off until I adjusted input gain. What I’m trying to figure out is if the door chimes are a factor since it does different things based on door open/closed.
GJDGarage it will do it when the stereo is turned all the way down and up. And my front speakers sound garbled until i turn the up even at low they sound distorted. I pulled that #27 fuse and the door chime sounds normal again but still has that issue when i rev
I'm so happy you showed there was distortion at 20/30 on the HU! I couldn't find this info anywhere and I didn't have the money for a DD1
Really appreciate you documenting all of this. Can't wait to apply some of this to my new 2018!
You should set gains with the engine running. With it off you only get around 12 volts to the system where running the voltage is slightly above 14. Most amps are going to make more clean power at the higher voltage.
Good job great video
Is dsp worth it with aftermarket head unit.
Where did you mount your crossovers for the components
What did you use for the rca the audio control? Or a line out converter?
What volume level did you have the dsp set to when you were setting the Gaines
I’ll hook the laptop up this evening and get back to you.
I think I may have a problem Jason. My 2019 does not have a CD player - only AM/FM radio and MP 3. Any suggestions?
You can download the MP3’s from SMD’s website and throw them on a thumb drive.
@@jasondye4128 Thanks Jason!
Did I miss the part where you showed how to run the power wire?
I explained how I ran it. The battery died on the camera as I was doing it and didn’t notice until I was finished. Once you remove the battery and battery box you’ll have plenty of room to drill through the firewall. I drilled just under the air intake vent. You can gain easy access from inside the car by undoing the glove box and letting it hang. I then ran the wire beside the factory loom under the trim to the back of the car. I used a grommet when going through the firewall and Tessa taped it to make it look factory. Hope this helps! If you need further help let me know.
JT McFarland I’m getting ready to upload a video clarifying this. Thanks for pointing it out.
Shot this video today: th-cam.com/video/KpdaltNyzXY/w-d-xo.html
Hope it helps!
I have a question. I ordered the same pair of front and rear speakers as you and a kenwood amp to power them. Now I've been looking into settings gains and I'm not an expert on it but can I set the volume to 20/30 and then start adjusting gains till V reaches 13.41 as my amp outputs 45rms at 4ohms or is there a distortion from factory radio above 19?
Did you connect tweeters to amplifier? I have a 4 channel amp, how would i got about adding tweeters to it if i intend to do so?
One of my professors in college loved to say: When it comes to electronic circuits, data storage, and relationships. If you put trash in, you’ll get trash out. Usually amplified.
I started from the head unit with bass and treble set to neutral. I increased the volume until it started clipping on its outputs. My notes show clipping started at volume 16. I backed down to 15 and moved meter to outputs of dsp and repeated (input gains dsp). Then finally to the amp (gains). The philosophy being no trash passed from one device to the other and amplified.
This got me my baseline to then fine tune. Yes, the tweeters are powered by the amp behind a crossover. I hope this makes sense and helps.
What about setting the input and output gain on the dm608? Doesn't it add distortion to the system?
I worked from the head unit to the amp. With bass and treble set to neutral and connected to the output of the head unit, I increased the volume until it started clipping then backed it down one. I then moved to the outputs of the DSP and did the same (with the dsp input gain). Then the AMP (gains). That got me my base line settings. Then I tuned from there. Hope this helps.
@@GJDGarage I think I do understand but I was a lil confused cause in the vid you only find your head unit clipping points and the amp clip points(Gain setting). But I was wondering at what point do you open the DSP app and set the input gain for each channel on the input page and find the clipping point for that. Im soon buying the dm-608, I already have a dd1 from my previous set up.
What kind of what are your processor and amps do u have ?
See video 1 in the series.
Are you finished? How does it sound
Rackesh Singh I am. Very satisfied with sound.
GJDGarage nice job. I changed out the speakers in my 18 Mustang but missing base. Wanting to do a sub but I’m afraid to add weight to the car
Do you have a video showing off the final sound?
I went with your same build pretty much so we have the same parts almost on my focal iss 165 i get sound when i accelerate. I turned gain down it was faint. But it only does it when dors are closed if i open it stops. I rigged door to think ots closed and it happend again only thing im using different is i have an lc7i please any info helps
Does the lc7i have an input gain? The door chimes and trigger point to turn the amp on may have something to do with it. Remember the door chimes play through speakers. Just a thought. Factory head unit?
GJDGarage the lc7i does have a gain of its own thelts why i turned the amp down one thing i just read it has jumpers that need to be in the summed postion and i had the in a separate. Also it has a jumper for alternator noise i will tey that tomorrow. Let me know if you have any ideas
GJDGarage oh and the lc7i turns on by sensing speaker signal so it doesn't need a remote in
xxrazorreaperxx So you are getting an alternator whine when you rev the engine with the doors closed and when you open the door the whine goes away. But, when you rig the door to appear closed the whine appears again. Correct? Is audio playing when this is happening or is head unit turned off? On my dsp you can set the remote power sensitivity via the input gains. I had a hiss with head unit off until I adjusted input gain. What I’m trying to figure out is if the door chimes are a factor since it does different things based on door open/closed.
GJDGarage it will do it when the stereo is turned all the way down and up. And my front speakers sound garbled until i turn the up even at low they sound distorted. I pulled that #27 fuse and the door chime sounds normal again but still has that issue when i rev