How to Install a Ductless Mini-Split Air Conditioner | This Old House
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2014
- This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey explains how to install a mini-split air conditioner. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Richard traveled to Tampa, Florida to help a homeowner find a cooling solution for his garage. The homeowner used the garage as a workshop in the summer months, but said that it was too hot and humid in there to work comfortably. To solve the problem, Richard and local expert David Zimmerman installed a "mini-split" air conditioner. The system uses no ductwork. Instead, an air-handler unit is mounted inside on a wall, and the condenser unit is mounted outside.
Shopping List for How to Install a Mini-Split Air Conditioner:
- mini-split air conditioner [amzn.to/2vyimyj]
- ground pad [amzn.to/2Veahyb], for supporting condenser unit
- 1-inch-diameter PVC pipe and assorted fittings [amzn.to/2WkL6q7], used as condensate drain line
- PVC primer [amzn.to/2GQcbe7] and cement [amzn.to/2vxt6x3], used to join together PVC drain line 5. armor-sheathed electrical cable [amzn.to/2PKKGH1], provides line-voltage power to the air conditioner
- low-voltage wire [amzn.to/2LkaPOu], sends signal from air conditioner to condenser
Tools for How to Install a Mini-Split Air Conditioner:
- drill/driver [amzn.to/2UR4vxf]
- 1 _-inch hole saw [amzn.to/2IVdvjo], used to make hole for refrigerant lines
- level [amzn.to/2ZVAu3l], used to level pad that supports condenser unit
- drywall saw [amzn.to/2WjOQIz] or jigsaw [amzn.to/2PKAgar], used to cut hole in interior wall
- hammer [amzn.to/2ZTYvYy]
- pliers [amzn.to/2Vbozzj]
- wire strippers [amzn.to/2LkgVhP]
The "Mr. Slim" ductless mini-split air conditioner was manufactured by Mitsubishi Electric [metahvac.com/].
It was Installed by David Zimmerman, Zimmerman's Air Conditioning & Heating, Inc.
Additional assistance was provided by Ryan Hansen, electrician, Hansen Electric, Inc.
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How to Install a Ductless Mini-Split Air Conditioner | This Old House
/ thisoldhouse - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Excellent walkthrough. The tools, time invested and know how demonstrated have made me confident enough to hire a professional
I grew up watching This Old House. I used to watch it as a kid to pass the time, as a young teenager I found myself using knowledge and techniques from this show. As an adult, I now thoroughly enjoy watching these gentlemen repair or install just about anything. I hope this show is on forever and I intend to leave PBS in my will.
I learned something with this clip. I learned to have professionals install my AC units, lol.
+phili878 hahahahaha I HAVE NONE OF THIS GEAR!!!
+phili878 At first I was like: "I can probably do that" but quickly it turned into "No way am I even going to attempt what they're doing."
***** hahaha how wonderful
...or not
Don't most unit come already charged with freon? I think the pressure test is a little more complicated if one does not have all the supplies and tools to do the test.
The design makes this AC a possible alternative to ductless DYI systems. It works great. The remote control could be more visual aid oriented like a backligh design. Is impossible to see the lcd at least for me. Easy install th-cam.com/users/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5Tation. Came on time . Great comfort around the house 5 🌟 again. Follow mfg instructions for care and all and this should be the only AC you need for those of is that don't live in new homes with central AC
I install these in Japan, have for a while. We don't test with the nitrogen, instead we make the connections and with the valves still closed on the compressor unit, we pull a vacuum with the vacuum pump, let it pump down for a while, and watch the gauges to see if it holds vacuum, it if does you are good to go, no need to lug around a nitrogen bottle and regulator. Nothing wrong with the nitrogen bottle pressure test, just a different way to do it. One more thing, once the lines are attached and you have pulled a vacuum in them, they are ready for the coolant. kind of one step less this way.
These systems are great, really like them.
Cheers!
0:00 - Ooh, I'd love to do this for my garage!
0:30 - Yep, this looks doable, maybe next weekend?
2:00 - Hmm, this might be a big job ...
2:40 - Oh, I would have probably messed that up and crimped that line.
3:10 - "Flaring tool?" What is that?
4:40 - Testing for leaks with nitrogen? Who are they kidding? I can't do this!
5:30 - Yep, this is why you hire a professional to do this job. Not even remotely tempted to try this myself any more.
I had the same.exact.thought...in the same exact sequence🤔
Its actually easier than you think 🤔!
To think all this took less than 8 minutes.... lmfao
Testing for leaks is not complicated. -Hook your gauge hoses up to the access stubs of the service ports
-hook your middle hose (the yellow hose) to a regulator on your nitrogen tank
-make sure your gauge valves are closed, open up the nitrogen tank
-adjust the regulator to about 300 psi
-open your high and low side gauges slowly until the pressure on your gauges reads about 250 psi on high (red) and above 120psi or "retard" on your low gauge (blue)
-check for leaks using soap bubbles at all connection points, try to see if you can hear any hissing as well
-once you confirm no leaks, close your nitrogen tank, and unscrew the hoses from the manifold (just enough to purge nitrogen from system)
After that you just reconnect your hoses tightly to the gauge, hook up your vacuum pump and evacuate to 500 microns (about an hour. 30 mins with a 3/8 vacuum hose and port)
Think you can do it? I do refrigeration for a living but ductless systems are literally child's play. If you follow the proper procedure you can do it yourself.
You can get ones with pre charged line sets you wont have to do any of that
I helped our HVAC guy install one today. A more complicated configuration than this but still very straightforward and kind of fun.
I really love to watch the differences concerning installing this unit between the USA and here in Holland. We are not allowed to use the flare nuts. So we remove the flare connection from the inner unit, and braze with silver solder the copper pipes directly on the inner unit. The communication cable between inner and outer unit must be shielded. For the electrical supply, we must use covered cable (not the 3 seperate cores). The safety switch must be from PVC . Metal junction boxes or switches are not allowed. I like the concrete foundation where the outer units is mounted on. But because of laws here, we are not allowed to carry stuff more than 25 kilos (approx 50 pounds), so we mount the unit on a console on the wall, or (when installed on a roof) recycled plastic beams. Oh, BTW, we use a 300 mm (approx 1 foot) 60mm (2,5") hollow drill saw, to cut the hole from inside to outside in one move. Greets from the Netherlands (in Europe).
I’ve learned over the years , there’s this stuff called Nylog . It’s pretty much a liquid gasket that’s compatible with 410A and r22 . It comes in handy when making your flare connections and I will stand by it
That guys growing hella buds now
Gives a very fair idea of how easily a split a/c can be installed, great job guys.
Ductless split. Not split
the professionals make it look easy but it really isnt
Did you know that a masonry bit doubles as a re-bar finder?
Yep, but then it quickly is not a masonry bit anymore...
And arm breaker?
Mine chew through rebar no problem.
And today I learned every tool has a built-in in hammer, except a hammer.
😆 always! but on tv they magically vanish
Great video ! I had no idea that there were ductless air conditioners. Thanks for posting this !
This guy made that complete installation look soooo Easy.....hes probably installed like 100 of these.
Nice video. Thanks. We have a mini-split in my home office space and we’re considering one for a fixed mobile home we have down south.
After watching a couple of TOH videos about mini-split systems I now know why installation costs are so high. That is a lot of work putting in one of these systems and what it means to have qualified installers. Thank you.
Ductless split units are actually usually quick easy money. As long as your not placing the heads on inside walls. The tools however to complete this job are roughly $1200.00.
In India the installation cost is $20 lol
@@Dave-so7sf Mr. Cool has a DIY kit with precharged line sets that don't require any of the fancy tools and can be installed by anyone.
lol what? Mini splits are very easy to install.
No, they are high because you are getting screwed. An even moderately competent person could do this in a day.
Great video ! Although if its taught me anything, it's get a pro to come and do the install - Looks worth the extra for the lack of hassle and worry.
A true professional in work!
Mice gonna love that outside tunnel
Good to know I can do this myself in seven minutes!
So convenient that there happened to be an electrical box right where the outside unit was placed.
Colin Costine 👉 It is call planning, or thinking ahead, something you do not do apparently.🤦♂️
theyre the ones that put the box there.. it’s called a disconnect. it’s to power the outside unit Lol just one wire
Always a good thing to keep the car cool and comfy
Not particularly useful in the Winter, unless it also heats and the garage is properly insulated.
I was waiting for a time elapse temp verification. I wanted to see you guys cooled off. MR ZIMMERMAN ---->Excellent, thorough demonstration walk through. You are truly a PRO!
Looks easy. Want to come over to my house next?
Just look at the airco installers section of the yellow pages and dial one of the numbers. Not so difficult. Or save some (or a lot of) money and DIY everything except the gas lines.
Nice instalation procedure right there, clean-made and functional.
Thank you for getting me more srv calls on fails!
Good to see a man that knows his trade.
Also, make sure to use 45 degree flare tool, that Ritchie should be okay. Use compressor POE oil on seat of flare before tightening, otherwise you may rip and burr the copper (especially on the quarter inch lines) Also you should torque the nuts to the specified ft/lb for the line set size for the same reason. This is where I see errors on 90% of installations I get calls to fix when people become frustrated and no longer want to deal with the original installer.
Also copper pipe used in airconditioners is a soft copper. Much different/flexible to the copper that your water runs through. So it is quite easy to bend with your hands without kinking the line.
I enjoy working on small projects around my house.... Thanks to videos like these I can watch and get a better understanding.
Great video thanks for the upload guys.
My grandpa has the same unit in his workshop!
Congrats?
How about some cavity wall insulation?
My dad wanted to get a small portable AC and I said that now adays they sell real split air conditioners for under 1000 bucks and that I would gladly come and install it with him. This video confirms what I imagined what the install would be like just looking at the unit. If we get the electricity ready in advance Im sure we can start after lunch and be ready by dinner time.
Awesome!!!! Thank you guys! God blessed you☺️
Thumbs up this unit saved our asses in Afghanistan..one day it was 108 outside turned this puppy all the way down and I found my camel pack in my room slushy. It also has a dry (dehumidifier) setting...in the winter it snowed in the morning sun evaporated snow lead to humidity in the morning. Perfect for garage storage. POG life
A/C in the military... never heard of it.
@@damone70
We had it. I had window ac units installed in the wall.of my chu.
@@dam11232 Things change I guess, I'm from Gulf War era.
@@damone70
Yeah. Were spoiled
I love when Richard comes running in after they actually do work
Nice work gentlemen.
Useful and nice video I appreciate your work.
These units have been in other parts of the world for 20-30 years!
Japan is way ahead of the US when it comes to ductless mini-split a/c’s. Four to five decades ahead of us to be uhm, exact.
We're victims of home improvement shows: Oh TV, you make things look so easy. The electrical lines magically appeared right next to the outdoor unit, all the right tools are readily available at hand, all fittings, nuts, bolts fit perfectly together, and there are plenty of extra helping hands available to lift and level the parts. Then inspired by watching videos like this, the average Joe decides to take on a project, just running the electrical wiring and installing an extra circuit breaker is an adventure on its own. Rule of Thumb: For every one minute of video it will take one hour actual time. This project shown in a 7 minute video, will take 7 hours for average Joe, if they're lucky.
If you're an idiot and below average, yes.
The average Joe will be screaming to the parts as he goes because things don't fit like in the video.
You could do this project yourself, but it's probably best to leave it to a professional. You're probably looking at a couple days work, one day to run the electrical and pour the pad for the condenser, and the second to hook everything up and test.
The install featured in the video isn't that hard... the panel was right next to the install so if you didnt want to run the wires in the wall you could just run a conduit outside the wall
7 hours, that's awfully ambitious lol. I'd expect to double or triple that figure just for the concrete base that goes under the outside unit.
Very helpful. Thank you!
"Idiot-proof."
Challenge accepted!
+bigchicago111 we love cold air in the summer!
Seems that is very easy to do this by yourself, but I prefer to call a plumber :) #rfzstt
More POWER!!!
*sponsored by Binford tools
Damn it ain't idiot proof! Ma, call 'em 'bulances I got my all tide up.
I twisted the red, black, and green wires together and put a wire nut on them. So..question. Is this thing supposed to be smoking like this?
One quick question, how did you know where to drill hole from outside that's perfectly aligned with the hole made inside? thanks
the corer has a drill bit thats pointy, when he went through the first wall, he kept it level and kept on drilling with the bit and not the corer. Once hes outside, you put the bit in the hold and core again.
use zip ties than tape
You can buy 18" masonry drill bits that will go all the way through.
we use a long drill bit to make the center hole throuth all the wall then you use your hilti with a guide , once the Hole is start you remove the guide and you drill, you have to finish on the outside to make a good finish, you also have to dril in a angle on the bottom to protect from rain , sorry for my bad english lol
Ramas measure high and length Inside then do the same outside
Looks good, nice work guys.
I have a Mitsu heater/AC in my garage. LOVE IT!!!
I love this old house!! Awesome guys! Stoney Ridge Farmer channel is your #1 fan!
Stoney Ridge Farmer mjjjjfgggu
These guys are in oil burner country so are very familiar with flare connections. For those that are not, the installation manual says to put a little oil on the flare surfaces and has torque specifications. Special torque wrenches are sold at Mitsubishi distributors. Don't put the insulation over the connections until leak checked!
I don't recall seeing the extremely important step of evacuation of the lineset and evaporator. That's how you get that nitrogen out otherwise it will be a big bubble of gas going through the system and will reduce cooling capacity and may cause other problems.
I was noticing that they didn't put oil on the flare nuts as well. I believe they quickly said they pulled a vac, it would have been nice to see a micron gauge reading and have that pointed out as these systems are very reactive to any type of non condensables or impurities in the lines. Other than that great little video
I've been installing instruments with various tubing for over 40 years and no one ever uses flared fittings. Most if not all jobs they are not approved. If a piece of equipment comes in with flared fittings, we throw it away and replace it with compression fittings, usually Swagelok.
Yeah that hole vacuum pump thing!! Good luck homeowners
Wow, great job
A $10 bottle of Nylog would really make me feel more confident in those compression fittings. Had the smallest leak in a custom a/c line in a compression fitting for my truck, never knew what Nylog was but once I found out I evacuated the system and put it on everything. No more leaks
Expert installers have to check the seals before releasing the gas, which is what the nitrogen step was for. One can use the soap test or rent an ultrasound leak detector if they do it themselves, but it is illegal to do a DIY in the EU without a certificate.
Wow, the indoor unit wired itself up!
it conects to the outdoor unit, witch is where it gets power.
Great job, I'm going to give this job a go
Thanks
Just what I wanted to know.
You guys make it look so easy, you need to come here and install in my house!🤓 ✌ lol
I would think thy would leak check fittings be for insulating them and taping up!
+William Powell Most good quality fittings are really well engineered these days to minimize the chances of leaks. But yeah, I guess its still good practice to check anyway.
They did a leak test with nitrogen gas at 300 psi held ok.
Shouldn't is the operative word here.
It is impossible to properly insulate the pipework when it's all connected up unless you cut the lagging on which looks shit!! Not to mention if your pressure test holds it's more effective than any leak spray especially on a larger system doing a pressure test is quicker and easier than leak spraying every connection
William Powell
You do.
You don’t fully insulate until you’ve peak-tested the fittings.
As a matter of fact, you are supposed to use a torque wrench to tighten the fittings just right.
These systems work with R-410A refrigerant; the pressures can reach up to 400psi on the high side. You bet that will leak if you only hand tighten the fittings.
More importantly, they need to vacuum test the system. Pressure test alone does not guarantee the system will work fine. Moisture must be removed and if the micron gauge does not hold less than 500 microns for at least two minutes, there might be a small leak.
I’m convinced! I need Dave Zimmerman in my life! Lol
You guys are fantastic love y’all mane
These are the typical AC units in Thailand. Most houses do not have central air there.
I wish I could do this work myself and save me money.
You can. If you live in Oregon or Washington. The Heat Pump Store has DIY. www.theheatpumpstore.com
said site references not a single DYI link
Check again... Top bar second row DIY with assistance.
You going to buy a vacuum pump, nitrogen bottle, and regulator, a flaring tool
power tools drill bits, that will really save you money
@@charliebecker4417 Plus I did not see anything about the electrical lines need and I think this Unit is 220VAC?
I love the way the service discount magically appears, with all the wiring done back to the electric panel, the magic of television I suppose. LOL
Thanks for uploading
nice work although i wouldn't bend copper with my hands , i'll use a bender for that ,good to see fell
ow a/c techs on youtube man great work
In the full version of the episode he mentioned that there's an internal strain relief type device under the insulation to stop it from kinking.
you'll be surprised copper is amazingly soft and will kink at moments notice ,i too went to school for this ,and i work in the field so i know a bit
yeah that will help ,but i always say best have the tools to make life easier, work smart not hard
There is no way He did not flatten that copper pipe
You can hand bend smaller line if you are careful.
These units are cheap and inexpensive in Puerto Rico. Come in all different sizes, wireless, etc. Compared to regular a/c units that are either window mounted, swamp coolers (which are horrible) or your standard central a/c house units. Compared to the prices that they want to charge in Fresno, CA for a/c & inverter plus install. We are thinking of buying one here on the Island and taking it with us back to Cali, and doing a self install, for the pool house. They quoted me $2500 just for the install in Fresno, CA. :( It would be cheaper for me to hire a technician here in Puerto Rico and flying him out to Fresno for the install, LOL These types of units are great for Older Homes that don't have ducts installed and safer that a window install.
Yes, the HVAC industry is ripping a lot of people off. What a shame. Its industry run, as they dont want these units to be used. They are putting other companies that are already fat and overweight on a diet. lol. The cheapest I was quoted with no elec work was $750, me supplying the unit. If it was $300-500 maybe worth it. But tools($200-250) and a few hours of reading watching learning is worth doing, and installing it right. Now you have disinfo not only in news, but in industry, as I see hvac people posting wrong info. Very sad.
@@philindeblanc They don't want you to know how efficient and easy it is to do it yourself! I just installed one in my 12×24 shed and my friends are ordering them now for me to install. They are wonderful in every way. They tried to charge me 2000 to 4000 which made me go to work researching and wow what I found out. I can do the DISCONNECT box now. Don't doubt yourself, you can do this.
@@starlondon7547 I actually got it installed for $300 including vacumming the line and electrical for my 220v unit . Not bad. I would have to buy a pump and some tools that would be about $100 anyway.
@@philindeblanc You got a Blessing ! If you look long enough there's somebody with the skills.
When I was young I liked watching Bob villa now I'm older I watch these shows and I see it always require a contractor or trade professional to do the work this mini split in 2020 is a d.i.y install if you order the 12v or 110v unit online. I installed mine last year with my neighbor it took about 2 hrs everything comes in the kit. With the freon installed just like they did it. My unit cost $400 but I seen them go up as high as $1100 for the d.i.y mini split there great units with warranty.
The HVAC tech was on point !
I hope its low voltage not high :) That twisted cable under ground terminal is nightmare :) The hand bend of refrigerant pipe is real pro skill.
It is 240 VAC single phase. When they say "high voltage" they mean more than 12, 24, 48 Volts, etc.
Great video! I always wondered what the extent of work was involved, installing this mini-split air conditioners. I had two installed in my condo in Thailand.
kksd2 We stayed in CM a couple of years ago and the owner of the house we rented told us that it didn't cost that much to install his split unit. How much did it cost you?
I purchased two Daikin® min units (I believe I paid $570 for ea air conditioner units (Evaporator / Condenser / installation) There were other units that were cheaper (which also includes installation) I've had them for over 10 years
@@kksd2How life in Thailand? Hear it’s great for relaxation.
Those units are great. I'm in Egypt and had one installed last year, easy to install. So I said to myself that I'm going to get one when I return to the USA. Well the cost in Egypt with installation cost me about $450 US dollars. Just check out the price online in the USA and that's for the unit only, do it yourself. Keep your filter clean.
good work guys
I like TOH, but many videos are less "How to do X," than "How to have X installed by someone else."
Can this a do it yourself project? It seems so simple.
Stanly
Some brands are diy ready. They will indicate it in the description. Mr Cool makes DIY systems.
@Fence Estimates haha no plans to install anytime soon...
Thanks for the imformative video
Great Vid guys
Air conditioning has sure gotten more simple.
Shena L Is this similar to your system if it is I think I could have installed it in a half day.
Not when you start messing with 16 seer - 25 seer units.. things are actually becoming more complicated
not really it's still the same if done correctly by the book The only difference is R22 used to be pump down to 700 microns and 410A is 500 microns. and of course maybe the flare fittings instead of brazing.
I need job
Whatapp no 923456363495
Even though this is a new installation your evaporator was open to the atmosphere, so when you do your final evacuation be sure to use a Micron Gauge and pull the evaporator down to 500 microns then let it set for 20 minutes to make sure you don't see an increase in pressure. Some flare connection leaks that don't show up under a nitrogen pressure test may show up under a vacuum test.
George Crabtree evacuation is a necessary step isn't it? This video was helpful in showing how easy installation can be...but I was hoping to see this part that you mentioned.
T T if you do a TH-cam search for evacuating a refrigeration or air conditioning system using a vacuum pump and micron gauge I'm sure there will be some good videos. It's also recommended to use a micron gauge in conjunction with your manifold gauges. Your basic dial gauges will only display your system vacuum down to 30 inches of Mercury where as a micron gauge will show you when you've hit 500 microns. When you do, valve off your gauges so that you are isolating the evaporator from the pump and the condensing unit. Let it set for half an hour making sure all of your connections are tight, even your gauge hoses, if in that time you see a loss of vacuum then vacuum it to 500 microns once more a let it set for half an hour if you see any loss of vacuum, any number higher than 500, you've got a leak to find. Removing all air and moisture from the evaporator before unvalving the condensing units pre-charge into the system Is important to the longevity of your system especially with the finicky refrigerants and hygroscopic (moisture loving) synthetic oils we are forced to use these days. Best of luck.
He's correct, you're the idiot here. Analog manifold gauges only go show to 29.9 inHG. For the correct install of the Mitsubishi Mini-split system requires vacuuming down to 300 microns per the manufacturer recommendations. Further more you are supposed to do a triple evacuation.He clearly had a vacuum pump hooked up but no digital manifold gauges or a micron gauge.
I'm the source. A NATE certified technician that works for a Mitsubishi Diamond dealer.
You just failed this one. Vacuum is measured in inches of mercury or inHG. Microns is a more accurate measure of with in inHG. Obviously I understand how vacuums work but you can keep googling scrub. 500 microns is used to make sure all moister is removed from a system. All manufacturers require a system vacuumed down to 500 microns or lower.
The lowest inHG that you can achieve is on brand new setups today is 29.916inHG or 0.00394inHA which is 100 microns.
If I has vacuuming down to 20inHG thats not near enough time to pull out all the moisture in a system. Just because you pull down to that doesn't mean all the water is out of a system. 500 microns ensures that.
I stand by my statement and the engineers will back me up.
To the folks reading back home this is the difference between a college educated tech and the "handyman". If you want your system to last get the guy that knows what he is talking about not the guy that spends 2 min vacuuming your brand new unit down.
Ill be honest I'm glad for hacks like you. Its the reason units fail so I have a job changing parts and correcting all your mistakes.
www.engineeringtoolbox.com/vacuum-converter-d_460.html
ike fun. "28 lbs. of vacuum"? Have you ever installed one of these or any H.V.A.C.R. equipment? Even if you meant 28 inches of mercury you'd still be wrong. Any system must be drawn down to at least 500 microns or you risk voiding your equipments warranty. Call a local installation company to verify.
Great Job
wonderful video
I would spray those flare nut connections with leak detector while the system is under pressure test, also the vacuum pump is more to remove moisture and air from the system not just the nitrogen.
Manbearpig Gore actually it is for the air and moisture in the lines not the nitrogen the nitrogen you just blow off into the air through your gauges it's an inert gas which is okay for the environment if you hook the vacuum pump up with the nitrogen still in lines the high pressure would blow the oil from your pump right out of the pumps exhaust port and you would have one heck of a mess on your hands .
3:45 ... There's no oral mention of the masonry foundation for the outside unit.
It just sits on a plastic pad, level ground of course.
You're very talented!!
Your channel freakin rocks, man!!!
Phili878,
I had sub-contracted 'professionals' install my unit. If I had known they were the three stooges, I would have done it myself! NOT HAPPY!
+Karl Horvat How much did it cost to have them install it??
+Karl Horvat you actually need to be a licensed installer to do it. so no you couldn't have done it yourself anyway. And its harder then its looks, they skipped a lot of steps
depends where you live if you have to be licensed.
so your telling me anywhere in Australia you can install a circuit breaker into a switch board without being a licensed electrician or fridgy? ummm alright mate
I don't live in Australia and didn't say that. Thanks for putting words in my mouth and then making fun of them.
actually this is a regular ac all around the world. some have heating elements too. completely unknown in the US where people still use window units from a century ago
What the hell are you talking about fool
Ssssst. Don’t wake them up.
Let them keep thinking they are the best and have leading technology 😴
Window units are fine in a lot of applications. Such as leases in structures that do not allow you to punch holes through walls, or have no electrical provision outdoors. There are also some areas that only need air conditioning a few weeks in the summer and never more than that.
we installed these at the okc convention center. really easy
looks like a Perfect AC for a Small personal Grow set up!!
This market is ripe for a pre-packaged self install version of this to be made available.
they're called Mr. Cool units. Totally DIY so long as you're not mechanically challenged.
@@bigheadedmedia I am talking about as pre packages as window ACs. I see some on market now but are of poor quality.
The ground connection didn't look very secure.
I saw that and yikes.... really needs a spade connector crimped on it.
As soon as I saw that I came to the comment section to see who else noticed that!
Yep, and the other wires may need to be tinned. Those looked like solid wire terminations.
am always liked this work
Great video!
I love these systems. So how did the installer know where to drill the hole on the outside of the garage to line up with the hole on the inside?
Boring bits have a pilot bit in the middle. The pilot bit guides the boring bit. The pilot bit therefore extends out more than the boring bit. The driller stops when the pilot bit makes it out to the outside but not the boring bit. Then when you go to the other side, you can see where to start the pilot bit.
Pre-drill with a really thin masonry bit to minimise the blow out and don't push too hard when you're about to push through the other side. If there is any blow out, hopefully it'll be smaller than the boring bit that you'll use later. You can see the pre-drilled hole at 1:05
Probably measured and then looked where on the brick. Bricks are symmetrical.. If it was in the corner of the brick in 4 in from bottom and 3 in from the size, figure out which brick, and start pilot hole...
Pilot hole
Thanks for the video!
A must, even for those getting the job done by professionals.
One won't need to ask the questions already answered in the video and oversee the best finishing.
It would be nice if the presenters did the same thing with a larger unit/s mounted say 10 feet above ground level for the external unit. This is in case there is a drive way outside.
This will prepare the end user with a preview of the preparedness required and expected from the mounting crew.
This could avoid tense moments and possible mishaps and damages.
Also devote some time to cover precautions, if a gas refill was required.
I can expect the best from these guys!
Thank you.
Great clip!!!
Why risk hand bending the copper piping, wouldn't it safer to use a small pipe bending tool?
Jason Rogers this pipping is very soft. You can bend it without kinking the pipe very simply.
“Pulled all of our nitrogen out with the vacuum”
Good information
Helpful thanks
A nice video. I just didn't like the electrical wire connection to the outdoor unit. Should use wire ends.
Danny F Then you are trusting that you clamped the ends on well.
So either way is really fine.
Danny F Then you are trusting that you clamped the ends on well.
So either way is really fine.
Rick Stanley I watched the video again. It is a perfect video and a perfect installation (the tube flaring, the routing etc), except the electrical connection.
In my previous reply i missed the word SLEEVE :-). You should connect the electrical cable using end sleeves.
Thanks.
Danny F I found more for you:
-Copper piping flares need to be done with an eccentric flare tool and that is not an eccentric flare tool.
-Flare nuts needs to be tightened using a torque wrench. I decided to use a Snap On electronic torque wrench with crowfoot heads. Also have a Yellow Jacket but prefer the Snap-on as it is electronic and it also vibrates and you can actually see the progress as it torques up in numbers. Use Nylog on all the nuts to avoid friction while tightening. Friction will actually ruin a flare crown, and you need to oil it to prevent it.
- Flares nuts I usually cut off and braze using nitrogen purge.
- 350psi is pretty low to test these systems with. 500 to 550 PSI is more like it.
- The contractor said that he pulled out the nitrogen with the vacuum pump. Say what???! What a sure way to kill a vacuum pump?! Hopefully he meant to say that he let it all out freely, and listened to it by ear, so he doesn't introduce any air into the pipe system. Either way, that's what the vacuum is for, so even if air goes inside it would be removed by the pump. Combine the pump with core removal tools, vacuum gauge and vacuum hoses and he is all set. Not a prime example for a contractor.
Danny F I go through that everyday at work! I have a itch for naked connections.
I pity the Fool that tries to copy the labor that this Old House does in general, especially this installation- this took 3 skilled/experienced workers, probably at least 1.5 hours. They had all the right stuff to deal with the installation. Can you imagine trying to do this without a great depth of experience in electrical/plumbing/or AC? Just the crimping tool alone would drive average Joe made.
Certainly not feasible by a non-skilled worker. So, the benefit? Purely educational unless you have ALL OF THE ABOVE.
not being an idiot helps too though