and he was supposed to run a vacuum pump to confirm there were no leaks BEFORE he opened the refrigerant values. Because if there were leaks the refrigerant will have leaked out.
@@RossMalagarie u are right but u really dont need it as these units are very simple to connect unless u are not strong enough to tighten two tubes together then we got a different problem there lmao
@@stevejeffrey11 air heat pumps, depending on the brand, function well to about 0°F, but some still work below 0. For colder climates, there are in ground heat pumps that use pipes and geothermal heat.
@@stevejeffrey11 Modern heat pumps can work well in the cold, however at some point they will reach the same cost effectiveness of regular electric baseboard heaters. So I would not recommend them for alaska in the cold days, but maybe the warmer days. It also depends how expensive your fuel is vs electric heat.
You may be able to use heat exchanger piping installed in the ground below the frost line. I haven’t researched it but the ground is used as a heat sink in this manner in hot climates. Also if you have access to a body of water it will be much warmer than the air. But you can’t beat the electrical efficiency of these systems. The power inverter technology they run makes sure they’re running at the exact right level instead of the on and off of non-invertered systems.
Big upgrade from the window unit I used for the last couple months of summer last year. Mini-split units are becoming more and more popular and I wanted to see what all the hype is about.. definitely way more quiet and convenient, plus it heats as well as cools. I'll post an update after this summer to talk money and savings! What kind of savings have people seen switching to ductless systems?? I'm curious to compare!
Amazing job on your install, a couple of things to keep in consideration. If it snows where you are then you should put it on a stand because those units condensate in the winter and defrost. The line set should be on a spiral not on a coil, because coils may trap oil. Curious to know how efficient and economical your unit is. Great video.
You may run into issues in a year or 2. I noticed you installed the linesets with vertical loops coiled up behind the condenser. That’s a big no no. Your causing an oil trap by doing that, this not allowing all the oil to return to the compressor. This will cause problems with the unit, and ultimately shorten the life expectancy
@@travisgaylor6830 Good point! Because the lines are provided at set lengths and could not cut them, how would you remedy? E. I. Coil them on a spiral downwards?
Heat pumps arent really a new thing. In hotter climates heat isnt used much so having electric heat is not that bad. Gas is much cheaper in most states, but obviously he doesn't have gas there and you cant get a split with a furnace anyway.
This looks great, one tip only, please don't shut off your living room at night to "save" on cost. What happens is the rest of all the mass heats up and the system when you turn it back on has to over compensate so it spikes to get everything to your designed temp. Trust me on this one, either you really want a system that runs like a "taxi" or one that runs like a car on the highway. Taxi's start and stop, highway driving will always be better milage and WAY LESS ware and tear. I really do hope you see this, I have been doing this HVAC / building science for 20 plus years.
I would also add that most require at least 5" clearance from inside wall. When you wrap your last newer bundle the drain should be on the bottom portion to allow for better draining and prevents airlocks. I am not sure where you are but anywhere the temps drop below freezing you should install the unit on a stand so condensation on the outdoor unit during heating won't form a giant block of ice at the base of your unit on a pad.
@@adamradley4407 I’m in the PNW , I have seen that happen up in the higher elevations areas by Mt Hood. Most people here live at around 500’ above sea level and the winters are generally mild, winter design temp is 42, summer is 83. While we do occasionally have lower and higher temps you will see ice dams on ground mounted units. I prefer exterior wall mount for many reasons, easier access to work on, lower maintenance and cleaner look. Good tip though!
I'm about to move into a semi fixer-upper house and these videos are very motivating. Knowing I could get something like this done with little experience and a weekend's worth of work is awesome. Thanks man!
I did a multi room unit in northern California, it was awesome, the dehumidify really was all I needed 90% of the summer it was great to have the option to keep rooms at different temps. (one thing to note is you cannot mix heating and cooling a the same time.)
@@rrsonic2913 - just one caveat is that is per condenser. If you have two separate units they can operate independently but if you have one unit that supports 4 rooms then it can run the fan, dehumidify, along with heating OR cooling in just the rooms you want.
Place rubber absorbing pads under the outdoor unit feet before screwing to concrete. Helps absorb vibration and stop concrete rusting the feet over time. These have been the staple air-conditioning systems in Australia for decades. nice to see the USA catching up.
Catching up? Most American houses already have built in Central Air conditioning to each room. These mini-splits are a great replacement for window units, but window units are only standard in old and/or run down buildings. Typically those in cities that didn't need it for very long.
I installed MRCOOL mini split units (1) 24k and (2) 9k and I cannot be more happier, this last winter I use way less oil and compare with the electricity used i got big savings, now in the summer I’m using so far the dry mode and it cool all the areas so easy, super energy efficient machines, but I think by getting the units separate will save you more than having a multi zone condenser for all the air handlers, individually you get more seers but Multizones less seer therefore less efficiency and more power consumption……overall great investment
I just installed mine in my living room last week. I now have to install my multi-zone ones throughout our bedrooms. This video was super helpful because I wasn't sure how to get one of the air handlers in one of the rooms because there isn't enough room on the exterior wall(giant window). Your video showed something the rest of the videos haven't, and that is bending the lines of the air handler the opposite way they came in. I did not know you could cut out that plastic piece if you needed too. This was amazing to know. I am less stress and more confident in doing this. You have a new subscriber!
@@patomex76 our house is roughly 1,700 sq ft, I installed a total of 4 air handlers. Our living room is by far the biggest room we have so I bought a unit with just 1 air handler and condenser. It was an 18000 btu and it cooled it off pretty fast. I then installed a unit in each bedroom(3) and they also work fantastic. For those I bought a 27000 btu which is 9k per unit. I spent a total of $4100. It was less because I’m a pro extra member and got a big discount or else it woulda cost around $6000
@@jessegandarilla4472 how its your.bill having ac mini split unit installed.. I have electric basebard heater 220v. It is expensive in winter season looking for install this unit. I already run the wire( renovation) for this time unit in the future but I not sure if I actually save or not in my electricity bill.
@@jaandel1 our highest bill came this month because we’ve been running the heater all day almost non stop. It was $200. Our furnace went out and that’s why we’ve been using them a lot this past month. Our bill usually averages between $80-$100.
Just to clear up the never ending question I keep seeing. I've installed both styles. DIY and standard mini splits. The DIY units have Freon pre charged in the lines with sealed connectors. The vacuum is already pulled on the compressor side. When you open the valves where the lines attach to the outside unit it draws the Freon in from the pre charged cooper lines and your done. Run unit 5 mins in heat and cool cycle and your good to go. The standard units have Freon already in the compressor side but the copper lines have to be built so they will have air in them. They need to have a vacuum pulled and you need the little special connector to attach your gauges. Its like $12 I think. Your pulling the vacuum on the lines and inside unit for I think 30 mins at whatever pressure. The inside unit will make a little hiss sound when you take the caps off which is good. They pull a draw on it and the hiss means it has no leaks. I don't remember exact numbers but its in the book. AC guys know off top they're head. The DIY units have worked perfect for me so far after a few years. The standard units have been perfect also. There is no difference in the cooling abilities between them.
I am definitely going with a Mr. Cool system. I own 2 homes that I am remodeling and I've decided the mini-split heating & AC units are the way to go. I like the flexability of controlling different zones of the house separately. Thanx for the installation video..I have watched several of them on the mini-splits and yours was very well done. 👍
"... I probably won't do a youtube video because I have no idea what I'm doing..." Aw - those are the best videos! Nice job. Minisplits are indeed very nice. If you live in an area with high humidity there is nothing better for dehumidification since the vast majority of them are variable speed and they can optimize for dehumidification.
the gravel and wooden frame is a great touch. As a landscaper it's always a much easier job to maintain the lawn near the hvac systems that have been designed for not just aesthetics but practicality and safety. good job
It's also worth mentioning, code in some areas will require in offset from the property line. It's not worth risking a notice from the city telling you to move the unit, so check your local regulations.
Finishing TIP for m.split installations: When finished, PAINT to Match = Paint all your 'additions' attached on the exterior wall(s) using same-color wall paint of your house. Then they will blend in so that exterior wall will look a great deal less industrial. Include painting: LineSet Covers, conduit and disconnect box... can even paint wiring. Note that the gray on the disconnect box is gray PRIMER paint - these are meant to be 'painted in' in order to match surroundings. (Same is true for your inside Circuit Breaker Panels - no reason to leave them gray in the middle of a white wall) -Cheers
Just don't goop the hardware with paint lol God forbid you ever have to service it spending 20 mins just to chisel all the paint out of your hardware 🤣
I hope this comment isn't misunderstood as criticism but if I can make a suggestion - put "install" right after "DIY" at the start of the title so it says "DIY install Multi-Zone Ductless Mini Split AC". I definitely don't believe you were trying to clickbait or mislead with the title, but I was definitely expecting a very different video. However, it actually worked out for me as I've not really looked into many ready-made ductless mini-split systems in my quest to convert a window-mount AC into a mini split. I've only really looked into videos of other people that did the same - which I now see was a mistake. There's a lot more optional features for mini-split systems than I had originally assumed... I guess that's why there's such common sayings regarding making assumptions... So, thank you for that. Take it easy...
if you read up on any of the mini splits, they require the lines to be installed under vacuum. They also state if you do not use a licensed AC pro, all warranties are voided.
@@HalProctor the Mr Cool units apparently do not come with that requirement - a bit different than the rest. My Mitsubishi unit definitely required a licensed AC pro as well.
The only thing you are missing is a surge protector for your minisplit. You should install a Ditek DTK120/240 surge protector on your cutout switch so that in the event a lightning strike or power company surge happens your sensitive electronic control boards in the minisplit aren't toasted.
Here’s a tip on the concrete: after about 2 hours setup time on a pour the size you did, use a rasp to knock down the rough spots and essentially you have a smooth sanded finish before it hardens. Use a level to span across the forms as you go to check for high spots. Sweep off the dust when it’s cured. Good to go.
Super late here lmao, but where i live most builders spend at least a couple minutes hitting the boards firmly with a hammer o something once they poured all the concrete when building this kind of slabs and bases. This removes the air bubbles and gaps inside the mix and some water go to the surface, so it has a better finish. Isnt this done in America??maybe the concrete is just so different?
My sister lives in a old house no ac and right now no heat. (Thieves stole all copper they could before she moved in) im moving in with her and think 1st thing is upgrading her electric before looking at these. Thanks for this.
Do not spool refrigerant lines in a Vertical plane, the lubricating oil will eventually get trapped in bottom of Suction loop,. compressor will stave for lube oil. make loops in Horizontal plane so oil can keep flowing.
I'm no HVAC engineer, but that oil has to travel an 8-foot stretch straight up the wall. How could it do that if it's not capable of going up and down some one-foot loops? Just wondering. Thanks.
@@Vandalfoe I believe the oil mixes with the gas and has no problem when traveling up, but when coming down, it tends to "pool" on vertical loops and get trapped there slowly, over time
The MrCool units are top notch. Just make sure you dont put any additional pressure on the lines when installing to the condenser (the outside unit with the fan). I have 2 of them and couldnt be more happier. Plus the super efficiency is a bonus as it saves me tons on my electric bill . Overall great video!!
I know you had some Pro's come and help you but just a couple things to keep in mind (From another Pro) - Those communicating and power wires to the head unit are not UV rated, you really want to run those in some type of shielding (i.e. Sealtight or Liquidtight) - Those temp guns measure surface temp, not air temp, which is different and key when trying to gauge a true temp split. - Hooking up gauges to mini-splits to assess sub-cool and super-heat is pointless unless the system has a "charge" mode which can be enabled to force the system into 100% capacity One of the reasons these inverter mini-splits are so efficient is because they almost NEVER run @ 100% capacity. And if it's not then you have Accumulators and or Receivers that store refrigerant and release it back into the appropriate circuit/ working in conjunction with the metering device (Usually an EEV) to maintain a target SH. These systems seldom run long enough, and at a consistent enough capacity, to accurately read SB or SH. This is why a lot of the ductless mini-split systems don't even have a high side service port, just a low side to add refrigerant, which is only necessary if the line set is over a certain length, and in these cases, the added charged is calculated and weighed in via length of line set. ** I say high side (Discharge) and Low Side (suction) out of habit. On this system the EEV is in the condenser so both lines are technically "Low pressure" (This is why both must be insulated) But as a reference point it serves its purpose. ** On a side note, please do a one year update! I only ask because I myself have replaced at least a half dozen of these MRCOOL with name brand ductless mini-split systems do to these MRCOOL's failing. All for loss of charge, but in different areas of the refrigeration circuit.
I'm not a pro, but I have installed two of these (single zone) Mr Cools. One of them has been trouble free for about 3-4 years. The other one had multiple problems, and I was sent warrantied replacements for both the wall unit and the condenser. Without the 5 year warranty, I would not recommend these. As long as you're ok maybe having to swap them out in those 5 years, it's hard to beat the deal.
@@syclone1012 You can. But they are fairly maintenance free when installed correctly. Keeping the filters cleans at the head unit and the condenser coil clean is really all you need. Other than that the only other common failure on head units are the condensate pumps(not used on every install/set up) There’s also certain manufacturer specific issues that involve electrolysis but most of those issues have been addressed by now.
@@allen35315 cannot provide information, my entire house is electric everything. I bought the 24k unit 19 seer for a 1100ft SQ house, I can heat the house up 12° in about 6 minute's in turbo heat mode though....it's glorious. My refrigerant lines did fail though. Poor design by Mr. Cool, the first couple feet were braided and rotted/failed, I replaced the lines and refilled with 410a. It looks as if Mr. Cool corrected the "braided lines" and are now copper from outside unit to indoor unit. I paid 700 bucks after a 800 dollar rebate from my electric company vs. 8000 dollars for a Mitsubishi unit installed.
@@f4fake22 Do you have just the one air handler installed in that 1100 sf house? How do you get warm/cool air in to the smaller rooms like bathrooms and bedrooms?
I remember back in the day (on the Modern Maker Podcast), you'd mention that your long-term dream was to take on a bigger project, like a house. It's crazy to see that come true! Great content, as always, and killer edits! (still watching the video, just wanted to get my comment in early, haha).
Thanks a million brother!! Been a Long road but I'm pumped to have everything moving in the right direction... I'm demo'ing and remodeling the bedroom starting next week and can't wait to go room to room!! 🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@ModernBuilds You're crushing it man! I'm sure there are TONS of viewers like myself that have followed along for a while, and are super excited about those future projects!!!
Bill, I’m one of the guys in the video and I own an air conditioning company. I can tell you for sure the outdoor unit is virtually silent so no additional vibration isolation is needed.
I installed the DIY single unit a year ago and love it. It simply works perfect. The rubber feet are recommended when mounting the unit to the wall using a bracket to reduce vibration to the house. They are not needed when mounting to a standalone concrete pad. As others mentioned it is ridiculously quiet.
@@Shadetreecruiser Steve that makes perfect sense to me. The pad doesn’t connect to the house so it can’t transfer vibration. If you did have a pad that was connected then I might add the rubber pads.
What you recommended when install split heater ac unit into a big house with 5 rooms that have no duck work at all. Is better to do split system or do the duck work. It gets below zero here sometimes
The theory behind the mini split is slow constant airflow. So turning them on and off will actually make them less efficient. Running them slow and constant is the key to efficiency.
A) Cool Air provides rubber dampening pads for each of the four corners wear you bolt it down. They should have been used. Vibration on that hard pad will be tough on the unit. B) You can't water things with the condensation. The water is full of impurities and can kill plants. C) The key to this install was the great electrician.
Did you pull vacuum from the lines to get rid of the moisture that exists in the ambient air? In my projects I had kept the vacuum pump running for at least half an hour before letting the refrigerant in. Maybe that’s not needed where you live? Looks pretty dry out there 🙂
It’s been a year since posting this video. Any word on the electricity bill? I’m considering getting a couple of these for a house remodel. Very little to no snow in my area but a lot of great comments of things to keep in mind, mainly have an HVAC guy handy and don’t leave extra line coiled up. But, I’m very interested in how this impacted the electric bill. I can’t find anyone that has one who shared the difference it makes on the electric bill, good or bad.
@@MarcelHVACno it's not. why, is mr cool diy installation reducing your labor profits? lol you just have to make sure to follow the install manual and be up to code. it is doable for those already experienced with electrical as well as fixing things around the house.
there is a tool that lets you make flare fittings so you can cut the copper to the perfect length so you dont leave it bunched up and create an oil trap that is bad for the unit. surprised the HVAC techs didnt have one....
@@MyGoogleTH-cam exactly and the fittings would still be used but you'd still have to cut the excess copper. the flaring tool just flares the copper after you cut to the length you need and then you thread the flaring caps on the valves like normal.
It's hard for me to be sure without being there but I'm 95% positive you have a Zinsco electric panel and if so, it needs to be replaced if you want to avoid an electrical fire...
It's a Sylvania/GTE Panel. Label on lower right corner. This model could be the earlier ones associated with Zinsco. Later models use Cutler Hammer breakers.
the electrical cables that feed the system were very very badly installed, you can see they cut cables to reduce the diameter so each cable can fit in one side of the holder, bad method! you can use an electrical terminal and use the full diameter of the cable and reduce the heat in the cable and consume less energy.
FYI, you can’t use pressures on these systems. They’re critically charged. It will give you an idea but keep in mind everything modulates according to the load.
@@Ampacityelectric haha that's exactly what the tech told me after he helped vacuum my lines. So far I've had mine for 2 years and I already had to charge it once.
Should I mount the outside unit in my basement in Big Bear? I think lack of snow and a constant 50-60 temp should help with power consumption and longevity? It has four 3” x 12” vents
The thing I don’t understand is if you have a 3-4 zone system and bedrooms spaced pretty far apart, how do all of the heads connect to the condenser? Do you have to somehow run every unit’s line outside to be individually connected to the condenser? Or is there like some point where the units’ connections can meet and reuse the same condenser connection?
Missed an important step on the video: when you open the valves to the line sets you must ALSO open the master valves located above all of the places where the zone line sets connect on the outdoor unit .. do this prior to turning on the unit. Otherwise a great video.
I'm excited to see how this build holds up, and the savings it could bring you! The simplicity of install seemed so well designed, and I will definitely be checking out this company. One thing that concerned me while watching your testing of the connections with snoop (soapy water). It's fine when those lines are positively pressured like they were, but if you ever run into issues and are troubleshooting the unit, be sure to never snoop a section of refrigerant line you have a vacuum on. If you have a leak and the line is negatively pressured, you'll ruin (and need to replace) the filter dryer, and could possibly corrode the inside of the tubes and damage the compressor. Anyways, great video as always, and I hope that you do show the stucco work!
Didn't talk about sizing?? Can't just throw in a AC system with out sizing it correctly I get the precharged linesets but alot of manufacturers of "duct-less" have minimum requiments on line set length, coiling the line set like that in the back is incorrect an is NOT recommended by any manufacturer that I've seen, creates a oil trap. Also the box he built is not recommended beacuse most manufacturers have distances requirements for the outdoor coil (condenser) Also, no torque requirements on the lineset connections? No feet for the Outdoor coil? All heat pumps must be raised tobe drained to prevent ice daming in winter. Also, No surge protector on the disconnect? Would be nicer if it was on the other side of the outdoor coil but hey you have one. Do not install this yourself, call a HVAC pro, get 3 different bids and don't go with the lowest one. Plus most HVAC pros have warranties. But hey that's a sweat condesate drain...
How big the slab? How long is pipe line to compressor to wall unit? Do you know what is the difference between the Generations Mr Cool? I am thinking get 3rd Generation.
Some of the electrical connections at the Condenser Unit looked like they could’ve been done better and I would’ve foamed the wall penetrations to avoid critters and better sealing but other than that these DIY A/C units look like a good option for a Garage. If it breaks in 3-5 years who cares.
Thank you very much for your time and posting. Great job. I haven't decided on two 12K BTU systems or one 24K BTU 2 Zone system for a mobile home w/ 840 sq. ft. Thanks again.
You can save quite a bit of money buy buying a brand other than Mr. Cool. They are $400-500 more with the only difference is the lines are charged so they don't need to be vacuumed. You can buy a good enough vac and manifold set for $120 and do it yourself. Plus if your installing more then 1 unit you can use the vac over and over while buying the cheaper units. Also you can save a little money by using a non-fused disconnect, since it's on a breaker it doesn't really need an additional fuse.
It’s really not the best idea for your line sets to be coiled in the upright position… all of the oil will drain out of the compressor and get trapped.
@@neurodaemon where is this part of the world? Mini splits are extremely expensive here in the US and not every house has central air. Most of the US gets hot enough to justify AC.
@@coreyfournier3345 . Apparently Mr Cool comes with pre-charged line sets with a special fitting on each end that keeps them sealed until connected. See www.homedepot.com/p/MRCOOL-25-ft-3-8-in-x-5-8-in-Line-Set-for-DIY-24K-and-36K-DIY25-3858/314412417
Super simple and anyone can do it, all you need is two hvac techs and one electrician.
Facts 😂😂😂
yea the whole time I'm thinking what ever happened to the "Y" in DIY?
Mate, u can do it urself as long as u comfortable running a wire from your main box, if not then the electrician is needed but not the HVAC guys.
and he was supposed to run a vacuum pump to confirm there were no leaks BEFORE he opened the refrigerant values. Because if there were leaks the refrigerant will have leaked out.
@@RossMalagarie u are right but u really dont need it as these units are very simple to connect unless u are not strong enough to tighten two tubes together then we got a different problem there lmao
I live in Guam and 90% of the homes are built with split ac units to help keep electricity costs down. I love them!
Heat pumps are the future. Technology Connections would be proud.
can they handle cold winters in Alaska, Canada? how much power do they use for off grid applications
@@stevejeffrey11 air heat pumps, depending on the brand, function well to about 0°F, but some still work below 0. For colder climates, there are in ground heat pumps that use pipes and geothermal heat.
@@stevejeffrey11 Modern heat pumps can work well in the cold, however at some point they will reach the same cost effectiveness of regular electric baseboard heaters. So I would not recommend them for alaska in the cold days, but maybe the warmer days. It also depends how expensive your fuel is vs electric heat.
You may be able to use heat exchanger piping installed in the ground below the frost line. I haven’t researched it but the ground is used as a heat sink in this manner in hot climates. Also if you have access to a body of water it will be much warmer than the air. But you can’t beat the electrical efficiency of these systems. The power inverter technology they run makes sure they’re running at the exact right level instead of the on and off of non-invertered systems.
“I won’t be doing a video because I have no idea what I am doing.” Um... isn’t that what most of your videos are? Love them all!
Kind of what I was thinking.
Also it’s the best time to do a video if you’re being authentic about yourself and your channel.
Big upgrade from the window unit I used for the last couple months of summer last year. Mini-split units are becoming more and more popular and I wanted to see what all the hype is about.. definitely way more quiet and convenient, plus it heats as well as cools. I'll post an update after this summer to talk money and savings! What kind of savings have people seen switching to ductless systems?? I'm curious to compare!
try making a shroud cover for the condenser to keep it protected from the sun thus keeping it cooler as well
Amazing job on your install, a couple of things to keep in consideration. If it snows where you are then you should put it on a stand because those units condensate in the winter and defrost. The line set should be on a spiral not on a coil, because coils may trap oil. Curious to know how efficient and economical your unit is. Great video.
You may run into issues in a year or 2. I noticed you installed the linesets with vertical loops coiled up behind the condenser. That’s a big no no. Your causing an oil trap by doing that, this not allowing all the oil to return to the compressor. This will cause problems with the unit, and ultimately shorten the life expectancy
@@travisgaylor6830 Good point! Because the lines are provided at set lengths and could not cut them, how would you remedy? E. I. Coil them on a spiral downwards?
@@ozzya7887 they could have cut them and soldered them back on.
I've watched a half dozen different youtubers install AC, and I could watch a hundred more.
Heat pumps arent really a new thing. In hotter climates heat isnt used much so having electric heat is not that bad. Gas is much cheaper in most states, but obviously he doesn't have gas there and you cant get a split with a furnace anyway.
@@Benji_4 gas used to be quite cheap by me but not so much anymore. Went from a total of $.24/therm to now nearly $1/therm.
This looks great, one tip only, please don't shut off your living room at night to "save" on cost. What happens is the rest of all the mass heats up and the system when you turn it back on has to over compensate so it spikes to get everything to your designed temp. Trust me on this one, either you really want a system that runs like a "taxi" or one that runs like a car on the highway. Taxi's start and stop, highway driving will always be better milage and WAY LESS ware and tear. I really do hope you see this, I have been doing this HVAC / building science for 20 plus years.
I would also add that most require at least 5" clearance from inside wall. When you wrap your last newer bundle the drain should be on the bottom portion to allow for better draining and prevents airlocks. I am not sure where you are but anywhere the temps drop below freezing you should install the unit on a stand so condensation on the outdoor unit during heating won't form a giant block of ice at the base of your unit on a pad.
@@adamradley4407 I’m in the PNW , I have seen that happen up in the higher elevations areas by Mt Hood. Most people here live at around 500’ above sea level and the winters are generally mild, winter design temp is 42, summer is 83. While we do occasionally have lower and higher temps you will see ice dams on ground mounted units. I prefer exterior wall mount for many reasons, easier access to work on, lower maintenance and cleaner look. Good tip though!
👍 10:17. Oil is going to pool up because you coiled the excess vertically. You should've elevated the condenser and coiled them horizontally.
Probably should have coiled them around the unit on the ground then cover with dirt? Would that work? I'm about to go with this system..
DIY as long as you have some HVAC tech’s with you
Seriously huh lol. Wait till EPA pays them a visit
No kidding… 2 hvac techs, Free System, Halfassed Concrete Slab job..
Wtf Mike, why even bother?
@@midntdlight4782 why would epa pay them a visit? they aren't venting any refrigerant
😂😂😂
The HVAC techies were there for the electric work. I am sure MrCool has done all the legal work for their DYI systems.
I'm about to move into a semi fixer-upper house and these videos are very motivating. Knowing I could get something like this done with little experience and a weekend's worth of work is awesome. Thanks man!
I think I'd paint the line covers the exterior wall color, to help them blend.
3:19 "no idea what i'm doing" -Those are the best videos!!!
I did a multi room unit in northern California, it was awesome, the dehumidify really was all I needed 90% of the summer it was great to have the option to keep rooms at different temps. (one thing to note is you cannot mix heating and cooling a the same time.)
so you cant have one head unit in one area on cold, and one on hot ? thanks for info as nobody has ever mentioned this in any video
@@rrsonic2913 - just one caveat is that is per condenser. If you have two separate units they can operate independently but if you have one unit that supports 4 rooms then it can run the fan, dehumidify, along with heating OR cooling in just the rooms you want.
Place rubber absorbing pads under the outdoor unit feet before screwing to concrete. Helps absorb vibration and stop concrete rusting the feet over time. These have been the staple air-conditioning systems in Australia for decades. nice to see the USA catching up.
Catching up? Most American houses already have built in Central Air conditioning to each room. These mini-splits are a great replacement for window units, but window units are only standard in old and/or run down buildings. Typically those in cities that didn't need it for very long.
I installed MRCOOL mini split units (1) 24k and (2) 9k and I cannot be more happier, this last winter I use way less oil and compare with the electricity used i got big savings, now in the summer I’m using so far the dry mode and it cool all the areas so easy, super energy efficient machines, but I think by getting the units separate will save you more than having a multi zone condenser for all the air handlers, individually you get more seers but Multizones less seer therefore less efficiency and more power consumption……overall great investment
what is the noise level of the inside units? Is it acceptable for bedroom use?
I just installed mine in my living room last week. I now have to install my multi-zone ones throughout our bedrooms. This video was super helpful because I wasn't sure how to get one of the air handlers in one of the rooms because there isn't enough room on the exterior wall(giant window). Your video showed something the rest of the videos haven't, and that is bending the lines of the air handler the opposite way they came in. I did not know you could cut out that plastic piece if you needed too. This was amazing to know. I am less stress and more confident in doing this. You have a new subscriber!
Question? How much you spend on it?
we have a house with 3 bedroom leaving-room, dinner room kitchen and a small office& Landry room.
@@patomex76 our house is roughly 1,700 sq ft, I installed a total of 4 air handlers. Our living room is by far the biggest room we have so I bought a unit with just 1 air handler and condenser. It was an 18000 btu and it cooled it off pretty fast. I then installed a unit in each bedroom(3) and they also work fantastic. For those I bought a 27000 btu which is 9k per unit. I spent a total of $4100. It was less because I’m a pro extra member and got a big discount or else it woulda cost around $6000
@@jessegandarilla4472 how its your.bill having ac mini split unit installed.. I have electric basebard heater 220v. It is expensive in winter season looking for install this unit. I already run the wire( renovation) for this time unit in the future but I not sure if I actually save or not in my electricity bill.
@@jaandel1 our highest bill came this month because we’ve been running the heater all day almost non stop. It was $200. Our furnace went out and that’s why we’ve been using them a lot this past month. Our bill usually averages between $80-$100.
Just to clear up the never ending question I keep seeing. I've installed both styles. DIY and standard mini splits. The DIY units have Freon pre charged in the lines with sealed connectors. The vacuum is already pulled on the compressor side. When you open the valves where the lines attach to the outside unit it draws the Freon in from the pre charged cooper lines and your done. Run unit 5 mins in heat and cool cycle and your good to go. The standard units have Freon already in the compressor side but the copper lines have to be built so they will have air in them. They need to have a vacuum pulled and you need the little special connector to attach your gauges. Its like $12 I think. Your pulling the vacuum on the lines and inside unit for I think 30 mins at whatever pressure. The inside unit will make a little hiss sound when you take the caps off which is good. They pull a draw on it and the hiss means it has no leaks. I don't remember exact numbers but its in the book. AC guys know off top they're head. The DIY units have worked perfect for me so far after a few years. The standard units have been perfect also. There is no difference in the cooling abilities between them.
I am definitely going with a Mr. Cool system. I own 2 homes that I am remodeling and I've decided the mini-split heating & AC units are the way to go. I like the flexability of controlling different zones of the house separately. Thanx for the installation video..I have watched several of them on the mini-splits and yours was very well done. 👍
LG makes a mini split with ceiling mounted units.
@@WillieStubbs hi Willie..the reason I prefer the Mr. Cool system is I can install it myself with their pre-charged refrigerant lines.
Can you share more info about you electricity bill
this is somehow my 6th TH-camr to put in a split ac. and I watched all of them theses arnet even informational anymore I'm just enjoying the show
I was seriously surprised how nice you dressed it up. if that was in my front yard I wouldn't mind
"... I probably won't do a youtube video because I have no idea what I'm doing..."
Aw - those are the best videos!
Nice job. Minisplits are indeed very nice. If you live in an area with high humidity there is nothing better for dehumidification since the vast majority of them are variable speed and they can optimize for dehumidification.
the gravel and wooden frame is a great touch. As a landscaper it's always a much easier job to maintain the lawn near the hvac systems that have been designed for not just aesthetics but practicality and safety. good job
It's also worth mentioning, code in some areas will require in offset from the property line. It's not worth risking a notice from the city telling you to move the unit, so check your local regulations.
Finishing TIP for m.split installations:
When finished, PAINT to Match
= Paint all your 'additions' attached on the exterior wall(s) using same-color wall paint of your house. Then they will blend in so that exterior wall will look a great deal less industrial.
Include painting: LineSet Covers, conduit and disconnect box... can even paint wiring.
Note that the gray on the disconnect box is gray PRIMER paint - these are meant to be 'painted in' in order to match surroundings. (Same is true for your inside Circuit Breaker Panels - no reason to leave them gray in the middle of a white wall)
-Cheers
Did that today. Can't even tell its there now.
Just don't goop the hardware with paint lol God forbid you ever have to service it spending 20 mins just to chisel all the paint out of your hardware 🤣
I hope this comment isn't misunderstood as criticism but if I can make a suggestion - put "install" right after "DIY" at the start of the title so it says "DIY install Multi-Zone Ductless Mini Split AC". I definitely don't believe you were trying to clickbait or mislead with the title, but I was definitely expecting a very different video. However, it actually worked out for me as I've not really looked into many ready-made ductless mini-split systems in my quest to convert a window-mount AC into a mini split. I've only really looked into videos of other people that did the same - which I now see was a mistake. There's a lot more optional features for mini-split systems than I had originally assumed... I guess that's why there's such common sayings regarding making assumptions... So, thank you for that. Take it easy...
"DIY." Guy hires an HVAC company to do the entire install.
If you see a channel with LOT of subs, sponsored by a shit company like Squarespace, then 95% of the time its just pure BS.
if you read up on any of the mini splits, they require the lines to be installed under vacuum. They also state if you do not use a licensed AC pro, all warranties are voided.
@@HalProctor Not on these.
@@HalProctor Then don't label the video DIY
@@HalProctor the Mr Cool units apparently do not come with that requirement - a bit different than the rest. My Mitsubishi unit definitely required a licensed AC pro as well.
Could use the hole for a window instead of a stucco patch? Depending on what it’s facing can let a lot of natural light in
The only thing you are missing is a surge protector for your minisplit. You should install a Ditek DTK120/240 surge protector on your cutout switch so that in the event a lightning strike or power company surge happens your sensitive electronic control boards in the minisplit aren't toasted.
I realize not every tiny step is filmed- did you air-seal the interior holes in the wall and water-seal the exterior holes under those flanges?
Here’s a tip on the concrete: after about 2 hours setup time on a pour the size you did, use a rasp to knock down the rough spots and essentially you have a smooth sanded finish before it hardens. Use a level to span across the forms as you go to check for high spots. Sweep off the dust when it’s cured. Good to go.
I hadn't heard of this approach before.
Super late here lmao, but where i live most builders spend at least a couple minutes hitting the boards firmly with a hammer o something once they poured all the concrete when building this kind of slabs and bases. This removes the air bubbles and gaps inside the mix and some water go to the surface, so it has a better finish. Isnt this done in America??maybe the concrete is just so different?
Who saw all the new videos coming later from this channel in the whiteboard 😎😎😎 excited
Maybe prime and paint that exterior white plastic conduit when you patch the stucco?
My sister lives in a old house no ac and right now no heat. (Thieves stole all copper they could before she moved in) im moving in with her and think 1st thing is upgrading her electric before looking at these. Thanks for this.
Do not spool refrigerant lines in a Vertical plane, the lubricating oil will eventually get trapped in bottom of Suction loop,. compressor will stave for lube oil. make loops in Horizontal plane so oil can keep flowing.
I'm no HVAC engineer, but that oil has to travel an 8-foot stretch straight up the wall.
How could it do that if it's not capable of going up and down some one-foot loops?
Just wondering.
Thanks.
@@Vandalfoe I believe the oil mixes with the gas and has no problem when traveling up, but when coming down, it tends to "pool" on vertical loops and get trapped there slowly, over time
This is awesome and the funny part before I wacth commercial of mr. Cool
Been wondering where you've been. Love your videos!
I saw ur ad on TH-cam it was cool i gave it a thumbs up . 😁
The MrCool units are top notch. Just make sure you dont put any additional pressure on the lines when installing to the condenser (the outside unit with the fan). I have 2 of them and couldnt be more happier. Plus the super efficiency is a bonus as it saves me tons on my electric bill . Overall great video!!
How much did you save on your electric bill?
How much do you save did you use heatpump
@@jaandel1 My 2 ton Pioneer Minisplit cost me about $1.00 a day or less to run full tilt. I have a 22 seer unit.
I know you had some Pro's come and help you but just a couple things to keep in mind (From another Pro)
- Those communicating and power wires to the head unit are not UV rated, you really want to run those in some type of shielding (i.e. Sealtight or Liquidtight)
- Those temp guns measure surface temp, not air temp, which is different and key when trying to gauge a true temp split.
- Hooking up gauges to mini-splits to assess sub-cool and super-heat is pointless unless the system has a "charge" mode which can be enabled to force the system into 100% capacity
One of the reasons these inverter mini-splits are so efficient is because they almost NEVER run @ 100% capacity. And if it's not then you have Accumulators and or Receivers that store refrigerant and release it back into the appropriate circuit/ working in conjunction with the metering device (Usually an EEV) to maintain a target SH. These systems seldom run long enough, and at a consistent enough capacity, to accurately read SB or SH. This is why a lot of the ductless mini-split systems don't even have a high side service port, just a low side to add refrigerant, which is only necessary if the line set is over a certain length, and in these cases, the added charged is calculated and weighed in via length of line set.
** I say high side (Discharge) and Low Side (suction) out of habit. On this system the EEV is in the condenser so both lines are technically "Low pressure" (This is why both must be insulated) But as a reference point it serves its purpose. **
On a side note, please do a one year update! I only ask because I myself have replaced at least a half dozen of these MRCOOL with name brand ductless mini-split systems do to these MRCOOL's failing. All for loss of charge, but in different areas of the refrigeration circuit.
I'm not a pro, but I have installed two of these (single zone) Mr Cools. One of them has been trouble free for about 3-4 years. The other one had multiple problems, and I was sent warrantied replacements for both the wall unit and the condenser. Without the 5 year warranty, I would not recommend these. As long as you're ok maybe having to swap them out in those 5 years, it's hard to beat the deal.
I just installed one at my Barndo, can I have a licenses HVAC guy maintain / clean it every 6 months? Would that be advisable or do-able ?
@@syclone1012 You can. But they are fairly maintenance free when installed correctly. Keeping the filters cleans at the head unit and the condenser coil clean is really all you need. Other than that the only other common failure on head units are the condensate pumps(not used on every install/set up)
There’s also certain manufacturer specific issues that involve electrolysis but most of those issues have been addressed by now.
My Mr. Cool mini split is going on 2 years strong, not a single problem with it. Solid unit for heat and A C.
Can you share what the wattage draw / electrical costs are?
@@allen35315 cannot provide information, my entire house is electric everything. I bought the 24k unit 19 seer for a 1100ft SQ house, I can heat the house up 12° in about 6 minute's in turbo heat mode though....it's glorious. My refrigerant lines did fail though. Poor design by Mr. Cool, the first couple feet were braided and rotted/failed, I replaced the lines and refilled with 410a. It looks as if Mr. Cool corrected the "braided lines" and are now copper from outside unit to indoor unit. I paid 700 bucks after a 800 dollar rebate from my electric company vs. 8000 dollars for a Mitsubishi unit installed.
@@f4fake22 Do you have just the one air handler installed in that 1100 sf house? How do you get warm/cool air in to the smaller rooms like bathrooms and bedrooms?
@@marlaplunk2833 just one, I went with the 24k unit so it's overkill. Back bedrooms still need to use baseboard heat on occasion.
I remember back in the day (on the Modern Maker Podcast), you'd mention that your long-term dream was to take on a bigger project, like a house. It's crazy to see that come true! Great content, as always, and killer edits! (still watching the video, just wanted to get my comment in early, haha).
Thanks a million brother!! Been a Long road but I'm pumped to have everything moving in the right direction... I'm demo'ing and remodeling the bedroom starting next week and can't wait to go room to room!! 🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@ModernBuilds You're crushing it man! I'm sure there are TONS of viewers like myself that have followed along for a while, and are super excited about those future projects!!!
Is this the dude that did the attic theater room build where he dry walled over a window?
We have a window like that from a previous owner except it's a wood panel behind a cupboard.
TURNED OUT 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I mean, ❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️
Awesome project, Mike! Quick question: didn't the unit come with rubber feet to decrease transferring vibrations and noise?
It's so quite that it doesn't emit that much vibration. Mine doesn't.
Bill, I’m one of the guys in the video and I own an air conditioning company. I can tell you for sure the outdoor unit is virtually silent so no additional vibration isolation is needed.
I installed the DIY single unit a year ago and love it. It simply works perfect. The rubber feet are recommended when mounting the unit to the wall using a bracket to reduce vibration to the house. They are not needed when mounting to a standalone concrete pad. As others mentioned it is ridiculously quiet.
@@Shadetreecruiser Steve that makes perfect sense to me. The pad doesn’t connect to the house so it can’t transfer vibration. If you did have a pad that was connected then I might add the rubber pads.
The compressor is mounted with rubber grommets. There is no vibration.
Wow having the condensation water plants is sooo smart makes me want to try that at home
I like the rough texture of the cement pad! Great job on everything, looks great. Thanks for the video!
What you recommended when install split heater ac unit into a big house with 5 rooms that have no duck work at all. Is better to do split system or do the duck work. It gets below zero here sometimes
The theory behind the mini split is slow constant airflow. So turning them on and off will actually make them less efficient. Running them slow and constant is the key to efficiency.
That is correct, as I install them
So.. did you cover up the holes in the walls? No worry about water damage or bugs? Is there a seal or something on the wall connection
I think caulking on that flange would seal it up
I hope you decided to record the patch job. We wanna see it
Awesome video. My OCD now needs the follow up video where you repaint the wall and patch the outside stucco lol
A) Cool Air provides rubber dampening pads for each of the four corners wear you bolt it down. They should have been used. Vibration on that hard pad will be tough on the unit. B) You can't water things with the condensation. The water is full of impurities and can kill plants. C) The key to this install was the great electrician.
How is the water full of impurities?
I agree. Plus, mine put about about a cup of condensation per month. Not worth the effort to water anything.
Did you pull vacuum from the lines to get rid of the moisture that exists in the ambient air? In my projects I had kept the vacuum pump running for at least half an hour before letting the refrigerant in. Maybe that’s not needed where you live? Looks pretty dry out there 🙂
It’s been a year since posting this video. Any word on the electricity bill? I’m considering getting a couple of these for a house remodel. Very little to no snow in my area but a lot of great comments of things to keep in mind, mainly have an HVAC guy handy and don’t leave extra line coiled up. But, I’m very interested in how this impacted the electric bill. I can’t find anyone that has one who shared the difference it makes on the electric bill, good or bad.
Just the info I'm looking for also.....
This installation is already scrapped since it is garbage
@@MarcelHVACno it's not. why, is mr cool diy installation reducing your labor profits? lol you just have to make sure to follow the install manual and be up to code. it is doable for those already experienced with electrical as well as fixing things around the house.
Finallyyyy he uploaded
there is a tool that lets you make flare fittings so you can cut the copper to the perfect length so you dont leave it bunched up and create an oil trap that is bad for the unit. surprised the HVAC techs didnt have one....
You're supposed to leave it coiled up..
@@rogerfar it traps the oil. Over time it won't run right...
The problem is that these are precharged linesets. They have special fittings.
@@MyGoogleTH-cam exactly and the fittings would still be used but you'd still have to cut the excess copper. the flaring tool just flares the copper after you cut to the length you need and then you thread the flaring caps on the valves like normal.
@@daffron101
Then it's not diy. That is the point of the lineset.
Is there any reason you didn’t put the condenser closer to the wall?
It's hard for me to be sure without being there but I'm 95% positive you have a Zinsco electric panel and if so, it needs to be replaced if you want to avoid an electrical fire...
It's a Sylvania/GTE Panel. Label on lower right corner. This model could be the earlier ones associated with Zinsco. Later models use Cutler Hammer breakers.
@@lippru sylvania/gte labeled panels can be zinsco. The breakers have the distinctive zinsco colors
@@lippru here’s some information for you. I’m a certified professional inspector. inspectapedia.com/electric/GTE_Sylvania_Zinsco_Identification.php
@@JesseStarrPhoto Thanks for the link. I am a retired union electrician. I was involved in replacing these breakers and panels back in the '80's.
Don’t need to vaccum Line set ?
I’m interested in what the electric bill is going to be as well.
Using the draining water from the indoor units to water plants is an amazingly smart idea
the electrical cables that feed the system were very very badly installed, you can see they cut cables to reduce the diameter so each cable can fit in one side of the holder, bad method! you can use an electrical terminal and use the full diameter of the cable and reduce the heat in the cable and consume less energy.
Hmm. That's what I did. Considering this only uses 5amps how is it going to generate heat?
omg you have emboldened my husband and I! I think we'll try this!!
Points the laser thermometer at the AC to determine how quick it’s cooling the room 🤔
exactly what i was thinking. haha amazing how my hotplate increases my "room" temperature moments after lighting.
If you are only running one air handler out of 5 connected, will the condenser run full or will it toggle down?
FYI, you can’t use pressures on these systems. They’re critically charged. It will give you an idea but keep in mind everything modulates according to the load.
i was wondering why they were testing it when the lines are precharged but i had the video on background and was multitasking
Awesome ac unit installation super pro
These units still need to be vacuumed by a professional. You can use the precharged lines but it lessens the life.
@Dyeffson Dorsaint that's what tried to do at first. Best have a professional do it. You really don't want to buy another unit two years later.
@@Ampacityelectric haha that's exactly what the tech told me after he helped vacuum my lines. So far I've had mine for 2 years and I already had to charge it once.
@@Deckardrick007 It is NOT TRUE that these units need to be recharged in a year or two. If you had to recharge it is because you had a leak .
@Dyeffson Dorsaint if you coil the lines then you might as well not do the rest of the job right.
No they don’t idk why everyone keeps saying that. Put one in and see for yourself like I did.
Those yellow magnetic stud finders are the best. Cheap an effective
Bob: What are you doing in my house?
Also Bob: Cool dog
How long are the lines? Seems like it would be difficult to install another indoor unit in another room on the opposite side of the house.
Those loops in the line are going to act like traps and trap the oil in the system
Should I mount the outside unit in my basement in Big Bear? I think lack of snow and a constant 50-60 temp should help with power consumption and longevity? It has four 3” x 12” vents
Nice work on the install Mike, looks great! 👍🏽
Great job brother 🙏🏼
Great video Mike, I think the concrete pad looks fine being un-troweled. Nice work on the install.👍
The thing I don’t understand is if you have a 3-4 zone system and bedrooms spaced pretty far apart, how do all of the heads connect to the condenser? Do you have to somehow run every unit’s line outside to be individually connected to the condenser? Or is there like some point where the units’ connections can meet and reuse the same condenser connection?
Missed an important step on the video: when you open the valves to the line sets you must ALSO open the master valves located above all of the places where the zone line sets connect on the outdoor unit
.. do this prior to turning on the unit. Otherwise a great video.
Nice vid, the rebar was an overkill though😂
my dude im not hating .... but i dont think u need all that rebar ??? lol
Its good to have rubber spacers between the outdoor unit's legs and the concrete
I'm excited to see how this build holds up, and the savings it could bring you! The simplicity of install seemed so well designed, and I will definitely be checking out this company. One thing that concerned me while watching your testing of the connections with snoop (soapy water). It's fine when those lines are positively pressured like they were, but if you ever run into issues and are troubleshooting the unit, be sure to never snoop a section of refrigerant line you have a vacuum on. If you have a leak and the line is negatively pressured, you'll ruin (and need to replace) the filter dryer, and could possibly corrode the inside of the tubes and damage the compressor. Anyways, great video as always, and I hope that you do show the stucco work!
Great tip!
Excellent! This will solve an issue for me!
5:34 Square to the earth? Square. To. The. Earth? I’m sorry?
LOL
LOL
bahahaha
Great job! Liked a lot the condense outlet. What for is the white hanging cable in 8:33? Seems obsolete. Still visible after finishing touches.
if mrcool wants to send me one for free id be happy to do a video for them as well.
So, you only have 2 rooms in your house? What about the other rooms? Is this system just a add on to a central unit?
Didn't talk about sizing?? Can't just throw in a AC system with out sizing it correctly
I get the precharged linesets but alot of manufacturers of "duct-less" have minimum requiments on line set length, coiling the line set like that in the back is incorrect an is NOT recommended by any manufacturer that I've seen, creates a oil trap.
Also the box he built is not recommended beacuse most manufacturers have distances requirements for the outdoor coil (condenser)
Also, no torque requirements on the lineset connections?
No feet for the Outdoor coil? All heat pumps must be raised tobe drained to prevent ice daming in winter.
Also, No surge protector on the disconnect? Would be nicer if it was on the other side of the outdoor coil but hey you have one.
Do not install this yourself, call a HVAC pro, get 3 different bids and don't go with the lowest one. Plus most HVAC pros have warranties.
But hey that's a sweat condesate drain...
How big the slab? How long is pipe line to compressor to wall unit? Do you know what is the difference between the Generations Mr Cool? I am thinking get 3rd Generation.
Some of the electrical connections at the Condenser Unit looked like they could’ve been done better and I would’ve foamed the wall penetrations to avoid critters and better sealing but other than that these DIY A/C units look like a good option for a Garage. If it breaks in 3-5 years who cares.
Thank you very much for your time and posting. Great job. I haven't decided on two 12K BTU systems or one 24K BTU 2 Zone system for a mobile home w/ 840 sq. ft. Thanks again.
Anyone excited for his TH-cam Roadmap teaser on his whiteboard? 😂
You can save quite a bit of money buy buying a brand other than Mr. Cool. They are $400-500 more with the only difference is the lines are charged so they don't need to be vacuumed. You can buy a good enough vac and manifold set for $120 and do it yourself. Plus if your installing more then 1 unit you can use the vac over and over while buying the cheaper units. Also you can save a little money by using a non-fused disconnect, since it's on a breaker it doesn't really need an additional fuse.
It’s really not the best idea for your line sets to be coiled in the upright position… all of the oil will drain out of the compressor and get trapped.
Hmm, that makes sense. So you’d recommend running your coils on the horizontal instead?
How does it heat ? Electrical heating coils in the air handlers ?
“I’m probably not going to make a TH-cam video cause I have no idea what I’m doing”
That hasn’t stopped you before.
Lmaoooo "this much water will never come out of this system so its fine" one humid day is all you need.
Damn wish Mr Cool could be cool and hook me up with a split system 😉
it still baffles me that window type AC is still used in the US...
What’s baffling about it?
@@specialestness I have seen a window unit in this part of the world since 2000
@@neurodaemon where is this part of the world? Mini splits are extremely expensive here in the US and not every house has central air. Most of the US gets hot enough to justify AC.
@@specialestness in malaysia..
It's because mini splits prices are much higher than the rest of the world.
What did you use to hide the copper ac lines coming out of the house?
You had the pros there should’ve cut and flared that line set
You would need to drain and then refill the lines - the whole point of the system is to avoid doing that part.
@@idrisddraig2 the lines aren't precharged only the unit.
@@coreyfournier3345 Not true. The Mr Cool system has pre-charged line sets.
@@coreyfournier3345 . Apparently Mr Cool comes with pre-charged line sets with a special fitting on each end that keeps them sealed until connected. See www.homedepot.com/p/MRCOOL-25-ft-3-8-in-x-5-8-in-Line-Set-for-DIY-24K-and-36K-DIY25-3858/314412417