Good job, I’m slightly OCD so Lippage and crowning drive me crazy. Self leveling is definitely the way to fix that problem. I would suggest the easiest way to make sure it’s level is use screws in each corner and level from screw to screw and adjust the screw height to make it level. That way when you pour your self leveling you know how much to come up on each point. I find that self-leveling always doesn’t level correctly, it gives a reference to how much to pour and level.
The whale tail vacuum attachments work surprisingly well to keep dust down. Just attach to the rim of a bucket. I can mix any type of cement indoors without throwing dust in the air.
I carry an industrial 36" fan. I set it up on some work horses and point it out of an open window. Mix and cut in front of it and dust gone in an instant. Great when polishing and sweeping up as well.
Self leveler is a real game changer. When I use it I always mix it close to where I'm going to be using it. It's really tough toting 2 mixed buckets and I can't imagine how bad it would be if a handle broke on a bucket as you wind your way through the customers home. Would not be good
I was waiting for it. He's going to be like me unfortunately if he keeps that up. Surgery on both shoulders and out of commission. Work a little smarter for your body's sake Isaac. Your still awesome though bro.
Here's another way to make the Level Quick seek Level and smooth itself out. Get your Sawzall out, without a blade in it and put the end of it against your plate or subfloor around the edges of the pan and turn it on!. This works as a vibrater. It works well for this application.
Covid and other health issues took me out of the game. However I've always enjoyed your videos. Very professional but personable. Thanks for being you and keep up the good work. My kids have taken over my business and I've recommended your channel. May Jah bless and again keep up the good videos.
This is what I'll be doing later this weekend as a homeowner. I've already replaced the rotted subfloor boards, tightened them up, and then fastened down plywood on top of that. Pretty close to level, but I want the foam Kerdi pan to live its best life (as my kids would say) on a perfectly level base wall to wall. Plus, I have some wiggle room on depth because the old shower was a thick mud bed in a lead pan. I've used a similar leveling product on a concrete basement floor. This two bucket shower area should be a breeze in comparison. I did learn from another source that I'll need to use reinforcement over the plywood, and the bonding agent, and your video provides even more evidence that it's worth the trouble.
Can you describe a bit more about how you'd use backer rod in this scenario? Would it be put down on top of the wire mesh along side the four edges of the shower base? Thanks
Tip for pouring the leveling in to the bucket prior to mixing. Hold the bag sideways on the rim of the bucket and cut the bag in the middle (on the side facing the bucket for obvious reasons) then flip the bag over flat with the cut side down and pinch the leveling out slowly. This will help with dust control if you are by yourself as the bag will cover the bucket opening, then leave the bag on while mixing until all the powder is mixed in
A little trick I use to cover the drain hole on the floor is use a hole saw to cut circles out of OSB or other wood, just a little bigger than the hole, put a little bit of toilet wax on one side, just enough to seal between the floor and my wood circle, and screw it down. I have a few different sizes that I reuse, It works for me every time.
A good way to check if you have poured a relatively flat area is to look at any reflections in the wet mix. Any area that need attention will show as a distortion. In this case it looks good 👍
I'm not sure everyone here gets the jist of this video. When a foam pan is being installed, the foam pan is premade with a slope. The floor underneath needs to be level or the slope built into the pan will not be correct. The tape on the plywood subfloor is only to keep the liquid leveler from running through the seams when poured. The lathe is not a hard requirement but the area is large and the leveler is relatively thin so it adds additional strength to the subfloor. After this is done, Thinset will be used over the subfloor to set the foam shower pan. Totally waterproof if done correctly and will not fail unless the subfloor fails and that would be the same using any pan method. BTW, some of the newer "foam" shower pans and wall panels are fiber reinforced, some using kevlar.
If you can get Henry Liquid Backer Board you don’t need metal lath over plywood. Not every HD stocks it, but if I ship to store it usually comes within the week.
I've just poured self leveling compound on plywood floor to create a level 'plinth' for an acrylic shower pan - it's 3/8" thick to bring it flush with the Ditra XL I'll be tiling on. Obviously I will still be fixing the pan in mortar on top of the SLC but I was advised that pre-leveling the floor makes that step a lot easier, especially if you're in-experienced. I used 3/8" ply as a dam on the outside edges (pending installation of the Ditra) with a thin line of silicone-latex caulk to make it water-tight. I also ran caulk along the base of the inside wall frame and stuck foam 'backer rod' to it to serve as an expansion joint - some folks use 'Sill-Seal', but I had some backer-rod left over from a previous tiling project. I'll also be using it in the expansion gap between the SLC and Ditra also when I come to install it. You don't mention any need for perimeter expansion joints in your video ? Does the mesh screen (slat) you used somehow compensate for that ? I assume it's intended to reinforce the SLC anyway ? Cheers.
I'm amazed at the working time you had with that product. I've used it several times and it starts setting up in minutes. I get nervous mixing multiple buckets at once even if I'm right next to where it's going to be poured and there you are walking across an entire house, chatting in front of the camera and then casually pouring it. Surely you must have used a little extra water? Maybe even refrigerated/chilled water.
Great video. One thing I’ll say is Ardex buckets are a must when I mix SLU. They’re a 6 gallon bucket so you have enough room to mix a full and not spill any.
Good job, buy yourself a dewalt 54v mixer and mix in the room it has a speed control wheel so it doesnt fly everywhere and i use mine on every job saves setting up tripping hazards and it can be stood upside down after mix so don't have to lean on wall - i also cut all my plastics with 54v grinder with metal cutting disc - it cuts copper quick and any plastic cladding like a dream
I always find that when mixing either floor tile adhesive or self levelling compound, it's easier putting half the bag in and mixing and then putting the remain remaining bag in also the mix. Makes more consistent and never has any lumps.
@@erichermann7553 get someone to pour the bag in while you mix. Pour it in gradually. I prefer ultra tile self levelling compound 2 part. Has the tub of white milky activator with it. The ones where you use water are shit.
That's one hell of a long walk with those heavy buckets! I wish I saw this video before installing my pan. Got it mortared in only to discover running away from the drain when I water tested. I thought the subfloor was level but I learned the hard way that just being a little bit off is huge for water. Now I have to rip up pan and do this before installing a new one. Expensive lesson learned. Do you have a video for pan removal? LOL.
Awhile ago (years now), my tile Contractor called this kind of lath "Rattlesnake lathe" because when you cut it, it always wants to bite you. Good old Todd (who was the same age as me!).
I've been viewing many of your videos. Very enjoyable. I'm still trying to understand the process. I started with stud pack, and now your productions. Self leveling cement seems pointless when sloping is a goal.
9:56 Nothing like carrying two 5 gallon buckets a mile to the bathroom, lol. Also, I like using Huber zip flashing tape to put down on the subfloor instead of duck tape, do need there J-roller w/ that “Z” to press it down, but know when done get a good seal (bond) for “joining the sheets of plywood”. Is more expensive than duck tape, but do like it better as no water proof and at times duck tape just get “icky”. But everyone does things differently 😊 As for foam, like the gray, as also keeps out pests/rodents and they won’t eat the stuff either when sealing off holes/gaps….but either way works👍🏻 Nice vid and glad to “see ya”. Have a good one✌🏻
Hell Isaac, this is a big help. I am installing a shower (Schluter system) in a new location, I have full access under the house for plumbing. The floor is off a little so I will use this technique to level the area. My question is: can I wait to cut the drain opening until after I use the leveler as long as I have cut away the metal lath in the drain area before I pour? I have never drilled through cured leveler with a hole saw. Thank you.
all is good and interesting. However poring a thin concrete slab ober a wood foundation is prom to crack. So, do you have any idea how long this foundation for the shower pan wouls last? 10 years, 15, 20? I like to try the same thing in my 2 flor bath however this is the question I asking muself. Thank you for your responce.
It's just providing a level base for the foam shower pan, which will be adhered to it with thinset like one big tile.. Some hairline cracks won't matter. But, any major deflection of the wood will be a problem for the shower floor tile.
You forgot to mention that when you have a couple flights of steps and a long walk with two buckets of self leveler you also get in a full body workout
No need to put a water proof coating on the ply board as a protective layer against the level quick? My understanding is cement is not good for bare wood
I love watching your videos and helping share knowledge on all areas of construction. I have a question? In the previous video, I saw you using deck mud for tile. Is it possible to use cement and sand? The reason is that I live in Central America and we don't have such. So, is it possible to prepare cement, portland, with white sand and have the consistency of deck mud?
Thanks for all the great videos. I'm building a bathroom in my old house where I've completely rebuild my floor with 2×6 joints 12" on ceter and 1-1/8" plywood. The bathroom is over the basement. On a plywood subfloor, what is your preferred method for highest quality? A hot-mop pan system or this new system? I only want to do this once in my lifetime, so I wanna do it the best job that I can.
Thanks for the great video. I need to level my shower. It's maybe an eight out, Do you think its possible for me to scribe the schluter curb level, glue/thinset it down to the floor and use that to contain the LevelQuick?
I was expecting that the stacked spacers would have been left in for the pour, as a guide to the where the leveler needs to rise to, just as a verification tool.
I'm going to be doing this on 3/4" OSB....level quick recommends Red guard on OSB prior to primer and lath...do you think that's really necessary? Any reason they'd want the Red guard down first?
How would i fill in cement to make up a stand up shower where theres a square ft hole around the drain? There is a empty area of soil under the slab so filling in wouldnt work
Quick question, NXT Level Plus is at Floor and Decor. Costs $45. Level Quick is $30 plus $18 for lath. Would it make sense to just use NXT and not go with the lath for roughly the same price?
Thanks, Isaac! Quick question: In this video you used lathe, though in another self leveler --> foam shower pan video you didn't. Why/why not use the lathe? I'm going big on a DIY master bath remodel up the road from you in Truckee, and your videos have been super helpful.
Thanks for being here! If you like the work pants I’m wearing, use this link to get 15% off your order: truewerk.com?sca_ref=1191047.oMWs0Pje7x
but do you like the work pants
Lowest point?
Good job, I’m slightly OCD so Lippage and crowning drive me crazy. Self leveling is definitely the way to fix that problem. I would suggest the easiest way to make sure it’s level is use screws in each corner and level from screw to screw and adjust the screw height to make it level. That way when you pour your self leveling you know how much to come up on each point. I find that self-leveling always doesn’t level correctly, it gives a reference to how much to pour and level.
The whale tail vacuum attachments work surprisingly well to keep dust down. Just attach to the rim of a bucket. I can mix any type of cement indoors without throwing dust in the air.
I will have to give that a go! TY!
If u could send me the link to that vacuum attachment that would be awesome thank u
I carry an industrial 36" fan. I set it up on some work horses and point it out of an open window. Mix and cut in front of it and dust gone in an instant. Great when polishing and sweeping up as well.
Self leveler is a real game changer. When I use it I always mix it close to where I'm going to be using it. It's really tough toting 2 mixed buckets and I can't imagine how bad it would be if a handle broke on a bucket as you wind your way through the customers home. Would not be good
I like to set up negative air flow with a hepa like he has. Works great. I'm looking to get one for my shop too
Lmfao I totally pictured that happening absolute nightmare
Thought the same thing. Disastrous potentially.
I was waiting for it. He's going to be like me unfortunately if he keeps that up. Surgery on both shoulders and out of commission. Work a little smarter for your body's sake Isaac. Your still awesome though bro.
never ever set up that far away. like you said, had the handle broken OH MY GOD NIGHTMARE!!!
Here's another way to make the Level Quick seek Level and smooth itself out. Get your Sawzall out, without a blade in it and put the end of it against your plate or subfloor around the edges of the pan and turn it on!. This works as a vibrater. It works well for this application.
Covid and other health issues took me out of the game. However I've always enjoyed your videos. Very professional but personable. Thanks for being you and keep up the good work. My kids have taken over my business and I've recommended your channel. May Jah bless and again keep up the good videos.
This is what I'll be doing later this weekend as a homeowner. I've already replaced the rotted subfloor boards, tightened them up, and then fastened down plywood on top of that. Pretty close to level, but I want the foam Kerdi pan to live its best life (as my kids would say) on a perfectly level base wall to wall. Plus, I have some wiggle room on depth because the old shower was a thick mud bed in a lead pan. I've used a similar leveling product on a concrete basement floor. This two bucket shower area should be a breeze in comparison. I did learn from another source that I'll need to use reinforcement over the plywood, and the bonding agent, and your video provides even more evidence that it's worth the trouble.
A backer rod would have been a good idea for expansion where tile meets leveler. Great videos my man.
Can you describe a bit more about how you'd use backer rod in this scenario? Would it be put down on top of the wire mesh along side the four edges of the shower base? Thanks
You got some big balls carrying that self level over all that berber lol
Tip for pouring the leveling in to the bucket prior to mixing.
Hold the bag sideways on the rim of the bucket and cut the bag in the middle (on the side facing the bucket for obvious reasons) then flip the bag over flat with the cut side down and pinch the leveling out slowly. This will help with dust control if you are by yourself as the bag will cover the bucket opening, then leave the bag on while mixing until all the powder is mixed in
i put full bag in bucket - use my MAP gas burner to burn bag away then add water
@@daveh4925 that sounds expensive lol
@@bsmbB i'll level with ya, my wifes expensive the bag is cheap
@@daveh4925 lol i meant using the map gas to burn it off doesnt sound like it works either tbh
Or just get the ardex dust control system and that's it .
Dang Isaac, that's a long distance to walk with that self-leveler! Surprised it did not cure on you as you walked up the stairs.
A little trick I use to cover the drain hole on the floor is use a hole saw to cut circles out of OSB or other wood, just a little bigger than the hole, put a little bit of toilet wax on one side, just enough to seal between the floor and my wood circle, and screw it down. I have a few different sizes that I reuse, It works for me every time.
A good way to check if you have poured a relatively flat area is to look at any reflections in the wet mix. Any area that need attention will show as a distortion. In this case it looks good 👍
I wish folks would discuss the mechanics of a shower drain components and how the install in a foam or mud base with some detail.
Why?
Dang, this guy is a good teacher.
I love your attention to detail and your integrity to provide the best quality possible. Kudos!!
If you tap the floor with the forks of the hammer, it will help the self level find level.
Best tile guy on TH-cam
Ive poured 60 bags of that stuff in a day for a hardwood floor on a concrete slab to meet out new tile floor in a kitchen. That was a fun one for sure
I spotted that knee pad around your ankle. The struggle is real LOL
😂
Great video, I’ll have to find those bucket liners. I get pretty tired of cleaning buckets.
Thanks, Isaac, for sharing your knowledge with us mere mortals! I've learned a ton from your videos and am stocked to get to work on my own bathrooms.
That’s how a many a masters started ......... by re doing and redoing their own bathroom lol 😂no offense
You keep coming with the info. Appreciate you helping us homeowners.
I'm not sure everyone here gets the jist of this video. When a foam pan is being installed, the foam pan is premade with a slope. The floor underneath needs to be level or the slope built into the pan will not be correct. The tape on the plywood subfloor is only to keep the liquid leveler from running through the seams when poured. The lathe is not a hard requirement but the area is large and the leveler is relatively thin so it adds additional strength to the subfloor. After this is done, Thinset will be used over the subfloor to set the foam shower pan. Totally waterproof if done correctly and will not fail unless the subfloor fails and that would be the same using any pan method. BTW, some of the newer "foam" shower pans and wall panels are fiber reinforced, some using kevlar.
If you can get Henry Liquid Backer Board you don’t need metal lath over plywood. Not every HD stocks it, but if I ship to store it usually comes within the week.
On a wood floor, I'm a fan of using a laser level and screws to set my height.
Good vid Isaac 👌
I've just poured self leveling compound on plywood floor to create a level 'plinth' for an acrylic shower pan - it's 3/8" thick to bring it flush with the Ditra XL I'll be tiling on. Obviously I will still be fixing the pan in mortar on top of the SLC but I was advised that pre-leveling the floor makes that step a lot easier, especially if you're in-experienced. I used 3/8" ply as a dam on the outside edges (pending installation of the Ditra) with a thin line of silicone-latex caulk to make it water-tight. I also ran caulk along the base of the inside wall frame and stuck foam 'backer rod' to it to serve as an expansion joint - some folks use 'Sill-Seal', but I had some backer-rod left over from a previous tiling project. I'll also be using it in the expansion gap between the SLC and Ditra also when I come to install it. You don't mention any need for perimeter expansion joints in your video ? Does the mesh screen (slat) you used somehow compensate for that ? I assume it's intended to reinforce the SLC anyway ? Cheers.
I'm amazed at the working time you had with that product. I've used it several times and it starts setting up in minutes. I get nervous mixing multiple buckets at once even if I'm right next to where it's going to be poured and there you are walking across an entire house, chatting in front of the camera and then casually pouring it. Surely you must have used a little extra water? Maybe even refrigerated/chilled water.
Great video. One thing I’ll say is Ardex buckets are a must when I mix SLU. They’re a 6 gallon bucket so you have enough room to mix a full and not spill any.
Thanks for being so detailed, I've learned a ton , thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
I want to see that bathroom finished! Beautiful
Those little buckets are also the perfect circle for the toilet flange cut out template.
Thank you so much for your detailed video. I've learned so much from watching them and can do my bathroom with the upmost confidence because of you.
Love your work man. I learn A lot form watching your channel .thank you
Ok, those bucket savers are just awesome, do need to get a couple, & glad did a vid about them as never wouldn’t known they existed.😀
Wow...that shtuff flowed out great.
Greetings from Australia !
Good video but you should double check on the primer dilution. I just used this a week ago and over plywood you are supposed to use it undiluted.
Good job, buy yourself a dewalt 54v mixer and mix in the room it has a speed control wheel so it doesnt fly everywhere and i use mine on every job saves setting up tripping hazards and it can be stood upside down after mix so don't have to lean on wall - i also cut all my plastics with 54v grinder with metal cutting disc - it cuts copper quick and any plastic cladding like a dream
I always find that when mixing either floor tile adhesive or self levelling compound, it's easier putting half the bag in and mixing and then putting the remain remaining bag in also the mix. Makes more consistent and never has any lumps.
Self leveling compound is different I got clumps by doing half and then the rest
@@erichermann7553 get someone to pour the bag in while you mix. Pour it in gradually. I prefer ultra tile self levelling compound 2 part. Has the tub of white milky activator with it. The ones where you use water are shit.
Did carrying those buckets remind you of "hell week"?
That was a long run with those buckets. Good workout
For the left over in the bucket saver. Put 3 1.5in dowels in it and make a stole. Concrete bucket stool.
That's one hell of a long walk with those heavy buckets! I wish I saw this video before installing my pan. Got it mortared in only to discover running away from the drain when I water tested. I thought the subfloor was level but I learned the hard way that just being a little bit off is huge for water. Now I have to rip up pan and do this before installing a new one. Expensive lesson learned. Do you have a video for pan removal? LOL.
Awhile ago (years now), my tile Contractor called this kind of lath "Rattlesnake lathe" because when you cut it, it always wants to bite you. Good old Todd (who was the same age as me!).
I've been viewing many of your videos. Very enjoyable. I'm still trying to understand the process. I started with stud pack, and now your productions. Self leveling cement seems pointless when sloping is a goal.
You need a level base for the pre-fabricated, sloped shower tray.
Appreciate your videos I’ll pick up a lot of extra tips just want to say thank you
Good job tile coach
Your videos are a game changer. Thank you for sharing!
9:56 Nothing like carrying two 5 gallon buckets a mile to the bathroom, lol.
Also, I like using Huber zip flashing tape to put down on the subfloor instead of duck tape, do need there J-roller w/ that “Z” to press it down, but know when done get a good seal (bond) for “joining the sheets of plywood”. Is more expensive than duck tape, but do like it better as no water proof and at times duck tape just get “icky”. But everyone does things differently 😊
As for foam, like the gray, as also keeps out pests/rodents and they won’t eat the stuff either when sealing off holes/gaps….but either way works👍🏻
Nice vid and glad to “see ya”.
Have a good one✌🏻
Great video man, thanks for sharing.
Great video thank you, How do you fill in the gap after you remove the foam for the shower pan drain
The Level quick works great, but it will find any small holes to escape! Make sure there's no place for it to escape.
Old school practice is to use tar paper under the wire lathe to prevent leaks. Thanks for sharing!
Prevent leaks lol
Hell Isaac, this is a big help. I am installing a shower (Schluter system) in a new location, I have full access under the house for plumbing. The floor is off a little so I will use this technique to level the area. My question is: can I wait to cut the drain opening until after I use the leveler as long as I have cut away the metal lath in the drain area before I pour? I have never drilled through cured leveler with a hole saw. Thank you.
Yep
This was a great and very informative video. Just one question: What is the purpose of the metal lath under the leveling compound? Thanks in advance.
Wish you were in VA - I would hire you for my bath remodel.
The duct tape is genius
Great tips! Can I use a self-leveler after kerdi boards, kerdi curb, and a kerdi bench are already installed? Just where my shower pan will be?
Why would you need to find the high and low spots if the level concrete is just going to level itself out with a little bit of trowel help?
Thanks, Coach!
Got it up the stairs even with the knee pad on the ankle👍
I use my jackhammer and put it in the four corners after pouring the material, Gravity does the rest ,cheers
all is good and interesting. However poring a thin concrete slab ober a wood foundation is prom to crack. So, do you have any idea how long this foundation for the shower pan wouls last? 10 years, 15, 20? I like to try the same thing in my 2 flor bath however this is the question I asking muself. Thank you for your responce.
doesn't matter if it cracks. its job is to be level. cracks won't transmit though the foam pan. the lathe makes it even stronger.
It could possibly crack; but wheres it gonna go ? It's trapped under the pan, and it should stay level (thinset is atop of it too).
It's just providing a level base for the foam shower pan, which will be adhered to it with thinset like one big tile.. Some hairline cracks won't matter. But, any major deflection of the wood will be a problem for the shower floor tile.
Work smart, not hard. Should have set up a mixing station close to your shower. Set up a dust collection system while mixing.
In my opinion, the foam shower pans are two soft for small tile.
Now were like concrete guys? When did that happen for self levelers?
We love us too Isaac !!
Does floor leveler not need an expansion joint around the perimeter? Thanks a bunch for all the great info.
Also, when should you use an uncoupling membrane? Can the plywood flex, cracking the self leveler, and compromising the tile? Thanks again.
Thanks Tile Coach
Good video friend I have a question where I can buy the bucket saver
Your videos are great. Why no tar paper?
Seeing you carry those buckets the same way I do makes me feel less weak. There is no freakin good way to carry buckets lol
You forgot to mention that when you have a couple flights of steps and a long walk with two buckets of self leveler you also get in a full body workout
No one said there was going to be a math test. I am going back to plumbing.
No need to put a water proof coating on the ply board as a protective layer against the level quick? My understanding is cement is not good for bare wood
I love watching your videos and helping share knowledge on all areas of construction. I have a question? In the previous video, I saw you using deck mud for tile. Is it possible to use cement and sand? The reason is that I live in Central America and we don't have such. So, is it possible to prepare cement, portland, with white sand and have the consistency of deck mud?
What’s that air filtration system you have. We need one!
Hello. this is A Lot information.. Can you do Step by step from the beginning for a conversion of a tub to a shower. thanks
Just curious why there is a dehumidifier in the bathroom and if it’s for high moisture why you are exhausting the air
Why the foam pan and not build a mud shower pan? I thought you prefer the mud pans?
Thanks for all the great videos.
I'm building a bathroom in my old house where I've completely rebuild my floor with 2×6 joints 12" on ceter and 1-1/8" plywood. The bathroom is over the basement.
On a plywood subfloor, what is your preferred method for highest quality? A hot-mop pan system or this new system?
I only want to do this once in my lifetime, so I wanna do it the best job that I can.
Thanks Isaac great info
can you add a link for your video on the same process on a concrete pad?
Thanks for the great video. I need to level my shower. It's maybe an eight out, Do you think its possible for me to scribe the schluter curb level, glue/thinset it down to the floor and use that to contain the LevelQuick?
Is there any shrinkage in the leveling compound?
no
Where do you get those bucket liners?
I was expecting that the stacked spacers would have been left in for the pour, as a guide to the where the leveler needs to rise to, just as a verification tool.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍👍
I'm going to be doing this on 3/4" OSB....level quick recommends Red guard on OSB prior to primer and lath...do you think that's really necessary? Any reason they'd want the Red guard down first?
Can you lay tile on that or what else needs to be done before laying it
Do you have any videos on your air scrubber set up? I’m in the market and interested to know your set up.
How would i fill in cement to make up a stand up shower where theres a square ft hole around the drain? There is a empty area of soil under the slab so filling in wouldnt work
Does the thinset then go on top of the self lever after it cures or is there a primer needed ?
Could you just vibrate the floor by stomping your feet or mechanically to assist self leveling?
great tips thanks
Quick question, NXT Level Plus is at Floor and Decor. Costs $45. Level Quick is $30 plus $18 for lath. Would it make sense to just use NXT and not go with the lath for roughly the same price?
Thanks, Isaac! Quick question: In this video you used lathe, though in another self leveler --> foam shower pan video you didn't. Why/why not use the lathe? I'm going big on a DIY master bath remodel up the road from you in Truckee, and your videos have been super helpful.
Great video! LInk for the bucket liners?
I was thinking the same thing.
bucketsaver.myshopify.com/discount/TILECOACH
@@TileCoach Glad I kept looking to find this. You'd have happier followers if you put this link in the video description! thanks
Where can i get the bucket liners