Jyers Firmware Unified Bed Leveling Ender 3 V2 - Getting Perfect First Layers From An Uneven Bed
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ค. 2022
- In this video, I'll show you how I used the Jyers Unified Bed Leveling CR-Touch 10x10 firmware to fix problems with my uneven heated bed and get perfect first layers.
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G10 Garolite for the Ender 3 V2 and others are back in stock - amzn.to/3tNSGg8
.STL files, CURA profile, and UBL start G-Code - drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
Jyers UBL 10x10 BL/CR-Touch firmware - github.com/Jyers/Marlin/relea...
How to install the Jyres firmware video - • Ender 3 V2 Assembly, U...
3D Cad Software - www.onshape.com/en/
Micro Swiss Dual Gear Extruder Wire Mount .STL - drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
The SUNLU Filament I use (link gets you 10% off everything)- www.sunlu.com/products/sunlu-...
My Ultimate Ender 3 V2 Build List -
Ender 3 V2 - amzn.to/3BF2XwF
Upgrades in order of importance:
Creality 3D Printer Accessories Kit - amzn.to/3wuaq1Q
Anti Backlash Nut with Lead Screw Support - amzn.to/3opukWR
G10 Garolite Build Surface - amzn.to/3tNSGg8
Creality CR-Touch - amzn.to/3AFBytd
Micro Swiss dual gear extruder kit - amzn.to/3quGWx6
Custom 300-degree firmware and complete install video:
Ender 3 V2 Jyers Custom Firmware - drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
How to install the firmware - • Ender 3 V2 Assembly, U...
Super Quiet Upgrades & How-to Video:
4 Dunlop Squash Balls (Need 2 Sets of 3) - amzn.to/32jPqhH
Noctua 40x10mm Fans (Need 2) - amzn.to/3JjSTxq
Noctua 80x25mm Fan - amzn.to/3Jk2u7i
How to install the quiet fan - • Ender 3 V2 Near Silent...
Dual Z Axis Kit - amzn.to/3AVYAzx
E3D V6 All-Metal Hotend - amzn.to/3zcu3wo
Adaptor E3D V6 to the Ender 3 V2 mount - victor-bared.myshopify.com/pr...
Compatible blower fans for the mount above - amzn.to/3tuKfqm
M2 X 8mm self-tapping (need 8) - amzn.to/3qulw3o
M3 X 12mm pan head (need 4) - amzn.to/3fqjP0B
M3 x 6mm hex button cap screw - amzn.to/349l6Hy
Install Video of E3D V6 - • E3D V6 All Metal Hoten...
3D Printable Files - drive.google.com/file/d/1EP_I...
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yo honestly channels like yours are always so much better than watching tutorials from more popular channels and without the smaller channels tons of people would be having problems and you explain everything so well. your doing great man
Good morning ColinLoventhal69, Thank you for your kind comments. I appreciate you very much and am glad you are finding value in these videos for your viewing time. Check out my video (linked below) on how to configure and install Miguel's Professional Firmware. It's hands down the best non-Klipper firmware, supports many different control boards and is what I'm running on one of my printers.
th-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/w-d-xo.html
Hit me up with any questions.
Enjoy your day :)
I have to tell you that this 100% solved my issues on my new printer. I was using the 5x5 ABL and got failed prints right off the bat. It was like my bed was too warped for the ABL. Using the 10x10 UBL solved it and am now getting 100% perfect prints. I've been chatting with Creality customer service for 2 months straight and we couldn't figure out why my prints were failing no matter what we tried. We even swapped out the X axis gantry...
Thank you, and hope you release more videos!
Hello MC, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. As you already learned the Creality beds aren't perfectly flat causing inconsistent prints. Another game changer for me was switching the glass build surface that came with my Ender 3 V2 for G10 Garolite (linked below). PLA, PETG, ASA, and Nylon stick to it when the build plate is hot and can be removed easily when cooled. No more scrapping, stick glue, masking tape, hair spray, or adhesion promoters of any kind is needed.
amzn.to/3V5Zod7
Best of luck with your mods!
Victor! nice man... i stopped 3D printing because i was having semi success, but man, the journey on trying to get these things to print properly. Thanks for posting. there's not much video on JyersUI for the uninitiated.
Hello Rock Lee_MC, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I banged my head same as you early on. I did a lot of reading, watched all kinds of videos, and had lots of failures. It really boils down to having the right setup, tuning, slicer settings, firmware and learning what the trouble signs are so you can service your printer before a major failure happens. I've switched to Mainsail Klipper from Jyers (which I used for many years). Klipper is a game changer in terms of print quality, speed, and totally customizable printer.cfg file, no more compiling firmware or hoping a developer adds a specific feature. Anyway, I'm sure you can tell that I think 3D printing is an awesome hobby. Let me know if you have any questions so I can do my best to help save you time and headaches.
Victor,
I came to your Chanel because of your harbor freight mode series that I truly thank you for
However, most if not all of the other videos I have absolutely no skill set for. I respect your efforts for others however
Best to you
Hi David, Thank you for your feedback.
My apologies for getting sidetracked, I completely understand, my channel seems to be over the place. The vapor blast cabinet was my first major modification project on TH-cam. It pushed me into learning about 3D printing to help me improve on its performance. Not long after purchasing my second 3D printer I noticed that these machines like the Harbor Freight vapor blast system can also be improved. 3D printers are simply amazing machines and learning to use CAD has opened up all kinds of possibilities for me. The days of having to go to Home Depot and scour through their hardware department in search of something that is close to the parts I need to help me resolve a problem are over. If you can visualize the part to solve a problem in your mind and it can be made out of plastic then CAD software plus a 3D printer will get that part into your hand.
Best of luck with your projects!
Thanks for this vid, I am really debating on finally grabbing a 3d printer so vids like this are super helpful!
Hello Uther, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. 3D printing is the most amazing hobby if you are a natural tinkerer. If you run into any questions about it just ask.
BTW, I came across the lowest price I've seen for the Ender 3 V2 in a long time with free shipping. During Black Friday it may come down to $199 but if you are in the market now $212 is close enough.
store.creality.com/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8uOWBhDXARIsAOxKJ2Euucukdk71FTb7UBj_kuN2jHlGjg6W12WBFtv_-WyE89NJcyGbthkaAr90EALw_wcB
And if you choose to get a printer, one tip I wished I got in the beginning is - don't upgrade anything until you know the basics. It took me so much longer to get everything working because I wanted to pimp/upgrade my machine right away. 😮💨
@@teodoreoakleaf2537 Hi Teodore, Thank you for commenting. I did the same thing by making a bunch of changes early on, forced learning for me. The great thing is that there is a huge community supporting the Ender 3 V2 so just about everything has been covered in great detail.
Best of luck with your mods!
Hi Victor, Once again you have raised the bar for me. Today I have been working with Miguel's firmware to understand how his basic mesh leveling is working. I was able to work through the 6x6 mesh but the 7x7, 8x8 and 9x9 did not work in the base firmware.
I wanted to look and get a feel before I install his UBL firmware. I hope there is a second mesh save location as that seems like a great feature for doing compares as well as for different temp profiles on the same machine.
Once again Victor you are being the 3D explorer and teacher that seems to have no bounds. Great Job Sir.
I have posted about the current source code compile issue and will check back for comments later.
Well lets copy down all the configuration settings for the E5 Pro and install Miguel's UBL firmware and take it for a test run. Again Well Done Victor, plz extend my greetings to Chaos.
Cheers
Doug
Hi Doug, Thank you for your encouragement. The Unified Bed Leveling is amazing. Miguel's firmware has a ton of cool features. I can't wait for him to get us a good source code that we can tweak. It's super cool that he added the new lead screw option in the current firmware so swiftly.
Enjoy your Sunday (:
@@vbared Hi Victor, Sunday has been great thank you, as I hope yours is. Lots of garden to share with the neighbors. I started the Ender 5 Pro laying the 64 squares which look like a dream come true. The interlocking layer has just started and that is a cool way to keep all the squares together. Thanks for the arrow pointer as you know the E5 Pro is reversed 180 degrees and the pointer will help.
I have converted the mesh data to match the actual bed layout and am working with the values to see what the outer edge edit ranges are. It looks like anything => 0.05 plus or minus could be tweaked a bit. For sure values in the RED => 0.08 plus or minus.
Thank you again for the UBL introduction as this really should be on everyone's printers. With a BL or CR touch it gives you all the bed and all the stick you will ever need.
I too hope for the clean source code as well still have a bunch to do. Thanks again Sir.
Doug
Hi, for meshes higher than 5x5 and a CRTouch you must disable the HS mode. Please go to the Wiki, there is a lot of useful info there.
@@MiguelRisco I appreciate your guidance. That's probably why when I try to enable tilt it would screw up my mesh.
I've got an Ender 3 V1 that I've done some upgrades on (Sprite Pro extruder, dual z axis and 4.2.7 mainboard, cr-touch). I have not been able to get the cr-touch to work properly and have been considering using the Jyers firmware, but I suspect I'll have to upgrade the display to the V2 version first.
Hello Lindel, I'm migrating all my machines over to running Mainsail Klipper. You won't need a display at all using it but could easily repurpose an old cell phone to function as the display. Check out these videos below where I make the change from Jyers to Mainsail Klipper. I can now print at 125mm/s all day long with no artifacts, stinging, oozing, or anything else once things are calibrated. The 4.2.7 board will have a few differences in the configuration but for the most part it's the same process.
th-cam.com/video/eOURi14SuO0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/KAR3ZHemMig/w-d-xo.html
Excellent detailed video. What made you choose the O.15 gauge?
Hello Jesse, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Excellent question, over the years I've learned that many printing issues are caused by two major things: wrong build plate material for the filament type and improperly set z-offset. There are others but in my experience 40% are caused by these. It starts with the build plate material. PLA, PLA-plus, ASA, PETG, and Nylon I highly recommend
amzn.to/3gDLI9b
Once you have the right build plate material next thing is to properly set the z-offset. The z-offset should be much higher than the .10 most recommend. The key is to have the nozzle deposit the molten filament onto the build plate squishing it no more that 22.5%. The idea with the 22.5% number if printing at a .2 layer height you don't want the nozzle dragging through the filament it's pushing out because it will collect on the nozzles' edges causing stringing (that can't be resolved by retraction) and blobs that will get randomly deposited throughout your print. So .2mm layer height minus 22.5% gives you .155 and thus the reason I start by to set the z-offset using a .15 feeler gauge and from there I fine tune by printing test squares with brim having a .1 gap between it and the test square. I'll print the test part over and over each time baby stepping the z-offset up or down until the brim barely holds on the square.
Let me know if you have more questions about this.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared thank you so much for the detailed explanation that REALLY explains why. I get great prints and my Z offset is -14 - I totally feel the bed leveling is the #1 “most” important step. I’m really considering starting over to dial it in and will watch you videos - SUBSCRIBED! will check it sir. I really appreciate this information.
EXCELLENT VIDEO VICTOR!! thank you very much, i appreciate this. glad im not the only one who has a ender 3 v2 lol but hey, got a question for you!
lets say I create a mesh, manually tune it so the z offset is at perfect height through out the entire mesh ok? now, where im confused is in the starting G Code (not the one you provided, that works tremendous and am so happy someone created that). Do I use an "M420 S1 ; Enable mesh stored in EEPROM" or do I do a "G29 ; Auto Bed Level" Also, G26 also is a Mesh Validating code that (from my understanding) creates a new mesh before every print, would this be a "more accurate" version of a G29/M420? i assume this is more so personal preference but just want to be clear because i feel like this firmware would prefer G26 code, but im also VERY new to printing. Thanks again Victor.
Hi JustA TH-camr, Thanks again for commenting and kind words. The start g-code that worked well for me is below. My print bed is shaped shaped like a Pringles potato chip so I had to disable the probe for bed tilt by adding the ; (aka commenting it out) in front of that command because it would screw up my mesh. The G29 command has a few different uses. These are the three that I use. With this UBL firmware I don't do the G29 ; Auto Bed Level before every print but instead activate the stored bed mesh and load it from my slot 0 before my print starts. Take a look at my complete start g-code so you can see how I use the G29 commands.
G29 ; Auto Bed Level
G29 A ; Activate bed mesh -level (BL-Touch)
G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0
Complete Start G-Code:
; Script based on an original created by tjjfvi (github.com/tjjfvi)
; An up-to-date version of the tjjfvi's original script can be found
; here: csi.t6.fyi/
; Note - This script will not work in Cura V4.2 and above!
; max_feedrate_z_override = {max_feedrate_z_override}
; retraction_amount = {retraction_amount}
; retraction_hop = {retraction_hop}
; retraction_hop_enabled = {retraction_hop_enabled}
; retraction_prime_speed = {retraction_prime_speed}
; retraction_retract_speed = {retraction_retract_speed}
; retraction_speed = {retraction_speed}
; speed_travel = {speed_travel}
; retraction_enable = {retraction_enable}
; layer_height = {layer_height}
; smooth_spiralized_contours = {smooth_spiralized_contours}
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M117 Pre-heating the extruder!
M104 S150; start warming extruder to 150
M117 Getting the bed up to temp!
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Auto bed-level GO!
G29 A ; Activate bed mesh -level (BL-Touch)
G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0
; G29 J3 ; Probe for bed tilt (remove semicolon to enable)
G1 X245 Y218.5 Z1 F5000.0
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder
M117 Getting the extruder up to temp!
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
G1 X225 Y200 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
M117 LET THE PURGE BEGIN!
G1 X225 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X222.2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X222.2 Y200 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
M117 Autobots! Roll Out!
; End of custom start GCode
@@vbared thanks again!!
@@justayoutuber9605 Anytime friend!
Cough cough no homo I love you 🤣 amazing video man keep it up !!! Thanks for the GCode I've been looking for !
Hi Abel, Thank you for commenting and kind words. I'm glad the start g-code is useful.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared and for the feeler gauge why did you due 0.15? Vs 0.20? I print with PETG so I'm unsure what feeler gauge size to use for my z .
@@JustCreateYou Hi Abel. Thank you for commenting and great question. The first layer is going to require some squish to stick to the build plate but not too much. Most is the videos that I watched early on suggested to use a piece of paper create the gap between the bed and nozzle to get good first layer adhesion. The trouble is that a random price of paper can have different thicknesses. Really thin paper can be less than 1mm while a standard sheet of white copy paper can be 1mm or more. If you use a 1mm thick piece of paper to set you z-offset. You will be too close to the bed if printing at a .2mm layer height. If using a .2mm feeler gauge there is no squish when printing at .2mm layer height. You can tell if you too close by looking at the tops of your prints. If the top layer of a finished print looks dull and not shiny like the sides do then that indicates the nozzle is ironing the tops of each layer. Another thing you're going to notice is little blobs of molten filament randomly deposited on the print, collecting on the nozzle or extra stringing as you print. The .15mm feeler gauge gets you closer to the correct nozzle to bed gap needed (if printing at .2mm layer height) to get a good first layer and avoid all the aforementioned problems.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared man you are awesome I def subscribed !! Your videos are so underrated that people are dumb to skip them thank you again 🙏🙏🙏🙏
@@JustCreateYou I appreciate you, Abel, thank you. If you run into any questions, just ask so maybe I can save you some time and frustration.
Happy modding!
Thanks for the grate videos. How do you get the bed mesh loaded with cura 5.1
Hello Dom, Thank you for commenting and kindness.
Place this after your G28 ; Home all axes
G29 A ; Activate bed mesh -level (BL-Touch)
G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0
My Complete Start G-Code:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M117 Pre-heating the extruder!
M104 S150; start warming extruder to 150
M117 Getting the bed up to temp!
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Auto bed-level GO!
G29 A ; Activate bed mesh -level (BL-Touch)
G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0
; G29 J3 ; Probe for bed tilt (remove semicolon to enable)
G1 X245 Y218.5 Z1 F5000.0
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder
M117 Getting the extruder up to temp!
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
G1 X225 Y200 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
M117 LET THE PURGE BEGIN!
G1 X225 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X222.2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X222.2 Y200 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
M117 Autobots! Roll Out!
; End of custom start GCode
I tried Jyers firmware but found my Z offset was always changing, so I looked for something else and found Professional Firmware my mriscoc (I have no affiliation with him). He updates it regularly and listens to users feedback and suggestions. My Z offset stays consistent now.
Hello Lee, Thank you for commenting. My friend Doug has only great things to say about Miguel's Professional Firmware. I've switched my two Ender 3 V2s to Mailsail Klipper and haven't looked back. It's an amazing free open source firmware that moves the G-Code processing from the printer's control board to the more powerful Raspberry Pi. After switching I was able to print a Benchy at 150 mm/s that looked the same as the one I printed with Jyers at 50mm/s. It takes a bit of time to set it all up but we'll worth the effort remove the bottleneck caused by the stock control board, get advanced features like pressure advance and resonance compensation. After upgrading to Mainsail Klipper firmware changes are as easy as editing printer.cfg file, saving, and restarting the firmware, no more compiling or flashing needed. Check out my video linked below for the complete process on my Ender 3 V2.
th-cam.com/video/eOURi14SuO0/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your mods!
As any added bonus, Professional now includes Marlin's support for linear advance (pressure advance on klipper) on legacy drivers like the ones found on the 4.2.2 board in most Ender 3 V2 printers and input shaping support (resonance compensation in Klipper). Additionally, by using custom Gcodes, you can modify the max hot end temp and a few other things instead of having to compile the firmware.
Just switched to professional firmware will never look back. It's great!
Before I saw your video, I did the same ruler straight edge test as you. My results were the same as yours diagonally but dramatically worse. When I rocked the ruler, in one direction, i got a gap at one end of aprox 2 to 3mm. I thought wow, thats a large hump in the middle. Eventually I discovered that if I took ALL of the tention off of the (upgraded yellow/orange) springs, the hump in the centre all but disappeared.
Hello Lyndon, Great job with a more in depth look at the root cause of this issue. I hadn't even thought that it could have been induced by the stiffer springs. Have you tried easing up on the spring tension? but keeping them tight enough to keep the wheels from backing out during prints? You can also use solid mounds but you need to make sure that everything else is well calibrated since you won't have any build plate give should the nozzle crash into the bed. What build plate material are you using?
@@vbared Hi Victor. I'm using the original 'glass' build plate that came with the E3V2 but the ruler tests were on the bare bed. In my case there isn't a central hump in the bed but rather a diagonal 'hump' that can be tuned in or out with the corner sprung wheels. Starting to wonder if the upgraded springs are too stiff for this application but then everyone seems to recommend them? I had originally set the bed level manually with a piece paper but then failed to reset it periodically as I wasn't sure how often it was required. Then after a while I started having print failures which led me down this path. Of course, a more flexible build plate would make the "warp' less obvious to the eye. An unclipped stiff glass plate will 'rock' just as enthusiastically as a ruler. This could all be a bit of a false trail but worth pursuing, I think. I'll et you know if I find anything significant.
@@lyndonp6296 Good morning Lyndon, How bad is the bend on the bare aluminum bed with the wheel nuts totally removed. Sometimes there is a slight hump that can be straightened out by pressing against the hump with something like a sandbag to minimize it. Are you using a bed probe like a CR-Touch?
Hi Victor; thank you for the huge effort. Unfortunately I cannot get the my E3V2 to utilize the saved mesh regardless of what starting Gcode that I use. However Miguel's works with a M420 S1 Z2 start code. I thought I'd try the Jyers option as it has more features. Some day I may figure it out.
Try this non-Klipper one that I used to use with Miguel's Professional Firmware. Copy everything below and paste into your start g-code field in CURA.
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
M117 Pre-heating the extruder!
M104 S150; start warming extruder to 150
M117 Getting the bed up to temp!
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature
G28 ; Home all axes
M117 Auto bed-level GO!
G29 A ; Activate bed mesh -level (BL-Touch)
G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0
G1 X245 Y218.5 Z1 F5000.0
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder
M117 Getting the extruder up to temp!
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
G1 X225 Y200 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to start-line position
M117 LET THE PURGE BEGIN!
G1 X225 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; draw 1st line
G1 X222.2 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; move to side a little
G1 X222.2 Y200 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; draw 2nd line
G92 E0 ; reset extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface
M117 Autobots! Roll Out!
; End of custom start GCode
Thank you Victor, I'll try and report back@@vbared
You can also use G29 for g code and it probes before each print
Hi buddy, thank you for the suggestion. G-code is amazing the way it works. I've migrated all my machines to Klipper. It's an awesome firmware that allows for all kinds of customizations and calibrations aimed at cleaner prints and speed.
also, I have the Jyers 5x5 (25 probe points) firmware, not the 10x10. noticed in the 5x5 firmware that it doesnt have storage configuration numbers. for example if i put the start g code at m420 S2 (not S1) I dont have the option to store different mesh's in this firmware. does this affect anything?
and i personally have another z axis rod/stepper on my printer. is the G Code for Auto Z axis level necessary while creating a bed mesh?
Hi JustA TH-camr, If your bed is not straight, like mine, I would either use the Jyers UBL or Klipper (which is what I'm currently using on my two Ender 3 V2s) If you have a straight bed then the 5x5 will work just fine (no need to store or load bed meshes) it will just use the data gathered from the 5x5 probe points prior to each new print.
Have a wonderful night (:
Woah! How did you get so many test points for your mesh? The most I saw was a 5×5 grid??
Hello Broderp, Thank you for commenting. The link in the video description is to the same firmware used in the video, It's a 10x10 probe mesh. I've since switched that machine to Mainsail Klipper but if I had to choose a non Klipper UBL firmware today for an Ender 3 V2 with a 4.2.2 mainboard I would use Miguel's Professional Firmware (linked below). It has a 9x9 max mesh and produced a spot on bed mesh for me without the need to manually edit anything.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Deep83hNWfwzM5nZ5vt5KzdV3VPbZGts
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thanks for the info! I checked both my V2's and one has a 4.2.7 board, so I will need to check around and possibly look into the Professional firmware. I like Jyers, but with no updates in a year, I'm thinking its time to move on.
@@broderp The Professional firmware has tramming and runs a special algorithm for hotend control instead of the standard on and off, just to name a few. It's what I'm using on my non Klipper Ender 3 Pro, I can't say enough about it.
so with this firmware? do you have to modify the g code prior to slicing? or will it map this mesh to anything loaded in the printer?
and also, does the mesh go
away after the machine is powered off ?
Hello Eric, Thank you for commenting. Once the mesh is created and tweaked it must be saved to a slot on the EEPROM. I add a couple of lines to the start G-Code to load the mesh after the G28 home all saved in the slot. Check the video description for my starts G-Code.
Best of luck with your mods!
Best of luck with your mods!
Hi. I see what the main problem you have. You just need to add some "clip" to the side of the bed.
Right now you have only 2 in each end.
With the temperature it will bow up in the middle.
I guess if you one clip on every side, you will get a bed that dont bend to heat, like it do now.
Also you should put on those clip when the bed is heated, as all will move with the heat goes up.
Hope it helps some..
Hello Damian, Thank you for commenting. More clips would influence the bed mesh shape positively for sure if the surface underneath was straight. On my Ender 3 V2 the heated aluminum bed has a high spot in the middle that runs left to right. The great thing about a UBL firmware is that it can compensate for it.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared true.
But my point is that your aluminum plate do warp due the printbed you have.
It will get worse and you will have redo the mesh time after time.
Aluminum is soft and it will bend more and more, due the heat and strain from the printbed you have.
If you put a clamp on the sides to, you will slow it down. So your mash will work longer.
It's easy physics. When you put 2 different material on top on each other and clamp them on 2 side. One material will move more and one will get deformed.
I hade the same problem in the past with my MakerBot replicator 2x. Got though 4 buildplate before i figure out the problem. The last builplate i got from makerbot they had it in a lab before they sent it to me. It was perfect straight. Well untill i minted it with the bottom plate and heated it up.
Like your plate it bowed in the middle. But it was an easy fix, when i knew the problem. I just drilled out the screw holes a bit in the steel plate and put longer screws in and put some springs in.
After that it's straight. Even now after 9-10 years the build plate is straight. 😂
P.s i just bought me a ender 3 V2 to mod and gave fun. 😆
@@DamianGto Oh, I see what you're saying it's like building a sheet of plywood. Horizontal grain layered with vertical grain to make the sandwich straighter and stronger than the individual layers. You're going to really like the Ender 3 V2. Out of the box it prints clean provided that the slicer settings are tuned. I appreciate you sharing your experience. I've been wanting to find a way to attach another aluminum plate on top of the bare heated plate.
What cooling fan setup is this? I like how it's simplistic and doesn't look too heavy
Hi Reecefpv, Like you I wasn't able to find many that didn't add a lot of weight or bulk to the x-gantry and decided to design my own super simplistic version that I improve on over time. The current version enables the printing of Nylon without the need for an enclosure. I offer it on my Shopify for $3.49 to help support my channel.
victor-bared.myshopify.com/products/minimalist-fans-bracket-and-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-4010-heatsink-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing?
Best of luck with your mods!
hey do i have to have a z offset because when i start printing the nozzle is far away from the bed but if i go to manual tunning of the mesh it goes to the right distance. the offset dosent even end up working some parts print ok some are super deep and some dont stick because they are so far away i have tried so many different software's and nothing works i dont know what to do i feel like i got a dud machine
Hi ColinLoventhal69, Are you using the stock , metal bracket that came with your CR-Touch?
@@vbared yes
@@ColinLoventhal69 What is your current z-offset?
Aye bro you dont know where i can find firmware for an ender 3v2 w a 422,bl touch, and a e3d hemera? I tried doin it on vs code but it keeps sayin failed
Hello nacho408sj, Thank you for commenting. Use Miguel's Professional Firmware instead. It's actively being improved on and has advance features like linear advance, input shaper, UBL, MPC, and a boatload of things that can be tweaked. The special configurations can be found here in the link below.
github.com/mriscoc/Special_Configurations
I am having a tough time with the manual leveling part. Ive gone through all 100 points multiple times and the distance keeps changing. For example ill make the 1x/1y point at the right spot with my feeler gauge and go down the level. Then when I go back to check the one that was at a good distance is now too close to the bed.
Hi Decoder. I decided to switch from Jyers altogether to Klipper. Do you happen to have a Raspberry Pi 3 or 3 B+? If so check out my other videos on installing Mainsail Klipper on the Ender 3 V2. Klipper allows for super fast prints because of its advanced features. I can now run regular sized prints at 175mm/s just as clean as 50mm/s. It's amazing.
@@vbared No but I am going to get one, thank you
@@decoder33 I know this is a bit late, but check your bl touch mount for damage, and check that your gantry is tight so that there isn't any slop. Otherwise might be due to sensor quality.
If you are running the bed probe at the start of each print, doesn't that override the 100pt mesh that you saved?
Hi Smedleydog1, In my case I just probe one point at the beginning to set the z home. There is an option to run bed tilt probe at the beginning to adjust the stored mesh but it messed up the mesh for me, so I don't use it.
@@vbared hey I'm having trouble getting certain corners of my bed high enough to squeeze paper and other corner to low idk how to fix or adjust this my glass bed is flat and new 2weeks
Btw ender 3 v2
Nice video by the way I have this problem that is happening to me right now so my bed leveling device doesn't want to go all the way down I used the knobs on the end to unscrew all the level nobs so that i can start even and correct it later on but the offset says that it at -10 and won't go anylower on the bed the bed can not reach the hot end at this hight is there anything you know or how to fix it
Hello Ernie,
Thank you for your kind comment.
What probe are you using?
@@vbared it actually the car touch
@@gray896 Please take some pictures or a video showing me your printer and link it.
I can't find the UBL version in the 3x3 mesh, is there a version in 3x3? Thanks
Hi Norman, I've moved to Miguel's Professional Firmware from Jyers. Miguel is extremely active in adding features to it as Marlin continues to improve. Unfortunately, Jyers hasn't had an update for several years. I'd be happy to compile the firmware for you but will need some details about your setup or you can follow my video on how to compile your own. Give me a call 478-227-3301 for a walkthrough on compiling it.
th-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/w-d-xo.html
hello i had a problem with my update its not showing the numbers when i auto level my bed
Hello Friend, sorry for the late reply. It could be an incompatible display. Creality uses 4 different sources for the display and depending on which board yours has will determine the firmware. Unfortunately Jyers hasn't posted and update for several years so unless you have one of the original Ender 3 V2s that came with a DWIN display you're out of luck. A much better firmware that is constantly being developed is Miguel's Professional Firmware.
The first video is how to determine which display you have and the second is how to customize the firmware for your machine. Don't worry about the printer I use in the video it's using a 4.2.7 board which is the 512kb version of the stock Ender 3 V2 4.2.2 board so make sure to select the proper one from the configurator menu.
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/wiki/How-to-update-the-display
th-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your mods!
Hi Victor … I’ve been following your method and used on my printer … but I’ve been having problems … after I create a new mesh and correct the z offset and ran a test print … it seems that the changes that I made manually on the mesh are not saved … because the print showed the same problems that I had before the manual calibration… I tried to clear the mesh and start a new one … but that didn’t help … I also did the manual calibration on all the 100 points … but still seems that the changes aren’t saved … also at some points of the mesh the test print shows that the nozzle y too close to the bed but when I run the manual calibration on that point the nozzle is too high so I can’t find any sense on that because the print is showing different results … hope you can help me thanks 😊
Hi Darwin, Thank you for commenting. When you complete your fine tuning are you saving the mesh? Another thing is that you need to modify your g-code to load your saved mesh prior to printing. I've included my start g-code for you to try, just make sure that the mesh slot matches the g-code. If you save it in slot 1 then slot one should be what the g-code is loading when it runs the load bed mesh. Make sure to enable "Go to Mesh Z Value" which should bring the head down so you can adjust it.
Let me know if this fixes your issue.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=199u7szF95cEaX82Rhq0-CMQm-HuJwQao
@@vbared I’m saving the mesh … and I’m using your start gcode … I followed all your steps … but same problem every time
@@900creed Hi Darwin, give me a call tomorrow +1 478-227-3301 if you can and I'll conference in Doug. Maybe between the three of us we can figure it out.
@@900creed Doug and I were discussing your issue and he asked "What firmware did you previously have?"
@@vbared I updated the creality firmware after I got the cr touch kit so I used the 2.0.8 cr touch non adapter firmware … then I changed to jyers using your video
Would it be different for every ender 3v2 or should I use a .15 feeler as well?
Hello Trevor, Thank you for commenting. I've learned that using the paper method puts the nozzle too close to the build plate because a standard A4 sheet of paper is .10 in thickness. Starting with a .15 feeler gauge puts you very close the perfect nozzle height. Once you set the z-offset using the .15 feeler gauge I recommend printing a 2 layer high 20x20 square using a brim with a .1mm gap between the brim and part. Make sure that you set the initial layer, prime, skirt/brim flows in CURA to 120% (this is important otherwise you may not get good enough adhesion to the build plate). If the brim on the completed print is difficult to remove then you need to raise the z-offset a bit and run another test print. Continue this process until the brim barely holds on to the part and can be removed easily.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared I really do appreciate your content and reply! I am ordering a feeler to get everything set!
I hope you have a blessed one;
I agree with the paper method especially for noobs out there
@@CloudyCreamer Thank you Trevor. Many blessings to you as well.
Is red/negative low or high. Like does red mean it's to close or to high compared to the bed?
Hello Keanu Deleon, Thank you for commenting. Yes red is low (negative number), green is high (positive number) and black is zero. Jyers also uses shades of those colors as well to visually indicate how much negative or positive.
@@vbared thanks.
I enjoyed your video and learned a lot from it. I'm not clear on how you determine what thickness guage is used to make the manual adjustments and whether all points need to be adjusted, can you explain or refer me to a tutorial which explains it? Thanks
Hello Norman, Thank you for the kind comment. Are you using a CR-Touch or BL-Touch? Please also tell me what build surface you are printing on and what type of filament.
Hi victor and thanks for the reply.I have the cr touch using original ender glass plate with inland filament.
@@normanziegelmeyer7693 Good morning Norman, Your Ender 3 V2 has one of four models of displays. Linked below is a way to tell which type you have by comparing it to the pictures. You'll need to take off the back cover of the display by removing the four Allen screws and unsnapping the plastic cover. Let me know which display you have any I'll compile the firmware for you.
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets
I have Dwin
I have Dwin, also what is MRISCO firmware and does UBL come in 3x3 matrix? Thanks
When i make a new mesh my CR touch just doesnt go down. It just stays there floating and says that it finished the leveling
Hello, I would use Miguel's Professional Firmware as a non-Klipper alternative right now. The Jyers firmware hasn't had any development for the last 3 years and many new features have been added to Marlin.
Please follow this first link to determine which display control board your printer has. Then watch the video l made on customizing the firmware for your needs. Just ask if you run into any problems.
github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets
th-cam.com/video/2NqHNYtyEa4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=NVCYDkKg4XmQLmJd
@vbared thank you I will give it a try. Though I do think that it is a issue with my cr touch. The cable is most likely damaged. I looked through a few videos and that was what was happening with others. I will give this a try tho before I order a new cable
@@nadim_873 Yeah, that's a good place to start and something I should have thought about. It doesn't take to many bends for those connectors to get damaged. Once you get that sorted out switch to Miguel's Professional Firmware, it's packed with all the latest Marlin goodies and get regular updates.
I'm running the same firmware on an Ender 3 except mine has the touch screen display. Also, my firmware does not have the two mesh slot save feature. When I first installed the firmware I thought the bed leveling would by automatic once the Z home height was set. Apparently the Jyers firmware does not have auto bed leveling, it just allows one to manually set nozzle height at multiple points of the bed and save those settings. But, when I pick a probe point in the mesh, the nozzle does not move to that point and go down to the set height. It does allow you to change the nozzle height at that particular point but you have no idea which way to move the nozzle and how far because the nozzle stays at it's home position. This makes trying to level the bed impossible. If for some reason the bed level changes at one or more points, the firmware will do nothing to compensate based on your initial Z height adjustment. Totally useless in my opinion. It's a shame that this firmware is no longer being supported nor worked on. There are several bugs in it that drive me crazy but has many great features that the original Creality firmware does not have. Personally, I'll be searching for something better.
Hello Waltkat, Thank you for commenting. Yeah, I hear you it was good in its time. I've switched 5 of six printers to Mainsail Klipper and the last one is running Miguel's Professional Firmware. I had a lot of trouble early on with automatic bed meshes not being accurate and needing manual adjustments to correct them. The only way to get accurate meshes is to minimize the z-offset value from high numbers like -1.76 to something super small like -0.020. The closer you are to a 0.000 z-offset the more accurate the bed mesh will be. There are two ways to accomplish this one is to create a probe mounts in CAD that move the probe body further and further away from the build plate so that it triggers when the nozzle is very close to the build plate. The second way is to dial in the probe distance using an adjustable mount (way easier that having to print many different height probe mounts. The idea is to get the nozzle to the same distance from the bed than the layer height you will be printing. The adjustable probe mount that fits the Ender 3 V2, Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, and others that can accept the Ender 3 V2 X gantry bracket. Amazon link and how to install video below. Once you're dialed in just create your bed mesh using Miguel's Professional Firmware, Klipper or any other UBL firmware save it to the EEPROM and recall it after your G28 Home All entry in your slicer's Start G-Code similar to mine below:
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 A ; Activate bed mesh -level (BL-Touch)
G29 L0 ; Load mesh from slot 0
Precision Adjustable Probe Bracket - amzn.to/45mgQhw
How to install and set the probe mount - th-cam.com/video/appvG-7PG8E/w-d-xo.html
Whats the difference between 3x3 5x5 & 10x10 on the files
Hello JusThyTipp, Thank you for commenting, the difference is the amount of probe points. 3x3 is 9 total and 10x10 is 100 points probed. The best firmware currently for the Ender 3 V2 is: github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/tag/20230522
Hi Victor, I added the UBL file. But now my ender will not home or move in any direction. Any idea to what would causes this?
Hello Sarge, Thank you for commenting. Please give me more details on your setup so I can help you trouble shoot. Have you changed the main board to a 4.2.7 or are you using the stock 4.2.2 main board? Did you download the flash file from my video description or somewhere else?
@@vbared 4.2.7 board. I re-flashed with the creatility firmware. Now I have direction. But no fine tuning. Thanks for the quick reply.
@@sargedutch1085 Hi Sarge, Some pins of the 4.2.7 are different from the stock 4.2.2 so to get the UBL working download the version for the 4.2.7 linked below.
Let me know if you have any more trouble so I can help you.
github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases/tag/v2.0.1
@@vbared this worked. Thanks.
@@sargedutch1085 Awesome job!
Hi, I am confused on the G code part. You didnt really address it. How do I install this?
Like what splicer are you using? I was using cura 5.1 but the text file in your google drive says to not use anything past cura 4.2
Hi Decoder, I'm using CURA 4.13.1. Some of my Klipper stuff doesn't work with 5.0 and up. BTW I switched from Jyers on both of my machines to Mainsail Klipper. I can print at 115mm/s all day now, prints are cleaner too, Check out my video below on it.
th-cam.com/video/eOURi14SuO0/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your mods!
Hi Decoder, The link below is what's in the video description and contains my start g-codes that you can try. This is what I used for my machines that were running Jyers UBL firmware.
You get to it in CURA go to settings, printer, then manage printers. Your active printer should already be highlighted in blue, click the machine settings button on the right. A screen will open and the start g-code is on the left bottom. Highlight everything in the start g-code box, copy and save it to a notepad file so you can revert back if you choose not to use my start g-code. Open the "UBL No-ooz with wipe Start G-Code.txt" from the download link below, highlight and copy all the info that is in there, go back to CURA and delete everything in the start g-code box and paste the data from the previous step in there, close the box and you're done. load up a test print slice it and print it to test the new start g-code. It's what I currently use just tweaked a bit to work with Klipper.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=197hPS1mE-LInJDeangeUTOvdgAE-nKLr
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thank you very much! For mainsail killper you need to install a raspberry pi right? I cant afford that right now but I can get one soon. Do you think running jyers in the mean time is worth it?
Hi Victor, your G-Code TXT is empty, would love to see your starting G-Code
Hi Viktor, Thank you for commenting and letting me know about the missing info. I just added the start g-code data to the zipfile. If you try the link again it should be there.
Best of luck with your mods!
Thanks a lot! Your channel is awesome. I love your Minimal cooler design, bought it the other day, just waiting for the other parts to arrive 😁
@@viktorp3759 Hi Viktor, Thank you for supporting my work and kindness. The compact fan bracket and ducts work great. Best of all is that it's quiet compared to most things I've tried.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thanks, just installed the fan bracket on friday, printed in in PLA and its holding up, very nice design
@@viktorp3759 Hi Victor, Great job getting all the parts printed and installed. I highly recommend that you print up backups in PETG. PLA will not hold up long term.
Best of luck with your mods!
What mods did u do too your hotend
Hello Charles, Thank you for commenting. Below are a couple of video I made on the topic you are asking about. The first one addresses the bowden to nozzle seal. The second is all about installing an all metal heat break but there is one very important piece of information regarding the addition of thermal paste to the heat break sleeve that slides into the heatsink. Make sure to apply the thermal paste in the same way shown in the second video if you are planning to just stick with the bowden tube lined sleeve.
Bowden fix - th-cam.com/video/AEdca_-Nqys/w-d-xo.html
All metal hotend - th-cam.com/video/3v_cEldgT4U/w-d-xo.html
Budget bi-metal heat break that works great for me - amzn.to/3J9daId
You lost me saying the green squares are on the test print on the left only after flipping it over. That cannot be correct.
Hello Douglas, Thank you for commenting. The amount of extruded filament line definition or lack of it by looking at the side of the material that was adjacent to the surface is was deposited on is what will tell you is you're high or low at that co-ordinate. I would have just flipped each square in place but because there was so many, I had to apply tape to all of them so they wouldn't get mixed up during removal. In the downloadable file I added thin bridges to hold them all together as well as an arrow that points to the front of the printer. It's tricky to keep track of what square you're looking at when flipped over. What I do in my mind and should have mentioned during the video is that once flipped over the right side squares were printed over the left side of the build plate.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared thank you. I understand now
Been running jyers ABL for a while (back when he used to keep up with it) I have always done a manual tune using tracing paper for the nozzle scratch test (just like for z offset) I always thought you should have your bed and nozzle heated up to printing temp (without filament) to allow for the expansion the nozzle will have. I noticed you didnt heat up your nozzle. How come?
I think the auto tilt fails due to it being a 3 point probe. I'm curious if you can do a 4 point probe with G29 J4 (Since we have 4 points we can adjust the bed from).
Hello Barrett, Thank you for commenting. Great catch on noticing that. I used to do it that way as well and one day decided to create a 40 mm x 40 mm test square that is 2 layers tall, enable brim with a .1mm gap, slice it, print, and make z-offset adjustments until the .1mm gap was just barely visible and the brim was easy to remove. Since using this method along with printing on G10 Garolite all my first layer and adhesion issues are gone. I just start a print and walk away. No more stick glue, hairspray, other adhesion promoters, masking tape, or anything else to get the prints to stick. Removing the prints is also a piece of cake. Once the bed cools the parts release easily. The G10 Garolite has been a real game changer for me. The G10 Garolite that is precision cut for the Ender 3s and others that use a 235x235mm bed is linked below.
amzn.to/3hG1Nfh
I've since switched my Enders from Jyers to Mainsail Klipper and am amazed at being able to print at 125mm/s without any quality difference. The input shaping, pressure advance and all the different bed mesh options available with Klipper compensates for my Pringles potato chip shaped aluminum heated bed. Before getting into UBL and Klipper printing anything that used up the whole bed wasn't possible for one of my machines.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Im having zero adhesion issues.. I use magigoo (dont really need to.. just insurance...) So dont really mind it. mainly use pla, havent dipped into petg in the 2 years I've been printing. One issue I cant figure out is I can get a perfect first layer, however 2nd - end of bottom layers I get some scarring. I am 99% sure its not mesh offset value (I manual tune every mesh I make) so I am thinking possibly going to klipper will fix it due to pressure advance... There lies one small problem.... I thought that the 2208 drivers cannot do pressure advance/linear advance? The 2209 however can... Or is that only for marlin's linear advance?
@@barrettm.9918 Hi Barrett, I believe so because I have 2208s on my two Ender 3 V2s both running Mainsail Klipper using pressure advance.