Hey man! You are a life saver! 🤣 I just got the same explorer! Same everything! Even that crack on the back! Please continue with the off road build! I am trying to do the same here! You are so much help since it will be my first car that I work on! Thank you!
My dude!!!!!the videos are on point they are awsomesause I'am currently restoring my 2002 explorer thank you for all the tip will be looking for more....here is a trip from a painter when you paint with any spray paint its good to put them in warm water before use for about 10mins that goes for primer and finisher it will loosen up the paint thanks again
Good job bro- Only suggestion is use a fine finish sand paper. I believe the piece is fiverglass and you will be painting, so you want the smallest abrasion as possible.
The crack happens because the trim panel starts to leak and can fill with water. It fills with water during the day then after a night freeze you wind up with the cracked panel. Best way to avoid this would be to seal the top of the trim panel when it is dry so that water can't collect in it.
I read that the problem is in the chemistry of the particular version of ABS plastic that they used. Apparently, it is prone to cracking, and it has cracked even in non automotive purposes. They should've used the same ABS plastic thats in the bumpers, or made it a metallic piece. Or they could have just not had that type of panel, like the previous generation had, as well as the 2006 +. When the problem first started, Ford was replacing the entire back glass and panel! YIKES! It was costing them 4x as much as the next expensive warranty item. Costing them over $1 million per month, just for that warranty repair.
Thanks for the video I'm sure it'll help me out going to install that panel today. I bought one pre painted the same color as my car which is the red G2 color code. My original has multiple cracks.
I have a 2005 Explorer 11k original miles that was my Step moms my dad paid 1,200 to get that piece replaced then one month later it did it again, I now own this vehicle it’s cherry except for that ugly crack, if it was fiberglass it would never crack plastic was a bad idea I’m gonna tell you why, when people shut the hatch they usually do it with one hand which strains one side of door the metal flexes, but like this guy said it’s glued with Windshield Black silicon which is super strong! I’m going to take mine off and fiberglass the inside with one sheet, hopefully it won’t get in the way and stick out to far or If they make a good after market one I’ll think about buying one!
I have a 2004 Lincoln Aviator. I have the same problem with the rear lift cracking. Apparently very common on Explorers and Aviators. I was wondering where you ordered the part from. I find it quite difficult finding parts due to the year.
I ended up finding the part on eBay, but I don’t know how easy it will be to source one for the aviator. Might have to check with your local Lincoln dealerships part department.
Mine is cracked and tonight while driving I go over a bump and the entire back window shattered that plastic trim you replaced is all bent. Now I need a whole new lift gate 😭
Any luck on locating the part? I own an '05 Aviator with same issue. Know the part number is 4C5Z78402A30BAPTM but every parts seller I've come across says its discontinued.
We’d like to see more vids this really helped me w my red 2004 Ford Explorer bought a panel for 50$ on eBay it’s black on red but with my black LED head and taillights the contrast of red and black looks nice in my opinion
Mine It’s cracking again in three places even worse than the first time, do you think I could put a little gorilla glue in between the seams temporary?
I have a 2004 Ford Explorer that was rear ended. They replaced the lift gate but used the old lift handle from the other lift gat. One day recently I noticed that the plastic that holds the lift gate in place, all 4 were cracked. I found a replacement online but here's my issue I need help with. It has a back up camera attached and the button release for the window. How would I go about reattaching those two items. As you can guess, I'm an old woman. The Ford place quoted me around $1k for the part, labor & paint.
It came in black, but I shaved off the area where the ford emblem goes. Then primed it, and sanded it smooth. I left it in the primered look for a while, then eventually painted it all one color.
I also want to ask you if the black panel will blend/match the back glass, or should I just paint it? My explorer is a tan 2004 xls. Im looking for a tan 2006 or newer tailgate, but if this panel matches the glass, I will just get it.
Hey, I know you said you'd upload something if the tape didn't hold up. How is it working out? I'm looking at replacing mine soon and just wanted to see if I needed to look at something stronger/different.
Thanks! I have plans of wrapping the whole vehicle at some point, so I figured I wouldn’t paint it. Jump ahead to one of the more recent videos, and I ended up spraying that whole panel with primer to get rid of the “cow print” look lol.
Hi, I know this is an old post, but thought I'd try. Replacing mine, but can't for the life of me get the old glue off? Tried everything! Be chance how bad would it be to just fit the new one over the top using that tape? Thanks! Michael
I'm sure you could put the tape on top of the glue. The only issues you may run into is the rear hatch trim might stick out a bit. It's best to try and get it flush and remove all the glue, but its up to you.
Its so stupid. I literally saw my first one with a perfect tailgate a few months ago. And it was not the facelifted one. By the way, a good fix would be to get a 2006 and up tailgate, as it does not have this plastic piece.
All the 2002-2005 Explorers have the same problem. It's not the adhesive so much as the plastic they used has issues in cold weather and shrinks a lot causing it to crack at weak points. The new parts are re-designed to prevent cracking. You can buy painted replacements to match factory colors. It's a lot easier to paint it before installation. Sorry, don't like the look without the Ford logo.
I Have plans of plastidipping, or vinyl wrapping the entire vehicle here in the future. I figured it didn’t matter if I painted that piece, but I may just give it a fresh coat so it doesn’t look like cow print until then lol
Yes, it’s the same for removal and installation. You just have to order the 02-05 mountaineer rear hatch trim instead of the Ford Explorer one used in the video.
The panel sits flush. There's like 2 layers when removing the rear trim. The first is the factory adhesive, and the one below it is like a hardened plastic material. The Factory glue came off with the rear trim panel. You can kinda see in the video where I got too aggressive with the hammer and scraper, and accidentally took off some of the plastic under the glue.
I used 3m EZ sand filer 05887, and a light weight body filer. You'll need the 3m applicator gun, and nozzles to apply the EZ sand material. I have everything I used linked in the description of the video.
@@AbnormalGarage ok I understand. Vinyl wrap would be nice and you can do your hood as well. Would be a nice match. Some red tow hooks for your front bottom bumper cover would also throw a nice rugged touch to it as well. I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT as well. I also go badge less on mine. Hope everything goes well.
Thanks, I'm glad you like my videos! A Duramax swapped Tahoe would be fun. I'll keep it in mind for a future build, but for now I'm just working with what I've got.
Phillip pacheco they have diesel Yukon /suburban conversions for the 2500s. But some 2 doors have the Detroit diesel. But a duramax 2 door Tahoe would be very expensive. Also thinking about the frame and suspension would be a challenge because they are 1500 frame
Ford calls it an "applique". You can find it under the Body/Glass - Lift Gate section of the parts diagram. I just bought one for a Lincoln Aviator for $109 from my local dealer. It has a glossy black finish that doesn't look perfect but blends in with the glass so it works well enough. It'd be another $250 to have it painted to match. My guess is that it'll break again someday. I'm sure every Ford engineer on the planet cringes a little when they pull up behind any mid 2000 s era Explorer/Aviator/Mountaineer at a stop light and see the ever-present crack. Good luck finding one at a junk yard that isn't cracked!
it cracks because of dirt clogging up the drains and water freezing behind it. Whoever fixed it probably didn't leave the opening at the bottom to let it drain. mine didn't crack till it sat for a year and collected dirt and pollen on it.
Yes it did! I haven't had any issues with it so far, its held up nicely. The tape that I used was 3m super strength moulding tape. I think the size I went with was the .25in x 15ft, and that was just enough. You can usually find it at most auto parts stores.
People don’t click on your video to see your shop renovations. It may be a surprise to you and many video producers - because I see the same issue many times. Oh, screw it. No one is ever going to understand.
Hey man! You are a life saver! 🤣 I just got the same explorer! Same everything! Even that crack on the back! Please continue with the off road build! I am trying to do the same here! You are so much help since it will be my first car that I work on! Thank you!
My dude!!!!!the videos are on point they are awsomesause I'am currently restoring my 2002 explorer thank you for all the tip will be looking for more....here is a trip from a painter when you paint with any spray paint its good to put them in warm water before use for about 10mins that goes for primer and finisher it will loosen up the paint thanks again
Good job bro-
Only suggestion is use a fine finish sand paper. I believe the piece is fiverglass and you will be painting, so you want the smallest abrasion as possible.
The crack happens because the trim panel starts to leak and can fill with water. It fills with water during the day then after a night freeze you wind up with the cracked panel. Best way to avoid this would be to seal the top of the trim panel when it is dry so that water can't collect in it.
I read that the problem is in the chemistry of the particular version of ABS plastic that they used. Apparently, it is prone to cracking, and it has cracked even in non automotive purposes. They should've used the same ABS plastic thats in the bumpers, or made it a metallic piece. Or they could have just not had that type of panel, like the previous generation had, as well as the 2006 +. When the problem first started, Ford was replacing the entire back glass and panel! YIKES! It was costing them 4x as much as the next expensive warranty item. Costing them over $1 million per month, just for that warranty repair.
Thanks for the video I'm sure it'll help me out going to install that panel today. I bought one pre painted the same color as my car which is the red G2 color code. My original has multiple cracks.
Do you know where I could find a replacement license plate light cover?
I have a 2005 Explorer 11k original miles that was my Step moms my dad paid 1,200 to get that piece replaced then one month later it did it again, I now own this vehicle it’s cherry except for that ugly crack, if it was fiberglass it would never crack plastic was a bad idea I’m gonna tell you why, when people shut the hatch they usually do it with one hand which strains one side of door the metal flexes, but like this guy said it’s glued with Windshield Black silicon which is super strong! I’m going to take mine off and fiberglass the inside with one sheet, hopefully it won’t get in the way and stick out to far or If they make a good after market one I’ll think about buying one!
I have a 2004 Lincoln Aviator. I have the same problem with the rear lift cracking. Apparently very common on Explorers and Aviators. I was wondering where you ordered the part from. I find it quite difficult finding parts due to the year.
I ended up finding the part on eBay, but I don’t know how easy it will be to source one for the aviator. Might have to check with your local Lincoln dealerships part department.
Mine is cracked and tonight while driving I go over a bump and the entire back window shattered that plastic trim you replaced is all bent. Now I need a whole new lift gate 😭
Any luck on locating the part? I own an '05 Aviator with same issue. Know the part number is 4C5Z78402A30BAPTM but every parts seller I've come across says its discontinued.
We’d like to see more vids this really helped me w my red 2004 Ford Explorer bought a panel for 50$ on eBay it’s black on red but with my black LED head and taillights the contrast of red and black looks nice in my opinion
Where did you get your headlights and taillights
Mine It’s cracking again in three places even worse than the first time, do you think I could put a little gorilla glue in between the seams temporary?
You now have an unbranded vehicle.
I have a 2004 Ford Explorer that was rear ended. They replaced the lift gate but used the old lift handle from the other lift gat. One day recently I noticed that the plastic that holds the lift gate in place, all 4 were cracked. I found a replacement online but here's my issue I need help with. It has a back up camera attached and the button release for the window. How would I go about reattaching those two items. As you can guess, I'm an old woman. The Ford place quoted me around $1k for the part, labor & paint.
I would like you to show us how to remove the roof rack end covers on a 04 Ford Explorer.
Why is the applique that you put on greyish and look like it is damaged? What happened to the black one? Please explain.
It came in black, but I shaved off the area where the ford emblem goes. Then primed it, and sanded it smooth. I left it in the primered look for a while, then eventually painted it all one color.
I also want to ask you if the black panel will blend/match the back glass, or should I just paint it? My explorer is a tan 2004 xls. Im looking for a tan 2006 or newer tailgate, but if this panel matches the glass, I will just get it.
Hey, I know you said you'd upload something if the tape didn't hold up. How is it working out? I'm looking at replacing mine soon and just wanted to see if I needed to look at something stronger/different.
The tapes held up great. I haven’t had any issues with it.
I am surprized you didn't paint it before installing it..loved your video thx..silly ford wont fix this for their customers
Thanks! I have plans of wrapping the whole vehicle at some point, so I figured I wouldn’t paint it. Jump ahead to one of the more recent videos, and I ended up spraying that whole panel with primer to get rid of the “cow print” look lol.
Hi, I know this is an old post, but thought I'd try. Replacing mine, but can't for the life of me get the old glue off? Tried everything! Be chance how bad would it be to just fit the new one over the top using that tape?
Thanks!
Michael
I'm sure you could put the tape on top of the glue. The only issues you may run into is the rear hatch trim might stick out a bit. It's best to try and get it flush and remove all the glue, but its up to you.
I literally went to the junkyard and bought a rear hatch for 25 bucks and installed it. But this works too if you have time to spare lol
The only problem is the crack is inevitable due to the lack of expansion and contraction because it glued in place. Itll happen again.
Just had mine explode at a car wash can u go to the junk yard and actually pull the entire window hatch and panel piece all as one?
Hey brother why you didn’t fix the one you had before? I have the same problem in my Ford 2002. I’m thinking of getting it fix
The one on the vehicle was very brittle, so it would’ve been a lot of work to repair it. Buying a new one was a much easier and cheaper solution.
That was Fords problem they could never figure out how to solve that problem. Can never figure out why the designed the hatch like that.
Its so stupid. I literally saw my first one with a perfect tailgate a few months ago. And it was not the facelifted one. By the way, a good fix would be to get a 2006 and up tailgate, as it does not have this plastic piece.
Eastsidegeorgiaboy and I have an 02 mountaineer still no crack original panel haha I’m a god
Man my 02 Explorer didnt have a crack but the adhesive was coming off on one side then a windy day later the wind broke it off.
All the 2002-2005 Explorers have the same problem. It's not the adhesive so much as the plastic they used has issues in cold weather and shrinks a lot causing it to crack at weak points. The new parts are re-designed to prevent cracking. You can buy painted replacements to match factory colors. It's a lot easier to paint it before installation. Sorry, don't like the look without the Ford logo.
Thanks for the video. I'm kinda guessing the double sided tape did not hold up did it?
3.5 years later, and the double sided tape is still holding up great
A friend told me I could swap the 3rd gen lift gate for a fourth gen lift gate and no more cracks? Is this possible?
I've never attempted it, but I've been told this as well.
Surprised you didn't paint that panel before fitting it.
I Have plans of plastidipping, or vinyl wrapping the entire vehicle here in the future. I figured it didn’t matter if I painted that piece, but I may just give it a fresh coat so it doesn’t look like cow print until then lol
Hey man anyway I could get you to do be an unbranded back piece? I got an 02 explorer too
I always wonder why Ford / Mercury never improved that rear panel? Don’t they have engineers that could solve that problem?
Where did you buy the piece From?
I got it from Amazon. It’s linked in the description of the video.
Will this work for the 02-05 mountaineers ?
Yes, it’s the same for removal and installation. You just have to order the 02-05 mountaineer rear hatch trim instead of the Ford Explorer one used in the video.
Does the panel not sit higher since you put the tape on top of the existing adhesive? I feel like it wouldn’t be flush anymor like that.
The panel sits flush. There's like 2 layers when removing the rear trim. The first is the factory adhesive, and the one below it is like a hardened plastic material. The Factory glue came off with the rear trim panel. You can kinda see in the video where I got too aggressive with the hammer and scraper, and accidentally took off some of the plastic under the glue.
Never mind I see the comments below on that
Como se llama la cinta q uso para aderir el plastico
Why didnt you paint it while it was off?
What is the correct name of that piece plz
Can you please tell me all the things you used to fill the emblem hole with ?
I used 3m EZ sand filer 05887, and a light weight body filer. You'll need the 3m applicator gun, and nozzles to apply the EZ sand material. I have everything I used linked in the description of the video.
Would this one crack? Is it made out of a stronger material?
Why didn't you paint it before putting it back on?
I'm planning on vinyl wrapping or plasti dipping the whole explorer at some point, so I didn't think it would be necessary to paint it.
@@AbnormalGarage ok I understand. Vinyl wrap would be nice and you can do your hood as well. Would be a nice match. Some red tow hooks for your front bottom bumper cover would also throw a nice rugged touch to it as well. I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT as well. I also go badge less on mine. Hope everything goes well.
Did the double sided tape prevent future cracking?
It’s been a little over 3 years and no cracking issues so far.
@@AbnormalGarageI’m doing this to my 02 explorer. Is yours still not cracked an the tape holding up still
I like your videos allot man , keep like that . Why u don't build. 2 door thoe and swap motor to Duramax ? Is more fun for the channel
Thanks, I'm glad you like my videos! A Duramax swapped Tahoe would be fun. I'll keep it in mind for a future build, but for now I'm just working with what I've got.
I don't have any car now , but my dream is the car I told u , and I never seen nobody doing a thoe Duramax
Phillip pacheco they have diesel Yukon /suburban conversions for the 2500s. But some 2 doors have the Detroit diesel. But a duramax 2 door Tahoe would be very expensive. Also thinking about the frame and suspension would be a challenge because they are 1500 frame
2006 on up doesn't have the plastic piece.
Abnormal, is that the 60$ unpainted one? Or the 120$ black clear coat one?
It was the unpainted one.
Abnormal Garage thanks you just saved me another 60$, the unpainted will probably match a 2004 black paint job of it comes like that
Where can I get that rear panel? I have the same issue with my 04 except I have a half inch gap from cracking and seperation
I found it on eBay. You'll just have to search for "Ford Explorer rear hatch liftgate panel", and it should pop up. They might be on Amazon as well.
Thanks man im sure you get asked that alot lol
You're welcome! And occasionally I'll get asked, but I don't mind answering.
Just got one off Ebay, 43 bucks it came gloss black which works perfect for me.
Ford calls it an "applique". You can find it under the Body/Glass - Lift Gate section of the parts diagram. I just bought one for a Lincoln Aviator for $109 from my local dealer. It has a glossy black finish that doesn't look perfect but blends in with the glass so it works well enough. It'd be another $250 to have it painted to match. My guess is that it'll break again someday. I'm sure every Ford engineer on the planet cringes a little when they pull up behind any mid 2000
s era Explorer/Aviator/Mountaineer at a stop light and see the ever-present crack. Good luck finding one at a junk yard that isn't cracked!
I’d buy a debadged Mineral Gray (TK) color panel from you ! Let me know 😭
How’s this working out in the long term? Did it recrack? Also shout out from Des Moines!
No cracking or any other issues with it so far, and it been almost a year.
Abnormal Garage I’m debating between doing this to mine vs. trying to find an entire batch off an 06-10 Explorer after they got rid of that strip.
That would work too. Just need to find someone selling a hatch or find one at a junk yard 👍
Abnormal Garage I see it’s a 3M product but what specifically did you use to attach it to the vehicle?
I used 3m super strength moulding tape. Everything I used should be linked in the description of the video.
Are u still doing the build I have a 02 4x4 xlt v6
Yes, I'm still doing the build on the Explorer.
Abnormal Garage Are you going to post any videos?
What kind of tape was that
3m double sided tape. I have it linked in the description, otherwise you should be able to find it at any auto parts store.
Where did you get that from i need one
I ended up finding it on ebay, just search for a ford explorer rear hatch liftgate panel, and it should pop up.
Mine cracked and The window exploded I had it repaired and it’s starting to crack again.
it cracks because of dirt clogging up the drains and water freezing behind it. Whoever fixed it probably didn't leave the opening at the bottom to let it drain.
mine didn't crack till it sat for a year and collected dirt and pollen on it.
Did that 3m tape work? If so, exactly what kind was it? About to replace mine and not sure what type of adhesive to use.
Yes it did! I haven't had any issues with it so far, its held up nicely. The tape that I used was 3m super strength moulding tape. I think the size I went with was the .25in x 15ft, and that was just enough. You can usually find it at most auto parts stores.
Thanks. Going with the .5in. just so I feel better. lol
I have the same lemon,even diwn to the ugly color,lol
not sure why anyone would do that
People don’t click on your video to see your shop renovations. It may be a surprise to you and many video producers - because I see the same issue many times. Oh, screw it. No one is ever going to understand.