My 67 four speed Mustang with a built 302 only had 12 inches of vacuum with a brake booster. I'll tell you about a braking issue I had. With station wagon rear finned brake drums/shoes (larger than normal Mustang drum brakes) the rear brakes started locking up when stopping at all speeds. I did the usual by replacing drums, shoes, cylinders, flex lines, master cylinder, booster, proportioning valve and bleeding countless times. It turned out the rebuilt booster was the culprit. I went to disconnect the push rod from the brake pedal to the booster and the push rod was literally broken in two pieces! How that thing didn't completely fail is beyond me. Replaced the booster for the third time and the locking brake issue was cured. I don't understand how that would just affect the rear brakes but it did.
Do you have the front and rear lines mixed up on the MC ? One of the classic Mustang mags did a feature years ago and hooked them up wrong and fought the brake battle furiously... I've also had good luck using the 78 Granada/Maverick brass combination valve, which stages the brake application and limits pressure.
@@hotrodray6802 no, the lines were not in the wrong sequence. When I first encountered the problem of locking brakes, I literally disconnected the rear feed line at the master cylinder and did a slow brake test. It's one of those things that I couldn't figure it out why it happened.
@Harvey Mushman I have the same setup in my 68 also and love it. I’m still running drums all the way around and am getting ready to do a disc upgrade. This video totally convinced me to stick with the manual set up when I put the discs on.
Matt Timmons , I got a disc brake setup off a scrap yard 73 cougar and was an easy bolt on. My next project is the Shelby drop and grab-a-trak spring kit.
I went manual Wilwood brakes on my 74 240Z after a buddy let me drive his 1000hp 68 F100 that has manual brakes and I've never turned back. The manual brakes feel really good, you'd be surprised. Really good information as I only know what I know from other people so it was nice to hear information you learned at Wilwood. Thanks Ben.
So it looks like spinning the valve clockwise will adjust the proportioning so the rears will lock up. Then, spinning it counter-clockwise a few turns balances back towards a more neutral proportion?
Great video good info , I personally prefer a vacuum pump over the hydroboost , if you stall your car or the engine stops running for any reason you lose your brakes and with the vacuum pump you still have a little residual left in the booster to get the car stopped . Just my opinion. and keep the videos coming
I think I mentioned this on another video but the '66 Coupe that I bought at 14 (in '79) was nearly a dead ringer for yours. Shelby nose, a '69 302, etc. and I did many of the same mods you've done. I had 'glass flares on the rear fenders though since both rear quarters had been crunched and replacing them was beyond both my skill level and budget. My after school job made me @ $50 a week!
wow, learned some stuff i didnt know. glad the brakes on my dart are manual now, because no way is the cam in my big block gonna make vacuum haha. the firewall issues isnt that big of a deal. im sure theres a stiffening plate for it somewhere, but if not, just make one from some thick gauge steel.
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Cool video, its fun watching you learn and figure things out. One way to build vacuum in traffic is to downshift and use the engine to brake. Its an old trick I used back when the 4 speeds were unbroken and I ran power boosters on my low vacuum engines. The high compression 455s I run don't care, they make a ton of vacuum even with what would be a huge cam in a 302 Ford. You can do it with an auto trans too, but some like a stock Th400 or C4 won't downshift until the governor allows it. The speed at which the governor allows a downshift varies a lot, even in the same application. Lots of variables. Its a very simple change on a Th400, you plug a certain hole in the valve body, but then you can put it in first gear at any speed.. tends to lock up the rear wheels or spin the engine so tight it grenades when you do that at high speeds. My 67 Cougar came with the 4 piston disc brakes from the factory. It was my first car and I never understood when people said muscle cars have bad brakes, that thing stopped like right now provided you didn't lock them up. Then I drove a 68 Chevelle with drums, and a 69 Charger with drums, and it all made sense after that. Only two Pontiac cars I have are staying 4 drum, they are low buck sleepers, 68 LeMans and 72 Ventura. Drums are a lot more work keeping them stopping straight.
so what did he do as far as adjusting,, did he turn it all the clock wise , or did he go counter clock wise? to start, I need to do the test and adjustment also. Nice Car
Question for ya. I recent got the 4 piston Wilwood front brake setup. What wheel size are you using on the front? Any clearance issues with the caliper?
Hi Ben, Been watching for a while now - and love all your videos - I just acquired a 1964.5 - D-Code Coupe - almost no rust California car. Converting it from an automatic to a 5 speed Borg-Warner/Tremec. I love the stance and look (Torque Thrust) of your Mustang and want to duplicate it. Could you give me the specs on your wheels and tires? I was thinking of going to 17" but the tire gets to skinny, there is more of a tire choice in 17"s but the ride is rougher I would guess... Opinion? Anyway - carry on with the great work and hope to hear from you soon. Cheers! Gary.
very interesting, i'm considering a wilwood brake kit for my vette and can't decide whether to go manual or keep the power assist...leaning towards manual
Four Speed Films that’s sweet man I’m putting on my master cylinder this weekend and brake lines for the same willwood kit you have any chance we can text on Instagram I have 65 myself that I am doing and would love to get your advice
Yes feel free to @benkahan ...I would just switch over to manual tho & I’m reinforcing the firewall with a metal plate...I haven’t tested it out yet but it was only $35
Hey, love your vids. They are what inspired me to buy my first car, which I bought a 65 mustang! But now I’m thinking if I should just rebuild the original drum brakes, or spend the money to get some wilwood brakes, is it worth it?
Hey! Thanks and that’s awesome! I would definitely recommend a front disc brake upgrade. Regardless with what company you decide to go with it will be a big upgrade👍🏼
Ben careful with that rear end locking up like that. In my experience my car performs best when I dial out the rest lockup you don't want that rear locking up in a turn its like a BMX bike. When you get it all fixed dial it out so the majority of braking duty is on the front!
@@hotrodray6802 Ah, thanks for explaining man. Even on my stock 289, I can feel the loss of vacuum after repeated braking, and the brakes coming back to life after some fast driving.
because the bigger the duration on a cam/larger the degree in closing the intake valve abdc, the air escapes out of the cylinder into the intake a bit, thus killing vacuum. thats why cams lope like they do. its a controlled vacuum leak. go pull some vaccum lines off some newer cars and they will start to lope too.
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good information i can use, i'm currently sorting out my brakes
Great! I was hoping this video would be helpful
@@FourSpeedFilms specially on how cams affects the vacuum
A LOT of valuable information for vintage Mustang owners packed into this video. Nice job, Ben.
This car becomes more and more of a beast. Good job, champ. Keep it up. Really wanna see the future upgrades.
More videos are on the way! Thank you🏁
@@FourSpeedFilms 😁✌️🙌🙏
What a nice old Mustang.....and what a beautiful raw sound it has!
My 67 four speed Mustang with a built 302 only had 12 inches of vacuum with a brake booster.
I'll tell you about a braking issue I had. With station wagon rear finned brake drums/shoes (larger than normal Mustang drum brakes) the rear brakes started locking up when stopping at all speeds. I did the usual by replacing drums, shoes, cylinders, flex lines, master cylinder, booster, proportioning valve and bleeding countless times. It turned out the rebuilt booster was the culprit. I went to disconnect the push rod from the brake pedal to the booster and the push rod was literally broken in two pieces! How that thing didn't completely fail is beyond me. Replaced the booster for the third time and the locking brake issue was cured. I don't understand how that would just affect the rear brakes but it did.
Do you have the front and rear lines mixed up on the MC ?
One of the classic Mustang mags did a feature years ago and hooked them up wrong and fought the brake battle furiously...
I've also had good luck using the 78 Granada/Maverick brass combination valve, which stages the brake application and limits pressure.
@@hotrodray6802 no, the lines were not in the wrong sequence. When I first encountered the problem of locking brakes, I literally disconnected the rear feed line at the master cylinder and did a slow brake test. It's one of those things that I couldn't figure it out why it happened.
I have a 67 cougar didn't know the new booster was junk, 20 f in hours later I figured it out
@@dogsense3773 only 20 hours? Consider yourself lucky.
You put this up right as me and my buddy started our brake work on our mustangs! Great timing
Lucky for you to have their support.
Very informative, my 68 has manual brakes and steering and I love the feel. Thanks Ben
Awesome! I can’t wait
@Harvey Mushman I have the same setup in my 68 also and love it. I’m still running drums all the way around and am getting ready to do a disc upgrade. This video totally convinced me to stick with the manual set up when I put the discs on.
Matt Timmons , I got a disc brake setup off a scrap yard 73 cougar and was an easy bolt on. My next project is the Shelby drop and grab-a-trak spring kit.
I'm thinking of adding power disc brakes to my 69. Good to know on the vacum issue I'll have to check that
Cool! Thanks for watching
I went manual Wilwood brakes on my 74 240Z after a buddy let me drive his 1000hp 68 F100 that has manual brakes and I've never turned back. The manual brakes feel really good, you'd be surprised. Really good information as I only know what I know from other people so it was nice to hear information you learned at Wilwood. Thanks Ben.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
Love the stang! And the video quality is top notch. Hope one day I’m able to come even close with skills. Keep up the good work
That thing’s sweet. I just drove my neighbor’s 67 notchback for the first time and I definitely appreciate that it recently had power brakes installed
Love your car and videos...nice work! FYI... the unit of measure you are reading on a vacuum gauge is inches of mercury...not cubic inches.
What about a vacuum pump?
I used this video to help me dial in my wilwood prop valve , great video bro 🔥👍
So it looks like spinning the valve clockwise will adjust the proportioning so the rears will lock up. Then, spinning it counter-clockwise a few turns balances back towards a more neutral proportion?
Great video good info , I personally prefer a vacuum pump over the hydroboost , if you stall your car or the engine stops running for any reason you lose your brakes and with the vacuum pump you still have a little residual left in the booster to get the car stopped . Just my opinion. and keep the videos coming
Hydaboost has an accumulator. You have two good stops saved up.
I redid my front drum brakes this summer and man is manual braking + drums all around the slowest, yet the most reliable system ever :D
Hell yeah!
put some dryer hose pointed towards the drums and they will cool better.
Ben, missed your videos keep them coming.
More on the way!
Love this car! No Honda wheels and rubber band tires, no billet steering wheel. It's just perfect.
Thanks!
I think I mentioned this on another video but the '66 Coupe that I bought at 14 (in '79) was nearly a dead ringer for yours. Shelby nose, a '69 302, etc. and I did many of the same mods you've done. I had 'glass flares on the rear fenders though since both rear quarters had been crunched and replacing them was beyond both my skill level and budget. My after school job made me @ $50 a week!
That’s awesome man! Thanks for sharing🏁
Great video, I was about to add power brakes to my 70 Fastback, now I'll stick with the manual setup!
Sweet Ride!
Keep the power brakes for driveability just add a motor to run the booster.
Todd bob what type of motor?
Nice seeing a new video
Really helpful info on vacuum. I think I'll stick with non-assisted brakes so my future tuning options aren't limited.
Love the car, simple, understated. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Very interesting topic. Thanks for sharing!
Great video Ben!
Same been looking at slotted mags in the rear for mine aswell
Mike already knew the car dident have enough vacuum,he just wanted to test it so he could hear the car run.
GREAT video! Super informative 👍🏾
That’s a good and informative video bud! Just in time as I’m about to do my disc break conversion next week
You're 65 Mustang is looking good brother.
Nice video Ben, a lot of good info to learn from here !
Thanks bro! Yeah a lot of stuff covered in this video was new to me👌🏼
Would you be willing to tell me what size rims and tires you have? Thank you.
That's a beautiful car. Great video 👍
wow, learned some stuff i didnt know. glad the brakes on my dart are manual now, because no way is the cam in my big block gonna make vacuum haha. the firewall issues isnt that big of a deal. im sure theres a stiffening plate for it somewhere, but if not, just make one from some thick gauge steel.
That car looks great with those wheels and tires.🙂👍
I agree!
Awesome as usual!!!!
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Yellow 65 falcon!
good info. i need to tune my brake system
Cool video, its fun watching you learn and figure things out. One way to build vacuum in traffic is to downshift and use the engine to brake. Its an old trick I used back when the 4 speeds were unbroken and I ran power boosters on my low vacuum engines. The high compression 455s I run don't care, they make a ton of vacuum even with what would be a huge cam in a 302 Ford. You can do it with an auto trans too, but some like a stock Th400 or C4 won't downshift until the governor allows it. The speed at which the governor allows a downshift varies a lot, even in the same application. Lots of variables. Its a very simple change on a Th400, you plug a certain hole in the valve body, but then you can put it in first gear at any speed.. tends to lock up the rear wheels or spin the engine so tight it grenades when you do that at high speeds.
My 67 Cougar came with the 4 piston disc brakes from the factory. It was my first car and I never understood when people said muscle cars have bad brakes, that thing stopped like right now provided you didn't lock them up. Then I drove a 68 Chevelle with drums, and a 69 Charger with drums, and it all made sense after that. Only two Pontiac cars I have are staying 4 drum, they are low buck sleepers, 68 LeMans and 72 Ventura. Drums are a lot more work keeping them stopping straight.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Got me a 67 cougar with 4 wheel disc
Wow! Mike is good!
Yeah he’s super knowledgeable and easy to understand
really cool man i hope to join the willwood team someday!
Hell yeah! Thanks man
Looking forward to see how you go with no booster.
Good stuff......Keep up the good work.
The brake brace goes on the outside from the firewall to the shock tower.
so what did he do as far as adjusting,, did he turn it all the clock wise , or did he go counter clock wise? to start, I need to do the test and adjustment also. Nice Car
As always great video.
What size wheel and tires are you running ? i love them and need a set for my 66
Good job man 👨
Question for ya. I recent got the 4 piston Wilwood front brake setup. What wheel size are you using on the front? Any clearance issues with the caliper?
Hi Ben, Been watching for a while now - and love all your videos - I just acquired a 1964.5 - D-Code Coupe - almost no rust California car. Converting it from an automatic to a 5 speed Borg-Warner/Tremec. I love the stance and look (Torque Thrust) of your Mustang and want to duplicate it. Could you give me the specs on your wheels and tires? I was thinking of going to 17" but the tire gets to skinny, there is more of a tire choice in 17"s but the ride is rougher I would guess... Opinion? Anyway - carry on with the great work and hope to hear from you soon. Cheers! Gary.
What size are those front tires and how are they not hitting the fender? Im runnin 245/45r17 on my 65 and they hitting front of fender on turns
very interesting, i'm considering a wilwood brake kit for my vette and can't decide whether to go manual or keep the power assist...leaning towards manual
I would go manual🏁
Love the content and that car is amazing
Great vid. I have the same issue with my wklwood conversion as my brakes don't lock up. Did he undo the proportion valve or tighten?
Have you check your rear brakes?
Hi, what color is that matte green?
Hey man what paint did you use, looks sweet
sounds badass
Good stuff bro
What steering wheel do you have?
Moon eyes
Nice!
Good to see a young guy not in a rice burner👍👌
I’m right about to put brakes on my moms car so I can drive to high school, and than you uploaded this what a coincidence
Shit ben!! When we racing?
awesome
BTW
We have used an electric vacuum pump and reservoir for big cammed engines.
Great video Ben. Will you be updating to the Wilwood Pedals? What about rear disk?
Thanks! I probably won’t be switching over to the pedals but I definitely want to convert over to rear discs
Informative video
Are you still running the venom 250s?
new sub here ! keep the videos coming ! love that mustang by the way ;)
Can you please tell me the wheels and tires sizes and what wheel model? I love the look
Those are American Racing Torq Thrust D; same as what was on Steve McQueen's Bullit Mustang.
I’m curious to see how you re-enforce the fire wall.
I already bought a plate $35...I’ll be doing the install very soon
Four Speed Films awesome. I have a 65’ coup project as well.
More mustang videos!!
What you got under the hood ? How much hp
Are those 14" wheels? Curious if they were and cleared your discs
15x7
Greetings from the international space station!
Haha!
Where did you find that tach?
Mooneyes
What size tires??
How long did it take you to get where you are with the car now
I’ve had it for 5 years...been doing small things to it every year but I’ve been driving it since sophomore year of high school
Cool!
Thanks!
Use some Gasgacinch to get rid of the belt squeal. No need to be driving crazy on the streets, you're gonna hurt someone.
hey man, what rear end is in your mustang?
8in (3.80 gears and a posi)
You should always reverse into your driveway
Do you need power brakes when running willwood disc on the front.
I’m currently converting the car to manual right now...vid should be out in the next couple of weeks
Four Speed Films that’s sweet man I’m putting on my master cylinder this weekend and brake lines for the same willwood kit you have any chance we can text on Instagram I have 65 myself that I am doing and would love to get your advice
Yes feel free to @benkahan ...I would just switch over to manual tho & I’m reinforcing the firewall with a metal plate...I haven’t tested it out yet but it was only $35
just let this car to the right guy.
Hey, love your vids. They are what inspired me to buy my first car, which I bought a 65 mustang! But now I’m thinking if I should just rebuild the original drum brakes, or spend the money to get some wilwood brakes, is it worth it?
Hey! Thanks and that’s awesome! I would definitely recommend a front disc brake upgrade. Regardless with what company you decide to go with it will be a big upgrade👍🏼
The late 70s Granada/Maverick entire brake systems are a bolt on. Grab the 1" front anti roll bar too.
Not Wilwood but $100 at the yards.
Spindles, rotors, everything.
HotRod Ray wow, that sounds a lot better than a couple hundred lol. I appreciate that tip, I’ll definitely keep an eye out.
@@hotrodray6802 makes me wonder if the mustang ii brake stuff will bolt up then.
Not to be picky, but vacuum is measured in inches of mercury, NOT PSI. This is a negative pressure, not positive. Otherwise, great video.
Have someone bead roll a pannel you candy sandwich on the firewall and plugweld it stiffen it up a lot ehbud
Saludos desde mi casa❤️
🙏🙌
Thanks Ethan!
Ben careful with that rear end locking up like that. In my experience my car performs best when I dial out the rest lockup you don't want that rear locking up in a turn its like a BMX bike. When you get it all fixed dial it out so the majority of braking duty is on the front!
rather have the front slide than the back tbh...thats scary indeed.
Why do large engines make less vacuum?
Big cam valve overlap. Intake and exhaust valves open at the same time.
Thats where the rougher idle comes from.
Note. The cubic inch size engine doesnt matter.
It happens to all sizes with a big cam.
@@hotrodray6802 Ah, thanks for explaining man. Even on my stock 289, I can feel the loss of vacuum after repeated braking, and the brakes coming back to life after some fast driving.
because the bigger the duration on a cam/larger the degree in closing the intake valve abdc, the air escapes out of the cylinder into the intake a bit, thus killing vacuum. thats why cams lope like they do. its a controlled vacuum leak. go pull some vaccum lines off some newer cars and they will start to lope too.
Frigglebiscuit Thanks guys, learnt something new
Disculpa no c inglés. Podrían mandar sólo en español. Por su atención gracias
Not to be petty, but it not cubic inches of vacuum.
Passive violence towards small block lives🤔