7 years old & still the best video for setting up & understanding this BOV. Great job guys, informative, clearly communicated, and no longer than it needs to be.
Despite this great informative video from Brett at GFB it's staggering the number of videos on TH-cam with people running the valve far too soft, this video explains very simply how to gain a base setting, Cheers GFB, Top product and customer support!
Got a 9006 for my 2011 Nissan Juke, and it's epic. As simple as it looks in the video and in the Might Car Mods videos, it's actually simpler when using it on the car. I just had to back my spring off slightly to address the audible compressor surge (flutter), but it's only heard under mild driving conditions between 2000 and 3000 RPM. And that's with the Injen CAI probably helping pipe the sound to the outside. :-) I love it!
I scowered the net to try and find a video on an explanation on the springs and blow off valve and urs is most in-depth I found that explains it so well thank you so much are all blow off valves done that way with the Allen wrench tightening ?
Thank you , My sons car was not making sound purr he is in U.K. Asked me to sell his car i had no idea why i am 63 years young one foot in the grave. your video helped me solve the issue.
Received mine for my Evo ten and it would not vent to atmosphere even after adjusting. Upon further inspection the threaded cone basically had to many threads on it hitting the piston stopping it moving. Going to check it later for damage.
I have a forge splitter that I'm 💯 recirculating on my 1.8t. I can set my pre load looser if no air is venting to atmosphere right?? I like the way it feel looser. Because it feels like it let's the turbo spool faster because it's not compressing initially. Then it slams shut and gives me a massive torque shove at 2800 rpm.
Next pay I will be trying ut one of these babies for my Evo. was always againsy it due to no real informative explanations on setting the GFB up. CHeers dude.
How about adjusting it on a Nissan GTR? After my HKS GT1000 engine build I am having flutter and hesitation problems with my GFB Response valves at very small throttle inputs (maintining a slow speed in stop and go traffic) and also while making gentle and constant throttle accelerations in 6th gear under light loads.
How this dude actually made it make sense to me... I swear half these people on here are telling us it like we already know what they are trying to say..
Hi Phil, thanks for contacting us. When installed correctly, none of our valves will cause any damage to your engine. However, in the case that something isn't working as intended - please feel free to contact us at support@gfb.com.au and we'll be sure to assist you best. Thanks.
I'm thinking about buying the T9010 for the Veloster N/i30N, and I have some concerns about setting the spring preload. I understand the the ECU controls BOV operation via the boost control solenoid, so it's not a purely mechanical boost purging system. I am also aware that because of the ECU control of the BOV, the piston should be staying shut at idle. But does spring preload affect operation for the N cars? Is there an optimal setting? Are there any negatives if I leave it at the softest and hardest setting?
The spring pre-load set up on the Veloster N/i30N will be essentially the same as in this video. The only difference will be that the valve will likely always be closed at idle regardless of the pre-load due to the solenoid switching. The rest of the video will still be relevant
Hello!, a month ago i bought a T9659 for my cupra stage 1, i have repro/intercooler and intake, the dv+ was the last mod i installed, but i noticed after installation that on high revs it just started to struggle to get top revs after 5-6k revs, and after that i got an EPC indicator, i tough was a leak of another mod, so i changed to vw valve and it gained all its power again and kicked like a monster, i just wanted to ask, what can be the issue of the dv+ that makes that loost on boost at high revs? Maybe a leak? The spring piston? Or the spring preload? I really love the sound of gfb dv+ Pd1. Boost and power hp on lower revs/launch control are insane but on high revs and high speed it sounds like a "pshhhhhhh" continuously and then start to struggle after 5k revs to get the gear change Srry for the extense comment and bad english! Greetings from mexico!
Hi Dano, Sorry to hear about your car troubles. For technical help please send us an email to support@gfb.com.au. That way you'll get advice specific to your situation
Tanks for the video I’m getting my this week ... is it any downside of having the spring to hard odder then turbo flutter. ... like turn it to Max and turn it back until it stops fluttering an happy with the venting sound?
I have a 2002 wrx automatic. Ive seen alot of people say it doesnt work well on auto bc u cant control boost build with shifting. I still want to get this, 1 bc its well made and 2 it recircts. What is ur opinion on putting it on an automatic?
BK LIFE it won’t make the noise between shifts. Only when you take your foot off the gas (close throttle plate). Waste of money unless you can find one cheap. Or your standard one is crapping out.
I wanna get one of these when buying my stage 1(cobb and intake) for my 2019 wrx..do i need a pro tune for this or can i run it with the stage one tune that the cobb stage 1 comes with?
Our valves will not require any kind of ECU tuning to work. They will work with whatever tuning your car is currently using. Instead, the valve has the provision to adjust the spring pre-load (as shown in this video). Adjusting the pre-load means the valve can be set up to work with the car, rather than the car tuned to work with the valve.
Ok I'm sure you guys get this all the time but is it mechanically safe to run this without a tune? Subaru ECUs are very touchy and from what I'm told, if you run a blowoff valve instead of the stock recirc without a tune youre gonna run rich in between shifts. Is there something different about this valve that isn't present in other atmospheric BOVs? Thanks.
Hi Brad, yes. The spring preload screw adjustment feature is the same across all of our valves and is not exclusive to certain vehicles or transmissions.
I've wound my preload in to have a bit of hectic dose at low rpm or low boost. Is this ok to do so. 15 WRX sti with front mount. Thought it's better than to have it full blocked
Whilst it's not the "recommended" practice, there's no harm in some low RPM/boost flutter. As long as you get a clean "whoosh" when lifting off from high boost, that's when it matters.
So I got a question. I had a bought a gfb bov for my 2019 wrx but now I'm running a 2018 sti.are there an adapter I can buy to screw onto the wrx gfb bov to make it work on thr sti?
Unfortunately the body of the valve is a different design for those two models. The flange type bases for the STI can't be interchanged with the hose type bases that are used on the late model WRX.
Have one in my 2008 Wrx. No matter how tight the spring is it’ll still backfire, has gone into limp mode and has thrown a P10172 code which means it’s running too rich. Do the newer Subaru’s need a pro tune to run this BOV? Keep in mind I am running stage2+ from an accessport if that makes any difference
Max kelson I'm runing GFB Bov and have that problem too even i try to vent it still back fires same fault code. I'm sold it the day after install 🤦🏻♂️(08wrx)
I installed an is38 from a Golf R in my 2019 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack. Can I put the dvx on that turbo? Is there a mounting point for the 2nd half of the dvx? Thanks.
Another quick question is why is it quite hard to turn the adjuster on mine as it looks pretty free to turn in this vid. When warm its impossible to turn unless i use gloves Thanks again
I purchased a gfb second hand , and am concerned it might be internally damaged. Upon adjusting spring rate, the piston appears to be spinning freely the looser the tension is. Is this normal? If not, is it recommended I open the body to see if something possibly came free? Thanks
Christopher Solis contact GFB, they have a lifetime warranty on their BOV’s. their customer support is good and they will get back to you if you email them 😊
Hi Christopher, Sorry for the delayed reply! That sounds quite normal. A looser spring pre-load will mean that the piston is not pushed against the seat while the engine is running. Because the piston is essentially hanging there is very little friction on it and it will spin as you turn the pre-load. When you increase the pre-load to a level at which the piston is held closed it will no spin. If you have any more questions feel free to contact us at support@gfb.com.au
its ok nothing to worry about. if u get flutter while accelerating its bad for turbo. but just a little when u release pedal does nothing bad its just air coming in opposite direction hitting the turbo blades
Just wondering what a 2018 elantra gt idea setting #t9011 would be.... maybe 2 turns in (harder)? This video shows about 3 turns in but different car. The EGT is positioned at bottom and not easily seen to check open/close unless of course 2 people present (1 under car, 1 revving).
Hello, Setting up the pre-load for that vehicle is a little less critical than some others. It does not use a MAF sensor so the minimum spring pre-load will be less sensitive. For optimum throttle response you can increase pre-load until you start to get some flutter on lift-off, then just back it off until the flutter stops. There are more details instructions in the manual that comes with the product.
@@gfbvideos thanks GFB I was about ready to send u an email about what I'm experiencing, but maybe u can guide me quickly and this might help others regarding elantra gt. I was able to setup a cam under car while I rev it. Click my name/view channel to open up my videos (when time prevails 😁, they're short) I made some showing my spring adjustments from stock flat to base, to 3 turns tight. All adjustments i tested at 2k, 3k to 4k rpm on last rev. All adjustments seem to show same results, the piston open, shuts and flutters a little "before" idle. I have it set 1 3/4 turn tight if you can definitely see that vid and tell me if its OK, and that open/closing is safe. I got this from Justin Kelly having his set 1 1/2 to 2 turns tight on his. I haven't done a test drive yet, just wondering if the open/close was normal repeatedly before idle. Plus the gap of piston opening (half way at 4k) Thank you I appreciate it, and welcome to comment on it.
@@Roadsurfer2k11 Hi mate, I've just had a look over those videos. Everything looks fine. These cars are really easy to set up the pre-load on as they have both a solenoid, and no MAF sensor. This basically means the valve will open whenever the ECU tells it to, and the pre-load isn't as critical as the valve won't open at idle. The piston opening and closing again isn't caused by compressor surge or "flutter" as it's often called. This is just because the solenoid is still triggering the valve to open, but the pressure isn't quite high enough to fully overcome spring pre-load. You can play around with when it does this by either increasing pre-load so it's less likely to re-open, or decrease it so it's less likely to close early. More pre-load does result in better throttle response right up until the point that you start to experience compressor surge, so if you increase it to the point that you're hearing surge I'd suggest winding it back slightly. If you need any more help feel free to contact us at support@gfb.com.au
Unfortunately on my Focus ST, i am not able to easily see the piston movement and/ or adjust the spring preload due to the location of the BPV... I did do some quick testing on the softest spring preload and then the hardest. From what i remember, neither gave me issues when idling but on the softest preload, it just vented a little too easily, so i just set it to the hardest spring preload, have been using it for more than 2 years. My question is, would it cause any issues (in the short and long term) setting the spring preload at the hardest?
Hi James, As a general "rule of thumb" piece of advice, we suggest to set the spring pre-load as hard as you can without causing compressor surge. This will give you optimum throttle response. As long as you're not experiencing compressor surge, there is no issue with having the spring pre-load set to it's hardest setting. If you ARE experiencing compressor surge I'd suggest backing off the pre-load a little. Compressor surge can potentially increase wear on the turbo over time
@@gfbvideos btw, I'm using the DVX if that makes any difference. Btw, I'm not very experienced in this... May i ask what is a compressor surge and how do i detect it? Thanks for the quick reply
@@liquidator13 No problems! Compressor surge is most often indicated by a fluttering noise when you lift off the throttle. There is a very long and technical explanation, but for our purposes it can be understood as what happens when the valve closes too soon and doesn't allow enough air out. The excess pressure then escapes back through the turbo which creates the fluttering sound
@@gfbvideos I've watched a few videos about it after u mentioned it and i think i understand what u mean... Good info to know and also good to say that i do not experience the turbo flutter even though it does sound very nice in some of the videos I've seen... Thx again for the quick response
Yes of course! the valve can be set anywhere from 100% bypass to 100% atmospheric and anything in between depending on your sound preference or ECU's preference
Confused as tightening to the right is technically making it “Softer” and loosening to the left it is making it “harder”? I have it almost turned all the way to the right as I can go and my car still stalls. Stock 2015 + WRX. Would love some help on this. In the video he turns to the right and says it would make it so the piston doesn’t open on low rpm blips but their website says to increase pre-load which would be turning it to the left.
Hi Jairo, There shouldn't be any correlation between the pre-load being too soft and knock. Knock tends to occur under high load and when you're under high load the valve will be closed so the spring pre-load is not having any impact.
Hi, when venting to atmosphere, adjusting the spring preload is an essential adjustment to avoid any misfiring or stalling. As mentioned in the video, adjusting the spring preload screw is responsible for how easily the valve is able to vent after coming off throttle.
Hey mate at about @1:50 you said when the piston moves 3mm it all goes to recirculation. Does that mean the recirc port is machined at a different height (lower) to the atmo port (higher) in the valve body? Thanks dude :)
Yep, that's exactly right! This feature is mostly for when the valve is closing, to shut the atmo off just a little before the recirc which makes the spring adjustment easier than if they were both at the same height.
@@brettturner7057 thanks mate! I swapped my recirc and Atmo ports around to fit with my intercooler piping so I’ll have to address this.. is the body indexable at all?
Hi Raven, thanks for contacting us! The venting bias adjustment is merely the preference regarding how much air you would like to be recirculated versus the amount of air that is vented to atmosphere. If the spring preload screw is tightened too hard, you may experience some fluttering when coming off throttle. If you are experiencing some fluttering after tightening the spring preload screw - you would simply need to loosen this screw.
@@gfbvideosif the spring preload screw is too tight and doesn't allow the piston in the bov to vent air out, will the air just recirculate as needed?
@@doubleube5615 Hi, if the spring preload screw is too tight - it would not allow any air to either vent to atmosphere or recirculate, which is what causes a “fluttering” after coming off throttle. By design in our valves, the recirc outlet and trumpet are ever so slightly offset to each other so that at a setup where some air is recirculated to the intake, the valve will vent and recirculate some air back into the intake before venting the rest to atmosphere.
Hi Robert, It's very unlikely for the spring to have gone soft or "worn out". There could be a lot of different things going on there. I suggest contacting our engineers at support@gfb.com.au
Hi, the spring preload adjustment is a critical adjustment with a MAF sensor, but not if you have only a MAP sensor. You would still want it to be closed at idle though so you're not sucking in any un-filtered air. In cases where you do have a MAF sensor that requires a particular amount of air to be recirculated - you would just need to adjust the venting bias accordingly.
When I adjust mine (T9005) while the engine is on (R35) the piston spins too. If the engine is off it doesn't like in this video. Its quite tricky to do with an electric throttle and I think I have it about right but anyone else with an R35 using one of these? If so where abouts is your preload screw set?
Hi, It's pretty normal to see the piston spin when the engine is on and you rotate the pre-load adjustment screw. This just means the idle vacuum is lifting the piston off the seat and you will probably need to increase pre-load more. When the engine is off there will be no vacuum pulling the piston open, so it will be pushed against the seat and not spin.
Hi Tyler, if the spring preload screw was too tight, you may experience some compressor surge when coming off throttle. We do also include a quick guide in our instructions detailing how the spring preload is to be configured for your vehicle. Hope this helps.
Hey there, the spring that is supplied standard on the Mach 2 is softer than what we supply on the atmosphere-venting valves like the Respons, which is deliberate because on a fully recirculated valve it is not as critical that the piston completely closes before the engine reaches idle, so it's possible what you're seeing is normal. If you're concerned about it, I'd suggest contacting us via our website www.gfb.com.au tech support and we can get some more info from you and advise further.
Hi Denis, The venting bias adjustment mainly comes down to personal preference, and how loud you want the valve to be. It is also useful on vehicles that have issues with atmospheric venting. If you're having problems with the car backfiring or error codes, you can just add some more re-circulation. If you have any specific issues feel free to send an email to our Tech Support team at support@gfb.com.au
i just got the tms full recirculation bpv for my 2015 sti.. will having it to tight cause problems to the sensors? because for some reason all my engine lights came on
Having the spring pre-load too tight will cause compressor surge (or flutter) this can cause error codes to appear on some cars. If your valve is surging when you come off the throttle then I would recommend reducing the spring pre-load. This will NOT reduce the amount of boost pressure that the valve holds. Email me at support@gfb.com.au if you need any more information!
If anyone can help i brought a 2000 wrx bugeye and it came with gfb blow off but the idle sits at 500 low and seems to be ok doesn't go lower or higher and doesn't cut out seems to like it there ive tryed everything to get the idle up new spark plugs cleaned throttle body cant see any vac leaks and cleaned mass sensor did a re set and just goes back to 500 even tryed to adjust the idle screw that worked for a day then went back to 500 again. Could it be the blow off its duel port but full atmosphere and not adjustable?
Hi limelight NY, unfortunately our Mach 2, Hybrid, Respons and Deceptor Pro II valves are not direct fit valves that would be compatible with your vehicle. Since your vehicle utilises an electronically controlled diverter valve over a pneumatic bypass valve, you would be able to utilise one of our DV+ or VTA product ranges. To find the right part for your vehicle, please be sure to head to our website and use our Vehicle Fitment Search to help find what part would be compatible with your specific vehicle. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us at support@gfb.com.au
Steve Tsa yes the spring load adjust it +side more the hard it will be for the piston to open meaning the more boost pressure it need to append / more rpms
Hi Utsesemi, A re-circulating valve has a little wider range of possible spring pre-load. Because the air is re-circulated and not vented to the atmosphere, the valve does not have to be held closed at idle. This means the spring can be set softer than if it was an atmospheric venting valve, and it wont negatively affect the car. You will still gain throttle response when feathering the throttle, or on manual gearchanges if the spring is stiffened. If you're going for maximum throttle response, setting the spring pre-load just before you start to get compressor surge would be my suggestion. You can find more detailed information in the instruction manual, that comes with the product, or on our website.
I understand why you don't want the spring to be too soft but what would happen if the spring is set too tight? If You tightened the spring another 2 or 3 turns I understand you would have to rev harder for it to vent but would that cause any damage to anything? If it is so tight that it never opens then that would just make it full recirc, right? Edit: Is having it too tight how you get compressor surge?
When the valve is set to 100% re-circulation, the venting bias is less critical. It can still of course be set up for optimum throttle response, and to avoid surge.
@@tonyb3350 With a BOV on full recirc, it should have zero effect on the idle regardless of the spring pre-load. This is because all of the air is kept in the system, but additionally, the T9111 is typically used on the Hyundai Gamma 1.6, which has no MAF sensor. This means even if the valve were venting to atmosphere, or the piston were open or closed at idle, the ECU on these cars doesn't care and the fuelling is completely unaffected. There's certainly no harm experimenting with the spring pre-load, but if you're continuing to have issues I'd suggest contacting us via our tech support channel on the website so we can go into more detail.
@@gfbvideos last night I switched to stock valve and my idle is perfect. After I inspected the GFB valve, and it had just the slightest bit of rattle to it. It was the flange the breather hose connects to. It wasn't real loose, but I got like a 1/8 turn out of it to snug it down. Maybe it was loose enough to allow a leak? I'd like to switch back at some point and see if that was the issue. Acceleration definitely feels better with gfb valve. Im guessing it holds boost better... But, ultimately I need the car to idle right. Can some teflon tape or maybe some blue loctite be used on that flange to ensure it doesn't back out any?
@@tonyb3350 I suggest contacting our engineers through the support channel on our website gfb.com.au/contact-us/tech-support/ There must be something else going on here as these cars don't have a MAF sensor so it's not really possible for the valve to affect the AFR's and cause it to idle rough. Our engineers would be best able to help get to the bottom of it.
No tune needed, the key is to set the valve up to the car, rather than tune the car to suit the valve. By setting up the spring correctly, drivability issues such as backfiring and stalling are avoided.
Flutter means that the BOV isn't venting to atmosphere like it should. You can block off either the port where it's supposed to be vented, or before it even gets to the bov by replacing the gasket with a solid gasket (no hole). Some people use a coke can cut to shape and it works but probably not the best. Alternatively you can tighten the spring as far in as it'll go and that will make it harder for the valve to open, which works perfectly if you're not running high amounts of boost.
@@jordan_.zx10r Surging isn't the best thing to do, but as long as you can keep the valve closed you should create backpressure towards the turbine and create surging.
Hi Maurice, No you don't need a tune. The purpose of the spring pre-load and venting bias adjustment are so that you can set the valve up to suit the car, rather than tuning the car to suit the valve
If there’s water on the outside of the valve, that’s okay. When you check inside the trumpet, if you notice any water pooling just give it a wipe with a towel. You won’t need to be more thorough than that, as the water will be blown out when you drive the car.
@@gfbvideos thank you for the quick great response, I upgraded from turbosmart and I felt much better response. Only had it about 2 weeks, I'm trying to adjust the sound so I don't sound like a boy racer all the time haha. I'll maybe try 50/50 vent tomorrow and see how it goes.
@@gfbvideos yeah the trumpet can become full of water after it rains or after I wash the car. So would you say don't worry and leave it as I don't want to be checking everytime I drive it. I thought the piston inside opens slightly when starting car and I guess it can cause damage if water goes inside ? As you know I'm worried and probably overthinking lol. I'm from UK by the way
@@irfaan7868 It sounds like you've got a fair few technical questions about this product. For this technical information please contact us at support@gfb.com.au
on my Ford focus st mk3 the spring adjustment does not do much and on throttle stationary the valve opens fully and closes like 2 Ish seconds after venting but it closes Very fast and smooth but not smooth and slow
On your car the opening and closing of the BOV is largely dictated electronically by the ECU rather than just the spring pre-load alone as it is in this video. The spring adjustment on your car determines what the valve does in between the time that the ECU tells it too open and close, which explains why you will notice less of a difference than is shown here, and also why it snaps shut after about 2 seconds - this is the ECU turning off the solenoid.
@@gfbvideos Ok , thank you. If i put more pre-load on the bolt(+) will that make it so it will blow-off less fast at low rpm too ? it's a littly too sensitive at low rpms.. unless the only fix is direct vacuum?
@@MrTFlx Yes, increasing the spring pre-load will make it blow off less at low RPM when there isn't ac much boost to help push the piston open when the ECU applies vacuum to the top of the valve. There's absolutely no harm in experimenting with the spring pre-load, so I'd say give it a try. If you apply direct vacuum from the DV+ to the intake manifold, it is likely the ECU will log a fault code, and you would probably need to cut the spring shorter. This is because the vacuum pump the ECU uses to actuate the diverter valve pulls a MUCH stronger vacuum than the engine, and the spring we supply is designed for the pump vacuum.
Hi Evan, The trumpet and re-circulation fittings do have a specific side. This is because the trumpet port is actually positioned a few millimeters higher than the re-circulation port. The re-circulation port will open first, and at low piston lift which helps to prevent stalling and other issues.
I keep getting told I need to run a protune, or rather, RUN a protune if I am trying to run a bov open to atmosphere on my 2019 wrx.i just bought a gfb bov hybrid and I am yet to install it until my stage 1+ kit comes in.the vendor i bought it from recommends me running it at 100%recirculating without a protune to avoid issues,And said once I open to atmospheric, That it might need a custom tune...please set the record straight for me again because I need that swopshhh sound in my life...😅safely.
Hello, Yeah I can definitely help clear that one up for you. Being that it is quite particular to your vehicle, I'd like to answer to your specific situation rather than give general advice. If you could contact us at support@gfb.com.au, I'll be able to help you out there
If the spring is set too soft it can cause boost leakage, if it's correctly set you wont lose any boost but you can't increase the amount of boost at the peak with it. To increase boost you need a boost controller but that's something completely different and you can blow up your engine if you dont know what you're doing using it.
We can definitely help you, but I'd suggest you get in touch with our engineers via our website "contact us". They'll need some more information about what you mean by "sound cruddy", so if you can get a short video and attach it to your enquiry that will help you get an answer faster.
Hi, for that video we have removed the trumpet just to make it easier to see the piston when adjusting spring pre-load. it’s worth noting that with the standard trumpet installed - it will only make a “whooshing” sound when coming off throttle. You will only get a whistling effect with the optional “whistling” trumpet. Thanks
For technical help please contact support@gfb.com.au Our engineers will be able to help. Please include as much information as you can, and pictures/video if relevant
Hello, There will be a different method of adjusting venting bias depending on what valve you have installed. If you want more info you can check out the instructions that came with the valve, or they are also available on the website. If you want some more info specific to your application feel free to email us at support@gfb.com.au
Honestly depends on your car, short answer no, but some cars that were designed for the air to recirculate back into your intake this might not work so well unless you have a proper tune
Michael wind that screw he literally just showed you in more because that valve he showed is meant to be closed before idle, did you even watch the video???
Yeah that is correct. Once you start to get compressor surge, you aren't going to be able to retain any more boost pressure in the intercooler by continuing to increase pre-load. The pressure will instead escape out through the turbo instead of the valve. so this is the most you can improve the responsiveness.
See i was told by some random dude.. (i know right) It should be set as HARD as Possible but not so hard it dont vent and causes compressor surge.. so soft as possible without leaking on idle or Hard as possible without surging turbine : |
@@gfbvideos Focus ST… also, not to hijack your post here but I installed the DV+ on my ‘15 ST w/ a new turbo last week and I am getting a whistling noise. Sounds like a flute player is under my hood (not the flutter). I’ve pulled the DV off and re-installed, played with the spring settings and it won’t go away. Any ideas? I got it new from VividRacing. Thanks! th-cam.com/users/shortsnP_n9g9Mpns?feature=share
Hello, Sorry to hear you were having problems with your valve. We do have lifetime warranty on all our parts. If you can get in touch with us at support@gfb.com.au we'll be happy to help you out.
@@isaacreyes8168 Hi Isaac, I'd be happy to help you out. We have lifetime warranty on our parts so if you can send an email to us at support@gfb.com.au I'll see what I can do. The more information you can give us the better we can solve the issue so feel free to leave as much detail as possible about the problems!
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7 years old & still the best video for setting up & understanding this BOV. Great job guys, informative, clearly communicated, and no longer than it needs to be.
Despite this great informative video from Brett at GFB it's staggering the number of videos on TH-cam with people running the valve far too soft, this video explains very simply how to gain a base setting, Cheers GFB, Top product and customer support!
Helpful understanding of the bov for a turbo noob like me, thx.
Got a 9006 for my 2011 Nissan Juke, and it's epic. As simple as it looks in the video and in the Might Car Mods videos, it's actually simpler when using it on the car. I just had to back my spring off slightly to address the audible compressor surge (flutter), but it's only heard under mild driving conditions between 2000 and 3000 RPM. And that's with the Injen CAI probably helping pipe the sound to the outside. :-) I love it!
I scowered the net to try and find a video on an explanation on the springs and blow off valve and urs is most in-depth I found that explains it so well thank you so much are all blow off valves done that way with the Allen wrench tightening ?
Thank you , My sons car was not making sound purr he is in U.K. Asked me to sell his car i had no idea why i am 63 years young one foot in the grave. your video helped me solve the issue.
I have just ordered one for my 2016 fxt so hope will whistle as good as the old gc8s do
excellent video! Thank you!
Received mine for my Evo ten and it would not vent to atmosphere even after adjusting. Upon further inspection the threaded cone basically had to many threads on it hitting the piston stopping it moving. Going to check it later for damage.
I have a forge splitter that I'm 💯 recirculating on my 1.8t. I can set my pre load looser if no air is venting to atmosphere right?? I like the way it feel looser. Because it feels like it let's the turbo spool faster because it's not compressing initially. Then it slams shut and gives me a massive torque shove at 2800 rpm.
Next pay I will be trying ut one of these babies for my Evo. was always againsy it due to no real informative explanations on setting the GFB up. CHeers dude.
Thank you for this ❤️
new to turbo but I installed the turbosmart smart Port Blow Off Valve for 15 mustang what exactly do I turn to adjust the black knob or the nipple?
How about adjusting it on a Nissan GTR? After my HKS GT1000 engine build I am having flutter and hesitation problems with my GFB Response valves at very small throttle inputs (maintining a slow speed in stop and go traffic) and also while making gentle and constant throttle accelerations in 6th gear under light loads.
do gfb do a fully recirculation valve for a 2005 seat leon cupra 1.8 turbo ?
How this dude actually made it make sense to me... I swear half these people on here are telling us it like we already know what they are trying to say..
He’s a good teacher. 100% agree he made this all very easy to understand
Thank you bro. All these the other people just slap it on, say it's soft then end the video without explaining any of this lol
I have a 02 wrx and really want a BOV can I install it myself without it needing a tune ?
Thanks for this, I just got a wrx with one pre installed
How's the idle is it the adjustable one?
How are these with a 2007 SG5 Forester CrossSports auto?
Do they work or do more damage to the engine?
Hi Phil, thanks for contacting us. When installed correctly, none of our valves will cause any damage to your engine. However, in the case that something isn't working as intended - please feel free to contact us at support@gfb.com.au and we'll be sure to assist you best. Thanks.
I'm thinking about buying the T9010 for the Veloster N/i30N, and I have some concerns about setting the spring preload. I understand the the ECU controls BOV operation via the boost control solenoid, so it's not a purely mechanical boost purging system. I am also aware that because of the ECU control of the BOV, the piston should be staying shut at idle. But does spring preload affect operation for the N cars? Is there an optimal setting? Are there any negatives if I leave it at the softest and hardest setting?
The spring pre-load set up on the Veloster N/i30N will be essentially the same as in this video. The only difference will be that the valve will likely always be closed at idle regardless of the pre-load due to the solenoid switching. The rest of the video will still be relevant
Hello!, a month ago i bought a T9659 for my cupra stage 1, i have repro/intercooler and intake, the dv+ was the last mod i installed, but i noticed after installation that on high revs it just started to struggle to get top revs after 5-6k revs, and after that i got an EPC indicator, i tough was a leak of another mod, so i changed to vw valve and it gained all its power again and kicked like a monster, i just wanted to ask, what can be the issue of the dv+ that makes that loost on boost at high revs? Maybe a leak? The spring piston? Or the spring preload? I really love the sound of gfb dv+
Pd1. Boost and power hp on lower revs/launch control are insane but on high revs and high speed it sounds like a "pshhhhhhh" continuously and then start to struggle after 5k revs to get the gear change
Srry for the extense comment and bad english!
Greetings from mexico!
Hi Dano,
Sorry to hear about your car troubles.
For technical help please send us an email to support@gfb.com.au. That way you'll get advice specific to your situation
Tanks for the video I’m getting my this week ... is it any downside of having the spring to hard odder then turbo flutter. ... like turn it to Max and turn it back until it stops fluttering an happy with the venting sound?
There are no issues with setting up the spring like that. Having it set just before you start to get flutter will give you the best throttle response
Thanking you
I have a 2002 wrx automatic. Ive seen alot of people say it doesnt work well on auto bc u cant control boost build with shifting. I still want to get this, 1 bc its well made and 2 it recircts. What is ur opinion on putting it on an automatic?
BK LIFE it won’t make the noise between shifts. Only when you take your foot off the gas (close throttle plate). Waste of money unless you can find one cheap. Or your standard one is crapping out.
Do we need a tune????
I wanna get one of these when buying my stage 1(cobb and intake) for my 2019 wrx..do i need a pro tune for this or can i run it with the stage one tune that the cobb stage 1 comes with?
Our valves will not require any kind of ECU tuning to work. They will work with whatever tuning your car is currently using. Instead, the valve has the provision to adjust the spring pre-load (as shown in this video). Adjusting the pre-load means the valve can be set up to work with the car, rather than the car tuned to work with the valve.
Ok I'm sure you guys get this all the time but is it mechanically safe to run this without a tune? Subaru ECUs are very touchy and from what I'm told, if you run a blowoff valve instead of the stock recirc without a tune youre gonna run rich in between shifts. Is there something different about this valve that isn't present in other atmospheric BOVs? Thanks.
Do I need to run a gasket with this bov on my 06 STI or does the small rubber gasket on the bov work?
Dale Duro don’t use it it says on the innstructions
008 dump valve forge buy aldım.2001 audi 1.8t 200hp models with software tool instead of my green spring yellow hard spring taxane Is there any harm
would this work the same way for a wrx turbo engine but with an automatic 4 speed box?
Hi Brad, yes. The spring preload screw adjustment feature is the same across all of our valves and is not exclusive to certain vehicles or transmissions.
I've wound my preload in to have a bit of hectic dose at low rpm or low boost. Is this ok to do so. 15 WRX sti with front mount. Thought it's better than to have it full blocked
Whilst it's not the "recommended" practice, there's no harm in some low RPM/boost flutter. As long as you get a clean "whoosh" when lifting off from high boost, that's when it matters.
So I got a question. I had a bought a gfb bov for my 2019 wrx but now I'm running a 2018 sti.are there an adapter I can buy to screw onto the wrx gfb bov to make it work on thr sti?
Unfortunately the body of the valve is a different design for those two models. The flange type bases for the STI can't be interchanged with the hose type bases that are used on the late model WRX.
Have one in my 2008 Wrx. No matter how tight the spring is it’ll still backfire, has gone into limp mode and has thrown a P10172 code which means it’s running too rich. Do the newer Subaru’s need a pro tune to run this BOV? Keep in mind I am running stage2+ from an accessport if that makes any difference
Max kelson I'm runing GFB Bov and have that problem too even i try to vent it still back fires same fault code. I'm sold it the day after install 🤦🏻♂️(08wrx)
Im stock and my wrx backfires aswell n
You can’t tune a bov correctly on a MAF car without running speed density. Your AP tune doesn’t mean anything in this situation
@@Tony-tk4ht are you using the dual port bov? Spring may be too soft
I installed an is38 from a Golf R in my 2019 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack. Can I put the dvx on that turbo? Is there a mounting point for the 2nd half of the dvx? Thanks.
Hi Mike,
I've sent you a reply to your facebook message mate!
Hi GFB, I'm running a dvx+ on a mk3 focus st, I get loads of flutter when coming off the throttle, is this normal and is it harmfull?
Mark Northern should be good. Loosen spring tension
Another quick question is why is it quite hard to turn the adjuster on mine as it looks pretty free to turn in this vid.
When warm its impossible to turn unless i use gloves
Thanks again
We'd be happy to look into your question. We might need to get some more information so please contact us with your questions at support@gfb.com.au
I purchased a gfb second hand , and am concerned it might be internally damaged. Upon adjusting spring rate, the piston appears to be spinning freely the looser the tension is. Is this normal? If not, is it recommended I open the body to see if something possibly came free? Thanks
Christopher Solis contact GFB, they have a lifetime warranty on their BOV’s. their customer support is good and they will get back to you if you email them 😊
Hi Christopher,
Sorry for the delayed reply!
That sounds quite normal. A looser spring pre-load will mean that the piston is not pushed against the seat while the engine is running. Because the piston is essentially hanging there is very little friction on it and it will spin as you turn the pre-load. When you increase the pre-load to a level at which the piston is held closed it will no spin.
If you have any more questions feel free to contact us at support@gfb.com.au
Very good
Hi, a little bit of turbo flutter at low revs and boost is OK or can damage the turbocharger?
its ok nothing to worry about. if u get flutter while accelerating its bad for turbo. but just a little when u release pedal does nothing bad its just air coming in opposite direction hitting the turbo blades
Just wondering what a 2018 elantra gt idea setting #t9011 would be.... maybe 2 turns in (harder)? This video shows about 3 turns in but different car. The EGT is positioned at bottom and not easily seen to check open/close unless of course 2 people present (1 under car, 1 revving).
Hello,
Setting up the pre-load for that vehicle is a little less critical than some others. It does not use a MAF sensor so the minimum spring pre-load will be less sensitive. For optimum throttle response you can increase pre-load until you start to get some flutter on lift-off, then just back it off until the flutter stops. There are more details instructions in the manual that comes with the product.
@@gfbvideos thanks GFB I was about ready to send u an email about what I'm experiencing, but maybe u can guide me quickly and this might help others regarding elantra gt. I was able to setup a cam under car while I rev it. Click my name/view channel to open up my videos (when time prevails 😁, they're short) I made some showing my spring adjustments from stock flat to base, to 3 turns tight. All adjustments i tested at 2k, 3k to 4k rpm on last rev. All adjustments seem to show same results, the piston open, shuts and flutters a little "before" idle.
I have it set 1 3/4 turn tight if you can definitely see that vid and tell me if its OK, and that open/closing is safe. I got this from Justin Kelly having his set 1 1/2 to 2 turns tight on his. I haven't done a test drive yet, just wondering if the open/close was normal repeatedly before idle. Plus the gap of piston opening (half way at 4k)
Thank you I appreciate it, and welcome to comment on it.
@@Roadsurfer2k11 Hi mate,
I've just had a look over those videos. Everything looks fine. These cars are really easy to set up the pre-load on as they have both a solenoid, and no MAF sensor. This basically means the valve will open whenever the ECU tells it to, and the pre-load isn't as critical as the valve won't open at idle. The piston opening and closing again isn't caused by compressor surge or "flutter" as it's often called. This is just because the solenoid is still triggering the valve to open, but the pressure isn't quite high enough to fully overcome spring pre-load. You can play around with when it does this by either increasing pre-load so it's less likely to re-open, or decrease it so it's less likely to close early.
More pre-load does result in better throttle response right up until the point that you start to experience compressor surge, so if you increase it to the point that you're hearing surge I'd suggest winding it back slightly.
If you need any more help feel free to contact us at support@gfb.com.au
Unfortunately on my Focus ST, i am not able to easily see the piston movement and/ or adjust the spring preload due to the location of the BPV... I did do some quick testing on the softest spring preload and then the hardest. From what i remember, neither gave me issues when idling but on the softest preload, it just vented a little too easily, so i just set it to the hardest spring preload, have been using it for more than 2 years.
My question is, would it cause any issues (in the short and long term) setting the spring preload at the hardest?
Hi James,
As a general "rule of thumb" piece of advice, we suggest to set the spring pre-load as hard as you can without causing compressor surge. This will give you optimum throttle response.
As long as you're not experiencing compressor surge, there is no issue with having the spring pre-load set to it's hardest setting. If you ARE experiencing compressor surge I'd suggest backing off the pre-load a little. Compressor surge can potentially increase wear on the turbo over time
@@gfbvideos btw, I'm using the DVX if that makes any difference.
Btw, I'm not very experienced in this... May i ask what is a compressor surge and how do i detect it? Thanks for the quick reply
@@liquidator13 No problems!
Compressor surge is most often indicated by a fluttering noise when you lift off the throttle. There is a very long and technical explanation, but for our purposes it can be understood as what happens when the valve closes too soon and doesn't allow enough air out. The excess pressure then escapes back through the turbo which creates the fluttering sound
@@gfbvideos I've watched a few videos about it after u mentioned it and i think i understand what u mean... Good info to know and also good to say that i do not experience the turbo flutter even though it does sound very nice in some of the videos I've seen... Thx again for the quick response
@@liquidator13 Okay great! No problems at all. If you do have any further questions, feel free to contact us at support@gfb.com.au
so you said you can switch it to atmosphere venting. does that mean you can also switch it to bypass valve? or is that not a thing? (I'm a boob sorry)
Yes of course! the valve can be set anywhere from 100% bypass to 100% atmospheric and anything in between depending on your sound preference or ECU's preference
Confused as tightening to the right is technically making it “Softer” and loosening to the left it is making it “harder”? I have it almost turned all the way to the right as I can go and my car still stalls. Stock 2015 + WRX. Would love some help on this.
In the video he turns to the right and says it would make it so the piston doesn’t open on low rpm blips but their website says to increase pre-load which would be turning it to the left.
Might have to mess with the atmosphere ratio
Yeah I’ve raised and lowered the ratios. I just said screw it and put the stock BPV on
@@OvernightCrew If I tightened the screw too far i'd get turbo flutter. Never had stalling but I have an 04 with ej205.
Can having the preload too soft result in some fine/feedback nock?
Hi Jairo,
There shouldn't be any correlation between the pre-load being too soft and knock. Knock tends to occur under high load and when you're under high load the valve will be closed so the spring pre-load is not having any impact.
are non-full recirculating blow off valves illegal in australia?
datstocklyfe I don't think so in NSW other states maybe
Does this apply to a atmospheric bov also?
Dangerous Fandango only applies to vent to atmosphere bovs
I have two of the hybrid bov’s in my Stinger
Hi, do you recommend it for saab 9-5 2.3t?
Hi, when venting to atmosphere, adjusting the spring preload is an essential adjustment to avoid any misfiring or stalling. As mentioned in the video, adjusting the spring preload screw is responsible for how easily the valve is able to vent after coming off throttle.
In this video is the vent closed on this? Just installing mine and thought you go 50/50?
Hi Jaymes,
The valve in this video is set at 50/50. You will need the atmospheric port to be open in order to see the piston.
can i put the bov on stock turbo and do i have to tune it after?
no would benefit but don't have to
Hey mate at about @1:50 you said when the piston moves 3mm it all goes to recirculation. Does that mean the recirc port is machined at a different height (lower) to the atmo port (higher) in the valve body? Thanks dude :)
Yep, that's exactly right! This feature is mostly for when the valve is closing, to shut the atmo off just a little before the recirc which makes the spring adjustment easier than if they were both at the same height.
@@brettturner7057 thanks mate! I swapped my recirc and Atmo ports around to fit with my intercooler piping so I’ll have to address this.. is the body indexable at all?
Okay just pulled mine off and had a play it is six position indexable!!!! That is awesome it should be made an official feature
@@martinburnett3852 Good stuff Martin!
Does the T9014 fit the UK Hyundai i30 N-Line 1.5 t-gdi Fastback?
Hi John,
I believe the 1.5 t-gdi uses a different valve. I've just replied to your email with more information to suit your specific circumstances
Best by fare took me 10 mins to install and set up
Thanks but what about the recirc amount? And what happens when it's tightened too far?
Hi Raven, thanks for contacting us! The venting bias adjustment is merely the preference regarding how much air you would like to be recirculated versus the amount of air that is vented to atmosphere.
If the spring preload screw is tightened too hard, you may experience some fluttering when coming off throttle. If you are experiencing some fluttering after tightening the spring preload screw - you would simply need to loosen this screw.
@@gfbvideosif the spring preload screw is too tight and doesn't allow the piston in the bov to vent air out, will the air just recirculate as needed?
@@doubleube5615 Hi, if the spring preload screw is too tight - it would not allow any air to either vent to atmosphere or recirculate, which is what causes a “fluttering” after coming off throttle. By design in our valves, the recirc outlet and trumpet are ever so slightly offset to each other so that at a setup where some air is recirculated to the intake, the valve will vent and recirculate some air back into the intake before venting the rest to atmosphere.
I tighten the spring almost completely and the rpms still drop a little when I Rev. Is that normal? Or do I need a new spring?
Hi Robert,
It's very unlikely for the spring to have gone soft or "worn out".
There could be a lot of different things going on there. I suggest contacting our engineers at support@gfb.com.au
IS THIS work on automatic forester xt 06 too?
WENICO GA would work for any turbo car, doesn’t have to be manual
It's strange though, I own the exact same one on my Legact tt, it releases really quick.
Is this just for mass air flow sensor? Becorse mine is Map sensor and just does not seem to care at all
Hi, the spring preload adjustment is a critical adjustment with a MAF sensor, but not if you have only a MAP sensor. You would still want it to be closed at idle though so you're not sucking in any un-filtered air. In cases where you do have a MAF sensor that requires a particular amount of air to be recirculated - you would just need to adjust the venting bias accordingly.
When I adjust mine (T9005) while the engine is on (R35) the piston spins too. If the engine is off it doesn't like in this video. Its quite tricky to do with an electric throttle and I think I have it about right but anyone else with an R35 using one of these? If so where abouts is your preload screw set?
Hi,
It's pretty normal to see the piston spin when the engine is on and you rotate the pre-load adjustment screw. This just means the idle vacuum is lifting the piston off the seat and you will probably need to increase pre-load more. When the engine is off there will be no vacuum pulling the piston open, so it will be pushed against the seat and not spin.
@GFB hey guys, just curious on the characteristics if the preload spring is too tight? What happens? Thanks.
Hi Tyler, if the spring preload screw was too tight, you may experience some compressor surge when coming off throttle. We do also include a quick guide in our instructions detailing how the spring preload is to be configured for your vehicle. Hope this helps.
@GFB Thanks for the quick response! I have mine set up pretty good, i was just curious what would happen.
I've had my GFB mach 2 for 3 years on my Ralliart Lancer Turbo and it's gone super soft now.
Hey there, the spring that is supplied standard on the Mach 2 is softer than what we supply on the atmosphere-venting valves like the Respons, which is deliberate because on a fully recirculated valve it is not as critical that the piston completely closes before the engine reaches idle, so it's possible what you're seeing is normal. If you're concerned about it, I'd suggest contacting us via our website www.gfb.com.au tech support and we can get some more info from you and advise further.
how much should I adjust the atmospheric opening?
Hi Denis,
The venting bias adjustment mainly comes down to personal preference, and how loud you want the valve to be. It is also useful on vehicles that have issues with atmospheric venting. If you're having problems with the car backfiring or error codes, you can just add some more re-circulation.
If you have any specific issues feel free to send an email to our Tech Support team at support@gfb.com.au
i just got the tms full recirculation bpv for my 2015 sti.. will having it to tight cause problems to the sensors? because for some reason all my engine lights came on
Having the spring pre-load too tight will cause compressor surge (or flutter) this can cause error codes to appear on some cars. If your valve is surging when you come off the throttle then I would recommend reducing the spring pre-load. This will NOT reduce the amount of boost pressure that the valve holds. Email me at support@gfb.com.au if you need any more information!
If anyone can help i brought a 2000 wrx bugeye and it came with gfb blow off but the idle sits at 500 low and seems to be ok doesn't go lower or higher and doesn't cut out seems to like it there ive tryed everything to get the idle up new spark plugs cleaned throttle body cant see any vac leaks and cleaned mass sensor did a re set and just goes back to 500 even tryed to adjust the idle screw that worked for a day then went back to 500 again. Could it be the blow off its duel port but full atmosphere and not adjustable?
Hi! Please contact our support team at support@gfb.com.au! We'd be more than happy to help.
Hi are you able to putthis on a audi a4?
Hi limelight NY, unfortunately our Mach 2, Hybrid, Respons and Deceptor Pro II valves are not direct fit valves that would be compatible with your vehicle. Since your vehicle utilises an electronically controlled diverter valve over a pneumatic bypass valve, you would be able to utilise one of our DV+ or VTA product ranges. To find the right part for your vehicle, please be sure to head to our website and use our Vehicle Fitment Search to help find what part would be compatible with your specific vehicle. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact us at support@gfb.com.au
Can I asjust the spring so that the blow off valve makes less sound? Or makies sound only in high rpms?
Steve Tsa yes the spring load adjust it +side more the hard it will be for the piston to open meaning the more boost pressure it need to append / more rpms
but what about for the recirculating bov variant?
Hi Utsesemi,
A re-circulating valve has a little wider range of possible spring pre-load.
Because the air is re-circulated and not vented to the atmosphere, the valve does not have to be held closed at idle. This means the spring can be set softer than if it was an atmospheric venting valve, and it wont negatively affect the car.
You will still gain throttle response when feathering the throttle, or on manual gearchanges if the spring is stiffened. If you're going for maximum throttle response, setting the spring pre-load just before you start to get compressor surge would be my suggestion.
You can find more detailed information in the instruction manual, that comes with the product, or on our website.
When installing, do you need a remap? Need a remap on full recirc or 50/50 or full atmo?
Luc Vekemans u ran a tune? I don’t think so. Some people say to bring it to a tuner with more mods .
I understand why you don't want the spring to be too soft but what would happen if the spring is set too tight? If You tightened the spring another 2 or 3 turns I understand you would have to rev harder for it to vent but would that cause any damage to anything? If it is so tight that it never opens then that would just make it full recirc, right?
Edit: Is having it too tight how you get compressor surge?
having it to tight would be almost like not having a BOV
***** yeah you can also get one with a larger piston and it will make it flutter all the time
Noah Stuart do you know the name or part number for a larger piston I want the flutter sound
I tried to make mine tighter ended up more back firing I think my bov is had it lol not sure what's going on can't seem to get it right
Does anyone know what spring the GFB Respons T9025 comes with? Is it the soft spring?
Hi,
The T9025 comes with the stiffer of the two springs :)
@@gfbvideos Thank you!
can i use blow off valve without the trumpet ?
Yes, you can use a BOV without the trumpet, but it won't sound as good.
can someone help me - Do you have to adjust this when you got the BOV on full recircuit?
When the valve is set to 100% re-circulation, the venting bias is less critical. It can still of course be set up for optimum throttle response, and to avoid surge.
@@gfbvideos I am on 100٪ recirc. Part T9111. I feel like my idle could be better. Does a softer or stiffer setting help idle?
@@tonyb3350 With a BOV on full recirc, it should have zero effect on the idle regardless of the spring pre-load. This is because all of the air is kept in the system, but additionally, the T9111 is typically used on the Hyundai Gamma 1.6, which has no MAF sensor. This means even if the valve were venting to atmosphere, or the piston were open or closed at idle, the ECU on these cars doesn't care and the fuelling is completely unaffected. There's certainly no harm experimenting with the spring pre-load, but if you're continuing to have issues I'd suggest contacting us via our tech support channel on the website so we can go into more detail.
@@gfbvideos last night I switched to stock valve and my idle is perfect. After I inspected the GFB valve, and it had just the slightest bit of rattle to it. It was the flange the breather hose connects to. It wasn't real loose, but I got like a 1/8 turn out of it to snug it down. Maybe it was loose enough to allow a leak? I'd like to switch back at some point and see if that was the issue. Acceleration definitely feels better with gfb valve. Im guessing it holds boost better... But, ultimately I need the car to idle right. Can some teflon tape or maybe some blue loctite be used on that flange to ensure it doesn't back out any?
@@tonyb3350 I suggest contacting our engineers through the support channel on our website gfb.com.au/contact-us/tech-support/
There must be something else going on here as these cars don't have a MAF sensor so it's not really possible for the valve to affect the AFR's and cause it to idle rough.
Our engineers would be best able to help get to the bottom of it.
Okay.. But what about the Mach 2, where it doesn't allow me to see the piston?
Listen for the engine beginning to stumble, you don't want it to stall!
Do we need a tune after installing this gem
No tune needed, the key is to set the valve up to the car, rather than tune the car to suit the valve. By setting up the spring correctly, drivability issues such as backfiring and stalling are avoided.
Tank it’s works in mi WRX 2010
Yes we do have a Respons valve to suit the 2010 WRX. The part number for this valve is T9001
How can I get my genesis coupe to flutter when I let off with this bov?
Flutter means that the BOV isn't venting to atmosphere like it should. You can block off either the port where it's supposed to be vented, or before it even gets to the bov by replacing the gasket with a solid gasket (no hole). Some people use a coke can cut to shape and it works but probably not the best.
Alternatively you can tighten the spring as far in as it'll go and that will make it harder for the valve to open, which works perfectly if you're not running high amounts of boost.
Jesta I’m running 22-25psi I have valve fully tight so flutter at all. Is that ok
@@jordan_.zx10r Surging isn't the best thing to do, but as long as you can keep the valve closed you should create backpressure towards the turbine and create surging.
do you need tune for it? car is 2016 wrx sti.
Hi Maurice,
No you don't need a tune. The purpose of the spring pre-load and venting bias adjustment are so that you can set the valve up to suit the car, rather than tuning the car to suit the valve
@@gfbvideos is it okay even the car has full bolts on and has tune for other parts. stage1 iag shortblock.
@@datuputi2544 Yes that is fine.
Good video, what happens after I wash my evo and water sits on top of the valve?
If there’s water on the outside of the valve, that’s okay. When you check inside the trumpet, if you notice any water pooling just give it a wipe with a towel. You won’t need to be more thorough than that, as the water will be blown out when you drive the car.
@@gfbvideos thank you for the quick great response, I upgraded from turbosmart and I felt much better response. Only had it about 2 weeks, I'm trying to adjust the sound so I don't sound like a boy racer all the time haha. I'll maybe try 50/50 vent tomorrow and see how it goes.
@@gfbvideos yeah the trumpet can become full of water after it rains or after I wash the car. So would you say don't worry and leave it as I don't want to be checking everytime I drive it.
I thought the piston inside opens slightly when starting car and I guess it can cause damage if water goes inside ? As you know I'm worried and probably overthinking lol. I'm from UK by the way
@@irfaan7868 It sounds like you've got a fair few technical questions about this product. For this technical information please contact us at support@gfb.com.au
on my Ford focus st mk3 the spring adjustment does not do much and on throttle stationary the valve opens fully and closes like 2 Ish seconds after venting but it closes Very fast and smooth but not smooth and slow
On your car the opening and closing of the BOV is largely dictated electronically by the ECU rather than just the spring pre-load alone as it is in this video. The spring adjustment on your car determines what the valve does in between the time that the ECU tells it too open and close, which explains why you will notice less of a difference than is shown here, and also why it snaps shut after about 2 seconds - this is the ECU turning off the solenoid.
@@gfbvideos Ok , thank you. If i put more pre-load on the bolt(+) will that make it so it will blow-off less fast at low rpm too ? it's a littly too sensitive at low rpms.. unless the only fix is direct vacuum?
@@MrTFlx Yes, increasing the spring pre-load will make it blow off less at low RPM when there isn't ac much boost to help push the piston open when the ECU applies vacuum to the top of the valve. There's absolutely no harm in experimenting with the spring pre-load, so I'd say give it a try. If you apply direct vacuum from the DV+ to the intake manifold, it is likely the ECU will log a fault code, and you would probably need to cut the spring shorter. This is because the vacuum pump the ECU uses to actuate the diverter valve pulls a MUCH stronger vacuum than the engine, and the spring we supply is designed for the pump vacuum.
Now does it matter which side the trumpet goes on ?
Hi Evan,
The trumpet and re-circulation fittings do have a specific side. This is because the trumpet port is actually positioned a few millimeters higher than the re-circulation port. The re-circulation port will open first, and at low piston lift which helps to prevent stalling and other issues.
I keep getting told I need to run a protune, or rather, RUN a protune if I am trying to run a bov open to atmosphere on my 2019 wrx.i just bought a gfb bov hybrid and I am yet to install it until my stage 1+ kit comes in.the vendor i bought it from recommends me running it at 100%recirculating without a protune to avoid issues,And said once I open to atmospheric, That it might need a custom tune...please set the record straight for me again because I need that swopshhh sound in my life...😅safely.
Hello,
Yeah I can definitely help clear that one up for you.
Being that it is quite particular to your vehicle, I'd like to answer to your specific situation rather than give general advice. If you could contact us at support@gfb.com.au, I'll be able to help you out there
does the spring pressure affect the amount of boost
If the spring is set too soft it can cause boost leakage, if it's correctly set you wont lose any boost but you can't increase the amount of boost at the peak with it.
To increase boost you need a boost controller but that's something completely different and you can blow up your engine if you dont know what you're doing using it.
What blow off valve is this? Link please?
This is a GFB Respons: gfb.com.au/products/blow-off-and-diverter-valves/respons-tms/
I bought a car with one of these in it. No idea if it's set well or not but it sounds cruddy
We can definitely help you, but I'd suggest you get in touch with our engineers via our website "contact us". They'll need some more information about what you mean by "sound cruddy", so if you can get a short video and attach it to your enquiry that will help you get an answer faster.
I have same gfb bov i notice you have the trump on i dont take it out prefer the whoosh sound than the whistle
Hi, for that video we have removed the trumpet just to make it easier to see the piston when adjusting spring pre-load. it’s worth noting that with the standard trumpet installed - it will only make a “whooshing” sound when coming off throttle. You will only get a whistling effect with the optional “whistling” trumpet. Thanks
Thanks
I get no noise from mine even on full vent to atmosphere, car boosts well 🤷
For technical help please contact support@gfb.com.au
Our engineers will be able to help. Please include as much information as you can, and pictures/video if relevant
How do you make it full recirculating?
Hello,
There will be a different method of adjusting venting bias depending on what valve you have installed. If you want more info you can check out the instructions that came with the valve, or they are also available on the website.
If you want some more info specific to your application feel free to email us at support@gfb.com.au
Still useful in 2024
I'm new to the BOV scene, so if someone can answer this question.
Does this harm your car?
John929kelvin nope just for noise
Honestly depends on your car, short answer no, but some cars that were designed for the air to recirculate back into your intake this might not work so well unless you have a proper tune
Is there someone in melbourne that can do this for my car? I have deceptor pro 2 and it stalls on me when i slow down so i run mine closed
Michael wind that screw he literally just showed you in more because that valve he showed is meant to be closed before idle, did you even watch the video???
What is the disadvantage of just winding it up to Max spring pressure?
the valve will not open for long enough for all the necessary air to escape, so you may experience compressor surge at high boost
@@lachlannh ty. Hadn't thought of that.
Yeah that is correct. Once you start to get compressor surge, you aren't going to be able to retain any more boost pressure in the intercooler by continuing to increase pre-load. The pressure will instead escape out through the turbo instead of the valve. so this is the most you can improve the responsiveness.
See i was told by some random dude.. (i know right)
It should be set as HARD as Possible but not so hard it dont vent and causes compressor surge..
so soft as possible without leaking on idle or Hard as possible without surging turbine
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Wish you would reply
Hi Dylan,
Sorry I can't see any other comments from you. Did you message us elsewhere?
"Threes turns or so" Turns it six times
😄Fair comment, I meant three "full" turns, which took 6 half turns with the hex key.
Wtf… I have to take apart half my car to get to the valve… what kinda BS is this under the hood.
What car is it?
@@gfbvideos Focus ST… also, not to hijack your post here but I installed the DV+ on my ‘15 ST w/ a new turbo last week and I am getting a whistling noise. Sounds like a flute player is under my hood (not the flutter). I’ve pulled the DV off and re-installed, played with the spring settings and it won’t go away. Any ideas? I got it new from VividRacing.
Thanks!
th-cam.com/users/shortsnP_n9g9Mpns?feature=share
Rubbish...after 1 Year it was broken...
Hello,
Sorry to hear you were having problems with your valve. We do have lifetime warranty on all our parts. If you can get in touch with us at support@gfb.com.au we'll be happy to help you out.
Did your car start running like shit after it went bad? I think mine did yesterday on my 06 wrx.
@@isaacreyes8168 Hi Isaac,
I'd be happy to help you out. We have lifetime warranty on our parts so if you can send an email to us at support@gfb.com.au I'll see what I can do.
The more information you can give us the better we can solve the issue so feel free to leave as much detail as possible about the problems!
More speech than do action.. erghh