lookes like it should work / shiny. Did you have any problems with popping air pockets? / suggestions ? mine is being pain even with a vacuum tools / 2 man and its the first time i haved this problem
hmm 🤔 how long? in minutes / how much fluid did you end up using? as you probably can tell by reading this isn't my first " brake job " and i do have most of the right tools for the job like hydraulic gauges the only tool i didn't try is a " professional pressure bleeder " but i did use the electric master cylinder hydraulic assist pump for leak testing / speed bleeding out most of the air in my new lines and 6 pistons calipers and 4 of them (@ 1200 psi for 10 + minutes and outside passed with flying colours ) all of my parts individually as a disk swap installation
A couple of questions. What Master cylinder are you using? Is the master cylinder level? Are you bleeding the top bleed screws on the caliper and doing the out side screw first? If you are positive you don't have any leaks make sure you don't bleed the master dry at any point and bleed out around a full bottles worth of brake fluid and if you don't have a nice firm pedal then you probably have a defective master cylinder.
my master cylinder i went with you can get a new ( from ABS power brakes.com ) 1 1/8 in billtit one but im going for a " 1969 dodge charger factory look / sporty prototype feel of what could have been a stock factory T/A " th-cam.com/video/q-2FebPzy2U/w-d-xo.html no ABS system i skipped it / too much work for me rite now / i don't know how work on reprograming complicated computer systems including home towers /pc but it possibly can work, 1960-80s GM guys use it on $$ builds. as far as being level i think it is car is on 4 jackstants wheels off as for out side leaks over 90% sure its ok and i used a timer set to 10m brake fluid torquebrakefluid.com/rt700-specifications.html / cheap auto part store DOT 4 mosty because the "good stuff is $$$$ and im tried of wasting it " the newer tsbs says thats the better 1 to use ( dot4 ), i have ended up using over a 1 gallon trying to bleed it and yes it was 70-100% full the entire time www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds213.pdf plumbing schematic diagram i used just without the check valves installed and the return line caped off ( with a bleeder nipples at the end up higher than the reservoir ) the check for correct functionality its passable i did something wrong with getting it to work because this the first " racing braking system " i have worked on 99 % of the others are R&R OEM parts and procedures rotors are 12.88 willwood 2 piece type super light - 6 pistons ( 17 and up rims i don't see how any 19in rims can fit on a B_Body without rubbing or cutting ) i would have like to been able to afford the carbon - carbon but could not come up with the 1k + $$ extra up front costs so win my pads are toasted / iron rotors i do than up grade 2 for 17in rims , as for the " outside bleeder nipples " no i have left them closed and have not seen anywhere saying to open them with the fuild recirculators installed + mine are drilled with a crossover tube installed from willwood with all 316 stainless steel 1/4 in lines -4 JIC / A/N fittings
Dude I have seen so many mustang disk brake conversion videos, but you did the best job of explaining what master cylinders are, drum vs disk masters, boosters, residual pressure valves etc!!
So I have about 4 months driving on my project 70 mustang coupe with my new Willwood 7/8" bore master cylinder based on your recommendations in this video. I have to say I could not be happier with the results! The car has a front disc brake conversion with rear drums. Thank you so much. Great when you can do a project like this right the first time and thanks to you that's just how this one worked out.
2 things about your video. I wouldn't cut anything off the pushrod length. The reason being that you have put a smaller bore master cylinder in than the original. Smaller bore equals more pressure but also equals longer travel. I would be testing the brakes before I cut anything off the pushrod in case you end up with the pedal way too low. Also the switch in the proportion valve is not a brake fluid level switch (not in cars here in Australia anyway)It operates a warning light to tell you there is a pressure difference between the front and the rear brakes perhaps a leak or a failure in one of the circuits.
Very good presentation. I like it when you show things going wrong and how to fix. Real world situations are the best learning tool. Thanks for sharing.
A quick tip about brake fluid if you push the brake pedal to the floor that will push the rod inside the master cylinder and this will stop brake fluid coming out of the hose, hold the brake pedal down with a stick or long rod.
Yes it is a brake light switch. I think its usually easier to use the set up on the car if the wiring is good. I have used the switch on the prop valve and it works fine.
I have been told a 7/8 inch bore master is the problem of my milwood conversion that put on. I used the same parts you did I believe. They(milwood) say it is not pushing enough fluid to engage the volume needed to close those calipers.
That is why I want at least at 15/16" bore. The smaller the bore, the more pressure. Especially with manual brakes. My current present master cyl. is a 1" bore and I have to almost use two feet to stop my car.
This setup is gonna be good. I usually torque to the higher number. Got trust issues with my inexpensive torque wrench. If I had a well calibrated one, I'd probably go in the middle.
Can you please go in depth as to which brake lines go where. The problem (a dumb one) I'm having, is that I removed the old MC and added this exact kit but I don't know which lines go where. Because 2 brake lines came off, and now the new proportioning valve has 3 outs. 2 front, 1 rear.
Regarding the plug torque question you raised I agree with you. For a time I was a mold maker and therefore drilled and tapped a lot of holes in a lot of different types of material. Because the Wilwood Master Cylinder is aluminum lubricating the threads is always a good idea as aluminum threads have a tendency to gall and once it starts the threads are shot. For applications where aluminum threads are used frequently I've always used thread inserts.
Great info. Very helpful on the bore size. I just bought a classic 1978 triumph spitfire and this is my first manual brake car. It has disc in the front and drums in the rear. This has narrow down some. I called to purchase a universal master cylinder but they also asked me for pedal travel. How important is pedal travel?
Pretty good stuff right here and it is appreciated. I want to find this same cylinder, but with a 15/16" bore. Was kinda shocked the Wilwood Master was $439 on Amazon. Is there another Master you could recommend? My budget is tight on my 67 Mustang. Thanks and cheers from Motown/Dearborn
@@mainardo20 I found a nice Master cylinder for disk/drum from Leeds brakes. 5/16 in bore will give me a bit more line pressure for my manual setup. Now, just need to find the right brake lines from master to dist block. Thanks for your "Ford forum" tip.
What adjustment did you make to stop the leaking? The master cylinder shaft length? I completed mine and have a soft pedal. Now I have to troubleshoot the system. There goes another day.
20-25 ft lbs tq. Go to the highest torque because if it loses torque to 20 ft lbs it’s still within spec. If torqued to low end and it loses torque it’s no longer in the 20-25 range, which means it’s no longer torqued.
Hi, Don´t know your profession and knowledge to decide accurate MC, but i have a 69 Camaro with disc/disc w 11" booster on, but running loopy cam, so i have bad vaccum, about 10-14hg. What size of bore will you recomend for my application?? Thanks in advance.
I think my 15 year old no name chinese parts store torque wrench is probably way off so I just go the low end since the spring was under tension for years once. Damn probably time to get a decent torque wrench any suggestions for a budget minded greaser?
20-25 ft-lbs spec states the upper and lower spec limit. Your target torque should be 22.5 ft-lbs. Every torque wrench has inherent variation, and it's usually ±3%. With these low of torques values, 3% is only ~0.7 ft-lbs (so not much). Then comes in the variation with fastener holding force and that's cause by dirt on the threads, lubricated threads (like you using white lithium grease can actually REDUCE the max torque by as much as 10 ft-lbs for an M10 bolt), and how clean and burr-free the threads are. That's a lot of info but the takeaway is, torque it to the value between the two numbers (22.5 ft-lbs here) and do not use a lubricant unless the instructions tell you to because you could actually be over-torqueing the bolts.
I saw your video and it goes to what I need. I'm from Portugal and I need your help to choose the best Proportioning Valve for my 67 mustang with front power Disc & rear Drum Brake My original is a DISTRIBUTION BLOCK that I think is different from a Proportioning Valve? What's the difference? What is the best replacement option: PV6070FD or Wilwood 260-11179 or PV2 I changed my mastercylinder to a "1967-70 Mustang Power brake booster Chrome master cylinder" (9 "brake booster and 1" bore MC) One of the problems I feel is that the pedal is harder and has less travel. It's normal? I have one more question, Why do you use a residual valves 10lb if you already have a Wilwood 260-11179 with tuning? How is Wilwood 260-11179 tuned to find the perfect balance? Congratulations fo the video.
The distribution block is going to be different than a proportioning valve. get rid of the block and use the proportioning valve. You adjust the valve by twisting the knob on the top. you only need the 10lb residual valve if you are running drum brakes in the rear and your master cylinder is set up for rear disc brakes. As for the pedal feel I couldn't really tell you unless I was there to feel it. The only thing I can tell you is to make sure you are getting enough vacuum to the booster.
My mustang has power brakes. What is the difference in feel from power drums to manual disc? I've never driven a manual braked car. I have driven an old truck with vacuum assist brakes that had a tendency to die at speed. Stopping it without the assist was no fun. Does Willwood have a booster that matches the master cylinder?
rablwo It can be hard to explain. A manual set up with the right bore size has good pedal feel that will always feel the same. It takes a bit more effort but I prefer it. You can use any booster with the wilwood master cylinder but they usually like the 11 inch booster instead of the 9.
i found i like manual master cylinders because it has more feedback to my foot so i know what my brake pads / tires are doing and letting me be at maximum threshold breaking force and like bbg said it doesn't miss with the engine management systems or nead them to work correctly which is a nice thing to have and probably could have saved me from messing up my friends car because of the engine died at the wrong time = no vacuum in a parking garage on a incline. my personal favourite master cylinder is a hydraulic boosted bendex 9 because it feels like a manual ( no slop / lag ) but is easier to pressurise @ 35~ lb in = 1400~ psi line pressure. now bbg different parts can be safer to use than others line pressure is different between sizes of masters ( 7/8" in = 800psi ish vs 1" in = 400 psi @ 1/6 ratio 50 lb ish peddle effort no hydro assist on, from my 1" in master cylinder testing ) its not just " feel good " peddle ratio makes a difference to in line pressures and peddle effort too edit: i forgot to add the higher the line pressure is the more clamping force is generally the more braking power is assuming everything else is the same braking parts wise like rotors and callipers
I would double check with the manufacturer but I am pretty sure you can. The Master is universal for ford cars of that era and the brakes work with all of the spindles in that era.
awesome appreciate the quick response i also messaged you on instagram I'm from ventura california i saw in your video you got the 69 from bakersfeild thats kind of close to me haha and btw really like the one piece banners in the shop@@BudgetBuildGarage
On a 67 mustang when you add rear disk brakes (basically complete conversion from quick performance) do you have to change the stock master cylinder? Does anyone know? We try vacuum bled it from right rear, left rear, front right then front left. We can not get a firm pedal at all. We also manually bled it multiple times. We always had the brake reservoir topped off and no leaks anywhere.
Does any one know what size booster or have a link I need a disc/disc booster for a 1968 mustang and I cant find the info anywhere I bought a wilwood 6piston kit and would like to put a matching master cylinder but I dont know if it all will fit HELP PLEASE !!!!!
Did you ever get a reply to your question? I was looking for a booster and master cylinder set as well for my 665 mustang with full Wilwood disc brake set up as well.
Unless your torque wrench is calibrated, which mine are not, I go dead center of what they say the torque value is with the hopes that my torque wrench will get me between one of the two numbers they specify....... Thats just me.
What are your thoughts on this master cylinder upgrade and the disc brake upgrade as a whole?
lookes like it should work / shiny.
Did you have any problems with popping air pockets? / suggestions ? mine is being pain even with a vacuum tools / 2 man and its the first time i haved this problem
@@richardprice5978 I wouldn't say problems but it definitely took a long time to fully bleed this setup.
hmm 🤔 how long? in minutes / how much fluid did you end up using?
as you probably can tell by reading this isn't my first " brake job " and i do have most of the right tools for the job like hydraulic gauges the only tool i didn't try is a " professional pressure bleeder " but i did use the electric master cylinder hydraulic assist pump for leak testing / speed bleeding out most of the air in my new lines and 6 pistons calipers and 4 of them (@ 1200 psi for 10 + minutes and outside passed with flying colours ) all of my parts individually as a disk swap installation
A couple of questions. What Master cylinder are you using? Is the master cylinder level? Are you bleeding the top bleed screws on the caliper and doing the out side screw first? If you are positive you don't have any leaks make sure you don't bleed the master dry at any point and bleed out around a full bottles worth of brake fluid and if you don't have a nice firm pedal then you probably have a defective master cylinder.
my master cylinder i went with you can get a new ( from ABS power brakes.com ) 1 1/8 in billtit one but im going for a " 1969 dodge charger factory look / sporty prototype feel of what could have been a stock factory T/A " th-cam.com/video/q-2FebPzy2U/w-d-xo.html no ABS system i skipped it / too much work for me rite now / i don't know how work on reprograming complicated computer systems including home towers /pc but it possibly can work, 1960-80s GM guys use it on $$ builds. as far as being level i think it is car is on 4 jackstants wheels off as for out side leaks over 90% sure its ok and i used a timer set to 10m
brake fluid torquebrakefluid.com/rt700-specifications.html / cheap auto part store DOT 4 mosty because the "good stuff is $$$$ and im tried of wasting it " the newer tsbs says thats the better 1 to use ( dot4 ), i have ended up using over a 1 gallon trying to bleed it and yes it was 70-100% full the entire time
www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds213.pdf plumbing schematic diagram i used just without the check valves installed and the return line caped off ( with a bleeder nipples at the end up higher than the reservoir ) the check for correct functionality its passable i did something wrong with getting it to work because this the first " racing braking system " i have worked on 99 % of the others are R&R OEM parts and procedures
rotors are 12.88 willwood 2 piece type super light - 6 pistons ( 17 and up rims i don't see how any 19in rims can fit on a B_Body without rubbing or cutting ) i would have like to been able to afford the carbon - carbon but could not come up with the 1k + $$ extra up front costs so win my pads are toasted / iron rotors i do than up grade 2 for 17in rims , as for the " outside bleeder nipples " no i have left them closed and have not seen anywhere saying to open them with the fuild recirculators installed + mine are drilled with a crossover tube installed from willwood with all 316 stainless steel 1/4 in lines -4 JIC / A/N fittings
Dude I have seen so many mustang disk brake conversion videos, but you did the best job of explaining what master cylinders are, drum vs disk masters, boosters, residual pressure valves etc!!
You did a much better job describing the bore size than pretty much anyone on the Vintage Mustang Forums (VMF).
Jeez that was fantastic information... you explained more in your video than more modern vids... most I've learned yet on the brakes.
Wow. Great explanation. Other videos don’t explain and it magically gets changed. Thank you.
So I have about 4 months driving on my project 70 mustang coupe with my new Willwood 7/8" bore master cylinder based on your recommendations in this video. I have to say I could not be happier with the results! The car has a front disc brake conversion with rear drums. Thank you so much. Great when you can do a project like this right the first time and thanks to you that's just how this one worked out.
How did you measure it to see if it were 7/8 or 15/16? I don’t know where to measure it.
Great video! Outstanding explanation on bore size options.
This definitely helps. Thanks
After watching and learning from you, I could definitely do it . You are awesome.
2 things about your video. I wouldn't cut anything off the pushrod length. The reason being that you have put a smaller bore master cylinder in than the original. Smaller bore equals more pressure but also equals longer travel. I would be testing the brakes before I cut anything off the pushrod in case you end up with the pedal way too low. Also the switch in the proportion valve is not a brake fluid level switch (not in cars here in Australia anyway)It operates a warning light to tell you there is a pressure difference between the front and the rear brakes perhaps a leak or a failure in one of the circuits.
Very good presentation. I like it when you show things going wrong and how to fix. Real world situations are the best learning tool. Thanks for sharing.
A quick tip about brake fluid if you push the brake pedal to the floor that will push the rod inside the master cylinder and this will stop brake fluid coming out of the hose, hold the brake pedal down with a stick or long rod.
Very Good explanation of everything related to the Job. You answered alot of my questions and i learned something new. Good Video 👍🏽
Hey correct me if I am wrong but on the willwood prop valve that is, in fact, a brake light switch. Great videos thanks for sharing.
Yes it is a brake light switch. I think its usually easier to use the set up on the car if the wiring is good. I have used the switch on the prop valve and it works fine.
I have been told a 7/8 inch bore master is the problem of my milwood conversion that put on. I used the same parts you did I believe. They(milwood) say it is not pushing enough fluid to engage the volume needed to close those calipers.
That is why I want at least at 15/16" bore. The smaller the bore, the more pressure. Especially with manual brakes. My current present master cyl. is a 1" bore and I have to almost use two feet to stop my car.
I have a 69 Mustang Grande Coupe coupe that I'm trying to get going and I appreciate all your help
Great video and education. Thanks for sharing.
Nice video & details.
Nice video... I like the realness. When you drop shit like I do it makes it relatable lol... subscribed
Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Changing those fittings from the bleeder fittings to the lines that fit on there doesnt the reservoir empty?
Super informative vid. Thanks for putting this together.
Its been over a year, how is this brake system treating you?
Great vid. Lots of detail.. Thanks for your hard work
This video is very helpful! I just ordered my Wilwood Master Cylinder today. Looking forward to the install in a week or so. Thank you!
What bore size did you end up going with?
I took your advice and went with the .875 bore.
@@BudgetBuildGarage
This setup is gonna be good.
I usually torque to the higher number. Got trust issues with my inexpensive torque wrench. If I had a well calibrated one, I'd probably go in the middle.
DJHighTopFade The middle is a good safe bet.
Is there any difference of feel or braking power of manual vs boosted brakes?
Hi, what to do when after you bleed your master cylinder keeps dripping?
Whats the difference betwen wilwood and original? . Im lost
Hi guys, can you run a 7/8” boar master with a booster?
Thanks
Great vids by the way
Can you please go in depth as to which brake lines go where. The problem (a dumb one) I'm having, is that I removed the old MC and added this exact kit but I don't know which lines go where. Because 2 brake lines came off, and now the new proportioning valve has 3 outs. 2 front, 1 rear.
Follow the out to their destination. 2 go to front right and left wheels and the one with the larger fitting goes to the rear brakes
Regarding the plug torque question you raised I agree with you. For a time I was a mold maker and therefore drilled and tapped a lot of holes in a lot of different types of material. Because the Wilwood Master Cylinder is aluminum lubricating the threads is always a good idea as aluminum threads have a tendency to gall and once it starts the threads are shot. For applications where aluminum threads are used frequently I've always used thread inserts.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate the answer.
Great info. Very helpful on the bore size. I just bought a classic 1978 triumph spitfire and this is my first manual brake car. It has disc in the front and drums in the rear. This has narrow down some. I called to purchase a universal master cylinder but they also asked me for pedal travel. How important is pedal travel?
Pretty good stuff right here and it is appreciated. I want to find this same cylinder, but with a 15/16" bore. Was kinda shocked the Wilwood Master was $439 on Amazon. Is there another Master you could recommend? My budget is tight on my 67 Mustang. Thanks and cheers from Motown/Dearborn
*ford forum
@@mainardo20 Thank you!
@@mainardo20 I found a nice Master cylinder for disk/drum from Leeds brakes. 5/16 in bore will give me a bit more line pressure for my manual setup. Now, just need to find the right brake lines from master to dist block. Thanks for your "Ford forum" tip.
The firewall where the master cylinder mounts is very weak on my 70’. I recommend reinforcing it.
The Monkey D Luffy wanted poster in the back - Badass haha
My 67 has a dual bowl reservoir. I'm putting those wilwood discs on the front, does the master cylinder need to be replaced?
What was causing the leak after you bled the MS? I’m doing the same swap into a 64 Falcon and mine are leaking like yours were after I bench bled.
What adjustment did you make to stop the leaking? The master cylinder shaft length? I completed mine and have a soft pedal. Now I have to troubleshoot the system. There goes another day.
20-25 ft lbs tq. Go to the highest torque because if it loses torque to 20 ft lbs it’s still within spec. If torqued to low end and it loses torque it’s no longer in the 20-25 range, which means it’s no longer torqued.
Hi, Don´t know your profession and knowledge to decide accurate MC, but i have a 69 Camaro with disc/disc w 11" booster on, but running loopy cam, so i have bad vaccum, about 10-14hg.
What size of bore will you recomend for my application??
Thanks in advance.
It has been awhile since we visited the Mustang. Is there anything else on the build plan? Or, is the project completed?
I want to know if we'll be revisiting it as well. This is my favorite project you have
Great video! Very informative.👌🏾
I think my 15 year old no name chinese parts store torque wrench is probably way off so I just go the low end since the spring was under tension for years once. Damn probably time to get a decent torque wrench any suggestions for a budget minded greaser?
20-25 ft-lbs spec states the upper and lower spec limit. Your target torque should be 22.5 ft-lbs. Every torque wrench has inherent variation, and it's usually ±3%. With these low of torques values, 3% is only ~0.7 ft-lbs (so not much). Then comes in the variation with fastener holding force and that's cause by dirt on the threads, lubricated threads (like you using white lithium grease can actually REDUCE the max torque by as much as 10 ft-lbs for an M10 bolt), and how clean and burr-free the threads are.
That's a lot of info but the takeaway is, torque it to the value between the two numbers (22.5 ft-lbs here) and do not use a lubricant unless the instructions tell you to because you could actually be over-torqueing the bolts.
I saw your video and it goes to what I need.
I'm from Portugal and I need your help to choose the best Proportioning Valve for my 67 mustang with front power Disc & rear Drum Brake
My original is a DISTRIBUTION BLOCK that I think is different from a Proportioning Valve? What's the difference?
What is the best replacement option: PV6070FD or Wilwood 260-11179 or PV2
I changed my mastercylinder to a "1967-70 Mustang Power brake booster Chrome master cylinder" (9 "brake booster and 1" bore MC)
One of the problems I feel is that the pedal is harder and has less travel. It's normal?
I have one more question, Why do you use a residual valves 10lb if you already have a Wilwood 260-11179 with tuning?
How is Wilwood 260-11179 tuned to find the perfect balance?
Congratulations fo the video.
The distribution block is going to be different than a proportioning valve. get rid of the block and use the proportioning valve. You adjust the valve by twisting the knob on the top. you only need the 10lb residual valve if you are running drum brakes in the rear and your master cylinder is set up for rear disc brakes. As for the pedal feel I couldn't really tell you unless I was there to feel it. The only thing I can tell you is to make sure you are getting enough vacuum to the booster.
Quick question does anyone know if this would work with the stock front and rear drums ?
very creative ! good
Great video, but the music is too loud. I wanna pay attention to what you say. Not a complaint,
My mustang has power brakes. What is the difference in feel from power drums to manual disc? I've never driven a manual braked car. I have driven an old truck with vacuum assist brakes that had a tendency to die at speed. Stopping it without the assist was no fun. Does Willwood have a booster that matches the master cylinder?
rablwo It can be hard to explain. A manual set up with the right bore size has good pedal feel that will always feel the same. It takes a bit more effort but I prefer it. You can use any booster with the wilwood master cylinder but they usually like the 11 inch booster instead of the 9.
i found i like manual master cylinders because it has more feedback to my foot so i know what my brake pads / tires are doing and letting me be at maximum threshold breaking force and like bbg said it doesn't miss with the engine management systems or nead them to work correctly which is a nice thing to have and probably could have saved me from messing up my friends car because of the engine died at the wrong time = no vacuum in a parking garage on a incline.
my personal favourite master cylinder is a hydraulic boosted bendex 9 because it feels like a manual ( no slop / lag ) but is easier to pressurise @ 35~ lb in = 1400~ psi line pressure.
now bbg different parts can be safer to use than others line pressure is different between sizes of masters ( 7/8" in = 800psi ish vs 1" in = 400 psi @ 1/6 ratio 50 lb ish peddle effort no hydro assist on, from my 1" in master cylinder testing ) its not just " feel good " peddle ratio makes a difference to in line pressures and peddle effort too
edit: i forgot to add the higher the line pressure is the more clamping force is generally the more braking power is assuming everything else is the same braking parts wise like rotors and callipers
14:30 LOL thanks for the video. Sub'd
What happened to the Stang?
Also wanted to add that when I read torque specifications 20 to 25 I try to go in between. Just makes me feel like I got it just right.
I think that is probably the safest way.
Do you know if I can use this same master cylinder and disc brake kit on a 67 Ford fairlane it looks the same but I’m not sure?
I would double check with the manufacturer but I am pretty sure you can. The Master is universal for ford cars of that era and the brakes work with all of the spindles in that era.
awesome appreciate the quick response i also messaged you on instagram I'm from ventura california i saw in your video you got the 69 from bakersfeild thats kind of close to me haha and btw really like the one piece banners in the shop@@BudgetBuildGarage
@@closvlogs7961 No problem! You should send me a picture of your car. I always like checking out other peoples projects.
Alright will do shoot me a follow on Instagram @clos_thegreat I started following you
hi this tutorial apply for the model of mustang 1971?
How much this set up cost
On a 67 mustang when you add rear disk brakes (basically complete conversion from quick performance) do you have to change the stock master cylinder? Does anyone know? We try vacuum bled it from right rear, left rear, front right then front left. We can not get a firm pedal at all. We also manually bled it multiple times. We always had the brake reservoir topped off and no leaks anywhere.
Yes you have to change it to disk disk one and no prop valve needed with rear discs.
@@robertclymer6948 Thank you! We ended up getting a new endless master cylinder and it finally worked!
Does any one know what size booster or have a link I need a disc/disc booster for a 1968 mustang and I cant find the info anywhere I bought a wilwood 6piston kit and would like to put a matching master cylinder but I dont know if it all will fit HELP PLEASE !!!!!
Did you ever get a reply to your question? I was looking for a booster and master cylinder set as well for my 665 mustang with full Wilwood disc brake set up as well.
Unless your torque wrench is calibrated, which mine are not, I go dead center of what they say the torque value is with the hopes that my torque wrench will get me between one of the two numbers they specify....... Thats just me.
That is a pretty safe way to do it.
wonderful!!! I having a car of ford
It’s a “FLARE-NUT WRENCH”!
Jesus Christ🙄
Wtf happened to the car!!!
Wilwood clutch mater cylinders suck