Sal your one of two people I follow for tile work who actually know what your doing tile coach is the other. Thank you for all you hard work on these videos
Your videos have caused my dad & I both to start planning our first bathroom tile projects. Both with their own challenges. He's a good bit more educated than myself as of now but with the amount of information you have avalable, there is no question that we will both succeed. Thanks!
Excellent video. I'm getting ready to put down 120 sq. ft. of porcelain floor tile over a plywood sub-floor in my kitchen. Thanks for all the good advice.
As always great content. Do not know what I enjoy most: the art of great prep work - or how skilled you are at using those knee pads. Lol. Mr DiBlasi I hope you never miss place them -breaking in a new pair must be a skill in itself. Your videos are a treasure for educating and promoting pride in a job well done. 👍
A contractor I know actually uses a paint roller to lay Ditra down. Saves your back, knees and time. Wets it with a spray bottle and then pours the thinset on the floor and rolls it out, then tapers the seams using the Ditra trowel
Tell that contractor that he is risking the failure of every floor he ever installed that way. Thinset mortar has a maximum water ratio that can be used before the mortar is rendered useless and will not have a strong bond. The size of the notched trowel is important to insure proper coverage and bond coat thickness. He will probably tell you he has never had a problem, don't believe it.
Im glad sal is showing the world how to tile. Alot of customers shit on contractors for not going fast or because its too expensive. Materials matter. Time matters. Tools matter. Tile guys need to plan ahead. Measure. Check the condition of the floor. Do repairs. Shucks , even do some framing and electrical work for a tile guy to get it done right the first time. You dont know what i have seen in showers and floors. We deal with rotten wood. Bad construction. Mold. Old plumbing and most of the time a cheap job because the customer does not want to pay. Heres my message for customers. FOR TILE. Warranty pays in the long run. If you want your tile for a short time... Theres cheap alternatives but it STILL COST MONEY. Overall for tile to stay impeccable for 20+ years...its not done on only tile and thinset. Theres more than just a tile guy. Theres framing. Pest control(termite. Wood ant. Etc). Plumbing. Sanitation. Moisture control/waterproofing. And the list goes on. Next time you want to save a buck for tile. remember: you might end up paying more.
Can install travertine on a manufactured home? Subfloor+ ditra+ travertine? Travertine Is to heavy for a manufactured home or modular home? Ditra is ok on subfloor? Or have to install one more layer of plywood? If need layer of plywood...? Do i need ditra after that?
Natural stone requires a much stronger floor than ceramic or porcelain tile. The subfloor must meet L/720 deflection and a second layer of plywood is required, then the uncoupling membrane.
@@SalDiBlasi 😅 sounds crazy but we need sone help again. 😅 my friend have a one layer of plywood! They have already the ditra. After installing the second layer of plywood DO WE NEED THE DITRA OR JUST CAN INSTALL OVER THE PLYWOOD? Also they have problems with the moister from the bottom crawlspace ... Do you think they can sandwich the underlayment 6mil plastic moister barrier? Subfloor + 6 mil plastic + plywood + travertine or ditra + travertine. First option is to do the 6mil under the crawlspace but just looking a cheating option.. 😅 If we install the second layer of plywood what direction we need to lay the plywood? Same as the first layer?
Great job and video. I am planning to install porcelain tiles on my bathroom floor. I took out the old tiles including the 5/8" plywood underlayment. The subfloor is made up of 1x8 floor boards so they are 3/4" thick. I plan to use Ditra as the joists are 16" OC. The floor boards have gaps from 1/4" to as much as a 1/2". A few spots are even larger than that. I was planning on installing 5/8" plywood sheeting (4-ply). Is this the right plywood type and thickness to go under the Ditra? Thanks.
Sal i leveled my plywood substrate with self leveling concrete and I now I am ready for Ditra what product do you recommend for the thin set? I will be installing penny tile. Thank you.
I think the purpose of the uncoupling membrane is to allow the floor the plywood to expand and contract the tile won't do that as much. Cell has another video about a guy named Steve with a million dollar house who had tile laid and it was a poor job I believe in their sal explains about expansion and contraction.
Hello, I have a question: I have a finished timber wood floor that’s half an inch thick. The floor is in good condition. Can I install Ditra on top, I would like to put porcelain tiles on top. I also found that under the wood floor there is no plywood, instead the subfloor is made of 3/4in by 6in wooden planks. If I need to remove the finished floor what thickness plywood should I use? The porcelain tiles i will install are 2 by 4 feet and thickness is 3/8 of an in. Which ditra thickness should I use? I really appreciate your videos and sorry for bothering with all these questions, I hope you can answer.
Not sure what you mean by Finished timber wood floor, but probably has to be removed. The subfloor wood planks are not a problem, install 1/2" Plywood according to subfloor installation methods for tile page 17 www.contractorsdirect.com/PDF/ditra-installation-handbook.pdf nd use method D-SP-TS-18 on page 7. Be sure that your floor meets deflection requirements for ceramic tile.
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal, Thank you so for much for the response. I have one final question: can I use the modified thin-set Exceeds ANSI 118 Versabond LFT underneath and on top of Ditra in order to install my porcelain 2 by 4 feet. I really appreciate your help.
@@maysamoreno4874 I have never been a fan of Custom Products, but according to them you can use it for uncoupling membranes. www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-119.pdf
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal, I have another question to ask you. After some thought, I wanted to ask you if the mortar layout I created will work for my ditra. I took your advice and installed 1/2 inch plywood. I am going to use the Large Format Floor and Wall Tile Mortar from Mapei under my ditra and over my ditra. Then I will install my 2x4 feet porcelain tiles. I wanted to ask you if this is the correct mortar to use under and over my ditra. If it is, how long do I have to wait until I can apply the grouting? If this is not a product you recommend, I was going to go with UltraFlex from Mapei to go under the Ditra, and Kerabond T or the uncoupling membrane mortar from Mapei to go OVER the ditra. Please I beg you help me with this. I hope you can help me from your experience. Thank you so much Sal!
Hey Sal, do you have any videos on how to install exterior terra-cotta tile on a stair landing? I tried looking myself, but I didn’t come across any that I viewed.
Would you recommend doing the longest part of the room which would be the length of the smallest part which would be the width in my case. Do it matter what the over lap is from the edge of the plywood?
This man is an amazing excellent professional. Think what you want but it is a fact i have witnessed many times that hardworkers with high work ethics on difficult work like this are never, ever originated from the dark continent where live gorillas and hyenas (yeah cannot even name them as we live under a tyrannical clique that denies reality).
My old tile in hallway and powder room was laid over 1/2 inch ply underlay over 5/8 ply subfloor, (2x8 joists 12' long, 16 O.C.) it was ok for 20 years, no cracks or bounce. In one area which will be done with hardwood I removed the tile & underlay and now notice the floor is weaker. So the underlay definitely made a difference. I'm debating on whether or not I even need the ditra, and if I use it, should I beef up the subfloor before using it. I am debating removing the underlay to replace it with something else vs just removing the mortar and re-tiling on the underlay that is existing. Either way its pretty labor intensive. also, if I need to re-tile in another twenty years, what is done about the ditra that is installed and stuck to the subfloor or underlay. Thanks for your videos.
Your floor structure does not meet L/360, so the tile should have never been installed on that floor in the first place. So you might say that the floor lasted 20 years, no problem. If the floor does not meet deflection requirements, that does not mean it will fail for sure, however id does increase the risk significantly the weaker the floor. th-cam.com/video/74BDTI67S1M/w-d-xo.html Not following minimum standards, TCNA and manufacturers recommendations does not guarantee failure, but following them does ensure success.
@@SalDiBlasi Apparently I was wrong about these, they are 12 O.C. and 10 foot span, I think that would make a significant difference. Either way, I don't want to do it twice so ill be beefing up the floor with something and then the ditra.
@@SalDiBlasi I meant when doing the shower curb, I’ve seen where they put a kerdi band between the shower curb bottom and the ditra on the bathroom floor. Is this step necessary or can I install ditra later after the shower is done and tiled?
@@ceeIoc You can if you want, but it is a good idea to do that although not required. You could just leave the tile under the crb until after you tile the floor, that is what I do.
You must use modified thinset on the plywood, and you can use it on the concrete. You can't however use unmodified to install the dita on plywpod. Then use unmodified to set the tile on the ditra.
So what happens should they get water damage and need to remove the existing tile? Will this membrane come up willingly or will you destroy the sub-floor in the process of removing it?
Are you expecting water damage? If so the system can easily be made watertight to eliminate that problem. Tile is a permanent finish, if you worry about removal, then use something else. You don't compromise the installation to make it easier to remove. Plenty of tools and methods to deal with rip outs when it is time.
Hello Sal. You're videos are extremely helpful. I'm preparing to install Schluter Ditra on OSB but I do not know what is meant by "tightly butted seams must be addressed". Would you please explain.
It is common practice for the carpenters to butt the seams of the OSB tight together, to slam them in tight so there is no gap. They are supposed to engage the tongue and groove without snugging them up. Advantech actually has it written on the edge of the sheets, to leave an 1/8" gap.
Thank you very much for this video! We are trying to install Ditra in our bathroom and i would greatly appreciate your advice on plywood underlayment. We have 3/4 plywood over 16 oc trusses and 1/4 underlayment on top of it. Can we install ditra on top of this underlayment (it is hardwood plywood)? Thank you!
Minimum thickness of plywood in any tile assembly is 3/8, the 1/4" has no structural value and will buckle when you apply the thinset and starts to dry and cure.
Thanks for another great video Sal! One question, when the Ditra is all laid down, should you wait a day to lay porcelain tile or can you just start right in on tiling? Trying to do this the right way and in no hurry. I'm using the Schluter All-set thinset for both the Ditra and tile on top of a plywood subfloor that's been cleaned up.
I have air pockets under the Ditra on wooden floor, I have leveled the subfloor but not perfect. Now I might have to cut the batch of sections out, that is suck!
@@torkdork69 Exactly! How the heck did that happen? While mixing the thinset? Too dry a thinset when applying Ditra? Not moisten plywood before thinset? Not troweled correctly? Did not put enough pressure on Ditra with wooden trowel? Did I forget anything? I would like to know the same as I am installing soon.
@@61spindrift most likely the latter of the questions and a mix of the floor having a dip in it. Proper trowel and mix with good added pressure to collapse 90% of ridged should suffice for decades.
Improper troweling. With thinset or mortar for tile you want the grooves to all be going the same direction, no swirling. That way as you bed in the air has a place to go and not be trapped.
@@61spindrift at 11:10 you can see the swirling in the thin set, that is ok for glue, but not bedding tile. You can kind of get away with it with small format tile, but never with large. Straight lines in tile.
I don't see you using kirty band Between the different pieces. When would kirty band be necessary I'm guessing between a tub andThe schluter. Anywhere else
I love your videos. I've just completely gutted my 13x12 master bathroom. I've ripped up the 1/2" plywood underlayment down to the 5/8" plywood sub floor. I was planning on adding new 1/2" plywood underlayment back down once all the plumbing was moved. Should I just go over the subfloor with the Ditra Heat or add the underlayment? Ty
In most cases you can go over the sub floor if it is all tongue and grove or blocked, if you are not installing a natural stone tile and if it meets L/360.
Hello Sal. I've installed some ditra over concrete and after the fact noticed a low spot. Can I put some sort of leveling compound on top of the ditra before placing tile down? Thanks
Rob Ryan If you fill the waffles and let it dry you can use modified if you like, but if you do not let it dry and tile as you go it must be unmodified. You can also fill with unmodified, do not use modified to set the tile. So to avoid buying two kinds of thinset just stick to the unmodified.
Depends on the type of ditra, " For DITRA use a 1/4" x 3/16" (6 mm x 5 mm) V-notched trowel, 5/16" x 5/16" (8 mm x 8 mm) V-notched trowel, or the DITRA trowel which features a 11/64" x 11/64" (4.5 mm x 4.5 mm) square-notched design. For DITRA-XL use a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm) square-notched trowel or the DITRA-XL trowel, which features a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm) square-notched design." Page 18 of the ditra handbook sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h66/h6e/8917114126366/DITRA%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
Hi Sal, Recently came across your videos and very informative and detailed. We will be installing tile on a second floor that's about 1200 sqft. Is Ditra suppose to be more durable and long lasting than backerboard? Can this be installed all throughout the home including kitchen and restrooms? Does Ditra also help with soundproofing the floors? Thank you!
Let me just say that Ditra is much better than Backer board, if you want sound control, then use Ditra TB now called Duo, however works only on a concrete floor, wood subfloors will not see any real benefit.
You need to contact your schluter rep to get an ok on a case to case basis. Most times they will give you specific instructions on how to proceed if they approve it.
Sal - I just pulled up old tile in my bathroom that was laid over a cement board underlayment over OSB. I use a rotary hammer and chisel to pull it all up but there is still a thin smooth layer of thin set over the OSB in most places. I found that chiseling down to the OSB was tearing up the board. Can I lay Ditra over old thin set? Thanks for your videos.
You have few options, most common are to grind it down with a cup grinder, which is pretty quick, or if it is really stuck and you are sure it will not be a bond inhibitor, clean it up and go over it with new mortar as you set your ditra.
@@SalDiBlasi So what did you do and is it holding up a year later? I would have thought you could just go over with thinset but definitely use a boding agent or primer first.
sparkyth67 There is a method to install Ditra on a linoleum floor, which is to use a quick set modified thinset to install the ditra, but there are a lot of restrictions, limitations and things that have to be checked before you do it. My advise to you is to remove the vinyl and go back to the substrate. The chances of it failing are too great in my opinion. If the vinyl is a tile, I would not even consider it at all.
***** thanks for the quick response I am going to put down plywood over the subloor anyway in order to raise it up some as well as cover up the osb I don't care what anyone says osb is not as good as plywood maybe I could go over the vinyl floor with that then put down the ditra
Minimum thickness of plywood is 3/8" , make sure that the vinyl is only one layer, that it is not a cushion backed vinyl, that it is well adhered to the substrate, that it is not just a perimeter glue down, but best practice is to remove it.
***** yes I have 3/4 inch osb with glued down vinyl tiles I was going to plan on 3/8 inch Plywood but was thinking about putting down some floor leveling compound first before I installed the plywood
sparkyth67 I would first install the plywood, then do the leveling and then ditra as the last layer, you don't want to nail through the leveling compound and break it up.
Main benefit to doing that would be the ability to pop chalk lines for the layout. Trying to mark/pop lines on Ditra is next to impossible be it's basically plastic..
@@joefowler3106 If you aren't taping and making it perfectly waterproof (I am only doing that by the tub), you can just nail/screw down a ledger board to start your tile out properly down a line in the middle of the room. Remove it when that row is done and just tile off of that. Or use a laser with marks on the wall/floor somewhere perhaps?
Dear Sal, wonderful video, very informative! I do not see you however, describing the requirements for the sub-floor, this would be a great addition to this educational video. I am planning to install ditra in our bathroom and am searching for answers about sub-floor specifics. Would greatly appreciate your advice. I am going to install 3/8 plywood underlayment (to match old floor height) on top of the existing 3/4 sub-floor (per ditra instructions) and the only 3/8 i see in stores around me is pine plywood or yellow pine plywood. I am not sure, is this type of softwood appropriate for the ditra underlayment? Could you please share your experiences? Thank you.
@@SalDiBlasi Thank you, Sal, appreciate your reply. I watched the video and read the installation instruction from Ditra but cannot find the answer to my question on whether pine plywood is a good underlayment for ditra. I even called Schluter but the lady on the phone could not give a definite answer because it was not specified in their instructions. Would appreciate you advice based on your many years of experience in this field. Thank you.
Hi Sal ! Can you help me to find the right mortar please, I live in Canada and I dont know witch one to choose. We have Home Depot, Rona (it's like Lowes). My job is: I do have one layer of 5/8 plywood glue and screw, I will install 24'' X 48'' large format tile. I will use Ditra (not heating). So I'm looking for a brench of mortar for underneet the Ditra and over the Ditra after. Good video !
Not sure if the standards for mortar are the same in Canada, to install the ditra to the plywood look for a mortar that meets or exceeds ANSI A118.11 This would include thinsets like Mapei Ultraflex 2, Laticrete 235 gold, ardex x5, or Schluter AllSet. To install the tile on the ditra, Schluter AllSet, (yes modified mortar) Schluter says to use an unmodified mortar if you do not use their brand of mortar, The standard is A118.1 This would include Mapei Kerabond, Laticrete 317 or 272, Tec uncoupling membrane Mortar, However that is not to say a modified mortar will not work, but it will not preserve the warranty if you decide to use a modified mortar to set your tile on ditra. There have been some developments with thinset in the past few years that has made solved the problem of using modified mortar on ditra, but you have to know which modified mortar can be used.
There is a store who sale Mapei Keraflex plus, the men told me I can use that for plywood and Ditra, and even on top of the Ditra with large tile 2' X 4'. What do you think about it ? Is it good ? Its 29.99$ a bag. Thanks again Sal.
Sal Diblasi: Hi Sal, I need your comment ont that: There is my floor layout: Joist 16'-8'' and 17' at 16'' center with 5/8 plywood tong and groove glue and screew. For the deflexion of the joist the place I bought the joist said L648, L699,L745. I need to tell you than I will have an island of 73'' X 84'' with granit counter top on top of my 24'' X 48'' tile. Do you think my joist are enought strong for not cracking my tile ? Deflexion is ok for the lenght of the joist? Would you add a second layer of plywood on top of my 5/8, maybee 1/2 or an other 5/8 plywood? Thanks for helping me, by the way you are a good teacher !
@@stevebeaulieu2617 For the deflection plug your numbers in here www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl you did not specify the unsupported span. As far as the thinset goes it is Exceeds ANSI A118.4HTE and A118.11 requirements and is suitable for plywood, Can you install your tile on Ditra with it, sure, but you will void the schluter warranty, to maintain the warranty you can use Schluter AllSet if you want modified mortar, or any brand of unmodified mortar.
Sal, thx for answering all my questions sir, here's one more for you. I want to put mosaic tiles on my stair risers. I wanted to use cement board, but the bottom riser is rounded on one side. Can I use ditra on the risers instead of the cement board?
+fencerider Ditra is really for floors, but i have used it to build out the wall for a mosaic boarder. This would be a better way to go www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Building-Panels/KERDI-BOARD-Panels/Schluter%C2%AE-KERDI-BOARD-V/p/KERDI_BOARD-V but you probably don't want to buy a whole sheet for that small area.
Thank you Sal. For years I've used Blanke Permat in place of "another" sheet of 3/4" plywood wasn't possible. I was told that Permat is the only uncoupling membrane that actually replaces wood substrate for structural integrity. It isn't waterproof but perfect when height transitions are important. Tile need one & 1/8" of "structural" substrate (Arch. Standards) If you only have 3/4" do you feel confident using Ditra over that?
If the joist structure is correct, the subfloor is correct, without a doubt, bullet proof. I have used Ditra for thousands upon thousands of feet of tile for more than a decade, never one cracked tile, never a problem. Completely confident. If you are talking about natural stone where the deflection needs to be half that of a ceramic tile, then you need a second layer of plywood to meet the L/720. Permat says that you can just go over a single layer of plywood with it and install your stone, do you feel comfortable doing that? I know the answer. The 1 and 1/8 you are referring to is if you are going to use plywood as your underlayment for your ceramic tile, then yes you need that thickness. Just check your TCNA handbook. Just in case you need some help looking for them, 2017 TCNA Handbook page 172 Method F148-17 for uncoupling membrane max joist spacing 19.2", 2017 TCNA Handbook, page 158 Method F150-17 for plywood underlayment max joist spacing 16". However I could not find Permat in the Handbook, I guess it is not approved by the TCNA. Don't get me wrong, I know it is a great product and works as you described, just wanted you do be sure that I am relying on accepted standards for the things I do.
Hi Sal , Thank you for share this great video. However I am really frustrated and despaired for this product recently . The reason why is " I Cant effort ALL SET Mortar , it is so expensive just for that small bag. Other than that, I Could not find any of other brand who makes Mid -Bed UNMODIFIED THINSET for install size of 18"x36" larger format tile. I mean , we use to use ANSI 118.15 T OR FOR Install that size of the tile . But it is polymer modified . If I used it , it will be out of Schulter warranty . NEED help ! Sal, would you recommend any sag-resistant UNMODIFIED Mortar .?? Thank you
To keep the warranty, you can use any brand Premium Unmodified dry set mortar A118.1. Schluter Set, Bostik Ditraset, laticrete 317 or 272, Tec uncoupling membrane mortar, Mapei Kerabond. I pretty much always use unmodified mortar to set my tiles on Schluter products, usually the "Set"
I can, where I shop for all my tile needs www.galleriastone.com/Showrooms/Smethurst-Tile/ The Malden store is where I usually go, tell them I sent you.
@@SalDiBlasi oh, ok, thanks. i thought it had to do with the ability of the mortar to dry. but it must be whether any movement of the base is possible.
Hi Sal, great vids , I really learn a lot. I am gutting the kitchen, installing 3/4 in plywood to sub floor, should I install one layer of plywood or two, as long as I don’t over extend height to include tile?
You need to determine the floor deflection, Needs to be L/360 or better for porcelain tile, and no need for the second layer of plywood. On the other hand, for natural stone, you need L/720 and also the second layer of plywood.
Sal, I am currently tiling a small restroom which the floor is concrete slab. Any benefit of using Schluter Ditra installed over concrete slab? Thanks!
I trust Sal on anything he says however, I am not sure he understood what you were doing. I believe hardy backer is a great substrate for Ditra. And I am thinking that unmodified would be the product. Just guessing, anyone know for sure reading this?
I have a question, what do you think of about metal lath used on shower walls and shower floor as well as the bathroom floor? I seen videos of people using metal lath then using some type of scratch and brown coat to level walls and floors.
Sal DiBlasi oh ok. I see what u saying. I see y he difference. I had to Google the difference between. Yes. I seen on videos people just do a thin coat of mud over the path. Just enough to cover it. So the old school mud job is old but still used today?
Jersey Mud job which is a wire lath with a thin coat of thinset is crap, and not an approved method. Tar paper wire lath with a thick coat of Deck mud is referred to as a mud job and an old school method that is usually not used in this day and age due to the weight, labor, thickness and difficulty among other reasons.
Hi sal great videos! I'm installing wood plank tile 36" or 48" over a hydronic radiant heated panel floor which is aluminum, would you suggest adding ditra (what adhesive?) or use CBU? Thanks!
+Denise U CBU might be a pfoblem becsuse you need to penetreta into the floor you are covering, ditra would be a better choice, but i would contact Schluter tec support to get their recommendations.
May God continue to bless this man's knees.....love u Sal!
Knees are good, shoulders not so much.
this is one of the best how to videos I've seen on this topic. well done man and I appreciate the time you took to make this.
The best thing i learned is to take the straps off of you knee pads.
Who are all the losers with unlikes lol
Contractors who will be loosing jobs lol
Thanks for taking the time to make this. About to use Ditra for the first time and you explained it very well.
Sal your one of two people I follow for tile work who actually know what your doing tile coach is the other. Thank you for all you hard work on these videos
I appreciate that!
Your videos have caused my dad & I both to start planning our first bathroom tile projects. Both with their own challenges. He's a good bit more educated than myself as of now but with the amount of information you have avalable, there is no question that we will both succeed.
Thanks!
Thanks, glad it helped
You are my DIY Hero when it comes to my bathroom remodel.
Excellent video. I'm getting ready to put down 120 sq. ft. of porcelain floor tile over a plywood sub-floor in my kitchen. Thanks for all the good advice.
👍
Thanks, this is a great video. I'm going to tile my hallway and am researching quite a bit as a diy'er
Thank you Sal. I appreciate you taking the time to do this video.
My pleasure!
Craftsman and great attention to detail, nice video!
Hi Sal,
Just wanted to say thank you for posting super-helpful videos and sharing your considerable experience with us!
You are so welcome!
I'm glad I found your video on Ditra. I really love the way you put the videos together.
Glad you enjoy it!
As always great content. Do not know what I enjoy most: the art of great prep work - or how skilled you are at using those knee pads. Lol. Mr DiBlasi I hope you never miss place them -breaking in a new pair must be a skill in itself.
Your videos are a treasure for educating and promoting pride in a job well done. 👍
👍😊
Pleasure to watch a pro at work
Me too! I did not realize that there was anything else besides hardy backer.. this video was fabulous! Thank you!!
Lots of options available, besides cement board.
A contractor I know actually uses a paint roller to lay Ditra down. Saves your back, knees and time. Wets it with a spray bottle and then pours the thinset on the floor and rolls it out, then tapers the seams using the Ditra trowel
Tell that contractor that he is risking the failure of every floor he ever installed that way. Thinset mortar has a maximum water ratio that can be used before the mortar is rendered useless and will not have a strong bond. The size of the notched trowel is important to insure proper coverage and bond coat thickness. He will probably tell you he has never had a problem, don't believe it.
Excellent presentation Sal!
Glad you enjoyed it
Im glad sal is showing the world how to tile. Alot of customers shit on contractors for not going fast or because its too expensive. Materials matter. Time matters. Tools matter. Tile guys need to plan ahead. Measure. Check the condition of the floor. Do repairs. Shucks , even do some framing and electrical work for a tile guy to get it done right the first time. You dont know what i have seen in showers and floors. We deal with rotten wood. Bad construction. Mold. Old plumbing and most of the time a cheap job because the customer does not want to pay.
Heres my message for customers. FOR TILE. Warranty pays in the long run. If you want your tile for a short time... Theres cheap alternatives but it STILL COST MONEY. Overall for tile to stay impeccable for 20+ years...its not done on only tile and thinset. Theres more than just a tile guy. Theres framing. Pest control(termite. Wood ant. Etc). Plumbing. Sanitation. Moisture control/waterproofing. And the list goes on. Next time you want to save a buck for tile. remember: you might end up paying more.
Sal DiBee, you are the Man !! Great vid. Thank you very much !
Wow you made it look easy and I kinda did it a backwards way but your method looks much easier
Glad it helped
Thank you for you time and heart , to sharing knowledge , much much appreciated 🙏
My pleasure!
this guy is awesome
Thank you for this tutorial.
You are welcome!
Can install travertine on a manufactured home?
Subfloor+ ditra+ travertine?
Travertine Is to heavy for a manufactured home or modular home?
Ditra is ok on subfloor? Or have to install one more layer of plywood?
If need layer of plywood...? Do i need ditra after that?
Natural stone requires a much stronger floor than ceramic or porcelain tile. The subfloor must meet L/720 deflection and a second layer of plywood is required, then the uncoupling membrane.
@@SalDiBlasi thanks for your help!
👍
@@SalDiBlasi
😅 sounds crazy but we need sone help again.
😅 my friend have a one layer of plywood! They have already the ditra.
After installing the second layer of plywood DO WE NEED THE DITRA OR JUST CAN INSTALL OVER THE PLYWOOD?
Also they have problems with the moister from the bottom crawlspace ...
Do you think they can sandwich the underlayment 6mil plastic moister barrier?
Subfloor + 6 mil plastic + plywood + travertine or ditra + travertine.
First option is to do the 6mil under the crawlspace but just looking a cheating option.. 😅
If we install the second layer of plywood what direction we need to lay the plywood? Same as the first layer?
Thanks for the completeness. I mixed too thick and then laid down way too thick. I wish I'd watched this first.
Thanks, glad it helped
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.. Great video..
Mixing the thinset wet is critical for this application.
So to clarify flexible adhesive to lay the ditra and standard adhesive to lay tiles? Great video.
Great job and video. I am planning to install porcelain tiles on my bathroom floor. I took out the old tiles including the 5/8" plywood underlayment. The subfloor is made up of 1x8 floor boards so they are 3/4" thick. I plan to use Ditra as the joists are 16" OC. The floor boards have gaps from 1/4" to as much as a 1/2". A few spots are even larger than that. I was planning on installing 5/8" plywood sheeting (4-ply). Is this the right plywood type and thickness to go under the Ditra? Thanks.
On a tear out Sal do you have to replace the subfloor?
Sal, what do you use on the plywood joints to fill any gaps before installing ditra?
I just want to do a small powder room, what am I gonna do with 50 feet of this stuff?
On a wood floor, what about a self leveling compound? then Ditra...then tile? Or do you just use a mud bed always?
That is exactly what I want to know...
Did you ever find out the answer to this great question?
What do u do when the floor is not completely flat?
learned a lot from you. Thanks for all your hard work.
My pleasure!
Sal i leveled my plywood substrate with self leveling concrete and I now I am ready for Ditra what product do you recommend for the thin set? I will be installing penny tile. Thank you.
Do you leave a gap against edge of room ? I'm laying some tomorrow.
I think the purpose of the uncoupling membrane is to allow the floor the plywood to expand and contract the tile won't do that as much. Cell has another video about a guy named Steve with a million dollar house who had tile laid and it was a poor job I believe in their sal explains about expansion and contraction.
Hello, I have a question: I have a finished timber wood floor that’s half an inch thick. The floor is in good condition. Can I install Ditra on top, I would like to put porcelain tiles on top.
I also found that under the wood floor there is no plywood, instead the subfloor is made of 3/4in by 6in wooden planks. If I need to remove the finished floor what thickness plywood should I use?
The porcelain tiles i will install are 2 by 4 feet and thickness is 3/8 of an in. Which ditra thickness should I use?
I really appreciate your videos and sorry for bothering with all these questions, I hope you can answer.
Not sure what you mean by Finished timber wood floor, but probably has to be removed. The subfloor wood planks are not a problem, install 1/2" Plywood according to subfloor installation methods for tile page 17 www.contractorsdirect.com/PDF/ditra-installation-handbook.pdf nd use method D-SP-TS-18 on page 7. Be sure that your floor meets deflection requirements for ceramic tile.
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal,
Thank you so for much for the response. I have one final question: can I use the modified thin-set Exceeds ANSI 118 Versabond LFT underneath and on top of Ditra in order to install my porcelain 2 by 4 feet. I really appreciate your help.
@@maysamoreno4874 I have never been a fan of Custom Products, but according to them you can use it for uncoupling membranes. www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-119.pdf
@@SalDiBlasi ok thank you once again and happy Easter
@@SalDiBlasi Dear Sal, I have another question to ask you. After some thought, I wanted to ask you if the mortar layout I created will work for my ditra.
I took your advice and installed 1/2 inch plywood. I am going to use the Large Format Floor and Wall Tile Mortar from Mapei under my ditra and over my ditra. Then I will install my 2x4 feet porcelain tiles. I wanted to ask you if this is the correct mortar to use under and over my ditra. If it is, how long do I have to wait until I can apply the grouting?
If this is not a product you recommend, I was going to go with UltraFlex from Mapei to go under the Ditra, and Kerabond T or the uncoupling membrane mortar from Mapei to go OVER the ditra.
Please I beg you help me with this. I hope you can help me from your experience. Thank you so much Sal!
Hey Sal, do you have any videos on how to install exterior terra-cotta tile on a stair landing? I tried looking myself, but I didn’t come across any that I viewed.
I don't do outside tile work, to risky in my area.
Would you recommend doing the longest part of the room which would be the length of the smallest part which would be the width in my case. Do it matter what the over lap is from the edge of the plywood?
Thanks for posting. Lots of great info.
Hi - Is it OK to backbutter the matting?
How thick is the Ditra with thinset after cementing it down? Curious if its worth doing this or just screwing down a 1/4" piece of cement board.
What van I use to level out the floor before installing the ditra?
Hi, would it work if I use it over a wood parquet floor? Would remove barnish first.
Thanks for advice
No, Parquet has to go. No ifs ands or buts.
thanks ;)
This man is an amazing excellent professional. Think what you want but it is a fact i have witnessed many times that hardworkers with high work ethics on difficult work like this are never, ever originated from the dark continent where live gorillas and hyenas (yeah cannot even name them as we live under a tyrannical clique that denies reality).
Sal,
Can I use the Schluter All-Set thin set to apply both the ditra membrane and the tile over the ditra
By the way, this job will be over a plywood subfloor
Yes
Thanks for the video.
My old tile in hallway and powder room was laid over 1/2 inch ply underlay over 5/8 ply subfloor, (2x8 joists 12' long, 16 O.C.) it was ok for 20 years, no cracks or bounce. In one area which will be done with hardwood I removed the tile & underlay and now notice the floor is weaker. So the underlay definitely made a difference. I'm debating on whether or not I even need the ditra, and if I use it, should I beef up the subfloor before using it. I am debating removing the underlay to replace it with something else vs just removing the mortar and re-tiling on the underlay that is existing. Either way its pretty labor intensive. also, if I need to re-tile in another twenty years, what is done about the ditra that is installed and stuck to the subfloor or underlay.
Thanks for your videos.
Your floor structure does not meet L/360, so the tile should have never been installed on that floor in the first place. So you might say that the floor lasted 20 years, no problem. If the floor does not meet deflection requirements, that does not mean it will fail for sure, however id does increase the risk significantly the weaker the floor. th-cam.com/video/74BDTI67S1M/w-d-xo.html
Not following minimum standards, TCNA and manufacturers recommendations does not guarantee failure, but following them does ensure success.
@@SalDiBlasi
Apparently I was wrong about these, they are 12 O.C. and 10 foot span, I think that would make a significant difference. Either way, I don't want to do it twice so ill be beefing up the floor with something and then the ditra.
@@Mrdubomb At that joist structure you more than meet deflection requirements.
Hi, only the 11/64 trowel works, or can I use something else?
If I’m building a walk in shower in addition to tiling the floors, should I install ditra before tiling the shower curb?
Not enough info to answer that question.
@@SalDiBlasi I meant when doing the shower curb, I’ve seen where they put a kerdi band between the shower curb bottom and the ditra on the bathroom floor. Is this step necessary or can I install ditra later after the shower is done and tiled?
@@ceeIoc You can if you want, but it is a good idea to do that although not required. You could just leave the tile under the crb until after you tile the floor, that is what I do.
@@SalDiBlasi ok thanks!!
Awesome know I understand thanks for sharing the Ditra effect.
Hi,great vidoes and very infomative. My floor is 75% wood flooring and the rest is a solid concrete. Do i need to use 2 different adhesives for this?
You must use modified thinset on the plywood, and you can use it on the concrete. You can't however use unmodified to install the dita on plywpod. Then use unmodified to set the tile on the ditra.
Sal: my floor is uneven by 5/8 from the high to low side. what should i do before laying the ditra down?
Would you use Ditra under a mortar shower base?
here is how to do a shower mud base th-cam.com/video/XqUlGhK9Kys/w-d-xo.html
Will I still have to worry about any low spots?
So what happens should they get water damage and need to remove the existing tile? Will this membrane come up willingly or will you destroy the sub-floor in the process of removing it?
Are you expecting water damage? If so the system can easily be made watertight to eliminate that problem. Tile is a permanent finish, if you worry about removal, then use something else. You don't compromise the installation to make it easier to remove. Plenty of tools and methods to deal with rip outs when it is time.
Dear Sal, does orientation of Ditra sheets matter? Parallel or perpendicular to the tub? Or certain orientation with regards to joists? Thank you!
No
Hello Sal. You're videos are extremely helpful. I'm preparing to install Schluter Ditra on OSB but I do not know what is meant by "tightly butted seams must be addressed". Would you please explain.
It is common practice for the carpenters to butt the seams of the OSB tight together, to slam them in tight so there is no gap. They are supposed to engage the tongue and groove without snugging them up. Advantech actually has it written on the edge of the sheets, to leave an 1/8" gap.
Any alternative for Ditra trowel? Can I use 1/8 or 1/4x 3/8 trowel ?
Thank you very much for this video! We are trying to install Ditra in our bathroom and i would greatly appreciate your advice on plywood underlayment. We have 3/4 plywood over 16 oc trusses and 1/4 underlayment on top of it. Can we install ditra on top of this underlayment (it is hardwood plywood)? Thank you!
The 1/4" has to come out.
Thank you so much for your quick reply. What is the reason 1/4 has to go? What would happen if we install it on 1/4. Appreciate your feedback!
Minimum thickness of plywood in any tile assembly is 3/8, the 1/4" has no structural value and will buckle when you apply the thinset and starts to dry and cure.
Thanks for another great video Sal! One question, when the Ditra is all laid down, should you wait a day to lay porcelain tile or can you just start right in on tiling? Trying to do this the right way and in no hurry. I'm using the Schluter All-set thinset for both the Ditra and tile on top of a plywood subfloor that's been cleaned up.
You can start tiling right away, but I prefer to wait until the next day.
Sal, Can Ditra be used on the shower sub floor before the motor pan is packed? Thanks.
Hey Sal, can't you use LFT mortar to install tile over Ditra?
I have air pockets under the Ditra on wooden floor, I have leveled the subfloor but not perfect. Now I might have to cut the batch of sections out, that is suck!
How do you suppose that happened ? A bit of a bummer but not too hard to cut out and redo the sections. How did it go?
@@torkdork69 Exactly! How the heck did that happen? While mixing the thinset? Too dry a thinset when applying Ditra? Not moisten plywood before thinset? Not troweled correctly? Did not put enough pressure on Ditra with wooden trowel? Did I forget anything? I would like to know the same as I am installing soon.
@@61spindrift most likely the latter of the questions and a mix of the floor having a dip in it. Proper trowel and mix with good added pressure to collapse 90% of ridged should suffice for decades.
Improper troweling. With thinset or mortar for tile you want the grooves to all be going the same direction, no swirling. That way as you bed in the air has a place to go and not be trapped.
@@61spindrift at 11:10 you can see the swirling in the thin set, that is ok for glue, but not bedding tile. You can kind of get away with it with small format tile, but never with large. Straight lines in tile.
Hey great video do you let it dry overnight before installation of new tile?
Don't have to, but preferable.
I don't see you using kirty band Between the different pieces. When would kirty band be necessary I'm guessing between a tub andThe schluter. Anywhere else
You only need the banding where you want waterproofing
I love your videos. I've just completely gutted my 13x12 master bathroom. I've ripped up the 1/2" plywood underlayment down to the 5/8" plywood sub floor. I was planning on adding new 1/2" plywood underlayment back down once all the plumbing was moved. Should I just go over the subfloor with the Ditra Heat or add the underlayment? Ty
In most cases you can go over the sub floor if it is all tongue and grove or blocked, if you are not installing a natural stone tile and if it meets L/360.
Hello Sal. I've installed some ditra over concrete and after the fact noticed a low spot. Can I put some sort of leveling compound on top of the ditra before placing tile down? Thanks
Derrick Gettinger The only thing that should be put over the ditra is unmodified thinset, so no leveling compound.
***** okay, thanks Sal!
Hi Sal. I just installed the Ditra and wanted to fill the waffles but wasn't sure what type of mortar to use. Can you advise? Thanks, Rob
Rob Ryan If you fill the waffles and let it dry you can use modified if you like, but if you do not let it dry and tile as you go it must be unmodified. You can also fill with unmodified, do not use modified to set the tile. So to avoid buying two kinds of thinset just stick to the unmodified.
I just had a quick question that I haven’t seen answered on the videos I’ve looked at how thick should the thinset be before laying the ditra over it?
Depends on the type of ditra, " For DITRA use a 1/4" x 3/16" (6 mm x 5 mm)
V-notched trowel, 5/16" x 5/16" (8 mm x 8 mm)
V-notched trowel, or the DITRA trowel which
features a 11/64" x 11/64" (4.5 mm x 4.5 mm)
square-notched design.
For DITRA-XL use a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm)
square-notched trowel or the DITRA-XL trowel,
which features a 1/4" x 1/4" (6 mm x 6 mm)
square-notched design." Page 18 of the ditra handbook sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h66/h6e/8917114126366/DITRA%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
Can you install over OSB? I see you have regular plywood.
Schluter considers OSB to be the same as Plywood. pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/4011832107092_install.pdf
Can you apply this dita membrane over existing tile? if so what’s the best way to do so ?
Thank you very much .
Hi Sal,
Recently came across your videos and very informative and detailed. We will be installing tile on a second floor that's about 1200 sqft.
Is Ditra suppose to be more durable and long lasting than backerboard? Can this be installed all throughout the home including kitchen and restrooms?
Does Ditra also help with soundproofing the floors?
Thank you!
Let me just say that Ditra is much better than Backer board, if you want sound control, then use Ditra TB now called Duo, however works only on a concrete floor, wood subfloors will not see any real benefit.
good
Can you install a infloor heating mat over top of Ditra before tiling?
No, either under, or use Ditra Heat.
Can you install this over the viega radiant floor system
You need to contact your schluter rep to get an ok on a case to case basis. Most times they will give you specific instructions on how to proceed if they approve it.
Sal - I just pulled up old tile in my bathroom that was laid over a cement board underlayment over OSB. I use a rotary hammer and chisel to pull it all up but there is still a thin smooth layer of thin set over the OSB in most places. I found that chiseling down to the OSB was tearing up the board. Can I lay Ditra over old thin set? Thanks for your videos.
You have few options, most common are to grind it down with a cup grinder, which is pretty quick, or if it is really stuck and you are sure it will not be a bond inhibitor, clean it up and go over it with new mortar as you set your ditra.
@@SalDiBlasi So what did you do and is it holding up a year later? I would have thought you could just go over with thinset but definitely use a boding agent or primer first.
love your videos, you have taught me a lot!
Thanks for the video it has been very informative but would it be ok to use this over vinyl flooring
sparkyth67 There is a method to install Ditra on a linoleum floor, which is to use a quick set modified thinset to install the ditra, but there are a lot of restrictions, limitations and things that have to be checked before you do it. My advise to you is to remove the vinyl and go back to the substrate. The chances of it failing are too great in my opinion. If the vinyl is a tile, I would not even consider it at all.
***** thanks for the quick response I am going to put down plywood over the subloor anyway in order to raise it up some as well as cover up the osb I don't care what anyone says osb is not as good as plywood maybe I could go over the vinyl floor with that then put down the ditra
Minimum thickness of plywood is 3/8" , make sure that the vinyl is only one layer, that it is not a cushion backed vinyl, that it is well adhered to the substrate, that it is not just a perimeter glue down, but best practice is to remove it.
***** yes I have 3/4 inch osb with glued down vinyl tiles I was going to plan on 3/8 inch Plywood but was thinking about putting down some floor leveling compound first before I installed the plywood
sparkyth67
I would first install the plywood, then do the leveling and then ditra as the last layer, you don't want to nail through the leveling compound and break it up.
Sal after installing the membrane to the floor I find it easier to also fill the waffles, then tile the next day. You find this to be helpful?
Jean Marino a lot of guys do that, I really don't see the need, seems like an extra step that is not needed.
Main benefit to doing that would be the ability to pop chalk lines for the layout. Trying to mark/pop lines on Ditra is next to impossible be it's basically plastic..
@@joefowler3106 If you aren't taping and making it perfectly waterproof (I am only doing that by the tub), you can just nail/screw down a ledger board to start your tile out properly down a line in the middle of the room. Remove it when that row is done and just tile off of that. Or use a laser with marks on the wall/floor somewhere perhaps?
Dear Sal, wonderful video, very informative! I do not see you however, describing the requirements for the sub-floor, this would be a great addition to this educational video. I am planning to install ditra in our bathroom and am searching for answers about sub-floor specifics. Would greatly appreciate your advice. I am going to install 3/8 plywood underlayment (to match old floor height) on top of the existing 3/4 sub-floor (per ditra instructions) and the only 3/8 i see in stores around me is pine plywood or yellow pine plywood. I am not sure, is this type of softwood appropriate for the ditra underlayment? Could you please share your experiences? Thank you.
This video th-cam.com/video/74BDTI67S1M/w-d-xo.html and page 18 in this PDF www.contractorsdirect.com/PDF/ditra-installation-handbook.pdf
@@SalDiBlasi Thank you, Sal, appreciate your reply. I watched the video and read the installation instruction from Ditra but cannot find the answer to my question on whether pine plywood is a good underlayment for ditra. I even called Schluter but the lady on the phone could not give a definite answer because it was not specified in their instructions. Would appreciate you advice based on your many years of experience in this field. Thank you.
@@russici That should be fine. Just make sure you are installing perpendicular to the pattern of the subfloor so it tightens the assembly.
Hi Sal ! Can you help me to find the right mortar please, I live in Canada and I dont know witch one to choose. We have Home Depot, Rona (it's like Lowes). My job is: I do have one layer of 5/8 plywood glue and screw, I will install 24'' X 48'' large format tile. I will use Ditra (not heating). So I'm looking for a brench of mortar for underneet the Ditra and over the Ditra after. Good video !
Not sure if the standards for mortar are the same in Canada, to install the ditra to the plywood look for a mortar that meets or exceeds ANSI A118.11 This would include thinsets like Mapei Ultraflex 2, Laticrete 235 gold, ardex x5, or Schluter AllSet. To install the tile on the ditra, Schluter AllSet, (yes modified mortar) Schluter says to use an unmodified mortar if you do not use their brand of mortar, The standard is A118.1 This would include Mapei Kerabond, Laticrete 317 or 272, Tec uncoupling membrane Mortar, However that is not to say a modified mortar will not work, but it will not preserve the warranty if you decide to use a modified mortar to set your tile on ditra. There have been some developments with thinset in the past few years that has made solved the problem of using modified mortar on ditra, but you have to know which modified mortar can be used.
There is a store who sale Mapei Keraflex plus, the men told me I can use that for plywood and Ditra, and even on top of the Ditra with large tile 2' X 4'. What do you think about it ? Is it good ? Its 29.99$ a bag. Thanks again Sal.
Sal Diblasi: Hi Sal, I need your comment ont that: There is my floor layout: Joist 16'-8'' and 17' at 16'' center with 5/8 plywood tong and groove glue and screew. For the deflexion of the joist the place I bought the joist said L648, L699,L745. I need to tell you than I will have an island of 73'' X 84'' with granit counter top on top of my 24'' X 48'' tile. Do you think my joist are enought strong for not cracking my tile ? Deflexion is ok for the lenght of the joist? Would you add a second layer of plywood on top of my 5/8, maybee 1/2 or an other 5/8 plywood? Thanks for helping me, by the way you are a good teacher !
@@stevebeaulieu2617 For the deflection plug your numbers in here www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl you did not specify the unsupported span. As far as the thinset goes it is Exceeds ANSI A118.4HTE and A118.11 requirements
and is suitable for plywood, Can you install your tile on Ditra with it, sure, but you will void the schluter warranty, to maintain the warranty you can use Schluter AllSet if you want modified mortar, or any brand of unmodified mortar.
Sal, thx for answering all my questions sir, here's one more for you. I want to put mosaic tiles on my stair risers. I wanted to use cement board, but the bottom riser is rounded on one side. Can I use ditra on the risers instead of the cement board?
+fencerider Ditra is really for floors, but i have used it to build out the wall for a mosaic boarder. This would be a better way to go www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Building-Panels/KERDI-BOARD-Panels/Schluter%C2%AE-KERDI-BOARD-V/p/KERDI_BOARD-V but you probably don't want to buy a whole sheet for that small area.
As always, thanks Sal.
Thank you Sal. For years I've used Blanke Permat in place of "another" sheet of 3/4" plywood wasn't possible. I was told that Permat is the only uncoupling membrane that actually replaces wood substrate for structural integrity. It isn't waterproof but perfect when height transitions are important. Tile need one & 1/8" of "structural" substrate (Arch. Standards) If you only have 3/4" do you feel confident using Ditra over that?
If the joist structure is correct, the subfloor is correct, without a doubt, bullet proof. I have used Ditra for thousands upon thousands of feet of tile for more than a decade, never one cracked tile, never a problem. Completely confident. If you are talking about natural stone where the deflection needs to be half that of a ceramic tile, then you need a second layer of plywood to meet the L/720. Permat says that you can just go over a single layer of plywood with it and install your stone, do you feel comfortable doing that? I know the answer. The 1 and 1/8 you are referring to is if you are going to use plywood as your underlayment for your ceramic tile, then yes you need that thickness. Just check your TCNA handbook. Just in case you need some help looking for them, 2017 TCNA Handbook page 172 Method F148-17 for uncoupling membrane max joist spacing 19.2", 2017 TCNA Handbook, page 158 Method F150-17 for plywood underlayment max joist spacing 16". However I could not find Permat in the Handbook, I guess it is not approved by the TCNA. Don't get me wrong, I know it is a great product and works as you described, just wanted you do be sure that I am relying on accepted standards for the things I do.
Hi Sal , Thank you for share this great video. However I am really frustrated and despaired for this product recently . The reason why is " I Cant effort ALL SET Mortar , it is so expensive just for that small bag. Other than that, I Could not find any of other brand who makes Mid -Bed UNMODIFIED THINSET for install size of 18"x36" larger format tile. I mean , we use to use ANSI 118.15 T OR FOR Install that size of the tile . But it is polymer modified . If I used it , it will be out of Schulter warranty . NEED help ! Sal, would you recommend any sag-resistant UNMODIFIED Mortar .??
Thank you
To keep the warranty, you can use any brand Premium Unmodified dry set mortar A118.1. Schluter Set, Bostik Ditraset, laticrete 317 or 272, Tec uncoupling membrane mortar, Mapei Kerabond. I pretty much always use unmodified mortar to set my tiles on Schluter products, usually the "Set"
hey Sal ... what are some good unmodified thinsets
Tec uncoupling membrane Mortar, Mapei Kerabond, Laticrete 317, Bostic Ditra-Set are a few
Great video sal. Can you recommend a tile shop in the Boston area?
I can, where I shop for all my tile needs www.galleriastone.com/Showrooms/Smethurst-Tile/ The Malden store is where I usually go, tell them I sent you.
What about the joint lines /seams of the ditra , does it have to be taped ?
no.
@@SalDiBlasi
Thanks sal.
I watch ur videos all the time. U taught me a lot
Do I use a polymer modified thin set?
th-cam.com/video/S80GVg4Y4MU/w-d-xo.html
to set the ditra, use modified mortar on bare plywood. if you kept the linolium thats there now, switch to unmodified?
Modified on anything but concrete
@@SalDiBlasi oh, ok, thanks. i thought it had to do with the ability of the mortar to dry. but it must be whether any movement of the base is possible.
Hi Sal, great vids , I really learn a lot. I am gutting the kitchen, installing 3/4 in plywood to sub floor, should I install one layer of plywood or two, as long as I don’t over extend height to include tile?
You need to determine the floor deflection, Needs to be L/360 or better for porcelain tile, and no need for the second layer of plywood. On the other hand, for natural stone, you need L/720 and also the second layer of plywood.
Sal, how do you keep the Kerdi Band from making the floor uneven? I notice that you don't put the Kerdi band on the Ditra seams.
Kerdi band is very thin, usually not a problem it is not needed unless you want to make the floor waterproof
Sal, I am currently tiling a small restroom which the floor is concrete slab. Any benefit of using Schluter Ditra installed over concrete slab? Thanks!
For sure, always better to have an uncoupling membrane.
@@SalDiBlasi Great...I will use it on my project! Thanks!
what thinset if I'm installing it over hardy backer, modified or unmodified?
Do not install ditra over cement board, one or the other, not both.
I trust Sal on anything he says however, I am not sure he understood what you were doing. I believe hardy backer is a great substrate for Ditra. And I am thinking that unmodified would be the product. Just guessing, anyone know for sure reading this?
I have a question, what do you think of about metal lath used on shower walls and shower floor as well as the bathroom floor? I seen videos of people using metal lath then using some type of scratch and brown coat to level walls and floors.
If yo are talking about Mud floors and Floated walls, old school but rock solid. If you are talking Jersey mud job, junk.
Sal DiBlasi oh ok. I see what u saying. I see y he difference. I had to Google the difference between. Yes. I seen on videos people just do a thin coat of mud over the path. Just enough to cover it. So the old school mud job is old but still used today?
Jersey Mud job which is a wire lath with a thin coat of thinset is crap, and not an approved method. Tar paper wire lath with a thick coat of Deck mud is referred to as a mud job and an old school method that is usually not used in this day and age due to the weight, labor, thickness and difficulty among other reasons.
Hi sal great videos! I'm installing wood plank tile 36" or 48" over a hydronic radiant heated panel floor which is aluminum, would you suggest adding ditra (what adhesive?) or use CBU? Thanks!
+Denise U CBU might be a pfoblem becsuse you need to penetreta into the floor you are covering, ditra would be a better choice, but i would contact Schluter tec support to get their recommendations.
Great video Sal. How much of an expansion gap do you leave between the ditra and exterior walls, pillars, columns etc?
about 1/4"
Sal DiBlasi Thanks Sal
@@SalDiBlasi why do you have to leave a gap?
what is the working time on that thin set? and what brand is it??
+Ridge ForestRun if you mix it correctly and depending on the ambient condition, hours. All thet info is on the bag.